CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS Winter Trends Guide 2011

No 291 / Winter - Trends Guide 2011

Editor’s Letter06 The Top Ten Trends for 2011

Cover Feature08 An Interview with Salvador J. Assael

Profiles10 Opera Omnia – The Opus Continues12 Mathon Paris – The Essence of Creativity14 Rodney Rayner – Edgy and Exclusive16 bastian inverun – Natural with a Contemporary Edge18 Matthias & Claire by Orexport20 Jörg Heinz – Tying Up the Loose Ends22 Skagen Denmark – Sophisticated Danish Design56 The Fifth Season – The Echo of a New Dimension57 Zoltan David – From the Knight’s Dream to Knight Dreams™58 Diarough – At the Cutting Edge60 Yael Sonia – A Designer in Perpetual Motion62 Swarovski Gems™ Presents Gem Visions 201163 Vajra’s Gina Collection – Eternal Blossoms

Top Ten Trends25 Colour; Nature26 Hoops & Dangles; Cuffs & Bangles28 Roughing It; Eco-Jewellery30 Airy & Open; Silver & Titanium32 So Personal; Organic

Marketplace66 Vicenzaoro Choice Ended on a Note of Cautious Optimism70 HK Jewellery & Gem Fair Breaks Its Own Records76 Celebrating Style, Colour, and Diversity at Brazil’s Feninjer

80 Index

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On the CoverGolden pearl, diamond, and gemstone jewellery by Assael International.(Photo: ©Padulo 2010, Alaia Jacket, Ikram Chicago, photographed by Skrebneski).

Cover Feature on page 8.

www.assael.com

Top Ten Trends - Tracy Reese

Citrus Orange - Mi Piaci

Trends & Colours34 Radiant Red36 Shades of Green38 Citrus Orange40 True Blue42 Zesty Lemon44 Cool Clear Aqua46 Pink Passions48 Down to Earth50 Purple Pleasures52 Opposites Attract54 Golden Opportunities

The Yearbook No 291 / Winter - Trends Guide 2011 is brought to you by CIJ International Jewellery TRENDS & COLOURS / Europa Star. Editor Contributors Advertising contacts Alexandra Montandon [email protected] T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie Glattfelder

[email protected] T. +41 22 307 7832 /Italy - Alessandra Arati [email protected] T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena [email protected] T. +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong [email protected] Graphic Design Managing Director

On the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com - Published by Europastar HBM SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: [email protected]

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ International Jewellery.

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06

The Top Ten Trends for 2011

Cynthia UnninayarEditor-in-Chief / CIJ Trends & Colours

Cynthia

It is time again to look at the upcoming jewellery trends for 2011. Having last year re-introduced our popular trends tracker guide, Trends & Colours—first created in 2000—we again feature the top ten trends for 2011. Since jewellery and fashion are inextricably linked, and since colour is the major trend in both jewellery and fashion, we are also featuring Pantone’s top ten colour directions for Spring/Summer 2011, along with comments by ten couturiers on their must-have fashion outfit. Speaking of colour and fashion, the S/S 2011 runways were awash in brilliant colours, with bold and sometimes clashing collections, that

proved to be not only fashionable but also quite wearable. While one of the strongest trends was orange coral, many designers mixed and (un)matched all sorts of vivid hues in a range of pattern combinations. Many of the global runway collections also included a variety of jewellery, from statement making dangles and bangles to the perennially popular hoop earring and eye-catching necklaces.Jewellery designs are generally very personal to their creators, yet trends arise when they are influenced by economic, social, and cultural factors. Some changes in trends are gradual. Some are more dramatic. Starting on page 25, we present the top ten trends in designer jewellery that we foresee as the most popular in 2011. These are: colour, in all hues and shades, in fashion, home décor and jewellery; nature-inspired themes, particular-

ly flowers and butterflies, frogs and fish, snakes and scorpions, as well as jungle motifs, in both realistic and highly fanciful designs; hoops and dangles, in metal alone or set with gems and diamonds, often stylized in form; cuffs and bangles, wide cuffs and stacked or single bangles in a variety of designs; eco-friendly jewellery, using recycled metals and ethically mined gemstones, now a reflection of the growing awareness by consumers and industry (witness the activities of the Responsible Jewellery Council in terms of mine to market certification or the creation of ICA’s Ethical Mining and Fair Trade committee) to create products that reflect protection and responsibility in both environmental and human terms; rough and ready, a return to the natural look with sliced, diced, and rough diamonds and gems in sophisticated and elegant designs; silver and titanium, economy oblige, with new and interesting creations in lesser costly metals in all colours and shapes; airy and open, creative ways to get a luxurious look for less; organic, harking back to the natural look with its freeform and textured styling; personalized pieces, using the perennially popular charms and the more recent individual beads to create jewellery tailored to specific tastes or lifestyles. Jewellery designs evoking the colours of the rainbow begin on page 34, starting with red and ending with the non-colours of black and white. And, because we have chosen examples from a wide variety of jewellery designers—some up-and-coming, some well-established—we have also

selected a wide variety of fashion designers, some well-known, some lesser known, but all of whom are talented in their chosen fields. As a special feature on the colour gold, we take a look, not at the metal itself, but at the golden pearl, one of the hottest elements in fine jewellery today. Adopted by talented designers worldwide, this luxurious South Sea pearl is truly worth its weight in gold, and is just one of the many types of jewellery featured here that will be on retailers’ shelves in 2011.

From all the team at CIJ Trends & Colours, have a wonderful and prosperous year.

E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R

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. luster for life .

When we think of pioneers in the jewellery industry, one name certainly comes to mind—that of Salvador J. Assael. Known in the trade as “The Pearl King,”

his achievements are many, including introducing the Tahitian pearl to the world in 1976. Another first, an Assael piece broke the world record

in October 1992 for the highest price paid for a pearl necklace at Sotheby’s. The recipient of numerous awards, he is a founding member of the South Sea Pearl Consortium and past president of

the Tahitian Pearl Association. In recognition for his contributions, the Tahitian government awarded Assael the title of “Chevalier dans l’ordre

de Tahiti Nui” in 1998, the only American to be so honoured. Assael was also instrumental in getting certification of the Tahitian Natural Colour

Cultured Pearl by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). GIA also honoured him by naming the grand atrium in its Carlsbad headquarters “The Salvador J. Assael Grand Atrium.” Madeleine Stancescu, Director of Advertising, Marketing, and Sales for

Assael International and a person involved with many other aspects of the business, including providing input on designs aimed at the youth market,

interviewed “The Pearl King” for CIJ Trends & Colours. In this rare interview, Salvador J. Assael talks about his passion for pearls, how he grew his family business into a successful international brand, and what he feels are the next trends in pearl jewellery.

Madeleine Stancescu: What took you into the world of pearls in the first place?Salvador J. Assael: My family. Assael International is a family business that was

established in Europe in the early 1900s. My ancestors were noted merchants in the diamond, precious stone, and pearl trades. My own passion for pearls and precious gems comes from having grown up in Italy, where I studied ancient history, archaeology,

mineralogy, and gemmology. My father, James Assael, was an Italian pearl dealer. During World War II, the American army was in Europe and needed waterproof watches. Through his contacts in

Switzerland, my father was able to supply this demand. But after the war, he was left with thousands of these Swiss watches. He

c o v e r s t o r y

An IntervIew wIth SAlvAdor J. ASSAel

08

Madeleine stancescu

salvador J. Assael

realized there was a demand for them in Japan, but the Japanese had no money. Being very entrepreneurial, my father bartered the watches in exchange for pearls. I joined him and thus began my pearl career. After our move to the USA, we specialized in South Sea pearls.

MS: How did you get involved with the Tahitian pearl?SJA: This adventure started in 1973 when I met a Frenchman in Saint-Tropez, who told me about an atoll he purchased in French Polynesia and how the turquoise waters of that region produced black-lipped oysters called Pinctada margaritifera, which produced black pearls. He persuaded me to go into business with him, and that is how it began. The first year’s pearls were not so good, but the following year, they were better.

MS: Was it difficult to get the black Tahitian pearl accepted?SJA: Their colour was certainly different than the traditional white pearls, but they were so beautiful that I knew they would catch on. I took several strands to my friend Harry Winston to see if he would be interested. He bought them all. Quite the visionary, he made magnificent jewellery from them and put them in his Fifth Avenue window with an outrageous price tag. And, he sold them all! I then began to advertise these dark pearls in glossy publications and soon, throughout Manhattan, Tahitian pearls adorned the necks of the city’s most affluent divas. As you may remember, Elizabeth Taylor’s perfume, “Black Pearl,” originated with the popularity of the black Tahitian pearls.

MS: Assael is so well known for its strands of South Sea white pearls…SJA: Yes, but we specialize in all types and colours, including the golden pearl, whose popularity is increasing. Assael International has always been one of the biggest buyers at the pearl auctions, letting us accumulate a vast inventory of the very finest qualities. In the 1960s, the highest price paid for a cultured pearl necklace was about $50,000. Thanks in large part to the quality we carry and our designs, that price rose to $2,300,000 in the early 1990s.

MS: What will be the next pearl trend?SJA: Trends have changed greatly. From the basic white strands, all sorts of pearls are prized now. Over the last decade, there has also been a resurgence in baroque pearls in creative designs. As our brand approached the new millennium, we began adding new collections that incorporate diamonds, moonstones, denim, wood, rubber, and other gemstones to give a more contemporary look to the classic pearl. Nadya Esenyan, who has directed the development of Assael International’s jewellery line for over 20 years, has created elegant collections that pair various colours of tourmalines with pearls. And you, Madeleine, provide valued insight for modern designs aimed at a younger demographic. In terms of future trends, pearls will be used in all sorts of combinations. The golden pearl will also continue to gain in popularity as more and more designers around the world use this precious golden gem in their creations.

MS: What do you see as the future of your company after you retire?SJA: Assael International will continue to be the world leader in South Sea and Tahitian Natural Coloured Cultured Pearls. I have a young family and a dedicated and loyal staff. Most have been with me for more than 20 years—some for 60 years. They will all assure that the Assael legacy will continue for many more generations to come!

09

Under the baton of marketing maestro Massimo Zerbini, Opera Omnia has grown from an idea to a major jewellery brand in less than a year. Launched at the Couture show last June, Opera Omnia continues to create jewellery that sings with a pureness of design and an expertise of craftsmanship. “We have assembled the finest artisans and designers

to create a remarkable team that is focused on building a new, strong, and distinctive brand identity through a style and set of values that reflect the post-modern world of ultimate luxury. By incorporating precious gems and only the highest quality materials, Opera Omnia is achieving a prestigious status for its superior design, stone quality, and superb manufacturing,” explains Zerbini.The latest creations in the Saba collection continue the use of colour and the geometric forms of its earlier lines, adding a very contemporary flair in terms of design and vibrancy. Lively chromatic combinations of pink gold, jet, multi-colour sapphires, and leather make these pieces unique. As for the wearer of these original pieces, Zerbini describes the Opera Omnia woman as “an individual who is self-confident, dynamic, cosmopolitan, and very often a self-purchaser. She is proud to reveal the different aspects of her personality.”In terms of distribution, Opera Omnia is working only with select retailers. The brand’s strategy and co-marketing activities for 2011 are focused

on three pillars: working closely with retailers to support them throughout their business development; having a consistent communication plan to help increase awareness and visibility of the Opera Omnia brand with retailers’ final customers; organizing local events to enhance the importance of the brand, its brand image, and identity at the point

of the sale.Among the local events are evenings such as the European preview held

recently during a fashion night at the prominent Studio Vigato Contemporary Art Gallery in Alessandria, Italy or a recent presentation at a high-end yacht show

in Fort Lauderdale in Florida. Both occasions attracted a large number of current and future clients, and are among many others that are planned for 2011.

In terms of major trade events this year, Opera Omnia will be present at BaselWorld in March at the prestigious Hall 2.2, Booth E81, as well as at Couture in Las Vegas in May. Rarely does the jewellery industry experience such an amazing

new offering. Opera Omnia is truly an Italian masterpiece. (www.operajewels.com)

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Created only a few short months ago, Opera Omnia has risen onto the international stage of fine jewellery at an allegro pace.

By Diana S. Zimmerman

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The spirit of Mathon can be characterized by a genuine commitment to creative design. Beginning in 1931, founder Roger Mathon was a total artist who saw inspiration as fundamental to his work, and even to his life, and this carries on today with the third and fourth generations, with Frédéric, his daughter Aude, and Pascal Mathon, who combines creative computer design with traditional techniques. Perhaps this is why the Paris brand is one of the rare jewellers today to maintain a full design studio.Inspiration for the brand’s exquisite creations comes from many sources, with Nature one of the most important. Season after season, year after year, the handcrafted jewels that leave the Mathon ateliers reflect a discerning observation of the natural

world in its glorious forms, colour, and poetry.This year, in homage to the French impressionist Claude Monet—himself

greatly inspired by Nature—Mathon is revisiting its Nymphéas collection, first presented in 2005. With new colours and a more contemporary design, Nymphéas 2011 emphasizes the volumes and softens the forms to become more organic, more feminine.

The Lumière ring, the newest member of Nymphéas offers a purity of form and play of colours centring around orange and yellow. Its

spessartite garnets, yellow sapphires, and diamonds evoke a field of poppies in one of Monet’s paintings. The white diamond version of

Lumière evokes a sparkle reflected off a pool of water. Another relaunch this year is the brand’s celebrated Quesaco ring, with its precious colourful gemstones.New for 2011 is the Arôme ring, with its purity of white gold and diamonds. It evokes the flowers in a bride’s bouquet and their beautiful fragrance. Another new creation for 2011 is the stylized Battement d’Ailes collection. Available in rings, pendants, and earrings, it embodies the rare Central American “Glasswing” butterfly with transparent wings. As part of the creative process, a sketch of the pendant is shown here.A very special collection—to be launched at BaselWorld 2011—remains under wraps

for now. But we can say that these exclusive high jewellery pieces, entitled Fleur de Tiaré, will be a lovely surprise for all those who appreciate luxurious jewels.

Mathon’s subtle alliance of contemporary, classic, and original styling combined with high quality materials has earned it the esteemed “Joaillerie de France” hallmark, certifying that the jewellery has been designed and produced in France in compliance with legal, social, ethical, and environmental standards.

The brand is also a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council.With the new 2011 collections, Mathon Paris again demonstrates that it is the essence of creativity. (www.Mathon-Paris.com)

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Creativity lies deep within the soul of Mathon Paris. It is an unstoppable force—drawing inspiration from a myriad of sources—a driving force that takes on a life of its own when translated into the world of fine jewellery.

By Diana S. Zimmerman

P r o f i l e

Mathon Paris – the essence of creativity

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“It is no secret,” Rayner says frankly. “The rising prices of gold have meant that retailers and consumers are

looking for fabulous jewellery but at better price points. One way to meet this demand is to

innovate with other materials.”And innovate he has. With his new Istanbul and Barcelona collections, Rayner has added silver to his creative line-up. But not just any silver. These new pieces are made in ruthenium-plated silver. “Ruthenium is one of the platinum group metals,” Rayner explains. “It is also the hardest wearing black/grey plating, and is very resistant to scratching.” Very contemporary, the greyish, gunmetal colour

of the ruthenium offers an edgy and exclusive look, especially when contrasted with diamonds and

coloured stones. Launched at BaselWorld 2010, the two collections

were an immediate hit. “The reaction to our new ruthenium silver line in Basel was fantastic,” he smiles.

“All our customers bought into the collections and were excited about the striking designs at more accessible price points.” Rayner is quick to point out, however, that his new silver line is not to be confused with inexpensive mass-produced silver jewellery. “We are selling a finely crafted piece

of jewellery set with gemstones. The pieces are made by the same skilled craftsmen, who use all the same components and set the fine stones by hand, just as in the 18K gold versions.” But, by using ruthenium silver, he can achieve a retail price 50 percent less than the same item in gold.What’s on the horizon for 2011? “At the next

BaselWorld, we will launch an extension of the Istanbul and Barcelona collections, in both gold and ruthenium silver versions.” The designer also indicated that he is looking at using ebony combined with 18K gold as well as mammoth bone in new lines. Clearly, Rodney Rayner will continue to innovate with original, edgy, and exclusive lines. (www.rodneyrayner.com)

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For the past 27 years, Rodney Rayner has reigned supreme in the world of creative craftsmanship using gold and coloured gemstones. Not one to rest on his laurels, however, he continues to innovate, and today he is venturing into a new dimension in fine jewellery.

By Cynthia Unninayar

P r o f i l e

Rodney RayneR – edgy and exclusive

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bastian inverun – natural with a Contemporary edge

bastian inverun is not, however, only appreciated in Germany. With an impressive growth rate of 30 percent in 2010, fuelled in large part by its rapid growth in the

United States, Russia, Canada, New Zealand, and Australia, it is clear that bastian has attracted a global audience. Created in 1974 and specializing in sterling silver jewellery, the brand was the first to launch silver jewellery set with diamonds, more than 20 years ago, resulting in a very successful line that continues to this day.From the very outset, bastian inverun has set a simple guideline that it follows faithfully: Designs that are in line with the latest trends but that are also made for eternity. The brand’s 2011 collections offer a fashionable assortment of jewellery using only natural materials, including sterling silver, gold, genuine gemstones such as citrine, garnet, carnelian, chalcedony, and selected pearls. They stand out by virtue of the

brand’s innovative design work that skilfully combines classical forms with cutting-sedge modernity. And, best of all, the collections come with an affordable price tag.Not resting on its laurels, however, bastian is launching a second brand in 2011. “We have acquired the global jewellery license for the Scandinavian fashion brand, Marc

O`Polo,” says Axel Niesing, managing director of bastian. “This rapidly growing brand was founded in Sweden in 1967 and has remained true to the

vision of using natural products with an ever fresh contemporary edge. Marc O`Polo’s definition of style is that of a certain inner confidence—an ability to enjoy the simple beauty of life in full—Nordic luxury.”With not only its own brand label but now also Marc O`Polo, bastian will continue to offer an attractive price/value ratio, strong marketing support for retailers, and a comprehensive range of far more than 100 new designs every season. It will also continue to meet the market needs for today’s price-conscious consumer who wants

jewellery that is natural with a contemporary edge. (www.bastian-inverun.com)

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The accolades keep on coming for bastian inverun. In 2010, for the fourth straight year, the German brand was named “Silver Jewellery Brand of the Year” by retailers in its home country.

By Rayan Innue

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Gianfranco Cilluffo, president of Orexport, founded the company in 1969 to design and manufacture fine jewellery. Throughout the years, Gianfranco’s flair for style, his creativity and his passion for jewellery brought the company into worldwide recognition. Today, his son, Mattia, and his daughter, Chiara, are also closely involved with this passion for creative design.

Chiara is well placed to help grow the company, having graduated and specialized in art history and design, while Mattia has both a degree in gemmology and business administration. Both are a full part of the creative and administrative teams of the company and both love what they do. And, both work with the international network of loyal customers for feedback and for service.

This family tradition has focused, for over 40 years, on its strongly contemporary and highly appreciated brand, Matthia’s & Claire. Since

the beginning, their manufacturing has always been synonymous with creativity and high quality. Old traditions combine with modern

savoir-faire to create unique jewellery for the woman of today.

Among the brand’s exquisite collections, platinum plays a major role. This precious, rare, and eternal metal takes what is merely ordinary and transforms it into something extraordinary, something perfect. It is unique, discreet, and distinctive, just like the person who wears it. Crafted by Orexport’s skilled team of craftsmen, platinum is the metal of choice for bridal and fashion jewellery of the highest standard, quality, and creativity. Shown here are some of Matthia’s & Claire’s enduring and endearing designs in platinum jewellery.

Just like platinum is eternal, so is Orexport, as it continues to be “one company, one family, one brand.” (www.orexport.com)

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“One company, one family, one brand.” Since 1969, turning gold and platinum into love.

By T. R. Flora

MATTHIA’S & CLAIRE by ORExpORT

P r o f i l e

[email protected] - www.orexport.com

The Achilles heel of fine jewellery has always been how to fasten the ends of a necklace. Reaching behind to open a clasp at the nape of the neck was awkward for its wearer, yet no one seemed to come up with the perfect solution. That is until 1974, when—after much contemplation and experimentation—a young German goldsmith came up with a revolutionary

idea. What if the clasp were not at the back but at the front of the necklace, at its centre? What if the function of the clasp were hidden inside a beautiful piece of jewellery? What if the design could be changed in a split-second?The ingenuity of Jörg Heinz’s clasp began with its function. The necklace’s wearer can open and close it simply by pressing and twisting the fastener. Its precise mechanism makes it easy to open, yet maintains the clasp securely closed. This invention was more than just a technical and design innovation. It was one of the world’s first variable systems for modern jewellery. These interchangeable pieces became design elements in their own right.Whether they feature pearls, gold, platinum, gemstones, or steel, Jörg Heinz’s clasps ensure that chains are easy to open, close, and transform. Each wearer can adapt her jewellery to match her outfit: sleekly simple for everyday wear, tastefully elegant for the business look, or opulently lavish for festive occasions.Since 1974, the family brand has steadily refined its capabilities, using a combination of cutting-edge technology and traditional savoir-faire to create beautiful new designs. Today, the firm’s founder has been joined by his sons Martin and Lars Heinz. “Our invention of the modern clasp has often been described as a milestone in the history of jewellery. Because it’s so easy to interchange, it offers unlimited creative vistas for form to follow function,” says Martin Heinz. The brand continues to unveil new collections such as the Mystery Sphere collection, which offers a new “twist” to design with mysterious spheres that have a tempting outer skin surrounding a precious interior.

The latest in the parade of innovative jewellery is the Magic Pendant. Each pendant, which can be clipped onto a chain or necklace, contains three different looks that the wearer can individually bring into view by means of a user-friendly rotating mechanism. South Sea and Tahitian pearls, diamond pavé, brilliant-cut diamond solitaires, midnight-black onyx, or warm red enamel make this piece of jewellery into a magical quick-change artist, one

that elegantly reflects Jörg Heinz’s slogan: Always different, but always me. Whether creating magical pendants or interchangeable clasps, the Jörg Heinz team can always figure out a way to tie up the loose ends. (www.joerg-heinz.com)

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Throughout the history of jewellery, designers have viewed the clasp, often a simple hook, as an unloved and often neglected necessity. That is, until 1974.

By T. R. Flora

P r o f i l e

Jörg Heinz – Tying Up THe Loose ends

THE “MAGIC“ SPHEREA PLAYFUL APPEARANCE CONCEALING PERFECT TECHNOLOGY. THE NEW "MAGIC PENDANT COLLECTION“: PRECIOUSQUICK-CHANGE ARTISTS CREATED BY JÖRG HEINZ. WWW.JOERG-HEINZ.COM | COUTURE SHOW BOOTH NO. 254

The Skagen Denmark jewellery collections feature elegant, sophisticated Danish design with organic detail, the trademark of all Skagen products. Designed to captivate the eye and enlighten the spirit, each piece glimmers in polished or brushed silver stainless steel, some featuring hues of gold, rose gold, or dusky grey. Organic elements from the

landscapes of Denmark inspired the creation of these pieces, from the necklaces to the bracelets, from the earrings to the pendants. Among these sophisticated jewellery collections are Pernille and Ida.

The Pernille Collection An artist’s playful trail made while strolling the beach… A glistening essence from the sky above… Curves along the coast… Sea shells washing upon the shoreline… All are moving design forces that inspired the creation of the Pernille Collection. Necklaces adorn rolled mesh chains in silver or gold and polished pendants. Rings, earrings, and cuffs are polished with mesh inlay. The elegantly and artfully combined pieces offer a collection that can be intermixed and layered or worn on its own. The Ida Collection Just as we are moved with emotion when experiencing a breathtaking oceanfront view, we can also be captivated by elegant objects of desire, whether artwork in the form of a sculpture or a piece of fine jewellery. The essence is carried throughout when one recognizes the beauty of how nature performs. The simple act of wispy fresh dune grass moving in the wind—as if dancing in merriment—provides the creative framework and design inspiration for this collection.

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The northern coastal town of Skagen®, Denmark, continually serves as a muse for the development of each piece in the Skagen jewellery collections, offering motivational components that inspire the products. From the shimmer of the Skagen coast, to the smooth shift of the beach sand in the breeze, to the crisp blue skies in summer, all that lives in Skagen comes to life through the brand’s contemporary accessories.

By Erica Lundstrom

P r o f i l e

Skagen denmark– SophiSticated daniSh deSign

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Pernille Collection

Symbolic of the Skagen clashing seas, the collection personifies Danish minimalism. Crafted with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS, rolled stainless steel mesh and a simplified design. Refined luxury - for all occasions.

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Cynthia Steffe by Shaun Kearney, using Pantone Honeysuckle. The must-have item: A sexy, silk laser-cut off-the-shoulder dress in shade of Pink is a modern take on boho!

James Coviello, using Pantone Lavender. The must-have item: A floral print skirt in any combination of our prominent colours of Golden Tobacco, Mandarin Nude, Midnight Lavender, Shocking Lime, Bright Fuchsia, Dusty Royal.

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T O P T E N T R E N D S

1 COLOUR

In fashion, 2011 foretells an optimistic new year with colours that present an interesting mix of warm and cool shades, with intriguing combinations that evoke fantasies and faraway places. Colour is one of the strongest trends in jewellery, with shades ranging from sub-tle pastel hues to lively jewel tones, evoked by gemstones, enamel, and coloured metals.

2 NATURE

There is no better show-case than Nature when it comes to colour and style. A constant source of inspira-tion for jewellers, the most popular trends for 2011 are the ever-popular flowers and butterflies, frogs and fish, snakes and scorpions, as well as jungle motifs, in both realistic and highly fanciful designs.

Elena Martinico

Syna

Tresor

Pippo Perez

JewelmerGreen G.

Chopard

Opera Omnia

Erica Courtney

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Tracy Reese, using Pantone Russet. The must-have item: A classic Tracy Reese silk blouse in Nude.


Carmen Marc Valvo, using Pantone Blue Curacao. The must-have item: The little Blue dress… Blue has great social significance. It is the signature colour of colon cancer awareness, the platform for my spring 2011 collection.

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3 HOOPS & DANGLES

Hoop earrings continue as a peren-nial favourite, both in plain metal and set with gems, in simple or stylized designs. Elaborate shoulder dust-ers are once again in favour, and are one of the preferred pieces seen on the runways and the red carpet.

4 CUFFS & BANGLES

From small stackable bangles to exotic cuffs, wrist wear is a staple item for today’s fashionistas. With designs ranging from the simple to the sophisticated, with or without diamonds and gemstones, they are a must-have accessory for 2011.

Gumuchian

Autore

Carelle

Calgaro

Ramon

The Fifth Season

Maya Jewels

Vianna

Ivanka Trump

Wo m an . Whe re i t a l l b e g i n s .

401 Queen’s Diamond, 5 MP Marg, Opera House, Mumbai 400 004, India. Tel: +91 22 2369 4211. Fax: +91 22 2363 1678. Email: [email protected] • www.bapalalkeshavlal.comVisit us at International Jewellery Tokyo (Japan) • Hong Kong Jewellery & Watch Show (March) • BaselWorld (Switzerland) • About J (Milan) • Luxury by JCK (Las Vegas) • JCK- Prestige Promenade (Las Vegas)

India International Jewellery show (Mumbai) • Hong Kong Jewellery & Watch Show (Sept) • JIS Miami • Jewellery Arabia (Bahrain)

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BapalalCIJ_trend2011FP.pdf 11/2/10 12:18:47 PM

Erin Fetherston, using Pantone Peapod. The must-have fashion item: A kimono-inspired evening jacket in a floral print featuring shades of Mint, Parrot Green, Black and highlights of Ivory and Lavender – I like the idea of this piece styled over a little Black mini-dress.

ne Peaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaapopooooooopoooooooood. item: AAAAAAAAA AAAAAA

ng jackkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkeeeeeeteeeeeeeeee g shadedededededeeeedededeeeees Black aaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnndnnnn Lavendddddder –


Tadashi Shoji, using Pantone Silver Cloud. The must-have fashion item: A silk chiffon wave ruffle cocktail dress in Ice.

g g yI like the idea of this pieover a little Black mini-d

Erin Fetherston, using PantonThe must-have fashion ikimono-inspired eveninin a floral print featuringof Mint, Parrot Green, Bhighlights of Ivory and L

ntone Silverve fashionn waves in Ice.

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6 ECO-JEWELLERY

Over the last few years, there has been an increased awareness of jewellery that is produced with little or no harm to the environment. This includes using recycled and ethi-cally-mined metals, fair-trade gem-stones, and conflict-free diamonds, as well as safe and fair working conditions for miners, jewellers, and gem-cutters.

5 ROUGHING IT

A diamond or gemstone does not have to be perfect to make an el-egant piece of jewellery. The grow-ing trend of using raw, rough, and sliced diamonds and coloured gem-stones—that would previously have been ignored or discarded—shows no signs of abating as consumers appreciate these more natural looks and textures.

Toby Pomeroy

Coomi

Rahaminov Diamonds

Diamonds For A Cure

Eco-Jewel

S&R Designs

La Reina

As BIG as your IDEASwww.diarough.com

HONG KONG +852 2721 2682

ANtwerp+32 3 234 24 24

New YOrK+1 212 282 11 00

Christian Siriano, using Pantone Coral Rose: The must-have item: A breadth of silhouettes including flow-ing wide-legged trousers, safari shorts, jackets, kimono sleeves, structured cocktail dresses, and light flowing evening gowns.

istian Siriano, uussisiiinnnnng Pantone Corral Rosee must-haaavavvaaa eeeee item: A breeadthsilhouettttteseseseesseses including flflow-

g wide-legegegeeggeggeegegggggggegg d trousers,, safaorts, jacccckckckckckckkkckckcc eeeeteeeee s, kimono slleevesructurededededdddeddedededdde ccccc cc oooocoo ktail dressees, anht flowwwwiiwiwiwwiwiwiwiwiwinnngnggngngngnngng e vening gowwns.

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Lela Rose, using Pantone Regatta.The must-have item: A scribble cotton print dress with a drop-away sleeve that has every color in a Crayola box.

7 AIRY & OPEN

As gold and other precious metals continue their upward climb, jewel-lery designers have come up with innovative ways to create afford-able luxury. Today’s laser technology along with more traditional methods offers inventive and original solu-tions for lacy and openwork designs that create an impressive look at a more reasonable price.

8 SILVER & TITANIUM

Silver has joined the ranks of noble metals as well as that of luxury jewel-lery. Combined with diamonds, gem-stones, and even gold, silver comes in its natural state, as a blackened metal or even plated with ruthenium for a gunmetal look. Titanium is the metal of choice for many designers, who set it with precious stones in its natural grey state or in a variety of coloured metal versions.

Mirella

Sunghee Kim for Azuelos Jewellery

Bapalal Keshavlal

Bastian

Stephen Webster

Rodney Rayner

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Bibhu Mohabatra, using Pantone Silver Peony. The must-have item: A cotton/silk short shift day-to-night dress with cutouts and Beige tulle sleeves in Cerulean Blue.

Yoana Baraschi, using Pantone Beeswax. The must-have item: A Picasso-inspired sailor stripe knit blazer in Shell and Navy brings a whimsical side to any mix while also looking ‘90s West Side grunge when worn over a leopard or floral print.


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Brosway

Pandora

Chamilia

Lori Bonn

Vendorafa

Preziose

Manoel Bernardes

9 SO PERSONAL

The “bead” phenomenon has taken the jewellery world by storm over the last few years. Offering clients a per-sonal way to create jewellery that re-flects their lifestyle and tastes, these beads come in silver, gold, enamel, with or without gemstones, in brace-lets, rings, and necklaces.

10 ORGANIC

The world of fine jewellery re-flects the shift in sensibilities to-wards more “organic” attributes in many domains. Textured, fluid, and asymmetric shapes have taken on a life of their own, in metal alone or set with precious gemstones and diamonds.

The jewellery of The Fifth Season embodies strong and bold designs that evoke real emotions and interpret the personality of the woman who wears these contemporary creations. Crafted in a range of precious

metals—white, yellow, and pink gold, platinum, and silver—often set with vibrant and colourful gemstones—these captivating collections

are epitomized by strong figurative styling.

The pieces seem to change character when on the body, echoing the moods, personality, and behaviour of their wearer. They can be fascinating or formal, comfortable

with daywear or elegant when framed by a beautiful evening dress.

Evoking the highest level of Italian artistry and design, the jewellery of The Fifth Season is crafted in the finest techniques

of artisanal workmanship combined with the most sophisticated industrial support, which together provide the ultimate in quality,

wearability, and comfort.

Among this year’s lovely collections is the Masai line that offers a range of intricately woven pieces in yellow, white, and peach gold set with

diamonds. From the coasts of Western Europe to New Zealand, from the shores of Bahrain to Southern California, beaches are layered with pebbles that have been caressed by the sea’s unending waves. Inspired by these natural shapes, the Pebbles Collection includes necklaces, bracelets, rings, and earrings made in precious electroformed 18K gold or enamelled “pebbles,” strung together on gold chains.

A uniquely contemporary brand, The Fifth Season evokes a zest for life, and the echo of a new dimension.

La Quinta Stagione Spa, Via dei Molini, 129 - 36100 Vicenza, ItalyTel. +39 0444 252999 - www.thefifthseason.it

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The fifth season is a young company born out of a desire to be different, while at the same time offering

products that are in harmony with current tastes, trends, and fashions.

By Rayan Innue

P r o f i l e

The FiFTh SeaSon – The echo oF a

new DimenSion

Pebbles Collection

Masai Collection

Masai Collection

For more than 30 years, Zoltan David’s original style of jewellery has garnered international recognition and praise. Starting with a DeBeers diamond award in 1979, his creations have won dozens of prestigious awards, including five AGTA awards and three AGS awards, among many others. He has earned the title of Designer of the Year on many occasions, and is considered to be one of the top 100 designers of the last three decades.But he does not rest on his laurels. “I regard these awards as gifts received with joyous gratitude. They are a welcome confirmation that I am continuing on the right path.”And on the right path he is… His groundbreaking designs have resulted in two patents, one in 2003 for his signature metal ornamentation technique, and one in 2006 for the “Danglier.” A third is pending for his new Knight Dreams™ Collection. “The Knight Dreams™ Collection is a vision started over two years ago,” he explains. “The research and development for something this innovative can be quite intense and involved.” The black cobalt chromium used in these pieces has a diamond-like hardness that is the most highly resistant surface against scratching, denting, and wear in the jewellery industry. The pieces can also be large since this alloy is very light, similar to titanium. The new Knight Dreams™ Collection also responds to the four factors that Zoltan considers essential in good jewellery design: durability, wearability, originality, and beauty.Sir Zoltan David (he was knighted by the Hungarian government in 1988)poetically explains more about this new collection. “The marrying of hard and soft metals is a thing of beauty. There is a true balance of yin and yang, the hard and soft of the metals, the light of gold and platinum and the dark of the black cobalt chromium, the precious and the non-precious metal combinations, the bright light of gemstones on a background as dark as the midnight sky. These opposites create balance, and balance is the key to beauty.”Knight Dreams™ is a blend of the most advanced technology available in the industry today and old-school goldsmithing and craftsmanship. The collection appeals to those seeking luxury as well as those cautious about not spending too much in these uncertain times. Although a couture line with high karat gold, platinum, high quality diamonds, gemstones, and pearls, it retails between $1,000 and $6,000. Each piece is also protected under his patent #6594901. In addition to selling Knight DreamsTM through selected retailers, it will be the focus of the brand’s second single-brand boutique to be opened soon in Austin, Texas. (www.zoltandavid.com)

p r o f i l e

Zoltan David is one of a rare breed of truly innovative creators. His continuous flow of perfectly crafted and original jewellery reflects a technical savoir-faire and an imagination that are in a class all by themselves.


Zoltan DaviD – From the Knight’s Dream to Knight Dreams™

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Knight DreamsTM Collection

“We are family!” This is a phrase that is echoed around the world by some of the finest designers and retailers when they talk about their relationship with Diarough, and who depend on the company for a supply of high quality stones. Although world famous for the delicately hued Fancy Colors it pioneered, the foundation

of Diarough’s business remains its wide selection of exquisite white diamonds—all mined, sought out, and beautifully brought out to meet the demands of its large array of loyal customers.

As a major global player, Diarough sources its rough diamonds from all the world’s major miners, including DTC, BHP, Rio Tinto, and Alrosa. Its cutting operations are also international, and include facilities in India, Thailand, Botswana, and South Africa. Diarough is committed to operating at the highest professional and ethical standards in accordance with the Best Practice Principles (BPP). The company is also a founding member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC).

“Diarough’s unfaltering growth has been achieved by living and breathing diamonds every day since its visionary founder, Mahendra Parikh, set up his shingle, rolled up his sleeves, and began building

the family-based business, one stone and one customer at a time,” says CEO Nishit “Bali” Parikh. And as the core business grew, Diarough developed many other facets of the business and opened offices in New York and Hong Kong, with operations in eleven countries. Having offices and multi-disciplinary businesses around the world gives Diarough a leading edge in this field, and its leadership in

the industry is further evidenced by the election of “Bali” Parikh as president of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre for the next two years.

The firm’s ethos and ethics have garnered both trust and respect, and with Diarough this respect is tinged with genuine affection. The unique humanity and feeling for people began with the Parikh founding family. It continues today, embraced by specialist staffers who strive for excellence and by suppliers to whom the company owes much and shows its gratitude. Among Diarough’s broad range of loyal customers—including some of the world’s major retailers—they all have a sense of identity with Diarough. It is no wonder then, that they all feel “We are family!”. (www.diarough.com)

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In a highly fragmented marketplace, and in just thirty-five years, Diarough NV has become one of the most influential diamond dealers in the world today.

By T. R. Flora

P r o f i l e

DIAROUGH – At tHe cUttInG eDGe

elena Votsi.Diarough’s goods range from whites to the rarest of pinks, from the extremely small to the large and spectacular.

Sharing her time between New York, São Paulo, and Paris, this talented jewellery artist has earned a well-deserved reputation for her bold, innovative, and playful—yet sophisticated—pieces. Made in 18K gold, gemstones, diamonds, and pearls, the Perpetual Motion collection was “inspired by the movement in children’s toys,”

she explains. “I want my pieces to create the same kind of excitement a child feels for a new, fantastic toy. They are like having a personal toy around your neck.” Each of her ingenious pieces is handcrafted in Brazil where she works with local stonecutters to obtain the colourful one-of-a-kind gemstones that her skilful goldsmiths turn into very limited kinetic collections. “Brazil is where I feel most creative. I spend several months a year at my studio and showroom there, fine-tuning my designs and producing the collection,” she adds. For much of the rest of the year, Yael lives in New York where in 2007—only ten years after her professional debut—she opened her own boutique at 922 Madison Avenue. The store has rows of colourful candy-like gemstones and visually interesting toy-inspired pieces, moving and swinging with an energy all their own. “A client who walks into the store immediately sees that everything moves, rattles, and comes alive like in a child’s universe,” she adds.With a museum-like quality to her very untraditional work, it is not surprising

that Yael Sonia’s jewellery is featured in galleries in the USA, Brazil, and France. Béatrice Trelcat, director of the Galerie Elsa Vanier in Paris, specializing

in contemporary design, explains, “We have been showing Yael’s work for four years now. At first, we had to educate our clientele to her range of colours, the

cut of her gemstones, and her unconventional settings. It takes time to appreciate, in full, the detail of these intricately designed pieces. Like

layers of a secret, they reveal themselves slowly.” Equally delightful as her Perpetual Motion pieces, her other collections include “Rock”, “Kite,” “Spinning Top,” and “Deco.” Recently, she unveiled her collection of handcrafted platinum jewellery. She is even taking her signature Perpetual Motion line to a different level with interactive kits, which let her clients personalize their own pieces with a choice of colours and

gemstones. With all of this activity, accomplishments, awards, and acclaim, it is clear to see why Yael Sonia herself is a designer

in perpetual motion. (www.yaelsonia.com)60

The creator of the much acclaimed and award-winning “Perpetual Motion” jewellery collection, with its swinging pendulums, rolling spheres, and spinning tops, designer Yael Sonia herself seems to be in perpetual motion.


P r o f i l e

Yael Sonia – a DeSigner in PerPetual Motion

elena Votsi.

Alpilex Diamond MFG. BVBAPelikaanstraat 78, Room 604-605, Box 140

2018 Antwerpen - Belgium

[email protected]

WHATEVER SHAPE OR QUALITY YOU WANT,WHEREVER, WHENEVER AND AT THE MOST ATTRACTIVE PRICES

ASK FOR OUR FREE DIAMOND PRICELIST

Pure Light: This all-white theme focuses on the sheer radiance and purity of white zirconia, topaz, sapphire, and jewels that scintillate with white light rather than with color. Pure Light marks a renewed appreciation of the timeless appeal of

colorless stones, offering infinite reflections, drawing the wearer and onlooker deeper into the jewelry to admire its inner fire. Reference: Powerfully modernist with meaning, relevance, and connectivity, this theme nurtures bold, urban statement

jewels for the ultimate, confident self-expression. The concept of classicism is rejuvenated through aristocratic, architectural abstraction, touched by a strong sensuality, pointing to a new,

powerful femininity. A neutral blend of beige, grey and black, silver and golden marcasite tones is offset with occasional classic dark

navy blue.Memories: A nostalgic theme with a contemporary edge that shows

ingenuity and creativity in reinventing the past for today’s femininity. Delicate in detail, with a childlike quality, these emotive jewels explore the nature of preciousness, celebrating exquisite artistry and skilful crafts. A palette of bleached pale tones is burnished with a faded grandeur and warmed by powdery pinks, corals and gold.Experience: Exuberant, extravagant and experimental, the multi-layered jewels in this theme are opulent but playful and break with boundaries and conventions to express personality rather than social status. Strongly dark talismanic influences and expressively personal inspirations are mixed with joyous abandon to create

a rich, extrovert, colorful glamour. An extreme palette of deep, strong pinks, dark ruby reds and noble amethysts is accented with terracotta, peat and forest green, to create a chiaroscuro effect.

Dreamstorming: This trend looks at the global phenomenon of the two massive emerging markets, China and India. Asian traditions are fused with Western style,

underpinned with a quest to create future ancestral jewels. Colors encompass a range of tarnished tones, deep hot pinks, golden ochres, saffrons, and purples of India, tinged with earthy copper, sand and dust and various shades of Chinese Jade, with touches of sea green and kingfisher blue.

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SWAROVSKI GEMS™, Swarovski’s distinguished product brand for genuine gemstones and created stones, has forecast the creative path gems will take in 2011 through Gem Visions, its influential global trend and design service. Gem Visions 2011, an exciting and enticing evolution of the pioneering trend and design book, identifies five design directions for this year.

By T.R. Flora

P r o f i l e

SWAROVSKI GEMS™ PRESEntS GEM VISIOnS 2011

elena Votsi.

Dreamstorming: Necklace in

Swarovski Zirconia New Reversed Cut

White, New Lemon

Cut Mint Green,

Salmon Pink and White, and

Gemstones New Arc Cut in Black

Spinel, set in 18K gold by Abhijeet Das.

Memories: Jewellery in Swarovski Zirconia New Lemon Cut Salmon Pink, Mint Green, and Ziconia White set in 14K gold by Belatriz Design Team.

Reference: Pen in Swarovski Zirconia Amber and IP rose-gold titanium by John Hu.

Experience: Ring in Swarovski gemstones of Amethyst, Passion Topaz, Peridot, Pink Sapphire, Rhodolite, and Ruby set in 14K gold by Nika Petrosyan.

Pure Light: Ring by Patrick Mauboussin.

2

13

4

1. Rhodolite Grape Fan Cut.2. Citrine Saffron Oval Cut.3. Zirconia Mint Green

TCF™ Lemon Cut.4. Passion Topaz Trilight Cut

For Korean designer, Ji-Eun Kim, traditional jewellery did not go far enough in expressing her love of Nature. “On earth, there is nothing more beautiful than Nature, especially its colourful flowers,” she muses. “I wanted to capture this beauty in gold and precious gemstones.” She and her team at Vajra experimented with various casting techniques to try and cast real flowers and leaves.“The first challenge was to find flowers that did not wilt. The second was to give the right colour to the flowers once they were cast,” she explains. In addition to capturing Nature’s blooms in precious metals, she set out to find eco-friendly materials and manufacturing techniques. After all, immortalizing Nature in flowers and leaves is one thing. “But it is also important not to harm the environment in the process,” she insists.The result is a special precision casting technique using gold or platinum that realizes the actual form and texture of the natural living flower or leaf without using any artificial treatments. Innovative and original, this technique has received several patents. When you think that a leaf or flower’s thickness is approximately 0.2 to 0.3 mm, the reproduction of the blossom is quite amazing. “All of our jewellery is carefully handcrafted in our workshop in Korea, and we often have customers who bring in flowers that have a special significance for them. We will cast them, put in the right colours, and provide them with a beautiful piece of jewellery. It is a memorable keepsake of an important occasion that they can cherish forever.” Vajra’s Gina Collection is sold in the brand’s own boutiques in Korea and China, as well as through retailers in Hong Kong, China, Japan, Taiwan, Singapore, Dubai, and the United States. The brand is also present at the major trade shows in Korea, China, Hong Kong, Dubai, and JCK Las Vegas. Are there plans to expand? “Yes,” adds Ji-Eun Kim. “We are now starting to explore the European market.” Where, it is sure, customers will appreciate the eternal blossoms of Vajra’s Gina Collection. (www.gina4u.com - [email protected])

With her two passions as inspiration—one for jewellery and one for flowers—designer Ji-Eun Kim created a very original and beautiful collection of fine jewellery using real blossoms.


Vajra’s Gina ColleCtion – eternal Blossoms

p r o f i l e

Ji-eun Kim

CarnationHydrangea

Gina’s Bouquet

Gina’s Garden

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Inhorgenta is an important international industry get-together, and one of its goals is to pay tribute to the most innovative concepts of the year. Whether jewellery, watches, gemstones, or lifestyle, the inhorgenta award honours exceptional products and their creators. For the first time, at the upcoming inhorgenta 2011, the awards for jewellery design, silver objects, and platinum jewellery, as well as the innovation award will be bundled into one major award, presented in nine different categories; each award goes to the most innovative product or its designer in its category.Industry innovations - The goal of the award is to honour products distinguished by their innovative character, as well as to pay tribute to extraordinary personalities who support and further the industry. Awards will be presented in the following categories: Carat, Contemporary Design, Lifestyle Brands, Selection, Timepieces, Tableware, Technology, Special, and Lifetime

Achievement. Among the selection criteria, which apply to each of the categories, are innovation and design, aesthetic quality, functionality, as well as contemporary implementation.Participants from all segments - Objects from the entire bandwidth of the jewellery and watch industry are eligible to enter the award competition. This

includes gemstone jewellery, avant-garde design, branded products, silver objects and silverware, watches, tool shop equipment, pearl jewellery, and more. An international jury will evaluate the entries in each category. Among the experts selected for the jury are journalists, designers, trend consultants, museum curators, and prominent personalities.

inhorgenta awards open to entries from non-exhibitors - Even entries from companies or designers who are not exhibiting at inhorgenta will be accepted for the inhorgenta awards competition. All participants must submit their entries by January 12, 2011 at the latest. After the deadline, the jury will select three finalists from all entries in each category. Following this pre-selection, the finalists will be announced on the inhorgenta website (www.inhorgenta.com). Subsequently, the jury will choose the winners of the individual categories from these finalists. The award presentation will be held on February 25, 2011 at inhorgenta 2011. All finalists as well as trade journalists and other exhibitors will be invited to the award ceremony at the Castle Restaurant in Hall B1.Award as a career stepping stone - For the winners of the inhorgenta award this is not just an honour, but an essential stepping stone for their careers. History has shown that award winners have benefitted from the increased attention the award generated for them, and thus allowed them to promote their creations more effectively. Media and retail are made aware of the award-winning designs and this considerably increases their exposure and popularity. The winners have the opportunity to begin marketing their achievements during inhorgenta, which has the added benefit of improving their position on the market and in public. All winners will also receive comprehensive marketing and communication support leading up to the subsequent inhorgenta 2012.

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The inhorgenta award honours innovations from all segments

Honouring tHe industry’s Creative spirits

s p o t l i g h t

Messe München GmbHTel: (+49 89) 9 49 -1 13 [email protected]

CONTACTS PROMOTE SUCCESS.

For trade visitors only

38th International trade fairfor jewellery, watches, design,gemstones and technology

MUNICH, 25 – 28 FEBRUARY 2011

Inh11_BasisAZ_Fasz_205x265_E_Intl.indd 1 15.09.2010 10:25:17 Uhr

The international gold, gems, and jewellery event at the Vicenza Fair ended on a positive note with an increase in overall visitors of 4.5 percent over the 2009 edition, while the number of international buyers increased

by 7 percent, attesting to the growing internationality of the Italian trade show. Nearly 13,700 trade professionals from 107 countries came to see the

jewellery and gems proposed by some 1,370 exhibitors (996 from Italy and 374 from 31 countries). An indication of the growing consumer confidence in Italy was seen in the high volume of retailers from many regions in the nation, also confirming the role of

the September edition of Vicenzaoro as a meeting place for the sector as it prepares for increased sales during the Christmas period—the high-

point for the gold and jewellery business worldwide.On a more global level, the signs of economic recovery worldwide are helping the Italian sector to regain some stability. Figures from ISTAT indicate

that Italian jewellery exports increased during the first half of 2010 by 23 percent over 2009, for a total of €1,778 million, with exports going above all

to nations such as China, Hong Kong, the UAE, and Turkey. Having said that, this difficult downturn has also had an effect on the design of Italian (and other)

products as well as the approach brands are taking towards the national and global marketplace.

Design Directions The record rising gold prices have resulted in an increased number of lightweight designs, lower priced gemstones used in combination with the more “precious” varieties, and the use of mixed media, such as wood, leather, bronze, and multi-coloured titanium. Silver continues to be a noble metal, adopted by many high-end brands, which are creating fashionable designer collections in the white metal,

often with diamonds and other precious gems.Design directions tended to be widespread, not

surprising given the range of brands with their different stylistic approaches. Colour was the biggest overall trend, along with black and white combinations. As usual, the Nature theme in both flora and fauna was quite prevalent as were

The third in the Vicenzaoro trilogy of trade fairs held in the historic Italian city closed its doors last September with cautiously optimistic views for the future.


66

Ebony, gold, and diamond jewellery by Raffaella Mannelli.

Gold and diamond ring by Luca Carati.

Gold earrings by Daniel Espinosa

M a R k E t p L a C E

Blackened and pink gold ring by Baraka. Diamond and gold lace earrings by Casato.

Vicenzaoro choice ended on a note of cautious optimism

BASELWORLDTHE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW

MARCH 24 – 31, 2011

WWW.BASELWORLD.COM

bsw11_kamp_205x265_e.indd 1 30.07.10 09:10

Diamond and pink gold ring by Alfieri & St. John.

Diamond and gold ring by Antonini.

the edgy urban chic styles. Enamel continues to be a favourite of a number of Italian brands, portrayed in colourful motifs of all kinds.

Gem World and GlamroomExhibitors at the two recent additions to the fair, Glamroom—grouping together a number of emerging and established brands and designers—and Gem World—in association Assogemme Association—showcased a wide variety of jewellery designs from around the world as well as colourful gemstones and diamonds. Among the many talented Glamroom participants was returning German brand Bastian, offering a selection of modern silver creations, and newcomer Daniel Espinosa from Mexico with a variety of silver, gold, and gemstone jewellery. Another newcomer to Glamroom was S+Ability, offering special metal-alloy bracelets that help in maintaining good health. In keeping with the growing trend towards sustainable and eco-friendly jewellery, Italian brand EcoJewel showcased pieces made from enamel and precious, recycled materials (gold and silver from old jewellery and manufacturing scraps) and Eco-Gems (synthetic products from Switzerland with the same physical and chemical characteristics as natural stones). The company says that its activities have Zero Impact® on the environment, certified by LifeGate.Vicenza will again be in the global spotlight for fine jewellery at its winter fair, to be held January 15 to 20, 2011. (www.vicenzafiera.it)

Multicolour gemstone earrings by Santagostino.

Gold USB keys by D-Duke.

Gemstone, gold, and diamond earrings by Marco Bicego.

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Gemstone, enamel, and gold pendants by Ninetto Terzano.

Bracelet made of a special alloy that helps promote well-being and health by S+Ability.

With two separate venues focusing on jewellery at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre in Wanchai and loose diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls, and packaging at the AsiaWorld-Expo location near the airport, this international trade show, held September 14 to 20, welcomed 44,274 trade professionals—13 percent increase from 2009—from 135 countries and regions who came to see the wares of some 3205 exhibitors from 45 countries and regions—5 percent growth over last year. Hong Kong-based visitors totalled 15,788, for 36 percent of the total,

with the remaining 64 percent coming from around the world, an increase of 22.5 percent over last year. “The remarkable growth in visitor numbers not only points to the Fair’s steady progress but also confirms its importance and the effectiveness of our promotion efforts,” said Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia. The greatest number of visitors, by far, came from China and India, followed by the USA and Taiwan. “The Fair results left us with no doubt that China and India are driving jewellery demand worldwide today. However, there were also other markets that showed notable participation: Belgium, Brazil, Israel, the Russian Federation, Taiwan, Turkey and the United States. This performance is beyond our expectations

and tells us clearly that apart from traditional and mainstream jewellery markets, there are emerging markets that show great

potential to become a force of growth in the future.”Sectors of the fair included the world’s largest diamond pavilion (400 companies from Antwerp, Israel, India, and the USA), the “Pavilion of the Year” (India, with 130

companies), the largest overseas pavilion (Thailand, with 439 companies), 22 group pavilions representing countries

from around the world, and the world’s largest showcase of Hong Kong jewellery (1,387 exhibitors in the two venues) as well as sections for silver, jadeite, pearl jewellery and the Designer’s

Avenue. Among the themed pavilions were the Fine Design Pavilion in the Grand Hall, the Hong Kong Premier Pavilion, the International Premier Pavilion (brands from 19 countries),

M A R K E T P L A C E

Rightfully claiming the title as the world’s largest jewellery trade fair, the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair broke its own

attendance and exhibitor records last September. For many exhibitors, these numbers represented cautious optimism for a recovery in the jewellery and gem sectors.


Hong Kong Jewellery & gem Fair BreaKs its own records

70

Among the new launches at the fair was the new brand Valerio B (Hong Kong), which displayed a range of fine gemstone jewellery, including this tourmaline and diamond ring.

The beauty of opal has been taken to a new dimension by Japan-based Dreamtime, which has added to its fine jewellery with creatively designed scarves, coats and vests evoking the iridescent colours of these precious gems.

Among the popular Nature trends is the

spider, as depicted with various gemstones by Goldiaq (Hong Kong).

Among the fine gem dealers at the AWE was USA-based AG Color, with a variety of fine gems including these matched tanzanite drops.

Exhibiting at the AWE, Sara Gems (USA) showcased a variety of gems including this blue sapphire.

Since 1991

Printor Paris4-5 September 2011Palais Brongniart

Printor Lyon6-8 February 2011

Lyon Eurexpo

The Jewel andWatch FrenchTrends Show

www.printor.fr

AP-SUISSE-205x265:Mise en page 1 29/10/10 15:46 Page 1

and the Fine Gem Pavilion at the AWE location. As can be imagined, jewellery of every type and price point could be found at the fair, ranging from inexpensive silver and steel items to extravagant pieces made of platinum and gold set with fine gemstones and diamonds. The images on these pages are just a few of the many examples of fine jewellery and gems that could be found last September in Hong Kong. Next year’s Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair will be held from September 19 to 23 at the AsiaWorld-Expo and September 21 to 25

at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre.

A Few Exhibitor Comments

We are satisfied with the result and have received some orders. I think the number of buyers from India and Australia is up from last year. I like the image and design of the International Premier Pavilion… We will exhibit again next year. – Antonio Calvo Garcia, Director Commercial of Magerit Joyas, Spain.

There were obviously more buyers from China and India this year. We received orders from Eastern European buyers… We will exhibit again in the

HKPP in both June and September. – Ray Chan, Marketing & Product Manager of Sunlight Jeweler, Hong Kong.

We met many target buyers from the USA. The number of Australian buyers doubled from last year… The product sectorization helped bring buyers who were focused on our

products. We are satisfied with the result. – M C M Nawaz, Chairman of Bright Gems International (Pvt) Ltd, Sri Lanka,

exhibitor at AWE.

It’s the first time we exhibit in Hong Kong and so far we have met customers from the USA and Asia. We are looking forward to the next few days for more business

opportunities. – Hartin Heinz, Jorg Heinz, Germany.

We think this year’s fair is very good in all aspects, including the scale, quality of buyers and the organizer’s service. We met many buyers from Asia, in particular from India. – Amer Murad, Director of M S D, Belgium, exhibitor at AWE.

I am satisfied with the overall results at AWE. Since the product sectorization last year, meeting our target buyers has become


72

Jorg Heinz (Germany) proposed a variety of decorative clasps as well as pendants such this piece from the Magic Pendant collection.

Forever Jewels (Singapore) epitomizes the themes of Nature and colour in this opal, diamond, and sapphire ring.

Creativity “Extension” style in gold, diamonds, and gemstone from The Inspired Collection (New Zealand).

Spanish brand Ramon proposed a range of styles of bangles, earrings, and rings with large centre stones such as this white goland rutila quartz ring.

Among the USA brands exhibiting in Hong Kong, Hidalgo Jewels presented a variety of lovely enamel, gold, and bejewelled rings, brooches, and bangles.

A range of diamond and bridal jewellery was showcased by BK Jewellery, such as this solitaire engagement ring in the brand’s Lady Dream collection.

Day and Night is the name of the black and white diamond collection by Continental (Hong Kong).

E&V Jewellery (Hong Kong) showcased a variety of colourful collections including this amethyst and diamond necklace from

the “80s Collection.”

a lot easier. I met many buyers from the USA, Canada, and Indonesia... I will exhibit again next year. – Michael Knight, president of tools and equipment supplier, Castaldo, USA, exhibitor at AWE.

A Few Visitor Comments

This is my first visit to a jewellery fair in Asia. I’ve long known about this Fair and I’m happy I finally got

to see it. It is very impressive. The presence of many excellent suppliers from different countries exceeds my

expectations… The Fair is buyer-oriented. The product sectorization policy helped facilitate my sourcing trip. I

will visit again next year. – Rickey Joel Erickson, VP Retail Merchandising of Riddle’s Group, USA.

This is my first visit to the September Fair. I came to look for new suppliers of diamonds, gemstones, pearls, and fine finished

jewellery. The quality of exhibitors is good. I met some suppliers from Germany and the United States. The product quality is high and

prices are competitive… I’m visiting the next edition. – Olga Bukatina, General Manager of Luxuria Jewellery Studio, Russian Federation.

This is my tenth visit to the Fair… Products are of good quality and are competitively priced. The sectorization of products made my sourcing efficient. Also, instructions are very clear so it was easy for me to locate products… I’d like to visit again next year. – Jack Giang, Manager of Venezia Jewellery, Australia.

I visit the September Fair not to find suppliers but to update myself with the latest market information. I want to know the market trends, such as buyers’ preferences. I

think the overall organisation of the Fair is good and I feel the organizer has put much effort into

making the Fair even more attractive. I usually find many new elements in the Fair during each visit… I will visit again, definitely. – Feng Kang, representative of Anteng

Jewelry Speciality Shop, China.74

Black and white diamonds were a significant trend, as seen in these earrings by Sartoro (Thailand).

Sliced diamonds are being used in innovate ways to create spectacular fine jewellery as in this diamond necklace by La Reina (USA).

Fanciful fairies are popular around the world, and gracefully represented in a variety of gemstones and diamonds by HH Gems Co (Hong Kong).

Among the companies showcasing bridal jewellery was USA-based House of Baguettes with pieces such as this diamond and platinum wedding band.

With rising gold prices, designers like Rodney Rayner (Britain) have added silver to their collections, including the addition of ruthenium-plating to give a durable and unusual finish, as seen in this ruthenium-plated silver ring set with gemstones and diamonds.

Depicting both the Nature theme and the Fairy theme is this cameo pendant with gemstones by Unicorn (Hong Kong).

The ever popular imperial jade combined with diamonds is represented in this cascading necklace by Green G (Hong Kong).

Golden pearl jewellery is becoming very popular around the world, and Philippines-based Jewelmer showcased exquisite examples of golden pearl jewellery combined with diamonds.


A golden pearl combines well with diamonds in this ring by MVee (Hong Kong).

The first brand to set silver with diamonds is Bastian (Germany), what showcased a range of silver and diamond jewellery.

Showcasing Brazil’s diversity in jewellery, culture, and landscape, the 51st edition of Feninjer—the Brazilian Gems and Jewellery Show—dazzled visitors with bright gemstones and bold jewellery fashions. Approximately 7,000 visitors and 130 exhibitors attended the fair, Latin America’s largest, from July 31 to August 3 in São Paulo. Many of Brazil’s top brands, including Brumani, Bruner, FR Hueb, Goldesign, Manoel Bernardes, Vancox, and Vianna, launched new collections targeting the booming domestic market.This year, Feninjer also showcased Brazil’s natural wealth of gemstones by incorporating the Brazil Gem Show, an event previously held in Minas Gerais. The combination of gemstone dealers and jewellery designers exhibiting in a single show highlights Brazil’s unique position as a source of inspired jewellery made from locally available materials. “The incorporation into the fair of the Brazil

Gem Show is yet another important step in showcasing the variety of stones increasingly present in jewellery and fashion jewellery design trends,” explained IBGM President Hécliton Santini.

Booming BrazilDespite the global economic crisis that has affected the rest of the world, Brazil’s economy is a success story. This year, Brazil is expecting GDP growth

of seven to eight percent. Its citizens and industries are benefiting significantly from this growth. The IBGM reports that approximately 30 million people in Brazil


“We are the dessert, the cherry on top,” said Hécliton Santini, president of the Brazilian Gems and Jewellery Trade Association (IBGM), when referring to Brazilian jewellery’s place in the world. “Our jewellery has to be different, innovative, and design-oriented, with a lot of coloured stones.”

By Sarah Siegel

CELEBRATING STYLE, COLOUR, AND DIVERSITY AT BRAZIL’S FENINJER

76

Earrings in 18K white gold with pearls and diamonds by Manoel Bernardes.

Ring in 18K white gold, diamonds, and chocolate briolette diamonds by Art’Orafo.

Reversible hammered gold bracelet by Goldbacker.Bracelet in 18K gold with diamonds and

prasiolite by Brüner.

have risen from poverty over the past few years. These newly empowered consumers now have the disposable income to purchase jewellery, mobile phones, and cars. Many exhibitors at Feninjer offered collections aimed at this market demographic, featuring light and airy bows, delicate silver and gold crosses, and edgier skull pendants. Vancox has created a sub-brand, Blink!, to appeal to the tastes and purchasing power of these consumers. Due to the strong retail climate in Brazil and the difficult economic conditions abroad, many brands are focusing their efforts on collections for the growing domestic market. Most exhibitors at Feninjer explained the situation by noting that while exports are still a priority, the domestic demand is at an all-time high and growing. At the same time, Brazilian jewellery is becoming increasingly more popular around the world, with the U.S., Russia, the Middle East, and Latin America as the industry’s largest export markets. As international economies slowly rebound, exports are once again beginning to increase. According to IBGM, Brazilian jewellery exports increased 20 percent during the first half of 2010 compared to the same period last year. Overall, exhibitors were pleased with Feninjer’s turnout and reported brisk sales.

2011 Jewellery Design PreviewFeninjer was also the venue for the launch of the 2011 Jewellery Design Preview, which highlighted jewellery and fashion jewellery trends in demand by Brazilian consumers for the coming year. The Design Preview identified five themes that would inspire designs for the coming year: Eternal Return, using traditional shapes such as hearts, bows, and religious elements; Daydreaming, with whimsical creations inspired by the imagination; City Lights-Casual Brilliance, with design-oriented gold and diamond pieces; Naturally…Simple Luxury, which highlights Brazil’s environment and growing ecological awareness; and Brazilian at Heart, which showcases Brazil’s coloured gemstones.

Hot Trends at FeninjerFor the export markets and high-end domestic consumers, Brazil’s bold, bright, big, and beautiful designs abounded. This year, the fair presented large, kinetic pieces that dazzled with their colourful gemstones and unique Brazilian style. “When you see the sun every day, when you have weather like this, you are happier, and this is reflected in our work,” explained Roseli Duque of Guilherme Duque.

• Coloured Gemstones. The signature of Brazilian jewellery is vibrant colour. The nation produces approximately one-third of the world’s coloured gemstones, and it is no coincidence that Brazilian designers use this natural wealth to their advantage. From aquamarine to emeralds, from citrine to

77ruby and diamond heart transformable bracelet in 18k gold by preziose.

ring in 18k yellow gold with brown quartz by Danielle.

earrings in 18k textured yellow gold with diamonds by Fr Hueb.

earrings in pink and white 18k gold by Fause Haten/Guillerme Duque.

Imperial topaz, diamond, and 18k white gold earrings by Vianna.

sapphires, from tourmaline to topaz, Feninjer featured a rainbow of Brazilian stones.

Most of the high-end collections offered pieces made with the very rare Imperial topaz—mined only in Brazil—and Paraiba tourmaline.

• Light and Airy. Brazilian jewellery is known for its large pieces with bold impact. This year, while pieces remained eye-catching, the

use of wires, filigree, and asymmetric gold ribbons gave them a new lightness. Chains and concentric circles also allowed for innovative degrees of movement.

• Hearts and Bows. Delicate hearts and bows have captured the eye of women in Brazil and abroad. Soft femininity defined many of the pieces, while the use of modern angles and abstract shapes gave a fresh feel to others.

• Chocolate Diamonds and Gems. Brown diamonds and other brown stones featuring in the collections of almost all major designers provided a contrast to white diamonds.

• Textured Metals and Black Gold. Gold is no longer just gold. Hammered and brushed gold added sophisticated texture, and hints of black accentuated gemstones.

• Movement. From dancing flower petals to rotating ring elements, Brazilian jewellery is full of motion. Nature-inspired pieces use movement to add an aspect of reality to the design, and other moving jewels give the wearer an extra touch of style and whimsy.

About the IBGMFounded in 1977, the Brazilian Gems and Jewellery Trade Association (IBGM) is the national trade association for the gems and jewelry sector and represents the entire production chain. It is composed of 21 state and national trade associations linked to the manufacturing and commerce of gemstones, jewels, fashion jewelry, precious metals, and related accessories. The IBGM conducts activities in three broad areas: institutional, technical, and promotional, including support to Feninjer and the IBGM Design Awards. (www.ibgm.com.br)

m a r k e t p l a c e

ring in 18k yellow gold with aquamarine, diamond, chalcedony,

ruby, rubelite, and blue topaz by Goldesign.

earrings in 18k white gold with round diamonds, aquamarine, and

peridot by Brumani.

78

Bracelet in 18k pink gold with white agate, smoky diamonds, and 18k gold with black rhodium by Vancox.

ring in 18k gold with emerald and beetle wings by Silvia Blumberg.

earrings in purple and red jade, amethyst and 18k gold by marcia mor.

info & registration via: www.antwerpdiamondfair.com

n Sponsored and held under the auspices of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre.

n Exclusive and “by-invitation only” event.

n Exhibitors: 65 antwerp diamond companies.

n Visitors: Jewellery retailers, designers, manufacturers.

Why visit the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair?

1. Find new sources and forge new contacts. Buyers will find that the goods on offer are unobtainable in the rest of the diamond world, while service, speed of shipping and delivery are world class.

2. A huge selection of diamonds. The fair features a dazzling selection of diamonds. In addition, the scope and size of the fair enables buyers to view and compare diamonds in a relaxed setting.

3. A prestigious venue. The two elegant and spacious trading halls of the Antwerp Diamond Bourse and the Antwerp Diamond Club are a world away from the rush and impersonal feeling of big exhibitions.

4. A city trip in Antwerp. The rare chance to experience a pleasant break in Antwerp, possibly together with your partner, and discover the city’s exciting cultural and architectural heritage.

Ann. Trends & Colours 20,5cmx 26,5 Diamond Fair ENG.indd 1 18/11/10 11:14

AG Color 70AGTA 75Alfieri & St John 39, 69Alpilex 61André Bénitah 41Anne Sportun 39Antonini 37, 69Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair 79Art’Orafo 76Assael International CI, 8, 9, 55Autore 25, 55Azuelos Jewellery 30, 53Bapalal Keshavlal 27, 30Baraka 66BaselWorld 67Bastian 16, 17, 30, 35, 74Bellon 51Ben Sabbagh 38BK Jewellery 24, 72Bogh-Art 34Bonato 52Brosway 32Brumani 41, 42, 78Bruner 39, 48, 51, 76Calgaro 25Carelle 25, 39, 48Carla Amorim 48Carol Kauffman 40Carrera y Carrera 52Casato 36, 42, 49, 66Chamilia 32Chimento 34Chopard 25, 46, 49Clementina Duarte 34Continental Jewellery 72

Coomi 28D-Duke 69Daniel Espinosa 66Danielle 77David Lin 50DeGrisogono 48, 52Diamonds for a Cure 28, 46Diarough 29, 58Donna Vock/ Provocative Designs 55Dreamtime 70E&V Jewellery 72Ecojewel 28Elcat Jewels 40Elena Martinico 25Elena Votsi 44, 51Emiko Pearls 54Erica Courtney 25, 34, 38, 42, 50Fatima Sewani 45Fause Haten 77Favero 43Feraud 52Forever Jewels 38, 72FR Hueb 49, 53, 77Gianfranco Ferré/Damiani 34Giovanni Ferraris 47Goldbacker 76Goldesign 45, 78Goldiaq 40, 46, 70Green G 25, 45, 52, 74Gregg Ruth 49Guilherme Duque 77Gumuchian 3, 25, 45, 46Herzo Romain 45

HH Gems 74Hidalgo 72House of Baguettes 74IBGM 59IIJS Signature 73Inhorgenta 64, 65IoSi 46Ivanka Trump 25, 53Jacob’s Jewelry 41James Kaya 37, 41, 43Jane Taylor 36, 43Jewellery Theatre 38Jewelmer 7, 25, 54, 55, 74John Apel 35, 44Joia 36Jolie B. Ray 43Jörg Heinz 20, 21, 72Julieli 37Kabana 47Katrina Kelly 35La Reina 28, 74Leo Pizzo 52Lorenz Baumer 38, 47, 55 Lorenzo 43Lori Bonn 32Louis Vuitton 47Luca Carati 48, 66Magerit 41Manoel Bernardes 32, 48, 76Marcia Mor 41, 78Marco Bicego 69Mark Schneider 44Mastoloni 54Mathon Paris 12, 13, 36, 45Matthia’s & Claire 18, 19

Maya Jewels 25Metalsmith Sterling 50, 53Mi Piaci 39Miiori 40Mimi 51Mirella 30Munsteiner 50MVee/Aspire 33, 54, 74Nanis 46Niche The Show 80Nina Runsdorf 37Ninetto Terzano 69OGI 47Opera Omnia 10, 11, 25, 35Orexport 18, 19OroArezzo CIII Pamela Froman 44, 48Pandora 32Paul & Joe 37Paula Crevoshay 44Petra Class 36Piaget 40Pippo Perez 25, 36Ponte Vecchio 50Preziose 32, 77Print’Or 71Raffaella Mannelli 66Rahaminov Diamonds 28, 43, 49Ramon CII,1, 25, 49, 72Rina Limor 44, 52Ritani 43Rodney Rayner 14, 15, 30, 74Rosy Blue 31Ruth Grieco 45

S&R Designs 28S+Ability 69Santagostino 69Sara Gems 70Sartoro 74Scott Kay 45, 53SEAH 35Shaun Leane/Gemfields 36Siera 53Silvia Blumberg 78Skagen 22, 23Stephen Webster 30, 40, 42Stuller 53Sunghee Kim 30, 53Swarovski 4, 5, 62Syna 25, 39, 51The Fifth Season 25, 56, CIVThe Inspired Collection 72Toby Pomeroy 28Tresor 25TTF Studio 34Unicorn 74Utopia 48Vajra 38, 63Valerio B 47, 70Van Cleef & Arpels 37Vancox 78Vendorafa 11, 32Vianna 25, 35, 42, 49, 50, 77Yael Designs 35, 53Yael Sonia 37, 47, 60Yvel 49Zoltan David 54, 57Zorab 51Zydo 53

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No 291 / Winter - Trends Guide 2011

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CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS Winter Trends Guide 2011