Climberism Magazine Issue #6

Issue 6May | June 2011

climberismTHE NORTHEAST CLIMBING M A G A Z I N E

A MOUNTAIN ALWAYS HIDES ANOTHERVISIT GASHERBRUM I WITH QUEBEC CLIMBER LOUIS ROUSSEAU

SANDBAG HEAVENCONNECTICUT’S RAGGED MOUNTAIN AND THE BAGS FULL OF SAND

THE USEFUL PLAQUETTE | IT WILL GIVE YOU WINGS | NOW & THEN & ADIRONDACK CLIMBING | LOCAL LEGEND

FRITZ WIESSNERREDISCOVERING ANIMPORTANT LEGEND

2 MAGAZINEclimberism | MAY JUNE 2011|

6 LOCALLEGEND//Jeremy“Rowdy”Dowdy ByDavidCrothers

8 HISTORY//RediscoveringFritzWiessner ByNateMcKenzie

14 NOW&THEN//AWalkinthePark ByDavidCrothers

16 GEARTALK//It’sNotJustGossip

18 SANDBAGHEAVEN//ConnecticutClimbing ByMattShove

26 GASHERBRUMI//AQuebecClimber’sStory ByJulianRodier

35 FOODFORCLIMBERS//RedBull ByRyanMcCaffery

ON THE COVER: Rick Kraft plugginginsomebigproafterpullingthroughthecruxofPegasus(5.8+)aclassicConnecticutTraprockrouteatTheCatholeinMeriden,CT.

Photo by: Christopher Beauchamp

http://www.christopherbeauchamp.com

MAY | JUNEINSIDE THE MAG

BRENDAN O’BRIEN BUILDERING NYC STONE // PHOTO BY: RAEFORD DWYERContents

3MAY JUNE 2011| MAGAZINEclimberism | 2011 MAY JUNE|

After stints in the military, the corporate world, and a Zen monastery, Kel began his climbing career in the Pacific Northwest back in the 90’s with a summit of Mt. Adams. Since then he has had the good fortune to climb and guide rock and ice in twelve dif-ferent countries on four continents. Kel also teaches outdoor skills and lead expeditions for many universities and colleges in the north-east.

KelRossiter

Nate teaches climbing courses both indoors and outside, focusing on technique, self-rescue, anchoring and lead climbing. He is certified by the American Mountain Guide Association as a Climbing Wall Instructor (Course Provider) and Single Pitch Instruc-tor. His climbing and backcountry experience ranges from the East to West coast of the U.S. and the Alps in France and Switzerland.

NateMcKenzie

Julian is contemplating changing the name on his birth certificate to “The Muffin Man” for one reason: he deserves the credit. Since leav-ing “the Shire,” his life has become a quest to breathe thin air and travel to remote corners of the globe. You may find Julian hovering over a skillet full of bacon or maybe in your local library. He hopes to someday learn how to burp.

JulianRodier

Matt Shove has climbed, instructed and guided clients into the mountain areas all over the United States, including Central Con-necticut’s Traprock Crags; The Gunks, Ad-irondack’s, Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges. Matt has also conducted on-site safety for film crews in mountainous areas as well as in studios. He has conducted training programs for the US Coast Guard and Department of Homeland Security.

MattShove

MAY | JUNE ISSUEEDITOR David Crothers

ASSISTANT EDITOR Julian Rodier

COPY EDITOR Jarred Cobb

TECHNICAL DIRECTOR James Thompson

GRAPHIC DESIGN Ray Kania & Dick Ritchie

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THE NORTHEAST CLIMBINGclimberism

M A G A Z I N E

CONTRIBUTORS


LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

HAVE you ever struck your axe against ice that

just wouldn’t stick? So rock solid, no matter how hard your tried or how long you took, no ice screw could penetrate it? In high alti-tude, subzero temps, this is just one of the things you can expect to encounter while attempting a winter ascent of a peak in Paki-stan. Louis Rousseau is an accom-plished alpinist from Quebec, he and his team attempted, in alpine style, to establish a new route on Gasherbrum I this past winter. One of the hardest and most dangerous things to do. Because of unpredictable conditions and subzero temperatures, anything that goes wrong can bring devas-tating results. Prior to their attempt, a team of three climbers were the first to climb Gasher-

brum II in the winter, also being the first to summit an 8,000 foot peak in Pakistan during the winter. A major accomplishment that almost cost them their lives. On the way back down to base-camp, exhausted, the team was struck by an avalanche. Luckily they survived and no one was hurt. Rousseau and his team ran into extremely cold conditions, so cold, their lungs felt like they were freezing. Multiple times they had to run out sections of near vertical ice. Because the ice was so hard, protection was nearly impossible. Twice the team had to return to basecamp because the route they were trying to estab-lished did not yield enough flat area to pitch a tent. On their third attempt, the team aban-doned their progression of estab-lishing a new route on Gasher-

brum I and continued their quest for the summit via the Japanese Couloir. Nearly 1000 feet below the summit, the team was once again shutdown by high winds and freezing-cold temperatures. We followed along with Rousseau and his team the entire time they were away. From acclimatizing on Aconcagua in South America, to his flight to Pakistan. When he returned we caught up with him while he rested for his third attempt at summiting K2. We decided not to edit our correspon-dence with Rousseau, his English was not very good, and we thought the dialogue and the language barrier fit well into the style of the article.

-David Crothers

EDITOR’S NOTE

Climber Derek Anderson Pulls Through the Cat’s Ass in Bolton, Vermont // Photo by: David Crothers


How’s it going? I am re-ally impressed with the magazine you guys have put together. Do you have hard copies that you send out?

Sam Swan Rome, NY

Sam, it’s going great and glad you like the mag. We’re working hard, thanks for the support! No hard copies yet, but soon, we hope! We are shooting for 2012, so keep your eyes peeled!

Sweet magazine!!! I’m sharing it with my uni-versity climbing club and they’re getting psyched - we’re hitting up New Hampshire next month!

Liz McFadden Kingston, ON

Canada

Liz, we’re psyched to see our Canadian friends are digging the mag. Send us some pics of your NH adventure, eh?

Thanks for all you do!

Matthew Peterson Boston,

MA

Whoa, thanks for climbing Northeast!

Love the work, glad to see there’s a section for women!

Meagan Henrich St. Agatha,

ON Canada

Meagan, we’ve been seriously slacking on the women’s sec-tion, but we’re trying to step it up and get more of those lady crushers involved with what we are doing. Psyched with the Canadian following!

I love the mag and it keeps me up to date on my first climbing love, The Northeast, while I go on new adventures here in the Front Range.

Jason Antin Denver, CO

Jason, you’re the man. Colo-rado has some great climbing, but can’t really compare to the Northeast. We’ve got it all!

Keep it up guys, you are doing a great job!

Your Grammy New Haven,

CT

Grammy, thanks for writing. Didn’t know you moved to Connecticut...

The letter above was so good and we laughed so hard, we had to run it again. Cheers and thanks to everyone who showed us some love!

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Send your letters to: [email protected]

EDITOR’S NOTE

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DAVID: What’s up with Rowdy Dowdy? Where did the nickname come from and how did you get it?

JEREMY: My last name is Dowdy so Rowdy comes pretty naturally. I guess I am oc-casionally rambunctious, but I’ve had that nickname since I was like twelve years old. As soon as my friends made the con-nection, it never went away, people have been calling me that for years. The funny thing is, from the climbing world per-spective, I have been introduced, thanks to Josh and Ivan, across New England as Rowdy Dowdy. I was just talking to Bayard Russell in New Hampshire and we were laughing because he asked me “does anyone call you Jeremy?” I got introduced to him as Rowdy so he didn’t even know what my first name was. Same thing happened when I was climbing with Russ Clune and he said the same thing “does anyone know your first name?” He knows it because I introduced myself to him as

Jeremy. It’s funny to see how it’s continued on by itself.

DAVID: Any first ascents you want to brag about?

JEREMY: [laughs] The only two first ascents I have developed myself are mixed routes. There is Rainbow Pony, everyone likes to call it, and it’s like an M7. Also, in my huge catalogue of routes is Ghost Wars, it tentatively has got an M9 rating so we’ll see if it holds. Both routes are at Snake Mountain.

DAVID: How about Northeast climbing? Do you have a favorite area?

JEREMY: Man, tough questions, I think I am going to have to say the Adirondacks.

Projecting Bully Wall Halifax, Nova Scotia

JEREMY DOWDY is known by most climbers in the North-east as “Rowdy Dowdy.” His personality radiates energy and it’s hard not to get psyched just talking with him. He is a guy that is just stoked on life and what he’s doing in every moment. Dowdy grew up in the Vergennes area of Vermont, and with his mom work-ing at Middlebury College, he easily found his way to the bouldering gym, where he and his friends would run laps on long jug runs, competing with each other by seeing who could make it the farthest.After leaving the homestead, Dowdy headed to UVM and graduated with what he and the OGE (Outdoor Gear Exchange) crew like to call the “retail” degree, which is also known as an Envi-ronmental Degree. He is newly married, living back in the Vergennes area and working at the OGE as the product manager.

LOCAL LEGEND // JEREMY “ROWDY” DOWDYWritten By: David Crothers //

MAY JUNE 2011| MAGAZINEclimberism | 2011 MAY JUNE| 7MAGAZINEclimberism |

DAVID: Any big plans coming up?

JEREMY: I want to put some routes up, I think I am going to start poking around in the Adirondacks. That’s my big plan, try and get some new lines up. But beside that I am going to Greece with my wife this summer, we are going to do that for our honeymoon, I don’t know how I pulled that off, but yeah we are going there for a couple weeks. [laughs]

DAVID: Any big accomplishments you were psyched about getting?

JEREMY: Well, the Snake Mountain route I was telling you about, Ghost Wars. I was pretty psyched to get that one. But I am pretty good about punting off really hard routes, I could probably give you a list of twenty I’ve left just hanging. So no big numbers for ya [laughs]

DAVID: What does climbing mean to you?

JEREMY: Climbing, for me is all about the great friends, and stories. It’s what has kept me finding ways to keep climbing a part of my life and psyched. It’s why I’m still psyched to get up at three A.M. to drive six hours to get a few pitches in, or save for months to go on a long road trip. It’s not just about the sends, or the potential for new routes, though that certainly is a big part of it. For me its about the great lifestyle climbing affords. On the eve of my 30th birthday I can say most of my friends, and old partners have faded out of the sport. They have jobs, and kids, or all they have migrated to other outdoor “sports” that are easier to fit in to a more “normal life.” Now that I care to think about it, I can trace most of the major decisions in my life to some aspect of my passion for the lifestyle. From where I went to school, where I live, to who I married. And of course, where I work. Working at the Gear Exchange is a huge part of what has helped me stay with climbing. The friends and community there are amazing, and the psyche is high.

Propeller Head V10 // Sustenpass Switzerland

NEVER ENDING STORY (V11) // Magic Wood, Switzerland


HISTORYRediscovering Wiessner’s Traprock Ultra-Classics

Story by: Nate McKenzie


Broadway (5.8) on the Main Cliff at Ragged Mountainphoto by Lourdes Irizarry


Few American climbers have left as lasting and indelible impression on modern traditional climbing as Fritz Wiessner. German born, he immigrated to New York City in the 1920’s, importing his tremendous climbing skills to the burgeoning northeast climbing scene. Among his many accomplishments is the first free ascent of Devils Tower in Wyoming, a 275’, 5.7+ route climbed with only his signature hemp rope and just one piton which he later regretted plac-ing as “unnecessary”. In 1939 Wiessner was first to stand a mere 800ft from the summit apex of K2 in the Karakorum in Pakistan, retreating in deference to the pleas from his friend Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama. The mountain would not see its first complete ascent until 25 years later. Wiessner is credited with “discovering” Gunks climbing and established the areas first route “Old Route” (5.5+) on Millbrook in 1935. He and his close friend, and frequent partner, Hans Kraus went on to establish many bold lines in the Gunks including High Exposure (5.6). The route was thought by many, even today, as one of the finest routes in the world at that grade.

The consummate explorer, Wiessner often focused his atten-tion on the traprock bluffs of Central Connecticut. His bold ascent of the tallest part of Sleeping Giant’s “chin” remained the standard of technical difficulty in American free climb-ing for years to follow. In 1935, Wiessner climbed the wide crack, now known as Vector, at Ragged Mountain, establish-ing the first 5.8 in U.S. history. The country wouldn’t see its first 5.9 until 1958 - some 20+ years later. Moderate by today’s standards, these climbs are still serious leads even with modern dynamic climbing ropes and hyper-engineered, lightweight, traditional protection. These climbs are very accessible and there for all to enjoy thanks to the hard work and stewardship of local access pioneers like the Ragged Mountain Foundation and the Access Fund. When you’re pulling the crux off-width bulge on Ragged Mountain’s Vec-tor or enjoying the airy exposure on the Giant’s Wiessner’s Rib think of old Fritz Wiessner - hemp rope tied to his waist, rope sole shoes, and a few clanking pins over his shoulder. Enjoy the adventure.

AMERICAN LEGEND: FRITZ WIESSNER

(1900-1988)

“Slope-shouldered and stocky, almost without a

waist” the huge grin of Fritz Wiessner. “[His] shape

did not easily disclose [his] strength of arm or cat-

like agility.” “Wiessner might more readily have been

taken for a baker or bartender than a great alpinist.”

– Laura & Guy Waterman: Yankee Rock & Ice


Connecticut has some pretty good rock climbing, actually no, I’m going to say Connecticut has some great rock climbing. Southern New England is far from the worst place a climber could live, in fact, you’d be hard pressed to find a richer history and cast of characters outside Yosemite Valley than we have right here in the Yankee North. Our local guidebooks are filled with names like Wiessner, Underhill, Nichols, Whitney, Wilcox, Barber, Kraus, Adair, and the like. The climbs that follow are far from the most difficult around, but you’ll feel the weight of history and airy exposure on these signature Wiessner first ascents. Lace up those sticky-rubber climbing sneaks, chalk those mitts, and sew up these classic beauties with the finest traditional protection money can buy.

Wiessner’s Rib (5.6) —Sleeping Giant State Park

Whitney, Wilcox, and Underhill were among the now infa-mous early climbers you might have found on the craggy bluffs of Sleeping Giant in the mid-1920’s. Fritz Wiessner upped the ante when he scaled the tallest part of the Sleeping Giant’s “chin” in the early 1930’s thus establishing this classic with some of the best exposure you’ll find at this grade outside the Gunks. The Rib remained the most difficult free climb in the region for nearly a decade after its first ascent.

FA: Fritz Wiessner 1933-1935 Location: Sleeping Giant State Park, Hamden, CT Protection: Standard rack up to 3”

Vector (5.8) Ragged Mountain

An important “first” in American climbing history, Vector was the country’s first 5.8 and remained the most difficult climb in the U.S. for nearly 17 years. The relatively moderate start provides a nice warm-up for the crux off-width bulge near the top. Wiessner accomplished the first ascent after two previous attempts, committing to a bold 20ft+ runout over a single soft-iron piton placed below the bulge.

FA: Fritz Wiessner 1933-1935 Location: Ragged Mountain, Southington, CT Protection: Standard rack up to 2” + optional large (#3 or 4) Camalot for the crux bulge

Carey Corner (5.7) Ragged Mountain

Commonly described as “Amazing,” “Awful,” or “Sandbag,” this is a classic route, albeit difficult. “Amazing, but harder than any 5.9 I’ve ever done” exclaimed one climber. Indeed, many online forums place the consensus grade solidly at 5.8. You won’t know until you try! Brush up on your crack climbing skills and give this beauty a go. Traprock rarely affords a more splitter open-book dihedral, and this one runs for 100 feet of exposed, immaculate stone.

FA: Fritz Wiessner 1933-1935 Location: Ragged Mountain, Southington, CT Protection: Standard Rack up to 3”

A Sampler of Fritz Wiessner Traprock Classics

Kevin Wright on Carey Corner (5.6) on the Main Cliff at Ragged Mountainphoto by Lourdes Irizarry


Visiting Climbers

Just a friendly note from the locals. Access to many of Connecticut’s local crags is prohibited and in several cases threatened. Consult http://raggedmtn.org for current closure status. Help us keep these cliffs open and keep a good reputation with local residents by honoring closures and parking bans. Helmets should be considered required equipment as Traprock faces constantly exfoliate loose rock and sometimes huge blocks. Bring static ropes or trad skills to build top rope anchors and please be kind to the few, small remain-ing trees near the cliff edge. You will not find fixed anchors here. Leaders should be strong for the grades they’re attempting, Traprock often requires creative protection. Many of our local faces were first led with skyhooks and chewing gum. Stay on established trails and be ever vigilant for deer ticks and the insidious toxicodendron radicans (poi-son ivy). “Leaves of three, let it be.”

Local Information

GUIDEBOOK: Rock Climbing Connecticut by David Fasulo, Falcon Press.

LOCAL ACCESS AUTHORITY: Ragged Mountain Foundation www.raggedmtn.org

Kat Remirez approaching the crux of Ragged Mountains Vector (5.8). The first 5.8 in the US.photo by Lourdes Irizarry


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NOW & THEN // A DAY IN THE PARK

ABOVE // DEADWATER’S MAIN CLIFF BELOW // ED PALEN REMINISCING ON BOZEMAN BULLET (5.6)

THE ADIRONDACK STATE PARK ISN’T JUST FULL OF BLACK FLIES, POISON IVY, AND REDNECK’S WITH BIG TRUCKS.

SITUATED IN THE NORTHEAST CORNER OF NEW YORK, THE “DACKS” ARE HOME TO SOME OF THE BEST CLIMBING IN THE REGION, IF NOT THE WORLD. QUIET, REMOTE, AND STILL BE-ING DISCOVERED, A VISIT TO THE PARK WOULD BE ENOUGH TO GET ANY CLIMBER JONE-SING FOR MORE. THE QUALITY AND THE SHEER NUMBER OF CLIMBS ARE REASON ALONE TO SPEND A LIFETIME EX-PLORING SUCH A HISTORIC AREA.


In 2001, while cross country skiing across Deadwater Pond, Ed Palen saw a cliff in the

distance. Suspecting not much would come of the discovery, he didn’t return until 2002 with climbing partner Bob Starinsky. Amazed at what they saw, the two climbers, among others, used car jacks, and pressure wash-ers, cleaning off almost two feet of moss and using the car jacks to pull trees from cracks on routes like “Space Cowboy,” an intimidat-ing ninety foot 5.7. Years later and a decade after it’s discovery, new routes are still being established and added to the cliff.

Recently a couple friends and I made the drive across the lake, touring south and catching the free Crown Point ferry while the bridge is being reconstructed. A break from the torrential downpours in the region was in the forecast and all we needed to get motivated.

With it’s quality climbs directly in the sun, and easy approach, Deadwater was the crag of choice, though standing at it’s base, our prospects weren’t looking good. The over-hang rock on the first pitch of Tombstone (5.10) was dripping with water. Rounding the corner and still soaked, we hopped on the “Bozemen Bullet,” the first route established in the area by Ed Palen and Bob Starinsky. An amazing 5.6 that climbs a steep face with nice movements to the prominent arete. It’s sandwiched between “The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly,” and “Geronimo,” which are both 5.8’s worth exploration.

By the time all of us had run a lap, the rock was dry, the sun was breaking the clouds and to our surprise, Ed and Steve, the stone masters themselves, showed up and gave us a little history lesson on the area.

Additionally, all you’ll ever need to know about Adirondack climbing can be found in the latest version of Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas’ Adirondack Rock guidebook and at www.adirondackrock.com.

A DAY IN THE PARK // NOW & THEN

ABOVE // DREW KOFF CLIPPING PROTECTION ON BOZEMAN BULLET (5.6)


GEAR TALK

If you’re one of those adventurous climbers that heads for the top without knowing what lies ahead, the Wild Country Elite Syncro Harness is for you. Boast-ing enough racking power to tame any amount of gear, this harness will get you to the top of any route, without a doubt, with everything you need. Ultra comfortable, and easily adjustable, you could sleep in this thing hanging from the side of your big wall jour-ney and not lose blood flow to your legs. Integrated ice screw holders, haul loop, quick clip leg loops, and the list goes on. Load up with quickdraws, stack your double rack, pile on ice screws; this harness will do just about everything except make babies...

Wild Country Elite Syncro // Climbing Harness

Red Chili Matador VCR // Climbing Shoe

GEAR TALK|

A design masterpiece, the Matador is Red Chili’s advanced shoe made for aggressive sport climbing and bouldering. The down-turned toe design is built for muscle-grinding power and the synthetic upper hardly stretches, making the shoe fit like a glove and stay that way. Great for small holds on steep terrain, the Matador will rip apart any proj. Bonus! The toe rubber and a sensitive midsole will help you stick to the wall like an Italian spider monkey running from a street full of bulls. The Matadors will be your best friend when running laps on your latest micro proj-ect in the vertical world. No bull!

what we’ve been using ^̂^̂

“it ’s not just gossip”

MAY JUNE 2011| MAGAZINEclimberism | 2011 MAY JUNE|

GEAR TALKTHE ACCESS PAGE

Ragged Mountain Foundation

C3PAClimbing Conservency of Central Pennsylvania


SANDBAGHEAVEN

STORY BY MATT SHOVE

As I refl ect on my many days spent cragging at Ragged Mountain, I often remember the comments I have heard about climbing in Connecticut. On top of Intersection Rock in Joshua Tree it was ‘where?’ On Crimson Chrysalis they said ‘there’s climbing in Connecti-cut?’ On Dinner Ledge on Washington Column, it was ‘why would anyone climb there when you could climb here?’ At the base of the Nose, I saw some rolled eyes. But best of all I was pulling out of the Devil’s Tower climber’s park-ing lot, on our way to the Tetons’ when

a car pulled up next to my wife and me. They saw our Connecticut plates and said ‘so, you’re from Connecticut’ “Yes!’ I replied...” Do you know that asshole bolt chopper guy?’

Ragged Mountain is part of central Con-necticut’s Traprock region. The dark brown gritty stone is usually blasted into ¾ inch gravel for use in road beds and placed under sidewalks to prevent heav-ing. I could go on about the Mesozoic Era, and the Triassic period, sea fl oors, mechanisms, and mid ocean ridges but

I won’t. Here’s the quick and dirty. The Traprock crags are ancient lava beds. Many moons ago, a long central rift valley was formed by an under-sea volcano. The lava cooled, hardend, and then withstood the erosive quality of time. The hard, dense metamorphic lava beds were then exposed to what we now see as north-south ridges and craggy outcroppings, sometimes referred

Above: Stacy Kellogg-Shove on Broadway (5.8)Photo by Matt Shove

MAY JUNE 2011| MAGAZINEclimberism | 2011 MAY JUNE|

Main Cliff at Ragged Mountainphoto by Matt Shove


Joe Vitti on YMC (5.9)photo by Chad Hussey

to as the Hanging Hills. Systematic and Columnar joints have framed our climb-ing routes. These joints are the sustained vertical and horizontal cracks we climb. If your are a budding geologist, you should know that Ragged’s Traprock is a com-bination of basalt, grabbo and dolerite. Another thing, I wish I hadn’t waited until my senior year in college to take Geology 101.

By the early 1930’s, climbers who had immigrated from Europe began to poke around these little cliff lines. In European tradition, climbing and alpinism is part of the local culture. Small towns and villages are tucked into steep craggy valleys that are capped by alpine peaks. Climbing was simply sport; something to do on a Sunday afternoon. These European climbers brought their passion for climbing to Ragged Mountain, and in the process, inspired many others to take up the sport. While some of these local explor-ers trained at Ragged for major ascents in the greater ranges, many aspiring climbers have learned to climb here for over 80 years.

Similar to many places throughout the world, climbers learn their craft on small local outcrops before applying their skills in the mountains. This activity attracted folks from the Yale Mountaineering Club, whose members have left their mark as well. One notable tidbit is that the use of nuts, or nut slings, was practiced here before modern hard steel pitons were invented. This protection style has con-tinued to shape the traditional ethic that still holds true to this day. John Reppy spent time climbing on Great Britain’s Grit, noting that on that side of the pond, bolt and piton protection is used sparingly. Clean climbing techniques had been used for years in the UK to protect the finite cragging resources. Reppy brought these clean climbing tools and techniques back here, and the style has remained true


to this day While some Ragged ascents have been completed with bolts drilled on the lead, and hooks placed over ledges, they are not the norm here.

The Main Cliff at Ragged Mountain is the main attraction. It is about 100 feet tall and more than a quarter mile long. I remember my fi rst trip there as a 17 year old like it was yesterday. Steep and intimidating, long and sustained, we climbed Wet Wall. 5.6 should be easy, but we were at Ragged. I had to earn every inch. The awkward start, the long reach to the jug, the wide fl ake halfway up, the rest ledge. I did think about belaying at the rest ledge. I was scared and tired. I continued on though. The steep top out still gets my attention when the wind whips up, and I can still hear the hex nuts clanking like cow-bells. My buddy Alain was here for a few days last spring, and he told me that he had forgotten how intimidating this place was. On a route like this 5.6, one can begin to appreciate what climbing here is like. It’s is steep and sustained. The vertical cracks intermingle with delicate face holds that unlock fantastic climbing sequences, the black patina providing little crispy edges for fi ngers and toes.

The reality is that the climbers I have met in other places have never been here. Our routes can be fun or frustrat-ing, strait forward or devious, strenuous or delicate (or both!). And, rest assured, they will be challenging. You might fi nd yourself facing a sequence of thin face climbing on Vanishing Point, getting lured into the wide on Carey Corner, or possibly stymied by the tricky crux gear on YMC. Mostly, you’ll be amazed that Fritz Weissner did Vector in 1935, be-cause back then, it was the hardest route in the country at 5.8. Today, with a rack of cams, a padded harness, and the best sticky rubber shoes known to man, it actually feels more like 5.9. I like to

think that all of his training in Dresden, Germany has led us down a proud path. Weissner took his skill set to most of the major climbing areas in the United States, leaving his mark most notably at Devil’s Tower, the Gunks, and on K2. Some of the corner systems at Ragged’s Main Cliff remarkably resemble individ-ual pitches of routes at Devil’s Tower.

On any given weekend, you can fi nd the cliff strung with top ropes from one end to the other. Climbers like getting a pump in, and we like to socialize. What

we often forget is that Ragged has a strong and proud history written on the sharp end. Weissner, Whitney, Gilman, Kor, Reppy, Barber, Webster, House and Streibert have all left their mark here. They all started from the bottom, and fi nished on top, without resorting to pulling on their gear, or hanging on the rope. They say Weissner did the FA on Vector with only one piton for protec-tion. Often, visiting climbers or insur-gent sprayers on the web say that we should be transforming Ragged to meet the modern day. They say add bolts,

Chad Hussey on Bombay Indirect (5.9+)photo by Bob Clark

make it ‘safe’, etc. Luckily for me, I still see a few locals keeping the traditional style alive.

You will see Chad on Bombay Indirect, a marvelous traverse that you can’t comprehend from the ground. You might see Bobbo on the Prince. It’s 5.9 +, but it’s full value and has special gear needed to boot. It requires a fi ne mind, calmness, almost in a meditative state. A position that forces one to dig deep as you launch into the crux. You might fi nd Mike on Faceout, a nice route at 5.8, but full of hocus pocus gear. A little to the right, you might fi nd Jeff leading Broadway. It’s a bit harder now that a big hold has broken off the lower crux. Anne might be found taking a lap up YMC. YMC is THE 5.9 to do on this side of the cliff. Face climbing leads to the best jam crack that ends abruptly at an overhang. The next move will get your attention as you fi ddle in a little

wire, and stretch up to the fl ake, on your tiptoes, hoping you don’t stretch too far. Bob and Lisa are often found on Unconquerable Crack, a steep line with more than ample protection. It begins in a steep little hollow, with fl ake underclings and jams that lead to an off width. At the top of this wide section lies the crux. Worth noting is Subline, and if I could get past the start, I would tell you what it’s like. (It might be bet-ter to ask Bob and Lisa). I have come to appreciate Carey Corner. It’s a bottom-less left facing corner, it’s in the shade, and it’s a perfect splitter. It eats gear. It’s got great jams, some good footholds right where you need them, and on some days, it feels desperate. Dave says some people love it and others loathe it. What makes these routes so classic is that the crux sequences lie at the top. Sustained climbing leads you to a physi-cal and mental challenge. You need to be sure to save some for the exit.

These classic routes deserve to be lead. You might fi nd yourself starting off on 100 feet of your own little adventure. I’m not a beta guy; I don’t like getting blasted with it. When I’m up there, I’m immersed in 100 feet of big adventure. I would encourage you to do the same. Just imagine what our climbing pioneers must have felt. Let those emotions run rampant and you might never look at our little crag the same again. Come for a visit, its suburban cragging at its best. It really is our very own little piece of heaven.

STATS:

Owner: Ragged Mountain Foundation www.raggedmtn.org

Location: Southington, CT

Guidebook: Connecticut Rock Climbing by David Fasulo

Knight’s Move (5.4)photo by Matt Shove

MAY JUNE 2011|22 MAGAZINEclimberism |

make it ‘safe’, etc. Luckily for me, I still see a few locals keeping the traditional style alive.

You will see Chad on Bombay Indirect, a marvelous traverse that you can’t comprehend from the ground. You might see Bobbo on the Prince. It’s 5.9 +, but it’s full value and has special gear needed to boot. It requires a fi ne mind, calmness, almost in a meditative state. A position that forces one to dig deep as you launch into the crux. You might fi nd Mike on Faceout, a nice route at 5.8, but full of hocus pocus gear. A little to the right, you might fi nd Jeff leading Broadway. It’s a bit harder now that a big hold has broken off the lower crux. Anne might be found taking a lap up YMC. YMC is THE 5.9 to do on this side of the cliff. Face climbing leads to the best jam crack that ends abruptly at an overhang. The next move will get your attention as you fi ddle in a little

wire, and stretch up to the fl ake, on your tiptoes, hoping you don’t stretch too far. Bob and Lisa are often found on Unconquerable Crack, a steep line with more than ample protection. It begins in a steep little hollow, with fl ake underclings and jams that lead to an off width. At the top of this wide section lies the crux. Worth noting is Subline, and if I could get past the start, I would tell you what it’s like. (It might be bet-ter to ask Bob and Lisa). I have come to appreciate Carey Corner. It’s a bottom-less left facing corner, it’s in the shade, and it’s a perfect splitter. It eats gear. It’s got great jams, some good footholds right where you need them, and on some days, it feels desperate. Dave says some people love it and others loathe it. What makes these routes so classic is that the crux sequences lie at the top. Sustained climbing leads you to a physi-cal and mental challenge. You need to be sure to save some for the exit.

These classic routes deserve to be lead. You might fi nd yourself starting off on 100 feet of your own little adventure. I’m not a beta guy; I don’t like getting blasted with it. When I’m up there, I’m immersed in 100 feet of big adventure. I would encourage you to do the same. Just imagine what our climbing pioneers must have felt. Let those emotions run rampant and you might never look at our little crag the same again. Come for a visit, its suburban cragging at its best. It really is our very own little piece of heaven.

STATS:

Owner: Ragged Mountain Foundation www.raggedmtn.org

Location: Southington, CT

Guidebook: Connecticut Rock Climbing by David Fasulo

Knight’s Move (5.4)photo by Matt Shove

23MAY JUNE 2011 MAGAZINEclimberism | 2011 MAY JUNE|

Mike Lackman on Owl’s Perch (5.8+)photo by Mike Cox

24

Dylan Allwine on Left Route (5.11+) in Rines Hill, New Durham, NHPhoto By: Patrick Donahue

MAGAZINEclimberism | 2011 MAY JUNE| 25 2011 MARCH APRIL| MAGAZINEclimberism |

Jeff WeberBozeman Bullet (5.6)Photo By: David Crothers

26

A Mountain Always Hides

Another Mountain


Another Mountain

MAGAZINEclimberism | 2011 MAY JUNE|


Another Mountain


Another Mountain

Louis Rousseau, a high altitude climber from Quebec, lives a life on the edge. Lately he’s been attempting some of the world’s toughest mountains by unclimbed routes. Not to mention Louis and his team are doing this all in the middle of the winter, a season usually left for the burliest of climbers. Here’s a glimpse into Louis’ life as he returns home from a grueling trip to Gasherbrum I…

How long have you been climbing for? I started rock climbing and ice climbing at 15 years old. My mother thought it was a good sport for me, no real competition, no violence, cooperation, problem solving, sense of responsibility, adventure, traveling and possibility of working. At 18 I worked in summer camps and taught rock climbing. At 19 I worked in outdoor shops to pay for my university expenses.

What are some of your greatest climbing accomplishments? With four friends from Austria, I climbed a new route on Nanga Parbat in alpine style in 2009. In the same season, I made an attempt on K2 and reached 8365m. Deep snow and avalanche danger forced us back down after the Bottleneck and the traverse.

What are you up to now that you are home? My priority is spending quality time with my wife and my friends. I’m also planning some lectures and I’m trying to find another sponsor for my next summer project. I’m also starting my rock climbing season, but it is so hard because I was in Pakistan all winter, I lost so much weight, especially muscles. My wife laughed when she saw me, she said that I have a huge head compared to my body.

How do you train for high altitude climbing when you are home? Very similar to marathon training, so I’m doing long runs and interval training sessions. I’m doing a lot of steep trail running and lots of stairs. In Montreal, we have a small hill called Mont-Royal in the center of the city, it is very beautiful. I always go there for trail running and I’m looking for the steepest trail to do my interval session. The goal is to heighten my VO2 Max capacity and the key is doing interval. Training with people that are way stronger than you is also a good idea.

How long have you been thinking about climbing the world’s tallest peaks in the middle of winter? We started planning Gasherbrum I winter expedition 2011 when we came back from Nanga Parbat and K2 in September 2009, but I’ve thought about climbing in winter for a long time. I was fascinated about winter climbing, but I wanted to try something different, climbing a technical route in winter. I think I got a good taste of it.

“Night was falling and extreme cold came fast. The pitch ended nowhere”

MAGAZINEclimberism | 2011 MAY JUNE|

You have just returned from an epic winter attempt on Gasherbrum I in Pakistan. How did it go? It was very hard, much harder compared to what I have done so far. Difficult physically and psychologically. I knew the route was technical, but not technical like this. The approach to reach the base camp of G1 had never been done by foot during winter; it took us 8 days to reach the base of the mountain. We arrived at the end of January 2011. We spent more than 50 days in base camp. On the South face of G1, we opened more than 1700m of new technical ground. Very steep and

hard ice (I was unable the put ice protection to secure our ascent because ice was solid like iron) stopped our progression at around 6750m. We came back to base camp. We tried another summit push in alpine style by the Japanese Couloir on the other side of the mountain. We reached 7050m but strong wind (more than 90kmh at 7000m) forced us back down. We left base camp on the first day of spring (March 21, 2011). We fought hard until the end. I came back home very disappointed, but I have no regrets, absolutely no regrets!


Your best moment climbing? Your worst moment climbing? Best moment was just being there climbing with my teammates Alex Txikon (Spain) and Gerfried Goeschl (Austria). Even though it was very difficult, we had a great time, everything was perfect with them. I miss them so much now. My worst moment is, of course, when we went down the new route. We were so close to reaching the summit ridge. Another worst moment is when I lead a hard pitch around 6200m. Night was falling and extreme cold came fast. The pitch ended nowhere, I did a route finding mistake. Coming down from this pitch in the dark on a precarious piece of gear was frightening.

What was the most important thing you learned on the trip? On a Karakoram winter climbing trip, always bring with you new ice screws, the best you can find on the market. Ice is simply too hard. Unsharpened ice screws don’t work!

What is it like establishing a new route on such a massive mountain? It is the best feeling ever, every step is new, you don’t know what will happen next, what you will discover on the next pitch, you decide where to go, it is really unpredictable, just real adventure… Every pitch become important and you forget the summit by focusing on climbing. What can be better than this? It is exactly the same feeling when you start climbing. For me, it was new and exhilarating!

At what point did you know you had to turn around? When I had no fun anymore and vision of an accident came very clear. Just before going down, I remember that the little voice inside me shouted very loud “Louis stop!!!” every time I put one more crampon above the other one. It was not worth it.

Will you go back for another try in the future? 100% sure, we want to finish this great route. I don’t know when we will return. Very soon I guess!

What was your favorite activity to pass time in your tent? On G1, for me it was learning and doing movie editing. But normally during expedition, I read a lot.


Explain what it feels like climbing up to the Bottleneck on K2. I’m saying this with all the humility I’m capable of. I just want to be honest. I lead and fixed the traverse after the Bottleneck in 2009. It was very high, over 8300m, weather was perfect, but ice condition was terrible. Blue hard explosive ice for ice axe and deep unstable snow for the feet. I needed all my cardio capacity. When I reached the other side of the traverse, I was completely toasted. During the lead, I guess I was completely focused on what I was doing. It is very strange; I don’t remember having very strong emotions like fear or excitement. I probably used only the rational side of my brain. Doing exactly the same movement when I’m going ice climbing during the weekend. Yes, I remember that I was below the gigantic serac, but I tried to make it as fast as possible to get out of that dangerous section.

You have climbed all over the world, but you call Quebec home…Where is your favorite place to climb when you have time at home? Cannon cliff (New Hampshire), Charlevoix region near Quebec City and anywhere with good partners…

What do you miss most about home when you are gone on expeditions? My wife and the complicity we have together of course, but I also miss all the accommodations of my home like cold clean water, hot shower, toilet seat, espresso coffee, cold milk for cereal, cheap internet, clean clothes every day, etc.

What are your plans for this summer? Are you training for another trip? Yes. Next summer (June to August 2011) I will attempt to climb a new route on K2 with Gerfried Goeschl and Alex Txikon. We start June 12, 2011.

Most crucial piece of gear? Sharp ice screws! Haha, now it is like an obsession…


GUIDE DEVICES

IN A CREVASSE RESCUE SYSTEM: Using a plaquette eliminates the need for a friction hitch brake in mechanical advantage hauling systems used for crevasse rescue. The configuration is the exact same as in the previous photo, only you’re on a snowfield…and your “second” is in a crevasse…

Having just shared this bit of info with you, now is the time for my unabashed plug for appropriate instruction: People won’t hesitate to call an electrician when their circuit is fried or to call a physical therapist when they need some muscle healing—but for some strange reason many people have a pretty DIY attitude toward climbing. Use columns like these to advance your climbing toolkit, but don’t overlook and undervalue the power of skilled instruction.You’ll appreciate the outcome—and guides will appreciate the money for pizza!

Kel Rossiter is the owner/lead guide of Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences. Kel combines climbing and instruction with a doctoral degree in Educational Leadership from the University of Vermont and Rock Guide Certification from the American Mountain Guide Association. Check out the guiding and instruction he offers at www.adventurespiritguides.com

Why will guides pay $10 more for a ‘guide’ belay device instead of the standard belay

tube?” The answer is “Versatility.” Guide devices—or “plaquettes”—like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Reverso 3 have applications useful to an array of climbers in a spectrum of situations far beyond top roping—though there is an astounding amount of climbers using it solely as a belay tube.

TECH TIP

AS A QUICK ASSIST FOR A SECOND: If you’re out climbing with a friend who might need a little boost now and then through a crux, configure the plaquette as follows: Whenever your second needs an assist, you can simply lean back against the anchor and provide them a body-weight assist.

AS A HANDS-FREE BELAY: Incredibly, many people I see on multi-pitch climbs use their plaquette in the standard tube mode, either going right off the harness or redirecting the belay off their harness and through the anchor. This defeats a primary advantage of plaquettes—the hands-free capacity. The appropriate way to use a plaquette is as follows:

Some climbers seem to fear that attaching the belay directly to the anchor is risky, because they think it’ll stress the anchor more. First off, if your anchor is so mank that you are afraid to connect your follower directly to it, you should probably be rope soloing—don’t involve someone else in your tragedy. Secondly, it actually stresses the anchor less than a redirect. While there are situations in which attaching the device directly to the harness might make sense, for the most part this is silly.

AS A FULL-ON HAUL THROUGH A DIFFICULT SECTION (OR OVERHANG): There are lots of great climbs out there that would be moderate if not for a section or two of devilishness. Even if your second isn’t a devilish climber, you can still scale these routes using the plaquette as a quick-haul system. Essentially you create a quick 3:1 haul system using the plaquette as your brake. Also keep this technique in mind also if your second falls out into space on an overhang and can’t get back to the cliff.

Q: “What’s the difference between a guide and a large cheese pizza?”A: “A large cheese pizza can feed a family of four.”

So goes the joke about finances in the guiding profession. But if that’s the difference, a question still remains…


ARMEDAND DANGEROUS,

AND OFF MY MEDICA-

TION (5.10b) One of the better 5.10’s in Rumney and should not be missed if you’re climbing in the 5.10 grade. Climb the first bulge easily and move toward the second bulge (crux); a difficult move will pull you over and to the overhanging jug haul. Full steam ahead, or get zapped before you reach the anchors. The route finishes on good holds to the anchor. Ten draws gets you to the top. Established by Tom Bowker in 1990 with a direct finish added in 1994 by Glen Cilley.

CLUSTERPHOBIA(5.10d)

Has the same start as META-

MORPHOSIS and is just to right of ARMED AND DANGEROUS. Move up through easy terrain and head toward the left-facing corner. Climb left to the overhang and follow the chalk through cruxy holds. I’ve taken plenty of whippers on this route, trying to dial in a sequence that works for me. Shorter climbers should be prepared for dynamic moves. The best part of this climb is the technical overhang; any fall leaves you hanging in space. At one point this route was climbed on uninspiring gear. Now rigged with seven bolts, you’ll likely have to take a number and wait in line. First climbed by Mark Sprague in 2005

METAMORPHOSIS (5.8) another great route to tick off and another route that was

established on sketchy gear. It has since been upgraded with ten bolts and is a nice warm up for the first two climbs. Follow the obvious crack and climb to-ward the left-facing corner, climb right and up the steep wall on good holds. Use a 60 meter rope on this climb, any-thing shorter, you’ll likely run your rope through your belay device and cause an accident. Established by Ted Hammond in 1982.

The newest edition of Ward Smith’s Rumney guidebook is your best tool for those looking to explore these climbs.

ROUTE BETA

FEATURED ROUTES

RUMNEY, NEW HAMPSHIRE (LEFT SIDE OF MAIN CLIFF) // ARMED AND DANGEROUS


THISSTORYCOULDBEWRITTENINTWOBOOKS.ONEBEINGTHESTORYOFCLIFBARINCFROMIT’SINCEPTIONTOIT’SNOWOUTDATED2004PUBLICATION.THEOTHERBEINGTHE

BUSINESSPHILOSOPHYTHATCLIFBARINCANDIT’SCREATOR/FOUNDER/OWNER/MASTERMINDSTRIVESTOLIVEUPTO.EXCEL-LENTLYMIXED,BOTHSTORIESCONSTANTLYBUILDOFFONEAN-OTHERANDSUCCESSFULLYPORTRAYASTORYWORTHTELLING.

I’MNOTATALLABUSINESSPERSON,SOIENJOYEDTHESTORYOFCLIFBARINCMORETHANIDIDTHEPHILOSOPHIESGOVERNINGIT,BUTTHEYWERESTILLVERYINTERESTINGTOREADANDPONDER.NOWIWONDERWHYMORECOMPANIESDON’TSHARESIMILARAT-TITUDES(WHICHYOU’LLHAVETOREADTOFINDOUT).THEMOSTINNOVATIVETHINGABOUTRAISINGTHEBARISTHEDESIGN.THEBOOKISPRINTEDINBLACKINKASYOUWOULDEXPECT,WITHBITSOFREDALLTHROUGHOUT.THEREDINKHIGHLIGHTSTITLES,SUM-MARIES,PHOTOS,LOGOS,ETC.THEREAREMOREEXCITINGDESIGNELEMENTSINSIDETHATREALLYMAKETHEBOOKFUN,UNIQUETOREAD,ANDJUSTTOLOOKAT.

THISISNOTACLIMBINGBOOK,HOWEVER,THETOPICISCOVERED.CLIFBARSUPPORTSTHECLIMBINGCOMMUNITYALONGWITHVARIOUSOTHEROUTDOORCOMMUNITIES.BESIDES,HOWMANYOFUSCLIMBERSCANREALLYSAYWEDON’TBRINGACLIFBARTOTHECRAG?GREATSTORY,GREATIDEAS,ANDFUNTOLOOKAT,RAISINGTHEBAR,WELLYOUKNOWTHEPUNIWASGOINGTOMAKE.

Raising the Bar: The Story of Clif Bar Inc

In American Rock: Region, Rock, and Culture in American Climbing, Don Mellor, a professional climbing guide and instructor for more than 20 years, surveys the history of the

sport in the U.S. If you’re looking for a nice refresher on Amer-ica’s top climbing destinations and history, this book is for you. Divided up by region, American Rock covers the sandstone of Zion to unique formations at The New and begins with a stellar couple chapters on the White Mountains and the Adirondacks. For climbing newbie or climbing yoga, American Rock could be a great way to ignite or rekindle that relationship with American climbing. It is more than just a buck it’s an honest

American Rock

THE LIBRARY


RED BULL is kind of like Jack Daniels; you’re never really that excited to drink it, but sometimes you have to swig it down.

On your way to the crag and hun-gover from the night before? No worries. Red Bull will keep you fully conscious and unable to sleep those bad night decisions off.

You ever shot gun a beer? Yeah of course, me too. You ever shot-gun a Red Bull? Hell No! That’s just insane. Remember that stuff called Four Locos? (I’m talking about the old stuff, not the new rip-off) The main ingredient which caused so much controversy was Taurine. It’s the “upper” that allows Red Bull to give you those wings they keep talking about (especially when you mix it with Vodka,) and nine times out of ten, every bar black-out, starts mostly from drinking Red

Bull and Vodka. Well at least for me that’s been the case.

On a brighter note, Red Bull is an essential part of every man’s suc-cess. It’s good on a first date, for driving long hours to the crag, staying up late for no reason, skid-ding your bike and even baking, yes baking. Cup cakes, carrot cakes, pancakes, pretty much any kind of cake. (doesn’t work well with pie for some reason, don’t ask).

I could keep going and going, prob-ably because I ended up finishing that tester red bull. But seriously this stuff will make you do crazy things faster!

Ryan McCaffery is a lonely young man who still lives with his parents. He currently has a case of Red Bull in his car and hasn’t slept for twelve...

Ifyou’veeverputyourtonguetoabatterythen

youarealltoofamiliarwiththetasteofRedBull,but

don’tgetmewrong,it’snotallthatbad.It’skindoflike

describingbadpizza,orbadsex,Imean,it’snotreally

bad,it’sjustnotgood.Thiscomesfromtwopeople,

thatwhentheystarteddrinkingRedBull,they

hatedit.JakeListandmy-self,RyanMcCaffreytastetestedtheenergysolution

andbothadmitthatwenowenjoythedrink,evenifit

doestastelikebatteryacid.

FOOD FOR CLIMBERS

INGREDIENTS // WINGS


CLIMBERISM MAGAZINEEmile Mennin Working Sinister 6000 (5.13d)Rumney, New Hampshire

Documents

Climberism Magazine Issue #6