CODE of COLOR - L'anza Healing Haircare · CODE of COLOR. TABLE OF CONTENTS COLOR THEORY Color Perception ... guests usually notice gold and red tones. It also explains why red color

CODE of COLOR

TABLE OF CONTENTS

COLOR THEORYColor PerceptionThe Color Wheel

The Language Of Hair Color

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ANATOMYThe Anatomy Of HairHair Strand Growth

Hair Strand AbundanceHair Strand FormationHair Strand ColorationHair Strand Condition

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HAIR COLOR TECHNOLOGYHair Color Chemical AttributesHair Color Developer AttributesChoosing And Understanding

Color Systems

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THE MECHANICS OF SUCCESS The L’ANZA Healing Color Mechanics Of Success

Understanding L’ANZA Healing ColorsSuccessful Color Formulation

Conducting A Patch TestPreparing The Hair For A Color Service

Corrective ColorPost Color Services

COLOR THEORY

Color Perception–

The Color Wheel–

The Language of Hair Color

COLOR PERCEPT IONThe human eye interprets color in a unique way. Our perception of color is ruled by light wavelengths, and how they absorb or reflect from a surface. Our eyes are sensitive to light, so color perception depends on how individual light wavelengths react to a surface, creating visible light. Humans see hair color based on how individual light wavelengths are absorbed or reflect from each hair strand.

WHITE L IGHT SPECTRUMThe electromagnetic spectrum of light that passes through our atmosphere is known as the visible (or white light) spectrum. The white light spectrum is a combination of all visible saturated color wavelengths the human eye and brain can distinguish. Black is a total absence of light.

L IGHT WAVELENGTHS & COLORThe visible spectrum corresponds directly to individual light wavelengths, ranging from 400 to 700 nanometers (nm), and a color range of violet through dark red. Every surface absorbs, diffuses, combines and/or reflects each light wavelength, enabling the human eye and brain to perceive color.

With up to a 700 nm wavelength range, dark red is longest. As red dominates all other wavelengths, the human eye is naturally drawn to red (or warmth). This is why salon guests usually notice gold and red tones. It also explains why red color seems to fade more quickly than other tones; the loss of those light wavelengths has a more dramatic visual impact.

At 400 nm, violet has the shortest wavelength, and the human eye has a struggle seeing lighter levels that are cooler. Based on this simple fact, a colorist must be more “aggressive” with decolorizer, prior to applying a glaze to refine warmth.

COLOR THEORY

Color Perceptions

Wavelength & Color

THE COLOR WHEELAs with art, hair color formulation and final results are ruled by the color wheel. We use three categories to formulate color. These categories help determine tonal value (warm or cool): Primary, Secondary and Tertiary.

PRIMARY COLORThere are three primary colors on the color wheel: Warm Yellow, Cool Blue andWarm Red. Primary colors are pure and cannot be produced by combining othercolors. The color wheel range then expands through the combination of two primary colors in various percentages. The only exception to this is neutral (or brown), which is a combination of all three primary colors in balanced percentages, depending on their saturation level (dark to light).

SECONDARY COLORThere are three secondary colors an equal blend of two primary colors.

TERT IARY COLORThere are six tertiary colors on the color wheel created by an equal blend of one primary and one secondary color.

COLOR THEORY

Color Wheel

Yellow / Green = 75% Yellow + 25% Blue (Yellow + Green)Blue / Green = 75% Blue + 25% Yellow (Blue + Green)Blue / Violet = 75% Blue + 25% Red (Blue + Violet)Red / Violet = 75% Red + 25% Blue (Red + Violet)Red / Orange = 75% Red + 25% Yellow (Red + Orange)

Yellow / Orange = 75% Yellow + 25% Red (Yellow + Orange)

Green = 50% Yellow + 50% Blue

Violet = 50% Blue + 50% Red

Orange = 50% Red + 50% Yellow

ENHANCING COLORTo intensify or magnify a color, add more of the desired tone. For example, if you want to make Red / Violet appear more red (warm)… Add red to your formula. If you want to make Blue / Green appear more green (cool)… Add green (yellow + blue) to your formula.

NEUTRAL IZ ING COLORIn the event you would like to neutralize (or counteract) a color, use the comple-mentary color located directly across the color wheel. For example, to neutralize orange, you would add blue to your formula. Visualize bringing two complementary colors to an even balance, creating neutral (balanced parts yellow, blue and red).

THE LANGUAGE OF HA IR COLORUnderstanding the language of hair color is the key to simplified formulation and exceptional results. There are three primary terms used when discussing hair color:

Hue – This is the name of a color - red, brown, blonde…etc.

Saturation – This is the amount of absorption, or depth of lightness or darkness (levels 1 through 10).

Tone – This is the combination of light wavelengths that reflect from the hair strand (violet through dark red) creating color.

COLOR THEORY

NATURAL HA IR STRAND LEVEL & UNDERTONEAs discussed earlier in this manual, hair level is determined by the saturation (or depth) of lightness and darkness. Each level of saturation in the natural hair strand reveals its melanin tone referred to as undertone. The undertone of the natural hair strand is revealed when lifting color to a higher (or lighter) level and must be considered in every color formulation.

When lifting (lightening) the hair strand, the undertone is exposed at each level. As the wavelength of light shifts with each level, so does the perception of warmth. This is caused by more red and fewer violet light wavelengths reflecting from the hair strand at each level. The most dramatic example of this is the visual warmth revealed at level 7 and above. The measurement of saturation level (dark to light) remains consistent - only the tone shifts as levels change. There may, however, be a slight variation of tone at each level based on the hair strands concentration of eumelanin or pheomelanin. This phenomenon presents slight variation, but the exposed undertone remains in the same range referenced below.

LEVEL & UNDERTONENEUTRALIZING

BASELEVEL

10987654321

DESCRIPTION UNDERTONE EXPOSEDWHEN LIFTING

Very Light Blonde

Light Blonde

Medium Blonde

Dark Blonde

Light Brown

Medium Brown

Dark Brown

Brown/Black

Dark Brown/Black

Black

Pale Yellow

Yellow

Yellow – Orange

Orange

Red – Orange

Red

Red Violet

Violet

Blue Violet

Blue

Violet

Violet

Blue – Violet

Blue

Blue – Green

Green

Yellow – Green

NONE

NONE

NONE

COLOR THEORY

ANATOMY

The Anatomy Of Hair–

Hair Strand Growth–

Hair Strand Abundance–

Hair Strand Formation–

Hair Strand Coloration–

Hair Strand Condition

THE ANATOMY OF HA IR Humans grow hair everywhere on the body, except on the soles of our feet, the palms of our hands and our eyelids (with the exception of our eyelashes). Like skin, our hair is a stratified squamous keratinized epithelium made of multi-layered flat cells whose rope-like filaments provide structure and strength to the hair strand.

Ha i r S t rand Compos i t i onHuman hair is comprised of six key components that provide overall health and manageability.

70-80 % Pro te in Keratinized Protein creates strength and resilience in hair 10-15% Moisture Natural moisture softens hair and adds flexibility3-6% Lipid Oils Lipids keep hair soft and supple1% Pigment The natural melanin pigments in hair absorb UV light and add color.05-.5% Minerals Minerals are residual elements in hair.1-.5% Carbohydrates Carbohydrates serve as the intercellular cement in hair that binds the hair strand together

ANATOMY

Hair Structure

HAIR STRAND STRUCTUREThe root of the hair shaft is located below the surface of the scalp. Once hair leaves the root, it is a compilation of fully keratinized cells. Though no longer living, these cells are bound together in three layers.

The Cut ic leThis is the outermost layer of the hair strand and serves as a protective barrier, shielding the inner layers from environmental damage. The cuticle layer consists of overlapping transparent scale-like cells, resembling the shingles on a roof. A healthy, compact cuticle layer adds shine and luster to a hair strand. An unhealthy, damaged cuticle layer appears dull and rough. It is difficult to maintain consistent color vibrancy on hair with a damaged cuticle layer.

ANATOMY

The Cor texConsisting of approximately 90% of the hair strand, the cortex layer is the fibrous protein core that provides strength, elasticity and natural color with melanin pigment. Permanent oxidative hair color, and all other permanent salon services alter the cellular structure within in the cortex.

The Medu l laThis is the innermost layer of the hair strand, and is not affected by salon services. Very fine and light blonde hair are usually lacking a medulla layer.

Hair Structure

HAIR STRAND GROWTHHuman hair grows at an average of 1.25 centimeters (½ inch) per month, or 15 centimeters (6 inches) per year. As the hair grows, environmental influences such as heat styling or chemical alteration affect the overall health of the hair strand. For optimum service results, divide the hair strand into three sections.

Prox ima l New GrowthClosest to the scalp, the proximal new growth of the hair strand is most vulnerable to chemical aggressors. This ¼ to ½ inch of new hair strand growth reacts to our natural body heat and responds differently to hair color and other in-salon services.

Media l M id-LengthsThe medial portion of the hair strand extends beyond the proximal new growth. If present, the medial mid-lengths react differently to hair color, as there is little, to no natural body heat. Other influencer such as previous hair color services, damage from styling tools, and/or other environmental aggressors can alter hair color results in this section of the hair strand.

Dis ta l Porous EndsThe distal porous ends extend past the shoulders, beyond the medial mid-lengths, and must be considered in hair color formulation. If present, their integrity may have been chemically or mechanically stripped through repeat decolorization, hair color services or excessive heat styling.

ANATOMY

Hair Strand Growth

HAIR STRAND GROWTH CYCLEHair follows a specific growth cycle with four distinct and concurrent phases: anagen, catagen, telogen and exogen. All four phases occur simultaneously where one strand of hair may be in the anagen phase, while another is in the exogen phase. Understanding the hair strand growth cycle explains why some guests have hair that grows in uneven patterns, or they experience extreme hair loss.

ANATOMY

Anagen PhaseThe growing phase tha t de te rmines the length of a hair strand. The anagen p h a s e l a s t s a n average of two to seven years.

Catagen PhaseThis is a transitional phase where the hair follicle shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla. This phase lasts about ten days.

Ta logen PhaseLasting approximately three months, the talogen phase is a resting period for hair strand growth. During this phase, the “old” hair rests in place while a new hair begins its growth phase. Only around 10% to15% of human hair is in the talogen phase at any time.

Exogen PhaseThis is the transitional phase between the old hair shedding and new hair growth. A healthy human sheds 50 to150 hairs daily.

HAIR STRAND ABUNDANCEDensity, Texture and Porosity play a significant role in formulating hair color. Each must be considered for optimum results in a color service.

Dens i tyThis is the measurement of individual hair strands per square inch (2.5 cm) of the scalp. The average hair density is about 2,200 hairs per square inch. The human head is approximately 120 square inches (770 cm2) and has about 100,000 hair strands. Blondes average the most hairs per square inch, and Redheads average the least.

Tex tureThe circumference of the hair follicle determines hair strand texture. As the circumference of the hair follicle expands, so does the thickness of the hair strand. There is no relation between texture and density in human hair. Some may have dense hair with a fine hair strand, and some may have lower density (less hair per square inch) with a thick hair strand.

Poros i t yHair strand porosity determines its ability to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer and can influence the final results of a color service. Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is considered resistant, and requires a higher alkaline solution to permit even saturation. Porous hair with a raised cuticle layer requires a lower alkaline solution with a lower pH, to protect the integrity of the hair strand and achieve optimum results.

Properly identifying texture and porosity helps determine color service type, level, and developer. The easiest way to determine the porosity of hair is to take a small section of several hair strands in four areas of the head (front hairline, temple, crown and nape). Hold each strand firmly with one hand, and using your thumb and index finger of the other hand, slide from the distal end to the scalp. If the hair is smooth and slick, it most likely has a compact cuticle layer and will be resistant. If the hair is rough, it is most likely porous.

ANATOMY

Natural Level System

LEVEL10

LEVEL9

LEVEL8

LEVEL7

LEVEL6

LEVEL5

LEVEL4

LEVEL3

LEVEL2

LEVEL1

LEVEL0

HAIR STRAND FORMATIONWhile the hair follicle size governs texture, its shape determines hair strand formation. Humans generally have one of three types of formation: straight, wavy, or curly.

St ra igh t Ha i r S t rand Format ionA round hair follicle produces a straight formation. Straight hair tends to be very soft, shiny, and poor at holding curl. Straight hair generally has a compact cuticle layer and is difficult to damage.

Wavy Ha i r S t rand Format ion A more oval hair follicle usually produces a wavy “S” patterned hair strand. Density and porosity determine color results, but wavy hair generally holds style well with a smooth, to average cuticle layer.

Cur ly Ha i r S t rand Format ion The flatter the hair follicle becomes, the curlier the hair strand grows. This is because the shape of the hair follicle allows more cysteine to compact together, resulting in a bent shape. With every additional disulfide bond, the shape becomes curlier in form. Curly hair presents an “S” pattern and tends to combine thickness, fullness, body and/or frizziness. The cuticle layer of curly hair strands generally ranges from average to porous.

ANATOMY

HAIR STRAND COLORAT ION

Natura l Leve l Sys temAs in art, the level system for hair is a measurement that determines the saturation (or depth) of the lightness, or darkness of a color. Whether determining the Virgin Natural Level or the existing Pre-Color Treated Hair Level, always use the L’ANZA Healing Color level finder.

Proper use of the L’ANZA Healing Color Level Finder ensures accuracy when formulating. As level interpretation may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, using a level finder guarantees you are on target. If you are off a level or two, your formulation and final result will be off as well.

Gray vs . Wh i te Ha i rGenerally associated with aging, gray or white hair is lacking pigmentation and melanin. Beyond the natural aging process, ethnic heritage, albinism, thyroid deficiencies, Waardenburg syndrome or a vitamin B12 deficiency can also be contributors to loss of pigmentation, causing hair to become gray.

To determine the percentage of gray hair, use the Percentage Of Gray Finder in the back of your L’ANZA Healing Color Swatch Binder or Shade Book. Like the Natural Level Finder, this tool helps you correctly formulate a hair color to neutralize or enhance the natural gray coloration of the hair strand (discussed later in this manual).

ANATOMY

• Hold the Natural Level Finder so the numbers are not facing upwards.• Select 2 to 3 swatches close to the level of the hair. Remember that warm hair tones may appear lighter and cool tones darker, so it’s important to evaluate the actual level.• Using your fingers, spread the fibers on the swatch and blend it into the hair to make the best evaluation.• Select the best match, then flip the tab over to view the level.

ANATOMY

Phaeomelanin is the lighter pigment and is responsible for blonde and red hair colors.

Eumelanin is the darker pigment and is responsible for brown and black hair colors.

Dark brown hair will have• High levels of Eumelanin. • Low levels of Phaeomelanin.

Blonde and copper hair will have• High levels of Phaeomelanin. • Low levels of Eumelanin.

Natura l Me lan in P igmentsThere are two types of natural melanin pigments in hair.

• Eumelan in is the melanin that lends black and brown colors to hair. A low concentration of brown eumelanin results in blonde hair, whereas a higher concentration of brown eumelanin colors the hair b rown. H igh amounts o f b lack eumelanin result in black hair, while low concentrations result in gray hair.

• Pheomelan in is the melanin that gives blonde and red colors to hair. All humans have some pheomelanin in their hair. It is more chemically stable than black eumelanin, but less chemically stable than brown eumelanin. When oxidized, pheomelanin breaks down more slowly, revealing a reddish tone in darker hair during the lightening process. Whether using decolorizer or a high-lift tint, pheomelanin continues to break down during the lightening process. Hair gradually becomes orange, then yellow, and finally white.

Levels of melanin vary over time, causing a person’s hair color to change. It is possible for a person to have a combination of light pheomelanin rich, and dark eumelanin rich hair strands on their head at the same time. This is difficult to detect with the naked eye, but is why some level 7’s lift cool and some lift warm.

HAIR STRAND CONDIT IONWhether the hair strand is virgin or previously chemically altered, condition and integrity determines the final result of a color service.

V i rg in (na tu ra l )Healthy virgin hair has good porosity and elasticity. Hair strand abundance and formation determine co lor formulat ion, and is genera l ly eas iest to formulate for optimum results.

V i rg in Sens i t i zedJust because a hair strand hasn’t been previously colored doesn’t mean i t is in opt imal condit ion. External aggressors such as excessive heat from hot tools, sun, abrasion from hair ties, rough combing/brushing, hard water, chlorine, minerals and medication can alter the condition of virgin hair. Sensitized virgin hair should be treated according to pre-treatment protocols described later in this manual, for optimum color results.

Co lo r Trea tedA previously color treated hair strand requires a specific approach to color application. Levels of alkalinity and pH should be taken into consideration during formulation to maintain optimum hair strand health, and final color results.

ANATOMY

HAIR COLOR

TECHNOLOGY

Hair Color Chemical Attributes

–Hair Color

Developer Attributes–

Choosing And Understanding Color Systems

HAIR COLOR CHEMICAL ATTR IBUTES What is in the bottle or tube of hair color you are using? Each color system or brand infuses special nuances that make their color unique. Pigment levels, alkali percentages and conditioning agents vary from system to system, but the overall science is universal to all hair color brands.

COLORANTSThese are the color pigments or dyes used to create the final tone (shade). There are two types of colorants used in hair color.

Di rec t DyeDirect dyes are large pre-formed dye molecules that need no source of oxygen to express their tonality. Generally, they sit on top of the hair strand as a stain, or penetrate the cuticle layer slightly. Direct dyes may also be used in conjunction with oxidative color as an assistant to color perception. In permanent hair color, direct dyes are usually used to enhance and brighten tone.

Ox ida t i ve DyeOxidative dyes are the binding of small colorless (undeveloped) pigments that require an oxygen source to express their tonality. When mixed with an alkali source, oxidative dye molecules penetrate past the cuticle into the cortex and chemically change, creating a new tone. The two connecting sources of undeveloped pigment and oxygen are also referred to as Primaries and Couplers. The most effective way to permanently change the natural color of a hair strand (cover gray, lighten and/or permanently change tone) is to use an oxidative dye. This allows the colorist to lift and deposit color through a chemical alteration of the cortex and its natural level of melanin.

HAIR COLOR TECHNOLOGY

ALKALI - AMMONIA OR FIXED ALKALI (MEA):The average pH of human hair is between 4.5 and 5.5. A hair strand kept in this range remains healthy with a compact cuticle layer to protect the cortex. During the permanent and demi-permanent color and lightening process, the pH level of a hair strand must be raised to an alkaline level (higher than its natural pH). Raising the pH level of a hair strand causes it to soften and swell, forcing the protective cuticle layer open. This process allows lightening or darkening of the hair strand through the deposite of new hair color pigments. There are several types of alkaline derivatives, though the most commonly used in hair color are ammonia and fixed alkalis. An example of a fixed alkali is MEA (Monoethanolamine).

The level of the hair color being used and the desired level of lift determines where each alkali source sets in their individual pH alteration. Higher lift colors and decolorizers create higher levels of pH in the hair strand. As you can see, both ammonia and MEA significantly raise the pH in a hair strand, and both can cause damage if aggressively misused. It is also important to note that many color brands (and their respective decolorizers) contain both ammonia and MEA


Ammonia: Raises pH level in a hair strand between 10 and 10.5 MEA: Raises raise pH level in a hair strand between 9 and 10

Sur fac tan tsThese are commonly used in shampoo to lower the surface tension between the hair strand and dirt/debris. They act as a gentle detergent in hair color to help rinse processed color from the hair strand.

Che la to rsThese bind the color molecules and “break through” small amounts of build-up on the hair strand.

Stab i l i ze rsThese maintain alkali levels in the color for consistent and predictable results.

Ant i -Ox idantsThese prevent the accumulation of oxygen in the bottle/tube. Oxygen can cause the color to begin its oxidation process prior to color application.

Cond i t i onersThese protect hair strand strength and infuse moisture, reducing damage during the color process.


HAIR COLOR DEVELOPER ATTR IBUTESDeveloper, when mixed with the alkali in hair color, creates a catalyst to processing during a color service. The combination of developer and hair color enables the effectiveness of alkali, oxidative color and the deposit of colorants during a color service. Hair color developer contains hydrogen peroxide that decomposes over time, and releases oxygen. One volume of hydrogen peroxide makes 20 volumes of oxygen; this is why a color formula is strongest when first mixed. The percentage of hydrogen peroxide in a developer determines how long oxygen is released, and in some cases can alter the processing time of a color service. Hydrogen peroxide also reduces and fractures melanin in the hair strand, exposing natural undertone (also referred to as warmth).Developer is measured by its percentage of hydrogen peroxide to determine strength, and level of deposit during a color process. Generally speaking, a higher level of hydrogen peroxide in developer contributes to a higher level of lift. In contrast, a lower the level of hydrogen peroxide contributes to a lower level of lift.

Deve loper Leve ls


10 VOLUME – 3% One level of lift in a natural hair strand.

20 VOLUME – 6% Two levels of lift.

30 VOLUME – 9% Up to three levels of lift.

40 VOLUME – 12% Up to four levels of lift.

CHOOSING AND UNDERSTANDING COLOR SYSTEMSOne-Component Color Systems without an oxygen source present to create a chemical reaction within the hair strand.

Temporar y Ha i r Co lo r :Made with direct dyes that stain the cuticle layer of the hair strand. Temporary hair color lasts up to three shampoos, depending on the hair strand porosity and condition. There is no source of alkali used to alter the pH level of the hair strand.

Semi-Permanent Ha i r Co lo r :Made with direct dyes that deliver color to the cuticle and slightly into the cortex. Semi-permanent hair color lasts up to eight shampoos, depending on the hair strand porosity and condition. Has a slight alkali pH level. Two-Component Color Systems with an oxygen source present to create a chemical reaction within the hair strand.



Demi-Permanent Ha i r Co lo r :Made with oxidative and direct dyes that deliver color to the cuticle and partially into the cortex. Color is usually tone-on-tone, but may expose a small amount of lift in the natural hair strand. Has an acidic, or low alkali pH level of ammonia or MEA.

Permanent Ha i r Co lo r : Made with oxidative and direct dyes used to create lift (of natural melanin only), and to deposit artificial pigment deep within the cortex. Has an elevated alkali pH level of ammonia or MEA.

Mul t i Component Sys tem L igh tener /Deco lo r i ze r : Lifts the hair strand 4 or more levels by effectively shattering existing natural melanin and artificial pigment within the cortex, altering saturation. Also commonly used for foil and balayage highlights prior to a glaze. Has a high alkali pH level.

THEMECHANICSOF SUCCESS

The L’ANZA Healing Color Mechanics Of Success

–Understanding

L’ANZA Healing Color–

Successful Color Formulation–

Conducting A Patch Test–

Preparing The Hair For A Color Service–

Corrective Color–

Post Color Services

THE L’ANZA HEALING COLOR MECHANICS OF SUCCESS A comprehensive understanding of color theory and hair color technology is the first step to a successful salon color service. The next steps to success are:

• Understanding L’ANZA Healing Color• Successful Color Formulation• Conducting a Patch Test• Preparing The Hair For A Color Service• Proper Post-Service Treatment & Home Care

UNDERSTANDING L’ANZA HEAL ING COLOR

HEALS. SEALS. PROTECTS.L’ANZA Healing Color gives 3-in-1 versatility for Permanent, Demi Permanent and Demi Translucent results.

• True-to-Tone color results• Improved hair condition• Great performance and savings

The first and only professional hair color that Heals, Seals and Protects with Color Attachment Technology, infusing hair with rich, long-lasting color.

THE MECHANICSOF SUCCESS

All in ONE tube of color!


COLOR ATTACHMENT TECHNOLOGYRich, long-lasting color starts in the tube. L’ANZA Healing Color infuses each hair strand with Color Attachment Technology, extending service results up to 107% longer than previous generations.

Kera t in Hea l ing Sys temProtein, moisture and minerals are vital to hair health. The L’ANZA Keratin Healing System heals the hair by replacing all of these essential nutrients.

Infused with potent doses of:

• Keratin Amino Acids – the key structural protein of hair and nails

• Meadowfoam Flower Seed Complex – essential lipids for proper hydration of the hair

• UVA, UVB and UVC Protection

• PCA (Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) – extraordinary humectants that maintain moisture and replenish the necessary minerals lost during chemical processing

The Keratin Healing System embeds Keratin Amino Acids deep inside each hair strand. The proteins in Keratin Amino Acids function synergistically with the Meadowfoam Flower Seed Complex and PCAs to heal and moisturize. These positively charged healers are attracted to negatively charged damaged areas within the hair strand. This action allows the hair to heal from within, so the external texture becomes smooth, shiny and healthier.

KERAT IN HEAL ING SYSTEM

• Sodium PCA: A hygroscopic ingredient that attracts moisture from the air

• Magnesium PCA: A super-moisturizing agent that fights against fatigue and stress by rehabilitating hair fiber

• Zinc PCA: Helps restore healing activity by fortifying the cortical wall while infusing moisture

• Maganese PCA: Helps in the hydrolysis of hair cells

FLOWER SH IELD COMPLEXThe Flower Shield Complex is a specialized blend of flower extracts designed to shield hair from UV rays that cause color to fade. This complex contains the same potent anti-fade protectors that flowers use for their own color protection.

Powerful phyto-compounds are extracted from seven color-specific flowers: Echinacea, Cornflower, Green Orchid, Rose, Calendula, Hibiscus and White Gardenia. These flowers contain special ingredients to protect colors in specific UV wavelengths.

These seven flower extracts provide full-spectrum color protection and guard against fading in all hair color hues, saturation and tone. The result: hair color stays true and radiant longer – even the brightest reds. Independent studies confirm that Flower Shield Complex extends color life up to 107% longer.

White represents the combination of all colors. The phyto-compounds found in Gardenia ensure complete protection over the entire color spectrum.

FLAVONOIDS, found in Cornflower & Echinacea, protect haircolor in the blue to violet range.

CHLOROPHYLL,found in the Green

Orchid, protects hair color in the

green range. CAROTENOIDS, found in Rose, Calendula & Hibiscus, protect hair color in the yellow to red range.


3- IN-1 FLEX IB IL ITYL’ANZA Healing Color offers a wide array of fabulous shades with five dedicated developers, offering unlimited flexibility and full-spectrum color protection for all Permanent, Demi Permanent and Demi Translucent formulas. Maximum formulation flexibility with great performance and savings – all in one tube of color!

Reliable, consistent results are created time after time. Hair is luxuriously shiny and true-to-level (saturation) and tone, from new growth to distal porous ends.

PERMANENTLighten • Darken • Cover Gray

DEMI PERMANENTDeposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh

DEMI TRANSLUCENTTone • Glaze • Enhance

1 Part Healing Color1 Part Healing Color Developer (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume)

1 Part Healing Color2 Parts Demi Healing Color Developer

1 Part Healing Color1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst2 Parts Demi Healing Color Developer

1:1 1:2 1: 1: 2:

PERMANENT DEMI PERMANENT DEMI TRANSLUCENT

=


L’ANZA Hea l ing Co lo r• Versatile formulations for Permanent, Demi Permanent and Demi Translucent applications

• Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex

• Intermixable shades provide unlimited formulation creativity

Color Wheel

BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX RED MIX COPPER MIX GOLD MIX SILVER MIX PEARL MIX

up to 3 g

up to 3 g

up to 5 g

up to 5 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 5 g

up to 5 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 5 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 3 g

up to 5 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 5 g

up to 7 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 5 g

up to 5 g

up to 7 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

3 4 5 7 8 8 9

*Up to 25% of color formula, based on one application with 30 g Healing Color.

up to 5 g

up to 5 g

up to 5 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

up to 9 g

LEVEL

10987654321

MIX TONE ADDITIONS* ENHANCEMENT OF TONE


• Just under 90 Standard Shades in levels 1-10 with a consistent ammonia level of 1.68% • Ultra Natural Series (NN) and (NV) provide unparalleled coverage for resistant gray hair in one step• 8 mix tones enhance or control existing tone• 5 High Lift Blondes (100 Series) provide up to 4 levels of lift and have consistent ammonia level of 2.5% for lift and refinement of tone• 4 Super Lifts (200 Series) provide maximum lift of up to 5 levels on level 6 and under, and have a consistent ammonia level of 3.36%

FAMILY LETTER BASE RECOMMENDED USE

MIX TONE LETTER BASE RECOMMENDED USE

NATURAL VIOLET

ULTRA NATURAL

NATURAL

ASH

EXTRA ASH

BEIGE

BEIGE-COPPER

GOLD

GOLD-COPPER

COPPER-GOLD

NATURAL COPPER

COPPER

ULTRA COPPER

ULTRA RED-COPPER

RED

ULTRA RED

RED VIOLET

VIOLET

PEARL

NV

NN

N

A

AX

B

BC

G

GC

CG

NC

C

CC

RRC

R

RR

RV

V

P

Balanced with Violet100% Balanced

Balanced100% Balanced

Balanced100% Balanced

Blue-Green60% Balanced, 40% Blue-Green

Green-Green-Blue50% Balanced, 40% Green,10% Blue

Yellow-Green60% Balanced, 40% Yellow-Green

Yellow-Green-Orange60% Balanced, 30% Yellow-Green,10% Orange

Yellow60% Balanced, 40% Yellow

Yellow-Orange60% Balanced, 30% Yellow, 10% Orange

Orange-Yellow60% Balanced, 30% Orange, 10% Yellow

Balanced with Orange90% Balanced, 10% Orange

Orange60% Balanced, 40% Orange

Orange-Orange50% Balanced, 50% Orange

Red-Red-Orange40% Balanced, 50% Red,10% Orange

Red60% Balanced, 40% Red

Red-Red50% Balanced, 50% Red

Red-Violet60% Balanced, 30% Red,10% Violet

Violet60% Balanced, 40% Violet

Violet-Blue60% Balanced, 30% Violet,10% Blue

SHADES and FAMIL IES

PEARL MIX

SILVER MIX

BLUE MIX

VIOLET MIX

RED MIX

X MIX

COPPER MIX

GOLD MIX

P

S

B

V

R

X

C

G

Violet-Blue

Blue-Violet

Blue

Violet

Red

Green-Yellow

Orange

Yellow

Enhances neutral and cool tones at lighter levels. Controls golden warm tones at lighter levels.

Enhances neutral and cool tones at lighter levels. Controls warm tones at lighter levels.

Enhances blue tones. Controls orange tones. Deepens ash tones.

Enhances violet tones. Controls yellow tones and brassiness.

Enhances red tones. Adds warmth.

Controls red tones. Deepens ash tones. Reduces warmth.

Enhances orange and copper tones. Adds warmth. Reduces ash tones.

Enhances gold tones, adds warmth. Reduces violet tones.

Balanced base with a hint of violet to control gold tones for cool, neutral results. Use alone or add to color formulations for gray coverage or tonal balance.

Formulated with increased pigment concentrations. Perfectly balanced for true-to-tone and on-level natural color results. Especially designed for resistant gray coverage in one step.

Perfectly balanced to reflect naturally occurring tonal values. Use alone or add to color formulations for gray coverage or tonal balance.

Perfectly balanced to deliver natural ash results. Blue base consistently controls unwanted warmth.

Balanced, natural-looking ash with additional control over warmth.

True, natural beige without unwanted red tones.

Rich beige with added copper tones. Beautiful alone or when added to any color series.

Brilliant gold – perfectly balanced to deliver vibrant warmth when used alone, to impart rich golden tonal balance to any shade.

Provides rich golden tone with enhanced warmth from copper tones.

Ideal to create naturally occurring copper shades with rich, gold undertones.

Balanced base with a hint of orange to create a rich natural copper.

Warm copper creates radiant tones.

Ultra rich copper for a bold, vivid effect.

Fiery red and copper tones. Use alone for maximum impact, or layer into any shade.

Cool reds add depth.

Beautiful and bold. Contains additional red pigments for added depth and ruby-like intensity.*Can be used along or added to any shade.

Red and violet merge to create velvety tones.

Violet browns create burgundy hues.

Pearls create violet-blue tones that control warmth.


5NV

6NV

7NV

8NV

9NV

4NV

5NN

6NN

7NN

8NN

9NN

10NN

4NN

100

10N

8N

7N

6N

5N

4N

3N

1N

9N

Natural

N

100% BalancedTrue-to-tone& on-level.

NaturalViolet

NV

100% Cool-BalancedControls warmthfor exceptionalgray coverage

7CG 7NC

8C

7C 7CC

6RRC 6R

5R 5RR

4R 4RV

5V

100V

200V

100P

200P

10P P

G

C

X

R

V

B

S9P

8P

7P

6P

4V

3V

5RRC

4RRC

6CG

5CG

4CG

7GC

6GC

100A

200A 200AX

10A

9A

8A 8AX

7AX

6AX

5AX

4AX

7A

6A

5A

4A

100B

9B 9G

8G

7G

6G

5G

6BC

4BC

8B

7B

6B

NaturalCopper

UltraRed-Copper Mix TonesPearlVioletRed VioletUltra RedRedUltra CopperCopperCopper-

GoldGold-

CopperGoldBeige-CopperBeigeExtra AshAsh

A AX B BC G GC CG NC C CC RRC R RR RV V P

UltraNatural

NN

100% BalancedFor exceptional

on-tonegray coverage

60% Balanced40% Blue-GreenControls warmth.

50% Balanced40% Green10% Blue

Controls excessivewarmth

60% Balanced40% Yellow-Green

Adds gold toneswhile controlling

unwanted warmth.


10% OrangeAdds warmth while

controlling red tones.

60% Balanced40% YellowAdds warmth

with golden tone.

60% Balanced30% Yellow10% OrangeAdds warmthwith gold &

copper tones.

60% Balanced30% Orange10% Yellow

Adds warmth withcopper & gold tones.

90% Balanced10% Orange

Enhances warmthin natural tones

with copper.

60% Balanced40% OrangeAdds warmth

with copper tones.

50% Balanced50% OrangeAdds warmthwith intense

copper tones.

40% Balanced50% Red

10% OrangeAdds warmth

with intense red& copper tones.

60% Balanced40% Red

Adds rich, coolred tones.

50% Balanced50% Red

Adds warmthwith intensered tones.

60% Balanced30% Red

10% VioletAdds cool red& violet tones.

60% Balanced40% Violet

Adds cool violet tones. Neutralizes

warm tones.

60% Balanced30% Violet10% Blue

Intensifies cool blondetones. Neutralizes

yellow & orange tones.

Enhances orcontrols tones.

100 High LiftBlonde

200 Super Lift

10Very Light

Blonde

9Light Blonde

8MediumBlonde

7Dark Blonde

6Light Brown

5Medium Brown

4Dark Brown

3Brown/Black

1Black

FAMILY

BASE

LETTER


5NV

6NV

7NV

8NV

9NV

4NV

5NN

6NN

7NN

8NN

9NN

10NN

4NN

100

10N

8N

7N

6N

5N

4N

3N

1N

9N

Natural

N

100% BalancedTrue-to-tone& on-level.

NaturalViolet

NV

100% Cool-BalancedControls warmthfor exceptionalgray coverage

7CG 7NC

8C

7C 7CC

6RRC 6R

5R 5RR

4R 4RV

5V

100V

200V

100P

200P

10P P

G

C

X

R

V

B

S9P

8P

7P

6P

4V

3V

5RRC

4RRC

6CG

5CG

4CG

7GC

6GC

100A

200A 200AX

10A

9A

8A 8AX

7AX

6AX

5AX

4AX

7A

6A

5A

4A

100B

9B 9G

8G

7G

6G

5G

6BC

4BC

8B

7B

6B

NaturalCopper

UltraRed-Copper Mix TonesPearlVioletRed VioletUltra RedRedUltra CopperCopperCopper-

GoldGold-

CopperGoldBeige-CopperBeigeExtra AshAsh

A AX B BC G GC CG NC C CC RRC R RR RV V P

UltraNatural

NN

100% BalancedFor exceptional

on-tonegray coverage

60% Balanced40% Blue-GreenControls warmth.

50% Balanced40% Green10% Blue

Controls excessivewarmth


Adds gold toneswhile controlling

unwanted warmth.


10% OrangeAdds warmth while

controlling red tones.

60% Balanced40% YellowAdds warmth

with golden tone.

60% Balanced30% Yellow10% OrangeAdds warmthwith gold &

copper tones.

60% Balanced30% Orange10% Yellow

Adds warmth withcopper & gold tones.

90% Balanced10% Orange

Enhances warmthin natural tones

with copper.

60% Balanced40% OrangeAdds warmth

with copper tones.

50% Balanced50% OrangeAdds warmthwith intense

copper tones.

40% Balanced50% Red

10% OrangeAdds warmth

with intense red& copper tones.

60% Balanced40% Red

Adds rich, coolred tones.

50% Balanced50% Red

Adds warmthwith intensered tones.

60% Balanced30% Red

10% VioletAdds cool red& violet tones.

60% Balanced40% Violet

Adds cool violet tones. Neutralizes

warm tones.

60% Balanced30% Violet10% Blue

Intensifies cool blondetones. Neutralizes

yellow & orange tones.

Enhances orcontrols tones.

100 High LiftBlonde

200 Super Lift

10Very Light

Blonde

9Light Blonde

8MediumBlonde

7Dark Blonde

6Light Brown

5Medium Brown

4Dark Brown

3Brown/Black

1Black

FAMILY

BASE

LETTER

SHADE CHART


L’ANZA Hea l ing Co lo r Deve lopers• Five dedicated developers for all color services

• Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex

L’ANZA Translucent Color Catalyst• Neutralizes 99.9% of the ammonia in L’ANZA Healing Color• Not a developer, must be used in conjunction with L’ANZA Demi Healing Color Developer• Demi Translucent color can be used to glaze, gloss or enhance, creating tonal consistency from proximal new growth through distal porous ends of the hair strand – with one tube of color• Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex

Demi Healing Color Developer (1.75%)

10 Volume Healing Color Developer (3%)





PERMANENTLighten • Darken • Cover Gray

DEMI PERMANENTDeposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh

DEMI TRANSLUCENTTone • Glaze • Enhance

1 Part Healing Color1 Part Healing Color Developer (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume)

1 Part Healing Color2 Parts Demi Healing Color Developer

1 Part Healing Color1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst2 Parts Demi Healing Color Developer

1:1 1:2 1: 1: 2:

3-IN-1 FLEXIBILITY

10 VolumeUp to 1 level lift

20 VolumeUp to 2 levels lift



Deposit Only

Fill

Deposit OnlyGlaze

35-45 min

35-45 min

35-45 min

35-45 min

Up to20 min

10 min

Up to20 min

Mix ing & Process ing


L’ANZA Hea l ing Co lo r Powder and Cream Deco lo r i ze rs

• Powder Decolorizer is dust-free and easy to mix for smooth consistency and application• Cream Decolorizer contains protective emollients to provide maximum comfort for clients with a sensitive scalp• Can achieve up to 7 levels of lift • Can be formulated for both on and off-scalp applications• Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex

HIGH LIFT BLONDESBlonding • Highlighting

SUPER LIFTSMaximum Lift and Control

HEALING POWDERDECOLORIZERBlonding • Highlighting

HEALING CREAMDECOLORIZERBlonding • Highlighting

1 Part Healing Color (100 Series)2 Parts Healing Color Developer (40 Volume)

1 Part Healing Color (200 Series)2 Parts Healing Color Developer (40 Volume)

1 Part Healing Powder Decolorizer2 Parts Healing Color Developer

1 Part Healing Cream Decolorizer1 Part Healing Color Developer

BLONDING


40 VolumeUp to 5 levels lift Demi

10 Volume20 Volume

Demi10 Volume20 Volume30 Volume40 Volume

Up to45 min

45-55 min

up to 60 min

up to 60 min

NOTE: Recommended forLevel 7 and higher.

NOTE: Recommended forLevel 6 and under.

Mix ing & Process ing

CD1:2 1:2 1:2 1:1

ON – SCALP

OFF – SCALP


SUCCESSFUL COLOR FORMULATION L’ANZA Healing Color recommends five steps to Successful Color Formulation.

STEP 1: DETERMINE THE CLIENT’S NATURAL AND EXISTING LEVEL Using the L’ANZA Healing Color level finder, identify: • Natural Level (NL) – the level of natural virgin hair that has not been previously colored, lightened or chemically altered.

• Existing Level (EL) – the level of previously colored, lightened or chemically altered hair.

REMEMBER TO VERIFY THE PERCENTAGE OF GRAY HAIR Using the L’ANZA Healing Color Percentage Gray Finder, verify the percentage of gray hair. You need this information to adjust your formula to account for the missing pigment in gray hair.

When formulating for gray coverage, add a shade from one of the following series at the same level as the Target Color. • The Natural Violet Series (NV). • The Ultra Natural Series (NN). • The Natural Series (N).

ACCOUNT FOR GRAY COVERAGE

0 - 25% Add up to 25% NV, NN or N to the formula

Add up to 50% NV, NN or N to the formula

Add up to 75% NV, NN or N to the formula

Add up to 100% NV or NN to the formula

25% - 50%

50% - 75%

75% - 100%

PERCENTAGE OF GRAY FORMULATION INFO*


STEP 2 : DETERMINE THE TARGET LEVEL DES IRED Changing level requires specific formulation and must be considered to ensure exact final results.

DETERMINE TARGET LEVEL (TL)

Are you going lighter or darker? How many (if any) levels? What is the natural undertone at that level?

STEP 3: DETERMINE THE UNDERTONE FOUND AT THE TARGET LEVEL This is an easy determination once you’ve established Steps 1 and 2. Is the final color hue of the Target Color (TC) changing? Is it red, orange, yellow…etc? When formulating, determine if you want to maintain, neutralize or enhance the natural undertone to achieve your final goal.

LEVEL & UNDERTONENEUTRALIZING

BASELEVEL

10987654321

DESCRIPTION UNDERTONE EXPOSEDWHEN LIFTING

Very Light Blonde

Light Blonde

Medium Blonde

Dark Blonde

Light Brown

Medium Brown

Dark Brown

Brown/Black

Dark Brown/Black

Black

Pale Yellow

Yellow

Yellow – Orange

Orange

Red – Orange

Red

Red Violet

Violet

Blue Violet

Blue

Violet

Violet

Blue – Violet

Blue

Blue – Green

Green

Yellow – Green

NONE

NONE

NONE


STEP 4: SELECT THE SHADE AND DEVELOPER VOLUME NEEDED

TO ACHIEVE YOUR TARGET LEVEL AND TONE Confirm the change in level at the proximal new growth, medial mid-lengths and distal porous ends of the hair to achieve the target level and tone. This step helps you choose the appropriate color process (Permanent, Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent) and developer level for each shade and section of the hair strand.

STEP 5: FORMULATE Implement Steps 1 through 4 to calculate the perfect color formula.

CONSIDER:

1. NATURAL AND EXISTING LEVEL 2. TARGET LEVEL DESIRED 3. UNDERTONE FOUND AT TARGET LEVEL 4. SELECT SHADE AND DEVELOPER VOLUME

Formulate according to your findings. Choose Permanent, Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color with the appropriate volume of developer to achieve your final goal.


CONDUCTING A PATCH TEST A patch test is always recommended to protect the client from unexpected sensitivity during a color service. This is a vital practice, especially for a new guest, as some people are sensitive to hair color ingredients.

To perform a patch test:

PREPARING THE HAIR FOR A COLOR SERVICE A number of factors can prevent optimum color results. Mineral deposits, pollution and product build-up can block color penetration. Compromised hair lacks integrity and structure for even deposition of color. L’ANZA rec-ommends cleansing the hair prior to color application to ensure optimal color results. Here are a few options to prepare the hair.

THE ULTIMATE TREATMENTThe Ultimate Treatment is specifically designed to be used in conjunction with other in-salon services.

1. Cleanse a small area of the skin behind the ear on the inner surface of the forearm, using either soap and water or alcohol.2. Mix a small quantity of the hair color formula as prepared for actual use.3. Apply color to the prepared area and let dry completely.4. After 48 hours, gently wash the test area with soap and water.5. If no irritation or inflammation is apparent, it is usually assumed that no hypersensitivity to the formula exists.

Don’t forget the Protective Barrier Cream!

• Provides exceptional skin and scalp protection against unwanted stains or irritation during color services.

• Easy to apply and stays in place – won’t melt!

• Easy to wash off.

• Can also be used before other chemical services, such as perms.

• Dramatically improves service results• Increases client satisfaction and retention• Stimulates repeat business


THE ULTIMATE COLOR SERVICE prepares hair for optimal color results by removing impurities that block color uptake, restoring essential proteins, and ensuring even color results.

HAIR TYPE STRENGTH MOISTURE VOLUME

Dry

Severely Dry

Weak / Fragile

Severely Weak

Fine / Thin

Very Fine / Thin

Color-Processed

Color Service

Permed

Perm Service

Straightening Service

1

2

3

1

1

1

1

2

2

2

3

1

2

2

1

1

1

2

1

POWER BOOSTER DOSAGE CHARTAdd any three pumps to the Deep Treatment in Step 2

Step 2 Apply Deep Treatment with Power Boosters. Add 1 pump Strength and 2 pumps Moisture Power Boosters to 1pump Deep Treatment. Emulsify and apply to damp ha i r. Leave in 3-5 minutes. Do not manipulate scalp. Rinse thoroughly.

Step 3 Towel dry hair. Spray in Power Protector to seal in nutrients. Comb t h r o u g h , a n d t h e n p r o c eed w i t h c o l o r application.

Step 1 Pur i f y Ha i r w i t h Chelating Shampoo. Apply to damp hair, l a t h e r and r i n s e thoroughly. Do not manipulate scalp.

Ultimate Treatment


Professional ServiceCOLOR ATTACH Step-1 Color Pre-Treatment

CORTICAL ADHESION TECHNOLOGY™To boost color uptake and deposition, Lipophilic Receptors are infused into the hair and affixed to the cortical membrane. These receptors establish color attachment sites within the hair that dramatically increase adherence of color pigments. This advanced technology ensures maximum pigment density per square micrometer for unmatchedhair color richness.

HOW TO USE:Prior to a color service, sprayCOLOR ATTACH Step-1 into hairand comb through. Then proceedwith the color service as usual.May be used with oxidative ordirect dye color. Wil l not di lutecolor or affect hue. Works on allhair types.


• Significantly improves color attachment for both oxidative and direct dye services• Primes the hair fiber to boost color uptake and deposition• Creates color attachment sites in the cortex to improve color adhesion• Deposits more pigments per square micrometer• Equalizes porosity for more even coverage• Increases color density by 48%

Cortical Membrane

LipophilicReceptors

ColorPigments

COLOR ATTACH Step-1Color Pre-Treatment

Professional ServiceCOLOR ATTACH Step-2 Color Post-Treatment

REGENERATIVE THERAPY COMPLEX™Hair is in an extremely fragile state directly after a color service. At this vulnerable phase, it’s imperative that proper post-care rehabilitation occurs immediately to ensure durable, long-lasting color. Regenerative Therapy Complex fully restores hair’s anatomical integrity, allowing for enhanced color richness and brilliance.

HOW TO USE:After shampooing color fromhair, spray directly into towel-dried hair and comb through.Then style hair as desired.May be used with any brandof oxidative or direct dye color.Will not dilute color or affecthue. Works on all hair types.


• Seals in hair color with a weightless, durable color shield • Stops any residual oxidative processing • Locks down cuticle and instantly detangles • Enhances color richness and vividness • Rebuilds disulfide bridges to boost strength • Provides Up to 500˚F / 260˚C heat protection • Provides a durable shine with 148% more reflectivity

COLOR ATTACH Step-2Color Post-Treatment

CLEAR SEALdelivers aweightless,durablecolor shield

MONOMERSclose downcuticles& lock in colorpigments

CYSTINE AMINO ACIDSrebuild damaged disulfide bridges

CORRECTIVE COLORThough daunting, the reality is that any time you are changing tone or level on a hair strand beyond the “regular formula” for a client, you are conducting a color correction.

Whether you are changing tone, removing color build-up or unwanted color, going lighter or darker, creating low-lights, doing a tint-back, or coloring gray; you will be correcting what the client currently has.

This section contains an overview for some color solutions outside the standard or normal color services. This is not intended to be comprehensive and we recommend attending L’ANZA corrective color seminars when available in your area.

Is the Hair Healthy Enough for Color Correction? When doing corrective color services, always consider the condition and health of the hair. Is it strong enough to withstand the multiple color processes required?

Properly Assess the Hair FIRST! Proper assessment of the hair and existing color are key factors to consider. Take the time to assess the hair correctly, and you will save time and the result will be more pleasing to your client.

Remember the Laws of ColorDon’t make color correction more difficult than it is. Remember the basic laws of color, use the Color Wheel as your guide, and understand how to use L’ANZA Healing Color and tools provided.

• COLOR CORRECTION IS NOT AS DIFFICULT AS IT MAY SEEM, AS LONG AS YOU REMEMBER THE BASIC LAWS OF COLOR, USE THE COLOR WHEEL AND UNDERSTAND HOW TO USE L’ANZA HEALING COLOR AND THE TOOLS PROVIDED.

• WHEN DOING CORRECTIVE COLOR SERVICES ALWAYS CONSIDER THE CONDITION AND HEALTH OF THE HAIR.

• SOMETIMES YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO CORRECT THE COLOR PROBLEM IN ONE SESSION.

• PROPER ASSESSMENT OF THE HAIR IS A KEY FACTOR TO CONSIDER. DONE CORRECTLY, IT WILL SAVE YOU TIME AND THE RESULT WILL BE MORE PLEASING TO YOU AND THE CLIENT.


GOING L IGHTERLIFTING MORE THAN 4 LEVELS

LIFTING UP TO 4 LEVELS

GOING DARKERGOING DARKER 1 TO 2 LEVELS

• Choose a Decolorizer and the right strength of developer for the target result.• Only lift to the level to the required supporting undertone of the Target Color. Refer to the Undertone Chart.• Remember when you tone you can only tone cooler, not lighter. It is recommended to lighten to the level necessary to obtain the result you want.

• Choose the right strength of developer! Remember you will always expose warmth; decide if you want to enhance it or neutralize it. Refer to the Undertone Chart to decide what base is best for your Target Color.

• Select the shade(s) to add back the missing pigments at the target level. Approximately ¼ of the mixture should be the missing pigments at the target level. Refer to the Undertone Chart.

EXAMPLE FORMULA FORMULA FOR VERY RESISTANT HAIR

TC

UT

NL

L/T

% Gray

7 copper-gold

orange

9 blonde

2 levels darker, from neutral to warm

0% Process for 20 minutes Process for 10 to 20 minutes

30g 7CG + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer

27g 7CG + 3g C Mix + 30g 10 Volume Healing Color Developer


RECOMMENDAT IONS FOR F ILL ING MORE THAN 2 LEVELSYou must fill the hair to ensure vibrancy, durability and longevity. If you do not fill hair first, results may appear hollow or fade quickly.

• Fill the hair choosing a shade 1 level lighter than the Target Color to replace the missing pigments needed to support the Undertone at the Target Color.

• Apply a Demi Permanent Color formula to the hair, process for 10 minutes.

• Rinse thoroughly – Do not shampoo. Blot hair with towel.

• Apply Target Color in a formula with Demi or 10 Volume Healing Color Developer.

EXAMPLE Fill FORMULA FORMULA FOR SECONDARY APPLICATION

TC

UT

NL

L/T

% Gray

5 copper-gold

orange-red

9 blonde (bleached)

4 levels darker, from warm to warm

0%Process for 10 minutes.Rinse and blot with towel.

30g 5CG + 30g 10 Volume Healing Color Developer

Process for 30 minutes.



Process for 20 minutes.Normal Hair

Resistant Hair

LEVELOF TARGET COLOR FOR A NATURAL RESULT FOR A WARMER RESULT

FORMULA FOR FILLING

8

7

6

5

4

3, 2 or 1

30g 9G + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer 24g 9G + 6g 8C + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer

30g 8G + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer 22g 9G + 8g 8C + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer

30g 7GC + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer 30g 7CG + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer

30g 6GC + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer 30g 6CG + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer

30g 5CG + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer 30g 5R + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer

30g 4CG + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer 30g 4R + 60g Demi Healing Color Developer


REMOVING COLOR BU ILD-UPCOLOR-CLEANSING SHAMPOOIn a corrective color process, the professional colorist may need to perform a color cleanse to remove excessive or undesired pigments from previously-colored hair. L’ANZA’s Color-Cleansing Shampoo is specifically designed to be used with L’ANZA Powder Decolorizer and/or Cream Developers to remove these artificial pigments.It can be formulated in three strengths, depending on the amount of color to be removed.

The Color-Cleansing Shampoo contains natural, yet effective cleansing agents, including Witch Hazel, Anise Fruit, and Grapefruit Extracts. Chelators derived from Phytic Acid, along with a pH of 6.9, gently and effectively remove dyes and embedded metals. Gugo Bark provides abundant lathering. Keratin Healing System and Aloe Vera keep hair healthy. When performing a color cleanse, start with the mild formula and perform a strand test.

30g 5CG + 30g 10 Volume Healing Color Developer

Process for 30 minutes.

Mix with equal parts for desired strength. 1: Color-Cleansing Shampoo

1: Healing Powder Decolorizer

MILD: 1: Water

MEDIUM: 1: 10 Volume Healing Color Developer

MAXIMUM: 1: 20 Volume Healing Color Developer


VIBESHigh- Impact Dye TechnologyMi r ro r-Re f lec t i ve Co lo r Resu l tsVIBES is a Semi-Permanent, Direct-Dye line, separate from Healing Color.

All VIBES shades are completely intermixable, offering unlimited options for color customization. Mix VIBES Clear with any other VIBES shade to create softer, pastel hues, or use it alone for brilliant shine.


Red 6-7 (Red-Orange/Orange)

Blue 7 (Orange)

Teal 8 (Yellow-Orange)

Orange 8 (Yellow-Orange)

Yellow 9 (Yellow)

Smoke 9 (Yellow)

Magenta 10 (Pale Yellow/Yellow)

Violet 10 (Pale Yellow/Yellow)

For the most vibrant and intense color, pre-lighten to level indicated.

Blue Teal Violet Magenta Red Orange Yellow Clear Smoke

PREPARING TO USE VIBES:

• VIBES do not require developer. Mix directly from the tube, using a bowl and brush. • VIBES Clear can be mixed with any formula to soften and/or adjust the intensity of end results. • To achieve the purest most intense color, pre-lighten hair using L’ANZA Healing Powder or Cream Decolorizer. Refer to chart below as a guide, keeping in mind that any undertones will contribute to final color results.

• Apply L’ANZA Protective Barrier Cream to client’s hairline to minimize any unwanted staining. Always avoid scalp and skin during application to reduce staining.

APPLICATION OF VIBES• For best results, apply to clean hair that is dry, or slightly damp. • Use suitable gloves to protect your skin and clothing from staining.• Apply VIBES directly to hair and saturate completely avoiding scalp and skin.

• Process 15 to 30 minutes, keeping in mind that intensity is maximized at 30 minutes.

• Rinse VIBES thoroughly with water until it runs clear. Lightly shampoo with L’ANZA Healing ColorCare Color-Preserving Shampoo. Apply L’ANZA Healing ColorCare Color-Preserving Conditioner and rinse.

• Towel dry and apply L’ANZA Healing ColorCare Color-Preserving Magic Bullet or Healing ColorCare Color Guard.

• If required, use L’ANZA Haircolor Stain Remover to remove staining.

L’ANZA does not recommend mixing VIBES with any Healing Color shades, Healing Color Developer, orany similar products.


Pre-V IBES To signif icantly improve colorattachment and seal in your VIBES,use COLOR ATTACH – Step 1: ColorPre-Treatment & Step 2: ColorPost-Treatment.

(For more information, see page 48 & 49)

Post-V IBESPrescribing L’ANZA Healing ColorCareproducts will preserve and protect thelife of your VIBES.

(For more information, see page 56)

POST COLOR SERVICES

HAIRCOLOR STA IN REMOVER• Effortlessly dissolves and removes haircolor stains from skin, clothing, salon surface and tools.

• Gentle on skin, won’t cause irritation.

• Pleasing signature fragrance of Healing Color and Healing ColorCare.

HEAL ING COLORCAREExtend hair color up to 107% longer! Protect and preserve both VIBES and Healing Color, whi le ensur ing your cl ients keep their hair healthy and vibrant! Heal ingColorCare contains L’ANZA’s remarkable Flower Shield Complex to preserve haircolor longer – the same anti-fade compounds found in Healing Color and VIBES. The Keratin Healing System, plus UVA / UVB / UVC Protectors, combine to extend haircolor up to 107% longer over leading professional brands. So effective are these high-performing formulations, haircolor is guaranteed to look rich and vibrant, longer!

• Color-Preserving Shampoo – daily shampoo• Color-Preserving Conditioner – daily conditioner• Trauma Treatment – a leave-in or rinse-out treatment• Color Guard – hair color protector• Color Illuminator – hair color brightener• Silver Brightening Shampoo – controls brassiness and enhances cool tones


Documents

CODE of COLOR - L'anza Healing Haircare · CODE of COLOR. TABLE OF CONTENTS COLOR THEORY Color Perception ... guests usually notice gold and red tones. It also explains why red color