COLLARS AND NECK LINES Too low

Neck lines are made in various designs, but they should often be modified to suit the type of individual who is to wear the garment. If the neck is low, it may be too low for some individuals, and if it is high it may be more becoming if it were made lower. The broad, round face should wear the V-shaped necks and should modify round necks so as to make the face appear longer rather than broader. The same is true of the long, thin face: the V-shaped necks should be raised to the rounder type and possibly have a collar added.

Cut cautiously Be cautious when cutting a neck line. Cut the neck

higher than indicated in the pattern and mark the pattern line, but do not cut it low. A neck line cut half an inch too low may ruin the appearance of the dress on the individual. It is always possible to cut out the neck later. Material can be cut off but it cannot be put on so easily.

Neck lines and sleeves should harmonize. If the neck line has a collar, the edge of the sleeve should have a semblance of a cuff or cuff trimming. If the neck is bound as a finish, the edge of the sleeve is bound also. If the neck is faced, then the sleeve is also faced.

Binding a trimming Binding is often used as a trimming when there is no

definite neck finish in collars or drapes. When there is a collar or a partial collar in the front, back or at the sides, or when there is a draped or scarf effect, the neck and sleeves should be faced. The same finish will extend around the neck whether it is bound or faced. It will not be faced over the collar and bound over the open section.

Wide facings When wide facings are flat stitched to the right side of

the neck for a trimming, a similar trimming is often made on the sleeve. When a revers is faced, or a front facing applied, the facing extends under the fold for two inches, and is attached to the shoulder seam. This prevents the raw edge from being visible. The facing of a lapel will be on the right side of the garment when the fold is turned back. Remember this when cutting.

Narrow facings Necks and sleeves are often narrow, finished with

facings. The wider facings are cut on the same thread of material as the outer section, while a narrow facing can be cut on a true bias. (See facings.)

Collars A collar usually rests at the bone in the back of the neck

unless otherwise designed. This is especially true of the one-piece collar that opens in front. A back opening often drops lower. Individuals with short necks should avoid collar effects, for they shorten the neck. The woman with the long neck can even increase the width of the collar and make it stand higher.

Modification A collar that rolls up at the back of the neck apparently

decreases the length of the neck. This can easily be accomplished by a slight modification of the collar pattern. The collar will stand higher if the outer edge is decreased. Take a quarter-inch dart at the outer edge at the shoulder line of the collar pattern and pin this into the pattern. Do not reduce the neck size. The collar can be made to lie flat on short necks by slashing the pattern and spreading it a half inch at the shoulder line. It is always advisable to make a trial collar in muslin before cutting the material. Baste it to the dress and determine if it has the desired effect. The muslin can be changed and the material will cut from the altered muslin.

Match the thread All collar facings should be cut on the same thread of

material as the outer collar. The facing can be pieced if the material is not too thin. All joining piecing seams must be along the straight thread of material and all must be pressed open and the collar laid flat so that the two collars can be perfectly matched before being joined. Open the collars for testing. Do not measure from a half collar; it will not be a true test.

Loops If the collar will have any tailored loops or any bound

buttonholes at the edge they must be made before the facing is attached. In some tailored collars the bound buttonhole will be made on the facing, as this will be the outer section when worn. Test the placement before making.

Thin material Collars of thin material are faced with the collar facing

cut exactly like the outer collar. The seam will then be exactly on the edge.

Smaller facing Heavy material should have the under collar trimmed

back at the outer edge before stitching.

This will make the collar edge roll under and be invisible. Cut the two collars exactly alike, then trim off one-eighth inch on all outer seams. The neck seams remain the same. When the two collars are basted together the longer edge is held to the shorter edge and pinned together before basting, matching the centers. The edges will be held together when basting and the longer edge will be held in to the shorter edge, easing in the slight fullness.

Stitch the seam at the edge and, if possible, press it open. Clip all inner corners and notch outer curves and corners. At least one side of the seam can be pressed back before turning under. After the collar is turned, baste along the edge and the seam will roll under the collar and be invisible from the front. Baste the collar edge and press flat.

Applied The collar should be finished complete before it is

applied to the dress. The two edges at the neck are basted together and will be both basted to the dress. One side of the collar is not used for the finish. This makes a bulging seam under the collar and does not permit the collar to set

smoothly. Even a standing collar should be finished in this manner.

The collar is then basted to the dress and a separate facing is basted over it. This facing can be a narrow true bias cut one and a half inches wide or can be a fitted facing. This will make four thicknesses stitched at the neck line, the two collar edges, the dress, and the facing. Stitch to place, baste flat and finish. (See facings.)

Slashed openings at necks A slashed opening at the neck requires special care

when making. Any tailored loops must be made and applied before the facing is attached. The edge seam is stitched narrow, gradually narrowing the seam as it reaches the point until the seam at the point catches but two or three threads of the goods. The point will then be buttonholed with hand stitching to hold the seam firm.

Tailored collars Tailored collars and convertible collars are made

differently from the regular set-on collar as just described. There will be a joining seam along the edge that must be smooth and flat. Many of the tailored dresses are made in this manner, and all notched collars and all coat collars are made this way. If tailored methods are not used on tailored garments a homemade effect will be produced.

The collar described will be a simple coat dress with a straight collar stitched across the neck and turned back to form a revers. The coat collar will be a shaped section but will be applied in the same manner. The straight strip across the back of the neck is often used in dresses.

Sample lesson It is advisable to first make a sample collar and facing.

Cut a sample of the front and back section to below the armhole line. Also cut a facing for both the front and back section. Cut two sample collars. The matching sections must be cut on the same thread of the material. Both collars should be cut on the same thread of the goods and must be perfectly matched. Join the shoulder seams of both the outer section and also of the facing. Baste one of the collars to each section.

Joined Be sure to press open the seam at the neck line that

joined the collar to the dress and facing. This pressing is often omitted. One side of this pressed open seam will be used later and it must be perfectly flat.

The facing and collar is now ready to be attached to the other collar and to the dress. Slide the facing section over the dress section and baste the two collars together carefully, matching the center backs and the seam lines at the front. Baste all around the collar and down both sides of the front.

If the collar is a notched collar as in a coat, the inner corners of the seams should be clipped off so that the seam can be pressed open and the points will not interfere with a true basting to the point. If they do not match, the basting

should be ripped and the seams must be made to match. These seams will be basted together on the under side later.

Press open the seam This outer seam on the edge should be pressed open. If

it cannot be fumed and pressed, press back one edge of the seam at a time. Then turn, baste at the edge and press again.

The next step is important and is usually omitted by the home sewer. This is accomplished after the collar is turned. Pin the collar and facing together on the right side along the front neck seam to the shoulder, placing the pins on the collar side and parallel with the seam. This is the seam that joins the collar to the garment.

Turn the under side of the seam outward by turning the facing back until the seam is visible. Sew the two raw seam edges together with hand sewing as close to the seam line

as possible. This holds the two seams together and prevents them from slipping. Press flat.

The back The back of the neck will then be finished. This inside

basting will be continued all around the neck, hand sewing the two seams together to make a flat seam. The outer edge of the facing will then be finished. (See rules for facings.)

Pleat opening Collars with a pleat opening in front are finished

somewhat differently. Baste the two collars to place carefully, watching the center front mark on the pleat. The pleat will extend beyond the center front. This pleat will fold back and will form the facing of the pleat in front. The extended facing will remain open until the collar is basted to place.

After the collar is basted to the neck line, matching it to the center front mark, fold back the facing on the mark of the pattern for the fold and baste it across the double edge and partly extending over the collar edge. The hem will also be turned back on the facing, turning it outward, as this facing will later be turned under. This will finish the edge of the facing visible at the neck. It should have no bias binding across it. The bias binding for the collar finish will now be basted over the front facing and around the neck line over the collar edge. Start the bias at the center front and not at the edge. It should cover the edge of the facing. (See illustration.)

After the bias is also basted to place, machine stitch the neck line, starting at the front, stitching over the front facing, the bias and the collar edge. The neck line will then be clipped, and the facing and bias turned to the wrong side and basted at the neck line. The edge of the bias will then be turned under and either machine stitched all around the turned edge free from the neck before it is felled to place, or it can be slip stitched without the stitching. This bias must be narrow when finished, otherwise a fitted facing must be used.

Experiment with paper collars.

Questions—Collars and Neck Lines • Why should neck lines often be modified?

• Should the broad face wear a V-neck ?

• Should the short neck wear a high collar?

• Does a half-inch make a difference?

• How should neck lines and sleeves harmonize in finish?

• When is the neck bound?

• When is it faced?

• Does the front revers facing extend back at the neck?

• Are facings made narrow? How are they cut?

• Where does the collar rest?

• How can collars be modified for individuals?

• What is done to make a collar roll higher in the back?

• What is done to make a collar lie flatter?

• How is a collar facing cut?

• Can the facing be pieced? When?

• How is the piecing matched?

• What should be done before joining the two collars?

• Is it advisable to measure from a folded collar?

• When are tailored loops applied?

• When are the bound buttonholes made?

• What is done to the facing of collars of heavy material?

• Should the edges be trimmed on thinner material?

• How much of the edge is trimmed off