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Colour By the WGSN What's in Store team, 08 March 2013 Saturated blues Saturated blues continue to lead the brights palette... Azure and cobalt work for sporty casualwear and block colour knits... Persian blue updates tailoring... Use as a replacement for navy to update classic nautical looks... Coordinating blues in one outfit are a dramatic styling option, as seen at Drykorn Topman, London Red Primary red makes an impact throughout transitional deliveries... Bold scarlet shades add a contemporary feel to suits, cardigans and blousons... Deeper cherry tones work well for leather jackets... Pair with white for sharp contrast

Colour

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Page 1: Colour

Colour

By the WGSN What's in Store team, 08 March 2013

Saturated bluesSaturated blues continue to lead the brights palette... Azure and cobalt work for sporty casualwear

and block colour knits... Persian blue updates tailoring... Use as a replacement for navy to update

classic nautical looks... Coordinating blues in one outfit are a dramatic styling option, as seen at

Drykorn

Topman, London

RedPrimary red makes an impact throughout transitional deliveries... Bold scarlet shades add a

contemporary feel to suits, cardigans and blousons... Deeper cherry tones work well for leather

jackets... Pair with white for sharp contrast

Page 3: Colour

Saks Fifth Avenue, New York

GreyGreys lead the neutral palette across both tailoring and casualwear... Light ash looks clean and

modern on trench coats and sporty blousons while slate works well for marl T-shirts and fine twill

chinos... Wool tweed blazers draw on heritage looks... Grey acid-wash jeans offer an alternative to

classic blue

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OBSESSION

Neutral, flesh and core colours provide a backdrop to fun seaside shades of blue and green. Simple and

straightforward, repetition and obsession boosts creativity.

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MIGRATION

Colours bring to mind ropes and sand dunes and are inspired by a luxurious nomadic lifestyle. In contrast,

there is a riot of sun-faded Indian-influenced hues mixed with acidic green and yellow.

COMPRESSION

Alternating vintage and futuristic looks, faded rose, warm amber and grating green contrast modern,

almost transparent pastels. These shades are seen alongside neutrals of pencil, paper and charcoal.

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Monochrome looks and simple neutrals alongside washed pastels, warmed natural red shades and the importance of blue are the key colour messages from the menswear high-street previews.

SHORTCUTS

Monochrome: pristine crisp white and classic black inspires top-to-toe dressing or combine for a key fashion

look

Neutrals: tones of soft grey and stone have an understated smart aesthetic

Browns: warm powdered shades focus on different levels of orange such as paprika, nutmeg and ginger.

Natural tones of tobacco and tan add a sophisticated edge

Reds: washed salmon shows a new level alongside the fashion red of the season, vermilion and the

continuation of deeper bordeaux shades

Blues: pale and steel blue are the new fashion shades, while mid-blue and navy are core classics

Greens: 1950s-style pastels spearmint and pistachio have a directional, yet commercial feel, while army

green combines with simple camouflage prints

Yellows: shades of soft and washed-out vanilla and lemon. Fashion brights in tones of yellow from sunrise, to

Dijon with more muted mustard shades continuing the classic theme

Analysis

Page 15: Colour

Retro beach hut by Gayle Berry

COLOUR PANELLING

Davidelfin spring/summer 2012

PISTACHIO & VANILLA

Page 16: Colour

Richard Chai Love spring/summer 2012

WGSN ANALYSIS

Relevance: vivid summer brights were highlighted as an important colour message on the spring/summer

2012 catwalks, but it is the application of these brights in a more understated way as seen at Acne, Prada,

Martine Rose and Richard Chai that is relevant as a summer colour update

Key colours: a spectrum of 1950s-style pastels includes lemon, mango, spearmint, watermelon, pistachio,

soft pink and pale blue

Usage: solid colour usage is relevant across all product categories. Fresh pastel combinations are accented

with denim and chambray, adding a masculine edge. Caramel and toffee levels neutralise the sweeter tones,

while black or crisp white contrast as a key anchor

Details: colour-blocking and panelling provide effective commercial application on shirting, with layered sheer

fabrics adding a colour filter across more vibrant tones

Pattern: retro florals, Hawaiian prints and deckchair stripes are ideal colour vehicles for shirts, T-shirts and

shorts 

Materials: peached cottons and linens in washed and whitened finishes add a vintage mood, while pigment

and overdying diffuse intense brights

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Acne spring/summer 2012

Botanical checksVibrant tropical yarn dyes update madras shirting, multicoloured graphic checks and performance shell

fabrics. Following our Dark Botanica trend, an abstracted botanical palette of lime, turquoise and navy

offers a fresh seasonal update. Dobby weave structures add a subtle decorative element that translate

well for womenswear and kidswear.

Page 22: Colour

Tessitura Taiana Virgilio at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Bez Tekstil at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Micro dimensionalStructured, sport-luxe outerwear is softened with micro-piqués, waffles, honeycomb and geometric extra-

weft floats, illustrated in our Slow Form textile trend. The fabrics are spongy and lightweight with a soft,

cotton handle in undyed, neutral tones as well as bright white.

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Saydam Tekstil at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Kivanç Tekstil at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Linen plainsLinen is the fibre of choice for spring/summer 2014 with an abundance of raw, slubbed linens seen in

casual flats, relaxed suiting and jacket weights as well as polyester linen imitations for a performance or

technical outcome. These fabrics offer a key update to the utility cotton trend seen on the

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Tejidos Royo at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Arco Texteis SA at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Linen shirting

Linen is also incorporated into shirting fabric for slubbed and natural finishes. Soft, laundered linen and

cheesecloth make a comeback for relaxed shirts, blouses and dressweights in a soft, natural or sun-

bleached, faded palette.

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Deveaux S.A at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Soktas Dokuma at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Indigo linen

Cotton and linen blends update denim for a slubbed, cross-hatched appearance and dry touch. Undyed

linen and indigo cotton blends create a rustic colour update while performance fabrics imitate the slubbed

linen effect in technical shell fabrics.

Page 34: Colour

A&A Textile Co. LTD at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Skotas Dokuma at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Shimmer & shine

Minimal Lurex inclusions and soft glitter laminates update cotton flats, bonded outerwear and laminate

shell fabrics. Metallic yarn inclusions add a brighter shine and mouldable texture for more directional

applications.

Page 37: Colour

Schoeller Textil AG at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Frizza Spa at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Striped flatsMany mills at Premiere Vision noticed an increased demand for striped denim - a strong commercial trend

for bottomweights, casual jackets and utility styles. Classic hickory stripes are favoured but also consider

dobby textures, slubbed texture and laminated print effects as seen in our Strata trend.

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Soktas Dokuma at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Prosperity Textile (HK) Ltd. at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Dotty denim

Update chambray shirting, heavy denim and indigo dress-weights with printed polka dots, double-weave

spots and spotty dobby cloth patterns for textural surface effects.

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Forum at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Kipas Casual at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Folk stich

A retro, folk-inspired look is offered through mock leno texture, extra-warp-and-weft patterns and reverse

extra-weft floats for casual cotton shirting and dressweights. Colours are either soft and neutral or bold

and primary.

Page 46: Colour

Renauxview at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Renauxview at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Double-faced

Contrasting double-faced fabrics continue to perform well at Première Vision. For spring/summer 2014,

shirting fabrics contrast bold ginghams with plains or tartan, while performance fabrics and thin leathers

Page 47: Colour

are bonded to soft knitwear, and linen and silk/cotton blend denim is bonded to metallic laminates and

performance shells.

Arsan Textile Group at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Seiren Co. Ltd at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Page 49: Colour

Hervy Mercier Trading at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Seiren Co. Ltd at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Laminate

Matt and shine coatings are still important for casualwear. Fluorescent, rubberised coatings continue to

trend for the youth market while coated linens add a rustic look for performance qualities.

Page 52: Colour

Prosperity Textile (HK) Ltd. at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Forum at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Luxe natural fibres, a focus on linen and indigo, crisp handles, dimensional structures, and

marbled colour were some of the key messages from Première Vision this season.

CLICK for our complete coverage of this season's show. Colour directions

Page 53: Colour

Clear colour messages drive spring/summer as pastels take on a whitened look, and warm and

cool families emerge, looking strong when grouped tonally. New botanicals offer a fresh way of

looking at casualwear, and neons evolve into illuminated brights. 

Click for PV brands

TOP 5 COLOUR DIRECTIONS

Whitened pastels: colours are lightened by laundry effects or the use of white warps or yarn twists softening

brighter wefts

Aquatic blues: in cool shades of blue and green, from pastels through to brights, are worked in graduated

tones

Warmed: sunset colours become a key group, from brighter peach tones through to terracotta, rust and blood

reds

Select Report

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Natural darks: vegetal shades and traditional dyes are key for casual flats. We also revisit indigo as an

essential dark

Illuminated brights: neons step back but are still important for activewear. A new level of illuminated bright

tones joins them across product groups

Première Vision colour palette

Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Page 55: Colour

Top 5 colour directionsWHITENED PASTELS

Reflected in the Première Vision colour palette as well as WGSN's pastel level analysis from our

spring/summer 2014 global colour direction, pastels have an almost supernatural whiteness to them. 

E.Boselli & C S.p.A at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

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Lanificio Piemontese at Première Vision

Aquatic blues

Shades on the blue/green spectrum will continue in importance from autumn/winter through to

spring/summer. This colour message is seen across all product groups, with tonal effects on double-face

jersey and fancy wovens particularly on trend.

O'Jersey at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Page 63: Colour

Pastels at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Calamaï Technical Textiles at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

WarmedIn line with WGSN's spring/summer 2014 fashion forecast Neo-Geo, we see warmed earthy tones of

Terracotta and Henna alongside fiery red shades such as Lava - great for laundered flats as well as

densely dyed jersey and rich embellished lace.

Page 68: Colour

Lusi Ricamificio Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Natural darksBotanical and natural dyes such as Indigo, beetroot and kelp inspire dark yet rich colour. This trend was

first seen in WGSN's spring/summer 2014 colour direction, Unsettled Nature, and is also echoed by the

indigo, purple and dark green in the Première Vision palette. Dye effects, merged colour and

complimentary hues work well for both fancy and casual product groups.

Soktas Dokuma at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Page 72: Colour

Tejidos Royo at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Trend Forum at Première Vision spring/summer 2014

Illuminated brightsThese reverberating shades show a subtle move-on from the dominance of neon which can still be seen

for activewear. Newer tropical brights, as highlighted in WGSN's Dark Diversions colour theme for

spring/summer 2014, are starting to emerge alongside illuminated sportswear brights.

Page 79: Colour

S/S 14: Première Vision trend analysis

S/S 14: Première Vision Paris brands

S/S 14: Première Vision uncut

Reinforce your seasonal buy with this menswear rundown - in order of relevance and importance -

of the key catwalk colours. An additional fashion colour has been included where appropriate to

provide extra direction. Overview

Tailoring

Trousers

Shorts

Shirts

Jersey

Outerwear

White remains the most relevant shade for spring/summer 2013 across all men's product categories,

working equally well worn as an accent or worn head to toe. Classic tones of black and rich navy are

updated on technical fabrics and sports-luxe silhouettes, with resort combinations refreshed through

bursts of bright red and cobalt. Muted levels of grey and pale blue add an understated, smart aesthetic.

Page 80: Colour

Seasonal fashion brights include levels of yellow from sunshine to spiced Dijon, while orange tones are

more muted with peach tones looking most relevant.

SHORTCUTS

Pristine white is in abundance, relevant for all categories, worn head to toe or as an accent

Classic black and navy update sports-luxe looks

Softer levels of pale blue and grey lend a smart mood to technical fabrics

Classic resort themes elevate vibrant tones of cobalt, racing green and bright red

Seasonal fashion brights focus on tones of yellow from sunrise to Dijon

Natural tones of stone, beige and tobacco add a luxurious aesthetic

Orange tones evolve into more saturated levels of peach and salmon

Buttoned-Up: new men's book inspiration

By Ben Perdue, WGSN, 26 March 2013

The editors of Fantastic Man magazine present a book exploring the buttoned-up shirt trend, past

and present, focusing on its east London origins.

Page 82: Colour

Matthew Vant

WGSN ANALYSIS

The buttoned-up trend has had a major impact on the commercial relevance of shirting for menswear, driving

the new popularity of denim and chambray shirt s  and the all-over print shirt at mid-market level, as

smarter styling inspires new interest in casual classics

This book helps support the current importance of smart-casual styling, reflecting one of the ways that

traditional casualwear and formalwear categories are being updated in modern collections 

Buttoned-Up  by Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom is published by Penguin Books

 

Fantastic Man magazine is known for its considered and intelligent approach to talking about menswear

and its editors were chosen for this project to bring that same level of sharpness to discussing a current

styling trend for shirts. It's part of a series of books focusing on the 12 lines of London's Underground, to

mark its 150th anniversary. This book focuses on the East London Line. Alongside essays and interviews

that delve into the history of the buttoned-up trend, Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom have also

included images of inspirational musicians, collar details, east London streets and a menswear editorial

shot by Benjamin Alexander Huseby. 

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Moses Manley

This book backs up the commercial relevance of smart-casual dressing for modern menswear, reflected

at market level by a new shift towards more sophisticated details and fabrics for casualwear and an

increasingly relaxed approach to formalwear styling, perfectly illustrated by the popularity of wearing shirts

buttoned up. This is a trend that lends casual shirting a smarter edge, and updates formal shirting by

removing the tie while retaining a sense of sharpness.

Page 88: Colour

Jim Reid of The Jesus and Mary Chain

By including interviews with both the young men at the forefront of this east London-led styling trend, and

with cultural icons - including Neil Tennant of the Pet Shop Boys - whose personal style has helped

inspire the look, Buttoned-Up places this contemporary menswear movement in context. The book also

contains a large number of great black-and-white photographs featuring established and less well-known

bands and influencers, providing an invaluable resource for design inspiration.

Page 99: Colour

Source: Hero, autumn/winter 2012/13

COLOUR

Due to possible variations in your screen's output, PANTONE® Colours displayed here may not match

PANTONE-identified standard. Please consult current PANTONE® Colour Publications for accurate

colour.

S/S 13 The Story of Now men's formalwear

By the WGSN Menswear team, 22 December 2011

Postmodern art's adoption of pop culture, graphic statements and post-industrial materials

inspires a tailoring-led collection that combines rediscovered classics with fun contemporary

shape updates.

Page 100: Colour

Traditional silhouettes and patterns are subverted with extreme proportions or outrageous linings, colour

usage is fashion-focused and confident, and prints reference the OTT appeal of 80s design. Mood

Styling

Collection

Deep red, beige, and especially blues - ranging from indigo, to dawn blue and Malibu - help anchor

the palette with a commercial base. Pastel yellow and pink have a soft summery appeal but take

on a new unexpected relevance when mixed with bold brights like hot pink, apple green and burnt

sienna.

Page 101: Colour

Due to possible variations in your screen's output, PANTONE® Colours displayed here may not match

PANTONE-identified standard. Please consult current PANTONE® Colour Publications for accurate

colour.

S/S 13 men's formalwear: Wonderlab

By the WGSN Menswear team, 17 December 2011

Wonderlab formalwear has a clinical aesthetic inspired by scientific analysis. It focuses on

garment engineering and construction, sharp tailoring with pared-back styling and reconstructed

details, combined with textural surface structure and modern sheen finishes. Elements of layering

and transparency are created with colour and fabric contrast, while microscopic and molecular

organic patterns influence shirtings and linings. Mood

Styling

Collection

Page 102: Colour

Cool grey, white and mint combine with jade, mallard and vertiver green to add a laboratory

aesthetic, grounded with warmer tones of caramel, peach and deeper levels of navy and

loganberry.

Sun baked: menswear colour update

By Douglas Gilbey, WGSN, 12 June 2012

A palette of warm desert-inspired tones updates perennial favourites for relaxed summer styling.

Page 109: Colour

TAKEAWAYS

Relevance: rich terracotta tones were outlined as a key colour direction in ourspring/summer 2012 catwalks

analysis. Dried out, earth-based shades combine with ethnic colour influences, updating preppy and resort

looks

Key colour: spice rack powdered shades focus on different levels of tan, brown and burnt-orange, such as

paprika, nutmeg and ginger

Usage: mix sun-baked tones with teal and aqua for refreshing combinations. Stone, white and black provide

sharp, modern contrasts, while tone-on-tone combos have an understated, contemporary feel

Details: commercial application comes through solid colour usage on tops and bottoms, with stripes and

colour-blocked panelling providing a fail-safe vehicle for multicoloured mixes

Materials: cotton/linen tailoring is updated in earthy tones, with blazers paired with chinos or shorts. Smart

sueded skins and matt technical finishes on sporty outerwear also lend themselves to this warm palette

COLOUR-BLOCKING

Two-tone polo shirt

DARK CONTRAST

Page 111: Colour

Petar Petrov spring/summer 2012