Colouring Manual

Working safely Page 3

Set up and Equipment Page 5

Consultation Page 6-Communication Techniques-Texture and Porosity-Hair and skin tests-White Hair- Factors to consider- Consultation

Science Page 13-Depths and Tones-Colour Star-Structure of hair-The Origin of Pigment-Hair Pigmentation -Lightening Curve -How Colour works within the hair structure-Peroxide selection

Application Page 28 -Sectioning for Colouring-Semi-Permanent Colour-Regrowth Colour Application -Full head Colour application -Techniques for foiling -T section of woven high lights -Full head woven high lights -Bleach Regrowth

Colour correction techniques Page 56- Colour Refreshing - Lightening Techniques- Re-Colouring techniques

Problems, Reasons and Remedies Page 60

Glossary of terms Page 62

Check board Page 65

Head sheets Page 66

Contents

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Reflections Training Academy expect commitment from all learners to demonstrate key values and behaviours within all areas of theory, practical and within the workplace. These are reflected below:-

Values

•A willingness to learn•The completion of services in a commercially viable time•Meeting both organisational and industry standards of appearance •Ensuring personal hygiene and protection meets accepted industry an organisational requirements •A flexible working attitude •A team worker •Maintaining customer care •A positive attitude •Personal and professional ethics •The ability to self manage•Creativity Skills•Excellent verbal and non verbal communication skills •The maintenance of effective, hygienic and safe working methods •Adherence to workplace, suppliers or manufacturers instructions for the safe use of equipment , materials and products

Behaviours

•Meeting the salons standards of behaviour •Greeting the client respectfully and in a friendly manner•Communicating with the client in a way that makes them feel valued and respected•Identifying and confirming the clients expectations. •Treating the client courteously and helpfully at all times•Keeping the client informed and reassured•Adapting the behaviour to respond effectively to different client behaviour •Responding promptly to a client seeking assistance•Selecting the most appropriate way of communicating with the client•Checking with the client that you have fully understood their expectations•Responding promptly and positivity to the clients questions and comments•Allowing the client time to consider the response and give further explanation when appropriate •Quickly locating information that will help the client •Giving the client the information they need about the services or products offered by the salon•Recognising information that the client might find complicated and checking whether they fully understand •Explaining clearly to the clients any reasons why their needs or expectations cannot be met

Maintain effective and safe methods of workingWorking safely in a clean and tidy environment minimises risk of harm and injury to

yourself and others and prevents cross-contamination. It gives the client an image

of professionalism while their hair is being coloured.

Reflections Training Academy

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Working SafelyYou must always protect your client during the colouring service with a fresh,

clean gown, cape and towel. You should wear gloves when using and applying

colouring products, to prevent dermatitis and maintain healthy hands, and an

apron to protect your clothes.

To ensure the comfort of your client, sit them upright with their back against the

chair. When you are colouring the hair make sure that your balance is evenly

distributed, standing with your feet slightly apart. Place your trolley on the correct

side and avoid stretching to reach it. This will prevent neck and back problems,

fatigue and minimise the risk of injury.

Keeping your work area clean and tidyYou must keep your work area clean and tidy at all times. Make sure that your

trolley and workstation are prepared for the required colouring service and that

you are ready for the client to arrive. Sterilise your styling tools and equipment to

ensure they are hygienic and ready to use. Clean your workstation and surfaces

with detergent and water, disinfect your equipment with suitable disinfectants or

a UV light, and sterilise tools in the autoclave.

Temperature of equipmentWhen using your electrical equipment, be aware of potential hazards and follow

the Electricity at Work Regulations. You must visually check your appliances for

cracks in that main body or plug and kinks in the wires. Always label, remove and

report faulty electrical equipment.

Setup & EquipmentBrush & Bowl Apron, Gloves, Gown & Cape

Measuring cup and scalesFor accurate measuring

Hydrogen Peroxide

FoilsFor all hair colouring techniques and services

Koleston Perfect

Clips

For separating and securing sections of the hair

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Consultation- Communication

Techniques

ASK•Open questions/closed questions“How happy were you with your last colour treatment?”“Would you like a change?”

LISTEN•Lifestyle & fashion awareness•Career & Age•Clients requirements

LOOK

•Hair texture (condition – hair & scalp)•Natural shade & percentage of white hair•Faded lengths & ends•Colour tone in lengths and ends•Marked change in hair structure

TOUCH•How well cared for does the hair feel?•Hair Texture•Hair Elasticity •Hair Porosity

BODY LANGUAGE•Check body posture for underlying messages during consultation•Are they leaning forward, engaging and enthusiastic?•Arms crossed leaning back with underlying fear•Double check verbally if you feel crossed messages?

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Texture & Porosity

Texture is the

diameter of the

Hair

Porosity is the

hairs ability to

absorb and lose

moisture 8

Carrying out Elasticity test

Prior to any chemical treatment or part of the consultation process, take a single strand of damp hair and gently stretch. To test the internal structure. To test the internal structure (Cortex) of the hair.

When the hair is in good condition the hair should stretch to its normal length. If the does not return, the inner structure is damaged and will need to repair.

Hair with poor elasticicity could be further damaged further or break

off if a colour is applied.

Carrying out a Skin test

Prior to carrying out a colour service a skin test must be carried out 48 hours before (unless they have had a colour within the last 3 months) To carry this out, place a small amount of colour behind the ear.

Incompatibility test

Hair that has had previous chemical treatments may be incompatible with professional products. Some products contain a

substance called metallic salts. These can be found in colour products or compound ‘henna’ and react to professional colouring products.

If we take a hair cutting and place it in 20 parts of 6% hydrogen peroxide and one part of perm lotion we can test for the presence of such incompatible chemicals. Signs of bubbling, heating or discolouration Are a sign that we should not carry out the service.

Carrying out Porosity test

Prior to any chemical treatment or part of the consultation process.

On dry hair, take a small section of hair and using the thumb and first finger stroke hair from points to roots.

This is to test the external structure (the cuticle) of the hair and the absorption.

The hair should feel smooth. Rough hair will indicate very porous hair.

Porous Hair could be damaged further by chemical services or may result in chemical process being uneven and fading quickly.

Hair & Skin Tests

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The percentage of white hair will determine the choice of colour.

For example:

• You can achieve 100% white hair coverage with permanent colour

below the depth of an 8/0 The colour you select is vital in the result achieved. A semi permanent colour can achieve up to 50% white coverage.

A quasi permanent colour can achieve up to 75% white hair coverage. Semi and temporary colours will blend white hair up to 15%. Please refer to manufacturers instructions for specific guidance

• In some cases an intense depth would need to be used from the

colour range e.g. 44/0 or 4/0. Most colour ranges will have specialist colours for white coverage.

• Warm/red/copper temporary and semi-permanent colours cannot be used on white hair as the colour result colour will be too bright

•If hair is resistant you can pre-soften by applying 6% peroxide on the

resistant area before colouring, dry it and then colour as normal.

• The brighter, warmer shades of some permanent or quasi colours have to mixed with natural/base colours to prevent the final result being too bright.

White Hair

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• Temperature: Will heat be needed to speed up the development time? Is the room warm or cool. Do you need to adjust the application method? When lightening hair, mid length and ends can be applied first, before the regrowth application as heat will come from the head.

• Existing colour: How light or dark is the natural depth? How many shades depth are you lightening/adding depth?

• The percentage of white: Has the hair got 10%, 15%, 50%, 100% white hair? Do you need to use a different colouring product?

• The test results: Is the hair suitable for the colour selected? Will the condition be compromised?

• The strength of hydrogen peroxide: How many shades of lift is required? Is white hair coverage needed to achieve an even result.

• The porosity of hair: Will you need to use a semi? Is permanent colour or a colour refreshing technique needed?

• The length of hair: How much product will you need to mix?

• The skin tone: Use and identify the client skin tone to select a colour that is a complimentary tone.

Factors to Consider

when Colouring

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12

13

Understanding

Depths and TonesTONE

DEP

TH

Depth

Indicates dark or light

Tone

Indicates the tonal character of the shade.

Here we can see the depth or base of a colour from 2/ - 10/ and the tone

from /0- /9.

At the lighter depth the tones are brighter, as the depth gets darker the

tones become more subtle.14

RED

Primary

YELLOW

Primary

Rules of the colour star•The colour star can be divided into warm and cool colours.

•Colours that are opposite each other on the colour star will neutralise each other. These

are known as opposite colours.

•The principle of opposite colours is used in hairdressing when dealing with colour

correction e.g if the hair is too yellow, violet is used to reduce the yellow tone. Red is used

to neutralise a green tone.

GREEN

Secondary

ORANGE

Secondary

VIOLET

secondary

BLUE

Primary

Colour Star

The spectrum of colours are:• Red • Orange • Yellow • Green • Blue • Violet

Primary colours: Red – Blue - YellowSecondary colours: Green – Orange – Violet

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Structure of the Hair

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The origin of pigment

Scalp Cuticle

Medulla

Bulb

Blood Supply

papilla

CortexCuticle

Keratinocytes

Melenocyte

Melanin

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Melenocyte = Cell that produces Melanin

Keratinocytes = Cell that produces Keratin

Hair Pigmentation

Pigmentation

Pigments of colour are added to the hair early in the

growth process. These pigments are made of a

substance called Melanin

Melanin gives hair its natural coloured appearance

The pigment granules in fully formed hair contain two

key types of Melanin:

Eumelanin:

Black/Brown (Ashen)

has larger pigment.

The amount of Eumelanin

determines the depth of the

hair (how light or dark it is)

Pheomelanin:

Red/Yellow (warm) has

smaller pigment. The

amount of Pheomelanin

in the hair determines

the tone of the hair (the

colour you see)

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Natural Blonde Pigment

Picture 1. Blonde hair

Variation of depth and tone multitonal

Picture 2. Magnified hair

Variation of depth

Picture 3. Colour sitting on Cortex

Pheomelanin & Eumelanin. Higher ratio of pheomelanin in blondes.

Picture 4. Enlarged version of distribution of pigment

Far away from cuticle, shape of pheomelanin melansome is spread out and buried deep in cortex.

Picture 5. Pigment Cell - Melanocyte

Close up of a pheomelanin melansome

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Natural Red Pigment

•The first type of pigment is generally smaller and appears very different when inspected under a microscope.

•This pigment looks like knotted clumps of thread or as if it has tiny lamellae or scales.

•A chemical analysis shows that it contains iron which is not found in Eumelanin.

•This pigment appears as blonde or red in hair and is called Pheomelanin. (red yellow pigment)

Picture 1. Red Hair.

Varies in depth but not as overloaded with tone.

Picture 2. Magnified hair

Very similar 2 strands high concentration of Pheomelanin

Picture 3.

Cortex is full of a high concentration of pheomelanin,

Picture 4. Enlarged version of distribution of pigment

High in concentration but also some pheomelamim melansome entangled together. Different shapes and sizes. Resistant

Picture 5. Pigment Cell -Melanocyte

P5 based on this

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Natural Black Pigment

•Every head of hair contains hairs of different thickness and shape, as well as a variety of colours, although this will sometimes be so slight that the eye will not notice it.

•Europeans have , on average one hundred thousand hairs on the head, varying in shape, size and colour. The general colour range is from medium blonde through to medium brown.

•Asian or African hair on the other hand, has pigment within the cuticle as well, which accounts for the colour being so dark. Melanin particles are distributed throughout the hair shaft from the inside outwards. There is more pigment in the outer layers of the cortex than the inner ones. In naturally red hair, the pigment is often concentrated towards the centre of the cortex.

•The second type of pigment is darker in colour, appears brown through to black. This is reasonable for depth. Depending on the amount of pigment hair can vary in colour from lightest blonde to darkest brown, appearing almost black. This pigment is called eumelanin (brown-black pigment)

Picture 1. Black Hair.

Dense & dark

Picture 2. Magnified hair

Both same colour

Picture 3. High concentration of Emuelanin smaller concentration of phemelanin

Picture 4. Enlarged version of distribution of pigment

Nat pigment sits in cuticle & the cortex. Easier to lift.

Picture 5. Pigment Cell - Melanocyte

Granular in shape eumelanin melansome

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Natural Brown Pigment

Picture 1. Brown Hair.

Healthy hair has an intact cuticle which reflects light. Light also passes through the cuticle. At the same time, the pigment can be seen through the cuticle. The combination of this produces the colours tone.

Picture 2. Magnified hair

Studies of hair pigment using electron and light microscopes, as well as chemical investigations show that there are two different types of pigment. In other words, there are two types of melanin. These two pigments produce the variety of natural hair colours we know.

Picture 4. Enlarged version of distribution of pigment

High concentration of emelanin melansome Granular in shape closer to cuticle.

Picture 5. Pigment Cell - Melanocyte

Pebble shaped dense rounded.

Picture 3. Eumelanin molecule

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LIGHTENING CURVE

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The lightening curve indicates the exposure of underlying pigments

during the lightening process. This may help you neutralise unwanted tone produced through lightening

It may also help you to replace the lost tone when re-colouring or pre-pigmenting

Temporary colour

Large colour molecules on the

outside of the cuticle. Lasts

one shampoo. Can stay longer

if the hair is porous

Semi-permanent colour

Large and small colour granules

penetrate the cuticle and lie on

the outer edge of the cortex.

Lasts 6 shampoos. Can only

darken or tone

How Colour works

Within the hair structure

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Quasi colour

The addition of weak hydrogen

peroxide allows colour to enter the

outer cortex. Lasts up to 24 shampoos

and gradually fades (mixed molecules)

Permanent colour

Tiny colour granules are mixed with

hydrogen peroxide. The small colour

granules swell, join together and

become trapped deep in the cortex.

Grows out

Bleach

Natural colour molecules (melanin)

are oxidised to form colourless

oxy-melanin. Grows out

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Peroxide Selection:

Peroxide Product Ratio

0% True Semi Adds Depth & Tone

Pastel

Toning Adds tone

1:2 ratio

1.9% Semi Adds depth & tone

Adds shine

1:2 ratio

4% Quasi Adds depth & tone

Adds shine

1:2 ratio

6% Permanent Adds depth & tone

Same depth

1 shade lift coverage of

white

1:1 ratio

9% Permanent Upto 2 shades lift

1:1 ratio

12% Permanent Upto 3 shades lift

1:1 ratio

Special blonde 4-5 shades lift

1:2 ratio

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Natural hair is PH acidic, approximately PH 4.5 to PH 5.5 on the PH scale. Colouring products are PH alkaline and after completion of the service the pH balance of the hair must be restored.

This can be achieved by using a pH balanced conditioner. The pH balanced conditioner will:

• Restore the pH balance of the hair

• Close the cuticle to avoid colour fade

• Allow the hair to shine

• Stop the oxidation process, therefore avoiding creeping oxidation which can lead to the hair colour becoming lighter.

If you do not restore the PH balance of the hair the cuticle remains lifted and this makes the hair feel rough and brittle.

Pre-chemical treatments These conditioners are:

• often in the form of a spray

• applied to the hair before the colour service

• left in the hair – not rinsed away

• used to even out uneven porosity

Post-chemical treatments:

These conditioners are:

• applied following the colour service• usually pH balanced• will restore the pH balance to the hair• close the cuticle• make hair shine

Why use Anti Oxy

Conditioner?

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28

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Vertical parting.

This section runs from the centre front hairline to the centre of the nape

Horizontal parting.

This section runs horizontally across the head. This can be across the crown, at the nape or more commonly from ear to ear.

Diagonal partings.

This section runs diagonally from left to right or right to left.

This is usually positioned to follow the shape of the head.

Sectioning for colouring

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Vertical and Horizontal partings can be called hot cross bun sectioning.

This technique is used for all basic regrowth and full head colour applications.

V- Parting.

This parting allows you to place colour according to the shape of the head and can be used creatively for placement of colour.

T section/ half head foiling.

This is used when sectioning in preparation for a 6 section woven highlighted application.

Full head foiling.

This is used when sectioning the hair in preparation for a 9 section woven full head of highlighted application.

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Semi-Permanent colour

A true semi-permanent colour is applied to the hair without the introduction of hydrogen peroxide. It can be applied as a toner, introduction to colour or a refreshing technique.

Most semi-permanent colours will last for 6-10 washes and provide high shine and can be used alongside other colour when layered up.

Before the colour is applied, pre shampoo the hair.

Colour intensity will be increased on application of dry hair.

Note- Example used is Wella Color Fresh.

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On pre-shampooed hair, follow manufactures instructions on application. When applicator bottle provided, use nozzle to run strips of the product along the scalp from hairline to nape.

Continue until the hair has an even application of product.

Work the colour through the remaining hair using a shampooing rotary motion until all of the hair has colour evenly distributed.

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Use a wide tooth comb to comb the product through to ends to ensure even application.

Leave to develop according to manufacturer’s instruction, rinse and condition if required.

Finished Result

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Regrowth colour application step by step

Begin by gowning up correctly, using PPE and applying barrier cream to the hairline.

Once your selected colour choice has been prepared, you may begin.

Starting at the hairline take a centre vertical parting to the nape.

Start applying your colour choice on both sides of parting to the visible regrowth area. Do not overlap colour as this will create an unwanted band of colour bulid up.

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Follow this onto each side of the head taking horizontal sections from ear to ear.

Continue to apply the chosen colour to the visible regrowth area on both sides of the parting.

Take small diagonal sections starting at the crown area to create a triangle. Apply chosen colour to both sides of the section at the visible regrowth.

Follow diagonal sections through to the nape area applying colour on both sides of the section at the visible regrowth.

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Follow the same process on the other side to complete the back section.

Starting with one side of the head at a time, at the crown work in the same diagonal sections towards the hairline working away from the face.

Once each quarter is complete, lastly apply the chosen colour around the perimeter of the hairline to ensure complete coverage.

This can be done with the brush or with colour applied to the comb. The comb application will minimise staining around the hairline if using a lower depth.

If colouring stubborn or resistant hair, hairline may be applied first. However when using a lightener, hairline MUST be applied last.

On completing your application use stain remover and cotton wool to remove any unwanted colour staining to the skin.

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Finished Result

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Full head colour application

As seen in the Regrowth application, part the hair from the centre of the hairline to the centre of the nape and apply colour to either side of the parting.

Continue horizontally from the crown to the ear on each side of the head.

Starting at the back of the head at the nape, take diagonal sections working up towards the crown.

Apply colour to both sides of the section from root to point ensuring an even and thorough application, placing the coloured hair onto the plastic cape.

Repeat process to the remaining back section working from the nape to the crown.

With a full head colour you should always be working away from the face in order to minimise colour staining on the face or surrounding areas.

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Once both back sections are complete, move onto the front sections. Take diagonal sections starting at the crown working away from the face. Paint your colour onto both sides of the section from root to point ensuring even coverage and thorough application.

At completion, the hairline is painted with colour to ensure complete coverage.

* Note: If covering grey or resistant hair, apply colour to most resistant area first

Finished Result

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Techniques for foiling

Slice.

Take a fine to medium section of hair place on a foil and apply your colour choice.

A contrasting effect will be created.

Weave.

From your fine to medium slice, weave out hair with use of a pin tail comb. Drop the unwanted hair and place your weave on a foil and apply your colour choice.

A natural effect will be created.

Back to back.

Using the slicing technique place fine to medium sections of hair onto a foil and apply your colour choice. Without leaving hair in between the packets repeat until all hair within the section is placed in foils.

A Striking effect will be created.

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Singles.

Used to visually place colour in the hair through creative placement of colour.

Working up in horizontal sections from temple to temple take small triangle sections place on a foil and apply your colour choice.

Fold the foil into a triangle shape and continue the process around the upper head.

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T-Section of Woven Highlights

The hair is neatly divided into 4 sections. The parting section is evenly placed through the parting at the top of the head, one continuing to the crown and a section either side above the ear. Ensure that your section is no wider than a foil, with even width.

The crown section is your first section to weave. The thickness of the weave will be dependent on the hair texture, density and desired effect.

Starting at the bottom of the section take a slice of hair with the pin tail comb. Weave the tail of the comb through the slice in an up and down motion until an even weave is achieved.

Before starting your T section, ensure a thorough consultation including hair growth patterns and the clients position of the parting. This may affect the placement of sectioning.

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Keeping the comb in your hand, place the woven slice of hair onto the matte side of the foil and lie the hair flat against the head.

Using a small amount of product on your tint brush, stroke colour from the root to ends, leaving a small gap at the top of the foil to avoid colour seepage onto the root area.

Lightening product should not be overlapped onto pre-lightened hair and only painted onto virgin hair.)

With the pin tail comb, secure your foil into place with a half way up towards the root and then fold in each side to secure the packet in place during development.

Repeat the process by taking a new slice and weaving out an even weave on your next section. This time, leave the woven hair out of the packet as natural hair left in-between the packets . This will result in a natural effect.

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Once the back section is complete, follow the same process through the side sections, starting at the bottom at the ear and working up to your parting section.

On completion of side sections, a slice is then taken to weave from the parting section at the crown. Working towards the half way of the section.

Once half way, get your client to face you and then work from the front of the hairline through the remaining hair.

The parting is done last, unless the hair in this area is resistant.

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On completion, the hair through the top and side are foiled, leaving the hair in between out.

The colour is now allowed to develop according to manufacturer’s instructions.

(Please note that added heat should be avoided when using lightener to avoid expansion and seepage.)

Finished result

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Full head Woven Highlights

Before the colour, the hair is sectioned into 9. Two sections at the centre of the back, two sections either side behind the ear, one section just above the ear and a section equally place through the natural parting.

If the parting is naturally worn on the side, the top section would still sit equal sides of the parting. The other sections would elongate or shorten to sit neatly alongside.

Starting at the nape at the back centre section, a slice of hair is taken by running a pin tail comb closely along the scalp and lifted up away from the rest of the hair.

7

2 3

45 6

9

45 6

1

8

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From that slice, the hair is then evenly woven using the tail of your comb. The size of the weave will be dependent on the hair texture, density and desired result.

A fine weave will create a natural effect, a thicker weave will create a more noticeable effect.

The unwoven hair drops and remains left out in between the packets for a natural finish.

A foil or meche is then placed under the weave with the tail of the comb or with your hand. The chosen colour is then applied at the root area, leaving a small gap for expansion during development. Then using the remaining colour on the brush, the product is applied to the mid lengths or ends if required.

Using the comb, the foil is then folded in half, then at each side to secure the packet during development.

Be aware that too much flattening may result in product seepage.

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Continue to work up the section ensuring to leave the unwoven hair left out in between each section.

Keep your sections the same size and width to maintain an even and methodical application.

Once section one is complete move on to the bottom side sections, again starting at the nape and working up.

Continue the same method through to sections four, five and six until the back section is complete.

Move now to section 7 & 8 above each ear. Starting at the bottom of the section and working up.

9

7 45

12

7

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Work through both sides until you have the top section (9) remaining.

Getting your client to position their head forward start weaving sections from the crown forward until you reach half way towards the hairline.

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Once half way through your top section, return your clients head to an upright position and do the remaining half of the section working from the hairline.

Please note that sectioning and starting points may vary dependant on creative colour placement and tailoring the application to your client’s needs.

Completed full head of foils.

Allow the foils to develop undisturbed.

Please note; Lightener must only be applied to virgin hair and not previously lightened hair. Varying peroxide strength with lighteners should result in even development, if you need to remove some sections before full development, make sure that you avoid disturbing sections that still have development time to prevent seeping and bleeding.

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Finished Result.

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Bleach Regrowth colour application.

Before starting your bleach regrowth always ensure that I skin test has been carried out and that the condition of the hair allows you to carry out the service.

Bleach scalp applications should only ever be carried out with a scalp bleach designed to sit slightly away from the scalp to avoid irritation.

The choice of peroxide application with scalp bleach is pastel, 1.9%, 4% or 6%. A peroxide of any higher strength is unsuitable for use on the scalp.

As with a permanent regrowth colour application, hair is sectioned into a hot cross bun section technique. Painting the bleach onto the back section first.

Bleach is only ever applied to the visible virgin hair and product should never be overlapped in order to avoid potential structural damage to the pre lightened mid lengths and ends.

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Starting at the back take small horizontal sections at the crown and apply the bleach to both sides of the regrowth.

Keep working down towards the nape taking extra fine sections with a tail comb.

Continue to paint bleach on to both sides of the section to ensure even coverage and neat application.

Follow on by completing the other back section in the same way and follow through with the front two sections working from the crown to the hairline.

Once the four quarters of the hair have the regrowth colour applied, ensure that the hair line is left until last. This will minimise the structural damage to the most delicate area of the head. Carefully complete the application by neatly applying bleach to the hairline.

Once complete, lift the hair slightly away from the scalp to allow air to flow evenly to help even development.

Do not apply heat to any bleach colour application. Visually develop until the warmth is removed and you have achieved your target result. The maximum lift achieved is a very pale yellow.

Please refer to lightening curve.

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Once target result has been achieved, you may wish to tone the whole head to neutralise warmth and unwanted tone. Once the bleach has been rinsed, shampooed and conditioned, remove excess water and apply methodically using hot cross bun sectioning. In some cases toner may be applied to root area or mid length and ends first.

Warning, toners may grab to porous areas in lightened hair.

Following manufacturer’s instructions, remove the toner, rinse and condition.

Style as required.

Finished Result

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Extra Techniques

Peigne meche (pen meche):The use of a specially designed comb with different sized gaps for colouring freehand high lights or low lights onto short hair. Good for creative placement of colour, coverage of grey around the hairline or a subtle alternative to foil or cap highlights. Advised to start from the bottom of the head working up during a whole head application.

Spatula:A flat plastic paddle with a combed end. This is held against the root hair of a section of hair where the paddle supports the application of colour before dragging the combed end down the lengths of the hair to create creative colour or lightening effects. Advised to start from the bottom of the head working up if a whole head application.

Ombré:A dip dye or two tone effect colour application, using a lightener and toner application partway down the hair length. Applied with either a spatula, in foil or meche, on back combed hair or free hand, pulling colour through from the mid lengths to ends. Application must be gradual and shattered to create a soft bespoke finish.

Reflections Training AcademyRe-colouring Techniques

Pre-Pigmentation with Koleston Perfect

Using Koleston Perfect Special Mix

•5-30cm of Koleston Perfect Special Mix OR 15ml Red/Gold tint

•60ml of warm water

•Apply where necessary

•Leave for 10-15 minutes

•Blot excess product with tissue and apply Koleston Perfect

•Target shade or Anti-Fade colour bath

•Apply to dry or pre-shampooed hair depending on technique selected

Pre-Pigmentation with Colour Touch

Using Colour Touch Special Mix

•5-10mls of Colour Touch Special Mix + 60mls of Colour Touch 1.9% Emulsion

•Develop as normal

•Blot off excess

•Re-colour with target shade

Step 1 Section the hair from ear to ear

Step 2 Pick up the colour with a sponge

Step 3 Begin applying colour at the back of the head

Continue until the hair is completely covered

Post Pigmentation

•5-30cm of Koleston Perfect Special Mix

•60ml of warm water

•15ml 9% Welloxon Perfect

•Apply where necessary & develop for 5-15 minutes

Using Perfecton

•Mix 20ml of wither Perfecton /03, /4 or /43 + 40ml water

•Apply to the desired areas

•Dab off excess product. Style as usual

•Perfecton – can be used neat or diluted. Depth dependant

•10/0-12/0 , 250mls water + 5ml

•9/0, 250ml + 10ml

•8/0, 250ml + 15ml

•7/0 – 2/0, 250ml + 20ml

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Reflections Training Academy

Colour RefreshingMinimum Fade: Comb Through

Step 1: Complete target shade root application

Step 2: Dampen the hair and emulsify the colour to begin

Step 3 Working from the crown area take a section of the hair and work the colour through the mid-

lengths and ends by massaging or combing with warm water.

Step 4: Continue following the brickwork pattern

Step 5: Repeat this process of either massaging or combing through the colour for the whole section.

Medium/Maximum Fade: Colour Touch

Step 1:Apply target shade to root area

Step 2 After root application, apply the colour from the roots through the mid-lengths and ends using a

flask.

Step 3: Work the colour into the hair using the hands.

Step 4: Continue through the back applying the colour using the brickwork method

Step 5: Then continue through the front applying the colour in the same way

Step 6: Rinse off excess colour after development time.

Maximum Colour Refreshing

Normal to Porous hair Koleston Rinse

15-30ml of tint (30 mls if red)

15ml 9% Welloxon Perfect

60ml warm water

Mix and apply to mid lengths and ends on completion of re-growth application

Develop as normal

Very porous hair Anti Fade colour bath

15ml of tint

45ml warm water

Mix and apply immediately on completion of re-growth application

Allow full development time

Stabilising Rinse:

Mix 10ml 9% Welloxon Perfect

40ml warm water

Apply to lengths and ends

Develop for a further 5 minutes

Exceptions

When using copper/red

shades, use equal parts

Koleston Perfect and warm

water. When using Ashen

shades on the re-growth, use a

natural shade for anti fade

colour bath.

Watch point

The porosity of the hair and the

target shade will affect your

refreshing technique

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Reflections Training Academy

Lightening TechniquesCleansing Rinse

The hair is pre-shampooed to open the cuticle

Blondor Multi Blonde powder or Blondor Multi Blonde granules are mixed with warm water to a pouring consistency. As bleach becomes active when wet.

This is applied to the hair with a brush or a sponge onto the required areas.

The hair lightens over the development time before the products are shampooed away.

The hair is now ready to be recoloured.

Mild Lightener

1 part Blondor and 3 parts Welloxon Perfect Pastel Developer are mixed and applied to the required areas of the hair.

The development occurs until the areas have lightened sufficiently the product is then shampooed away.

The hair can now be coloured to your target shade.

Koleston Perfect 10/0

Mix in the normal way with 12% and apply to dark areas.

Develop up to 60 minutes

When sufficient lift has been achieved (warm in tone), comb excess off with large tooth comb, leaving approximately 20% tint on the hair (do not rinse).

Now colour to your target shade.

Cleansing Shampoo

1 Scoop or 30 grams Blondor Lightening powder/Blondor lightening granules.

30ml 6% Welloxon Perfect

60ml warm water

15ml shampoo

Apply to pre-shampooed hair.

Adjust water content if required.

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Problem Reason RemedyUneven result * Uneven application

* Sections too large

* Incorrect mixing

= Spot tint uneven areas

Under processing * Product not left for

sufficient time to develop

* Hydrogen peroxide

strength too low

* Uneven application

* Resistant hair

= Reapply bleach or

colour if hair condition

allows

= Pre-soften the hair, if

resistant for next

application

Over processing * Hydrogen peroxide

strength too high

* Hair in poor condition

before colour

* Product left on hair too

long

= Treat with restructurants

and penetrating

conditioning treatments

Deterioration of hair

condition

* Colour or bleach not rinsed

from the hair

* Over processing

= Treat with restructurants

and penetrating

conditioning treatments

Coverage not good on

white hair

•Hair resistant to tint

• Tint under processed

*Uneven application

•Incorrect product choice

= Pre-soften hair in future

= Re-apply product

= Spot tint areas not

covered

=Change product choice

Problems, Reasons & Remedies

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Problem Reason Remedy

Hair breakage *Over porous hair

*Over processed

*Over lapping of bleach

product

*Colour combed through

too often

*Incorrect selection of

product – too strong

*Hydrogen peroxide

strength too high

= Remove

immediately

= Cut if possible

= Use restructurants/deep

conditioning penetrating

conditioner

Result too yellow *Under processed

*Base too dark

*Incorrect selection of

product

= Do elasticity and porosity

test. If result is good, re-

bleach

= Apply toner to subdue

yellow tones

Skin staining *Colour product not

Emulsified

*Too much colour product

applied at hairline

*Colour product not

removed

*No barrier cream applied

= Skin stain remover

= Re-shampoo

Seepage of product *Incorrect application of

materials and products

* Too much product applied

* Incorrect mixing of product

= weave natural colour

back in at roots

= Spot correct areas of

seepage

Scalp irritation * Peroxide too strong

*Client allergic to tint

Colour not rinsed or

removed correctly

= Remove immediately

with cool water

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Glossary of Terms•Adverse hair and scalp conditions: Limiting factors that have an effect on what and how

services are delivered to clients, e.g. head lice, psoriasis, alopecia, cysts, impetigo, scars, moles etc.

•Bleach: A hairdressing product that dissolves/removes natural colour pigments from hair.

•Chemically damaged hair: Hair condition worsened by the effects of chemical processing.

•Chemically treated hair: Hair that has been previously permed, coloured, bleached or relaxed.

•Client care: Providing service to salon customers in a way that promotes goodwill, comfort, satisfaction and interest, which ultimately results on regular return visits from clients.

•Client consultation: A service which is usually provided before the client has anything done to their hair. Consultation will find out what the client wants, identify any styling limitations, provide advice and maintenance information and formulate a plan of action.

•Col (RG or FH): Appointment abbreviation for colouring, either regrowth application or full head.

•Communication: Listening, hearing and responding to the client.

•Contrasts: A marked difference (e.g. between colours, say black and white.)

•Contra-indication: Something that signifies that an adverse reaction has occurred.

•Cortex: The inner part of the hair where permanent colour is deposited and where perms make physical changes to the hair.

•Depth: The lightness or darkness of hair.

Full head application of colour or bleach: A colouring technique that requires a sequence of

applications to the mid-lengths, ends and regrowth area.

Hair colour: The resultant effect from two colour aspects; depth, the lightness or darkness of a

colour and tone, the degree of red, gold, ash etc. within the hair.

Hair tests: Tests used to determine contra-indications to hair services.

Hair texture: Texture refers to the ‘thickness or thinness’ of individual hairs: coarse, medium or fine.

Henna: From a shrub with leaves that yield a red dye ‘Henna’.

HL or H/L: Appointment abbreviation for highlighting.

ICC (International Colour Chart) system: A tabular system for identifying hair colours made by different manufacturers by their depth and tone.

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Glossary of TermsIncompatibility: Refers to incompatible chemistry. When incompatibilities are present within the hair- e.g. colour restorers, ‘Just for men’ or compound henna- no organic chemicals can be used.

Incompatibility test: A method of testing hair to see if previous chemical treatments are compatible with those used with professional salons.

Influencing factors: Anything which could affect the hairdressing service.

Lighteners: Lighteners are products that remove natural tone from hair such as bleach, or high lift colour.

Manufacturer’s instructions: Explicit guidance issued by manufacturers or suppliers of products or equipment, concerning their safe and efficient use.

Para-phenylenediamine: A dye compound found in many permanent colours.

Permanent tint: A penetrating colour product that adds synthetic pigments to natural hair until it grows out.

Personal protective equipment (PPE): You are required to use and wear the appropriate protective equipment during chemical services or any situation where personal harm may be encountered.

PH: The presence of positive hydrogen ions with a compound which denotes its levels of acidity or alkalinity.

Porous hair: Hair that has lost surface protection, therefore having a greater absorption and less resistance to chemicals and products. This affects the hair’s manageability, handling and ability to hold in a style.

Quasi-permanent colours: Colour products which should be treated as permanent colours in terms of application, testing and future service.

Strand test: A test carried out upon hair prior to chemical services to determine the effects of processing.

Temporary colour: Colour added to hair that lasts until the next wash.

Tone: The aspects of colouration of the hair, normally grouped into similar tints, i.e. copper tones, red tones, ash tones.

The Semi-permanent colour: A semi-permanent colour is not mixed with hydrogen peroxide. It only penetrates to the lower cuticle and therefore lasts for a few washes.

Virgin hair: Hair that has not been chemically treated.

CHECKER

BOARD

I know how to prepare clients

before undertaking any chemical

service

I know how to prepare the

equipment and materials before

they are used upon the client

I can carry out Colour consultation and understand the

Colour selection process

I know and understand the

science in respect to coloring and

bleaching

I always carry out

tests prior to any new coloring

treatment

I know and

understand the health, safety and hygiene risks that

clients are exposed to in chemical work

I know and

understand the potential problems

and risks of not testing hair before

chemicals are introduced

I know and

understand the effects that coloring products have upon

the hair

I know how to work with the natural lie and fall of the hair

I know how to recognise and

implement Colour correction

procedures by removing unwanted

tones

I know and understand the ways of diluting hydrogen

peroxide to make other strengths

I know how to carry out a variety of full head and partial

coloring techniques on a variety of hair

lengths

I always carry out working practices according to the salon's health and

safety policy

Preparing for assessment checklistRemember to:- Prepare clients correctly for the services you are going to carry out Put on the protective wear available for styling and dressing hair Listen to the clients requirements and discuss suitable courses of action Adhere to the safety factors when working on client’s hair Keep the work areas clean, hygienic and free from hazards Promote the range of services, products and treatments within the salon Wear personal protective equipment Work carefully and methodically through the processes of coloring hair

Place, position and direct the hair appropriately to achieve the desired effect Communicate what you are doing with the client as well as your fellow staff members

Try this..

What test is this and

what part of the hair

are you checking

and why?

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Reflections Training Academy

Reflections Training Academy

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Reflections Training Academy

Unit 2a/2b Commercial Street

BirminghamB1 1RS

TEL: 0121 643 2147FAX: 0121 643 8276

Reflections Training Academy

15a Colston Street

BristolBS1 5AP

TEL: 0117 922 1440

FAX: 0117 910 5777

www.reflectionstraining.co.ukReflections, Reflections House, 26 Oakfield Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2AT.House of Clive (Hair and Beauty) limited.

VAT reg No: 416 8832 34.Registered in England. No: 1064068

This activity is part-financed by the European Union through the European Social Fund (ESF). ESF supports activities to

extend employment opportunities and develop a skilled workforce