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COMPETITIONS COMPETITORS FACE OFF IN A LUCID ABSINTHE CLASSIQUE VERSUS NOUVEAU COCKTAIL SHOWDOWN by Jesse Hom-Dawson / photos by Brent Campanelli ew spirits are so steeped in history and controversy as absinthe. While once inaccurately considered to have dangerous halluci- nogenic properties, it was banned in the United States and many other countries by 1915. Although the ban was lifted in most countries in the 1990s, only half-hearted attempts had been made at legalization in the United States. It wasn’t until Lucid Absinthe’s Master Distiller T.A. Breaux stepped up to the plate that a serious campaign for absinthe’s legalization began. “I’ve been distilling since 2004 in France, and it was crazy to me that I couldn’t see my product in my own country,” Breaux explains. “I was approached by New York lawyer Jared Gurfein about contacting the U.S. government to lift the ban. I had the science and data to support a compelling argument, which we presented to the TTB [Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau]. I think the TTB initially hoped we’d go away, but we were intent on getting to the heart of the matter.” It was this long and difficult debate that led to Lucid Absinthe becoming available in the U.S. On March 5, 2007, Breaux and Gurfein were able to get the ban lifted and make absinthe legal in the U.S. That day became known as National Absinthe Day. Parlez-Vous Absinthe? Lucid Master Distiller and founder T.A. Breaux and Absinthe Portfolio Brand Master Milo Rodriguez. c

COMPETITIONS Parlez-Vous Absinthe? · 100 / the tasting panel / july 2016 Maddie Haddad, Bartender at Estrella in West Hollywood, CA “The inspiration for this cocktail is from Ester

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Page 1: COMPETITIONS Parlez-Vous Absinthe? · 100 / the tasting panel / july 2016 Maddie Haddad, Bartender at Estrella in West Hollywood, CA “The inspiration for this cocktail is from Ester

98  /  the tasting panel  /  july 2016

COMPETITIONS

COMPETITORS FACE OFF IN A

LUCID ABSINTHE CLASSIQUE VERSUS

NOUVEAU COCKTAIL SHOWDOWNby Jesse Hom-Dawson / photos by Brent Campanelli

ew spirits are so steeped in history and controversy as absinthe. While once inaccurately considered to have dangerous halluci-nogenic properties, it was

banned in the United States and many other countries by 1915. Although the ban was lifted in most countries in the 1990s, only half-hearted attempts had been made at legalization in the United States. It wasn’t until Lucid Absinthe’s Master Distiller T.A. Breaux stepped up to the plate that a serious campaign for absinthe’s legalization began.

“I’ve been distilling since 2004 in France, and it was crazy to me that I couldn’t see my product in my own country,” Breaux explains. “I was

approached by New York lawyer Jared Gurfein about contacting the U.S. government to lift the ban. I had the science and data to support a compelling argument, which we presented to the TTB [Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau]. I think the TTB initially hoped we’d go away, but we were intent on getting to the heart of the matter.”

It was this long and difficult debate that led to Lucid Absinthe becoming available in the U.S. On March 5, 2007, Breaux and Gurfein were able to get the ban lifted and make absinthe legal in the U.S. That day became known as National Absinthe Day.

Parlez-Vous

Absinthe?

Lucid Master Distiller and founder T.A. Breaux and Absinthe Portfolio Brand Master Milo Rodriguez.

cAbsinthe?

COMPETITORS

LUCID ABSINTHE

NOUVEAU

approached by New by New by ban. I had

presented to the hoped we’d this long and

On March absinthe legal

Absinthe?

Distiller and founder Brand Master

cCOMPETITORS

LUCID

NOUVEAU

approachedto lift the lift the lift ban.we presentedinitially hopedinitially hopedinitially

It was thisin the U.S. Onmake absinthe

Absinthe?

Lucid Master DistillerAbsinthe Portfolio Brand

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TP0716_066-101-final.indd 98 6/30/16 5:39 PM

Page 2: COMPETITIONS Parlez-Vous Absinthe? · 100 / the tasting panel / july 2016 Maddie Haddad, Bartender at Estrella in West Hollywood, CA “The inspiration for this cocktail is from Ester

july 2016  /  the tasting panel  /  99

Damian Windsor, Bartender at the Roger Room

in Los Angeles, CA

“My cocktail is little bit of both nou-veau and classique. It has the bones of a classique and the refinement of a nouveau.”

Nouvelle Suissessew 1 oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew ½ oz. Tempus Fugit Crème de Menthew ½ oz. Meletti Anisettew ¾ oz. lime juicew ½ oz. simple syrupw 1 oz. egg whitew 1 oz. heavy creamw 6 mint leaves

Add all ingredients and ice to shaker and whip until frothy; strain. Serve with a cube or two to keep cold; garnish with mint sprig and dust with licorice powder.

Absinthe?Today, Lucid is produced in France’s

Loire Valley with equipment made in the 1880s, from a base of 96% ABV sugar beet spirit, the cleanest commercial spirit obtainable in France. Botanicals are soaked in the spirit in a 130-year-old copper still and then distilled. More botanicals are added through a classic process that cre-ates color and further enhances its distinct flavor. Breaux adds, “I wasn’t going to put my name on a product that had food coloring or chemicals in it. Everything is handmade.” At an SRP of $59.95, Lucid is at a lower cost point than many other French absinthes but made with the same dedication, making it ideal for cocktail enthusiasts in the U.S.

Absinthe has always been a popular ingredient in classic cocktails, and with the ongoing resurgence of classic cocktails in American bars and restaurants, it made sense that Lucid would focus on educat-ing bartenders through seminars and cocktail competitions. Recently, the brand sponsored the Lucid Absinthe Cocktail Classique competition, with Breaux, Absinthe Portfolio Master Milo Rodriguez and The Tasting Panel’s Associate Publisher Rachel Burkons as judges.

“What many people don’t know is that in Anglo-American culture, absinthe was essential in many classic cocktails. One of the great bartending books, The Savoy Cocktail Book from 1930, contains more than 100 absinthe cocktails,” explains Breaux. In the competition, bartenders were allowed to pick either the Classique or Nouveau category, and create a cocktail using Lucid Absinthe. Fifteen competitors faced off bracket-style for their chance to compete for the title of Classique Champion.

It was a tough competition, and the judges had a long debate before declar-ing Kalani Ben of Sassafras Saloon the winner, with his nouveau cocktail Vivid Sensations. Damian Windsor of the Roger Room’s classic cocktail Nouvelle Suissesse was a very close second. Winning a competition is always a testament to one’s skill as a bartender, but this absinthe competition holds even more weight. As Breaux says: “A cocktail competition using gin is easy, but absinthe is a very specific and powerful flavor. It takes good understanding and skill to mix it well. If you know how to mix with it, you can make really good cocktails.”

Kalani Ben,Assistant General Manager of

Sassafras Saloon in Los Angeles, CA

“For me, the best part of working with Lucid Absinthe is how versatile it is when working with a barrage of spirits. Light in body—enough to be a base—but also bold enough in flavor to stand up as a modifier.”

hWINNER

h2ND PLACE

Vivid Sensationsw ½ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew 2 oz. Singani 63w 1 oz. limew ½ oz. salted chili-pineapple gommew 2 dashes Miracle Mile Bergamot Bitters

Add all ingredients to shaker with a small amount of crushed ice. Give it a quick hard (whip) shake and strain over crushed ice. Garnish with pineapple leaves and amarena or Maraschino cherries.

TP0716_066-101-final.indd 99 6/30/16 5:39 PM

Page 3: COMPETITIONS Parlez-Vous Absinthe? · 100 / the tasting panel / july 2016 Maddie Haddad, Bartender at Estrella in West Hollywood, CA “The inspiration for this cocktail is from Ester

100  /  the tasting panel  /  july 2016

Maddie Haddad, Bartender at Estrella in

West Hollywood, CA

“The inspiration for this cocktail is from Ester Lee of Estrella’s ghost pepper chocolate cake. The cocktail itself is a take on a Sazerac.”

Killin’ Me Smalls

Created by Maddie and Estrella Beverage Director Gia St. George

w Lucid Absinthe Supérieure rinsew 2 oz. Dios Baco Oloroso Sherryw 1/2 oz. cinnamon/ghost pepper

syrupw 2 dashes Angostura Bittersw 2 dashes Peychaud’s Bittersw Lemon peel

Created by Maddie and Estrella Beverage Director Gia St. George

Christopher

Barragan, Sommelier/Mixologist/

Certified Beer Server at Fleming’s Steakhouse in

Woodland Hills, CA

“The original Sazerac was made with Sazerac de Forge et Fils Cognac, but after phylloxera decimated vineyards in France, we switched to rye whiskey. This cocktail is a nod to the original formula and a new ‘blood’ twist. Le Sang de Sazerac is French for ‘the blood of Sazerac.’”

Le Sang de Sazerac

w 1 bar spoon Lucid Absinthe Supérieure

w 2 oz. Maison Rouge Cognacw 2 dashes Peychaud’s Bittersw ½ oz. turbinado simple syrup Garnished with a blood orange twist.

Andrea Borgen, Owner of Barcito in DTLA

“I love working with classic cocktails and really wanted to take an Argentine spin on the Corpse Reviver.”

Corpse Reviver

Numero Dos

w Lucid Absinthe Supérieure, in spray bottle

w ¾ oz. ginw ¾ oz. Cointreau (or other triple sec)w ¾ oz. Livenza (an Argentine forti-

fied wine; could also be replaced by another americano, such as Cocchi)

w ¾ oz. lemon juice

Hard shake, strain into a coupe, and garnish with absinthe spray (two to three sprays).

COMPETITIONS

Classique Cocktails

NOUVEAU Cocktails

William Perbilini, Bar Manager at Bar Toscana

in Brentwood, CA

“My cocktail is classique because it’s an Old World cocktail with an Italian, modern twist. The light bulb contains Lucid Absinthe, mint infusion and dry ice for a contemporary touch.

My Italian Sazerac

w ½ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew 1½ oz. Knob Creek Straight Rye

Whiskeyw ½ oz. Amaro Nonino Quintessentiaw 3 dashes Fee Brothers Peach

Bittersw 1 orange peelw 1 lemon peel

Swirl or atomize Lucid Absinthe in a chilled rocks glass, then add a large crystal clear ice sphere. Combine the rest of the ingredients in a mixing glass and stir to perfection with large ice cubes. Strain into the chilled rocks glass and aromatize with an orange and a lemon peel. Finish with a small mist of Lucid Absinthe Supérieure and serve.

Michael Alvarez, Head Bartender at Alvarez & Co.

Bartending in Los Angeles, CA

“I enjoy working with Lucid, as it’s one of the cleaner absinthes I’ve worked with, and it’s easier to mix with as it isn’t overly fragrant.”

Green Fairy’s Flight

w ½ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew 1½ oz. Aviation American Ginw ½ oz. fresh lime juice w 3 slices cucumber w 3 small sprigs thyme w 2 one-inch chunks honeydew melonw ½ tsp. sugar

In a shaker glass, combine the sugar, lime juice, two cucumber slices, two thyme sprigs and honeydew. Muddle the ingredients well. Add ice, ½ oz. of Lucid Absinthe and 2 oz. of Aviation Gin. Shake vigorously, and strain into a rocks glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish with the remaining cucumber; slice by pulling the thyme sprig through the center. 

TP0716_066-101-final.indd 100 6/30/16 5:39 PM

Page 4: COMPETITIONS Parlez-Vous Absinthe? · 100 / the tasting panel / july 2016 Maddie Haddad, Bartender at Estrella in West Hollywood, CA “The inspiration for this cocktail is from Ester

july 2016  /  the tasting panel  /  101

Austin Doner, Managing Bartender at

Seventy7 in Culver City, CA

“I wanted to make a cocktail that accented the absinthe but didn’t overpower every-thing, something absinthe drinkers would appreciate and a window to the world for non-absinthe drinkers.”

The Tell-Tale

w ½ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew ½ oz. fresh lemon juicew ½ oz. wildflower honey water (4:1

honey to water)w ½ oz. green Chartreusew 1 oz. No. 3 London Dry Gin

Build in small tin. Add four to six blackberries (depending on size), four medium to large basil leafs and muddle. Add ice, shake and double strain into a Lucid Absinthe glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with a pretty basil leaf and blackberry skewer.

Meredith Hayman, Bartender at Bestia in DTLA

“I wanted to take something like absinthe that most people are scared to have and make it approachable. Lucid is such a solid product; it insures consistency all around.”

A Bite Into Summer

w ½ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew ¾ oz. lemon juicew 1 oz. pineapple juicew ½ oz. agave syrup

(3:1 agave to water)w ½ oz. Giffard Fraise des Boisw 1 oz. tequila blancow 1 oz. soda waterw 2 dashes Angostora Bitters

Combine all ingredients except soda water into a tin and shake well. Add soda and strain into a Collins glass. Garnish with a lemon wheel.

Marsha Meyer, The Natural Mixologist in

Los Angeles, CA

“I think that the smokiness of Scotch is actually an exciting complement to the herbaceous quality of the Lucid Absinthe. I think that this is a bit of an unusual combination, but ends up playing beautifully together.”

Where There’s Smoke

w ¼ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew ¾ oz. Jameson Irish Whiskeyw ¾ oz. Glenfiddich Scotchw ½ oz. Green Chartreusew ¼ oz. lime juicew ¼ oz. lemon juice w 10 mint leaves w ¼ oz. simple syrup

Muddle mint leaves in a mixing glass. Top with remaining ingredients. Shake hard to incorporate. Double-strain over fresh ice. Garnish with a mint sprig.

Megan Barton, Head Bartender at Tony’s

Saloon in Los Angeles, CA

“I wanted to create a refresh-ing cocktail that would play with the lighter herbaceous notes of Lucid Absinthe. Honeydew and verjus bring subtle sweetness and acidity to the drink, while the gin cre-ates a backdrop that allows the absinthe to shine.” 

The Cat’s Cabaret

w ½ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew 1½ oz. Aviation Ginw ¼ oz. Chareau Aloe Vera Liqueur w 1 oz. fresh honeydew juicew ¾ oz. verjus w ½ oz. lime juicew Pinch salt

Shake and strain on to crushed ice in a Collin’s glass. Garnish with shaved honeydew.

Dean Pryor, Bar Manager at Ironside in

San Diego, CA

“My cocktail is in the nouveau category because of its New World brightness and gregari-ous fruit flavors.”

Red Right Hand

w ¾ oz. Angostura Bittersw ¾ oz. Luxardo Maraschino liqueurw 3/8 oz. Green Chartreusew 3/8 oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew 1 oz. lime juice

Shake all ingredients long and hard. Strain into you preferred stemmed glassware. Zest a lime over the drink and serve.

Candace-Elyse Booker,

Partner/Owner of Fine & Dandy Cocktails in

San Diego, CA

“I got the inspiration from my cocktail from drinking punch in the parks of London with my friends.”

Dutch Courage Punch

w ¼ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew 1 ½ oz. Bols Geneverw 1 ½ oz. cold green teaw 2 oz. lime oleow ½ lemonw ½ oz. Giffard Crème de Pêchew 2 dashes celery bitters

Serve in a punch bowl.

Sam Spoehr, Bar Manager at Bludso’s in

Hollywood, CA

“I chose to make a nouveau cocktail because I wanted to try something innovative and new, while adding to the wide variety of absinthe cocktails.”

El Jardin

w ¼ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew ¾ oz. fresh lime juicew ¾ oz. Aperolw ¾ oz. mezcalw ¾ oz. apple-rhubarb-fennel shrub

Add all ingredients into a tin; shake and double-strain into a chilled coupe.

Jay Mattingly, Mixologist at Saint Marc in

Huntington Beach, CA

“I chose a nouveau cocktail because the cocktail utilizes a few contemporary ingre-dients, but the principle is a very classic and French style.”

Doom Violet

w ¾ oz. Lucid Absinthe Supérieurew 1¼ oz. Crème de Violettew ½ oz. Orgeatw ½ oz. St-Germain

Add all ingredients (and ice) to cocktail shaker. Shake for eight seconds (minimum dilution), and double-strain into coupe. Garnish with rose petals.

TP0716_066-101-final.indd 101 6/30/16 5:40 PM