Cosmetic Ingredients

conceptconceptconcentrated emulsions

Our ingredients, your creativity.

Benefit by using the RES CONCEPT website to its full potential. By registering youwill have access to technical data sheets, Material Safety Data Sheet, marketinginformation and formula examples .If you subscribe, you will also receive our periodical newsletter containing infor-mation about new products, applications, testwork, technical publications andformulas.

THE PROCESSfast and simple

Choose yourRES CONCEPT...

dilute... prepare the oil phase... add the oil phase whilemixing...

homogenise.

The RES CONCEPT line allows the formulator tocontinuously create new and different emulsions.It is possible to choose the most suitable RESCONCEPT product and then add anything thatthe formulators creativity requires.

WATERLIPIDSACTIVE INGREDIENTSRHEOLOGICAL MODIFIERPERFUMEPRESERVATIVE

The key to using RES CONCEPT products is theaccurate selection of a suitable rheologicalagent. The rheological agent can be added atany stage during the simple cold manufacturingprocess. The correct choice of agent dependson the required viscosity of the product beingmanufactured. RES PHARMA has completed many tests andhas developed numerous example formula-tions, a few of which may been consulted onthe following pages. RES PHARMA Centro

Tecnico is at our customers disposal for assistance with the use of RES CONCEPT products (ratio between dilutionof RES CONCEPT/quantity of rheological agent), and the correct choice of compatible rheological agent.

RES PHARMA has developed a new series of products called RES CONCEPT, which are extremely stable concentratedcosmetic emulsions that can be used as a chassis emulsion for the production of every type of cosmetic product. Based on our know-how in emulsion technology, over the past 6 years RES PHARMA has specialised in the pro-duction of concentrated emulsions for use in the Wet Wipe industry. RES CONCEPT products are, in fact, the result of our experience with Wet Wipe concentrated emulsions. Furtherstudies show how they can be used to make excellent quality cosmetic emulsions of any viscosity through the simpleuse of rheological agents.RES CONCEPT is a completely new way of approaching the manufacturing process of cosmetic emulsions. The formulator can use an emulsion “chassis” on which he can use his or her creativity to build original, modernand quality products with a cold manufacturing process.RES CONCEPT emulsions can be used pure, however we suggest a use of between 5% and 30% for this type ofapplication where they can offer the possibility to create numerous types of products according to the correctchoice and concentration of rheological agent:

• Sprayable emulsions, such as: deodorants, sun creams and after sun products, hair shine emulsions, anti-tangleemulsions, etc.

• Medium viscosity emulsions, such as body lotions, sun and after sun lotions, hair and body conditioners,hand lotions, detergent lotions, face lotions, eye contour serums, etc.

• Thick, viscous emulsions, such as day and night creams, eye contour creams, hand creams, protective andlenitive creams for babies, etc.

THE CONCEPTbenefits

COLD EASY FAST PROCESS

FASTER LAB DEVELOPMENT TIME

INCREASED PRODUCTION CAPACITY

ECONOMICAL FORMULATION

VERSAT I L I TY

LOGISTICAL SAVINGS

Thanks to their ease of use, the development time required to produce a lab formula is drastically reduced. The formulator can therefore offer a wider choice of formula to the customer/marketing department.

RES CONCEPT products do not require heating during the manufacturing process. Both liposoluble and hydrosolubleingredients or phases can also be added cold.

The same RES CONCEPT ingredient can be used to manufacture cosmetic emulsions of any viscosity: from spray emulsions such as deodorants, sunscreen products, to thick creams, such as day or night creams or moisturizing creams.

As the same emulsion concentrate can be used to manufacture a whole range of finished products, positive effects canbe had with logistical issues (the number of raw materials purchased, transported and stocked.

A cold production process requires less time than a traditional emulsion manufacturing process, allowing production to produce more batches per day.

The efficacy of these ingredients mean they can be used in quantities ranging between 5 and 30% to produce qualitycosmetic emulsions and consequently lower total formula costs.

�

�

�

�

�

�

Concentrated base emulsion developed considering basic formulistic needs. Can be used to lower the total formulacost and produce competitive entry level (mass market) cosmetic products while still guaranteeing excellent sensorialproperties even at low percentage of use.

INCI name: Aqua, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ceteareth-22, Glycerin, Palmeth-2, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Paraffinium Liquidum, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Dehydro-acetic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin.

PEG-Free concentrated emulsion developed to facilitate the production of modern, innovative cosmetic productsthat meet current market trends.The absence of ethoxylated raw materials makes this product an excellent marketing tool.It is possible to obtain soft and silky textured products even at low percentages.

INCI name: Aqua, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, C10-18 Trigyceries, Polyglyceryl-3 Esters Phosphate, Triisostearin,Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Diglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylparaben,Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben.

Concentrated emulsion with excellent skin feel, guaranteed by the emollient and skin nourishing characteristics ofDiglycerin and Triisostearin.Can be used, even at low percentages, to develop products intended for use on delicate and easily irritable skinwhere a superior lipidic contribution is required.

INCI name: Aqua, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Triisostearin, Ceteareth-22, Palmeth-2, Diglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmeth-2 Phosphate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Dehydro-acetic acid, Ethylhexylglycerin.

A concentrated mother sunscreen emulsion that can be used in an identical manner to the other RES CONCEPT products. It can be used to formulate sunscreen products of different viscosities simply and quickly while still leavingthe formulator the possibility to personalise his or her formula with their own creativity.

INCI name: Aqua, Ethylhexyl Metoxy Cinnammate, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydi Benzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Ceteareth-22, Glycerin, Palmeth-2, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tetrasodium Edta,Preservative

The RES CONCEPT line are not tested on animals, are classified as non-irritant according to “IN VITRO” tests.(details available on request)

THE PRODUCTline

It is known that traditional emulsions have an average droplet size of between 1 and 100 µm (macro-emulsion).Innovation in the field of emulsion technology has begun to favour the micronisation of the dispersed phase.In such cases we are considering ‘mini emulsions’, structures in which the diameter of the droplets is withinthe 50 – 500 nm range. Droplets are so tiny that gravity has no effect upon them. In this way the structure ofthe emulsion is notably more stable compared to a traditional emulsion.

The precise mix of emulsifiers, together with an emulsification technique studied in RES PHARMA’slaboratories, has allowed us to manufacture emulsions where the average particle size of fat globulesis smaller than 1 µm.

RES CONCEPT emulsions have special chemical-physical characteristics: notwithstanding their 40%concentration of the internal phase they are extremely fluid and particularly stable with regards to creamingand flocculation (longer shelf-life and better stability). It is well known that key aspects of emulsionstability are the average fat globule size and the distribution pattern.

It is possible to observe the particle size in the photograph taken under a microscope a x1000 magnifications.

Particle diameter of RES CONCEPT emulsion vs. traditional emulsion.

The average droplet diameter of our RES CONCEPT emulsions was determined using the CoulterCounter, and size distribution values are given in volume% vs. droplet diameter. The graph reveals the great difference in average fat globule diameter when comparing the RES CONCEPTemulsion with the same formula manufactured with a traditional method of emulsification. The resultsclearly show how our emulsification technology drastically reduces the particle size and also causesa monomodal distribution.

STRUCTURE and STABILITYof the emulsion

Flow curves of RES CONCEPT emulsion vs. traditional emulsion.

Flow curves of RES CONCEPT emulsion vs. competitors.

The rheological properties of RES CONCEPT concentrated O/W emulsions were investigated using aRheomat RM180 rheometer, equipped with a concentric cylinder system with a conical end, an instrumentthat allows the computer controlled characterisation of products under different flow conditions. The protocol used to analyse the products is an hysteresis loop test: first, the shear rate is continuou-sly increased from zero to 1200 s-1 (up flow curve) and then is reduced again to zero (down flowcurve). In the graph that shows log viscosity vs. log shear rate the slope of the curve measures theshear-thinning behaviour of the emulsion and the area between the two up and down curves indicatesthe presence of thixotropy.

The efficacy of our production technology is evident when you compare the rheology of the RES CONCEPTconcentrated emulsion with the same emulsion prepared with the traditional production method. The behaviour of the traditional emulsion is classical. We can observe the typical shear-thinning behaviour:the viscosity is high, but due to the break-down of the microstructure it is reduced as the shear rate isincreased. Also, the build-up of the system is subject to a notable time dependence. However, notwithstanding the high concentration of internal phase (40%), the RES CONCEPT concen-trated emulsion behaves like a simple fluid, showing a quasi-Newtonian behaviour: not only is itsviscosity much thinner, but it is also little affected by shear rate. Also, the up and down curves are prac-tically identical, showing an almost total absence of thixotropy. The nanometric scale of oil dropletsand very low particle-particle interactions are believed to be responsible for the behaviour of our emulsion.

The rheological behaviour of our RES CONCEPT concentrated emulsions is even more evident whencompared to those of our main competitors. Both competitors products behave like classical structuredemulsions, clearly being time dependent, where the drops of oil tend to interact between themselvesforming clusters of flocculation. However, the RES CONCEPT concentrated emulsion, notwithstanding the fact that it has an equal orsuperior fraction of dispersed phase compared to the other products, demonstrates quasi-Newtonianbehaviour. The absence of a Thixotropic behaviour is a major benefit of our product and guarantees a superiorease of use and the superior stability of the products that can be manufactured with these ingredients.

RHEOLOGICALproperties

APPLICATIONin formulation

RES CONCEPT emulsions can be used pure, however we suggest a use of between 5% and 30% for this type of applicationwhere they can offer the possibility to create numerous types of products according to the correct choice and concentration of rheo-logical agent:

• Sprayable emulsions, such as: deodorants, sun creams and after sun products, hair shine emulsions, anti-tangle emulsions, etc.

• Medium viscosity emulsions, such as body lotions, sun and after sun lotions, hair and body conditioners, hand lotions, detergentlotions, face lotions, eye contour serums, etc.

• Thick, viscous emulsions, such as day and night creams, eye contour creams, hand creams, protective and lenitive creams

for babies, etc.

SOME EXAMPLE FORMULATIONS:

LENITIVE AFTERSUN SPRAYTrade name % w/w INCI nameA)Aqua 74,80Simugel Ns(1) 01,20B)Resconcept CARE 20,00 See TDSAloe vera 200:1 00,50Marigold Glycolic extract 01,00Resplanta RICE 01,00 Glycerth-8 Rice Oil EstersResplanta OLEA 01,00 Olive Oil PEG-8 EstersC)Perfume 00,30D)Preservatives Q.b.Appearance: white shinny fluid emulsion, soft and pleasant texture (1) Seppic

PROTECTIVE DAY CREAMTrade name % w/w INCI nameA)Resconcept PGF 15,00 See TDSRice Oil 01,00 Rice bran OilParsol SLX(1) 02,00 Polysilicone-15Vitamin E acetate(1) 00,50 Tocopheryl acetateDry Flo PC (2) 02,00 Aluminum starch OctenylsuccinatePreservative 01,10 Phenoxyethanol/EthylexylglycerinB)Demin. water q.b.100 AquaVegetal Glycerine 03,00 GlycerinC)Resil SP 01,20 Sodium PolyacrylateD)Wheat Cerasome 00,50 Triticum Vulgare seed extract Perfume 00,20 ParfumAppearance: thick white shinny cream(1) DSM (2) National Starch

AFTERSHAVE EMULSIONTrade name % w/w INCI nameA)Resconcept A 10,00 See TDSVitamin E acetate (1) 00,50 Tocopheryl acetateAll Q Plus (1) 00,20 Ubiquinone Tocopheryl acetate

and C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateJojoba Oil 00,50 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilB)Water q.b.100 AquaVegetal Glycerin 03,00 GlycerinC)Resil SP 00,70 Sodium PolyacrylateD)Ethylic Alcool denat.D 962 05,00 AlcoholFrescolat LM (2) 0,50 Menthyl LactatePerfume 00,20 ParfumPreservative 01,00 Preservative mixAppearance: semi fludi shinny fresh emulsion(1) DSM (2) Symrise

Cosmetic Ingredients

Via G. Pastore, 3 - 20056 Trezzo sull’Adda (MI) Italy - www.respharma.com - e-mail: info@respharma.com

Certified Quality System UNI EN ISO 9001:2000

OR

AN

GE

AD

V -

info

@or

ange

adv.

it