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TURN OVER
Many people strive for ‘perfection’ in their life,
through their work, their family, and their love
lives. All the time we hear about, or are even
called ‘perfectionists’, and usually in a negative
context. There have been many great humans
throughout history that we choose to revere
and respect because of their virtuous deeds,
but were they perfect? It probably comes
down to how you look at it, ‘it’ being perfection.
Nobody’s Perfect is a cool motto that
appeared on Lisa Simpson’s hat when TV’s ‘The
Simpsons’ (you had better know who they are)
family went to Australia . Could imperfections
be paradoxically perfect in themselves? If you
look close enough at all of the great names
in recorded history you will see that besides
their crowning achievements they also carried
with them the faults and mistakes of the
average person. John Lennon beat his first
wife, Martin Luther King Jr. had extramarital
affairs…Gandhi, Nelson Mandela, Einstein, and
even Mother Theresa must have done things
that were socially or morally unacceptable.
So, is striving for perfection a pipe-dream when
we realize that no matter what our lives are
destined to become, there will always be a
balance of negative influence in our actions?
What about the Buddha? Buddha means
‘perfect one’, and when he supposedly achieved
‘enlightenment’ he no longer had imperfections.
But look at what he had to go through to get
to that feeling/awareness. Was his life up to that
point flawless? No way. If you asked the Buddha
about his life I’m sure he’d say right away that
he only learnt what he did by making mistakes.
Could it be that we are all already perfect?
Everything in the Universe is scientifically
balanced. Negative electrons, positive protons,
and neutral neutrons do everything they can
to balance out in any and every situation
imaginable. By that logic, all of our faults
and imperfections exist inherently as part
of our perfection. How could we ever do
the most important work in life (learning
to love), if we already know everything?
Everyday we go to work and we do our utmost
to do the best job possible. We want things to
be perfect. Supposedly no circle ever drawn
has been perfectly round. I believe it’s the same
with people. You might now be asking, ‘If we are
all inherently flawed and have no possibility of
attaining a perfect state, what’s the use in even
trying? The answer is as simple as two Hydrogen
atoms coming together with one Oxygen
atom to make a single molecule of water.
We may always have faults, but if we do our
best with altruistic intention driving us forward,
we will make the world a better place. You
may still obsessively eat chocolate but if you
write up the achievable ‘2050 Plan for World
Peace’, people are going to forgive you. On the
other hand, if you sit at home hating yourself
because of your chocolate addiction, you
aren’t going to help the world, and in essence
you’re not going to achieve the balance of
energy (both positive and negative) that
you require to attain satisfaction in your life.
Within paradox there is always the other
side of the coin and so I have to suggest
yet another perspective. If everything in the
Universe is already balanced then doesn’t that
imply that no matter what we do, good or bad,
we will balance out evenly? It depends upon
what size picture you’re analyzing. If you’re
looking at human society as a whole you might
choose to believe that for every person that
is a little bit more negative than positive (with
their thoughts and actions), that there will be
another person in the world who is a little
bit more positive than negative. If more of
humanity is positive than negative, maybe the
balance of energies could show up elsewhere,
like in our surrounding environment?
The point of this article is to get you to
question your desire for a perfect life.
Maybe it already is. Maybe you are already
aware of it. If life was all happiness and joy
we wouldn’t know what happiness and joy
were, as we’d have nothing to compare them
to. If we never made mistakes, how would
we know we were even learning anything?
What would a life be without the experience
of learning? What would it amount to?
There’s no need to try and be perfect. Either
you already are perfect, or you will never
achieve perfection. There is a point in doing the
best you can everyday, even if today that simply
means getting out of bed. If everyone who
ever lived had doubted their abilities because
they had faults, nothing great would ever have
been done. If everyone compared themselves
to people who have already come and gone
and achieved greatness, then no one would
have had the courage to follow their dreams,
goals, and purposes. If Einstein had compared
himself to Da Vinci, and subsequently been
scared into inaction, we would never have
gained the knowledge that he shared with
the rest of us. Einstein wasn’t perfect. My bet
is he probably had a few problems with his
personal hygiene, you know, cutting his nostril
What
does
itmean
to be
perfect?
I’m human, I’m not perfect.
Art D
irected: Jack Sanders Photography: Cicely-G
race Ellison
When, in Darren Aronofsky’s Black Swan,
the artistic director of a New York ballet
school announces that Swan Lake will be
the season’s title performance, whispers
begin to circulate amongst the dancers.
Who will win the role of the white swan
and its black counterpart? One of those
dancers is Nina Sayers (Natalie Portman),
a shy, innocent ballerina who lives under
the strict watch of her troubled mother.
Erica Sayers (Barbara Hershey) was once
a ballerina, but sacrificed her career
to have Nina. Bitter and twisted, she
now lives her life vicariously through
Nina’s experiences, and maintains an
unhealthy influence over her daughter.
Director Thomas Leroy (Vincent Cassel)
finally settles on Nina to play the lead, and
challenges her to release her inhibitions
in order to play both swan roles. ‘When
I look at you, all I see is the white swan,’
he says. ‘I never see you lose yourself . .
. perfection is not just about control, it’s
about letting go.’ And so begins Nina’s
harrowing descent into madness, as her
yearning for perfection begins to take a
consuming, strangling hold on her mind.
Natalie Portman’s Oscar-winning
performance as the tormented ballerina
is certainly award-worthy. It is with her
that we delve deep into the psyche of an
obsessive dancer. Black Swan explores
the lengths to which someone will go to
achieve their ambition. Hungry to refine
her talent, Nina embraces self-inflicted
‘the only person standing in your way
is you.’
physical and mental pain. Her simple existence
is dominated by ballet. She lives in a bubble
of strict regime, where her days consist of
little more than practice and preparation for
routines. Her mother ensures that nothing
comes between her daughter and her art. The
childlike décor of Nina’s bedroom, and her infantile
relationship with her mother indicates that she is a
woman who has not yet grown up. ‘He picked me,
Mommy,’ she exclaims with breathless
delight. Consequently, Nina has no close
friends, and any interaction with her peers
at the ballet school is distanced and strained.
Isolated from full adulthood and all that it offers,
the lack of stable, reliable relationships in Nina’s
life lends itself to the ease with which she falls.
Erica maintains parental control, preserving Nina
as her little girl. When their already shaky
relationship begins to dissolve, we see
glimpses of disturbing behaviour in Erica,
who stands in the dark waiting for Nina to
return home, and watches her sleep. Erica
becomes an uncomfortable, suffocating
matriarch. Beth Macintyre (Winona Ryder) is
Nina’s role model, and is loved by many at the
ballet school. When forced to retire due to her
age, Beth begins to unravel and, now prone
to suicide attempts and self-harming, spends
the majority of the film in hospital. But Nina
believes that Beth is ‘perfect.’ She aspires to
be like her idol, disregarding her mental state.
Both Thomas and another dancer, Lily
(Mila Kunis), seek to bring out the darker,
sensual side of Nina. Lily introduces Nina
to partying, alcohol, drugs and men. She is
Nina’s main dancing rival and a more suitable
black swan according to Thomas. She is
‘imprecise but effortless.’ She knows how to
let go without being emotionally affected,
unlike Nina. Thomas’s inappropriately sexual
teaching methods at first evoke an angered
reaction from Nina – to Thomas’s delight –
since he can see that Nina has fire within her.
“...perfection is not just about control,
it’s about letting go”
THE PRICE OF PERFECTIONBLACK SWAN
Swan Lake is a beautiful, tragic
story. The delicate art of
ballet sensitively describes
both the joy and turmoil
of its main characters. Tchaikovsky’s
accomplished composition of music
expressed through dance tells of
the love between a prince and a
cursed princess, who is bound
to an evil sorcerer. In their fight
to free her from her captor, they
realise that their only escape is to
leap to their deaths.
Words like ‘important’ and ‘controversial’
inevitably surface when you examine
the lengthy career of German composer
Karlheinz Stockhausen. A few facts to
kick off. He pioneered electronic music in
“variable form”. He has written graphical
scores that can be read from any direction.
Inspired by dreams of flying, he has
written works for a string quartet where
each participant performs from their own
helicopter hovering aWbove the concert
hall. In short, he does things none of us
really understand but sound really
quite impressive.
R
He was an astounding innovator who changed the course of
art. He was also a bit of a prophet. In honor of his passing, we
revisit a 1990 interview full of insights that still sparkle today.
Up until May 12, 2008, if you polled the cognoscenti as to
who was the world’s greatest living artist, the winner would
undoubtedly have been Robert Rauschenberg. But on that
date, Rauschenberg moved into another category of greatness.
And though his physical heart finally gave out after he chose to
remove himself from life support, his spiritual heart beats on
in his generous body of work and in the charities he founded-
including Change, Inc., which has provided emergency funds
for artists in distress for more than 30 years, and the Robert
Rauschenberg Foundation, a nonprofit devoted to raising
awareness of the many issues with which he was involved.
While Andy Warhol may be more associated with Pop art,
Rauschenberg was the prime mover of Pop and an enormous R
Leigh Bowery
26.03.61 - 31 .12 .94
unique
Leigh Bowery (1961-1994), undoubtedly one of the most
controversial and avant-garde personalities of the 80’s.
“About Leigh Bowery” aims to be a photographic cross-
section of the deeds of the artist, performer, fashion
designer, aspiring pop star and object of art that Leigh
Bowery has been. Though almost unknown in Italy, he has
changed the visual language of fashion, and his personality
influenced people
like Lucian Freud,
Boy George,
Antony & the
Johnsons and
David LaChapelle,
who all have shared
and spread his
avant-garde ideas.
For his ability to
change identity,
Leigh Bowery can
be considered as an
authentic witness of
the protest against
s t anda rd i z a t i on
and conservatism,
thus representing
the uniqueness
of every life that
does not accept
rules of conduct
or appearance, in a
pure new-romantic
style, bringing out the individual with the expressive
freedom of genius. Bowery offers himself in an image
that - in a transgender vision - goes beyond the separation
of masculine and feminine appearances and behaviour by
means of the body and clothes, originating new concepts
of glamour and beauty. Leigh Bowery is one of the most
extreme interpreters of the historical context he lives in:
the one of the abolition of every limitation in favour of
complete experimentation and contamination among the
languages of music, art, fashion and design. It is the decade
of Margaret Thatcher (1979-1990), the birth of MTV
(1981), the fall of the Berlin wall (1989), the release of Like
a Virgin (1984) and other music hits like Thriller (1982).
Moreover, with tv, and especially with the promotional use
of music videos, visual impact becomes essential for every
artist willing to enter the commercial circuit. Fergus Greer
and Johnny Rozsa met Bowery and collaborated with him
from 1986 to 1994,
when he passed
away because of
HIV. Through a
series of portraits,
both photographers
give to those who
could not meet
him a real visual
guide of Leigh
Bowery and all he
created with his
own image. Johnny
Rozsa collaborates
with Bowery in a
photo shooting
for the creation of
Christmas Card.
With an unusually
emotional view
for a fashion
p h o t o g r a p h e r ,
Rozsa depicts
Bowery’s genuine
transformism, which sacrifices the wearability of the dress
in favour of the show. As well as actively collaborating
with him, Fergus Greer is also a dear friend of Bowery’s:
he released the “Leigh Bowery Looks” book, with
previously unreleased photos. It is Wexactly with this
visual account that the more intimate acquaintance
between the two emerges. Greer captures al the profound
and hard work that Bowery carries on around his body.
“I try to have the best possible image thanks to my
individuality and expressiveness”. (Leigh Bowery)v
I don’t want to be remembered as a
person with Aids,
I want to be remembered
as a person with Aids,
I want to be remembered as a person with ideas.
I AM GOING TO BE A GREAT ACTRESS .
says Peter Greenaway, sipping
his mint tea, “but I do know
two things. You were conceived,
two people did fuck, and I’m
very sorry but you’re going to
die. Everything else about you
is negotiable.”
Negligible, too. For Greenaway,
there’s sex and there’s death
and “what else is there to
talk about?” He believes, he
continues, as relaxed as if
predicting rain tomorrow, “that
all religion is about death and
art’s about life. Religion is there
to say: hey, you don’t have to
worry – there’s an afterlife.
Culture represents the opposite
of that – sex. A very stupid
Freudian way of looking at
it, but one is positive and one
is negative. Especially against
people like you. All religions
have always hated females.”
Steam billows up from the cup
into his face. He looks half
David Attenborough, breath
fogging the lens as he explores G“I don’t know much about you,”
GPeterreenaway
I S S E Y
M I Y A K E
Miyake is considered the
first Asian fashion designer
to gain renown worldwide.
Known for blending
the flowing fabrics and
textile designs of the East with modern
technology and production methods of
the West, he experimented with natural
and synthetic fibers and advanced textile
science. The winner of nearly every
fashion award, he is known to dislike the title “fashion
designer” and prefers to be considered an artist whose
medium is fabric. Two of Miyake’s most popular lines
are the Pleats Please prints that are permanently pleated
yet flexible, and A-POC (A Piece of Cloth), a
single, ready-to-wear piece of clothing. The
Issey Miyake label also appears on numerous
non-clothing items, including perfume, hosiery,
and home furnishings.
Miyake was born in 1938, in Hiroshima, Japan, and was seven years old when the atomic
bomb was dropped on that city during World War II. His mother, a teacher, was badly
burned by the bombing and died four years later of complications. In an illness unrelated
“
“
to the bomb, Miyake suffered from a bone-marrow
disease at age ten. Ironically, it was the American
occupation in Japan that gave Miyake an introduction to
western culture.Miyake’s interests turned to the artistic
even as a child, and with dreams of being a dancer and
an artist, he took an interest in the pictures of fashions in his sister’s glamour
magazines. Admiring the
way clothes could drape
the human body to make
a statement, he decided
By the way, Marilyn Monroe was a size 14
contents
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LEIGHBOWERY_14
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KARLHEINZSTOCKHAUSEN_22
BLACKSWAN_24
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Danny Bourke // Photography: Joe Earley
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