Costume in England - History of Dress to the End of the 18th Century - F W Fairholt 1896 - Volume 2

8/20/2019 Costume in England - History of Dress to the End of the 18th Century - F W Fairholt 1896 - Volume 2
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ONTARIO
LEGISLATIVE
LIBRARY
1980
BOHN'S
ARTISTS*
LIBEABY.
COSTUME
IN
ENGLAND.
GLOSSARY.
vAfe
CO
VENT
GARDEN.
1896.
CIIANCF.RV
I.ANE.
to the
left by Mr.
Dillon.
1S85.
ments
a collar.
II.
B
covered
with
any
other
stuffe
; at
this
day
coat
to
Jacob,
which
is
teU
In
these
they
are
1278,
and
military
•discipline
during
the
reign
of
Francis
I.,
as
quoted
by
a
row
of
Hung
at
his
girdle,
white
as
morwe
milk.
and
jewels,
or
symbols
is
here
given,
from
the
Loutterell
Psalter,
which
exhibits
a
female
pea-
in
many
a
plait,
our
of
the
four-
teenth
century
is
given
wrought
Were
they
in
Whalley
the
lady's.
colours
on
satin
and
stitched
upon
the
apron
without
some
cross-bows
an
arrangement
called
the
goafs
foot
lever
was
employed,
in
others
the
detachable
mechanism
called
the
moulinet.
See
History,
found
in
the
Eichard
II.
MS.,
HarL,
1319.
1
Skilfully.
guard
with
arquebuses,
1485.
in
will
prove
this.
weed,
which
they
called
a
cloaJc,
and
in
Latin
armilausa,
as
only
cover-
other
and
twisting
strengthening
testa-
ment
of
a
Saxon
nobleman,
which
weighed
Thomas
Bowes,
1479,
an
arming
doublet
of
blanket
chamlet
occurs.
When
to
wear
about
his
black ribbon
islands, have been
notch
a.
hold
on
the
string.
The
Norman
soldiers,
in
the
Bayeux
an
He
purveyed
hym
an
hondred
bowes,
The
strenges
were
y
dight,
An
hondred
shefe
of
arowes
good,
The
hedes
burnyshed
full
bryght.
II.
C
Lord's
foutemen
to
here
in
a
been noticed,
Drayton's
Poly-Olbion,
1622.
1783,
and
description of

speare,
who
says
the
servant's
badge
consisted
of
his
I
conjoined
be prettier.
;
could
find
those
who
killed
Darius,
he
would
ware,
That
shined
The
square-headed
arrow
peculiar
to
the
crossbow.
ss
Edging.
are
of
threescore
pound
price
cost
as
much
as
285
Hvres,
but
this,
he
adds,
is
the
dearest
merchandise.
our cut.
the
twelve
apostles.
See
the
diary
under
her
left
arm
and
a
bunch
of
band-
strings
in
her
19]
see
Besagnes.

led
myn
hed,
with
gold,
1563,
and
again
copied.
BATTLE-AXE.
A
powerful
weapon
much
used
by
warriors
in
the
middle
ages,
and
frequently
mentioned
in
that
used
Of riche
plaited,
twisted.
II.
D
reign
of
its
total
of
to
preserve
here
a
The early
Church,
Berkshire
which
is
a
to
his
The
monumental
but
the
beard
was
close-
shaven,
king
for
orders
that
gentleman
has
most
liberally
allowed
us
to
make
use
of.
The
time
wasted
in
the
trimming
of
beards
is
laic
(Warton's
The
Templars
were
per-
mitted
to
wear
beards.
another
the
or
his
Hutton
i'
th'
peake.
1591
beard, or
in his
which
place.
1
Hen
VI.
i.
3.
They
were
generally
decorated
with
lace
or
to its
dropped
from
his
head
in
the
battle.
For
specimens
of
the
beaver
face
is
bedvs
ii.
hedd
sett
Hiir
elothys
wyth
bestes
and
bvrdes
were
bete.^'
;
And gan
of
war.
The
besieged
and
are
very
often
represented
In
Massinger's
packing,
leather.
the
species
of
cloth.
To
get
some
badgeless
blue
upon
his
back.
Car. I.
BOOKS
were
sometimes
worn
at
the
girdle,
as
seen
in
the
cut,
p.
festivals. The
4
No.
3.
feet-coverings
may
two very remarkable manuscripts.
called hazans,
I
took
mightily
amongst
the
nobles,
and
obtained
for
its
originator
the
cognomen
of
Cor-
nador
The
These
shoes
reached
to
the
III.
these
early
the
more
correct
one.
aimed
at
by
the
may
judge
from
shoe
of
No.
9.
No.
10.
during
the
II.
V
No.
14.
wearer
small and
round, rather
worn, and
King
John,
in
Halliwell's
folio
edition
of
Shakspeare.
by
gentle-
men
at
this
time
No.
20.
No.
21.
Spanish
No.
35.
copied (No.
future
Queen,
Henrietta
their
value.
In
the
diary
of
ex-
..100
And
elsewhere
we
gather
of
King
I bespake.
as
to
tighten
boot may
No. 40.
a
scale
knees,
and
while
upon
of
the
saints
of
that
No.
43.
burying
a
cut
exceedingly
square.
A
very
ugly
Introduction
4
No.
45.
No.
46.
No.
47.
with its
No.
52.
No.
53.
Goodrich
great, and
il.
Q
Ko.
55.
No.
56.
and
No.
66,
of
a
fashionable
and
buckle, which
century and
of
of
the
in
1616,
bequeaths
demi-placate)
that word.
of Spanish
of
staves
for
each
our
wrist.
Beaumont
and
Fletcher's
leather
top,
covering
women
over
of
Ralph
de
Knevvnton,
1370,
at
Aveley,
Essex.
fig.
53
French
fashions.
came
the
French
petticoat-breeches,
en-
at two
of
with
filigree
work
of
the
most
delicate
and
very
magnificent
Saxon
fibula,
an
herte,
Criseyde
hym
yaf,
and
stak
it
on
his
sherte.
Chaucer's
Troilus
and
Creseide,
by
Chaucer
in
a
hat
D
stout
rascals.
II.
H
See
the
anecdote
concerning
Henry
V.
in
Monstrelet,
sub
anno
1422.
No.
3.
wife
of
William
Lord
Fitzwarine,
in
Wantage
Church,
from
of
byssine,
lined
somewhat No.
ought to be called
reserved for so-called
all
colours,,
of
wear.
ribbons
appended
No.
1.
No.
2.
Queen
of
Scots,
1564.
CANVAS.
A
Striped
canvass
for
doublets
is
mentioned
by
Dekkerin
1611.
CAP.
See
Head-Dresses.
Armilausa. The
A
carcanet
seems
to
have
been
a
neck-
old
canets
equal value.
at
1760.
See
fig.
285.
II,
I
is
mentioned
last
Songs,
p.
74.^
.-I
gentlemen ushers
the
manner
in
which
they
are
often
described
1537;
a
chain
of
set
with
diamonds,
Priory,
give
knights,
Wife, in the
and
wel.
was
en-
CHAUSSES
are re-
Bristol, 1534 (Peacock).
Strutt.
CHOPINE.
A
high
shoe.
See
Boot.
end
the
Dresses
and
Costumes.
fraternity.
1267,
coifs
worn-.
with
a
yard
of
yellow
colberteen
again.
Congreve's
Wa^
of
the
World.
COLET-MONTES
(Fr.).
A
high
collar
in
imitation
of
the
mentioned
in
the
comedy
of
air,
edition
of
Dodsley's
prune
and
flounce
my
peruque
a
little
same shape.
sington
Museum.
Copes
were
often
decorated
with
em-
I
in
his
It
was
in
use
in
Sir
S.
E.
Meyrick
the studs-
Edward
III.,
and
then
indis-
4
No.
1.
No.
2.
there
men-
tioned
is
translated
by
Chaucer
courtesy
and
hirtel,
the
the
MS.
6829,
Bibl.
:

copes
into
courtpies.
COUTEL
(0.
Ft.),
ing
the
middle
ages.
A
short
knife
or
dagger
in
use
dur-
preposterous
Rows
Roll.
generally
embroidered
with
that
of
Edward
the
Black
Prince,
at
cultellarius.
CUTEE
{Fr.).
A
short
lappeted
head-dress
of
lace^
con-
was
called
to
aglet,
but-
ton,
billement,
&c.,
wherewith
a
woman
sets
out
her
apparel.
See
fig.
86.-
DORNIX.
A
coarse
kind
of
damask,
originally
made
at
:
putting
on
his
ap-
occurs
in
the
chiefly
made
in
Brittany.
When
original dragoons (see
of
Charles
I.,
as
the
early
Saxons.
A
fashion,
as
rose
or
similar
flower
stomacher laced with
and reede.
for
the
Equipage
described
above.
East,
kind
of
texture.
might be
Dumb
Knight,
1608.
a
monstrous
ruflf.
**
II.
M
The
private
stage's
audience,
the
twelvepenny
stool
gentlemen
visit of Christian IV.,
theatre.
ture,
and
friction ;
brought
to
England
by
Spaniards
and
Dutchmen
in
still
the
material
in
commonest
use
by
our
peasantry.
*'
Mundus
Muliebris.
1690.
FLO.
A
swift
arrow.
wide
to
distinguish
them
from
other
coins
of
George
neai-
Machiavel's
as
can
be
gathered
by
tradition.
Beaumont
and
Fletcher's
Woman-hater,
1607.
forehead-cloth
from the

worn
by
men
in
33
Hen.
YIII.,
the
clasees
for
jerkins,
doublets,
and
gowns
a
child's
gown.
The
monastic
Vienna,
1312,
sumptuary
vol.
i.
at
pp.
106,
no better
in crystyant^.'*
fur
with
black
spots.
it was
and
the
principal
nobility
of
both
sexes.
Persons
of
an
inferior
rank
contented
polecats,
otters,
sables,
squirrels,
weasels,
1
Redbaflger?
Mediaeval
Art.
cut
of
one
of
these
gloves
here
given.
They
take
the
faitz
destreyse.
II. N
by
No.l.
No.
2.
The
Devil
is
an
Ass.
1616.
true
scale
work.
No.
1,
John
of
Eltham,
Stothardy.
or
orna-
ment
also
occur,
To-lanced,
pierced.
Scotch
foi
cattle
or
3.
aETOUN,
G-TJIDON.
A
small
flag
attached
to
the
head
of
a
spear
or
lance.
Its
derivation,
The
Hycke-Scomer
(temp.
Henry
VIII.).
Illustrations.
Dorothea
Peckham,
1512.
During
the
reigns
of
Henry
YII.
and
Vin.,
copied
in
gi/rdtes,^'
and
p.
153.
of
the
girdle.
knights
when
fully
armed
was
formed
of
overlapping
plates
of
metal,
or
Moone,
1597,
says,
Nor
can
good
Mjron
weare
on
his
left
hond,
A
signet
ring
of
Bristol
diamond
cen-
tury.
See
lione
Was
made.
II.
O
Elvira
offers
to
unpin
her
gorget.
Lord
Bristol's
Elvira,
1667.
For
notices
oi
later
the
flax
blossom
(gris-
de-lm),
from
which
or perruque.'*
of
the
given
to
fashions new.
his
opponent
T.
supported
it
on
his
shoulder,.
supposed
to
appears
to
be
brass
he
holds
early in the sixteenth
chased
and
a
would
:

Dumbe
Knight,
1608,
a
beard.
the Shakspere
years longer
of
of
Lady
Herbert,
1600.
out
by the
end.
the
style
of
elaborate
No.
10.
end of the
to
understand
better
that
must
have
been
felt
by
all.
II.
P
No.
11.
of
such
No.
13.
believed
as
Jews.
Several
But
Ejpithalamiuin,
Donne..
noted
Trivia,
advises
passing
a
coxcomb
Powder
Hy.
The
author
of
the
Art
p.
405.
Hair-
]X)wder
was
abolished
in
the
Army
in
1799,
owing
to
the
high
price
of
flour
from
bad
harvests.
quently in
act 4th
Yorkshire,
1375.
But
into
fashion
(see
cut
below
for
a
specimen).
In
the
old
comedy
known
as
G-reen's
various
black
silk,
and
back.
Macbeth.
HAEQUEBUS.
See
Arcubus.
HASTAEET,
a
linen
cloth
the
sixteenth
century.
wel
That
tboryiine
rayghte
entre
no
steil.*'
we
have
noticed
this
fact,
and
in
fig.
45,
have
given
specimens
of
hats
aaid
folds,
and
it
was
sometimes
3,
copied
from
TElfric's
vol. i.
pleasure. The
as
superfluities,,
and
in
the
library
of
Trinity
College,
Cambridge.
The
form
of
the
hood,
when
it
was
placed
upon
the
snatched
from
his
head
in
by the
lower classes.
Xo.
13.
No.
14.
great
pads
of
false
hair
appear
on
by
the reign of
Edward I. ; but
of
way
vanity
speak-
ing
of
to
say
But
a
more
ancient
poem
occurs
in
the
publications.
II.
<i
No.
17.
sprinkled
all
over
with
a
pattern
like
figured
silk.
An
example
is
is
worn
by
the
figure
is
high
and
rounded,
some-
thing
like
and
it
was
seen
upon
the-
37.
No.
38.
of
the
chapeau
lined
was
one
of
the
laws
for
the
en-
couragement
of
trade,
which
so
much
occupied
the
legisla-
of
using
them
head.
Flat-caps
as
proper
are
to
city
gowns,
As
to
as ^M
1639,
of
square crownes
letter
written
France, the
nine
or
ten
pound
price
or
so,
we
grew
to
the
hat
are
mentioned.
Humour,
1599
No.
51.
-Tragedy,
No.
52.
No.
53.
showing the
the
hand
of
King
of
Spain,
in
1660.
No.
61.
of that
3
£4
13
and low.
in
No.
68.
obtained
the
name
of
shelter-
ing
the
head
entirely
by
its
im-
mensity.
Some
other
examples,
all
directions
to
the
the
greatest
of
the
whole
thing
is
meant
as
but that they
ia
works
on
hair-dressing
at
this
time.
No.
71.
hat,
she
arrayed
been
as
;
'
Dublin,
1762.
order to
brimmed hat
its
form,
may
be
obtained
from
Nos.
77,
No.
77.
years.
a
hat
similar
to
that
worn
by
the
last-described
gentleman
(No.
79).
way
is
crossed
and
of
ribbon,
and
larger
bows,
and
which
fitted
on
a
lady's
head
like
the
cover
on
a
canister,
was
viewed
No.
82.
in his
occur.
Holand
web
the
spencer
bothe,
And
loked
hem
as
beneath
the
gown
to
extend
its
width.
They
are
mentioned
convenience,
and
had
pocket-holes
on
each
side.
No.
4.
thou
shalt
ha
cory
sore
we
must
refer
to
vol.
Thirteen
shillings
and
fourpence.
cap.
Serjeants-at-law
are
de-
scribed
Vision.
1
fur.
II.
S
See
Notes
and
Queries,
it
is
used
by
cooks
for
tying
up
meat,
also
by
of
Sir
John
de
Creke,
at
avenaunt,
In
a,
gentyljesseratint.'^
Sir
Degrevant.
the jupon.
11.,
it
KAHRYMAUEY.
of
pastime,
came
suddenly
into
the
chamber
where
the
queen
and
her
for
by
the
king
to
his
sheared,
cut.
mere
or
sore,
Ke
sawe
come
The
ancient
woods.
mounted.
See
Chape,
p.
417.
ing
of
Chaucer,
inserted
in
some
copies
of
Occleve's
book
one
has
an
amber,
the
other
a
reddish-coloured
glass
handle,
the
sheath
being
of
purple
velvet,
embroidered
with
gold.
In
No.
2.
With alle
tawdry
lace
was
a
common
present
from
you
woollen
cloth.
Kilian.
the
Emperor
Maximilian
of
G-ermany,
rebated, or
tongue
to
Bastard,
Canaber.
LINSEY-WOLSEY.
A
coarse
woollen
manufacture

garment
were
pure
and
clene
j
T
That
was
shape
of
the
mace
heads
corresponds
closely
with
that
of
a
certain
on
ley's effigy,
circa 1386,
strong.
chains affixed
shillings.
The
cut
is
from
Randal
Holme's,
MS.
Harl.
4375.
(S€
that
word.)
And
knoppis
fyne
of
border
of
the
dress
is
portrayed
gold, enamelled.
to
have
been
worn
m
houses.
Masks
were
also
forbidden
to
be
worn
by
men
in
the
streets
at
Christmas-time,
as
it
8/20/2019 Costume in England - History of D

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Costume in England - History of Dress to the End of the 18th Century - F W Fairholt 1896 - Volume 2