Course “Tourism prac/ces and society” Module II “Global

MDPlanningandManagementofTourismSystems(PMTS)UniversityofBergamo

Course“Tourismprac/cesandsociety”

ModuleII

“Globaltourismandlocaldevelopment”

DomenicoPerro=a/GabriellaAlber/

Lecture3–DomenicoPerro=a(08/04/2019)

Foodheritage,tourism,andagriculture

Outlineofthesession

•  HeritageandFood;processesofheritagiza/on:“authen/city”,iden/tyand“tradi/on”infoodproduc/onandconsump/on

•  Foodheritageandtourism:casestudies•  Foodheritageandagriculture

•  “tradi/onal”and“authen/c”foodas“qualityfood”…•  Thetrasforma/onsinagri-foodsupplychainsinSouthern

Europeoverthelast30yearsandtheroleofsupermarketchains•  “Foodfromnowhere”and“foodfromsomewhere”.•  Acasestudy:theproduc/onof“pomodoripela/”inSouthern

Italy

1)Heritageandfood/Foodandfoodwaysasheritage

•  “authen/city”,iden/tyand“tradi/on”infoodproduc/onandconsump/on;

•  “Tradi/onal”foodthatneedstobe/mustbepreservedfromthetransienceof/me(see“Slowfood”);

•  Standardiza/on(procedures);•  Socialinnova/on?•  The(conflictsoverthe)bordersoftheterroir;•  Heritageandsocialanxiety…(foodcrises...);•  Dis/nc/onthroughconsump/on;•  Legalinstruments(UNESCOlist;denomina/onsof

origin).

R.BruloFe,M.DiGiovine(eds.,2014)“EdibleidenMMes:foodasculturalheritage”

•  Howfood–conceptualizedasamarkerofheritage–isusedtomarkinsidersandoutsiderswithinethnicgroups;

•  Whythesamefood’smeaningschangewithinapar/cularsocietybasedonclass,genderortaste;

•  Howtradi/onsare“invented”fortheeconomicandsocialrevitaliza/onofcommuni/es.

•  Acknowledgethecommercialadvantagesthatheritagedesigna/onsonfoodareperceivedtoprovide;

•  Interrogatetheconnec/onsbetweenheritageandfoodindustries,aswellasthe“culture”industriesandespeciallythetravelindustry;

•  Seehowheritageandfood“industries”actasmediators,bringingpeopletogetherthrougheconomicexchange.


…thecul/va/on,prepara/on,andconsump/onoffoodisusedtocreateiden/tyclaimsof“culturalheritage”onlocal,regional,na/onalandinterna/onalscales.…[food]tradi/onsare“invented”fortheeconomicandsocialrevitaliza/onofcommuni/es(p.11)

terroir…isaveryfood-specificno/onofheritage—onethatmanydifferentheritagediscoursesa=empt,butwhichcannoteasilybeproven—foritpositsthatthebiologicalcomponentsofanenvironmentbestowsuniquenessandauthen/cityontoaplace’sproduct,prohibi/ngitfrombeingreplicatedelsewhereintheworld.Thatis,apar/cularheritagefoodisbelievedtobeauthen/c—andcanbeclaimedasonegroup’sheritageoveranother—becauseofthespecificmineralsinthesoil,weathercondi/ons,andtopography,aswellasthetradi/onalwayshumanshavemanipulatedthoseenvironmentalcondi/ons.(p.7)Ofcourse,terroirdesigna/onshaveemergedpreciselybecauseofeconomicconcerns–butthisisnottheallstory(p.8)

therenowisanincreasinginterestbyItalianregionsandlocali/es…todifferen/atethemselvesbystar/ngfood-centeredsagre(popularfes/vals),eco-museums,andWorldHeritagenomina/ons,inana=empttoconstructterroirdesigna/ons—ifnotlegally,thenatleastinthecollec/vepsyche(p.10)The“Inven/onoftradi/on”(Hobsbawm&Ranger)


•  Theissueofscale:na/onalfood/ethnicfood(Na/onsas“imaginedcommuni/es”)

•  Heritagiza/onbyinformalnetworksand/orgroupsofstakeholders(regionalandna/onalgovernments,farmsandcompanies,etc.)

•  Instruments:–  the2010UNESCOWorldHeritagelist(MediterraneanDiet;French

GastronomicMeal;MexicanCuisine;Croa/anGingerbred,washokuJapanesecuisine,Turkishcoffee…inthe“Representa/velistoftheintangibleculturalheritageofhumanity”)(vaguenessandnostalgia...)

–  Thedesigna/onsof“terroir”:“Controlleddesigna/onoforigin”;“Controlledandguaranteeddesigna/onoforigin”;“Appella/ond’originecontrollée”,etc.

•  Commodifica/onandstandardiza/onvs.transforma/onandrevitaliza/on•  Tradi/onvs.innova/on(which“new”skillsarenecessarytorepresent

foodas“heritage”?)

TherepresentaMvelistoftheIntangibleCulturalHeritageofHumanity

ThegastronomicmealoftheFrench:ThegastronomicmealoftheFrenchisacustomarysocialprac/ceforcelebra/ngimportantmomentsinthelivesofindividualsandgroups,suchasbirths,weddings,birthdays,anniversaries,achievementsandreunions.Itisafes/vemealbringingpeopletogetherforanoccasiontoenjoytheartofgoodea/nganddrinking.Thegastronomicmealemphasizestogetherness,thepleasureoftaste,andthebalancebetweenhumanbeingsandtheproductsofnature.Importantelementsincludethecarefulselec/onofdishesfromaconstantlygrowingrepertoireofrecipes;ac/onsduringconsump/on,suchassmellingandtas/ngitemsatthetable.Theapéri-f(drinksbeforethemeal)andendingwithliqueurs,containinginbetweenatleastanddessert.Individualscalledgastronomeswhopossessdeepknowledgeofthetradi/onandpreserveitsmemorywatchoverthelivingprac/ceoftherites,thuscontribu/ngtotheiroraland/orwri=entransmission,inpar/culartoyoungergenera/ons.Thegastronomicmealdrawscirclesoffamilyandfriendsclosertogetherand,moregenerally,strengthenssocial/es.(UNESCO,2010,citedinBrulo=e,DiGiovine,EdibleIden//es,2014,Routledge)

TherepresentaMvelistoftheIntangibleCulturalHeritageofHumanity

GingerbreadCra4fromNorthernCroa-a:“Thetradi/onofgingerbreadmakingappearedincertainEuropeanmonasteriesduringtheMiddleAgesandcametoCroa/awhereitbecameacrap.Gingerbreadcrapspeople,whoalsomadehoneyandcandles,workedintheareaofNorthernCroa/a…thecraphasbeenpassedonfromonegenera/ontoanotherforcenturies,ini/allytomen,butnowtobothmenandwomen.GingerbreadhasbecomeoneofthemostrecognizablesymbolsofCroa/aniden/ty.Today,gingerbreadmakersareessen/alpar/cipantsinlocalfes/vals,eventsandgatherings,providingthelocalpeoplewithasenseofiden/tyandcon/nuity”(UNESCO,2010,citedinBrulo=e,DiGiovine,EdibleIden/tes,2014,Routledge)

“AuthenMcity”

•  Authen/cityasacultural“myth”concerningthecountryside(ruralvs.urbanlife)“themythonruralasidyllseestheruralascharacterisedbypeaceandquiet,cleanliness,safety,socialinclusiveness,pituresqueloca/ons,harmonywithnatureandwholesomewaysoflife(sustainable)whereasthemythicalcounterpart…theurbanasrepresentedbynoise,dirt,danger,socialisola/on,ugliness,andunhealthywaysoflife(unsustainable)”(Frisvoll,2013,p.288)

•  Authen/cityasan“asset”forruraltourism(S.Frisvoll2013)•  Frisvoll(2013):whereisauthen/cityinruralcontexts?

1)Cer/fica/ons;2)buildings;3)food;4)prac/ces.•  G.deSt.Maurice(inBrulo=e,DiGiovine2014):Authen/cityin:1)Origin(place);2)Content(seeds);3)Process(farmingtechniques);4)Historicalcon/nuity(ancestors).(researchonKyoto,Japan)

•  R.Brulo=e(inBrulo=e,DiGiovine2014):WeshouldNOTdebateonthe“trueorfake”authen/cityoffood.

StandardizaMonC.Grasseni,“Re-inven/ngfood:Alpinecheeseintheageofglobalheritage”(AnthropologyofFood,2011)“withincircuitsofheritagiza/on,foodisbeingrediscoveredandreinvented,bothasameansoflocaldevelopmentandasabearerofcollec/veterritorialiden//es.Nevertheless,thisprocessrequiresacertainamountofstandardiza/onofthefooditselfandofitspublicizedimages.Forinstance,marke/ngfoodaslocalheritagemaybe/edtomarke/ngaplaceasastereotypicaliconoftherurallandscapewithtouris/cappeal”-  Theformaliza/onandregimenta/onofproduc/onprotocols,especiallyinviewofobtaining

EUacknowledgedgeographicaldenomina/on-  “Alpinecheeseisthusincreasinglyproducedintypicalenvironmentsbutinstandardways”.-  “Diversitybecomesacommodityandwhatistypicalissubjectedtostandards”.-  Theroleoflocaltacitknowledgeisnottakenintoaccount.

-  Boundarymakingisproblema/c(seethecaseof“Bi=o”cheese)

-  “atlasoftypicalproducts,guidestoecotourismanddidac/cfarms,booksofrecipes,cataloguesoffood-ar/sans,mapsoftypicalproducts,wine-andcheese-roadsandevencheeseiden/ty-cards.Ontheonehandthiscommunica/onexposureiscontribu/ngtorecognizingfoodasafundamentalpartoflocalheritage;ontheotherhanditturnsintoanobjectofspectacleforurbanaudiences”.

2)Foodheritageandtourism

•  Foodheritageandtherevitaliza/onoflocalcommuni/es/economies;

•  “Ediblesouvenirs”;•  Consump/onofethniccuisine(notonlyastouriststravellinginothercountries,butalsoasrestaurantclientsinyourownci/es);

•  Culinarytourism;•  Heritagecuisine;•  Touris/ccuisine.

FoodtourismandreligioustourismThestudybyM.DiGiovineinPietrelcina(provinceofBenevento,SouthernItaly)

InPietrelcina:3,000inhabitantsand600,000(religious)touristsyearly•  Sincethe1970s,crisisoftradi/onalfarmingintheregion–and

flightfromruralareas•  Sincethelate1990s,withtheprocessofbea/fica/onofPadrePio

andthegrowthintourisminPietrelcina,aprocessoffoodheritagiza/onoccurs(the“tradi/onal”ar/chokes;thetradi/onal“cicatelli”–supposedhand-madepasta);

•  Foodheritageassouvenirandiden/tymarker;•  Home-cookedfood(“cucinacasereccia”)becomesheritagecuisine;•  Foodheritageasrevitaliza/onoflocaleconomy(tourism,

agriculture,etc.)andlocaliden/ty?

“Theprepara/onofar/chokesinPietrelcinaisoneofthetown’smostancienttradi/ons,andthear/chokeispresentineveryfarmer’sgarden–astes/fiedbytheaffirma/onthat‘stuffedar/chokes’wasoneofSt.PadrePio’sfavouritedishes.Itisadishofnotablenutri/onalandfunc/onalvalue,andcangeneratealevelofrevenuethatiscompe//vewithtobacco.Itisforthisreasonthatitcanbefullyintegrateintodiscoursesofproduc/vereconversion”(citedinMichaelDiGiovine,“TheEverydayasExtraordinary:Revitaliza/on,Religion,andtheEleva/onofCucinaCaserecciatoHeritageCuisineinPietrelcina,Italy”)

HeritagefoodtourismandEcomuseums(C.Grasseni)

TwoEcomuseumsontheAlps,“foundedwithlocalandregionalins/tu/onalsupport…strategicconvergencewithlocalcommercialstrategiesaimingatcas/nglocalfoodstuffsas‘typical’inordertocapitalizeontheirpatrimonializaMonasculturallocalheritage”•  ThetwoEcomuseumsofthe“VallidelBi=o”,aimingatdefendingtradi/onalcheeserecipesinthefaceofstandardiza/on(supportedbylocalSlowFood)

•  TheEcomuseumValTaleggio...(asastrategytoiden/fyadis/nc/velocalitywithaspecificlocalproduct)Taleggiocheesevs.Strachituntcheese.

HeritagefoodtourismandEcomuseums(C.Grasseni)

•  Boundarymakingasakeyelementinthesocialconstruc/onoffoodasheritage(whichistheextensionoftheareaofproduc/on?);

•  Conflictsoverboundarymakingand“true”heritage;•  The“namewar”:whohastherighttocontrolthe“name”ofthe

protectedfood?•  Diversityvs.Standardiza/on(whichrela/onshipbetween“quality”

andstandardiza/on?)•  Industrialproduc/onvs./picity•  Howtoobtainthe(protec/onofthe)geographicalindica/on?

•  Foodheritageandtherevitaliza/onofthelocaleconomy.•  Diversitybecomesacommodity,andtradi/onbecomesa

patrimony

3)Foodheritageandagriculture

•  Can“foodheritage”(anditsuseinthetourismindustry)bealeverageforlocaldevelopment?

•  Can“foodheritage”(anditsuseinthetourismindustry)bealeverageforruraldevelopmentandagriculturaldevelopment?

•  Weshouldaskwhatis“rural”,howfoodisproducedanddistributed...•  ...andexplorethetrasforma/onsinagri-foodsupplychainsinSouthern

Europeoverthelast30yearsandtheroleofsupermarketchains...

•  “Tradi/onal”and“authen/c”foodas“qualityfood”vs.Industrialized/standardizedfood...

•  The“qualityturn”ofItalianagricultureandthe“MadeinItalyconsensus”

•  “Foodfromnowhere”and“foodfromsomewhere”.

Whatis“rural”?Howisfoodproduced?

Almeria,Spain


Ragusa(Sicily),la“fasciacos/eratrasformata”(the“transformedli=oralstrip”)PicturebyValeriaPiro.



Processingtomatomanualharvesters–Puglia(Italy)


Rosarno(Calabria)–The“revolt”ofmigrantcitrusharvestersinJanuary2010

Howisfooddistributed?Sharesof(freshandprocessed)foodretailinItaly

(ItalianAnMtrustAuthority–Report2013)

1996 2011

Distribuzionemoderna(GDeDO)

50% 72%

Commercioalde=agliotradizionale

41% 18%

Altricanali(commercioambulante,acquis/direxpressoaziendeagricole,ecc.)

9% 10%

Howisfooddistributed?Supermarketchains’impactonagri-foodsystems

•  Fromproducer-driventoretailer-drivenagri-foodsupplychains;•  Supermarketchainsasnew«foodauthori/es»,fosteringnew

waysofconsump/onandproduc/on,throughthecontroloverdistribu/on;

•  The“buyerpower”•  Adownwardpressuresonagriculturalproducts’prices;•  Foodsuppliersarerequested/obligedtorespectproduc/on

standards:-  Quan/tytobedeliveredtotheretailchain;-  Standardiza/onovertheaspectandtasteoffoodproducts;-  Foodsafetyprocedures;-  Managementofthelogis/csofthedelivery.

“Supermarket-own-brands”or“privatelabels”

Theliberaliza/onoftheinterna/onalagri-foodmarkets

M.Fonte,I.Cucco(2015)The“qualityturn”ofItalianagricultureinthe1990s

definingwhatisalterna/veagricultureinItalyisachallenge.Actuallynobodyseemstobedefendinganindustrializedmodelofagriculturaldevelopment,homogeniza/onofproducts,standardiza/onofagriculturalprac/cesandglobaliza/onofsourcingandtastes.Everybodywouldinsteadagreewiththenewruraldevelopmentparadigm,whichadvocatesthevaloriza/onofregionalagro-ecologicaldiversityinfoodandagriculture.Asaresultofthisevolu/on,‘alterna/ve’and‘conven/onal’socialforcestoalargeextentintersectandoverlap.

[Inthe1990s]a‘MadeinItalyconsensus’developed,uni/ngawidecoali/onofinterestsintheagricultureandfoodsector.Na/onalproduc/oncametobeseennotonlyasaguaranteeofqualitybutalsoasagoodmarke/ngstrategywiththepoten/altorespondtoconsumeranxietyonfoodSlowFoodpromotestheideaofculturaldiversityandatthesame/medevelopsmarke/ngstrategiesforencouragingconsumerstobuylocalendangeredfoods.Itsstrategyisnotopposi/onaltothefoodindustryorfoodcapital…Individualbehavioralchangeinresponsetoinforma/onbroughttoconsumerswillthusbringaboutchangeinthewholefoodsystem.

InourfarmingAtlas,wecancount4,471typicalproducts…itisclearhowmuchouragricultureconcernstherootsofourcommunity,thedeeprootsofourterritories,thearchaiciden/tyofourCountry,ofitsregions,itsprovinces,itsmunicipali/es.TogrowcapersinPantelleria,saffroninAbruzzo,riceinthePoValley,vineyardsinFriuli,isnobleanddifficult.Thedefenceofthis/picalitymeansthedefenceofthehistoryofourcommuni/es,becausebehindaproductthereisalwaysthecollec/vebiographyandthewisdomofthementhatforcenturieshavebeenlivingonthatterritoryandhavebeenabletotransformit.Ofcours,allthiscan’tleaveasidethemarket(pp.27-28).Forthefirst/me,inthehistoryofMcDonalds’...Italianpeasant,andthusqualityagriculture,enteredthemaindoorofthemostimportantglobalretailerofprocessedfood…asandwichmadeupwithcer/fiedItalianbread,withItalianoliveoil,Italianmeat,AsiagocheesePDO,Bataviasalad,andadecora/onwithRomanar/chokescouldrepresentthepresupposi/onforanewandrichbusinessforthecorpora/on(pp.32-3).LucaZaia(LegaNord)ItalianMinisterofAgriculture2008-2010,sincethenPresidentoftheVenetoRegion.BookAdo:arelaterra(pernonmoriredifame),Mondadori,2010

Forus,thedefenceofgeographicalmarksmeanstodefendtheeconomyofourterritories.Forthisreason,asMinistry,weproposed–forthefirst/meintheworld–tothee-commerceglobalplayerstogivetoourPDOandPGIgeographicalmarksthesamedefencetheyguaranteetothecommercialbrands.[…]Today,giantsasebay,GoogleandAlibabaremovethousandstonnesoffakeparmesan,granapadano,mozzarillaorchian/fromtheirvirtualaisles.Wearethecountryofbiodiversity,withmorethan500varie/esofvineyards[...]Everywhereinourterritories,winerepresentaniden/ty,historicalandculturaltrait:itispartofourDNA.[...]ItisnotacaseifinApril2016,acolossusofthee-commercesuchasAlibabahaslaunchedachallengetoalltheItalianproducers:tomakeItalythecountryofreferenceforthewineonAlibabasoon.

MaurizioMarMna(DemocraMcparty)ItalianMinistryofAgriculture2014-2018)BookDallaterraall’Italia.StoriedalfuturodelpaeseMondadori,2017,pp.90and101)

“Wewanttoeattheproductsofourland,notthosearrivingfromtheothersideoftheworld.LetRenzieatwhatarrivesfromtheotherpartoftheworld.Wewanttoeatanddrinkthefruitsofourwork,thefruitsofourland,fromTrentotoPalermo.Becausewesupporttheworkofourpeople”.MaFeoSalvini,na/onalleaderoftheLegaNordParty,discourseinDuomoSquare,Milan,duringthedemonstra/onnamed“Stopall’invasione”,Milan,14october2014(showingtothedemonstratorstwoapplesfromValtellinainNorthernItaly)h=ps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2pfZajgea

Retailstrategies

•  h=ps://www.auchan.it/it-IT-it/sta/c/passioni.aspx

Retailstrategies

AuthenMcvs.industrialfood?

…atensioninglobalagri-foodsystems,between:-  theindustrializa/on/retailiza/on/produc/vism/

neoliberaliza/onofagricultureandfood,-  theemphasison“typical”,“tradi/onal”,“local”,quality,

“excellent”,“/ed-with-the-territory”foodproducts(thela=erdiscourseisgrowinglyusedbypoli/calactors,mul/na/onalcorpora/ons,retailchains,etc,i.e.thesameactorsthatweusuallyconsiderasac/velyengagedintheformerkindofprocesses).InItaly,witha“moralis/c”and“na/onalist”accent.…byfocusingonthecaseofthepomodoripela-(wholepeeledtomatoes)produc/oninSouthernItaly.

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Course “Tourism prac/ces and society” Module II “Global