Crestview Chicken Coop Kitaustinurbancoops.com/assemblyguides/CrestviewCoop... · 11.10.2009 · Thank you for purchasing our Crestview Chicken Coop kit. We are sure it will give

© 2009 Austin Kontore LLC Page 1 of 54

Chicken Coop Kit

The Crestview

Assembly Guide

Version 20091011H

Austin Kontore LLC

Austin, TX

kontore.net

512-436-0512


Introduction

Thank you for purchasing our Crestview Chicken Coop kit. We are sure it will give you years of

enjoyment.

Technical Support

If you have any questions during assembly, please give us a call at 512-436-0512 or send an e-mail with

your question to [email protected].

Special Symbols

��

Repeat

The preceding step, or series of steps, will need to be repeated. This is often

the case when more than one Door or Fixed Panel needs to be built, with each

item being built in an identical manner.

� Important

An important note, which should be read before performing a step, or series

of steps. Used to avoid potential assembly problems.

�

Goal More information on what you are trying to accomplish during a given step.

��

Note An informational note, used to further explain the reasoning behind a step.

Assembly Overview

1. Build Panel Units (fixed panels and panel door). There are three of these.

2. Build Screen Units (fixed screens and screen doors). There are five of these.

3. Assemble the Core Structure, made of prefabricated squares and posts.

4. Mount Door Slide Rails. There are five of these.

5. Mount Inside Rails. A set of two.

6. Install pre-fabricated Roof.

7. Install final Fixed Screen Unit.

8. Test Door action.

9. Install Extras, like the Roost and Nesting Box slats.

10. Sand and Stain the completed coop.


Required Tools

�

Electric or hand drill. A cordless power drill is preferred, but any kind

will work.

� 1/8” drill bit, for wood.

�

Power screw driver with Phillips bit or Phillips screw driver. A power

driver will make assembly much easier.

�

Post level (highly recommended). Makes alignment of posts

(uprights) much easier, since it uses bubbles in the key directions.

“Wraps around” the post and is held with a rubber band.

� Small 6” to 18” level, though any level up to 28” will work.

�

Staple Gun. Either manual or electric, but electric will make screen

assembly easier.

�

Clamps. One-handed bar clamps (Irwin Quick Grip) are easy to work

with. Must have a 4” opening. (Standard 6” to 8” models are fine.)

�

Painting equipment (paintbrush, tray, rags, et cetera)


Required Materials

�

3/8” staples for the Staple Gun.

You will need a box of at least 250. Most have at least 1000.

�

Exterior grade wood glue, such as TiteBond II. This is optional

and used only for the “weather strips” on the doors, where it

provides additional strength.

�

A quart of exterior “deck” sealant.

For the Cedar version of the coop, a clear Linseed Oil based

product is recommended. For our assembled version we use

“Olympic WaterGuard for Wood”, which is available in 1 or 5

gallon sizes.

The Pine version of the coop must be sealed (for example, with

WaterGuard), or it can be painted with an exterior grade

product.

Only the Pine version can be painted. You should not paint Cedar

– only seal it with a Linseed Oil based product.


Included Materials

Description Quantity Photo

� 20 ½" high Upper Fixed Frames 3

� 22” high Upper Door Frame 1

� 17" high Lower Fixed Frames 2

� 19" high Lower Door Frames 2

� 16” x 30” 5mm Plywood Panels 2

� 17” x 30” 5mm Plywood Panel 1

� 16” x 30” Hardware Cloth (Screen) 3

� 12” x 30” Hardware Cloth (Screen) 2

� 19” predrilled wood weather strips 2

� 17” predrilled wood weather strips 4

� 3’ x 3’ Core Square (prefabricated) 3

� 2” x 2” by 4’ Cedar Posts 4

� Door Slide Rails (prefabricated) 5


�

Roof Unit

(prefabricated, with roofing material

attached to a wooden frame)

1

� 34” Roost with (4) wood screws

(prefabricated, with “L” brackets attached) 1

� 1 ¼” Drywall Screws (black)

(for mounting inside rails) 8

� 24” Inner Rails 2

� 34” Nesting Box Slats 2

� 2” “L” Brackets

(for mounting roof) 4

� ½” Lathe Screws

(for mounting roof) 16

� ¾” Lathe Screws

(for attaching plywood panels) 48

� 1 ¼” Exterior Grade Screws (green) 20

� 1 5/8” Exterior Grade Screws (green) 48

� 3” Exterior Grade Screws (green) 10


Master Checklist

Use the Master Checklist to keep track of your overall progress.

It’s a good idea to pull out these next three pages and use them to monitor your progress.

�

Build (2) 20 ½” fixed panel units for the upper level.

These make up the two solid sides of the coop.

�

Build (1) 22” door panel unit for the upper level.

This is the upper solid door.

�

Build (1) 20 ½” fixed screen unit for the upper level.

This is the screen opening for the upper level.

�

Build (2) 17” fixed screen units for the lower level.

These two screens are for the lower part of the coop and

do not open.

�

Build (2) 19” door screen units for the lower level.

These lower screen doors allow access to chicken runs,

and allow for food and water replenishment.


�

Assemble the Core Structure, Lower Level.

The base of the coop.

�

Assemble the Core Structure, Middle Level.

Includes the installation of the two Lower Fixed Screens.

�

Assemble the Core Structure, Upper Level.

Includes the installation of the two Upper Fixed Panels.

�

Mount the Door Slide Rails.

Three are mounted on one side of the coop, two are

mounted on the opposite side of the coop.

�

Mount the Inside Rails.

These are used to hold the support slats for nest boxes

and roosts.

�

Install the Roof assembly.

This pre-fabricated assembly consists of a wooden frame

with corrugated tin roofing material fastened to it. All

fastener holes have been sealed with high quality silicon.


�

Final Screen Unit mounting.

The upper fixed screen unit is installed and the doors are

slid into place and tested.

�

Test all of the Doors.

The doors are slid into place and tested. The Crestview

model has three sliding doors: One upper, two lower.

�

Install the extras.

Now that the unit is assembled and tested, additional

features are added. These include the roost and the

nesting box slates. Optional features, such as pull handles

for the doors and security eye hooks (to lock the sliding

doors), are also installed.

�

Sand and Stain the completed coop.

The coop is now complete, and ready for standing and

staining. (You make chose to paint the Pine version.)


20 ½” Fixed Panel Units

For Upper Level

� (2) 20 ½" high Upper Fixed

Panel Frames

� (2) 16” x 30” 5mm Plywood

Panels

� (20) ¾” Lathe Screws

(Ten for each Frame)

Two Fixed Panels will be built in this section. A Fixed Panel is a frame (already assembled) which has a

sheet of 5 mm plywood attached to it. These units will later be fastened to the upper level of the coop,

making two solid sides.

� Take one of the 20 ½” frames and lay the frame on a work

bench with the stapled corners facing up.

�

Using a 16” x 30” 5mm Plywood Panel, align the panel on

the frame. Ensure that the top and bottom edges are

aligned.

On the top and bottom left side of the frame, make

alignment marks with a pencil.

�Goal: Have an equal amount of overlap on the top and

the bottom.

� Repeat this process on the top right and top bottom side

of the frame.


�

Follow this same process to align and mark the left and

right sides of the panel.

�Goal: Have an equal amount of overlap on the left and

right sides.

�

Using the marks made above, center the 5 mm plywood

panel within the frame.

� Important: Make sure that the darker; more

attractive, side of the plywood is facing down. This is the

side that will be facing outwards.

� The 5 mm plywood panel should have an even alignment

on the top, bottom, left, and right.

�

Drill pilot holes in top center and bottom center of 5mm

panel. Holes should be about ¾" from edge of the 5 mm

plywood.

� Important: Don’t drill too deep! You don’t want to

drill through the entire thickness of the wood. A hole

about ½” in depth is sufficient.

�

Use (2) ¾" Lathe screws to attach the plywood panel to

the frame.

�

Drill holes about 4” from each corner (total of 8 holes, 2

for each corner) about ¾” from edge of the plywood.


� Attach with ¾" Lathe screws. There will be (2) screws per

corner, totaling (8) for the corners.

� In total you will use (10) ¾” Lathe screws. Two for the

center, and eight for the corners.

�

�� REPEAT: Use the other 20 ½” Frame and 16” x 30”

5mm plywood Panel to make a second Fixed Panel Unit.

When complete, you will have two assembled 20 ½” Fixed

Panel Units.


22” Door Panel Unit

For Upper Level

� (1) 22” high Upper Frame

� (1) 17” x 30” 5mm Plywood

Panel


(for the Plywood)

� (2) 19” predrilled wood

weather strips


(for the weather strips)

� Exterior Wood Glue

(Optional)

One door will be built in this section. A Panel Door consists of a frame (already assembled) which has a

sheet of 5 mm plywood attached to it. Then “weather strips” are fastened to the edges (to fill in gaps

between the door and the posts). This unit will later slide into the upper level Door Slide Rails and will

be how you will access the upper portion of the coop.

� Take the 22” frame and lay it on a work bench with the

stapled corners facing up.

�

Using the 17” x 30” 5mm Plywood Panel, align the panel

on the frame. Ensure that the top and bottom edges are

aligned.

On the top and bottom left side of the frame, make

alignment marks with a pencil.

�Goal: Have an equal amount of overlap on the top and

the bottom.


� Repeat this process on the top right and top bottom side

of the frame.

�

Follow this same process to align and mark the left and

right sides of the panel.

�Goal: Have an equal amount of overlap on the left and

right sides.

�

Using the marks made above, center the 5 mm plywood

panel within the frame.

� Important: Make sure that the darker; more

attractive, side of the plywood is facing down. This is the

side that will be facing outwards.

� The 5 mm plywood panel should have an even alignment

on the top, bottom, left, and right.

Drill pilot holes in top center and bottom center of 5mm

panel. Holes should be about ¾" from edge of the 5 mm

plywood.



about ½” in depth is sufficient.

�

Use (2) ¾" Lathe screws to attach the plywood panel to

the frame.


�

Drill holes about 4” from each corner (total of 8 holes, 2

for each corner) about ¾” from edge of the plywood.

� Attach with ¾" Lathe screws. There will be (2) screws per

corner, totaling (8) for the corners.

� In total you will use (10) ¾” Lathe screws. Two for the

center, and eight for the corners.

� Insert three ¾” Lathe screws (finger tight) into each 19”

piece of pre-drilled weather stripping.

�

Align the 19” piece of weather stripping to the edge of the

door assembly. The edge of the weather stripping should

be flush with the edge of the door.

Optional: When attaching the weather stripping you can

apply a thin coat of glue between the wooden strip and

the door. The glue will augment the three Lathe screws to

provide additional strength.

�

Make sure that the 19” piece of weather stripping is

equally spaced between the top and bottom edges of the

door.

There should be about 1” of space between the

top/bottom edge of the door and the strip.


�

Using a screwdriver, fasten the center hole. (Pre-drilling is

not necessary.)

Double-check the alignment and fasten the other two

Lathe screws.

Optional: If using glue, apply the glue before fastening the

strip with screws.

�

Once the one side of the door is complete, repeat with the

other.

��Note: The door has two pieces of 19” weather stripping.

Both are mounted on the inside of the door, at the edges.


20 ½" Fixed Screen Unit

For Upper Level

� (1) 20 ½” high Upper Fixed

Frame

� (1) 16” x 30” piece of

Hardware Cloth (Screen)

� Staples

One Fixed Screen will be built in this section. A Fixed Screen is a frame (already assembled) which has a

piece of hardware cloth (strong mesh) stapled to it. This unit will later be fastened to the upper level of

the coop, making an open side.

� Take the 20 ½” frame and lay it on a work bench with the

stapled corners facing up.

�

Take a 16” x 30” piece of Hardware Cloth and center the

screen within the opening of the frame. There should be 1

½” of overlap on the top and bottom and 1 ½” overlap on

each side.

��Note: Be careful of sharp edges.

� Staple the screen to the frame. Start with a staple in the

center top and another at the center bottom.


�

Staple out from the center, placing staples about 3” apart.

� Important: Make sure to keep mesh flat and taut

while stapling.

�

Staple down the sides and corners.

Use enough staples to keep the Hardware Cloth securely

mounted to the frame.


17” Fixed Screen Units

For Lower Level

� (2) 17" high Lower Fixed

Screen Frames

� (2) 12” x 30” pieces of


� Staples

Two Fixed Screens will be built in this section. A Fixed Screen is a frame (already assembled) which has a

piece of hardware cloth (strong mesh) stapled to it. These units will later be fastened to the lower level

of the coop, making up two of the sides.

� Take one of the 17” frames and lay it on a work bench

with the stapled corners facing up.

�


screen within the opening of the frame. There should be

1” of overlap on the top and bottom and 2” overlap on

each side.





�



while stapling.

�




�

�� REPEAT the process for the other 17” Frame and 12” x

30” piece of Hardware Cloth.

The end result will be two 17” Fixed Screen Units.


19” Screen Door Units

For Lower Level

� (2) 19" high Lower Fixed

Screen Frames

� (2) 16” x 30” pieces of


�

(4) 17” predrilled wood

weather strips

(Two for each door)

� (12) ¾" Lathe screws

(Six for each door)

� Staples

� Exterior Wood Glue

(Optional)

Two doors will be built in this section. A Screen Door consists of a frame (already assembled) which has

a piece of hardware cloth (strong mesh) stapled to it. Then “weather strips” are fastened to the edges

(to fill in gaps between the door and the posts). This unit will later slide into the Lower level Door Slide

Rails and will be how you will access the lower portion of the coop. One side will be for a run, the other

for food and water access.

� Take one of the 19” frames and lay it on a work bench

with the stapled corners facing up.

�


screen within the opening of the frame. There should be

1” of overlap on the top and bottom and 2” overlap on

each side.





�



while stapling.

�




� Insert three ¾” Lathe screws (finger tight) into each 17”

pieces of pre-drilled weather stripping.

�

Align the 17” piece of weather stripping to the edge of the

door assembly. The edge of the weather stripping should

be flush with the edge of the door.

Optional: When attaching the weather stripping you can

apply a thin coat of glue between the wooden strip and

the door. The glue will augment the three Lathe screws to

provide additional strength.

�

Make sure that the 17” piece of weather stripping is

equally spaced between the top and bottom edges of the

door.

There should be about 1” of space between the

top/bottom edge of the door and the strip.


�

Using a screwdriver, fasten the center hole. (Pre-drilling is

not necessary).

Double-check the alignment and fasten the other two

Lathe screws.

Optional: If using glue, apply the glue before fastening the

strip with screws.

�

Once the one side of the door is complete, repeat with the

other.

��Note: Each door has two pieces of 17” weather stripping.

Both are mounted on the inside of the door, at the edges.

�

�� REPEAT the process for the other 19” Frame, 16” x 30”

piece of Hardware Cloth, and two 17” weather strips.

The end result will be two 19” Screen Door Units.


Core Structure:

Lower Level

� (1) 3’ x 3’ Core Square

(prefabricated)

� (4) 2” x 2” by 4’ Cedar Posts

� (16) 1 5/8” screws

Now that the Screen and Panel Units are complete, the Core assembly can begin. In this section, the

foundation of the coop is assembed. This consists of four Posts, and one prefabricated Core Square.

Note that a helper will make this process easier, though we have refined this process so that a single

person can assemble without much hassle.

�

Lay the 3’ x 3’ Core Square on flat level surface. A garage

floor is perfect for this.

Starting at one corner, take one 2” x 2” post and insert it

into one corner of the Core Square.

�

The Post will not fall over, thanks to the corner brace, but

needs to be held in place during the drilling and fastening

process.

Using a post level, or a regular level, hold the Post so that

it is plumb (vertical; not tilting).

�Goal: The Post needs to be perfectly upright, pressing

against the corner of the prefabricated frame. The Post

Level will make this process a lot easier if you do not have

a helper.

�

Drill a hole about ¾” from the top of the Core Square. The

hole should be approximately 1 ½” deep and go through

the Core and into the Post.

� Important: Hold the pieces tightly while drilling, so

that the Post remains plumb.


�

Fasten the Post to the corner of the Core Square with one

1 5/8” screw.

� Important: Make sure to hold the Post tightly to the

inside corner while fastening the screw, and don’t allow it

to go out of plumb. A helper will make this process easier.

�

On the adjacent corner (still working with the first Post),

drill a hole about 1 ¼” from the top of the Core Square.

The hole should be approximately 1 ½” deep and go

through the Core and into the Post.

� Fasten the Post to the corner of the Core Square with one

1 5/8” screw.

� At this point you will have two 1 5/8” screws in place.


�

Return to the previous side and drill the next hole. It will

be about 1 ¼” off the ground.

� Important: When you are drilling these holes, avoid

placing them directly in the middle. The center of the

Core Square needs to remain clear, as additional screws

will be added later (to fasten the Door Rails).

�

Pre-drill the adjacent hole, about ¾” from the ground.

�Goal: The holes are staggered so that the screws do

not “run into” each other while you are fastening them.

� Fasten the Post to the corner of the Core Square with

one 1 5/8” screw.

� On the adjacent side, fasten the Post to the corner of

the Core Square with one 1 5/8” screw.

� The post will now be secured with (4) 1 5/8” screws.

�

�� REPEAT the process for the other (3) 2” x 2” x 4’

Posts and the remaining (12) 1 5/8” screws.

�Goal: The end result will be four Posts attached to

the Base Core Square. This is coop’s foundation.


Core Structure:

Middle Level

� (1) 3’ x 3’ Core Square

(prefabricated)

� (2) 17” Fixed Screen Units

� (16) 1 5/8” screws

(to fasten the core)

� (8) 1 ¼” screws

(to fasten the fixed screens)

Now that the foundation is laid, the middle level of the coop is installed. In this section the middle Core

Square is installed, along with the two lower Fixed Screen units.

Be careful when installing the middle level. It needs to be level on all sides. Using the Fixed Screens as

“helping hands” makes this process much easier.

�

On each of the four mounted posts, make a pencil mark 24”

from the floor.

� Important: Make sure to measure from the floor, not from

the top of the foundation Core Square.

�

Place a 17” Fixed Screen Unit (which you assembled earlier) on

top of the lower Core Square. Clamp to a post so that it doesn’t

fall down.

�

On the opposite side from the Fixed Screen Unit you just

clamped, place the other 17” Fixed Screen Unit on top of the

lower Core Square. Clamp it to a post, as you did in the

previous step.

��Note: Having these Fixed Screen Units temporarily held in

place allows you to more easily the middle level Core Square.


� Slide the 3’ x 3’ middle Core Square through the four posts until

it sits on top of the two clamped Fixed Screen Units.

�

Once the middle prefab square is in place, the unit will look like

this. The middle Core Square is sitting on top of the top Fixed

Screen Units.

�

� Important: Verify that top of the middle Core Square is

24” high – it should line up with the pencil marks you made

previously.

� Using a small level, ensure that the Middle Core Square is level.

�

Drill a hole about ¾” from the top of the Middle Square. The

hole should be approximately 1 ½” deep and go through the

Core and into the Post.

� Important: Hold the pieces tightly while drilling.

�

Fasten the Post to the corner of the Core Square with one 1

5/8” screw.

��Note: The first corner of the Middle Core Square is now

secured and ready for more drilling and fastening.


�

On the adjacent corner (still working with the first Post), drill a

hole about 1 ¼” from the top of the Core Square.

On the same corner, drill a hole about ¾” from the bottom.

�

Return to the previous side and drill the final hole. It will be

about 1 ¼” off the bottom edge of the Core Square.

�Goal: The holes are staggered so that the screws do not

“run into” each other while you are fastening them.

�

Fasten the Post to the corner of the Core Square with the

remaining three 1 5/8” screws.

� Important: Hold the pieces tightly while fastening. The

posts should be tightly held against the Core Square.

�

Rotate coop to the next corner and �� REPEAT the above

process for the remaining three corners of the coop.

��Note: First fasten the corner with one screw, then drill and

fasten with the remaining three screws. Having the one screw

in place makes drilling the other holes easier.

� When you are complete, all four corners of the Middle Core

Square should look like this photo.


�

Now that the Middle Core Square has been secured, the two

17” Fixed Screen units will be permanently attached to the core

of the coop.

��Note: These are the two Screens which are clamped (as a

spacer). Now that everything is level and fastened, it is safe to

permanently fasten them to the frame.

� Important: Make sure that the finished side is facing

outwards. The side with the staples should be facing inside.

�

Confirm that the fixed frame edge is not flush with the Post, but

slightly (about ¼”) inside. This gives the doors room to slide on

their guide rails without bumping into the fixed frame.

�Goal: Center the Fixed Units so that they are centered on

the two Posts. Do not allow them to “stick out” and potentially

affect the sliding doors.

�

Measure 4” from the top and about ¼” from the side edge of

the upper right corner of the 17” Fixed Screen.

Drill a hole approximately 1 ½” deep –enough to go thorough

the Fixed Unit and into the Post.

��Note: You may need to move the clamps out of the way, to

give clearance for drilling and fastening.

�

Measure 4” from the bottom and about ¼” from the side edge

of the lower right corner of the 17” Fixed Screen.

Drill a hole approximately 1 ½” deep.


�


the upper left corner of the 17” Fixed Screen.


�


of the lower left corner of the 17” Fixed Screen.


�

Fasten the Fixed Screen Unit to the Posts with four 1 1/4”

screws.

�

Rotate coop to the opposite side and �� REPEAT the above

process for the remaining 17” Fixed Screen Unit.

Once the two 17” Fixed Screen Units are fastened, remove the

clamps.


Core Structure:

Upper Level

� (1) 3’ x3’ Core Square

(prefabricated)

� (2) 20 ½” Fixed Panel Units

� (16) 1 5/8” screws

(to fasten the core)

� (8) 1 ¼” screws

(to fasten the fixed panels)

The final portion of the Core is built in this section. The upper level Core Square is installed, along with

the two upper Fixed Panel units. Once this section is complete your coop will really start looking like a

structure!

�

Place a 20 ½” Fixed Panel Unit (which you assembled earlier) on

top of the Middle Core Square. Clamp to a post so that it

doesn’t fall down.

� Important: The upper Fixed Panel and the lower Fixed

Screen are on the same side of the coop. The Screen makes up

the lower portion of the side, and the Panel makes up the

upper portion of the side.

On the opposite side from the Fixed Panel Unit you just

clamped, place the other 20 ½” Fixed Panel Unit on top of the

Middle Core Square. Clamp it to a post, as you did in the

previous step.

��Note: Having these Fixed Panel Units temporarily held in

place allows you to more easily install the Upper Core Square.

�

Slide the 3’ x 3’ upper Core Square through the four posts until

it sits on top of the two clamped Fixed Panel Units.

Using a small level, ensure that the Upper Core Square is level.


�

Once the upper prefab square is in place, the unit will look like

this. The upper Core Square is sitting on top of the top Fixed

Panel Units.

�Goal: The upper Core Square should sit flush with the four

posts. It doesn’t have to be exact, but if it is off, the posts

should be slightly lower than the top edge of the Core Square.

�

Optional: Prior to pre-drilling, use a clamp to hold Post to the

corner of the Core Square.

��Note: Clamping helps to keep the joint tight. The Posts may

have a tendency to bow inwards while you are working on the

top portion of the coop.

�

Drill a hole about ¾” from the top of the Middle Square. The

hole should be approximately 1 ½” deep and go through the

Core and into the Post.

� Important: Hold the pieces tightly while drilling. And keep

a level visible, so you can ensure that the piece is level.

�

Fasten the Post to the corner of the Core Square with one 1

5/8” screw.

��Note: The first corner of the Upper Core Square is now

secured and ready for more drilling and fastening.

�

�� REPEAT this process for the remaining three screws on this

corner. Remember to stagger screws on each side of the

corner.

�

Rotate coop to the next corner and �� REPEAT the above

process for the remaining three corners of the coop.

�Note: First fasten the corner with one screw, then drill and

fasten with the remaining three screws. Having the one screw

in place makes drilling the other holes easier.


�

Now that the Upper Core Square has been secured, the two 20

½” Fixed Panel Units will be permanently attached to the core

of the coop.

��Note: These are the two Panel Units which are clamped (as a

spacer). Now that everything is level and fastened, it is safe to

permanently fasten them to the frame.

� Important: Make sure that the finished side is facing

outwards. The side with the screws should be facing inside.

�

Confirm that the fixed frame edge is not flush with the Post, but

slightly (about ¼”) inside. This gives the doors room to slide on

their guide rails without bumping into the fixed frame.

�Goal: Center the Fixed Units so that they are centered on

the two Posts. Do not allow them to “stick out” and potentially

affect the sliding doors.

�


the upper right corner of the 20 ½” Fixed Panel.

Drill a hole approximately 1 ½” deep –enough to go thorough

the Fixed Unit and into the Post.

��Note: You may need to move the clamps out of the way, to

give clearance for drilling and fastening.

�


of the lower right corner of the 20 ½” Fixed Panel.



�


the upper left corner of the 20 ½” Fixed Panel.


�


of the lower left corner of the 20 ½” Fixed Panel.


�

Fasten the Fixed Panel Unit to the Posts with four 1 ¼” screws.

�

Rotate coop to the opposite side and �� REPEAT the above

process for the remaining 20 ½” Fixed Panel.

Once the two 20 ½” Fixed Panels are fastened, remove the

clamps.


Door Slide Rails:

Lower Level

� (2) Door Slide Rails

(prefabricated)

� (6) 1 5/8” Screws

(Three per Door Slide Rail)

� (4) 3” Screws

(Two per Door Slide Rail)

The Door Slide Rails are prefabricated parts which are mounted to the sides of the chicken coop. The

doors slide on these rails. The installation begins at the bottom of the coop and works upwards. Start

with first slide rail at the bottom of the prefab square.

� Important: To make the photographs in this section clearer, the fixed screens and panels were

removed. When building your coop, two of the sides will have the fixed screens and panels installed.

�

Rotate the coop so that an open side is facing you.

Place one of the Door Slide Rails against the side of the

Lower Core Square. The ends should be flush to the edges

of the Posts, and the assembly should be flush with the

top edge of the Core Square.

Use a small level to verify that the Door Slide Rail is level

along its length. (It should be, as this piece will be laying

on the floor.)

Clamp the Door Slide Rail in place using two clamps,

located about 12” from the ends.

� Important: Make sure that the Door Slide Rail is

installed on an “open” side of the coop. This is where the

doors will be.


�

Rotate the small level 90 degrees to verify that Door Slide

Rail is even and level with the top of the Lower Core

Square. Adjust the clamps as necessary.

�

The next steps will require drilling and fastening from the

inside of the unit. You can choose to go inside the coop, or

lean over and do the work from the outside.

�

From the inside of the coop, measure 7” from the outer

left edge and make a mark in the center of the Lower Core

Square.

� Measure 7” from the outer right edge and make a mark in

the center of the Lower Core Square.

� Measure 17” from the outer left edge and make a mark in

the center of the Lower Core Square.

�

There should now be three marks spaced out ready for

pre-drilling: A mark toward each end and one in the

middle.


�

Begin by drilling a pilot hole at the left mark.



about 1 ½” in depth is sufficient.

� Drill the center pilot hole.

� Drill the right pilot hole.

� Starting with the center hole, fasten the Door Slide Rail to

the Lower Core Square using a 1 5/8” screw.

� Move to the right hole and fasten the Door Slide Rail to

the Lower Core Square using a 1 5/8” screw.

� Move to the left hole and fasten the Door Slide Rail to the

Lower Core Square using a 1 5/8” screw.

� The Door Slide Rail is now securely mounted from the

inside. The clamps can be removed.


�

From the outside of the coop, measure 1 ½” from the

outer left edge of the Door Slide Rail. Make a mark in the

center of the Rail.

� Measure 1 ½” from the outer right edge of the Door Slide

Rail. Make a mark in the center of the Rail.

�

Drill a pilot hole in the right edge, at the mark just made.

��Note: This pilot hole can be deep, as the parts will be

fastened with a 3” long screw.

� Fasten the outside right corner of the Door Slide Rail to

the Core Square and into the Post using a 3” screw.

�

Drill a pilot hole in the left edge, at the mark previously

made.

� Fasten the outside left corner of the Door Slide Rail to the

Core Square and into the Post using a 3” screw.

�

Rotate coop to the opposite side and �� REPEAT the

above process for the remaining Door Slide Rail.

�Goal: Two lower door slide rails installed on opposite

sides of the coop.


Door Slide Rails:

Middle Level

� (2) Door Slide Rails

(prefabricated)

� (2) 19” Door Screen Units

(fabricated earlier)

� (6) 1 5/8” Screws

(Three per Door Slide Rail)

� (4) 3” Screws

(Two per Door Slide Rail)

Door Slide Rail installation continues. In this section, the two middle level Rails are installed onto the

middle Core Square. The process is almost identical to the previous section, so please reference “Door

Slide Rails: Lower Level” for the details of marking, drilling, and fastening.



�

Rotate the coop so that an open side is facing you. (A side

where you have just installed the lower Door Slide Rail.)

Take one of the 19” Screen Door units and place it inside

the “slot” of the Lower Door Slide Rail.

�

Place one of the Door Slide Rails on top of the Screen

Door.


�

Align the slide rail into position. The ends should be flush

to the edges of the Posts, and the assembly should be

flush with the top edge of the Middle Core Square.

� Place a shim (Popsicle sticks) between the Door Slide Rail

and the Screen Door. There will be one shim at each end.

�

� Important: Make sure both side are shimmed. The

top of the Door Slide Rail should be level with the Middle

Core Square. The Door Slide Rail should also be level along

its length.

�

Once the Door Slide Rail is shimmed, aligned, and level,

clamp the Door Slide Rail in place using two clamps,


�

�� Follow the marking, drilling, and fastening process

followed during the installation of the Lower Door Slide

Rails.

On the inside, mark, drill, and fasten using (3) 1 5/8”

screws.

On the outside, mark, drill, and fasten using (2) 3” screws.

� Rotate coop to the opposite side and �� REPEAT the

above process for the remaining Door Slide Rail.


Door Slide Rails:

Upper Level

� (1) Door Slide Rail

(1) 22” Door Panel Unit


� (3) 1 5/8” Screws

� (2) 3” Screws

The last step of Door Slide Rail installation, the upper level, is handled in this section. Again, the process

is almost identical to the previous two section, so please reference “Door Slide Rails: Lower Level” for

the details of marking, drilling, and fastening. Note that the upper level has only one Door Slide Rail

(unlike the middle and lower levels, which have two).



�

Rotate the coop so that an open side is facing you. (A side

where you have just installed the middle Door Slide Rail.)

Take the 22” Door Panel unit and place it inside the “slot”

of the Middle Door Slide Rail.


�

Align the slide rail into position. The ends should be flush

to the edges of the Posts, and the assembly should be

flush with the top edge of the Upper Core Square.

�

Place a shim (Popsicle sticks) between the Door Slide Rail

and the Screen Door. There will be one shim at each end.

Once the Door Slide Rail is shimmed, aligned, and level,

clamp the Door Slide Rail in place using two clamps,


��Note: This process of shimming and aligning is identical

to the process followed in the “Door Slide Rails: Lower

Level” section. Refer back to that section for details.

�

�� Follow the marking, drilling, and fastening process

followed during the installation of the Lower Door Slide

Rails.

On the inside, mark, drill, and fasten using (3) 1 5/8”

screws.

On the outside, mark, drill, and fasten using (2) 3” screws.

�

At this point all five Sliding Door Rails have been installed.

Two have been installed on one side of the coop (lower

and middle levels). Three have been installed on the other

side of the coop (lower, middle, and upper levels).


Mounting Inside Rails

� (2) 24” Inner Rails

� (8) 1 ¼” drywall Screws

(Four per Inner Rail)

The Inside Rails are two pieces of lumber which are screwed to the inside of the middle Core Square.

They provide a “lip” for mounting Roosts, slats for holding Nesting Boxes, and so on. The spacing of the

screws is not critical, and pilot holes are unnecessary, due to the use of drywall screws.

�

Align the Inner Rail to the inside of middle Core Square on

the same side of a fixed wall.

� Important: Make sure that the Inside Rails are

mounted on the sides with the Fixed Panels and Fixed

Screens. Do not install them on the sides with the Door

Rails.

�

Fasten the Inner Rail to the middle Core Square using 1 ¼”

drywall screws. Place a screw about 1” from each end, and

two more screws toward the middle. Space them evenly.

��Note: There is no need to pre-drill.

�

�� Repeat the above steps for the opposite side of the

unit.

When complete, the two Inner Rails will be fastened to the

middle Core Square using four screws each.


Mounting Roof

� (1) Roof Unit

(prefabricated)

� (4) 2” “L” Brackets

� (16) ½” Lathe Screws

(Four per “L” Bracket)

The coop is really coming together, and having the roof in place will help put the finishing touches on. As

the Roof is prefabricated, this process is quite easy to do. Four brackets are installed, and the Roof

Assembly is fastened to the brackets.

If you have placed the Upper Panel Door in place, you should slide it off and put it aside. Having two

sides accessible will make installing the brackets easier.

�

From the top of the upper Core Square, measure 8” from

edge and align “L” bracket to top edge of the square. The

bracket should be flush.

� With the “L” bracket held in place, make two marks for the

pilot holes.

�

Drill two pilot holes at the marks just made.



about ½” in depth is sufficient. This is a very shallow hole.

�

Fasten the “L” bracket to the Core Square using two ½”

Lathe screws.


�

�� Repeat the above steps for the remaining 3 – “L”

brackets.

Once complete, four “L” brackets will be attached to the

upper Core Square. All brackets will be flush to the top of

the Square.

�

Place the Roof Unit on the top of the coop. It should lie flat

one top of the upper Core Square.

� Important: Position the roof so that the troughs of the

roof are parallel to the doors. In other words, water runoff

should go toward the solid sides of the unit, not onto the

door rails.

�

Align the frame of the Roof Unit with the Core Square.

�Goal: The Roof Unit should be perfectly centered on

the Core. Take some time to make sure that everything is

lined up properly.

�

From inside the coop, fasten the first “L” bracket to the

Roof Unit frame with two ½” Lathe screws.

� ��Note: Fastening the screws will be easier if you hold

down the Roof Unit frame with your fingers while driving

the screws.

� �� Repeat the above steps for the remaining (3) “L”

brackets. The roof is secured when all four “L” brackets are

fastened to the Roof Unit frame.


Installation of 20 ½"

Fixed Screen Unit

� (1) 20 ½” Fixed Screen Unit


� (4) 1 ¼” Screws

Now that the Roof has been secured, the final 20 ½” Fixed Screen will be permanently attached to the

core of the coop. This Fixed unit is attached to the coop exactly the same way as the other fixed units.

�

Confirm that the Fixed Screen frame edges are centered on the

Posts. Since there are no doors to interfere with, the Screen

only needs to be centered.

�

Measure about 4” from the top and about ¼” from the side

edge of the upper right corner of the 20 ½” Fixed Screen.

Drill a hole approximately 1 ½” deep –enough to go through the

Fixed Unit and into the Post.

� �� Repeat this drilling process for the other three corners of

the frame. The holes should be about 4” from the top/bottom

and about ¼” from the edge of the frame.


�

Fasten the Fixed Screen Unit to the Posts with four 1 ¼” screws.


Door Testing

�

(1) 22” Panel Door Unit


�

(2) 19” Screen Door Units


The three doors were fitted earlier during the installation of the Door Slide Rails. In this section, the door

action will be tested and any problems worked through.

�

Slide the three doors into the Door Rails. There are two lower Screen doors, measuring 19” high

and one upper Panel Door measuring 22” high. One side of the unit has two doors: Panel on the

top, Screen on the bottom. The opposite side of the unit has one door: Screen on the bottom.

The doors should slide easily on the Door Rails. You should be able to open the doors from either

direction (sliding left or right).

� Important: Do not force the doors if they do not slide easily. Instead, follow the below

instructions to determine the source of the problem.


Photo Issue Recommendations

Door is binding at the

top. There isn’t

clearance to insert it

into the slide rails.

First confirm that the Door Rails are

positioned properly. All Rails should be

level with the ground. The bottom rail

should be flush with the floor, the middle

rail should be flush with the middle Core

Square. The top rail (only one side of coop)

should be flush with the top of the posts

(its top edge 48” off the ground).

There must be at least 22” of clearance

between the “troughs” of the Upper and

Middle Rails. For the Lower and Middle

Rails the clearance must be at least 19”.

Try rotating the door (flip 180 degrees), or

try the door on the other side of the coop

(for Lower doors only).

In some cases high humidity can cause the

wood to expand. Use a hand plane, or a

power sander, to remove material from

the top or bottom of the door frame (not

the Rails).

Door appears too thick,

and won’t fit into the

slot of the slide rails.

Confirm that the issue is with the door

thickness and not the wooden weather

stripping (see below).

In some cases high humidity can cause the

wood to expand. Use a hand plane, or a

power sander, to remove material from

the face (flat part) of the door frame (not

the Rails). Focus on the portion of the

frame that touches the outer Rail.


Weather stripping

(trim) seems to knock

into the frame.

The door slides well,

except when about to

close completely.

There should be at least ¼” clearance

between the wooden weather strip on the

door and the Core Squares. (As illustrated

in the photo.)

Confirm that all four corners of the

weather strips have adequate clearance.

The doors should be riding on their frames

and the weather strips should never be

touching a Core Square.

Try rotating the door (flip 180 degrees), or

try the door on the other side of the coop

(for Lower doors only).

If the problem persists, use a small hand

saw to trim off the ends of the weather

strip. You can either remove the strip,

trim, and re-mount or cut in place. (You

must cut in place if you glued the weather

strips to the frame.) Typically, trimming ¼”

from each end of the two strips (per door)

will solve the problem. If you use a hand

saw, and cut slowly, you will not damage

the door frame.

Door won’t open in

one or more directions.

Check to see if the door is hitting a fixed

frame (wooden panel or screen). If it is,

confirm that the fixed unit is centered on

the two posts it is screwed to. The frame

should be either flush, or slightly inside, of

the posts. (In the example photo, the fixed

frame is to the right. It is inset about ¼”

from the edge of the post.)

If the fixed frame is overlapping the post,

you will find that the wooden weather

strip will knock into it. If this is happening,

remount the fixed frame so that it

provides adequate clearance. If the issue is

with the lower fixed screens, be sure that

remounting won’t cause a problem with

the door on the opposite side.


Adding The Extras

� (1) Roost

(prefabricated)

� (2) Nesting Box Slats

� Door Handles

(Optional Accessory)

The core of the Coop is complete. Now the additional features can be added: Roosts, Slats for holding

Nesting Boxes, and Handles. These are elements that can be rearranged to suit your needs.

�

First, slide the Upper Door out of the way.

Then place the Roost on the Inner Slats. You may have to pivot

the Roost to fit it into place.

�

The Roost should be placed about 10” from the front (fixed)

screen. Keep enough clearance so that the chickens feel

protected from potential predators approaching the screen.

� The pre-attached “L” brackets should be facing down and be

flush to the Inner Rail (so they can be attached together).

�

Use the packet of (4) wood screws (silver) to fasten the Roost to

the Inside Rails. This will prevent the Roost from moving when

larger birds jump onto it.


� The two pieces of 34” lumber will now be placed on the Inner

Rails. You may have to pivot the pieces to fit it into place.

� The slats should be placed close to the back (Panel Door). Space

them so that your nesting box can be placed on top of them.

�

The slats are not fastened to the coop. This is by design, and

allows you to remove them for cleaning, or in case you wish to

alter the upper level (for example, add your own upper perch

floor, etc).

�

If you have purchased a Run with your Coop, handles will be

provided which can be attached to one of the Lower Screen

Doors. These handles will make opening/closing the sliding

door easier when the Run is in place.


Sanding And Staining

� (1) Completed Coop

�

Staining and Painting

Supplies (Stain, Brushes,

Paint Trays, Sand Paper)

Congratulations! You have completed the assembly of the Crestview Chicken Coop.

It is recommended that a power sander (or sandpaper and a block) be used to remove any residual dirt

or dust from the flat surfaces of the coop. Once sanded, wipe down the coop with a damp cloth and

allow to completely dry.

Cedar Version

The cedar version of the coop should be sealed before it is used outside. Cedar can be left untreated,

but it is recommended that Linseed Oil based product be applied, to add UV and water protection.

“Olympic WaterGuard for Wood” is a good clear wood treatment, allowing you to protect the cedar

while maintaining its natural color.

� Important: Do not try painting cedar – paint will peel over time. Use Linseed Oil based products.

When staining or sealing, pay careful attention to making sure the top surfaces (where water can pool)

are well covered. Also make sure that the base of the coop and the door rails are well coated.

Pine Version

The pine version of the coop requires staining and sealing before it is used outside. Use a good quality

all-in-one waterproofing sealer. The stain/sealer used for decks and fences is perfect, and available in a

number of colors. A dark brown works very well with the pine. Or a product such as “Olympic

WaterGuard for Wood” can be used if you wish a clear treatment.

When staining, pay careful attention to making sure the top surfaces (where water can pool) are well

covered. Also make sure that the base of the coop and the door rails are well coated.

Another option would be to paint the pine. Use any exterior grade paint. Painting the coop allows you to

match the unit with your home or other existing structures.

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Crestview Chicken Coop Kitaustinurbancoops.com/assemblyguides/CrestviewCoop... · 11.10.2009 · Thank you for purchasing our Crestview Chicken Coop kit. We are sure it will give