Culinaria01

RefreshingthePalate

acelebrationof theculinaryarts

may 2010

CULINARIA

THE OKANAGAN INSTITUTE IS A GROUP OF CREATIVE PROFESSIONALS THATHAS GATHERED AROUND THE GOAL OF PROVIDING EVENTS, PUBLICATIONSAND SERVICES OF INTEREST TO ENQUIRING MINDS IN THE OKANAGAN. WEPARTNER WITH INDIVIDUALS, ORGANIZATIONS, INSTITUTIONS ANDBUSINESSES TO ACHIEVE OPTIMAL CREATIVE AND SOCIAL IMPACT. OURMISSION IS TO IGNITE CULTURAL TRANSFORMATION, CATALYZECOLLABORATIVE ACTION, BUILD NETWORKS AND FOSTER SUSTAINABLECREATIVE ENTERPRISES. WE PROVIDE INNOVATIVE CONSULTATION,FACILITATION, PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT AND CREATIVE SERVICES.

W W W . O K A N A G A N I N S T I T U T E . C O M

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CULINARIA

RefreshingthePalateA CELEBRATION OF THE CULINARY ARTS

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EDITED BY KARIN WILSON

okanagan college& the okanagan institute

spring 2010

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Copyright © 2010 Okanagan College.All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in

any form without the written permission of the authors.

refreshing the palate: culinariaPublished as part of Culinaria Initiative at Okanagan College

7000 College Way, Vernon BC v1b 2n5in association with the Okanagan Institute.

Published May 2010issn 1920-5050

ISBN 978-0-9810271-7-3

Culinaria is published 2 times a year. Electronic versions are available,in whole and in part, online at www.okanaganinstitute.com/culinaria

for downloading to computer and mobile devices.

library and archives canada cataloguing in publicationRefreshing the Palate: Culinaria

Edited by Karin WilsonISBN 978-0-9810271-7-3

A catalog record for this publication is available from theNational Library of Canada.

Publisher and designer: Robert MacDonaldPrinted in Canada by Rapid Printing

Karin Wilsonis a writer/broadcaster with more than 20 years experience in jour-nalism and a well-developed taste for both the unusual and therefined. A seeker of food for the senses, Karin’s stories have cov-ered the gamut from the granting of the first J license in BC, to thecontroversial removal of Six Mile Ranch from the Agricultural LandReserve. Her work on both food and agriculture have appeared inOkanagan Arts, BC’s venerable Orchard and Vine, and on CBC Ra-dio. Karin is an associate director of the Okanagan Institute whereshe distinguished herself by hosting the popular weekly Expressseries, and establishing Culinaria in 2007. An award-winning jour-nalist, she currently works for CBC Radio’s Daybreak where she’sbeen known to arrive with homemade marzipan in hand.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

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IntroductionA Celebration of the Culinary Arts

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Jamie Maw Lip ServiceNotes on a Sustainable Food & Wine Culture in the Okanagan

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Karin Wilson The Taste of Money w 9 y

Judie Barta The Best of Both WorldsBringing Mead to the 21st Century

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SPRING CULINARIA MAY 2010

the producers w 16 y

the chefs w 21 y

the recipes w 22 y

the musicians w 25 y

the organizations w 26 y

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INTRODUCTION

A CelebrationoftheCulinaryArts

SPRING CULINARIA 2010

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In years the Okanagan has transformed itself from a valley ofagricultural promise to one of culinary riches. Increasingly anyonewith a hungry palate can choose to elevate eating to the level ofpure pleasure where each singular taste commands the tastebudsto slow down and enjoy.

This is the moment when food transforms itself into art, andcrafting the perfect Okanagan meal requires the right combinationof thoughtful preparation and purveyors committed to providingthe best this unique place has to offer.

It is in celebration of the culinary arts in all their multifacetedforms that the Okanagan Institute and Okanagan College hostCulinaria events and publish this journal.

“Culinaria is a fantastic collaboration between the OkanaganInstitute, Okanagan College and the many exceptional people work-ing in the intensely creative field of the culinary arts,” says RobertMacDonald, director of the Okanagan Institute and Publisher inResidence at Okanagan College. “We hope this event and publica-tion will give both newcomers and people who have lived here fora long time an opportunity to celebrate the depth and quality ofthe food and culture of this truly amazing region, unique in theworld.”

The artisanal producers who have contributed food and bev-erages to this culinary exploration include some of the most dedi-cated and talented in the Valley. This publication provides infor-mation on them and their products – we encourage you to make ahabit of supporting them.

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JAMIE MAW

Lip ServiceNOTES ON A SUSTAINABLE FOOD & WINE

CULTURE IN THE OKANAGAN

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Last January, at the Cabana Bar & Grille in Kelowna, I was eating a$10 pizza that was delicious, and that would go on to win a contestfor the ‘Best Pie in Town’. Next to me, a family of five was diningon more pizzas, and well-crafted pastas, also for $10, except thatthe children in the party ate for free. The math was easy, maybe tooeasy: this teetotalling family of five was going to dine very well, inpretty surroundings, for $20. Oh yes, plus a three-dollar tip for theirhardworking server. ‘Don’t do this at home,’ I reminded myself,‘because you can’t.’

Being Scottish, it was almost enough for me to start a new fam-ily. It wasn’t lost on me that this food had been prepared by one ofthe most talented chefs in the province, a fellow who has starred onseveral television shows and who is widely respected by his peers.Chef Ned Bell is a stand-up guy, but it also wasn’t lost on me thatthose talents – found standing in front of a pizza oven – were se-verely under-utilized on that cold night.

Those are the chilly economics of running a restaurant in theOkanagan: Survive the winter and shoulder seasons, flourish dur-ing the three months of summer, and pray that the weather godsshine down on your patio every day and night. In short: Make paywhile the sun shines.

Just two months later, the apple orchardists of the Okanaganstaged a protest to draw attention to their plight. They sold applesfor 12 cents a pound, which is barely half of their production costs,even though their produce sells for $1.29 a pound in grocery stores.They sold all 5,000 pounds in two hours but brought a new con-sumer-based advocacy to their challenge. I encourage you to addyour voice by joining their website.

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Example three: At Enderby’s North Okanagan Game Meats,which grows outstanding European pigs and fallow deer and sup-plies to many local restaurants, rancher Richard Yntema was forcedto spend $400,000 to upgrade his production facility to the newprovincial standards imposed in 2008. He has been able – so far –to weather the financial burden, but needless to say, many smalloperators didn’t survive, and we are the poorer for it.

From these three examples (and there are many more), we canbegin to understand the economic adversity that the food serviceindustries face in the Okanagan. And importantly we can come tounderstand both meanings of sustainability. There is the one thatpoliticians and green-washers pay lip service to, whether referenc-ing property development versus agriculture protectionism, butthere is also the one that we, as consumers, must pay more than lipservice to: the economic sustainability of the people who grow andcook for us. It’s a squeeze play.

And to do that, we need to develop a code that serves us well.In the housing industry, in which I am also involved, that meansliving in smaller and more cost-efficient spaces that don’t hurt wherewe live. In food, it means the same: The real meaning ofsustainability is that we should pay a little more to eat a little less,but of higher quality and local origin. That allows for our localfarmers and ranchers to sustain themselves. By the way, dinner willtaste better too.

What action can we take? In the winter, buying local ingredi-ents can be challenging, but in the growing season, do buy fromlocal farms and roadside stands. And do ask the produce managerat your local grocery chain to ensure that he is carrying local pro-duce. If he offers up a bureaucratic response, take your trade else-where, and tell your friends.

I also invite you to patronize those restaurants that display anenthusiastic interest in supporting local producers, and that ad-here to both organic and the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wisestandards, and that serve fewer calories of higher quality.

Our new online magazine is one response to our frustration infinding current, accurate information in locating those restaurants.Go Go Magazine will soon provide a list, divided geographically,

culinaria | may 2010

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that recommends restaurants that have adopted this code. Theymay range from fine dining, such as Mission Hill’s Terrace with adeterminedly local menu, to something year round such Raudz Re-gional Table, which works with more than 140 local suppliers, orThe Cactus Club, where chef Rob Feenie was an early partner withOcean Wise.

Not incidentally, I believe that it’s no coincidence that our verybest Okanagan restaurants are those that buy locally and organi-cally, simply because the chefs are in the fields and pastures withthe growers, and the growers are in the kitchens with the chefs andthat this collaboration brings out the best in each other.

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It’s no secret that the wine business in the Okanagan is maturingquickly. If it were a human, I’d say that it has just shed its pimplyadolescence.

Wine tourism is growing in lockstep, with local companies suchas Okanagan Wine Country Tours reporting record bookings forthis season. If all is not completely well in the industry (there arealso record numbers of vineyards and wineries for sale, and a sur-plus of wine, especially dessert wines), wine tourists are flocking todrink in our best, often in a spectacular setting such as Quails’ Gate’stasting room with its expansive view of the lake, or Burrowing Owl,where the desert panorama speaks to where the big reds are grown.

The history of Okanagan Valley agriculture is written in water,from the open sluices of the East Kelowna Bench at the turn of thelast century, to the installation of the massive aqueduct fromOkanagan Falls to Oliver after the first war (did you know thatOliver at the time became known as ‘The Melon Capital ofCanada’?), to modern irrigation practices today.

Drip irrigation has the combined benefit of dramatically less-ening water consumption – by half – while equally dramaticallydecreasing the risk of botrytis fungus common to vineyards withoverhead spray. One recent conversion example is the large-scaledrip installation undertaken by Mission Hill at their Paradise Ranchvineyards.

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I’d also like to single out Mission Hill for one other importantsustainable initiative. Mission Hill is now recycling over 700 cubicmetres (imagine a parade of 100 dump trucks) of vineyard clip-pings, damaged grapes, marc and other waste right back into theirvineyards. This mulched compost also delivers a double benefit: itis both organic fertilizer and retains moisture in the rows.

Should we adopt a code for drinking locally too? Well, of course,many of us already have, if not exclusively (those Argentine malbecsremain a tempting steal), especially when we’re entertaining visi-tors and stunning them with a bottle of Quatrain or Note Benewhile playing the modesty card.

But yes, there are many reasons to drink locally know, and aswe say in our family, when we get hungry we switch to red. Or toparaphrase Julia Child, ‘Here’s to moderation and lots of it.’

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Jamie Maw was the Food & Travel Editor of Vancouver magazine for 14years, and a frequent contributor to The Globe and Mail, Western Liv-ing, Bon Appétit, CKNW, the CBC and Shaw TV, and many places else-where in print and other media. He was recently a judge on FOX-TV’sHell’s Kitchen with Gordon Ramsay. He has won National Magazineand Western Magazine awards on numerous occasions. Jamie was in-ducted into the BC Restaurant Hall of Fame last year, and in 2008, hewas awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award in the Culinary Arts byVancouver magazine. He was the founding editor of The Eating & Drink-ing Guide to British Columbia and the co-founder of The Chefs’ TableSociety of BC, and is co-editor of the bestselling cookbooks, VancouverCooks and Vancouver Cooks 2. Jamie divides his time between his homesin Vancouver and Kelowna, where he contributes his weekly culinarynews magazine ‘Eat My Words’ on AM 1150. He launched Go Go Maga-zine, an Okanagan lifestyle magazine, in April, 2010.


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KARIN WILSON

The Taste of Moneywy

“Our merchants and master-manufacturers complain much of thebad effects of high wages in raising the price, and thereby lesseningthe sale of their goods both at home and abroad. They say nothing

concerning the bad effects of high profits.”– Adam Smith, The Wealth of Nations

A few years ago I spent a luscious 10 days drinking in the FrenchRiviera, tasting and treating myself to whatever delicacies I couldfind.

The open air market swelled with so much bounty that it washard choose. I was often overwhelmed and yet at the same timeastounded at the simplicity of what was on hand – colourful bas-kets of fresh strawberries, mounds of dried red peppers, youngzucchinis plucked especially for their precious delicate flowers wait-ing to be eaten.

The purveyors who had taken what the earth offered and el-evated it even further were even more fascinating. Here my eye wasdrawn to the row upon row of shallow containers filled to the brimwith more than a dozen styles of seasoned green, black, small andlarge olives, the cheese display offering no less than 200 types ofcheese, coloured small cloth bags filled to the brim with dried Herbde Provence, and unassuming jars of white crystals which I laterlearned were filled with fleur de sel – hand harvested sea salt.

It didn’t matter what I ate during that holiday – it was all sim-ple, and all good. I found myself slowing down to savour whatdanced on my taste buds. I ate less, and enjoyed more – withoutthe aid of that popular French Women Don’t Get Fat cookbook.

On my return, I tossed out the margarine container and re-placed it with butter. I got rid of the non-fat tasteless yoghurt andswitched to organic where the flavour of the milk and the berriescomes through.

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People will say to me: isn’t it expensive to eat like that? Isn’t itfattening? What are you doing?

And all I have to say is: look at the general North Americanpopulation. We are swimming in obesity. Thanks to what I thinkof now as the real taste of money, we have been brainwashed intobelieving food is meant to fill our stomachs and little more. Payless and we get more – of what? Certainly not quality or flavour.What we get is quantity. And that’s just what the industrializationof food is designed to do.

The taste of money is this: cardboard cereals, Wonder breadthat reverts back to its original form in our mouths, and so muchsalt and sugar our taste buds have forgotten what their job is – todistinguish what is good for us, and what isn’t – to remind us ofmoderation.

The taste of money is also found in the developers who haveconvinced government that economic growth and development isin “the public’s interests” above and beyond agricultural land. Suchwas the 1998 Six Mile Ranch debacle.

That year, the provincial government approved the removal ofmore than 300-acres out of the Agricultural Land Reserve in fa-vour of a massive development. The provincial government wentover the heads of the Commission of the day to approve the deal,arguing that it was in the “public interest” and arguably it wouldgenerate more public economic wealth.

Twelve years later and some might argue we’re still waiting forthat wealth. Check out Pagebrook’s Tobiano website and you cansee they’re still trying to build and sell the property, along with thatever-ubiquitous golf course on former agricultural land.

People argue – but what about the farmers? They can’t make ago of it. What choice to do they have but to sell.

In recent weeks we’ve watched as apple growers raise the alarmabout their cost of production. They send their fruit out to themarket, and get pennies in return. So where is the money going?It’s going to distribution, and sometimes it’s going to manufactur-ing plants that suck all the juice out of what they have to offer andgive the public pap in return.


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Ultimately we, the public, has been sold a bill of goods. We’vebeen bewitched into believing that good food is expensive and onlyfor the rich. That it’s about snob-appeal, rather than about truetaste. Scarffing down that MacDonald’s hamburger becomes a wayof being virtuous. I’m thrifty, or I’m “everyman” and don’t need towaste my money on such unimportant things as food.

But the truth is, like everything, there is a price to be paid.So where does it end? More importantly, where can we start?Canadians are notorious for giving away our resources, our

bounty. We think nothing of shipping off raw logs, mining ore with-out creating our own manufacturing plants, trucking out our wa-ter even. If we want our food to be more than an apple a day, weneed to put more of ourselves into what we produce.

That means farmers working with chefs and other experts toget the most out of the good things we put so much time and en-ergy into. It also means lobbying government not so much for sub-sidies, but more access to distribution and breaking down of tradeand other barriers.

Laws that limit grower’s ability to create the most from ourfood limit the public experience.

Following the taste of money has never brought wealth to pro-ducers. It’s brought wealth to the owners of industry, and produc-ers receive the trickle down.

Most of all, growers need to trust that their taste counts – thatthey don’t just simply put seeds in the ground or plop a few cattleonto the range. They care, and it’s the care – that invisible ingredi-ent – that makes the difference in the result.

So far, no one has been able to bottle “care” in mass quantities.It always comes in limited supply. That’s what ensures diversity onthe planet.

I think we should develop less of a taste for money, and moreof a taste for heaven. It’s sweeter there, and it has an infinite capac-ity to sustain us.

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JUDIE BARTA

TheBest ofBothWorldsBRINGING MEAD TO THE 21ST CENTURY

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I’ve been told many times that I enjoy the path less travelled, andmaybe that’s because I never really set out on a path – rather I chooseto follow whatever life presents to me.

That’s what happened nearly 20 years ago when my nose wokeup during a wine tasting seminar I was taking as a young staff mem-ber at the Banff Springs Hotel. The wine rep explained to us thatthe scent we were inhaling was a particular grape variety.

In an instant I knew I had found my passion. I realized we don’tuse our noses like we can, and the fact that you can really smellsomething – smell where it came from, where it grew, the soil thatit was in was a eureka moment for me. It was truly poignant.

That all sounds so old hat now, but back then the Canadianwine industry was still in its infancy, and even though both myparents come from Europe, it never occurred to me (or apparentlymany other Canadians) that different types of grapes were used fordifferent purposes. We all knew the difference between a Macin-tosh apple and a Spartan, but a grape was a grape.

The call of the vine was on me now, so perhaps it wasn’t toosurprising that I followed my nose to the Okanagan Valley where Ilanded on the doors of Sumac Ridge winery where Harry McWatterswas starting to make noise about developing a world class wineindustry here in B.C. Back then only a handful of wineries existedand it was hard to see what would happen. VQA didn’t even existthen, but I was convinced this was my path so I stuck with wineand worked as a rep learning more about the industry.

What I didn’t expect (and now we’re back to that path less trav-elled) was that the seminal moment for me wouldn’t take place inthe cellar next to massive oak caskets, but in a friend’s kitchen.

He had what you might call “medieval roots”, and as a mem-ber of the Society for Creative Anachronisms, one of his goals in

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life was to keep old traditions alive. We brewed a batch of mead – ahoneywine – together and it was amazing, and it ages beautifully.

The nose has an ability to remember scents long after the fra-grance has gone, so that experience must have lived within me some-how waiting for an opportunity to be reawakened. That momentcame about a year and half ago when I accidentally bumped intoan old winemaker friend of mine – Alan Marks – in a local deli. Hewas working now as a wine consultant, and I was looking for somefresh ways to launch a new venture. But I also knew that there werenow 225 wineries out there. I needed to differentiate myself. Wetossed around a few ideas, and then the memory of mead came tome, and that was it. It was like it was calling to me from the past,the ancient past.

The road hasn’t been easy. Bent on being organic, I struggledto find B.C.-based honey but the nearest product came from Al-berta. That proved to be a problem and within a matter of weeksthe sweet scent of making honeywine was smelling somewhat sour.B.C. licensing regulations stipulate that wineries must use prod-ucts from within the province. On the verge of smelling sweet suc-cess, I was shut down.

I guess I can credit my German and Czech roots, because Ididn’t let that stop me. I learned there was one way to keep movingforward – go commercial. It comes with a price, but I’m hoping it’sworth it.

Two weeks ago Meadow Vista Honey Wines made it ontoshelves in 12 B.C. stores.

If there was one thing I could hope for this valley, for the agri-culture industry as a whole, it would be to move our regulationsout of the dark ages and into the light. People want products thatare sustainable, and life-affirming. For too long our liquor lawshave been controlling us. There is more that needs to be done tomove this province away from prohibition era thinking, into anindustry that allows producers of all kinds to reach the people.

People like Harry McWatters had that vision 20-years ago, butnow it’s up to this newer generation to take things even further.

If agriculture is to thrive in this world economy, we need tohave the means to create new products from what we grow. This


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means allowing room for new ways of thinking, rather than cling-ing to the old.

There is a lot to be said for the past. I know because my busi-ness is founded on that tradition. But even so, I’m using moderntechnology and modern winemaking skills to lift mead into the 21st

century. There is a modern palate, and we need modern policy togo along with it.

And if this creates some buzz, I’m okay with that.

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Judie Barta is a pioneering entrepreneur with 18 years of experience inbusiness development specializing in the wellness and wine industries.Over the last two decades, Judith has built and sold several service busi-nesses although her love of food, wine and her dream of purchasingland in the Okanagan Valley to establish an estate winery has never beentoo far from her heart. It was with this in mind that she has launchedMeadow Vista Honey Wines – a premier certified organic honey wineryproducing Canada’s first organic sparkling honey wine! The perfect fitfor Judie, who’s love for organic food, wine, supporting local farming

and passion for honey bees is apparent to everyone she meets.


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CULINARIA

RefreshingthePalateA CELEBRATION OF THE CULINARY ARTS

OKANAGAN COLLEGE, THURSDAY 13 MAY 2010

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If there is one thing that Chef Geoffrey Couper believes it’s this:food is better when prepared by someone who understands notonly the kitchen, but more importantly, the farm. For Couper, andfellow Okanagan College Chef instructor Perry Bentley, magic hap-pens when chefs sit down with farmers to create food experiencesthat not only celebrate, but truly acknowledge the nurturing craftof farming. That's exactly what they're doing along with the stu-dents at Okanagan College's Culinary Arts program.

Spring Culinaria: Refreshing the Palate is seasoned in a decid-edly new fashion Okanagan foodies will appreciate. For the firsttime, our diverse micro-regions are highlighted with special sta-tions set up reflecting the the foods and culinary delights featuringthe Similkameen, South Okanagan, Naramata Bench, CentralOkanagan and North Okanagan regions.

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Culinaria supports the Writing and Publishing programs ofOkanagan College including Ryga: A Journal of Provocations and

the publishing work of the Okanagan Institute.

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We thank those who joined us for the meal and theentertainment portion of our culinary celebration.

We encourage you to continue to support all the wonderful localindependent artisanal producers whose products we showcase.

And we hope to see you at the next Culinaria.

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THE PRODUCERS

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NORTH OKANAGAN

North Okanagan Game Meats y EnderbyNorth Okanagan Game Meats started out life in the early 1990s asa deer farm and has since expanded into raising wild boar and lamb,along with the venison. Wildly prized by chefs up and down thevalley, their hormone-free naturally raised meats has graced theplates at the best wineries, high-end lodges and ski hills in B.C. andelsewhere. With advance notice, the public can purchase specialcuts. contact: 250.838.7980, [email protected].

Fieldstone Granary y ArmstrongThis granary opened two years ago with the aim of providing localquality whole grain. Ninety percent of their product list comes di-rectly from farmers in the Valley. Grains include spelt, buckwheat,oats, barley, golden flax, and hard red spring wheat. They also sellflour mills and hand flakers so you can make your own muesli!contact: 250.546.4558, www.fieldstonegranary.ca.

Green Croft Gardens y GrindrodA certified organic farm since 1988, Green Croft Gardens is lo-cated on 20 fertile acres bordering the Shuswap River. Most of theirproduce is sold at local farmers markets from Kelowna to Enderby.They also cater to wineries and restaurants committed to a local,seasonal menu. contact: Farm gate sales by appointment.250.838.6581, www.greencroftgardens.com.

Crannóg Ales y SorrentoCrannóg Ales is Canada’s only Certified Organic farmhousemicrobrewery, one of only a handful of such breweries in the world.Crannóg brews unfiltered, unpasteurized ales using only organicingredients, some of which come right from their own farm. Alltheir ales reflect the Irish tradition of brewing full-flavoured, com-plex ales. contact: 250.675.6847, www.crannogales.com.

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Okanagan Spirits y VernonFrank Deiter started out in 2004 inspired by the local fruits of thisregion crafting exquisite liqueurs, grappa, Eauex de Vie, and speci-alities such as absinthe-taboo and aquavitis-aquavit. This year thedistillery received official designation as a master class distillery andtook five gold and six silvers at the World Spirit Competition inAustria. contact: 250.549.3120, www.okanaganspirits.com.

Vale Farms Grassroots y LumbyCharlotte and Michael Ruechel emigrated here from Germany in1975 and opened their farm. By 2000, the farm was Certified Or-ganic and today their beef and lamb meats can be found in variousstores throughout the valley, and at farmers markets. contact: toll-free 1.866.567.2300, [email protected].

Duggan FarmsChefs from both Central and North Okanagan like to lay claim tothis beautiful farm based in Winfield. Their produce has gracedthe table at RauDZ and tickled the tastebuds all over for their out-standing asparagus (best in show, so we’ve heard). contact:250.766.2628

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CENTRAL OKANAGAN

Stoney Paradise Farm y KelownaGrower Milan Djordjevich, AKA the Tomato Man, has developedquite a name in Vancouver chef circles for his heirloom and hy-brids, but the real secret is that his product is based in Kelowna.His tomatoes are celebrated for their exceptional sun-kissed fla-vour. Certified organic. contact: 250.764.8828.

Meadow Vista Honey Wines y West KelownaThe first premier organic honey winery in the Okanagan offers upa Canadian first – sparkling organic honey wine (proudly made ala method traditionelle, where the secondary fermentation takes


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place in the bottle. The winery’s Cloud Horse took Gold at the 2010Mazer Cup International Commercial and Home Mead Competi-tion in Boulder Colorado. Not bad for a newcomer! contact:250.769.2337, www.meadowvista.ca.

Little Straw Vineyards y West KelownaIn 1996, the three Slamka brothers took on the challenge of estab-lishing their own winery. They blended traditional growing tech-niques with modern wine making practices, and mature vines. Theresult is an exceptional artisanal winery whose products graceshelves in the Lower Mainland, Vancouver Island and throughoutthe Okanagan. contact: 250.769.0404. www.littlestraw.bc.ca

Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan y KelownaExperts in crafting European-style goat cheese, the Barmor propri-etors make their cheese from 100% goat’s milk produced on theirown farm, as well as milk bought from an organic goat farmer inGrand Forks. contact: 250.870.3117, www.carmelisgoatcheese.com

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SOUTH OKANAGAN

Forbes Family Farm y OliverA certified organic 13-acre home farm of fruit, vegetables, and free-range animals (chickens, turkeys, pigs) located just north of Oliver.Operating since 1974 and organically since 1995, brothers Gord andSteve have kept step with consumers who are curious about theirfood. A small portion of the farm is a wetland that the Forbes fam-ily has preserved with The Land Conservancy of BC and the townof Oliver. contact: 250.498.4264, [email protected]

Fester’s Peppers y OliverThere was a time when the pepper had one form only – green. Butthese days, people go potty for peppers – whether hot or mild, usedin salads or sprinkled sparingly to kick things up a notch (or five.)contact: [email protected]

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Sezmu Meats y OliverStick to the best, and that means the beautiful naturally marbledAngus cattle that enjoy a diet of grass.Once they reach a desirablesize they are fed daily a proprietary blend of grains with the humanequivalent of a glass of red BC wine until production. The beef isthen dry-aged for 28 days resulting in a very distinct beef flavour,improved colour and longer shelf life than traditional beef. A trueAAA grade delicacy. contact: 250.681.0580, www.sezmumeats.com.

Nk’Mip Cellars y OsoyoosThe Osoyoos Indian Band has a long history of growing grapesthanks in part to the ownership of 340 acres at the NK’Mip Vine-yard LP, which was first planted in 1968. Award-winning winemakersRandy Picton and Justin Hall (who studied at Okanagan College),have crafted celebrated chardonnays, succulent syrahs and premiumpinot noirs. contact: 250.495.2985, www.nkmipcellars.com.

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NARAMATA BENCH

Poplar Grove CheeseFrom creamy camembert to a blue cheese with real bite (hence thename Tiger Blue), Poplar Grove has established itself as anOkanagan delicacy found in artisanal food markets throughout theprovince and even into Toronto where it melted the heart of Globe& Mail food writer Sue Riedl. contact: 250.492.4575,www.poplargrove.ca

Wineland DressingsWineland Dressings was founded in 2000 by Peter & ValenciaYoung. Peter is the executive chef at Hillside Estate Winery andclientele were continually pestering him for his delicious salad dress-ings. Roast Garlic Balsamic Vinaigrette was soon followed up by asecond masterpiece – Raspberry and Black Pepper Vinaigrette.Available at listed speciality stores throughout the valley. contact:www.wineland.ca.


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The Fruit GuyMichael Welch is known for his dried fruit created from naturallygrown produce harvested from orchards on this bucolic bench. Thelandscape offers a perfect southwest exposure with mineral richclay loam soil. The result is complex fruit that is a perfect additionto meals – whether in baking or with a favourite breakfast concoc-tion. contact: 250.490.0174, www.driedfruitguy.com.

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SIMILKAMEEN

Harkers Organics y CawstonA true pioneering family that has held onto its roots, the Harkerfamily settled in the Similkameen in 1888 and has now farmed itsland for five generations. Harker’s Organics grows a large varietyof tree fruits, ground crops and specialty items like Cape GooseBerries. They’ve established themselves as suppliers for Capers/Wholefoods, Urban Harvest, Discovery and Ellisons Market. con-tact: 250.499.2751, www.harkersorganics.com.

Orchard Blossom Honey y KeremeosIn operation since 1981, this family farm operates 300 colonies ofhoney bees. The company name comes from their practice of plac-ing beehives in the local orchards to assist in pollination of the fruittrees, and later moving them to their homes – the hay meadowsand desert-like areas of the Similkameen Valley and the Peace Riverarea of Northern British Columbia. contact: 250.499.2821,www.orchardblossom.ca

Rustic Roots Winery - CawstonA literal outgrowth of Harker’s Farm, Rustic Roots is an illustra-tion of the creativity and ingenuity required to run a successfulfarm in the 21st century. Their wine pays homage to sustainabilityby incorporating the product of 15 organic growers. contact:250.499.2754, www.rusticrootswinery.com.


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THE CHEFS

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Geoffrey Couperis an instructor in the Culinary Arts Program at Okanagan College.He’s also the founder of the CorkedCook Food & Wine Company,which is dedicated to exposing the food and wines of British Co-lumbia to a wider audience. Geoffrey came to the Okanagan sevenyears ago to work with Mission Hill on their food and beverageprogram and quickly established a reputation as a life-long chefand supporter of local products and producers. President of theOkanagan Chefs Association, Geoffrey believes there are tremen-dous unrealized opportunities in the value-added segment of theagriculture industry.

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Perry Bentleygrew up on a small rural acreage in southern England where he wassurrounded by fresh produce, goats to milk, and eggs to collect.Initially he studied hospitality but then switched to cookery andthe pastry arts. Over the years he’s worked at large London hotels,studied the culinary traditions while living in France and Australia,Italy and Argentina. Bentley, who holds the Certified Chef Cuisinedesignation (the highest level of accreditation for cooks in Canada),recently received the president’s award from the Okanagan Chefs’Association.

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We extend a special thanks to the students from the Culinary Arts and Hospitality programs atOkanagan College who have worked together with

the chefs to create a fabulous meal.

You are our future, and we are gratefulyou put your heart into what you do.

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THE RECIPES

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From the Similkameen

Organic Onion & Apple Cider Soup~

Spring Herb Cream

Yield: makes 6 servings

Ingredients• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 2 tablespoons olive oil• 6 large onions (about 3 pounds) peeled, halved, thinly sliced

• 5 cups vegetable stock• 2 cups natural apple cider

• 12 large thyme sprigs

• cup whipping cream – whipped to soft peaks

• 1 tablespoon each snipped chives,chopped fresh thyme and parsley

Preparation

Melt butter with oil in large pot over medium heat. Add onions;sauté until very soft but without colour, about 25-30 minutes.Add vegetable stock, cider, and thyme sprigs. Bring to boil.Reduce heat; season with salt and pepper. Slowly simmer soup,uncovered, 25 minutes. Discard thyme sprigs. (Soup can bemade 1 day ahead. Cool slightly. Chill uncovered until cold,then cover and keep refrigerated. Re-warm over medium heatbefore continuing.)

Lightly whip cream to soft peaks, season with salt and pepper andfold in chopped herbs.

Divide among 6 warm soup bowls, garnish with spring herb cream,and serve.

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From the Naramata Bench

Crostini of Wineland Preserved Fruits~

Crumbled Poplar Grove Tiger Blue


Ingredients• 12 thin slices baguette• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• cup mixed dried fruits - diced [ apples, apricots, cherries etc. ]• 1 cup boiling water

• cup Okanagan Wineland Dressing Peach Chutney• cup Poplar Grove Tiger Blue Cheese - crumbled

• 1 tablespoon snipped chives

Preparation

To make the crostini, brush the sliced baguette with the olive oiland bake in a 350 degree oven until crisp and golden, approxi-mately 7 minutes. Cool.

Pour the boiling water over the diced dried fruit and allow to sof-ten for 5 minutes. Drain well. Toss the fruit with the peachchutney and then divide among the crostini. Place a teaspoonof the crumbled blue cheese on top of the fruit and garnishwith the snipped chives.

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From the North Okanagan

Duggan Farm Asparagus Salad~

Wild Boar Pancetta Verjus & ChiveVinaigrette


Ingredients• 1 large bunch cooked and chilled asparagus – cut into 1” pieces

• 18 slices wild boar pancetta – baked until crisp• 1 shallot – finely chopped

• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard• cup – verjus

• cup – extra virgin olive oil• 3 tablespoons finely cut chives

Preparation

Make the verjus vinaigrette by whisking together the shallot, Dijonmustard and verjus. Slowly beat in the olive oil. Season to tastewith salt and pepper.

Lightly toss the asparagus with 2 tablespoons of the chives and justenough of the vinaigrette to moisten. Lightly season. Reservethe remaining dressing for another salad.

Divide the asparagus among 6 chilled salad plates. Top with thecrisp pancetta, freshly ground black pepper and sprinkle withthe remaining chives.

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THE MUSICIANS

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Barb Samuel y Sista B and the BoyzRefreshing the Palate: Spring Culinaria is all about food - but per-haps more importantly it’s about what it really means to live andbreathe the essence of this valley. Giving voice to that song will bethe soulful sounds of Kelowna’s own Barb Samuel, along with herband Sista B and the Boyz.

“It’s a joy for me to perform for this event,” says Samuel, whohas charmed audiences around North America, including a trans-fixed crowd of 2500 when Deepak Chopra came to Kamloops in2008.

Samuel’s style is reminiscent of American artist Alicia Keys.Like Keys, Samuel came to music early in life – starting out withclassical. Her father was a cellist with the Edmonton SymphonyOrchestra and the San Francisco Philharmonic, so it was naturalthat Samuel picked up the flute and performed with the Edmon-ton Youth Orchestra.

But her mother loved Motown and R&B, and now that Samuelhas settled into her own voice, she’s like an angel on steroids - gen-tly soothing her audience when she flies acoustic, or soaring withthem as she takes to new heights, her rock-based band backing herevery step of the way.

Samuel will be treating the Culinaria audience to both her styles– acoustic light-jazz at the pre-dinner, followed by an after dinnerperformance that will make dancing irresistible.

“The intensity is there no matter what we’re playing. Peoplesay I’m dialled into 11 all the time,” she laughs. “I love doing thisbecause I get to feed off the audience and I’m simply moved toanswer.”

Samuel’s band started life as the house band for the Centre forSpiritual Living, where she continues to be the musical directorand staff minister. Five years ago, the group went public and havebeen regularly playing gigs ever since. Accompanying Samuel are“the Boyz”: Neal Klassen (lead guitar, piano and vocals), DavidKnapp (drummer, vocals), and Kevin Zacharias (bass).

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THE ORGANIZATIONS

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The Writing and Publishing Programsof Okanagan College

The Kalamalka Institute for Working WritersIn 2000 the Kalamalka Institute for Working Writers was formedas a publishing, teaching and research endeavour and as a largerumbrella context for supporting writers that included the opera-tion of Kalamalka Press, established in 1987 by the Kalamalka NewWriters Society. The Institute serves writers in the Okanagan byoffering a wide variety of courses in writing and researching, toenable writers to acquire professional self-sufficiency, a high levelof knowledge of commercial and literary genres and the skills re-quired to succeed in those markets.

Prospective students have access to a wide variety of special-ised courses in writing, and can package courses in distinct ways: aBachelor's Degree in Creative and Commercial Writing, a FACECertificate in Commercial Creative Writing, an Associate Degreein Creative and Commercial Writing, a FACE Electronic Publish-ing Certificate, and the opportunity to complete Master classes inspecialised genres. The combination of degree and certificate pro-grams allows flexibility so that it is possible to further an educationwhile working. All offerings are student-centered: they may be pack-aged in accordance with financial, professional and academic needs.The signature offerings are the Diploma in Writing and Publishing(English) and the Diploma in Media and Cultural Studies, and oth-ers are in the works.

The Kalamalka Campus of Okanagan College has set up theKalamalka Institute For Working Writers as its signature program,to bring both academic and non-academic courses in writing un-der one roof. KIWW also serves as the vehicle for touring writers’public performances, and a Digital Archive that focuses on writingand writers.

In 2003 the Kalamalka Institute, in association with Mackie LakeHouse Foundation, established a writing residency. Since then theWriter-In-Residence at the Mackie House have been Ron Ayling,

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Dennis Cooley, David Pitt-Brooke and Christine McPhee, RobertKroetsch, Dawne McCance and Gary Geddes. A number of impor-tant publications have issued from the residency.

KIWW is managed by a steering committee composed of fac-ulty, staff and administrators who represent a variety of areas ofOkanagan College.

In addition to the growing reputation of the writing programsoffered by the College, the publcations of Kalamalka Press havepositioned the program for taking a leadership position in literarypublishing in western Canada.

The Ryga InitiativeThe Ryga Initiative at Okanagan College, in association with theOkanagan Institute, consists of a number of existing and prospec-tive programs which honour the legacy of George Ryga (1931-87),author of Canada's best known English-language play, The Ecstasyof Rita Joe, first produced in 1967. He was one of Canada’s mostprolific authors – he maintained a taxing work program as a shortstory writer, novelist, radio and television dramatist, poet and filmscenarist, not to mention ventures into the world of ballet and op-era. In a period of 14 years while resident in the Okanagan he pro-duced 190 plays, two cantatas, five screenplays, two longplaying al-bums, three novels, and a book of poetry, and a considerable bodyof unpublished and unproduced work.

Ryga: A Journal of Provocations consists of a single or multipleworks by writers whose work the editor considers worthy of read-ers' attention. It is published as a 250-page book, on good qualityrecycled paper, with a full colour laminated cover, 4 times a year.One of Canada’s best-know writers, Robert Kroetsch, has stated:“Ryga: A Journal of Provocations is the necessary tug at the shoelacethat prepares one for the marathon. It is the sentinel of discovery.”

Each section of the Journal is individually designed in keepingwith the intentions of the writer and the nature of the material pre-sented. Some of the individual sections are also published aschapbooks, in saddlestitched paperback format.


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The Okanagan Institute

The Okanagan Institute is a group of creative professionals thathave gathered around the goal of providing events, publicationsand services of interest to enquiring minds in the Okanagan. Wepartner with individuals, organizations, institutions and businessesto achieve optimal creative and social impact.

Our mission is to ignite cultural transformation, catalyze col-laborative action, build networks and foster sustainable creativeenterprises. We provide innovative consultation, facilitation, pro-fessional development and creative services.

The Institute has conducted more than 140 public events sinceour weekly Express series got underway in July 2007, and we nowoffer regular programs in Penticton, Kelowna and Vernon. We havehosted many Okanagan luminaries, including former deputy sec-retary general of Amnesty International Derek Evans, artists LeeClaremont and Gary Pearson, BC Book Award nominee DonGayton, CBC Literary prize winner poet Harold Rhenisch, distin-guished editor and author Jim Taylor, poet laureate and professorJohn Lent, creative entrepreneur Nikos Theodosakis, animator andfilmmaker Jim Cliffe, community activist Don Elzer, dancer DavidLaHay, architect Jim Meiklejohn, culinary artist and writer HeidiNoble, broadcaster Marion Barschel and many others from a widerange of creative fields.

In addition, the Institute has published a number of importantbooks by Okanagan writers, and on topics of interest to Okanaganreaders. It has also presented special events which examine the im-portant role that the arts, ideas and technology play in the creativeeconomy of the Okanagan, and fostered proactive engagement be-tween the creative and other sectors in the community.

The Institute has reached out to a broad range of institutionsand organizations in the Okanagan in order to understand the needsof the creative community, and provide guidance on how collec-tive action will foster opportunities for creative individuals andorganizations in all disciplines.

RefreshingthePalate

acelebrationof theculinaryarts

may 2010

CULINARIA

THE OKANAGAN INSTITUTE IS A GROUP OF CREATIVE PROFESSIONALS THATHAS GATHERED AROUND THE GOAL OF PROVIDING EVENTS, PUBLICATIONSAND SERVICES OF INTEREST TO ENQUIRING MINDS IN THE OKANAGAN. WEPARTNER WITH INDIVIDUALS, ORGANIZATIONS, INSTITUTIONS ANDBUSINESSES TO ACHIEVE OPTIMAL CREATIVE AND SOCIAL IMPACT. OURMISSION IS TO IGNITE CULTURAL TRANSFORMATION, CATALYZECOLLABORATIVE ACTION, BUILD NETWORKS AND FOSTER SUSTAINABLECREATIVE ENTERPRISES. WE PROVIDE INNOVATIVE CONSULTATION,FACILITATION, PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT AND CREATIVE SERVICES.

W W W . O K A N A G A N I N S T I T U T E . C O M

BILL OF FARE

Refreshing the PalateSPRING CULINARIA

THURSDAY 13 MAY 2010

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NORTH OKANAGANappetizer

Duggan Farm Asparagus Salad with Wild Boar Pancetta Verjus-Chive Vinaigrette

North Okanagan Game Meatsmain

North Okanagan Game Meats Venison Loin with Sage and Preserved Sour Cherries

dessertOkanagan Spirits Canados Baba ~ Canados syrup

beveragesCrannóg Ales y Okanagan Spirits

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CENTRAL OKANAGANappetizer

Stoney Paradise Arugula, Preserved Tomatoes & Leeks with Carmelis Goat Feta

mainSesame Crusted Vale Farm Rack of Lamb

Hoisin Glazedessert

Grape and Quince Crème BruleRhubarb Compote

Stoney Paradisebeverages

Little Straw Vineyards y Meadow Vista Honey Wines

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SOUTH OKANAGANappetizer

Composed Salad of Heritage Beans & Micro Greens Smoked Vegetable Vinaigrette

Forbes Farms

mainFester’s Peppers Rubbed Sezmu Beef Flank Steak

Red Onion Marmaladedessert

Forbes Farm Nectarine Sorbetbeverages

Nk’Mip Cellars

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NARAMATA BENCHappetizer

Crostini of Preserved Fruits with Crumbled Tiger BlueWineland Dressings, Poplar Grove

mainPoplar Grove Harvest Moon & Grilled Vegetable Napoleon

Basil Aioli and Micro Greensdessert

Baked Okanagan Double Cream CamembertPoplar Grove

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SIMILKAMEENappetizer

Organic Onion & Apple Cider Soup ~ Spring Herb CreamHarker’s Organics, Rustic Roots Winery

mainBraised Beef Short Ribs with Yellow Onions & Sugar Pea Shoots

Harker’s Organicsdessert

Honey & Chocolate Terrine Similkameen Wildflower Honey Ice Cream

Orchard Blossom Honeybeverages

Rustic Roots Winery

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Fieldstone Granary Assorted Breads

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Additional beverages reflecting the regionavailable for purchase at the bar.

Documents

Culinaria01