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THE SUN SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 13 1903

PARIS MODEL GOWNS

Schemes of Winter Dress Now-on Trial

DOUBT ABOUT STREET SKIRTS

Heavy Stuffs Not Adapted to thePrevailing Modes

ioliiiroiiiUe Suggested to Make liflopuylbHlni4 ninl Wiiol Avail

olilr Vnrlcl and Read of Ihr n-

TrlmiiiliiK Tito Hiiro Iart KKJI-Pclfll sijllsli V Mulllnllrlty or Frillmill lliiiinccn nn tin Until or nnn-

Hiiyors merchants aced dressmakers haveno fur boon liu persons most inlfrrstodHUtiniiii fashions hilt the women who nro-Iti thn city are beginning I grow onthu-hinstli over ihirfoiiH unil crowds of otherwomen tar pouring into town from theresorts nil with minds Intent upon theplanning of coolweuthor outfits

TV most InsliioMibli people will notdrift cityward until Xovomlior lint ufli r

all they manly adopt established modes

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and Imve little to do with creating thornTho French dressmakers nod Parisianwomen are ho fountain head of fashion andeven in Paris September i but a season ofexperiment

Many a mode that has already beenlaunched autocrats high in dressmakingmules will not be able to ride the waves offeminine favor and will Rink out of sightbefore the winters styles nro fairly settledTho Parisian dressmakers proposo and thewomen who wear the frocks dispose andthe earliest models merely indicate whattho makers would like to have acceptednot what will be accepted

However the chance are that a majorityof the ideas for which the famous firmsvouch will obtain favor and the neasonsfrocks are very likely to follow the generallines Indicated in tho early models Justhow Americans will receive these models

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Is always a puzzling question in which theroach makers aro deeply interested

It was one of tho great men of the Parisfashion world who said frankly that Ameri-can ladies and French demimondaineswore the most profitable patrons of theParisian dressmaking establishments andwhile the association is somewhat startlingit was meant In compliment to our country-women for the Parisian dernimondainoIs the most perfectly gowned woman in theworld

Since American patronage is essentialto French dressmakers prosperity adecided effort is made to satisfy Americantaste and the arbiters of the modeslong ago dispovered that Americans couldnot bo bullied into adopting an extremefashion unless by chance the idea happenedto appeal to thorn Modes havo been suc-cessful In Paris which absolutely could notfind a hold horn despite all efforts to makethem popular and it is an acknowledgedfact in tho Parisian ateliers thot French

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ktylir rnilsl ordinarily l mutinied to unitAuirieiii ill Nit Hint tliMAinorloaii womanwho in tin 1urlnianV only riiil rival In tinart of diiBuig tn r own i nlioiit-ilollios mill iisUtM upon following Iliuwi-niOoHM n iiiindnililn extent

llciid tin1 foreign fu liinti joiiriiiilr nndnote Ii lofnroicett to ilm Ariuri-BiUi InoiitjV Aiiierliin coil7ilie Ilm-AiiiTciin wilkiin Ac Cio Into a

dt la millinery h p inil citr-Uudiiniu cu iiniil upon tin uiliiiiulioiw of

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hat linen to American taste Talk withany of the Place VmdAnie dressmakersalnjut the stubboniiiesH of Americanpatrons Von will find the some

everywhere IA tulle tmrriraineto Paris fur her fashions and alters

them her own MowAll of which if merely by way if empha-

sizing tint fuel that ninny of the mod onview at the Fashion Show and in tin estab-lishments of various Importer will never1m exactly duplicated for wear by well

ilrocml American women yet Americantaste ho been considered in collectionand a large pro ortlim of the Ideas illus-

trated will lie hero without changeTho Parisian has accepted nil 1STO details

without protont but tin straight skirtfull from the wnistbnml till straight ruflleHtime skirt pelerinethe balloon sloovis and I hi high girdle

have miiile slowly here Fven now

then is question as to the extent to whichthe full skirt anil the horizontal trimming-will bo accepted fur winter wear Orlyaslender lull wonau wears them supremelywell urd for lln beicflt of the short andfat liire will doubtless bo com-promise

For the drowsy gown in very soft arterialth full straight skirt IIIIM unquestionablybeen adopted hero by the bestdrewrd-womenbut thnskirt yoke which has almostdifnpprared in Paris still holds

here mid gowns mitdo with

skirts full from t tin hand a re Mill in ilm mirthough Burning favor A narrow

plain parol or Hat plait down skirt front

mattes concession to the straighttrotfigure and a number of the best

attain this same result by using a trail

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down the middle of the front A few skirtsfulled all around are shown but they areexceptions

Just what will bo done with street skirtsremains to bo seen The popular zibullneaand other wool goods duo surprisinglylight in weight and soft in texture buteven so they are awkward when handledwith niuoli fulnws For tho walking frockand mannish tailor suit tilt flaring plainskirt of many gores will doubtless solve

problem on this side tho water andwhen plaited skirts are the plaitswill be kept Hat down to the knees

In Paris some zibulinea and cloths arebeing made with the very full skirts butthere are various compromise modelsTho double triple or manyflounced skirtpromises to hold its prestige but in theheavy stuffs the flounces aro very closelyfitted each flaring just enough to followthe sweep of tho cleverlycut foundation

I The deepshaped flounce so long a favorlie Is not now considered chile yet fa as

tillused

much In evidence ns over only masquerad-ing an n pnrt of lire skirt That is a

meaty form limn lowerplot of a fitted skirt lot It must bo sotrimmed tint it will appear to bo nn Integralpart of the skirt sweep rather them a sep-arate flounce

flroups of nuns plaits at the bottom ntthe place whore the flounco Joins tire bodyof tho skirt anti again at some distanceabove will accomplish thn desired resultread any horizontal linn trimming may botried In tie sumo way

Soutncho braid Is to bn much used uponstreet suits and it makes an excellenthorizontal trimming for tho uliiipod skirtIt is muilo In tho popular silk fibre and Inall modish shades and a good off vl is

or silk contrasting in color with tho frockmaterial instead of applying it diiwlly ontho frock

lire brnld should on I he upperedge lint left fico at tin lovvor idg sothat Intern Is a cluinco fur a glint of titsunder color to show Hornet iuicx Insteadif liking ono row ot souliiclio in thin

fashion rows of naironor vldtli-nr1 upon Ilm luind of lirighlcolorod-tlotli or nllU a lialrliiii nt lln color icing

On rt fr xk of murk bluo wrgo saws ofblack Foiiluclic n t upon a laud of oruriKor bright cud cloth uiu cffccllic yet LUll

shnpncl

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sweep-ing turn mca

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bright color shows so little that it i In noway conspicuous

Tho nsw and passementeries arelegion and limid Is combined with every-thing from fur to late Bias bands ofplaid silk with Iwtidn of braidtime two conmvlod by ingot stitching are anovelty amid bails of role fagotisi to braidIn the saino fashion are another develop-ment of tin cone Idea Fine gimpnoutline the design in heavy laces amid edgeband trimmings of null imaginable sorts

Wonderful rondo by manykiln of silk braid in combination cordsperuisntc frog mewls fringes nroIn profusion Much is done with cutout

too tit trimmingMmlolni work cloth buttonholed in color

and plain cloth cut out designs are Inhigh favor nnd hands of cut out clothapplied on cloth of contrasting colorare onVrcd intho shopsor may lip fashionedexpressly for tho Individual eostumo

Cloth lace mode of cut out designs in

braids

loin

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aileron thr g

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cloth woven together with loco stitches-in heavy silks or wools is another clothtrimming of which the French designersseen to be particularly fund U entersinto the malting of ninny of the cloth modelfrocks and is much used in trimming thocoats of lung haired zlhellne plush or furTins cloth lace idea is also introduced intosome of the cloth patterns

Chenille is extensively used in tasselsfringe embroidery and In combinationwith other materials in handsome passementeries Embroideries in shaded chenille

robe

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upon cloth nrH often very beautiful hurtnovelty in embroidery Is

padded wool embroidery which ornamentssome of the smartest cloth model frocksand coats

Wool embroidery on silk or chiffon is

chiefIre the hctvy

shown and garnitures of wool embroiderywith fringe or pendants in wool and silk

ruin striking These garnitures arefrequently carriiil out in a mixture ofmany blending rotors and the fancy forvariegated or multicolored effects findsexpression in it hoot of ways six or sevencolors yonietiinta ciitcring into the colorscheme of one costume

Prominent mining the novel drossis a Persian lamb trimming which U-

madu of black silk fibre and is a very goodimitation It is used in hard trimmingsIn medallions sot III with heavy lace orbraiding anti is a part of souse of the hand-somest passementeries

The fibre laces otTer another field for thesuccessful silk fibre and these laces inCluny patterns arc Inking tilt place cf tileuncut thread Cliny so popular during thesummer The silk fibre laces take allcolors well and ore charming in tho delicatetints colored to mulch light hiiitl frockmaterial

One of the most successful gowns nmongthe French models nt the Fashion Show War

on re-

new

decorat-ions

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in piiio mauve niiDir i mpi with ulimningof silk Illiir Cry in exactly Ibo sliado ofHID rifcpo l wlnic gray nnd wiringcolored llbri iin ip sliolculors aro JIIIIOIIK ili MW

boons of llii lfiiidiOiiicM of In iiii opted

Venn Inn with ringsiiyil mixed cffci IH unil for IIM withthtBU luciH uiu bull curd irliiiintiigM mid

withdrugs

Inlelel had

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pendants of all sort corresponding to ruinedornaments on the lace

Marratnri or string low I tho featureupon other cloth or velvet models andespecially upon fur and plush gannrntnThe wool lams too have their buthave not o far been able to rival thefibre lace

Tho thin and delicate laces have by nomeans been elbowed aside but they ne-narily give plum to heavier varieties in thetrimming of winter cloths sod are re-served for the morn sheer stuffs Chantillyand hold their own and Valen-ciennes will keep the tremendous vogueit ncquirod tins summer being used in tinyfrills In edging in niching and frequentlycombined with other IIICOH of heavierquality

the multiplicity of frills and flouncesin the gowns of ciepe voile chifTon moiw-selino Ac absolutely demands n narrowand dainty edging and Valenciennes-is the Ideal stuff for the purpose It makes

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also the ideal niching for tho wavy scrollduslgns which are the trimming for somany of the straight full 1830 skirts Oneof frocks illustrated in a small outhero has such a skirt tho scroll patternbeing worked out in ruchin B of creamyValenciennes upon the full straight fallingskirt of rom color moussoline The singlepurplice fichu and full sleeves of the bodicearo trimmed in narrow frills of

The apparent simplicity of a majority-of the new skirts in sheer materials mustbe exasperating to the dressmakers whowrestle with tho problem of giving thesefull straight skirts tine proper lures Achiffon skirt sketched hero falls from ashirred yoke and is trimmed at tho bottomonly with long irregular lace motifs inset

Another mina four nuns plaits runningaround the bottom and above them abroad band of heavy lace with narrowtaffeta straps which button to the upper-most nuns plait Two more of thesehorizontal plaits appear above the laceband

This model by the way a particularlymodish ono It is of fine red voile of thenow stiado called heraldry and with thoskirt already described it tins n blouse thedraped shoulder hood of whioh has lace revers strapped in taffeta TIe sleeve is fullabove a long lace ruff silkstropped thelittle guimpo and collar are of lace andon the front of the bodice are two big squarotaffeta rows the lower having long lasBelled ends

Mews of cue shade or another are usedlavishly upon the now frocks and strappingsinto employed upon both street frocks anddressy frocks Plain cloth strapped insills silk strapped in cloth late strappedu

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strapped In cloth lire nil in viewPipings of velvet or silk are wen every¬

where and a lino of piping in bright orangepanne subdued by it line of black silkpiping is one of tho notes of color reliefnest frequently soundd Plaid pipingson plaiatono goods iinvsinotlicr trimmingfancied crud Indent with Parisians plaidshive assumed much important both Indress stuffs and in trimmings

lioautlfiil plaid effects am achiovid Inthe note ztbiliiicK Ills touts holing so sub-dued and so blended that tinematerial Is in no pray glaring or conspicu-ous In olher wools too thorn bun at-tractive plaids niul t ho plaid hand-somer than cti bcfoio

Told ribbons wide or narrow HIP mostsuccessful trimmings lull an sol on ntMat blindbin dors and skirt bunds or innarrow widths form little ruoliings to InImpost upon plain mill Deep girdles nffolded tartan sole supply Ilio only gnyember iiKin SOIIIM chic lilllo bolero cull skirtmodels in plain dark serge or cloth wildas inns bran said before bins bonds of plalitsilk fugotod to bands of fibre braid makea prwtly trimming for a dark frock

Broad plaid ribbon Is sometimes laid

run lines of narrow black velvet ribbonA corresponding bnnil but narrow is sol-on tire skirl at the knees and Hut trimmingIs repented liHill Ism liodlci-

Checks vihllo riol so Hipuliir an theyhave been during the umner ur seraunsung the anliiiiiii silks aid woollensruin Ilio check liiffotHH will m-

Ono new model of HUH kind Is inminiv and or rasps purpU snitwhite iiinJ u made in qiiuint oldworld

all jt klllly

till oil till botinm a on it are

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silks run

of skirt unit

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fashion with a full skirt on which fournarrow straight ruffles arw at wide Intervats rack ruffle headed by milliners

foldAyoke formed of bias tends of the silk

fagoted togetlior nnd bertha In deepscallops of embroidery and laware on full hams and the sleeves amvery extreme being composed of twovery full balloon nifties of tho silk

to the elbow anti standing out aggres-sively over an Inner puff of embroideredbatiste

Sleeves formed of ruffles or triy frillsare on a great munlier of the dressy frocksand corroNponding frills often saver theentire bodice the top frill running allaround the toollotago like a shallow berthaThis monde is charmingly slinpo and attruclivo in an evening frock of chiffoninouRnolliio or other sheer Muff and docaway with the nerowlty of expensivetrimming

A bodice model of this typo illustratedamong the sketches here a broad INI mlof if its full skirt above four littleruffles a narrow ruffle with headingbordering the top of the lace and fallingover It but the skirt might quits as wellhave been trimmed solely by a number of

corresponding with thorn on thobodice

Surely tho debutantes and young girlsshould have appropriate arid charmingdancing frocks and ovenina frocks thus

for all thiva frills and ruchingRand art particularly youthfuland there is a surfeit of rheor dainty youth-ful fabrics from which to choose

Applique flowers of chiffon lightly at-tached at ore point and hanging loosely

set

ahal ill

the

haslace

reach-

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frills

se neatashinrings

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are greatly liked OH trimming for eveninggowns and hand painting figures on someof the most exquisite of the importedevening frocks in chiffon mouFpclInisoft silk and crepe Tho now earif popplhle lovelier than those of last sea-son old no material in market Kiirpafwthem in hearty of texture and color

The meteor cieH mid tho cropos dichino elaborately hand embroidered artboautlful beyond duscriplioi Ombre or

rrt pas

sinner

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shaded ereiips Ion are marvels of exquisitecoloring

Xow India and China silkn of remarkablyfume quality and embroidered indesigns in self color err mot d tdrnblofor house frocks ten gowns Ac and likeor pe lend thta ovo to the most be-wildering handwork f hirrinps llounnings-pulTlng tucliings aitl mo graceful evenin the most voliiniinoiis foltln

A very Foft and supple moire In lightshades is to have corKld rnblo vogue forevening frocks ard efiVcts lire nu

deb

Inch

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umorg the finny silks Sill griii-aril sill nets II plain color nnd-

HowiHid will luoi fiifliioiiHliln Iliiin-ovor and HIP pfirlm ihn roost diirnblo-of tin1 light ulry fnbrio A pluid sills

IniHiiiicriililrt gauzy fllk re putforward iindi r odd i nnn and Ilio floweredIbnura art to rtluUi their rummer jir wtli

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NEW CREATIONS IN

HAIR GOODSDrsicnrl to meet IIr mow advunml l lfas of tooil tute and oo-

trnt stile tile ttimlnt

Pompadours fr Curly BangsWavy Coiffures Gray Hair Wigs

WIOS TOUPEES FOR GENTLEMENHair Uniting Sal Tntmtai Htlr Toaki Powder Ifovtn

54 14th Street near 6lh Ave Ne r Vork

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TIll flower d tdgis are larger than ever andconsequently not liocomirK to all figuresbut they are delightfully artistic and HIIIWof the defigns in blurretl colorsa leek ground are enough to tempt everII short fat woman into buying them

Xibellnes broadcloths and Scotch suitlogs of all kinds lend the list in heavyfabric bud line woman who has a severetailor suit of neutral hued Scotch mixedwool shot through with mil of brightcolor and an afternoon gown of fine broad-cloth or plain yibelitio mny rest contentwith her equipment for outofdoor wear

The fanny zilwlinos are stunning butone might easily tiro of thorn and that isa point to M considered by limn womnn oflimited means between broadclothand flue plain fnr n dressy clothfrock the conservative would IKI forcloth The zlbflho is new fashionableand beautiful hilt broadcloth In alwayscorrect always gives an Impression of

oleganco and in Its prurient perfec-tion of quality is morn adapted the modesof the day than tlio ziholines though thelatter aro surprisingly soft and fine in text-ure this season

There is the usual cry that blouses sodboleros rune going out but till French modelfrocks show many boleros and blouse

serenely turning out new modelsby the thousand The prevalence of timeyoke is the newest feature of the tailored

upon

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quirt

soft

szilr linn

vote

makers are

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blouses or shirt waists in fnce cloth flannel

AcThn yoke him come ns a response to thedemand fur a lung shoulder lino thoughIn Homo of the blouses the effect is obtained

much ingenuityis within the circumscribed limitsallotted to the tailored shirt waist

The group of blouses sketched in tholargo cut is fairly representative and illus-trates a number of the best yoke and cravatideas Clntli in fine quality is time matitifor all of these models but tine Frenchflannels and velveteens of the season makeattractive waists mud there is a boautlfuland varied assortment of mercerized vest-ing and cheviots offorod for mol weathershirt waists

Somo of tlieso mercerized vesting Indark plaids nheoks Ac1 aro not intendedfor the tub but heavy white tub waistswill bo universally worn this winter bythe women who affect smut waists all tintyear round

Shirt waist jackets in broadcloth or

IIy the of epaulettes amidIIi plIld

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use

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flannel urn matin for slipping mi over iliinshirt wall mid very ohio iilTmrsto show an much nn possible of lie shirt-waist airs fiirnlshiiiK itildltionil wiirniMiThy nro little runts tight lining in H-nhnikcut down like the waistcoat of a IIUIIHevening vat In front IxlUd nnd fiiriiisli tlwith tabbed busipiis

very full nlonve ends at thn dhowbroad tnniliiiclt cull not tIt rmmdnd-

i or Inllaillilsh llic ciiil In scarletgrf ii or blue iMiffs revtiH nndmelt liliick moire such is lilisl-ullniclivi fur n oiil fil wivtrir

Till inMttrn Tuit noitiA Irelll IniuiK lliMitiin III n tlliitlox Tliln-

Ihif Hllli Molilin lotiMiic In-ThTo urn rend il nion-

triJlorri one was i jireltyyoung woiiniii who wins domonslnillngIn a xliovs window li Hm shoppingthe nllliiy of a now oui iidour run b-UK n hubuliliite for Mm familiar nil

To operate the diinirislnilDr hellIn window 8 buss flguro of n jr ic gWOIIIHII Mi figure md n prelly facerthat wnn bv ihiiiKM nr

limit the demonstrators own

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read limn I a r was of the sane hi oThe demonstrator held up Dm comb-

at the center of window and then toone side and then to the other forInspection the people outsideand f hi

district Hie innjoriirof the onlookers were women and thenshe rrmilxil out with II softly the hair onthe hall of Ibo figure then set i n

ill In figures hnd whereotherwise n rat might Imve Iren wornand then proccfdcd deftly 10 dicss ilm

over itn minute more or liss huh

quickly anyway she had Ilm pompadouron figure coiuplctitl ilntistepped buck a little to let the llgure

centre of tint si age Thou if yOU Inkfrom il to her ns you were pretty

sure to do noticed Hint slip wore aprecisely Ike tine whlili

lad just made what with their likefeature as well the demonstrator

nnd the figure might rnflly have lienimagined to bo a pair of pretty sisfom

Then when the figure produced itifull effect on the n the lenionslratorwould step forward niiin and unfold tin

from the comb and remove thnfind hold it HRiiin

ns before nt the front of the nndthen at tits side and then atthen she would set it in place once mornand again proceed to arrange the figures

over it and this she would do overover again hurt always calmly nnd

gently never hurrying and nevera crowd

LVXtitlKfi 011 SKinAXTS

Private laths and Nultrs for Them laRome of the Newfst Holism

Tire now palaces built in this city everydo not luxuries for their owners

alopo Tire employees cue also loomedafter and for their com-fort to a degree never known anywhere

ono of tho now houses on an uptownstreet near Fifth avenue the men servantquarters consist of three small rooms onthe top floor Adjoining them is a smalltiled room with a shower a plunge pathand sprays In the same room are thrpobasins in order that the men may allsimultaneously if they want to

tho entrance hallin another sleeping room for a man servantand it has ns light and air us anyin the house in addition to having a private

rooms for the women servantson the top floor and accommodate sixThey ore so arranged that two in cadiroom and l vo the use of a bathroom-In addition to these apartments there aretwo roosts and a bath to be by anyservant who happens to be Ill Thesetwo rooms aro so that a servantin them may be quarantined as completely-as if out of

and separatedtrans n dressing room Li apart-ment of the head nurse Is of course

with its private bath Near theroom of the the house in theroom of her maid and it has the same con-veniences as the others

Thus rue the servants of the wealthyhoused When it Is taken Into considera-tion that these rooms tire in order

with needfulthu housekeeper the lot of time householdservant the States seems meredesirable than ever

Most houses in which a large staff of trr-nntsaro employed have also a sitting roomsfor their Of course not nil rflimo now houses built now have such niequipment as this Unit It is intended forn married only n year agoTime brides mother us

and it will cost SIWOCOO when cniipletetl-

CWViT ISLAXlfS AIlKTITKH-

eeoritHreakliiK iinsiirnptlun tf FranIurtrrn homier thread and llrrr-

Conoy Island holds the worldsrecord for the daily consumption of breadfrunkfurtrs clam chowder cold beer

The sale of frankfurters geiif ruliy eatenby tine visitors whim walking rl n thestreet is estimved at CO DO u weekrestaurant kvpoi on Suf ivitiuc in said to

Prior to the rigid oforc jini or tlie-exclce lw end tlie compulsory hcrvie onSundays of a weal with every gloss ofbeer lima lc f brvadslulf was much lossthan il is now Since tape Dottier tookcommand LllWl loaves of bread 1WUpounds of crirkors nnd HOiCKi rollsthe regular weekly consumptionaverage hotel iuulei u frojn jlKI to

every Sunday morningTlie vale of cliiin in wdirit Oiney Islnml

Iris increased at riMiiarkabK1 rate Notloss than 75000 gallons is sold every woent tlu various stands b is at I sliiicki

the bejiclt to of I liuquantity sold in th lintels servedwith

Another article of food in Inrgnquantities nt Coney Inland is

Sot fewer thancuts of roast heel nand the accOiipnnyinitrolls in sold ivory week during the wiisnr

lint conMimrit Ion of beer at conev Nlaiilis salt to be line grcnicst kroMisumiiier isort in the world Corlnin ilthai that is no other in Mi I niii-StftlMs whirr stem loioWio hoer Hre snlil in w ck duringsummer Tliis iiiitieiiM

lifter is nol furnisliHil by any mo lrewcrvof course All I lie niisl popiilur lireIn be loiind nit tin rermil-

niul ionirmphtixl ruiirltltrr nt n luiil immure ilialrr

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