Debic Horeca Magazine Autumn Winter 2011-2012

New from DebicThe Debic Sauces range

Momofuku New YorkDave Chang’s success story

Menu ManagerCalculating your profit marginbased on a 3-course meal

TaSTY TipS for ChefS

MagaziNeauTuMN – WiNTer 2011–2012

■ Momofuku New York 4 The success story of a chef who became the top hit

of the New York restaurant scene.

■ Creamy emulsions 8 enrich your dishes with a creamy texture

and a velvety taste!

■ Debic Collection 12 give more snap to the dark cold months by adding a twist to traditional seasonal ingredients.

■ get more out of Debic dairy products! 24 By using Debic as the basis for these

applications, you can get even more out of dairy products.

■ Menu Manager 28 practical tips for calculating your profit margin

based on a 3-course meal.

■ Debic Sauces 32 five recipes based on the mushroom cream sauce from the Debic Sauces range.

Published by FrieslandCampina Professional

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www.debic.com

Editorial board

andré van Dongen, Bruno Van Vaerenbergh,

Kurt Boodts, Maurice Janssen, Tom van Meulebrouck

Recipes

andré van Dongen, Bruno Van Vaerenbergh,

Tom van Meulebrouck, Dave Chang, Jan Verhelst

Photography

Kasper van ’t hoff, elizabeth Leitzell,

gabrielle Stabile, Noah Kalina

Design and production

force451

Copyright© 2011

Contents from this publication may not be

copied without the prior permission

of the publisher.

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Colophon

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In this issue

Combining your creativity andyour profit marginThe successful combination of creativity and profitability is more urgent today than ever.in a period in which the catering sector is under pressure, you have to do something extra if you want to hold on to your clientele while maintaining your profit margin. in this issue, you can find both business and creative inspiration, as well as tips on how to achieve the correct mix to ensure a successful start to 2012.

We look at the business side of cooking by, for example, presenting a three-course meal based on a cost calculation. You will see at a glance that a businesslike attitude does not need to put a block on your creativity.another example is a report on Debuut: an organisation that thanks to its centralisation maintains a highly efficient, and thus successful, business operation.

Your creative side will also be stimulated by the collection of dishes designed to add zest to the dark winter months. We have paid a visit to one of the most successful chefs in North america, who has set a new standard for american cuisine in his restaurants. We will also boost your skills by presenting a technique with which you can mix two ingredients that cannot normally be mixed together. in brief, the inspiration in this issue will show you that the two ingredients of creativity and a businesslike approach are indeed very compatible. especially when using Debic’s chilled sauces. These are renowned not only for their convenience, but also for their capacity to inspire you.

We wish you an enjoyable autumn.

The Debic team

Left:Tom van Meulebrouck,Culinary Advisor, Debic

Right:Bruno Van Vaerenbergh,

Pastry Chef, Debic

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Seven years ago, Dave Chang opened a small restaurant in Manhattan, New York. at first it seemed as if the restaurant would end up a fiasco. Dave got to grips with the situation and succeeded in making it work. By means of his individual and controversial approach, according to which he translated his love for noodles into genuine and affordable dishes, he has built up a small empire that has totally changed the standard of american eating habits. With his Momofuku restaurants, he is today one of the most popular chefs in North america.

Dave Changa life of its ownMomofuku restaurant group

Noodle Bar Ssäm Bar

Report

Dave ChangKoreans are real noodle eaters, just like Dave Chang. This american with a Korean background spent years working in various ramenyas. a ramenya is a Japanese noodle shop that serves ‘ramen’: a noodle soup with a variety of toppings. Japanese chefs consider it a sport to prepare the perfect ramen stock with noodles. from Seoul to Virginia, from London to New York, Dave jotted down all the noodle dishes he was served. But the pangs of his metaphorical hunger were not satisfied.Chang studied at the famous Culinary institute of america and worked as a chef in various top restaurants in New York.

he sent letter after letter to the different ramen shops where he had once eaten. finally, he obtained the opportunity to observe the preparation of ramen in a restaurant in Tokyo. Then he became homesick and returned to the uS. There, he took a job at the prestigious Café Boulud. “i worked as hard as i could, but in the end i collapsed due to the relentless work pressure. Stress got the better of me and i returned home to my parents in Virginia. it was here that i made the first plans for my own noodle restaurant.”

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From semi-bankrupt to celebrated entrepreneurSeven years ago, his dream came true: Dave opened a noodle bar on the premises of a former snack bar that had served chicken wings. The name Momofuku is Japanese for ‘lucky peach’. it also pays homage to the inventor of instant noodles, Momofuku ando.

alas, the debut of the newly fledged entrepreneur was anything but lucky. in the first months, Dave Chang was confronted with a lot of setbacks and criticism. he almost went bankrupt. he dropped the noodle bar concept and started cooking whatever he wanted: good meals at an affordable price. Then the tide turned. it was only the second season when guests were queuing to get in, the restaurant was full every day. Dave Chang was even nominated for an award.

Now seven years later, he is the chef and owner of four restaurants (Noodle bar, Ko, Ssäm bar and Ma pêche) as well as four bakeries, better known as Momofuku Milk Bars, in New York. There are also plans for international expansion: after the opening of a branch in Sydney, it will soon be the turn of Toronto (early 2012).

“Failure is the mother of innovation.”

Report

What makes Momofuku so successful?The success lies in the fact that Momofuku offers something totally different to other restaurants, and that there is no such thing as a true american gastronomic culture. The dishes served by Momofuku defy classification. it is a hotchpotch of a variety of cultures: french, american, Japanese, italian, Mexican, and Korean, and has a strong seasonal flavour. in combination with professional cooking techniques, durability, creativity, taste, and an affordable price, Dave Chang has developed his own concept. or, in his own words: “The new standard for american cuisine”. he even once called it “bad pseudo-fusion cuisine”.

The dishes on the menu are not high-end and are inspired by america’s fast food culture. But they are prepared with perfection and carefully tested at the lab. Chang: “it is failure after failure. But failure is the mother of innovation. When something finally succeeds, you try it again and again and in this way you end up with a brilliant creation.” Momofuku claims that with affordable prices you can achieve the same level of cuisine as found in a super deluxe restaurant with expensive tableware and cutlery.

Momofuku signature dishes1. RamenThe famous hand-made noodles with a variety of trimmings in a perfectly prepared ramen soup, where it all began.

2. Steak with rice frittersa nod at the american steak with an asiatic touch of rice fritters.

3. Roast chickena fully jointed roast chicken. everybody loves to eat chicken!

4. Kimchi appleKimchi is a fermented greens dish, much like sauerkraut, but this time with a Korean touch of chillies and garlic. Dave makes his own kimchi varieties according to traditional Korean methods and does not hold back in combining these.

5. Hamachia cross between Japanese sashimi and european gravad lax.

Photography:

Elizabeth Leitzell, Gabrielle Stabile, Noah Kalina

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Thetechnique behindcreamy emulsions

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i love Technics

in the kitchen we distinguish between two different types of emulsion: oil-in-water (o/W) and water-in-oil (W/o). a water-in-oil emulsion is composed of very small drops of water dispersed in the oil. Butter is the most common example of a W/o emulsion. an oil-in-water emulsion is precisely the reverse, with tiny drops of oil dispersed in the water. The most common examples are cream, milk and mayonnaise.

the key to a stable emulsionfat and water do not mix easily. The trick with an o/W emulsion is to disperse the fat as tiny fat globules in the water by, for example, blending them at high speed with a hand blender. unfortunately, emulsions tend to break up again. The liquids separate again, which results in fat forming a layer on top of the water. Look at what happens to a dressing, for example. after a while, a layer of oil forms on top. in order to ensure that these two substances are stable and that the emulsion does not separate, we need an additional substance.

Emulsifying agentWhen preparing mayonnaise, we use egg yolk in order to obtain a homogeneous emulsion. The lecithin in the egg yolk serves as an emulsifying agent. The emulsifying agent searches for its place between the oil and water phases and forms a thin coating. it serves as a kind of interface around the drops that prevents these from blending and forms a homogeneous emulsion. When using Debic Culinaire original as the basis for preparing an emulsion, it is, in principle, not necessary to add any extra emulsifying agents: these are already naturally present in the cream. When preparing an aioli, the substance allicin in garlic functions as an effi cient emulsifying agent.

How do you avoid the formation of fat globules? even with these emulsifying agents it remains possible that the emulsion will separate. This can be caused by temperature fl uctuations that often occur in a kitchen. in the case of high temperatures, the molecules start moving around and the drops can once again blend into two different layers. in the case of low temperatures, the surface tension increases. The emulsifying agent can no longer contain this tension and the result can ultimately be a breaking up of the emulsion. This results in the formation of fat globules. it can be avoided by adding a stabiliser in the form of xanthan gum. This cold soluble stabiliser has a strong delaying action on the formation of fat globules and the sedimentation of the water. This ensures a creamy emulsion that will remain stable for a long time.

The technique of making a stable emulsion is described on the following page, step by step in pictures and words.

What is an emulsion?An emulsion is a mixture of two liquids that would not normally mix together. Debic has experience with this: products such as cream and butter are well known emulsions, but also mayonnaise and aioli are classic examples of creamy emulsions. In this ‘I love Technics’ you can see all that is involved in making a stable emulsion. Moreover, you will be encouraged to enrich your dishes with inspiring and colourful recipes based on Debic products that add a creamy texture and a velvety taste!

oil and waterseparated

fat globulesin water

Broken upemulsion

emulsion withemulsifying agent

Stableemulsion

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StEP 1 When preparing a stable emulsion, it is essential that all the ingredients have the same temperature. The dispersed liquid is distributed in the continuous phase. in this case, the continuous phase is the water phase since we are dealing with an oil-in-water emulsion. as the water phase we take Debic Culinaire original that already contains an emulsifying agent. a stabiliser in the form of xanthan gum is also added to the cream, plus the other seasonings such as salt and vinegar. This serves as the balance for the taste, ensuring that it is not too fatty. for the oil phase we use Debic roast & fry, for a very creamy taste based on clarified butter.

StEP 2 We mix the cream, xanthan gum, salt, vinegar and any other seasonings in advance with the hand blender, so that all ingredients are well mixed. There is a rule of thumb for the proportions of water and oil. The volume of the oil phase that is dispersed may not be more than three times the volume of the continuous water phase. The hand blender must be powerful enough for the volume of the liquids so that it is able to disperse the tiny fat globules into the continuous phase. You can also use a blender. after the fatty substance has been added to the continuous phase, the emulsion is slowly mixed to an homogeneous mass. first, the fatty substance is slowly mixed into the water phase from the bottom up. The more of the fatty substance that is incorporated by the continuous phase and the thicker the structure of the emulsion, the faster you can mix.

StEP 3 in this phase a homogeneous and stable emulsion is created. if the emulsion should nevertheless become broken, begin the continuous phase once again with a small quantity and add the broken emulsion while stirring. The emulsion should preferably be stored at between 5 and 10 degrees in a squirt bottle. remember to shake well before use. in order to create a number of variations and refine the emulsion sauce, you can add various seasonings/flavourings to the continuous phase. You can also add ingredients to the oil phase as well as during the infusion shown on page 26.

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Xxxxxi love Technics

Wasabi300 ml Debic Culinaire original 600 ml Debic roast & fry 20 g wasabi15 ml yuzu juice10 g salt3 g xanthan gum

Creamy emulsionsafter the theory, now the practice. These tried-and-tested recipes from the Debic cooking studio will set you on your way to adding a colourful touch to your own creations.

tangerine150 g tangerine purée150 ml Debic Culinaire original 300 ml Debic roast & fry300 ml olive oil with orange15 ml lemon juice10 g salt3 g xanthan gum

Saffron Paprika100 g paprika purée200 ml Debic Culinaire original300 ml Debic roast & fry 300 ml chilli pepper oil12 ml sherry vinegar10 g garlic10 g salt2 g saffron3 g xanthan gum

Roquefort100 g roquefort300 ml Debic Culinaire original 300 ml Debic roast & fry 300 ml hazelnut oil10 ml white vinegar10 g salt3 g xanthan gum

Basil150 g basil purée150 ml Debic Culinaire original300 ml Debic roast & fry 300 ml basil oil15 ml lemon juice10 g garlic10 g salt3 g xanthan gum

tuna150 g tuna150 ml Debic Culinaire original300 ml Debic roast & fry 300 ml olive oil15 ml lemon juice10 g garlic10 g salt3 g xanthan gum

Black Sesame30 g black sesame seed roasted250 ml Debic Culinaire original400 ml Debic roast & fry 200 ml sesame oil15 ml lemon juice10 g garlic10 g soy sauce

Hazelnut100 g roasted hazelnut200 ml Debic Culinaire original300 ml Debic roast & fry 300 ml hazelnut oil15 ml lemon juice10 g garlic10 g salt3 g xanthan gum

Mustard300 ml Debic Culinaire original600 ml Debic roast & fry50 g coarse mustard15 ml white vinegar10 g salt3 g xanthan

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foie piña Coladacreamy goose liver in a cocktail of pineapple, rum and coconut

Give more snap to the dark, cold months by adding a twist to traditional seasonal ingredients. Here you can fi nd four creations that will give your menu wintry character using ingredients that are available until early spring. These dishes are intended to give you inspiration in the area of taste combinations, structures and shapes.

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XxxxxDebic Collection

MethodClean the goose liver and remove the veins and nerve strings. Break into pieces and mix with the colorozo salt, salt and sugar, leave to soak for 3 hours.roll the goose liver to form a sausage between layers of plastic foil and aluminium foil, cook 20 minutes under vacuum in a warm bath of 50 °C and cool down. Blend the goose liver together with the low-fat cream and season if necessary. using a piping bag, pipe into pVC tubes covered with acetate foil and leave in the fridge to set. Thinly slice the pineapple into rectangles using the cutter machine. Juice the remaining pineapple and boil with vanilla. pass through a sieve and mix with the xanthan gum.

for the caramelised pineapple. Bring to the boil the Sauvignon Blanc, 100 grams of sugar and water. Caramelise 250 grams of sugar and now add the poaching juice and the scraped-out vanilla pod. Clean the pineapple and add to the poaching juice. Boil for 10–15 minutes and leave for one night in the fridge to marinate.heat the whipped cream and add 2 grams of agar-agar. Leave to boil for two minutes and then cool down on iced water until the whipped cream is fully clotted and blend fi nely. repeat this procedure for the pineapple purée. Spread the whipped cream on acetate foil cut to size. Take a spreading comb and draw it over the mass, so that a striped pattern is created. freeze and when fully frozen divide the pineapple purée on top. roll up the acetate foil and cover the inside of the tube shapes with this and then freeze once again. Beat the Debic parfait until airy and add the remaining ingredients. Squirt with the help of a piping bag into previously covered tube shapes and leave to freeze fully. Cover the thinly sliced pineapple with sugar water and dry for 6 hours at 65 °C.

FinishMix all ingredients for the coconut espuma. fill a syphon with the mass and aerate with one nitrous oxide cartridge. roll the goose liver in the thin slices of pineapple, spread over the pineapple vanilla mixture and dress up on the plate. Dress up the parfait on the plate next to the cannelloni and place a pineapple croquant between. Slice the caramelised pineapple into brunoise and fi nish with the coconut espuma and a drop of the pineapple vanilla mixture.

Ingredientsrecipe for 10 people

Cannelloni of foie gras600 g goose liver

5 g colorozo salt

5 g salt

5 g sugar

300 ml Debic Culinaire original

500 g pineapple

600 ml pineapple juice

1 vanilla pod

1 g xanthan gum

Caramelised pineapple1 pineapple

100 ml Sauvignon Blanc

100 g sugar

100 ml water

250 g sugar

1 vanilla pod

Yoghurt parfait500 ml Debic Cream 35%

500 g pineapple purée

4 g agar-agar

500 ml Debic parfait

120 ml greek yoghurt

5 ml lime juice

20 ml white rum

Pineapple croquant200 g pineapple

100 ml sugar water

Coconut espuma150 ml Debic Cream 35%

150 ml coconut milk

100 ml sugar water

50 ml coconut liqueur

10 ml lime juice

2 g salt

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Sauerkraut risotto 500 g risotto rice

50 g shallot, diced

300 ml sauerkraut juice

200 ml white wine

200 ml chicken stock

100 ml Debic Culinaire original

100 g mustard emulsion

50 ml Debic roast & fry

Sauerkraut500 g sauerkraut

200 ml Debic roast & fry,

infusion (see page 26)

200 g smoked bacon

Brine bath1 L water

80 g colorozo salt

Braised pork cheek1 kg pork cheek

1 L Debic roast & fry

20 g chervil, sliced

50 ml pork stock

3 g powdered egg white

Soft-cooked pork belly 500 g pork belly

50 ml pork stock

Caramelised apple 2 apples

100 g crystal sugar


Methodfor the risotto, sweat the shallots in Debic roast & fry, add the rice until the rice grains become shiny, quench with the wine and leave the rice to absorb the juice. Then add the chicken stock and sauerkraut juice. allow the juice to be absorbed, cook the risotto al dente and leave to cool. Let the sauerkraut drain and cook with the other ingredients on a lower heat.for the brine bath, dissolve the colorozo salt in the water. Clean the pork belly and pork cheeks and soak the meat at least 12 hours in the brine bath. rinse the meat for 30 minutes under cold running water and dab dry.Cook the cheeks and the bacon in Debic roast & fry on a low heat or in a warm bath for 24 hours at 67 °C. Take the braised cheeks and mix with the powdered egg white, chervil and small quantity of the fat. roll the meat tight in plastic foil and store in the fridge.

Finishheat the risotto adding cream and mustard emulsion. heat the sauerkraut and leave to drain in a sieve. Slice the apples in rings and caramelise them in a pan with the sugar and Debic roast & fry. Slice the pork cheek into equal portions and carefully heat in the stock. Slice the pork belly into the desired portions, heat the pork belly under the cylindrical stove and glaze the pork belly with the stock.

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Debic Collection

Sauerkraut risottowith braised pork cheek, slowly cooked pork belly and caramelised apple

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Lightly smokedwood pigeon in spinach leaf with cream of Jerusalem artichoke,fl exible sanguinaccio, grains, cep mushrooms and sauce of blackberry and bourbon whiskey

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Lightly smoked wood pigeon in spinach leaf5 wild pigeon

200 g duck breast

200 ml Debic Cream 35%

200 g spinach

200 g smoke chips, Jack Daniels

Brine bath1 L water

80 g colorozo salt

Jerusalem artichoke cream50 ml Debic Culinaire original

700 g Jerusalem artichoke

200 ml Debic traditional butter

6 g salt

Flexible sanguinaccio600 ml Debic Cream 35%

400 ml chicken stock

400 g blood sausage/black pudding

200 g dark chocolate, 70%

100 g Debic traditional butter

5 g konjac gum *

3 g xanthan gum

2 g salt

1 g ground cinnamon

Blackberry sauce200 g blackberry purée

50 ml Bourbon whiskey

200 g white onions

Garnish200 g sweet millet

200 g cep mushrooms

100 g hazelnut

* Konjac gum is a binding agent, used to obtain an elastic structure. Konjac gum is available wholesale.

MethodClean the pigeons and slice the breast meat off the carcass. Dissolve the colorozo salt in the water and soak breasts for 12 hours in the brine bath. rinse the meat 30 minutes under cold running water, pat dry and remove the skin. remove the fat of the duck and make a fi ne blend of the duck breast and the cream to make stuffi ng. Season with salt and pepper and use a palette knife to portion the stuffi ng on the top of the breast meat and cool. Blanch the spinach and pat dry. place the spinach on the pigeon breast and vacuum the pigeon breasts. Cook for 25 minutes in a warm water bath at 65 °C.peel the Jerusalem, slice into small pieces and cook in the low-fat cream. Blend with the cream and season with salt and pepper.Dissolve the xanthan and konjac gum in 200 ml of stock. heat the remaining stock and add the blood sausage/black pudding. Create a fi ne blend and pass through a fi ne sieve. heat the whipped cream and dissolve the cinnamon and the salt in it. Mix the heated whipped cream and both stock mixtures in the blender. finally, add the chocolate. Deposit on a baking tray covered with parchement paper and cover with cling fi lm. Store in the fridge and leave until set.Clean the onions and slice into thick rings. Candy the rings in Debic roast & fry until al dente. heat the blackberry purée and add the whiskey and bind if desired with 1% xanthan gum. Leave to cool and store in a squirt bottle.Sauté the cep mushrooms. Wash the grains in cold running water and prepare grains as a risotto with chicken stock and season with hazelnut oil.

FinishSlice the fl exible sanguinaccio into long strips and dress up on a warm plate.Smoke the pigeons à la minute by heating a spoon in the fl ame and dressing the smoke shreds on the spoon. Cover for 2–3 minutes, slice lengthwise and dress up on the plate. heat the Jerusalem artichoke purée, add the butter and put a drop of it on the plate. Spread out the onion rings and fi ll with the blackberry sauce. finish off with the grains, cep mushrooms and roasted hazelnuts.

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with structures of peanuts, banana, and chocolate

autumn dessert

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Banana espuma600 ml Debic panna Cotta

400 ml banana purée

Chocolate cylinder500 g chocolate, caramel

100 g peanuts

30 g crystal sugar

100 g popping candy

Chocolate mousse465 ml Debic Cream 35%

200 g dark chocolate 64%

2 g leaf gelatine

100 g egg white

65 g sugar

Peanut butter mousse500 ml Debic panna Cotta


150 g peanut butter

90 g egg white

50 g sugar

4 g gelatine

Caramelised banana350 g banana

50 g sugar

Cocoa nibs coulis100 g cocoa nibs

350 ml sugar water


20 g cocoa powder

2 g salt

autumn dessertMethodMelt the Debic panna Cotta and mix with the banana purée to make the banana mousse. pour into a siphon, aerate with 2 nitrous oxide cartridges and cool down. for the cylinder, heat the chocolate to the right temperature and spread onto a piece of acetate foil cut to size. roll up the foil, fi x with some chocolate and leave to set. Caramelise the peanuts with the sugar in a frying pan. Leave to cool and slice into large pieces. Mix with 200 grams of the remaining chocolate and at the end stir the popping sugar into the mass. pour the mass onto a baking tray covered with baking paper and cut out the shapes with a round cutter that fi ts into the cylinder and leave to set.for the chocolate mousse, melt the chocolate, beat the cream to yoghurt thickness, steep the gelatine in cold water, beat the egg white until frothy and gradually add the sugar. Mix the chocolate with the gelatine and egg white and then fold the cream through the mass with a spatula. Store in a container in the fridge.for the peanut butter mousse, heat ¼ of the cream, beat the remaining cream to yoghurt thickness, steep the gelatine in cold water, beat the egg white until frothy and gradually add the sugar. add the gelatine and peanut butter to the heated cream and mix with the beaten egg white then fold the layers of cream into the mass with a spatula. fill into silicone moulds and leave to set in the fridge. freeze the beaten peanut butter mousse, melt the Debic panna Cotta, spread the peanut butter mousse on top, and leave to set in the fridge.remove the peel of the banana and slice. Store the banana in the freezer. heat sugar water, cocoa powder, salt and cocoa nibs to boiling point and leave to simmer for 5 minutes. remove from heat, add whipped cream and cool down.

Finishplace a quenelle chocolate mousse on a few chopped peanuts. remove the peanut mousse from the mould and dress up op the plate. Caramelise the banana with the help of a crème brûlée burner and the sugar. Spread the chocolate sauce onto the plate and fi nish off with the banana espuma.

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over a period of ten years, Lotus root has found its niche, tells Jan Verhelst. “after ten years we have established this style. California inspired Cuisine is a style that is composed of a traditional base with Californian influences, from which i have taken the international aspect in particular. Californian cuisine as such does not exist. it is rather a melting pot of local products that are often top quality. California is the pantry of the States! You can find king crab, fantastic meat, asian and Mexican influences, sushi and herbs. on top of this you have the best wines in the world. That completes the sunny image. That is why we call it ‘California inspired’.”

this is not a fusion restaurant!Just to avoid any misunderstanding: this is in no way fusion. Jan Verhelst: “fusion is an abused word. once, in frustration, i went so far as to write on my menu: this is not a fusion restaurant! as was the case with the nouvelle cuisine in the 1980s and now with molecular cuisine, fusion is not always interpreted correctly. This means that the client experiences it as a less ‘genuine’ cuisine. fusion at our kitchen means bringing together and combining techniques and ingredients, on the basis of my traditional training. for example, beurre blanc with yuzu and green tea, bisque with lemongrass and coconut milk, dark chocolate from the Caribbean with fried banana etc.”

Culinary artfood perception in California is totally different, he remarks. “The best cooks have not enjoyed the traditional training that we are used to. it is mainly their drive and enthusiasm that after years of effort gets them the position of Top Chef. You also see that in California a sort of ‘culinary art’ is coming into being.Culinary events take on hype proportions, with TV programmes, shows, books, blogs, whatever you can think of. This does not benefit the professional know-how of chefs.” he also saw a different type of restaurant. “restaurants with 500 to 700 covers are no exception. California embraces large-scale concepts, such as sushi bars or tapas bars. restaurants are open late, sometimes operate even behind closed doors in order to evade the legal closing hour. Customers don’t find it a problem to queue for 45 minutes in order to get a table. That is inconceivable in Belgium and the Netherlands. a common feature is that there are always good wines on the menu.”

Californiainspired CuisineNot a fusion restaurantArmed with traditional French cookery training and adventurous enthusiasm, Jan Verhelst crossed the ocean. Destination: a distant relative in California. In the international hotels and kitchens where he worked, he caught the bug. Not only the enthusiasm for Californian cuisine, but also for his partner, Caroline, whom he met there. Ten years later, Jan was back in Belgium with the sun and the spirit of California as his most important baggage. This was the start of Lotus Root, their own restaurant of ‘California Inspired Cuisine’.

Identikit

Jan Verhelst: Lotus root

Born in: 1975 ghent, Belgium

track record: Ter Duinen, apicius gent.be;

Club Satay and City Treasure; Sacramento;

Sushi Nobu; San francisco.

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Visit & Create

Little fussWith a modest investment, Jan and Caroline were able to acquire an existing restaurant on the southern edge of ghent. “We did not create any fuss but we immediately established our own specific cuisine. By working with good products and carefully evaluating the style and technique, we have fortunately not been labelled an experimental cuisine. ghent is not a metropolis and i also want to make money on weekdays. You can’t do this if you serve food that people aren’t sure of.”The lunch (the ‘market menu’) is the visiting card to entice clients to the larger menus. “When all is said and done, my profit margin on the lunch menu is low but this enables me and my staff to prepare amply for the weekends.”

Looking for the right supplierLotus root does not have a traditional menu. “i allow myself to be steered and inspired by my suppliers, they have to feel what i need”, notes Jan Verhelst. “They are just as important as clients and staff. Suppliers phone me with interesting offers when they are at the fish market or nosing around in rungis (wholesale market). Things like this require time and trust. i do not go overboard with local food, i put greater emphasis on finding the right supplier. for example, discovering forgotten vegetables that then get greater attention from the grower. We then benefit from this. at the end of the day we have a good offering, with delicious tastes.” and with daring dishes. “Naturally, you must have the confidence to put daring combinations on the menu. oysters with kalamansi, pigeon with chocolate, ice cream with fermented miso. our aim is always for the DNa of the main ingredient to come to the fore. These are, by now, consistently used as we compose the menu.”

Caroline’s passionLotus root has – bearing in mind the Californian background – in the meantime also earned itself a reputation in the realm of wines. “We let the client select the wine that suits his budget. in the case of larger menus and large groups, we often serve premium wines with a small profit margin. That is Caroline’s passion. She knows how to satisfy everyone with her knowledge and her suggestions. it also works the other way round. if a type of wine must be promoted, we look for the right dishes to go with it.”

Keep at it!he is pleased to give advice to young chefs. “ensure that you have good training and invest time into working for a couple of large well-known restaurants. This looks good on your CV and is a positive influence on your career. You will be confronted there with situations that you do not learn about at school. above all, keep your eyes and your ears open, share knowledge. and the most important tip: keep at it!”

Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe: “that too is fusion!”When, a couple of years ago, he was given the chance to become chairman of Jeunes restaurateurs d’europe, Jan Verhelst didn’t hesitate. “The special feature of this association is the mix: various ages, various cooking styles and from a variety of countries. The group has developed enormously. i also think that we are the most energetic association in europe. The most important aspect is supporting young chefs. in the club, all the various aspects of our profession are discussed, from procurement and suppliers to tax issues. Chefs are inspired to brainstorm and to discuss variations of ingredients. They share know-how and techniques. also the international contacts are very inspiring: learning about what is going on across the border. That too is fusion!”

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Visit & Create

Ingredients

Pommes moscovite4 large truffle potatoes

(Bleu d’artois, Monde Des

Milles Couleurs/Dikkebus)

crème fraiche (*)

freshly diced chives

ikura salmon eggs

bonito flakes (katsuobushi)

fistful garden herbs and

wild flowers

pepper and salt

Danish rock salt

Crème fraiche1 L Debic Cream 35%

250 ml buttermilk

pommes Moscovite Lotus root Crème fraicheSeason the cream to taste, add lemon juice, pepper, and fresh herbs.Mix thoroughly at room temperature, leave to thicken for 24 hours.

Pommes Moscovite rinse truffle potatoes and brush clean.place potatoes in salted cold water and boil till ready. rinse and allow to dry.Details of how to present the potato: (horizontal) cut off the top of the potato, use a parisienne spoon to remove the flesh and place the small balls in a mixing bowl.Season to taste with crème fraiche, bonito flakes, fresh garden herbs, pepper and salt and fill the hollowed-out potato with the mixture.garnish with extra crème fraiche, garden herbs, a big spoonful of salmon eggs and a variety of garden herbs: Japanese water pepper, bronze fennel, oca leaf (sorrel), blossom of creeping savory, red chilli blossom.

23

Ingredients

Pork belly1 piece pork belly (200g)

13 g brine salt

1 L water

laurel

thyme

coriander

mustard seed

Zesty Greek lemon jelly8 organically grown lemons

1 L water

600 g sugar

Sesame gomassio75 g white sesame seed

10 g coarse sea salt

dried zest

of organically grown

bergamot oranges

Pickled mustard seeds250 ml water

125 ml rice vinegar

85 g sugar

10 g coarse sea salt

1 Chinese anise

4 g black pepper

4 g ginger, chopped

½ jalapeno, unseeded, chopped

55 g mustard seed

Smoked eel mousse10 ml Debic roast & fry

350 g smoked eel

50 g bread

150 ml milk


20 g shallot

10 ml lemon juice

Soy jelly500 ml water

12.5 ml Japanese soy sauce

7.5 g agar-agar

pork Belly zesty Pork belly Soak pork belly in brine for 24 hours, remove and pat dry.Vacuum with the herbs and cook for 24–36 hours at 65 °C.

(after 36 hours, the pork belly is fully cooked, in the restaurant we prefer to cook it for a shorter period of time. Then there is still a bite to the meat and the colour is more attractive.)

Zesty Greek lemon jelly Make lengthwise cuts into the lemons and blanch three times.Boil the water and the sugar together and cook the lemons for a total of 1 hour at a low temperature with the lid on.open the lemons, remove the pips and mix everything smooth in the thermomix.add syrup according to taste. place the smooth mass in a piping bag and store cooled.

Sesame gomassio Toast the sesame seed in a dry pan, mix with the coarse sea salt and, if desired, add other flavours such as dried bergamot zest or green tea. grind finely with the mortar. Serve lukewarm.

Pickled mustard seeds place all ingredients together, bring to the boil, sieve and cook with the mustard seeds.This dish can be stored for some time in a preserving jar or pot with a sealed lid.

Smoked eel mousseSweat the onion in a small quantity of butter and add the rest of the ingredients. freeze in a pacojet beaker for 12 hours and turn twice in the pacojet before serving.

Soy jellyBring everything to the boil, add agar and leave to boil for 2 minutes. Deposit on a dish, 1 mm thick and leave to gel in the fridge. Slice into long strips and use a piping bag to squirt the eel mousse into the jelly and roll to form a cannelloni.


Crème Brûlée of Parmesan750 ml Debic Culinaire original

350 g parmesan cheese

300 g egg yolk

Aceto balsamico sugar150 ml aceto balsamico

500 g crystal sugar

parmesanCrème Brûléeon the basis of Debic Culinaire original

Method Bring the Debic Culinaire original to the boil. grate the parmesan cheese and add to the cream in three portions until all cheese is dissolved. Mix the egg yolks with 1/3 of the cheese and cream mixture and add the remaining cream. pass through a fi ne sieve and leave to cool. Mix the aceto balsamico with the sugar and leave to dry for 12 hours at 50 °C. finely grind and store in sealed container.

FinishScoop the crème brûlée mass into heat resistant glasses. place the glasses in a gastronorm dish fi lled with water, so that they are partly underwater. Cover carefully with plastic foil and cook for 30–40 minutes (depending on the size) in the oven at 90 °C. Cool down and caramelise with the aceto balsamico sugar.

Debic offers an extensive product range. These products have been specially developed for use in professional kitchens. They offer not only constant quality, speed and convenience, but also the scope for the cook to add an individual touch to the dish. With Debic products as your base, you can achieve various tastes and structures that give an added value to your dishes. The possibilities in the kitchen are infi nite.on the following pages you will fi nd a number of applications and tips for obtaining even greater satisfaction from your Debic range.

get more out of Debic dairy products!

24 | Debic Magazine

XxxxxLimitless

espumaon the basis ofDebic Crème anglaise Bourbon

Method Mix the whipped cream with the Cream anglaise Bourbon and fill a syphon with the mixture. aerate with 2 nitrous oxide cartridges and store in the fridge until use.

Finishfinish off your dessert with a blob of the airy vanilla espuma. Ingredients

recipe for 10 people


400 ml Debic Crème anglaise Bourbon


10 eggs


200 ml Debic hollandaise Sauce

200 g smoked fish

20 g chives

Method Slice off the tops of the eggs with a special egg top slicer. Separate the egg yolks from the egg white and store the egg yolks in the fridge. Clean eggshells thoroughly and place the egg yolk back in the shell. Cover and store in the fridge. Beat the whipped cream until frothy, mix with the Debic hollandaise Sauce and store in the fridge. Slice the fish into brunoise, snip the chives and store in the fridge.

Finishheat the eggshells with the egg yolk in the oven for 5 minutes. place the fish on top of the egg yolk and finish with the hollandaise cream. Serve these eggs as an hors d’oeuvre or as an amusing contrast between cold and warm structures.

oeuf Benedictuson the basis of Debic hollandaise Sauce

25

Spice infusionon the basis of Debic roast & fry


1 L Debic roast & fry

2 cinnamon sticks

2 Chinese anise

4 g coriander seed

2 g clove

2 g black pepper, bruised

2 g juniper berries, bruisedMethodMix the spices with Debic roast & fry. pour into a vacuum bag and create a vacuum. place in a bain-marie or in a röner at 75 °C and infuse for at least 1 hour. Then leave to soak for at least 1 day in the fridge. pour through a fine sieve and store in a squirt bottle.

More inspiration in the field of infusions on the basis of Debic Roast & Fry:- Chorizo and red pepper infusion with chicken or other poultry.- Lemon or lime peel infusion to cook salmon at a low temperature.- Chinese anise/clove/coriander seed infusion to fry game.- Lavender and orange peel infusion to fry crepes.- rosemary, thyme and garlic to fry small potatoes.


2 kg Debic roast & Spread

250 g green herbs, mixed

50 g garlic

20 g salt

10 g Tabasco

Mixed herbbutteron the basis of Debic roast & Spread

Method Beat the butter in the planetary mixer till airy. Chop the herbs and garlic finely and add, together with the salt and the Tabasco, to the butter. fill a piping bag with a serrated nozzle and squirt the herbal butter in the desired shape. Store in the fridge or, if for a longer period, in the freezer.

26 | Debic Magazine

XxxxxLimitless

Did you know that... The ideal heating temperature of Debic roast & fry is between 180 and 200 °C and this is the ideal product for making an infusion. an infusion is nothing more than a liquid in which flavourings and seasoning have been steeped so that they leave their aroma. if you do this in a vacuum, the advantage is that you can preserve the full aroma, there is no possibility for it to escape. another important point is the tempera-ture. in order to preserve the original taste of the butter in Debic roast & fry we infuse at a low temperature. in practice, we add a quantity of Debic roast & fry to the flavourings in a vacuum bag and leave them to infuse in a bain-marie at below 75 °C .

Debic roast & Spread is immediatelyspreadable when it leaves the fridge and is specially developed for catering and lunch. it is delivered in containers of 2 kilos and is extremely well suited for making compound butter.

Whipped cream is preferably beaten at a temperature of between 2 and 4 °C.

a litre of milk contains approx. 4% milk fat. This means that you need 10 litres of milk for making 1 litre whipped cream of 40%.

in the kitchen, cooks always spend a lot of time clarifying butter. With Debic roast & fry this is no longer necessary, because it is already clarified. This saves a lot of work and time in the kitchen. it is, on balance, far more economic, as clarifying will easily lead to a 25 to 30% loss of the total weight.

Debic Culinaire original is a cooking cream that tastes just like traditional cream. in the recipe for the Crème Brûlée of parmesan, you can rely on the cooking cream, given that it will not curdle during the heated preparation, and the end result in combination with the cheese and the egg yolks will be a taste that is not too fatty.

27

Menu Managerin this section we examine the business side of the kitchen by presenting a 3-course meal and the corresponding calculations.

Starting points:The selling price of the menu is calculated at € 30 (incl. VaT).

Conclusion:You will see at a glance that a businesslike attitude does not have to be a block on your creativity. The result of this menu gives you at least 75% profit!

* VAT, repayments, and personnel costs are not included.All prices cited are recommended retail prices.

3-course meal price per person € 30.00

Number of meals 10 covers

Cost price Selling price* Margin result

Potage of celeriac € 10.15 € 42.45 76%

Roast venison fillet € 46.34 € 179.25 74%

Autumn aromas € 14.83 € 61.32 76%

total € 71,33 € 283,02 75%

See it for yourselfwith the calculationsin the following table

and calculate yourprofit margin with

the handy recipecalculator on

www.debic.com

28 | Debic Magazine

XxxxxMenu Manager

potage of celeriacan espuma of chorizo

Method for the potage, slice the celery root into brunoise and sweat it in a pan with Debic roast & fry. add the stock and the low-fat cream and bring the soup to boiling point. Cook for 30 minutes and purée smooth with the hand blender. pass, if necessary, through a fine sieve and season with salt and pepper.for the chorizo espuma, finely slice the chorizo, shallot, paprika and garlic, and heat untill softened in the olive oil. add stock and simmer for 30 minutes. Make a fine blend and pass through a fine sieve. add the cream and if necessary season. pour into a syphon and aerate with one nitrous oxide cartridge and then cool. remove from the fridge well before use and serve the froth lukewarm.Slice the bread into long strips and spread olive oil and salt on top and bake 12–15 minutes in the oven at 160 °C.

Finishpour the soup and place the braised oxtail into the plates. finish with the chorizo espuma, crostini, and chopped parsley.


Price per kg./ total

piece

Potage of celeriac750 ml Debic Culinaire

original € 2.80 € 2.10

750 ml poultry stock € 2.00 € 1.50

1 celery root € 0.95 € 0.95

20 ml Debic roast & fry € 4.01 € 0.01

10 g salt € 0.77 € 0.01

Espuma of chorizo 200 ml Debic Cream 35% € 3.95 € 0.79

250 g chorizo € 8.30 € 2.08

50 g red pepper € 1.80 € 0.09

25 g shallots € 1.40 € 0.04

15 g garlic € 2.20 € 0.03

50 ml olive oil € 7.60 € 0.38

200 ml poultry stock € 2.00 € 0.40

Garnishes 200 g Tramazini bread € 0.90 € 0.18

25 g parsley € 5.00 € 0.13

150 g oxtail meat € 6.50 € 0.98

5% Supplement for other basic ingredients € 0.48

Total cost (excl. VaT) € 10.15

23% food Cost Total cost per person (excl. VaT) € 1.01

STarTer

29

Method peel the potatoes and make thin slices. Mix the Debic gratin Sauce with the truffle purée and mix with the potatoes. Spread out in an oven dish and bake for 20–30 minutes at 160 °C.finely slice the red cabbage, shallots and apples and put around ten large cabbage leaves aside. Soften the shallots on low heat and add cabbage and apples. pour in the wine and vinegar. add the spices and simmer half an hour on low heat. Cook the cabbage leaves al dente in the juice of the red cabbage and leave to cool in the juice. place 3 layers of cling film on top of each other and cover with the cabbage leaves. fill with the red cabbage and roll up to form a sausage shape. Cool completely and slice into portions.

Finish fry the meat all around in the Debic roast & fry. Season the meat and bake in the oven at 90 °C to a core temperature of 54 °C. grate the truffle gratin with the cheese and serve as a side dish. heat the cannelloni covered in the steamer and place on the plate. Dress up the dish according to your own insight and finish off with the Béarnaise sauce.

roastvenison filletwith cannelloni of red cabbage and truffle gratin

Ingredients recipe for 10 people


piece

Venison fillet1600 g venison € 22.00 € 35.20

500 ml Debic Béarnaise Sauce € 4.50 € 2.25

Cannelloni of red cabbage600 g red cabbage € 0.55 € 0.33

100 ml red wine € 2.50 € 0.25

50 ml white wine vinegar € 1.40 € 0.07

200 g golden Delicious apple € 1.15 € 0.23

100 g shallots € 2.00 € 0.20

50 g sugar € 0.77 € 0.04

10 g salt € 0.42 € 0.00

5 g five spice € 18.00 € 0.09

truffle gratin1 kg potatoes € 0.75 € 0.75

1 L Debic gratin Sauce € 3.75 € 3.75

100 g parmesan cheese € 18.00 € 0.90

10 g truffle tapenade € 6.50 € 0.07

5% Supplement for basic ingredients € 2.21



MaiN CourSe

30 | Debic Magazine

XxxxxMenu Manager



piece

Airy chocolate cream 600 ml Debic Cream 35% € 3.95 € 2.37

200 ml whole milk € 0.92 € 0.18

50 g glucose € 1.10 € 0.06

300 g dark chocolate € 7.00 € 2.10

tangerine jelly 500 g tangerine purée € 5.50 € 2.75

40 g sugar € 0.77 € 0.03

4 g leaf gelatine € 30.00 € 0.12

Almond cream 350 ml Debic panna Cotta € 4.96 € 1.74

350 g yoghurt € 1.10 € 0.39

350 g almond paste € 10.00 € 3.50

Almond praline 100 g almonds € 8.50 € 0.85

50 g sugar € 0.77 € 0.04

2 g salt € 0.42 € 0.00

5% Supplement for other basic ingredients € 0.71



Methodfor the airy chocolate cream, heat the milk and glucose and dissolve the gelatine. pour the milk over the chopped chocolate to form a homogeneous mass and add the whipped cream. Stir well and leave to set in the fridge for one night. Mix tangerine purée and sugar and heat to 50 °C until all the sugar is dissolved. add the dissolved gelatine and cool to room temperature. heat the Debic panna Cotta, mix with the almond paste and yoghurt and store in the fridge. Brown the almonds in a frying pan, add salt and caramelise with the sugar.

Finishplace the glasses at an angle in an egg rack and fill them with the almond cream. freeze and divide the suspended jelly over the glasses. Whip the chocolate cream and divide over the glasses. finish off with the almond praline.

autumn aromasalmond panna cotta withtangerine jelly andairy chocolate cream

DeSSerT

31

The Debic Sauces range is made up of fi ve classic sauces. They will save you time, while also making an excellent point of departure for adding a personal touch. This issue presents fi ve recipes developed in combination with Debic Mushroom Cream Sauce.


500 ml Debic Mushroom Cream Sauce

100 ml vermouth

100 ml white wine

10 g morilles, dried

roast guinea fowl fi lletwith morille sauce

The con venience of the Debic Sauces

MethodSteep the morilles in tepid water for 30 minutes. reduce the white wineand cognac by half and add the Debic Mushroom Cream Sauce.pass the steeped juice of the morilles through a fi ne sieve and add to the sauce. Cook the sauce to the desired consistency and add the morilles.

The Debic Sauces range is made up of fi ve classic sauces. They will save you time, while also making an excellent point of departure for adding a personal touch. This issue

The con venience

Veal schnitzelwith Jäger sauce




100 ml white wine

250 g mushrooms

10 g parsley, leaf

MethodSlice the mushrooms.heat the Debic roast & fry and fry the mushrooms until golden.Quench with the white wine and reduce by half. add the Debic Mushroom Cream Sauce. finish the sauce with chopped parsley.

32 | Debic Magazine

Debic Sauces range



150 g roquefort

10 ml lemon juice

roast entrecôtewith roquefort sauce

Methodheat the Debic Mushroom Cream Sauce and add the roquefort. Season to tastewith lemon juice and pass through a fine sieve.




500 g risotto rice

50 g shallot, chopped

200 g cep mushrooms

250 ml white wine

risotto with cep mushroomsin mushroom cream sauce

Method heat the Debic roast & fry and sweat the shallots. add the rice and heat until the rice grains are transparent, pour on the wine and leave the rice to absorb the wine. add the Debic Mushroom Cream Sauce.Leave until the rice has absorbed the wine and the risotto is al dente. allow to cool. Slice the cep mushrooms into brunoise and sweat this in the Debic roast & fry. Before serving, heat the risotto by adding a dash of Debic Mushroom Cream Sauce and the brunoise of the cep mushroom.




100 ml white wine

50 ml cognac

250 g wild mushrooms

pork tenderloinwith wild mushroom sauce

Methodheat the Debic roast & fryand fry the wild mushrooms.Quench with the white wine andcognac and reduce by half. add theDebic Mushroom Cream Sauce.

33

What do a Mexican restaurant and a Belgian beer caféhave in common?

the organisation

although Debuut’s companies each have a very different setup, Debuut’s strength lies in the centralised and efficient approach. a central team of marketing, sales, facility and kitchen management specialists supports the individual catering companies in their activities. “it is the art of finding the middle way for a centralised approach, because Debuut is not a chain with one single format”, says edwin Spruyt, Debuut’s marketing manager. each format maintains its own individual character. That is our strength. how the company succeeds in achieving unity of policy, strategy and working methods becomes clear when we visit the kitchens of the various Debuut formats.

the secret weaponThe beating heart of Debuut is the central kitchen known as ‘Cooks for Cooks’. each year 170,000 kilos of products are produced and delivered to the various catering locations within the organisation. The preparation of the fresh salads, meat, fish and desserts takes place mainly in the kitchens at the individual locations. in the central kitchen, we have at our disposal state-of-the-art equipment, with which we can produce in great volumes”, says henk Vonk, chef at the central kitchen.

The Mexican restaurants and the Belgian beer cafés are a small example of the great diversityof catering formats offered by Debuut. The company manages in all 14 different catering formats in a total of 29 locations. How can you efficiently manage 14 totally different catering formatswithout the individual restaurant concepts losing their identity? We asked the people at the various departments and visited different catering formats to find out where their key to success lies.

34 | Debic Magazine

Interview

“ We are managing the efficiency and constant quality of a total of 29 different kitchens.”

everything is prepared in the traditional manner using fresh products. But since large volumes are produced, the costs are lower. The margins are far greater than if each location were to prepare its own recipes. it is above all a question of what are often labour-intensive recipes, from lobster bisque to chocolate mousse, from sauces to dressings. above all, we save a lot of time.” it is a highly efficient way of cooking. also because all the products are vacuum packed and provided with a bar code with the cost price and use-by date. “We know precisely what fresh ingredients are coming in and what then goes out and what the final result is.

Martien Bakker is the kitchen manager, the pivot of all of the company’s kitchens, and the initiator of the central kitchen. “i myself have worked for many years as a chef.i provide support for the Chefs at the 29 locations on various levels and look for where we can still improve, and where the work can be done more efficiently. profit margins in the kitchen are under great pressure due to rising food prices. The chef at each location is responsible for the margins and he can never lose sight of the business aspects.

Cross pollination Martien organises meetings a number of times a year. “These are intended for us to swap ideas and experiences, create new dishes, and for coaching.We try to give the chefs a number of tips designed to improve efficiency. The recipe folders supplied are therefore equipped with a detailed method including cost prices. all locations work with a fixed group of suppliers. This centralised approach contributes to a policy of competitive purchasing. for this reason, the chefs are very attentive to the margins. We leave as little as possible to chance and are dedicated to achieving the efficiency and constant quality of the 29 different kitchens. The same applies to the organisation of the central kitchen. in this way, Debuut’s kitchens contribute to a healthy and profitable organisation.”

35

Chilled is better!

Debic is launching its very fi rst range of ready-to-use sauces with a fresh taste: Hollandaise Sauce, Mushroom Cream Sauce, Creamy Pepper Sauce, Béarnaise Sauce, and Gratin Sauce. All 5 fl avours are prepared using only ingredients of the highest quality and the best part is, you can still give them your own twist. And to preserve the optimal freshness in taste and functionality, Debic sauces are only available in the chilled area.

Debic ready-to-use sauces fi lled with freshness are waiting for you in the chilled area.

NEW

Documents

Debic Horeca Magazine Autumn Winter 2011-2012