PANNONIA D E L I G H T F U L

A Vinophile&Culinary Tour

of Burgenland in Austria

VINARIA

PROJECT PART-FINANCED BY THE FEDERAL STATEOF AUSTRIA, THE PROVINCE BURGENLAND ANDTHE EUROPEAN REGIONAL DEVELOPMENT FUND.

ForewordThe mild climate, outstanding soils and skilled winegrowers of Burgenland have turned our region into theperfect place for the new culture of wine. A large number of enthusiastic young vintners are combining oldtraditions in a masterful manner with innovation and ultramodern know-how to produce wines of inter-national stature. At the same time, the high quality of those wines is also finding expression in modern buildings of often breathtakingly beautiful architecture. The cuisine of Burgenland is just as excellent as its wines, and outstanding, locally grown, natural products provide the basis for highly praised, authentic cuisine in the finest Pannonian tradition. Today the best recipes from the cookery books of the nativeGerman-, Croatian- and Hungarian-speaking populations are appearing on the menus of Burgenland’satmospheric winebars, cosy inns and award-winning restaurants. The present publication provides an informative overall view of the world of wine and winegrowers in Burgenland along with excellent culinary tips that make the province well worth a visit. Burgenland offers natural landscapes that are unique in Europe along with outstanding cultural events, providing wine-loving visitors with countless possibilities for discovering and becoming acquainted with Burgenland in all its beauty. I wish all the bonsvivants, friends and guests of Burgenland holding this publication in their hands an enjoyable, exciting read as well as an equally exciting and pleasurable voyage of discovery to our wonderful land in the sun.

Mario Baier | Director, Burgenland Tourist Board

Land of DiversityWhen it comes to wine, Austria’s youngest federal province is one of the country’smost important. Many wine-lovers and experts call Burgenland the land of diversity,and we believe with good reason. The palette of the province’s wines ranges from fruity,minerally white wines to powerful, expressive reds to very special sweet wines.Friends of sparkling wines will also find them in outstanding quality in Burgenland.There are many reasons for the incomparable diversity of the wines of Burgenland:the province has been shaped by everything from the terroir to the structure of thewine estates, from the technological expertise of the winegrowers to the influenceof historical developments. This is a “wine-land” that offers not only an unbelievablevariety of different styles but that also offers them – and for us this is the decisivepoint – in very high quality. This is a reflection primarily of the men and women whomake them. Many winemakers have invested in ultramodern wine-cellars that are

also architecturally impressive, and they are purposefully continuing the development of high-quality winesthat started in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Austria’s winegrowers receive excellent training, and many ofthem also have international professional experience. In the vineyard they focus on the soil and microclimatein selecting an ideal combination of earth, exposure and grape variety, placing a special emphasis on indige-nous varietals. The wines of Burgenland are part of the provincial lifestyle and are the perfect accompani-ment to Austrian cuisine. Together with the wide range of activities available to tourists, they are just oneof many reasons for visitors to become better acquainted with Burgenland.

Christian Zechmeister (l.), | Managing Director of Wein BurgenlandAndreas Liegenfeld (r.), | Chairman of Wein Burgenland

Symbiosis of Tradition and ModernityThe wide variety of Burgenland’s landscapes and cultures finds its logical expression in the diversity of its wines.Much has been accomplished in the past 25 years: Burgenland has changed from a wine region marked by tradition to one that is future-oriented in an exemplary manner. Wine-loving visitors will find this symbiosis ofancient customs and modernity everywhere they look: in the varietals grown, such as Blaufränkisch, as well asin the styles, such as Ruster Ausbruch. The wide variety of those styles and the reactivation of historical vine-yards, such as Joiser Berg, are an indication of the kind of modern, world-class wines that are now being pro-duced. It is simply unbelievable what the winegrowers of Burgenland are now doing with a Pinot Noir that isunmistakeably Austrian. And equally unbelievable is just how complex and full-bodied their white-wine blendshave become. Burgenland’s sweet vintages have meanwhile earned themselves a global reputation, and thehigh-quality vineyards producing them are found here in a density unheard of elsewhere in the world. Thepalette of varieties is also extremely diverse, ranging from Welschriesling to the aromatic varietals Sämling,Traminer and Muscat. Traditional vintner’s houses alternate with highly demanding, futuristic architecture. All inall, it’s no wonder that New York’s star sommelier Aldo Sohm raves about these wines in his VINARIA interview.But that’s not all that makes a journey to discover the wines of Burgenland so wonderful: there’s also thewarmth and kindness of the people and the wonderfully fine food of their inns and restaurants.

Peter Schleimer | Editor-in-chief, VINARIA

FOREWORD

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Truly the Heart of EuropeHow to Get There

Burgenland is certainly one of Austria’s most

tempting destinations. As the republic’s

easternmost province it is the connecting link

between the Austrian Alps and the lowland

plains of Hungary and offers a wide variety

of different landscapes: from mountains to

wooded hills to flatlands with the famous

steppe lake known in English as Lake

Neusiedl.

Easy to reach from any direction, Austria’s

sunniest province has a wealth of cultural,

natural and leisure activities to offer and

is especially popular with bons viveurs,

gourmets and friends of fine wine.

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Wine Regions of Burgenland

CONTENTS

PANNONIA | 5

6 Paradise in PannoniaBurgenland is a truly multifaceted holidayparadise.

14 Pannonia’s Winegrowing Regions

24 Burgenland’s VarietiesAn introduction to the province’s most prominent grape varieties.

28 DACOrigin Really Matters: A Portrait of the Three Burgenland DACs.

32 Sweet DelightsThe world-class wines that are Burgenland’s“Pannonian Gold”.

34 Vintners’ AssociationsSatisfaction is guaranteed when wine-growers make an organized commitment to quality and tradition.

36 Interview with Aldo SohmNew York’s star sommelier talks about the

wines that are making Burgenland famous.

38 Wine & ArchitectureRemarkable new and remodelled venues forenjoying the wines of Burgenland.

48 Burgenland’s Wine ShopsWho can resist the combination of a comprehensive stock of fine wines and a stylish ambience?

50 Pannonian LivingStress-free holidays offer a chance to focuson yourself, the natural beauty that sur-rounds you and the pleasures of the region.

52 A Holiday on a Wine EstateLiving with wine and gaining new insightsinto a winegrower’s world.

54 Best of BurgenlandThe finest regional hotels, with quality guaranteed by a mark of excellence.

56 Pannonian CuisineInternational delicacies and local specialitiesare wonderful with the wines of Burgenland.

62 Luscious Lamb and Tasty TomatoesBurgenland is keeping its unique culinary traditions alive.

64 Your Own Piece of Paradise

66 Masthead and Addresses

50Wine’s WisdomWhether you’re descend-

ing into a pleasantly

cool wine cellar for an

enjoyable wine-tasting

session or simply strol-

ling through the vine-

yards, a holiday on a

wine estate is a pleasure

of a very special kind.

56Wining & DiningThe cuisine of Burgen-

land is alive and well

like never before. Some

of the country’s top

restaurants now feature

Pannonian delicacies

with an international

flair. Of course, they

don’t neglect the pro-

vince’s heartier

cuisine either, which

goes fabulously with

the finest wines

of Burgenland. Phot

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38 Form Follows FunctionHandsome architecture can powerfully influence one’s

enjoyment of wine. Burgenland’s winegrowers are

leaders when it comes to combining wine and archi-

tecture and have been remarkably successful in both

architectural design and the fruit of the wine.

6 Paradise in PannoniaA sunny eldorado with a steppe lake, the home of idyllic

natural landscapes and impressive cultural treasures, a

melting pot of peoples and religions as well as the origin

of great wines and culinary specialities: Burgenland is a

multifaceted holiday paradise.

14 Many Areas, Many CharactersBurgenland thrives on its geographic and climatic

diversity. With four distinct winegrowing areas the

province offers a varied viticultural landscape featuring

everything from outstanding dry white wines to

powerful reds to sweet vintages with an international

reputation.

CONTENTS

Where are we here? Africa?Asia? Europe? Lapwingsfill the skies above thebroad, flat landscape, the

males chattering raucously as they dartback and forth before suddenly plungingvertically towards the ground. Two storksflap their wings at a leisurely pace as theyhead towards the lake, gazing enviouslyat a spoonbill catching a frog with thesame amazing dexterity as his counter-part in the Okavango delta of Botswana.The silt sandpipers and redshanks stalkindustriously along the muddy shore,while in the dense undergrowth a greatwhite egret is waiting patiently for hisprey, much like his cousin, the purpleheron of central Kazakhstan. In the pad-dock two young Przewalski stallions areengaged in a trial of strength. Soon theywill be returned for release in their native Mongolia. A short distance away,woolly Mangalitsa pigs are pleasurablywallowing in the mud, while the Hungar-ian grey cattle wave their mighty hornsas they move to the next grassy meadow,not unlike their relatives along the Ngorongoro Crater of Tanzania. They arewatched carefully by ground squirrelsthat have emerged from their under-ground burrows and now stand on theirhind legs like meerkats in the Namib desert of southwestern Africa. Along the horizon behind the lake rises amountain range where the snow lingersuntil June, looking much like the TienShan range of Central Asia.

No other region in Central Europe offers as many contrasts and differencesin such a small area as Burgenland. Here,where the foothills of the Alps flow intothe great steppes of the Eastern Europeanplains, it is not just the fauna thatseems to unite aspects of almost everyother geographic area. Burgenland isalso a mixture of various cultures, religions, traditions, costumes, songs, recipes and plants from throughoutEurope and beyond. And it unites themin an extremely peaceful and fruitfulmanner. In a region of such openness,hospitality is not something peopleonly pay lip-service to; they convinc-ingly put it into practice every day.

LAND OF PLEASURE

PANNONIA | 7

annonia

� Sunset at Lake Neusieldl: A harmonyof colour, warmth and gentle breezes.Ph

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Paradise in PaA STEPPE LAKE BATHED IN SUN-

LIGHT (300 days a year), nature and

culture in a perfect European sym-

biosis, world-class wines and people

to whom hospitality is a matter of

the heart: Burgenland has become

a multifaceted holiday paradise.

watchers from around the world. Thewell-spaced observation towers and hidesprovide the perfect place for observingsome 300 different species.

The lake also serves as a source ofwarmth for the vineyards and vegetablefields along its shores. Arable crops andfruit come quickly to maturity thanks tothe many hours of sunlight andtemperatures that remain comfortableeven in the late autumn. The areaaround the lake has always been a pleas-ant place to live. The legendary Esterházydynasty built magnificent Baroque pal-aces nearby, and they are just as splen-

did today. The unique combination ofnatural beauty and cultural achieve-ments led UNESCO in 2001 to add thearea to its World Heritage List.

Between the hilly landscape of Rosaliaand the Geschriebenstein Natural Park,central Burgenland is home to some ofthe finest red-wine vineyards in Austria,if not in Europe. The south is marked bythe fluvial landscapes of the Lafnitz andthe Pinka rivers, with hills, forests, smallvineyards and extensive orchards whereapples, pears, apricots and plums flour-ish, supplying the raw materials for Aus-tria’s finest distillates. There are six large

natural parks in the province, LakeNeusiedl-Leitha Mountains, Rosalia-Kogelberg, Landseer Berge, Geschrie-benstein-Írott-kö, Wine Idyll and theRaab-Örség-Goricko Three-CountryPark (Austria-Hungary-Slovenia).

Diversity of Culture and Nature

Burgenland’s culture is just as diverseas its natural beauty. The composer Joseph Haydn lived and worked in Eisen-stadt for almost 40 years, making whatis now the provincial capital a musicalcentre in his day. Today the world’s finestperformers of Haydn’s works appear annually from May to October in the original venues, among them the magnificent hall in Esterházy Palace.Named after the composer, it is one ofthe finest concert halls in the world.Haydn’s motto is just as valid today aswhen he first uttered it more than 200 years ago: “My language is understoodthroughout the world.”

Another genius of music history ishonoured in the small town of Raiding:the virtuoso pianist and composer FranzLiszt. A purpose-built musical centrenext to the house where he was born hasbecome a venue for high-calibre con-certs, including those of the LisztomaniaFestival in 2011 marking the 200th anni-versary of the composer’s birth.

But that’s not all: Mörbisch has become a musical mecca where classi-cal operettas are staged every summeron a giant stage on the shore of LakeNeusiedl. Some 200,000 visitors a yearare evidence enough that operetta as anart form is alive and well. Only a few kilometres away and within shootingdistance of Lake Neusiedl is the St. Mar-garethen Opera Festival, Europe’s third-

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� Güssing Castle: The fortress has been

turned into a theatre stage on top of

an extinct volcano.

� Endless skies: The perfect setting

for migratory birds – and fast horses.

� Colourful landscape: A third of the

province is under a nature-protection

order.

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Small is Truly BeautifulBurgenland is Austria’s easternmost

province and the perfect antithesis to thecountry’s Alpine regions with their ski-runs and cross-country trails. Burgen-land extends from north to south alongthe country’s eastern border, and withan area of 4000 square kilometres it isabout the size of the US state of RhodeIsland or the English county of Somer-set. From the northernmost point whereit meets Slovakia to the southernmost tipbordering on Slovenia, Burgenland runsfor some 170 kilometres along the Hun-garian border and is essentially thewestern part of what was once the Romanprovince of Pannonia. While the size ofBurgenland may not be impressive, thecontent certainly is.

It is a land of wide plains, idyllic vine-yards and the hilly landscapes around

Lake Neusiedl (a paradise for water-sports enthusiasts and a unique naturereserve) as well as mighty castles andsplendid palaces. Three hundred days ofsunshine a year provide excellent growing conditions for the finest naturalproducts. Deep underground are Austria’s richest mineral-water reserves,but Burgenland is also a region of thermal springs of hot, healing watersthat promote health and wellbeing.One third of the province is under a nature-protection order, providing ideal conditions for a holiday in harmonywith the great outdoors. A network of2500 kilometres of cycle paths and 1300km of equestrian trails along with threegolf courses offers sports fans a high level of enjoyment. The province’scolourful cultural scene draws on therich traditions of Burgenland’s ethnic

groups, which once inspired the musicof Joseph Haydn and Franz Liszt.

In the north, around Lake Neusiedl,Burgenland benefits from a gentle microclimate influenced by the largeststeppe lake in Central Europe. Long, hotsummers and winters with little snowprovide ideal conditions for the manyspecies of birds and for viticulture toflourish. The migratory birds thrive inthis watery environment; the lake remains free of ice until well into late autumn and thaws early in the year. LakeNeusiedl is a crossroads for migratorybirds from Africa that spend the summerhere and Nordic nesting birds thatspend the winter. In the spring, whenour feathered friends from the Atlanticmeet the last winter refugees from theeast, the National Park Neusiedler See-Seewinkel becomes a paradise for bird-

8 | PANNONIA

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first Christian chapels and classicalcountry mansions with generous bathsthat indicate the immense wealth of these Mediterranean colonists. Theywere followed by the Huns and the Avarsfrom the east, the Germanic tribes fromthe north, the Magyars from Asia and theFranks from the west. Burgenland hasbeen the boundary between Austriaand Hungary since the turn of the firstmillennium. Bavarian settlers werejoined by Hungarian aristocrats, and inthe fifteenth century Croats fleeing fromthe Turks moved here. Then came Jewsfrom Austria and Roma from Hungary.This colourful mixture of peoples is

combined with a unique variety of reli-gions: Catholic, Protestants following theteachings of Luther and Calvin, and thelast remnants of Jewish communitiesthat once flourished here.

Burgenland thrives on the diversityand tolerance of its population, whichhas repeatedly demonstrated its pen-chant for hospitality over the centuriesand down to the present day. In his legendary novel The Bridge at Andau

James Michener created a monument to

the generosity of the people of Burgen-land in his description of the Hungarianuprising of 1956, which saw hundreds ofthousands of refugees fleeing to the westto escape the Red Army.

The people of Burgenland openedtheir homes in the same manner againin 1989, when the first refugees fled viaHungary from East to West Germany.The movement that began with only afew hundred people crossing the Hun-garian border at Mörbisch in August1989 ended on 9 November of that yearin Germany’s once and future capital,when the Berlin Wall came down onceand for all.

Recreation for Body and Spirit Today’s visitors are still received with

open arms and a welcoming smile. And in a sense, they are also refugees –fleeing from the hectic pace of daily life.Burgenland welcomes them, offeringthem rest, relaxation and a wide range ofenjoyable activities. Cycling, for example:the 2500 kilometres of cycle paths per-haps do not offer the thrills that moun-tain bikers are seeking, but they are an excellent choice for those looking for anatural cycling experience in style. TheB10 Lake Neusiedl Cycle Path featureseleven modern rest areas for getting a bitof pleasant relaxation along the way. “Rollon” is the motto of the Rolling Area Lutz-mannsburg, where skaters “roll” along 45kilometres of skating paths.

With dozens of riding stables, riders’inns and farmhouses as well as an exten-sive network of bridle paths, Burgenlandis one of the largest and most attractiveequestrian regions in Austria. “GPS Riding” is an innovative idea that hasbeen introduced for equestrians through-out the province. The GPS devices areprovided free of charge to riders at spe-cial supply points. Another sporty andentertaining way to explore the idylliclandscape of central Burgenland is todrive a rail trolley down an abandonedrailway line. And in Bad Tatzmannsdorf,joggers and Nordic walkers can look for-ward to Austria’s unique 420-kilometre-

LAND OF PLEASURE

PANNONIA | 11

� Classical beauty: The violinist Lidia

Baich at Esterházy Palace. The Haydn

Hall is a venue for concerts all year

round. Traditional proficiency: Flag-

swingers at Neckenmarkt celebrate a

local rite.

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largest open-air festival. The hugenatural stage of 7000 square metres isflanked by the monumental sandstonewalls of the former Roman quarry,which provides a magnificent setting forgrandiose operatic performances. TheKobersdorf Castle Festival offerssummer theatre in the finest tradition inits enchanting arcaded courtyard. TheGüssing Cultural Summer guarantees acheerful, entertaining evening of theatre in a mighty fortress built on anextinct volcano. Eduard and JohannesKutrowatz offer musical highlights eachyear at their spring Klangfrühling Festival at Schlaining Castle, while

“J:opera Jennersdorf” in the southern-most part of Burgenland features exquisite open-air operatic perfor-mances at Tabor Palace.

The world-famous music festivals inWiesen offer performances by some ofthe leading names from the world ofjazz, rock and pop, and in July and August young medieval fans (and theirparents) are invited to “Fantastic BurgForchtenstein”, a spectacle taken straightfrom the middle ages and staged in amighty fortress, where spectators seehistory come alive. This colourful kalei-doscope of cultural events is rounded offby exhibitions in the Baroque jewel of

Halbturn Palace, where Empress MariaTheresa once lived, at Kittsee Palace andat Forchtenstein Fortress. In addition theprovince is home to many art galleriesand museums.

Burgenland’s many and varied cul-tural offerings are closely tied to the pro-vince’s turbulent history. A brief list ofthe various peoples who have livedhere reads like a “Who’s Who” of the last2000 years. The first known inhabitantswere the Celts in about 700 BC. From thetime of Christ until around 400 AD theRomans lived in their province of Pannonia in what is now Burgenland.They made wine in style and built the

10 | PANNONIA

role in this Austrian province, which hasthe greatest density of award-winningrestaurants in the country, and the wines served by local sommeliers areperhaps the finest in Central Europe. Theregion’s world-class wines range fromthe distinctive varietal Blaufränkisch to the liquid gold of the incomparableTrockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein.

Burgenland has a long tradition of viticulture. Zagersdorf near Eisenstadt isprobably Austria’s oldest wine village. Ata burial mound of the Hallstatt period(ca. 700 BC), three seed fragments foundin a bowl have been identified as Vitis

vinifera, the world’s principal wine-producing plant. Thus wine has beenproduced in Burgenland for millenniaand was also being exported at an early date.

A rapid increase in viticultural qualityset in around 1986 and has not lost itsmomentum since. Many winegrowershave undergone extensive, high-qualitytraining, which has often included internships at first-rate wine estates abroad. The know-how and vision thusacquired have brought about great quality improvements over the decades.In recent years, intensive research intosoils, climate and varieties has greatlybenefited the region’s autonomy and authenticity.

Burgenland is divided into four wine-growing areas – Neusiedlersee, Neusied-lersee-Hügelland, Mittelburgenland andSüdburgenland – all of which boast out-standing and diverse terroirs. The soilsrange from light sandy earth to gravel,black-earth and loess soils to heavy loamand clay, sometimes with considerablecalcium or iron content. In some areasthere is also primitive rock soil with crystalline gneiss and shale. Whetherwe’re talking about nature or culture,Burgenland simply excels.The wines ofBurgenland are based on the province’sincredible diversity, and the people ofBurgenland know how to take this diver-sity and use it to the benefit of them-selves and their visitors.�

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� Golden greens: The many golf courses blend in with the gentle landscape.

Relaxing waters: Burgenland’s spas offer soothing relaxation.

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long Jogging & Walking Arena with 280kilometres of walking and hiking pathsas well as 138 kilometres of runningtrails. The steady winds of Lake Neusiedlare welcome to enthusiastic sailors andsurfers. The international surfing eliteshows up every spring for the WindsurfWorld Cup, and the Summer Opening inPodersdorf officially launches the Pan-nonian surfing summer.

Golfers have a number of complexesavailable: the one in Donnerskirchen extends to within shooting distance ofLake Neusiedl. Austria’s biggest golfingcomplex at Lafnitztal (with 45 holes inall) will meet every semi-professional ex-pectation and also provides a golf schoolfor children and an adventure forest. Insouthern Burgenland, the modern 27-hole course at Loipersdorf is especially

attractive with its setting in an idyllicmeadow landscape. The Golf Academyat the Bad Tatzmannsdorf Golf & Coun-try Club features the skilled teaching of David Leadbetter, who many believe tobe the best golf instructor in the world.

A typical feature of Burgenland is thecombination of athletic activities and relaxation at one of its excellent thermalspas. In addition to the facilities in thesouth in the area of Bad Tatzmannsdorfand Stegersbach as well as in Lutz-mannsburg, a new resort opened in thenorth in 2009. It offers the same combi-nation with the added attraction of a natural experience. St. Martin’s Lodge inFrauenkirchen is an expression of a com-pletely new concept in ecotourism. Theresort offers daily expeditions with out-standing biologists and zoologists into

the wilderness area of Seewinkel. The response has been so great that the resort has been constantly expanding itever since the lodge opened.

World-Class Wines St. Martin’s Lodge is proof positive that

the pleasures of nature and the sensesgo hand in hand in Burgenland. The finesthotels and restaurants focus on using thebest local ingredients. Not far from St.Martin’s Lodge a farmer grows more thana thousand different varieties of toma-toes from which he makes sugo, pesto,jam and chutney. Local fish from LakeNeusiedl, such as pike and carp, alongwith Hungarian grey cattle, Scottishbeef cattle and Mangalitsa pigs are turned into wonderful delicacies.

Culinary traditions play an important

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WINE REGIONS

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Blessed with a sunny, warm climate and fertile, mineral-rich soils, Burgenland has a fas-cinating diversity of beautiful

winegrowing landscapes that produce awide range of different wines. To the eastof Lake Neusiedl, with its waves gentlylapping against the shores, lies the levelarea of Seewinkel. Noted for its sandysoils and unique flora and fauna, it produces top-quality wines that enjoy aworldwide reputation. Seewinkel andthe slightly higher Parndorf Plate to thenorth, which produces red wines full of character as well as powerful whites,comprise the winegrowing area Neu-siedlersee (named for Lake Neusiedl).

To the west of the shallow lake the vine-yards spread along the belt of reeds nearthe shore and extend onto the slopes ofthe surrounding mountains and rises,including the Leitha Mountains and thehills of Jois and Rust. From this diverselandscape comes a trilogy of wines:

weighty whites, robust reds and highlystructured sweet wines. Central Burgen-land (Mittelburgenland) is dotted withcastles and palaces and has four wine-growing centres at Deutschkreutz, Horitschon, Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt. The focus here is on theclassic red-wine varietal Blaufränkisch.This is not surprising, given the heavyclayey soils that predominate in this hilly area bordered by the Sopron andKöszeg Mountains.

It is ideal for growing red-wine grapes.In idyllic southern Burgenland (Südbur-genland) with its landscapes of forestsand meadows lie vineyards slopingdown towards the Hungarian plain.They bear such famous names as Eisen-berg and Rechnitzer Berg. By far thesmallest area with its own appellation inBurgenland, it is known for red winesthat are of pronounced minerality andcompactness as well as vivacious whites.�

� The outstanding wines from Burgenland’s various denominated origins come

in a remarkable variety, ranging from elegant, full-bodied whites to velvety reds,

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BURGENLAND:T HE WINE LANDForward-Looking and Rich in Tradition

WINE REGIONS

PANNONIA | 17

and Nature

real Seewinkel begins on a line south ofGols and Frauenkirchen. Its western bor-der is Lake Neusiedl, while it is delimitedby the Hungarian border and the Han-ság Canal in the south and east, respec-tively. Kilometres of vineyards, onlyinfrequently interrupted by other crops,give the impression of a monoculture,which is rare in the winegrowing regionsof Austria in general and Burgenland inparticular. Together with the salt pondsin Lake Neusiedl Nature Park these vineyards at first seem somewhat mel-ancholy, but at second glance the scen-ery is stunning and serene. Botrytis rotregularly occurs in two out of threeyears but sometimes not until relativelylate. It is essential for the production ofthe much sought-after sweet winesfrom Auslese to Trockenbeerenauslese. A relatively novel development is theproduction of so-called Schilf (“reed”) orStroh (“straw”) wines: grapes free of noblerot are dried on reeds or straw until thenecessary concentration of sugar is reached. Here the hand of man replacesthe hand of nature (freezing tempera-ture) that leads to Eiswein (“ice wine”).The mecca for the production of high-grade dessert wines is the area aroundIllmitz, Apetlon and Podersdorf. All in all,the large water surface of Lake Neusiedlshapes the microclimatic conditions of the area, evening out temperatures on the one hand while supplying a highlevel of humidity on the other.

The Neusiedlersee region does not,however, only consist of flat land. There are also the slopes of the so-called Wagram of the Parndorf Plate,

a ridge between Neusiedl am See, Golsand Mönchhof. Compared with the richblack soil of the Seewinkel, the area boasts a differentiated soil structure thatis shaped by loamy and sandy drifts.Here grow the most distinguished redwines as well as fruity white ones. Onthese slopes are found vineyards withsuch sonorous names as Altenberg, Ungerberg, Salzberg and Gabarinza,which produce some of the best Austrianred wines year after year. The actualParndorf Plate is a rather unspectacular“wine plain”. Slightly undulating at best,it consists of sandy as well as gravelly bedrock. By and large it produces lightwhite wines and fruity, quite animatingred ones.

The vineyards along the foot of theLeitha Mountains, at the north shore ofLake Neusiedl, have experienced a cer-tain boom in recent years. They belongto the towns of Winden and Jois, which– surprisingly – are part of theNeusiedlersee region proper rather thanthe Neusiedlersee-Hügelland region although – topographically speaking –the latter would make more sense.

Over the past years, many top wine-growing estates, such as Josef Umathumand Schlossweingut Halbturn, have recognized the high potential of the vineyards in this microcosm rich in shale and limestone soils. They eitherhave acquired existing vineyards here orhave planted red-wine vines. This is oneof the most promising areas for the development of first-rate red wines andcertainly one that we’ll be hearing aboutagain.�

� Idyllic Lake

Holiday paradise for sun-worshippers and swimming fans: Lake Neusiedl.

� Lake Panorama:

Lake Neusiedl regulates the climate in the lakeside vineyards.

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Neusiedlersee

Neusiedlersee

A Paradise of Wine

With almost 8000 hectaresof vineyards, the wineregion Neusiedlersee(named after Lake Neu-

siedl) is Austria’s second-largest wine-growing area. Until the 1990s, about 80per cent was used for white-wine pro-duction, of which only a fraction was dedicated to high-quality bottled wines.Nowadays, the share of white-wine pro-duction is only 60 per cent. Clearly,winegrowers and consumers alike areplacing great hopes in the region’s red-wine resources. Burgenland’s significanceas a major centre of dessert-wineproduction is beyond dispute anyway,and this is unlikely to change in the fore-seeable future.

While up until recently the wine-growing regions of Lake Neusiedl andSeewinkel were generally considered interchangeable, on careful examinationsuch simplification is not really justified.There is widespread agreement that the

WINE REGIONS

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from the best locations in the LeithaMountains enjoy a legendary reputa-tion, not only among Austrian wine-lovers but throughout the wine world.They combine fruit brilliance and den-sity without becoming overpoweringlyopulent and have a sensitive structureand a certain mineral touch. The whitewines from the Leitha Mountains arealso nothing to be scoffed at; they com-bine attractive richness with crisp, fruityacidity. Here the vines of the Burgundyfamily, but also, for example, SauvignonBlanc, are highly successful. The vine-yards around Donnerskirchen seem to

have become an enclave for Grüner Velt-liner and Riesling. The winegrowingtowns around Eisenstadt – Donnerskir-chen, Purbach and St. Margarethen –produce spicy and elegant Blaufrän-kisch and red-wine blends that tastequite different from their “competitors”from Rust and Mörbisch, which are located somewhere in the middle of thetaste scale.�

Lake Neusiedl, we come to the above-mentioned Leitha Mountain region tothe north, which rises to an altitude of370 metres and is composed of highlycarbonate sediments. Strung out likepearls along this chain are such sono-rous-sounding winegrowing villagesand towns as Grosshöflein, Kleinhöflein,Eisenstadt, St. Georgen, Breitenbrunn,Donnerskirchen and Purbach. Thetowns of Winden and Jois, which are alsosituated at the foot of the Leitha Moun-tains, have – for political reasons –been designated part of the winegrowingregion Lake Neusiedl. The red wines

� The impressive slopes of the Leitha

Mountains produce great wines and

have given their name to the new

Hügelland (“hill country”) DAC.

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Leithaberg DAC/Neusiedlersee-

Hügelland

18 | PANNONIA

Leithaberg DAC/Neusiedlersee-Hügelland

Wine-Lover s Trilogy

The traditional winegrowingtowns on the western shore ofLake Neusiedl and around theprovincial capital, Eisenstadt,

are the most important productioncentres of the Hügelland (“hill country”)winegrowing region, which makes afairly uniform impression. The charac-ter of its wines is essentially shaped bytwo factors: firstly, by the prominent, almost 30-kilometre-long ridge of theLeitha Mountains, which continues tothe south in the Ruster Hügelland, andsecondly, by Lake Neusiedl, the largeststeppe lake in central Europe. The enor-mous quantity of water stores the sun’swarmth and provides high humidity. TheLeitha Mountains and Ruster Hügellandshield the winegrowing region fromharsh weather from the west and thenorth but leave it susceptible to Pan-nonian climatic influences from the eastand south. Characteristic of this regionare low levels of precipitation, hot sum-mers and long, mild autumn days. Evenalmond and fig trees thrive in these almost Mediterranean conditions.

In a sense, this blessed microclimateculminates in the free-town of Rust. Onlyabout half an hour by car from the south-ern edge of Vienna, the area stands onthree supporting pillars with respect towine. Firstly, the supple and voluminouswhite wines, which have been unjustlyneglected in recent years but which remain harmonious even in years thatelsewhere are said to be difficult because they produce wines of high acid-ity. Such was the case between 2004 and2008, for example. Secondly, the power-ful red wines of Burgenland continue tobe in high demand, and, finally, there isthe small but excellent range of sweet

wines from the area. Ruster Ausbruch isthe region’s natural highlight and helpedthe citizens of Rust secure their towncharter from Emperor Leopold I in1681. Even today, the relatively rareRuster Ausbruch wines – made mostlyfrom one of the white Pinot grapes butalso from such rarer varieties as Muscatand Furmint – are among the mostsought-after sweet treats from Austria.Let’s tarry a bit longer in the environs ofthe exceptionally picturesque town ofRust, the entire core of which has beendeclared a World Heritage Site, andponder on the neighbouring towns of

Oggau and Mörbisch as well. They arequite similar in soil structure and micro-climate and as a result produce just aswell-balanced vines in their vineyards asdoes Rust. The topsoil is dominated bymore or less calcareous layers, which canchange to loess or brown earth soils atthe foot of the slope and near the lake.Here and there, there is topsoil of weathered shale (for instance aroundthe area of Schützen am Gebirge at the northern edge of this area), which resultsin temperamental and energetic winesin a category and style of their own.

Leaving the southwestern corner of

genland. This group may be consideredto be a trendsetter in the growing appre-ciation of native varieties. Today, morethan 55 per cent of the vineyards areplanted with Blaufränkisch vines, a logicalresult of the 2005 declaration proclaim-ing this to be the first Austrian red-wineDAC. The fine reputation of Burgen-land’s red wines – especially the varie-tal Blaufränkisch and the blends on aBlaufränkisch basis – has been estab-lished and promoted primarily by twodriving forces: firstly, by the pioneeringvision of strategists like Hans Igler, Engelbert Gesellmann and Anton Iby,and secondly, by the two powerful co-operatives of growers in Horitschonand Neckenmarkt, which were in aposition to provide Blaufränkisch winesin large quantities of high-quality.

All in all, “Blaufränkisch Country” isa fairly uniform winegrowing region, andyet there are some features that deservespecial attention. Year after year, the relatively steep vineyards of the Necken-markter Hochberg, some of which facedue south and have weathered shale atthe top, produce grapes with a particu-larly high sugar content. Especiallyheavy soils of mostly clay and marl characterize the gently hilly wine areaaround Horitschon, which limits the vineyards mentioned on its labels toHochäcker, Kirchholz, Dürrau and Gfanger. They produce an especially intense Blaufränkisch wine with dis-tinctive, peppery-cinnamon flavoursand a dense body.

The third noteworthy sub-region con-sists of the best vineyards of Deutsch-kreutz, including Goldberg, Hochberg,Siglos and Fabian. Their medium soilstructure produces especially elegant

WINE REGIONS

PANNONIA | 21

ry

and supple wines. Finally of note is thewinegrowing enclave on the high plateau of Lutzmannsburg farther to thesouth. Its deep and weathered loamysoils yield red wines that are full of character and sometimes even of earthyunconventionality. These wines bear acertain resemblance to the wines ofsouthern Burgenland.

The first Austrian red-wine appella-tion, Mittelburgenland, was created forthe central Burgenland beginning withthe 2005 vintage: a standard line that

should be consumed when still young isknown as “Classic”. The middle categorymust specify the vineyard on the label.The more powerful red wines are agedfor at least part of their development innew oak barrels and are known underthe name “Mittelburgenland ReserveDAC”. Each member of the so-called Vitikult Group produces a medium-strength Blaufränkisch wine labelled as“Vitikult” that is best consumed whenstill young and is also subject to a price limit.�

� The dominant variety in the sea of grapes of central Burgenland is the

traditional red-wine varietal Blaufränkisch.

� Cycling in central Burgenland: The region is crisscrossed by many inviting

cycle paths through its vineyards.

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Mittelburgenland DAC

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Mittelburgenland DAC

Blaufränkisch Count

In the region Mittelburgenland (cen-tral Burgenland) the sovereign reignof the red-wine vines is unbroken,and their share has increased year

after year since the end of World War II.The only notable exceptions to this ruleare oaky Chardonnays and rare sweet wines. At an early date in history, theconsistently deep, weathered and some-times even extremely heavy soils at the

foot of the Sopron Mountains, also called Brennberg Hill Country, wererecognized as an ideal basis for culti-vating Blaufränkisch & Company. Thearea is favoured climatically: while it isopen to the warm Pannonian influencesof the east, it is shielded from the roughcontinental climate by the SopronMountains to the north, the GünserHighlands to the south and the Bucklige

Welt to the west. Lake Neusiedl is a mere10-kilometres away from Deutschkreutzand has a certain regulatory effect on themicroclimate.

The winegrowers of Mittelburgen-land are very proud of their red winesand especially of their darling, Blaufrän-kisch. They were showing their coloursas early as 1989, when they founded theBlaufränkisch Association of Mittelbur- Ph

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uth

cannot be produced in large quantitiesand will therefore always be sought after, but the best-known names are bynow well-established in specialist shopsand wine stores. Thus, strictly speaking,the exceedingly commendable trip tothe hill country of southern Burgenlandis no longer necessary in order to ensurean appropriate supply of these spiritedwines. Finally, in the very south of the region, near Heiligenbrunn, is the homeof the Uhudler. It is pressed from the grape variety Vitis labrusca, a native of

North America that thus does not re-quire grafting. By the way, Uhudler is alsoa generic term for colourful, ungrafted wines from vines with such onomato-poetic names as Noah, Othello, Isabella,Clinton and the like. It can be consumed in its original form as Sturm

(the Austrian term for fermenting grape-must with a moderate alcohol level) or as sparkling wine in the form of “Uhudler-Frizzante” or “Uhudler -Sekt”,which makes for a pleasantly tangy, summer refreshment.�

� Vineyards at Eisenberg, which has

one of the best soils for the up-and-

coming viticulture of southern

Burgenland.

� Typical of southern Burgenland

are the picturesque Kellerstöckl, the

lovingly restored wine cellars that are

now used as charming holiday homes

(left).

Eisenberg DAC/Südburgenland

22 | PANNONIA

Eisenberg DAC/Südburgenland

Wine Idyll of the So

The second-smallest Austrianwinegrowing region after West-steiermark (Western Styria),this narrow winegrowing

region is small but excellent, and due toits bucolic landscape, it is rightly adver-tised as a “wine idyll”. The influences ofthe continental climate are more evidenthere than in the rest of Burgenland, asseen in a higher quantity of rainfall. ThePannonian influence from the Hungar-ian Plain in the southeast, however, isalso a factor that should not be under-estimated. Even though red and white vines are produced in roughly equalquantities, Südburgenland is mostly famous for its reds. Long-establishedclans, such as the Krutzler, Körper-Faulhammer and Wachter-Wiesler fami-lies along with such up-and-coming vintners as Uwe Schiefer, Alfred Weberand Vinum Ferreum, embody tested traditions and new optimism. Some ofthe best and most famous Austrian redwines – made mainly from the dominantgrape variety, Blaufränkisch – currentlycome from this wine idyll, an area that for

a long time seemed like a sleepy region.Although Südburgenland is generally

relatively heterogeneous, there are threesmall winegrowing areas that are worthsingling out. In the area of the region’smain town, Rechnitz, the vineyards immediately south of the highest peakof Burgenland, which at 884 metres alti-tude is rightly called a small mountain,do not grow much red wine, focussingrather on Welschriesling and PinotBlanc. The latter are comparable to theircounterparts in southeast Styria in theiranimated nature and crisp, fruity acidity.The single most important area is locatedright in the middle of southern Burgenland, where the elevations Eisen-berg, Deutsch-Schützner Weinberg andCsaterberg provide excellent prerequi-sites for remarkable red wines. The shalelayers of Eisenberg are marbled withveins of oxidized ore and have a ratherthick layer of loam. This provides theright conditions for red wines with anunmistakably energetic structure, char-acteristic truffle-peppery overtones andstrong mineral notes. In Burgenland

these conditions for making red wine arefound only here and in the hilly vineyards of Deutsch-Schützen, wherethe soils are generally somewhat deeperand more weathered and also containless iron. A spirited structure, comple-mented by notes of iron, distinguishesthese wines from those of Lutzmanns-burg and Horitschon in Mittelburgen-land, although the latter are somewhatsimilar in density and distinctiveness.Due to the small scale of local opera-tions, the red wines of Südburgenland

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in the hills around Rust, with tank vini-fication – provided the acidity is not tooextreme – producing results equal inquality to those achieved with carefulwood ageing. After all, several of the bestwood-aged white wines come fromChardonnay vineyards, with wine-growing operations such as Kollwentzand Velich coming to mind as examples.Like Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay is supremely well-suited to serving as anunobtrusive basis for white-wine blendsas well as for making a pure varietalTrockenbeerenauslese.

The latter, carefully aged in an oak bar-rel, is not to be equalled anywhere elsein Austria. Even when thus vinified, thisvariety’s trademarks – the exotic compo-nents of its aromas (pineapple, bananaand much more), its dense body and dis-tinctively structured acidity – can usu-ally be recognized.

GRAPE VARIETIES

Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder)

This grape variety, a rare one both inBurgenland and elsewhere, has little pri-mary fruit aroma and is usually more reminiscent of burnt sugar, cotton candyand caramel as well as red berries on occasion. While it can be turned intopowerful, dry white wines that are some-times a bit lacking in supporting acid-ity, Pinot Gris also makes an excellentblending partner for its relatives PinotBlanc and Chardonnay, all the way up tothe highest Prädikat designations.

Sauvignon Blanc

Following its widely recognized suc-cess story in southern Styria, the Sauvi-gnon trend proceeded to spread to all other Austrian winegrowing regions,including the whole of Burgenland. Par-ticularly good results are to be obtainedin Burgenland’s northern reaches, although the Sauvignon grape needs acertain minimum amount of rain andmust be harvested neither too early nortoo late. A premature harvestresults in fairly simple“green” wines suggestiveof stinging nettles and pep-per. These wines arenow quite justifiably“out”. Harvestingtoo late resultsin a heavy,overly alcoho-lic wine lacking inlively, fruity charm.The best Sauvignonsfrom northern Burgenlandusually have a nose of elder-berry, cassis and other darkberries; sometimes freshlime, anise and fennel notes

can also be detected. There should be nomore than a hint of husk-like under-tones, and the wine’s acidity should har-monize well with its medium-strong topowerful body.

Traminer

The Traminer, in its typical yellow,white, red and Gewürz- (spice) varieties,with the distinction between the lattertwo being quite indistinct, will always beamong Burgenland’s “protected minor-ities”, even though it is capable of pro-ducing quite pronounced aromas remi-niscent of roses, coconut and dried apri-cots. Occasionally, however, it ends upbeing so flowery and intense that somewine connoisseurs consider it to be excessively perfumed or evenoverpowering. Another important issueis getting the Traminer’s typically high al-cohol content and rather pronouncedacidity to harmonize well with the afore-mentioned aromatic array. The light tan-nins and bitter notes so typical of the

Traminer do, however,allow it to produce a

more sturdy andstructured des-

sert wine thanmany

PANNONIA | 25

of BurgenlandAndi Kollwentz on ChardonnayIn general, the Chardonnay

grape is relatively

unproblematic in terms of

soil and climate – it grows

more or less everywhere,

and indifferent results are obtained primar-

ily in those cases where harvesting is done

solely with an eye to sugar content. Truly

mature Chardonnays that have passed

through malolactic fermentation with flying

colours are quite well-suited to being fin-

ished in oak. But even those Chardonnays

that are aged “classically” in stainless-steel

tanks need a high degree of ripeness and a

long period of ageing on fine lees in order

to produce an individual wine, one that

is faithful to the character of our Leitha

Mountain region, for example, although

ageing in large wooden barrels can also

introduce interesting aspects.

� Chardonnay

24 | PANNONIA

Grüner Veltliner

It is still a relatively little-known factthat in Burgenland, as in the rest of Aus-tria, Grüner Veltliner is the number-onewhite grape variety in terms of area under vines. Although the majority ofthe wines produced from this grape con-tinue to be light wines that eating anddrinking establishments tend to serve by the glass, the past few years in partic-ular have seen more and more of Burgenland’s winemakers turn to “the green one” (the Grüner in the namemeans “green”).

As vinified in Burgenland as well, thisleading Austrian variety has proved to be highly satisfactory. The range of wines produced from the Grüner Veltlinergrape ranges from fresh summer wines

region or as an Ausbruch in Rust. Thismakes it an unbeatably subtle dessertwine, well-supported by its lively acidityeven when the residual sugar content isextremely high.

Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder)

The unassuming aromas of the PinotBlanc, with its bouquet of stone fruits,orange peel and almonds (also reminis-cent of walnuts and cocoa when aged)can be found in all of Burgenland’s wine-growing areas. Unexcelled, however, isthe Pinot Blanc’s ability to join in a har-monious blend as an equal partner toChardonnay or Grauburgunder (PinotGris). It also does well with gentle woodageing as long as the amount of new caskwood used isn’t excessive. Classically styled representatives of this variety canbe found above all in the lime-rich vine-yards of the south-facing slopes of theLeitha Mountains, but in Gols as well thePinot Blanc – both as a single varietaland as part of a blend – plays a leadingrole among whites. It is also excellentlysuited to the production of Prädikat-quality wines, up to and including thehighest categories.

Chardonnay

With the rampant “Chardonnitis” ofthe early 1990s now having passed its zenith and begun to fade, it is finally pos-sible to view this grape variety with thenecessary distance. Even though theyare present in all of Burgenland’s wine-growing areas, Chardonnay grapes prob-ably produce the most characteristic results in the Leitha Mountain area and

THE PROVINCE’S WINES ARE made from a multitude of characteristic types of

white and red grapes.

W H I T E W I N E S

Burgenland Varieties

The Grape Varieties

Andreas Liegenfeld on Welschriesling

Throughout the entire

province of Burgenland,

from the south

to the north and from

Rechnitz to Gols, the classically vinified

Welschriesling stands out by virtue of its

lively fruit aromas. But it should not be

vinified too opulently, and it is best enjoyed

young. In terms of marketing, it is sold

and enjoyed everywhere in Austria, for

example, among those connoisseurs who

prefer its piquant apple note to the Velt-

liner’s pepperiness.

that are best consumed young all theway up to spice-laden reserve-qualitywines with serious ageing potential. Since Grüner Veltliner retains its character in many different types of soil,it does well in the more lime-rich areas along the slopes of the LeithaMountains as well as in the sandy soilsnear Lake Neusiedl, and even better inheavy, loess-laden soils. After years ofstagnating sales, this variety is cur-rently enjoying a renaissance. Alongsideclassic dry vinification, it is also excellently suited to producing sweetervariants, such as Eiswein (made fromgrapes frozen on the vine).

Welschriesling

This grape variety is well known toconnoisseurs of Austrian wine as theuncontested number one in the south-ern province of Styria. In Burgenland itis primarily at home in the hills aroundLake Neusiedl and in areas near the lake’s northern shores, as well as insouthern Burgenland in the area ofRechnitz. Its fresh, unconventional aro-matic complexity is at first reminiscentof green apples, citrus fruits, currantsand gooseberries; also typical are itssmooth structure and pithy acidity,both of which predestine the Welschries-ling to being served as an apéritif on ahot day or providing a straightforwardaccompaniment to simple fare. But theWelschriesling can also take on a com-pletely different role when it is vinified asa Trockenbeerenauslese in the Seewinkel Ph

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GRAPE VARIETIES

Cabernet SauvignonIn the 1980s this trendsetter elsewhere

in Europe and overseas finally reachedBurgenland. Austria’s best red-wine pro-ducers were quick to notice that it ripensfully here only in the best years, and onlythen does it unfold its familiar bouquetand taste of blackcurrants and black-berries accompanied by good volumeand rich tannins. In less-favourable years it tends to be strangely pepperyand grassy, and for that reason severalproducers in Burgenland have either reduced or eliminated their plantings inCabernet Sauvignon. Without a doubt,it is at its best in blends with Blaufrän-kisch, Zweigelt or Merlot.

MerlotAlthough it was first used largely as a

junior partner in blends with CabernetSauvignon, Merlot has undergone acertain renaissance in recent years.This is due in particular to the high degree of maturity it reaches in Austria(sometimes rather suddenly) as wellas to the pleasant fact that it growswell even in heavy loess and loam.Its current popularity is probablyjustified, for in the long term itwill most likely harmonize bet-ter with the rest of the Austrianred-wine varietals than doesCabernet Sauvignon, which wasinitially more widely planted.These days, strong, pure varietal

grasps the subtle character of this morelight-coloured but distinctively acidicred wine with its gentle bouquet of raspberries, blackheart cherries andalmonds and its ability to conjure up other rather strange associations, suchas underbrush, moss and mushrooms,making it something generally better understood by the palate than by the intellect. All in all, the next few yearsshould see Burgenland’s best red-winelocations producing some surprisesfrom this difficult grape variety.

St. LaurentThis native Austrian red-wine variety,

of which unfortunately only one parent– Pinot Noir – is known, has been making a much-deserved comeback forseveral years now, despite a number ofcharacteristics that make things difficultfor winegrowers, such as coulure (failureof grapes to develop after flowering),slow ripening and high sensitivity to rot.Its extremely seductive bouquet of cherryand plum notes is usually followed bysubdued, even subtle taste impressionsthat occasionally remind one of PinotNoir. Despite their rather delicate body,many St. Laurent wines age surprisinglywell, making obvious their suitability foruse in blends with Pinot Noir, Zweigeltand Blaufränkisch. And if looks are notdeceiving, St. Laurent would seem to beon the threshold of a golden era. In Bur-genland, it is the winegrowers in theLake Neusiedl region in particular whoare placing their bets on this sensitivered-wine grape.

Merlots are made in nearly all of Burgen-land’s red-wine growing areas. For themost part they have rather tempestuousaromas reminiscent of the leaves ofplants from the nightshade family; thesescents are sometimes joined by impres-sions of black olives, pepper and liquorice.A typical role for Merlot is, of course, inthe classic Bordeaux blend with CabernetSauvignon or Cabernet Franc, but it alsomakes a gentle, balanced partner for Blau-fränkisch.

Syrah (Shiraz)

Due to the relative youth of Syrahplantings, the jury is still out on this mostrecent arrival to Burgenland’s red-winelandscape. In general, pure Syrah varie-tal wines sometimes seem too neutraland bristly to be able to compete on anequal par with their role models from thesouth of France. On the other hand,some experimental “garage wines” havemade quite a splash with their deep spiciness and astounding substance,meaning that further developmentsmay be awaited with interest. In anycase, Syrah is already being used quitesuccessfully in several high-quality red-wine blends. �

Gerhard Pittnauer on St. Laurent

I firmly focus my effortson St. Laurent. Alongwith Blaufränkisch, it isthe Austrian red-winegrape with the biggest

potential for making truly great wine.It is particularly well-suited to thelighter soils on the eastern shores ofLake Neusiedl. In good vintage years, itreminds one a bit of Shiraz, and in les-ser years it is more akin to Pinot Noir.Interestingly enough, it seems to bemore widely recognized and esteemed abroad thanit is on the domestic Austrian market.

� Zweigelt

� Blaufränkisch

PANNONIA | 2726 | PANNONIA

Blaufränkisch

This grape variety, which was evidentlyan early arrival in Austria, probably takes its name from the ancient descrip-tor Fränkisch (Franconian), which wasapplied to all high-quality varieties ofwine in contrast to the so-called Hun-

nisch (Hunnish) varieties. It can be con-sidered a longstanding native of Bur-genland and has meanwhile becomesomething of a poster child for theboom in Austrian red wines. Its dis-tinctive personality, which begins withan unmistakable bouquet of black cher-ries, cranberries, blackberries, cinna-mon, etc., and continues in its medium-strong to strong body with vibrant acid-ity and medium-to-high tannin content,has even managed to make quite a fewwaves in the foreign specialist press.Blaufränkisch grapes ripen fairly late inthe season and therefore require verygood locations, although they can pro-duce good results in a variety of soils, including loam subsoil, shale and lime.They are relatively insensitive to the pre-sence of Botrytis cinera and well-suitedto ageing in oak casks, at least for a lim-ited time. Blaufränkisch does well inblends with gentler partners such asZweigelt and St. Laurent but can alsoharmonize quite pleasantly with Caber-net and Merlot.

Zweigelt

The specific characteristics of thisAustrian hybrid of Blaufränkischand St. Laurent usually tend moretowards the Blaufränkisch side, butwith the wines from central Burgen-land in particular, it is relatively easyto confuse a Zweigelt with a Blaufrän-kisch. Similarities to St. Laurent are lessfrequent; if present, they are reflected ina sour-cherry flavour and a delicate full-ness. This relative newcomer has beenproducing notable results since the bestproducers began strictly limiting the sizeof their harvest. As long as the grapes arefully ripe, they are well-suited to limitedwood ageing, and they can also play aleading role in red-wine blends withBlaufränkisch, Cabernet, St. Laurent, etc.The section of the Wagram ridge near theflat area known as the Parndorfer Platte,with its centre near Gols, has establisheda fine reputation for its premium-class,red-wine blends with Zweigelt as the dominant grape.

R E D W I N E Sother varieties, for which reason it is often allowed to keep a bit of residual sugar even in more modest-quality pro-ducts. In the most successful cases, itproduces one of Austria’s most ageablewhite wines.

NeuburgerThis unassuming grape variety, which

sometimes has a bit of walnut anddried fruit in its aroma, is acutely threat-ened with extinction, although in Bur-genland, in particular, it has a poten-tially broad range of uses, ranging frommedium-strong apéritifs to high-qualitydessert wines.

Muskat-OttonelThis variety makes for great apéritifs

with hints of cinnamon and nutmeg aswell as – in the best cases – a touch oflychee and kiwi, but it occasionally suf-fers from its slightly low acidity andshould thus generally be enjoyed young.This, of course, does not apply to Prä-

dikat-quality wines made from this increasingly rare variety.

Gelber MuskatellerThe acidic texture of this grape is

significantly more tangy than that of Muskat-Ottonel, which has somewhatless substance. These characteristics generally elevate it above the status of apure summer wine. Gelber Muskatellercan also produce wonderful dessert wines with grapey fruit brilliance and an edgy kick of acidity. Small doses of thisgrape typically used to be added to thesweet wines from Rust known as Ruster Ausbruch.

FurmintFurmint has always been the most

important grape for making Tokaji Aszú,a botrytized wine from the region of Tokaj-Hegyalja in Hungary, and was animportant component of Ruster Aus-

bruch as well. With the vintners in Rusthaving rescued it from extinction, it cannow once more be found here and there – in Ruster Ausbruch and also sometimes as a dry wine.�

Anton Iby on Blaufränkisch

We absolutely must

refrain from “robbing

Blaufränkisch of its

soul” – in other words,

Blaufränkisch wines

should ideally taste like the grapes

they are made from and not like the

methods of vinification used. For that

reason, we aim to cultivate grapes with

a fine, maturely structured acidity that

gives the wine a fresh and animating

quality. That is why only a third of

even our top Blaufränkisch wines are

aged in new oak casks, and we have

also markedly reduced toasting of the

inside of the barrels.

Birgit Braunstein on ZweigeltTo my mind, this variety

has a special significance

in Austria because it was

developed here. Unfortu-

nately, its potential is still

somewhat underestimated. But with con-

sistent work in the vineyard – strictly lim-

iting the harvest is essential – and suitable

terroir, Zweigelt grapes can produce mul-

tifaceted, well-structured wines with

commensurate ageing potential.

Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder)

This diva among the internationallyprevalent red-wine grapes has alwayshad a presence in Burgenland, even if inrather small amounts. These days the reserved charms of Pinot Noir have beenfinding ever-greater favour outside ofspecialist circles; thus there has been astrong tendency to expand plantings inall of Burgenland’s red-wine strong-holds. Not every wine-lover immediately Ph

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DAC

PANNONIA | 29

Historically, viticulture developedaround a distinctive terroir: thespecial composition of the soils

is the greatest treasure of the Leithabergregion. The controlled name of originLeithaberg DAC was introduced in 2009to support local winegrowers in focusingthe style of their wines even more ontheir origin.

Some 50 kilometres southeast of Vien-na, a forested range of hills stretchesalong the border between Lower Austriaand Burgenland. These are the LeithaMountains, and their foothills extendingbetween the villages of Jois, Mörbischam See and Müllendorf have markedlyinfluenced the ancient viticultural land-scape. It seemed only logical to estab-lish the controlled name of origin Lei-thaberg DAC here, given the quality of theterroir, which has been shaped by spe-cial soil formations, the local climate andthe guiding hands of the winegrowers.

Characteristic Soil Formations

The locals have coined their own names for the distinctive soil structuresof the region, which depending on thebedrock include Ranker in the case ofmetamorphic rock (mica schist andgneiss) and Redzina in the case of shelllimestone (often called Leitha lime-stone here). The roots of the vines extenddown into these subsoils, usuallythrough a rather thin layer of humusfrom which the rocks sometimes pro-trude. The style of wine is subject to fairlysignificant geological influences result-ing from the different soils, which com-bine with the Pannonian climate to cre-ate obvious characteristics of origin.

Typicality TriumphsWines labelled Leithaberg DAC must

have a clearly recognizable signature.Like all the other controlled names oforigin, Leithaberg DAC must meet thegeneral standards required of all high-quality Austrian wines (Qualitätsweine).In addition, the approved varietals arespecified exactly: Grüner Veltliner, PinotBlanc, Chardonnay and Neuburger forLeithaberg DAC white wines and Blau-fränkisch for reds. The wines must beclearly structured, elegant and complex.Influenced by the warmth of Lake Neu-siedl and the coolness of the LeithaMountains, these are exciting and fullwines with the minerality typical of their origin (Leitha limestone and micaschist). Heavy oak and opulent heavi-ness are not permitted, nor is superficialfruitiness, and the alcohol content mustbe between 12.5% and 13.5%. Finally, the wines of Leithaberg shouldpossess longevity with a high potentialfor further development. �

Leithaberg DAC• Origin: Leithaberg

• Maximum residual sugar content: 2.5g/l

• 12.5% to 13.5% alcohol content

• Finely knit, spicy and minerally,

little or no oak

• Leithaberg DAC red wines:

Blaufränkisch

May not be sold before 1 September

of the second year following the

harvest

• Leithaberg DAC white wines:

Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc,

Chardonnay and Neuburger, either

as a pure varietal or as a blend

May not be sold before 1 September

of the year following the harvest

� The Leitha Mountains gave their

name to the DAC Leithaberg, which

produces distinctive white and red

wines full of character.

Leithaberg DAC

Whites & Reds with Character

Phot

o:Eg

on M

ark

For many decades the labelling ofhigh-quality Austrian wines(Qualitätsweine) focused on thegrape variety and the sugar con-

tent of the must. The origin of the wineplayed a secondary role.

At the same time, however, labelsbased on origin sometimes have a longtradition in Burgenland, just as they doin the rest of Austria. The name Ruster Ausbruch, for example, has stood formany centuries for one of the most outstanding wines produced anywhere.In addition, however, there are many origins in Burgenland – referring to a

28 | PANNONIA

IN THE EARLY YEARS OF THE NEW MILLENNIUM Austria began shifting from

a wine classification system based on the variety of grape as specified under

Germanic viticultural law to a system along Latin lines that is based on origin.

Burgenland meanwhile has three classic winegrowing areas with controlled

names of origin, which in Austria is called Districtus Austriae Controllatus or DAC.

DAC – Districtus Austriae Controllatus

Around the year 2000, the prerequisites were created in Austria for abandoning the viticultural law that applies in Germany

and is thus called Germanic and adopting the system based on origins that is customary in many Latin countries. The

basic idea behind this change was that while grape varieties may be interchangeable, specific origins are not. As a

consequence, regional committees were formed in the individual winegrowing areas for the purpose of drawing up guide-

lines for the new controlled names of origin (DACs). These were to specify one or more varieties, styles and various minimum

standards as well as determine when the wine could be sold. The guidelines, however, also make it possible to specify a vari-

ety of other parameters, including the yield per hectare, the system of training the vines, viticultural processing methods, the

work in the cellar, maturation and minimum aging times.

Beginning in 2006 with the 2005 vintage, Mittelburgenland (“central Burgenland”), which specializes almost exclusively in

red wines made from the Blaufränkisch grape, became Burgenland’s first DAC area. In 2010 two other areas began using

appellations in marketing their wines: Eisenberg DAC in southern Burgenland produces red wines, while Leithaberg DAC in

the north and west as well as north of Lake Neusiedl makes both reds and whites. The DAC status is awarded by a commission

of experts only to those wines recognised as being typical of the area. This applies to all the DAC categories. You will find

more specific information about Burgenland’s DACs on the following pages.

All of the other ‚ (from areas other than those covered by the respective DACs) are simply marketed under the designation

“Burgenland”.

specific region, place or vineyard – thatwine aficionados associate with a veryparticular type of wine or style.

These wines were almost always madefrom one or a handful of varieties typi-cal of the region (very sweet winesbeing an exception), that have provedover many years to be particularly well-suited to cultivation in the respectivearea. In addition, of course, there werealso traditions concerning the mannerof growing and processing the grapes aswell as storing the wine, and these, too,had a significant influence on the respective style.�

A Focus on OriginPh

oto:

Sonn

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DAC

PANNONIA | 31

With the addition of EisenbergDAC, Burgenland got its thirdcontrolled name of origin.

This DAC focuses exclusively on the clas-sic red-wine varietal Blaufränkisch. Named for a historical vineyard, the appellation is synonymous with minerallywines of pronounced character.

The area authorized to use the Eisen-berg appellation lies in the south of Burgenland, close to the border betweenAustria and Hungary and along the Pinka River, which crosses the border several times.

Typical of the geography are gentle,sometimes forested hills where vines aregrown on south and southeast-facingslopes.

At the centre of this area is the his-toric Weinberg, which gave its name tothe most recently created DAC. It shouldbe mentioned in this context that Eisen-berg DAC was the first appellation to regain its former name, which was usedofficially into the 1980s.

Unmistakable Terroir

While the Eisenberg DAC is comprisedof all of southern Burgenland, with the dis-tricts of Oberwart, Güssing and Jennersdorf, viticulture is limited almostexclusively to the eastern parts of the area.Only about 150 hectares are planted withBlaufränkisch vines, making the EisenbergDAC Burgenland’s smallest controlledname of origin by a wide margin. The Blau-fränkisch wines grown here have alwaysbeen known for their pronounced andunique style, the product of a combinationof the climate and, in particular, the soil:the terroir. Although the DAC lies in thesouth of the province, the climate is somewhat cooler than in the north. Inaddition, the greater distance from LakeNeusiedl means that the latter has almostno influence in regulating temperatures.The soils of the appellation are mostly loamy and often very rich in minerals,especially iron (Eisen), which contributesto the special character of the wines.

Eisenberg DAC

Minerally Reds

Classic and ReserveOnly the Blaufränkisch grape may be

used in making wines that bear “Eisen-berg” as their controlled name of origin.They are required to be typical of thearea and variety and must be fruity, min-erally and spicy. Within the DAC thereare two categories. In wines labelled asEisenberg DAC (with no additional specification), fruit and spice predomi-nate. These wines must be without anynoticeable oak and may not be sold before the September following the har-vest year. DAC wines with the addi-tional specification “Reserve” are morepowerful and must have the same fla-vours and notes typical of the area andvariety. Wines of this category are agedin wooden barrels. Because aging poten-tial is demanded of Reserve wines, theymay not be sold before 1 March of thesecond year following the harvest.�

Eisenberg DAC• Blaufränkisch is the only variety

permitted •Origin: Eisenberg• Maximum residual sugar content: 4g/l•Eisenberg DAC:

Fruity, minerally, spicyLittle or no oak12.5% to 13% alcohol contentMay not be sold before 1 Septemberfollowing the harvest yearNatural cork or screw-top

•Eisenberg DAC Reserve:Minerally, spicy, powerfulAged in traditional wooden barrelsAt least 13% alcohol contentMay not be sold before 1 March of thesecond year following the harvest Only natural cork

� As one of the historical vineyards of southern Burgenland, Eisenberg is knownfor the particularly high iron content of its soil.

Phot

o:He

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rhar

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30 | PANNONIA

Mittelburgenland DAC

Distinctive Blaufränkisch

Mittelburgenland DAC

• Blaufränkisch is the only variety

permitted

Origin: Mittelburgenland (central

Burgenland)

Maximum residual sugar content

2.5g/l

• Mittelburgenland DAC: Fruity, spicy

Little or no noticeable oak

12.5% to 13% alcohol content

May not be sold before 1 August of

the year following the harvest

• Mittelburgenland DAC from a specified

vineyard: fruity, spicy, powerful

Aged in traditional wooden barrels,

slight oak-touch permitted, 13% to

13.5% alcohol content

May not be sold before 1 October of

the year following the harvest

• Mittelburgenland DAC Reserve:

Fruity, spicy, powerful

Aged in wooden barrels, noticeable

to dominant woodiness permitted

At least 13% alcohol content

May not be sold before 1 March of the

second year following the harvest

Central Burgenland (Mittelbur-genland) was Austria’s first DACregion to focus its attention on

red wine. It has just the right conditionsfor growing the Blaufränkisch grape,Austria’s impressive home-grown vari-etal in red. Thanks to the DAC system, these wines will continue togrow in reputation and character in thecoming years.

As the name Mittelburgenland sug-gests, the DAC region extends acrosscentral Burgenland to the south of LakeNeusiedl, from which it is separated bya tongue of land on Hungarian territo-ry. This is one of Austria’s great centresof red-wine cultivation. Here in thegently rolling vineyards of central Bur-genland, the leading role is played by thered-grape variety Blaufränkisch. Thearea offers highly favourable topogra-phic and climatic prerequisites alongwith deep soils and weather influencedby the Pannonian plains: in short, idealconditions for growing the kinds of fullymature and expressive red wines that arecausing a sensation internationally.

A Clear Message:

One DAC, One Variety

Four wine-growing communities setthe tone there: Deutschkreutz, Horit-schon, Lutzmannburg and Necken-markt. In keeping with the DAC conceptof defining a specific origin and terroir,the soils in these four communities areall quite similar. Predominant in centralBurgenland are deep and heavy clayeysoils with a correspondingly high capac-ity to retain water. In the prevailingwarm, dry climate this is truly a blessing.All in all, the conditions here are ideal

for growing the Blaufränkisch grapethat is the area’s classic, typical varietal.

The Three DAC Pillars

Only red wines that are made fromBlaufränkisch grapes and are typical ofthe region are permitted to bear theappellation Mittelburgenland DAC onthe label. There are three categories inthe DAC system of Mittelburgenland,and they also vary in alcoholic content.The term “Classic” denotes Blaufrän-kisch wines that are pronouncedly fruityand have been matured in traditionallarge wooden barrels or in a steel tanks.

The next higher category of Mittelbur-genland DAC bears the name of the specific vineyard site. These wines arecharacterised by their powerful Blau-fränkisch style. They have been maturedin used barrels and have a slightly woodynote. At the top of the quality pyramidare wines designated as “Reserve” – themost full-bodied and powerful Blaufrän-kisch wines. They may be matured in large used wooden barrels or in smallernew ones.�

� The heavy clayey soils of the DAC

Mittelburgenland provide ideal grow-

ing conditions for the classic red-wine

varietal Blaufränkisch.

Phot

o:Eg

on M

ark

SWEET WINES

PANNONIA | 33

1 Martin Pasler, the new sweet-wine star

from Jois, has the last laugh when it comes

to outstanding quality.

2 Gerhard Kracher’s are among the most

renowned of Austrian Prädikat wines.

3 The two newcomers (from l.) Werner Ring-

hofer and Harald Pairits produce prime

vintages.

4 Heidi Schröck, the grande dame of Ruster

Ausbruch, enjoying a glass of it.

5 New sweet-wine talent from Illmitz:

Christian Tschida is an uncompromising

quality fanatic.

6 Schilfwein pioneer and marketing genius

Willi Opitz has his grapes well in hand.

7 All in the family in Gols: Hans Nittnaus

and son Andreas on a quality-control

round.

8 Heinz Velich’s “sweets” help make him one

of Burgenland’s most consistently out-

standing vintners.

1

3

5 6

7 8

4

2

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,

32 | PANNONIA

Sweet wines have a centuries-longtradition in Burgenland. Apartfrom historical documentationof a Trockenbeerenauslese known

as the “Luther wine” from Donners-kirchen dating from 1526, there are alsodetailed records beginning in the seventeenth century of Ausbruch wines(made from botrytized grapes) beingproduced in many communities thatwere at that time Hungarian and are nowpart of Burgenland. The Pannoniansweet wines encompass a correspond-ingly mature, rich palette of various types characterized by their density ofmust, varietal and ageing process as wellas by the ratio of residual sugar to alco-hol of the respective wine.

The base of the pyramid of Prädikat

wines is formed by Spätlese and Auslese

wines that display little effect of the noble rot Botrytis cinerea but are attrac-tive rather for their fruit and their varietal character. Most of the top pro-ducers of sweet wines have began to refocus their attention on this category– and rightly so: aromatic varieties likeSämling and Muskat-Ottonel are an attractive complement to such classicsas Welschriesling and the Burgundy types. Outstanding quality and a remark-able selection are offered by well-knownwine estates all around Lake Neusiedl,such as the Tschida family’s Angerhof inIllmitz, the up-and-coming winegrowers

Hans and Christine Nittnaus in Gols andvenerable Rust wine estates like Feiler-Artinger and Weingut Tremmel. The lat-ter is also one of the vintners with a pas-sion for a rare varietal peculiar to Rust,the Furmint, which has been savedfrom extinction through the commit-ment of fellow winegrowers like GeorgSeiler and Michael Wenzel. The latter’sfather, Robert, was primarily responsi-ble for the renaissance of this tradi-tional varietal.

Which brings us to the highest levelsof Prädikat wines, Beerenauslese andTrockenbeerenauslese. One of the best-known representatives of these wines is,of course, Ruster Ausbruch, which is cul-tivated in an exemplary manner byeminent local vintners such as Schandl,Heidi Schröck and the Triebaumer fam-ily. Trockenbeerenauslese wines are accorded particular respect in Burgen-land, and they are characterized by acorrespondingly wide range of varietalsand styles. In making Trockenbeerenaus-

lese wines, it is not only the Chardonnaysand Welschrieslings that shine; the grape varieties known in Austria asSchmeckerte (“tasty”), such as Traminer,Scheurebe (Sämling) and SauvignonBlanc, can also place their great richnessand aromatic complexity on full display.Vintners with a mastery of the intricateart of making sweet wines employ notonly the classic ageing process in steel

tanks but also attain outstanding resultsthrough the use of oak barrels.

The wine-growing communities of theso-called Seewinkel – the strip of land onthe eastern shore of Lake Neusiedl extending south to the Hungarian border – have an especially high concen-tration of top producers of sweet wines.The undisputed “kings of sweet”,Kracher, Angerhof-Tschida and Velich,have been joined in recent years by newtop-flight vintners, such as ChristianTschida and the Haider family from Illmitz, Podersdorf’s Josef Lentsch andthe Steindorfer family in Apetlon.

Speciality wines such as Eiswein

(produced from grapes that have beenfrozen while still on the vine) and Schilf-

wein (made from grapes that aretraditionally dried on Schilf, or reeds, inthe sun to concentrate their flavour) area particular focus of attention in this region. Specialists like Helmut Lang havebecome internationally renowned fortheir “ice wines”, as have fellow Seewin-kel vintners such as Willi Opitz and Ger-hard Nekowitsch for their wines madefrom naturally dried grapes. But on theopposite shore of Lake Neusiedl, such vil-lages as Weiden and Jois can also boast along tradition of making fine sweet wines,and Martin Pasler and Weingut Höpler areonly two of the numerous vintners whohave turned their passion for these typesof wine into a remarkable success story.�

Treasures of Burgenland

Sweet DelightsTHE WIDE VARIETY OF STYLES and the

outstanding quality of this “Pannonian

Gold” are unrivalled anywhere in the world.

Phot

os:W

ein

Burg

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hof

WINEGROWERS

PANNONIA | 35

in order to help our friends, and anyoneelse who is interested, to understand thewines of Burgenland”, says ChristianTschida, who founded the associationtogether with his vintner colleague Gerhard Kracher and other like-minded winegrowers.

The declared goal of Vinum Rosalia isto improve the quality of wines from theRosalia Mountain area and put them inthe spotlight for wine-lovers by sharingthe members’ experience as winemakerswith one another and tasting each other’s products. Among the famousmembers of the group is Domaine Pöttelsdorf.

The small but very fine wine region ofsouthern Burgenland has also estab-lished a strong and effective vintners’ association called the Southern Burgen-land Wine Idyll. Deutsch Schützen Eisenberg, in particular, has great his-torical significance as far as local winesare concerned and joins Deutsch Schüt-

zen Weinberg in functioning as a viti-cultural focal point for the typical localvintages.

Cercle Ruster Ausbruch is a sweet ex-ception among the winegrowers’ asso-ciations. Founded in 1991, it was theworld’s first consortium of producers ofsweet dessert wines. Top local vintners,including Feiler-Artinger, Heidi Schröckand Michael Wenzel, have jointly drawnup a charter in which they pledge to con-tinue the centuries-old traditions of Ruster Ausbruch.

Great ExpectationsThe vintners’ associations of Burgen-

land have made significant contributionsto maintaining and improving the qual-ity of the province’s wines. Working together, they have developed and pre-served wine styles that emphasise the individual terroir, thus becoming cata-lysts in improving the quality of winesthroughout Burgenland.�

1 Cercle Ruster Ausbruch closely

monitors the style and quality of

the “Gold of Rust”.

2 The Vitikult group of vintners are

committed to making fine

Blaufränkisch wines.

3 Top wines from southern Burgen-

land are made by the vintners of

Deutsch Schützen.

4 The members of the group RWB

are among the best vintners in

Burgenland.

5 On a successful course for many

years now: Donnerskirchen Wine

Quartet members (l. to r.) Hans

Neumayer, Josef Bayer, Leo Som-

mer and Andreas Liegenfeld.

6 The Pannobile vintners produce

top-quality wines at Wogenrain

in Gols.

3 4

5 6

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34 | PANNONIA

The trend of Burgenland viticul-ture clearly points in the direc-tion of indigenous varietiesand an even more pronounced

regional typicity. The days are overwhen vintners worked like lone wolves,fiddling and refining in secret to createtheir own individual wine styles, and thisis mostly to the credit of the wine asso-ciations. The Blaufränkisch Associationof Central Burgenland, for example,played a certain pioneering role. As theumbrella organisation of winegrowers incentral Burgenland, it has existed in itscurrent form since 1989. From the verybeginning, the association had a twofoldgoal: to market Blaufränkisch wineswhile at the same time improving theirquality.

Top Winegrowers Want More

The Renowned Wine Estates of Bur-genland (RWB) have made a firm com-

mitment to quality-oriented viticultureand to maintaining the regional viticul-tural tradition. This is a coalition of 14top Burgenland winegrowers with estatesin central Burgenland as well as aroundthe classic winegrowing villages that sur-round Lake Neusiedl. Ernst Triebaumer,Andi Kollwentz and Josef Umathum, toname only a few prominent members,are part of this coalition. Similar clima-tic, topographic and geological condi-tions along the Wogenrain near Golshave, in turn, induced leading wine-maker John Nittnaus to found the Pan-nobile Association, and the quality requirements for membership are high.The designation “Pannobile” is permit-ted to be on the label along with the sig-nature of the individual vintner only ifall nine members unanimously believethat the wine is typical of the soil, climateand variety. Georg Schmelzer, a memberof the group Select Gols, sees an obvi-ous advantage to a committed vintners’

association: “The winemakers spur oneanother on, and the overall quality really soars.”

Moving on to the Leitha Mountains:this prominent, long, almost crescent-shaped chain is a short distance fromLake Neusiedl and is the traditionalhome of a number of especially individ-ualistic wines. The vintners of the LeithaMountain Association appropriatelymention their wines’ terroir and depthin their advertising. Over the past few years they have created their own uniqueoenological signature.

The so-called “Wine Quartet” is alsowell-established, having succeeded inpromoting high quality while preservingthe members’ individuality despite acommon “umbrella” brand. Club Bat-tonage also promotes, supports and furthers the viticulture of Burgenland.The Club also markets its own in-housebrand under that name. “We foundedthe club when we were young vintners

BURGENLAND’S WINEGROWERS

have joined together in a

number of highly committed

associations to the benefit of

both quality and sales figures.&All for One

One for all

1 2

INTERVIEW

PANNONIA | 37

to be more expressivein the fruit.VINARIA: In addi-

tion to Blaufrän-

kisch, other indige-

nous grape varie-

ties such as Zwei-

gelt and St. Lau-

rent are also of

great importance.

How are they

viewed by interna-

tional experts?

Aldo Sohm: Zweigeltis becoming increas-ingly popular. I love St.Laurent wines because theygo well with food, just likeZweigelt does, and my colleaguesagree. In addition, they have a certainesoteric touch.VINARIA: How would you characterize

the three most important red wine varie-

ties of Burgenland – Blaufränkisch,

Zweigelt and St. Laurent?

Aldo Sohm: Blaufränkisch: spicy, fruit-

driven, dark berries, earthy and slightly

herbaceous. Firm tannins.

Zweigelt: fresh fruit, plums,

violet flavours, elegant tannins,

medium bodied.

St. Laurent: Burgundian style,

perhaps with a bit denser fruit

and some softer tannins.

VINARIA: When it comes to Blaufrän-

kisch, Burgenland’s classic red-wine variety, there are many differences ofopinion regarding styles. Some wine-makers strive for a more masculine stylerich in tannins while others try to achievea Burgundian character. What do youthink about the two trends, and whichstyle do you prefer? Or do you see bothas valid interpretations of Blaufränkisch?Aldo Sohm: I prefer a style rich in

minerals, well-balancedand complex. I’m not a

big fan of intenselyfruity wines or extremely concen-trated ones thathave been too heav-ily influenced by thebarrel. They are nota pleasure to drink,and are difficult to

pair with food. On theAustrian market they

serve the role of provingthat Austrians can also

produce wines similar tothose made in California, but

customers in the US would rather stick to a Californian wine

than buy a similar imported version.VINARIA: Please match the following

wines with a typical dish:

Aldo Sohm: Powerful Blaufränkisch:

with rib-eye steaks.

Velvety Zweigelt: I think Zweigelt can

be paired well with warm fish dishes,

for example an escolar in a red-wine

béarnaise.

Trockenbeerenauslese:

with chocolate desserts.

One of the most important factors forthe success of Austrian wines is that theycan be matched with any food or culture. That is of great significance in the US.�

� With New York City as his backdrop,

star sommelier Aldo Sohm looks confi-

dently into the future.

Phot

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/Dav

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36 | PANNONIA

VINARIA: What do you think makes

Austria unique?

Aldo Sohm: Of course I think of Austriaas being culturally rich in terms of artand music, and the landscapes andscenery are beautiful. With the redefin-ing of Austrian wine in recent years, ayounger generation of winemakers hasbeen striving for even higher quality. VINARIA: What do people in the US

associate with Burgenland in terms of

culture, scenery and winegrowing?

Aldo Sohm: Lake Neusiedl and the redand sweet wines connected with it.Burgenland itself is less well-known.Americans are really aware of only twoAustrian cities: Salzburg and Vienna.VINARIA: If someone wants to travel to

Burgenland, what would you recom-

mend as must-sees?

Aldo Sohm: Certainly Rust, a pictur-esque little town that I love. Lake Neu-siedl, though only two metres deep, is a

visiting Burgenland simply has to try?

Aldo Sohm: Zander – also called “pikeperch” – and there are lots of dishes witha Hungarian influence.VINARIA: Burgenland is Austria’s young-

est province. What do you associate

with it as a winegrowing area?

Aldo Sohm: I associate red wines, particularly Blaufränkisch, with Burgen-land, but it also produces great sweet wines.

VINARIA: How would you compare the

sweet wines from Burgenland with

those of Sauternes or Tokay?

Aldo Sohm: Dessert wines from Burgen-land are more concentrated than Sau-ternes because they are more affected byBotrytis. The alcohol content is higherin Sauternes and the acid levels tend tobe a bit lower. Another factor is that moreoak is used in Sauternes. Wines fromBurgenland are more comparable tothose of Tokay (the modern versions),although I find the wines of Burgenland

paradise for surfers but also for promot-ing Botrytis cinerea, the “noble rot”essential for making fine sweet wines.You should not miss the Taubenkobelrestaurant. And here’s another inside tip:go to Eisenberg in southern Burgenland.It’s Austria’s smallest wine-growing region: hilly, utterly picturesque, and theBlaufränkisch grapes grown there havea uniquely distinctive taste because of the iron in the soil. VINARIA: Are there any regional dishes,

specialities or wine styles that someone

BEST SOMMELIER IN AMERICA, Best Sommelier in the

World and winner of the prestigious James Beard Foun-

dation Award, the native Tyrolean Aldo Sohm has

received every significant award for sommeliers. Now

living and working in New York, he spoke to Vinaria

about Burgenland.

An Austrian

in NewYork

� Austrian Night in NY - Copyright ÖWM

ARCHITECTURE & WINE

PANNONIA | 39

TURE&WINE38 | PANNONIA

ARCHITECT

APPEALING ARCHITECTURE

can significantly enhance

the enjoyment of wine,

and Burgenland’s vintners

are leaders not only in the

field of winegrowing but in

architecture as well. Thus

their considerable success

is the result not only of

their fine “grape juice” but

also the ambience in which

the grapes are grown.

1 | Weinkulturhaus GolsBuilt in 2003Architect: Eberstallerwww.weinkulturhaus.at

Here culture meets wine. Abandoned for manydecades, the oldest building in Gols was lovingly restored at the beginning of the newmillennium and brought back to life with contemporary architecture of pioneering design.The aesthetic juxtaposition of old and new isextremely successful. Situated on the mainsquare, this architectural gem with its courtyardand vaulted cellar serves as a tourist and cultural centre as well as a shop offering the fine wines of Gols.

1

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ARCHITECTURE & WINE

PANNONIA | 41

5 | ReumannJosef & Maria Reumann, DeutschkreutzBuilt in 1999Architect: Anton Mayerhoferwww.weingut-reumann.at

The straight lines and shapes of a building reduced tothe essentials anticipate the wine style of the houseof Reumann. Next to the wine cellar and warehousethere was enough space to create a very elegantwine-tasting area.

6 | GesellmannWeingut Familie Gesellmann, DeutschkreutzBuilt in 1999Architect: Anton Mayerhoferwww.gesellmann.at

The glassed-in presentation room “floats” above thehistorical cellar vault and is connected to the attic,where the barrels are stored. An enticing combinationof translucent glass building materials and windowsfrom top to bottom opens views into the workspacesand the outdoors.

7 | WeningerWeingut Weninger, HoritschonBuilt in 1999Architect: Raimund Dickinger,Kriso Leinfellner (propeller z)www.weninger.com

In keeping with the typical depth of the Burgenlandfarmhouse called a Langhof, the individual functionalelements were strung out, one after the other. Exposedconcrete elements in conjunction with wooden framesand generous glass surfaces are combined with tradi-tional slat shading.

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2 | EsterházyWeingut Esterházy, EisenstadtBuilt in 2006Architect: Anton Mayerhofer,Pichler & Traupmannwww.esterhazywein.at

“State-of-the-art wine-cellar technology in conjunc-tion with contemporary architecture”: those were therequirements of the clients. The result is a buildingwith differentiated, sophisticated spatial cohesionand diverse references to wine and the environs.

3 | PittnauerGerhard & Brigitte Pittnauer, GolsBuilt in 2001Architect: Halbritter+Halbritter,AllesWirdGut Architektur www.pittnauer.com

The strictly functional, cube-shaped building is hometo the entire production site. All design aspects aresubordinate to wine, and the splendid panoramicview inspires the oenological vision.

4 | PrielerWeingut Familie PrielerBuilt in 2000Architect: Hans Schandlwww.prieler.at

The clear style and elegant combination of materialsare impressive in this modern extension: brick, woodand glass. The spacious garden design and stylishwooden terrace emphasize the elegance of theensemble.

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ARCHITECTURE & WINE

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8 | Hans IglerHans Igler – Schaflerhof, DeutschkreutzBuilt in 2009Architect: Anton Mayerhoferwww.weingut-igler.at

Schaflerhof was built between 1793 and 1804 and wasrenovated and adapted in 2009 with much soul, senseand enormous expertise. A definite eye-catcher is thetimber-framed construction, which is reminiscent of thehull of a ship turned upside down, creating a harmo-nious link between old and new building materials.

9 | HillingerLeo Hillinger, JoisBuilt in 2004Architect: gerner gerner pluswww.leo-hillinger.com

The building is largely set below ground but has lots ofnatural light, creating an almost festive ambience. Thepresentation room projects from the hillside and is sup-ported on two concrete pillars. It affords spectacularviews ranging from Lake Neusiedl to the LeithaMountains.

10 | Vinum FerreumWeingut Vinum Ferreum, EisenbergBuilt in 2007Architect: Johann Kalcherwww.vinum-ferreum.at

The generously glassed main building houses anattractive area for the wine shop and presentation aswell as a seminar room on the upper floor. Every leveloffers unlimited, breathtaking views into the surround-ing vineyards and out to the Pannonian Plain.

11 | SchützenhofWeingut Schützenhof – The Faulhammer FamilyBuilt in 2004Architect: Pichler & Traupmannwww.schuetzenhof.cc

The spacious and yet homogeneous building is hometo the entire production facility as well as the trans-parent tasting room. The folds of the outside of thebuilding are a continuation of the naturally hilly slopesand integrate the winegrowing estate perfectly into the landscape.

12 | J. HeinrichWeingut Familie J. Heinrich, DeutschkreutzBuilt in 2004Architect: Anton Mayerhofer & Kurt Heinrichwww.weingut-heinrich.at

Château Cheval Blanc was the prominent model forthis semicircular, functional press house. The newwine lounge was built in 2008. It blends harmoni-ously into the estate ensemble and was designed bythe family themselves.

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ARCHITECTURE & WINE

PANNONIA | 45

13 | Halbturn PalaceSchlosskellerie HalbturnBuilt in 1711/2006Architect: Johann Lucas von Hildebrand,Halbritter & Halbritterwww.schlosshalbturn.at

The wine cellars and former imperial mews ofEmperor Charles VI’s lovely Baroque huntinglodge were adapted by Halbritter & Halbritterand are now home to this top Burgenlandwinegrowing estate.

16 | KollwentzWeingut Kollwentz – Römerhof, GrosshöfleinBuilt in 2003Architect: Anton Mayerhoferwww.kollwentz.at

The addition to the original Streckhof building,an elongated Austrian farmhouse, extends andcomplements the existing lines and roof pitches,connecting old and new wine-cellar rooms alongimpressive lateral axes. Within, the atrium aswell as the slat-shaded gable front of the build-ing lend it a pleasant, transparent feeling.

17 | BayerHeribert Bayer – Kellerei in Signo Leonis, NeckenmarktBuilt in 2007Architect: Anton Mayerhoferwww.weinfreund.at

From the outside, this rectangular building withits distinctive roof looks rather restrained: here,everything is subordinated to wine, and innervalues are most important, as exemplified bythe corner-to-corner and floor-to-ceiling glasswalls of the ground floor.

18 | KracherWeinlaubenhof Kracher, IllmitzBuilt in 2003Architect: Halbritter & Hillerbrandwww.kracher.at

Central to this wine estate are the distinctly visi-ble structural layers and significant spatial relax-ations. The almost archaic materials speak a clearlanguage: oiled wood, concrete and oxidizedsteel underscore the commitment to combiningtraditional with contemporary architecture.

14 | MeinklangWeingut Meinklang, PamhagenBuilt in 2003Architect: Reinhilde Tschida & Werner Neigerwww.meinklang.at

Not just the organically farmed vineyards at Mein-klang are dynamic but also the house’s elegantand energetic architecture, which mainly relies onnatural materials. Everything has been done in ahighly elegant and well-proportioned manner.

15 | GagerWeingut Gager, DeutschkreutzBuilt in 2006Architect: Heinz Grebien, Gerald Gundackerwww.weingut-gager.at

With its characteristic wavy tin roof, the build-ing is stylishly integrated into the town centreand unites a wealth of various functional areas.The winery, tasting rooms and restaurant are allintegrated in a single appealing setting.

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ARCHITECTURE & WINE

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22 | KrutzlerWeingut Krutzler, Deutsch-SchützenBuilt in 2001Architect: Pichler & Traupmannwww.krutzler.at

The basement production facilities are inside a low-key, steel-frame construction, which isappealing by virtue of its reduced language of materials and forms. Galvanized steel panels,concrete and glossy red paint emphasize thebuilding’s main features in a becomingly pleasant and functional manner.

23 | SchieferWeingut Uwe Schiefer, WelgersdorfBuilt in 2003Architect: Franz Zogmannwww.weinbau-schiefer.at

Exposed concrete, white plaster and an effec-tive, elegant glass façade characterize thiscalm building. Despite the simplicity of thestructure, the master of the house does notneglect fine art, which graces even the walls of the wine cellar.

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19 | Heinrich Gernot & Heike Heinrich, GolsBuilt in 2001, 2009Architect: Werner Schüttmayr, propeller zwww.heinrich.at

A multi-storey underground basement wasadded to the strictly functional wine-cellarbuilding that also houses the residential quar-ters and presentation rooms. Sober functional-ity and clear-cut forms symbiotically comple-ment each other.

20 | ArachonArachon Reifekeller, HoritschonBuilt in 2004Architect: W.Holzbauer, D.Irresbergerwww.arachon.com

The most prominent design statement here isthe geometric, 80-meter-wide sandstone slabfrom St. Margarethen. The triangular entranceand window openings in the middle of thestone façade open into the courtyard with the main functional areas.

21 | BeckWeingut Judith Beck, GolsBuilt in 2005Architect: Halbritter & Hillerbrandwww.weingut-beck.at

This building of lightweight construction housesthe entire production area as well as the tast-ing room and a private flat. The simple formallanguage, inside and out, clears centre stagefor the main protagonist: wine.

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WINE SHOPS

PANNONIA | 49

wine-lover’s tricolour flag (red, white andsweet) from all the regions of the pro-vince along with wines from the specifictown and area. The local selection maybe dominated by a single variety, asfound in the wine shops of central andsouthern Burgenland, where Blaufrän-kisch plays a dominant role. Among otherregional wine shops deserving of specialmention are those in Deutschkreutz incentral Burgenland Vinatrium (1), the regional wine shop of southern Burgen-land in Moschendorf (6), the Wein-kulturhaus in Gols as well as the Burgen-land Wine Forum at Leisserhof (2) inDonnerskirchen.

But there are many other wine shopswith a specific focus that deserve a visit, and many of them are sources of special inside tips with regard to both winegrowers and the wines theymake.�

� www.weinburgenland.at

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There is a long tradition in Burgenland of paying a visit toindividual winegrowers, andthere’s something especially

attractive about the idea of tasting and discussing wines with the people whoactually produce them. But if you’relooking to explore a greater selection of fine wines from a certain area or fromthe entire region, you’ll hardly be ableto do so in even an extended series of individual tasting sessions.

This is a situation where Burgen-land’s numerous wine shops really shine. With their selection of winesfrom local producers as well as thosefrom throughout the region they are ina position to meet the needs of wine-lovers seeking to explore a wide range ofvintages in a single place. In addition,many of these shops also offer an enticing selection of typical regional delicacies: from vol-au-vent and ham topickled vegetables, juices and schnapps.

Another aspect that can make buyingwine especially enjoyable is a pleasantambience, and this is an area where Burgenland’s wine shops really excel:many of these “places of pilgrimage” forwine-lovers are found in historic buildings that have been adapted to thepurpose in a crossover between tradi-tional and modern architecture. On theone hand they exude the pleasantwarmth of ancient buildings while at thesame time making an architecturalstatement that reflects the talent andskill of creative modern builders.

The wine shops of Burgenland have anextremely varied selection on offer.Whilesome feature wines from all the pro-vince’s winegrowing areas, others spe-cialize in a particular area or even com-munity. Places like Weinwerk Burgen-land (5) in Neusiedl am See, National-park-Vinithek Steindorfer in Apetlon (3)and Sepp Sailer’s wine shop (4) in Frau-enkirchen offer what might be called a

TIP: Wine Experience World – Discover yourown, peronal approach to wine.For more information please contact: Höplers Weinräume Hauptstrasse 52, 7092 Winden am See tel. +43/(0)2683/239 07-30www.weinraeume.at info@weinraeume.at

Top Addresses for Wine-Lovers

BROAD SELECTION in a stylish

ambience: Burgenland’s wine

shops are the best place to

go when you’re looking to

taste and buy the province’s

finest wines.

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LIVING

PANNONIA | 51

Pannonian Living in its most attractiveform. They range from a tastefully ren-ovated vineyard cottage on a countryestate to exquisite vintner houses. All of them are places with a history thatis worth hearing. Among them is Bern-stein Castle with its legendary “WhiteLady”. Here the legendary Sahara explorer Laszló Almásy was born in 1895.His adventures were later immortalizedin the Oscar-winning film The English

Patient.The buildings are typically con-

structed of such organic materials aswood and daub, providing a natural andtraditional setting for people who would rather enjoy a good glass of hon-est wine in a peaceful garden than sip aBordeaux in a designer restaurant.

Man does not live by lodgings alone,of course, and the pleasures of the palate are certainly not lacking. Explor-ing the surrounding area with all the senses is the order of the day, and thewine bars, inns and country stores makethe region’s products come alive.The motto of Burgenland’s landlords is:“Try it and enjoy it”. �

� A mild summer evening at Gut

Purbach: a wonderful place to have

A fine meal and spend a comfortable

night in a stylishly furnished apart-

ment (right).

� The Bernstein Castle Hotel combines medieval romanticism with lovely

interior design. The dreamy castle garden with its arbours is a delightful place

to linger.� www.burgenland.info

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Take a breakin Pannonia

Pannonian Living in Burgenland offers stress-free holidays in a cosy vineyard cottage

or exquisite vintner house. It’s a way of focussing on yourself, on the natural

beauty that surrounds you, and on thepleasures the region offers.

Do you sometimes feel a needto get out and do somethingwhen you’re on holiday? Burgenland is the place

where the tough can get going on aclimbing wall that will leave them weak-kneed, on a mountain-bike tour with awild descent, or in a triathlon withexhaustion guaranteed. But even thetoughest adventurers will sometimeswant to take a break from their adrena-lin rush, and the other 95 per cent ofholiday-makers consider relaxation akey ingredient of any holiday.

When it comes to relaxing, Burgenlandhas opened a new dimension: Panno-nian Living. You have the feeling ofsleeping outdoors yet wake up in a com-fortable bed. And not in an impersonal designer hotel either. Staying in Burgen-land means becoming one with natureand yourself. It’s the kind of place we’ve all been waiting for: where we canput the cares of our hectic lives aside and simply feel great.

Pannonian Living is available through-out Burgenland – from the northernmostboundaries to the southernmost tip.More than 30 establishments have joinedtogether to offer the fabulous flair of

� The Old Customs House (Altes

Zollhaus) in Kroatisch Minihof:

A lovely example of traditional

Burgenland life (above).

FARM HOLIDAYS

PANNONIA | 53

n Contacts and Information

Farm Holidays in Burgenland

Esterházystrasse 15, 7000 Eisenstadt

Tel. +43/(0)2682/702-410

Fax +43/(0)2682/702-490

e-mail: uab@lk-bgld.at

www.burgenland.farmholidays.com

A Holiday on a Wine Estate offers the

following:

• A holiday on a working wine estate

• Top-quality wines right from the

estate

• A welcome drink, wine tasting with

commentary and guided wine-

cellar tours

• Cultivated wine service with fine

bottled wines by the glass

• A wine bar or tavern featuring

typical regional specialities

• Information and specialist literature

about wine right on the estate

at the height of summer or during theharvest – is always an adventure. Mostof the work required to turn grapes intowine is still performed by hand, becausewhile winemaking is certainly an art, itis still a craft as well.

At the end of a relaxing day on a wineestate, it’s time for a refreshing snack,perhaps with some freshly baked bread,a spread homemade by the farmer’s wifeand a glass of wine or grape juice rightfrom the farm. No matter how the dayhas gone, it always ends in a pleasantmanner. Food and drink are said to holdthe body and soul together, and theynever taste better than when they come

directly from the wine estate’s gardens,kitchen and cellar. The accommodationsoffered by the various wine estates arejust as a varied as the wines they pro-duce. They range from cosy farmhouseswith traditional furnishings to modernwine estates featuring contemporaryarchitecture and more unusual quarters,perhaps in an old converted barn. The possibilities are enormous, pro-viding something for every taste andbudget. It’s particularly easy to find the right wine estate on the internet. The homepage will usually have a detailed description and contact infor-mation for your reservation.�

� Holiday on a wine estate: A growing

number of winegrowers allow holiday-

makers to gain hands-on experience in

making fine wine. It’s an opportunity

for wine aficionados to both learn and

enjoy.

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Fine wines and fine holidayshave more in common thanyou might at first think. Both re-quire a favourable climate, a

quite atmosphere and as much time aspossible. But the resourceful wine-growers of Burgenland have long sincediscovered that the two – wines andholidays – can be combined in a splen-did manner. The one makes the othermore enjoyable and vice versa. A holi-day can provide the time and opportu-nity you’ve been waiting for to becomebetter acquainted with fine wine, andwine can make any holiday a moreenjoyable experience. In addition, youcan prolong the enjoyment of yourholiday a bit by taking a few bottles of afine vintage with you to enjoy at home.

Holiday on a Wine Estate

Wise ChoiceWHETHER YOU’RE DESCENDING into a pleasantly cool

wine cellar for an enjoyable wine-tasting session or sim-

ply strolling through the vineyards, a holiday on a wine

estate is a pleasure of a very special kind.

If you’re interested in knowing moreabout wine than you can learn fromquickly drinking a glass of it and wouldlike to become more familiar with thetopic of wine in general, Burgenland isthe right place for you. And there’shardly a better place in Burgenland fordoing so than on a wine estate. There thegrapes are ripening, and the wine isaging in a cool cellar, and there you candiscover what it is like to live with wine,seeing the change of seasons throughthe eyes of a winegrower and experienc-ing the processes of nature. It’s a veryspecial experience. Along with wineitself, you will become acquainted withthe complicated path that leads from thevineyard to the barrel and also, of course, with the people who help it alongits way. You’ll also discover that everywine estate greets visitors the momentthey arrive with a glass of fine wine.

Wine-tasting is a fascinating experi-ence, whether you’re taking part in a pro-fessional event with expert commentaryor simply discovering for yourself whichone of a winegrower’s wines tastes best toyou. The cellar is the heart of every wineestate, making a visit there especially rewarding. It goes without saying that atrip to the wine cellar will be part of yourvisit, taking in everything from the ancient vaulted cellars to the modernequipment used in the wineries oftoday. A stroll through the vineyards isalso a wonderful experience. Here iswhere you can expect the winegrower totell you personally about his secrets,share anecdotes about his finest vines,and explain what gives the local winestheir special character.

Those with energy to burn will almostcertainly be given an opportunity to lenda hand. There is almost always some taskto be performed where help is needed,and working in the vineyards – whether

54 | PANNONIA

Quality Before Quantity

“Best of Burgenland” was introducedby the Burgenland Tourist Board in2002 as part of a long-term campaign toraise hotel quality. In doing so, it createda concept that is more sharply focused than ever before on the servicequalities of the enterprise receiving thedesignation. “Best of Burgenland” enter-prises emphasize the special qualitiesand unique features of Burgenland intheir advertising, products and servicestandards. The “Best of Burgenland” sealof approval stands not only for Burgen-land hospitality, comfort and congenial-ity for also for competent and friendlycustomer service. The hotels in this

successful cooperative undertake tomeet certain service standards designedto guarantee their guests a stay that is aspleasant and enjoyable as possible.

The Customer is King

The way one is greeted upon arrival isa first indication of whether the stay isgoing to be a truly agreeable one. Thuswhen inspectors arrive at a hotel, theypay particular attention to the way theyare treated at the hotel reception. It goeswithout saying that a “Best of Burgen-land” hotel handles reservations, includ-ing the arrival of the guests, in an effi-cient and friendly manner. The qualityof the rooms is, of course, also espe-cially important. Here the inspectors

check and rate atmosphere, comfort andcleanliness. The next area to be checkedis the food and drink on offer: hotels thatreceive the seal of approval offer a selection of cuisine that is tasty, nutri-tious and as regional as possible. On theday of departure the inspectors also monitor the way the check-out and farewell are handled by the staff.

During these anonymous hotelinspections there is a particular focus onthe “Best of Burgenland” quality stan-dards, and many different aspects arechecked and rated. The relationship between the establishment and Burgen-land should be clearly visible in its style of architecture and decoration,which must be typical of the region.

Best of Burgenland:The Next Round

SINCE 2002 THE BURGENLAND TOURIST BOARD has been awarding

a special seal of approval to Burgenland’s finest three- to five-star

hotels. The “Best of Burgenland” is a guarantee that you will find

the province’s traditional hospitality combined with comfort, con-

geniality and service that is just as friendly as it is professional.

Modern accommodations with individual charm and character

typical of the region: Burgenland’s three- to five-star hotels have

dedicated themselves to this proposition.

BEST OF BURGENLAND

PANNONIA | 55

There is special emphasis, of course, onthe five areas that are considered pillarsof the programme to make Burgenlanda unique and unmistakable holiday paradise: nature, food and wine, sports,wellness and culture.

In these five fields Burgenland partic-ularly distinguishes itself with its regionaltypicality and authenticity. Austria’s eas-ternmost province is, after all, the placewhere the mountains meet the plains,offering an incomparable landscapewith unique fauna and flora as well as amagnificent steppe lake. The peoplehere, along with their customs, art andculture, have been marked by this spe-cial geographic location.

The food and wine are thus also

unique, as are the customs and tradi-tions for consuming them. That is imme-diately apparent during breakfast at oneof the “Best of Burgenland” establish-ments: the Burgenland buffet focuses onhomemade and regional specialities,and the decoration is lovely and regionalas well.

This programme guarantees that the“Best of Burgenland” will be found in thethree- to five-star hotels that bear theseal of approval. “Best of Burgenland”establishments are enterprises with aspecial focus on service, thus makingthem an excellent advertisement forBurgenland as a whole. �All establishments may be found atwww.best-of-burgenland.at

� Enjoy Pannonia: “Best of

Burgenland” hotels offer the finest

regional hospitality and enjoyable

ambience along with friendly, profes-

sional service. These are modern

accommodations with individual

charm and lots of regional character.

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WINE & FOOD

PANNONIA | 57

TaubenkobelCosmopolitan and innovative yet rooted in the region, Walter Eselböck’scuisine is of an unusually high calibre, and he is a master of unusualcombinations. Even after twenty-five years of working wonders in thekitchen, he is still creating unmistakably distinctive dishes, which com-bine in wonderful harmony with the wines recommended by his wife,Eveline. The combination of a perfectly beautiful garden, tastefully deco-rated rooms and a cosy food shop is so perfect they might have beenborn on the pages of Vogue or some stylish architecture magazine.

Hauptstrasse 33, 7081 Schützen am Gebirge tel. +43/(0)2684/2297, www.taubenkobel.at, closed: Mo, TuWine Bars

Landgasthof am Nyikospark

What was once a military officers’ mess has become a theatre for staging outstanding new interpretations of the region’s culinary special-ities. Fritz Tösch serves the finest Pannonian cuisine in his rustic bar,modern winter garden and idyllic outside summer garden. The wine cellar is legendary for having only the best of Burgenland.

Untere Hauptstrasse 59, 7100 Neusiedl am See tel. +43/(0)2167/402 22, www.nyikospark.at, closed: Mo, Tu

– colza, sunflowers, chestnuts, cherries, apples, strawberries,tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers – and in the kitchens ofBurgenland they are turned into wonderful specialities. Thisgood, plain cooking rooted in the soil features cabbages andpeppers along with delicious varieties of fish and fieryHungarian meat dishes. Goulash, noodles with cabbage andonions, belly pork, and roast goose are only a few of the fineand hearty specialities. Buckwheat pancakes with greaves andbacon have also been restored to favour, and the culture ofstrudel is particularly highly developed in Burgenland. Thereare strudels made with beans, spinach, carrots or mushrooms,liver or other meats but also sweet strudels with apples, pop-pyseeds, grapes or strawberries, to mention only a few of themost common.

The wines that grow in the soils of Burgenland are the perfect accompaniment to the cuisine. The most prevalentwhite wines are those made from the fresh and fruity Welsch-riesling grape and the peppery Grüner Veltliner, but Burgen-land also provides fine growing conditions for the morepowerful Burgundy varietals such as Pinot Blanc and Char-donnay. The red wines include a number of elegantlystructured and distinctly minerally types. The Blaufränkischgrape has become the leading variety, but the local Zweigeltand such international varietals as Merlot and Cabernet Sau-vignon thrive here, too. And when it comes to sweet wines,those of Burgenland are of world-class quality.�Ph

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56 | PANNONIA

Glistening in the sunlight, thesloping vineyards look downon the romantic rows of winecellars and the nostalgic draw-

wells, as another Burgenland sunsetglows in the distance, providing the perfect setting for enjoying the province’soutstanding cuisine. Burgenland hasproduced some of Austria’s finest chefs,and with Walter Eselböck at the Tauben-kobel in Schützen at the fore, these cooksare preparing traditional recipes whiletranslating them into the modern age.Some examples? Eselböck serves hislamb with an olive-lemon sauce and puréed garlic, while Gut Purbach’s MaxStiegl, the world’s youngest chef with aMichelin star, combines his sautéedlamb’s liver with puréed celeriac, olives

and capers. Variety is the spice of life. These excellent establishments can be

found from the north to the south of Burgenland, where they have succeededin combining local traditions and inter-national flavours perfectly with oneanother. An extremely wide variety of influ-ences converge in this border region,where the cultural elements of Austria,Hungary, Croatia and Slovakia come together in mutual inspiration. Thevariety is great and colourful, and the opportunities for discovering new andgenuine Pannonian delicacies are almost infinite. The possibilities rangefrom exclusive award-winning restau-rants to familial country inns to bars selling new wine and serving authenticgood, solid food: brown bread with

succulent ham, delicious spreads, blackpudding and belly pork. By the way, it isstill the custom in Burgenland to servethese specialities at the table. The tasteof Burgenland can be found every-where that Pannonian chefs are still turn-ing out their famous regional cuisine.

Culinary traditions play an importantrole in Burgenland, and outstanding local ingredients are at the heart of them.Fantastic fish such as catfish, pike-perch, pike and carp fresh from LakeNeusiedl are famous and popular. Theonce-rare Mangalitsa pig has also re-taken the landscape of the steppes bystorm, and grey cattle, domestic geeseand the beef cattle of Zickental areequally at home. The finest fruits andvegetables flourish in this sunny province

THE CUISINE OF BURGENLAND is alive and well like never before. Some of the coun-

try’s top restaurants now feature Pannonian delicacies with an international flair.

Of course, they don’t neglect the province’s heartier cuisine either, which goes

fabulously with the finest wines of Burgenland.

Of Toques,Chefs and

WINE & FOOD

PANNONIA | 59

TiMiMoo

This pleasantly furnished establishment is truly idyllic. The cleverly devisedinterior matches the well thought-out concept for the cuisine. The essence of beetroot with horseradish dumplings and green pepper foamas well as the zander with black-pudding ravioli are evidence of the focus on fine taste. And the exclusive dishes are matched by an excel-lent wine list.

Hauptstrasse 1, 7071 Rust tel. +43/(0)2685/6162, www.mooslechners.at

Kloster am Spitz

This is a Gesamtkunstwerk , a synthesis of the arts, with a view of LakeNeusiedl, a romantic garden and harmonious cuisine. At Kloster am Spitzthe freshest ingredients are transformed with intuitive feeling and flairinto delightful creations. The fish soup is famous, but other delights,such as chanterelles à la crème, beef cheeks and apricot dumplings, areequally delicious.

Waldsiedlung 2, 7083 Purbach tel. +43/(0)2683/5519, www.klosteramspitz.at, closed: Mo, Tu

Zur Dankbarkeit

The bar and the chestnut garden are among the most pleasant placessurrounding the lake. In this wonderful ambience local cuisine is givenits due: fish soup with peppers, asparagus in the spring and goose in theautumn and winter along with Grammelknödel (crackling dumplings),veal cheeks, Somlauer Nockerln (a popular dessert of Hungarian origin)and Gundel pancakes. These are delicacies that go perfectly with theestablishment’s own fine wines.

Hauptstrasse 39, 7141 Podersdorf tel. +43/(0)2177/2223, www.dankbarkeit.at, closed: We, Th

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Burgenland’s Fine Inns and RestaurantsRedefine the Art of Enjoyment.

What is Pannonian cuisine? The answer can be found ina highly pleasurable manner by dining at one of the numerous Pannonian Schmankerlwirte, an organizationof establishments known for their special delicacies(Schmankerl). Firmly rooted in regional cuisine, these innsand restaurants are a celebration of the Pannonian life-style and hospitality for which Burgenland is famous. Thetraditional dishes are based on the finest ingredients, andBurgenland has an almost endless supply for the Schmankerlwirte members to draw from as they continueto create the finest traditional cuisine.

The canon of Burgenland recipes runs to well over ahundred dishes (the motto is “six times twenty”). Inaddition to the speciality of the house, diners can look for-ward to a lovely selection of other Pannonian delicacies.These include, for example, potato and greaves olive,goose soup, Esterhàzybraten (an aromatic roast beef dish)and Hollerkoch (stewed elderberries). The number “six”also means that members offer at least six Pannonian dishes on their menus, in both classic form and newly interpreted, as well as six Burgenland wines by the glass.

58 | PANNONIA

InameraNatural stone, oleanders and a shady garden underscore the Mediterra-nean flair, which is also found in the lightness and elegance of the cuisine. Andrea Waldrauch and her team serve such delicacies as fillet of catfish with Parmesan froth, lamb perfectly cooked to medium rareand chocolate gâteau with olive marmalade. The fine wine list focuseson Burgenland.

Oggauer Strasse 29, 7071 Rust tel. +43/(0)2685/6473, www.inamera.at, closed: Mo, Tu

Gasthaus Csencsits

This is a traditional inn in its purest form, and Jürgen Csencsits serveslight, unconventional country cuisine. Regional products rooted in thesoil are his trump card, and he uses them in highly successful traditionalrecipes. The personal style of Walter Eselböck’s former second-in-com-mand is unmistakable: delicious creations made from a maximum ofthree ingredients.

7512 Harmisch 13, tel. +43/(0)3366/772 20,www.gasthaus-csencsits.at, closed: Tu, We

Gut PurbachAs the world’s youngest award-winning Michelin chef, Max Stiegl isamong a handful of Austrian cooks responsible for the renaissance of a diverse range of offal dishes. In his spick-and-span country inn datingfrom the year 1628 he turns out very light and modern creations in a variety that extends far beyond offal. His delicious beef, breast of duck, catfish and lamb are also prepared with great skill.

Hauptgasse 64, 7083 Purbachtel. +43/(0)2683/56086, www.gutpurbach.at, closed: Tu, We

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WINE & FOOD

PANNONIA | 61

Fossil

The walls may be old but not the cuisine. In a tastefully restored winecellar in Purbach, Oliver Wiegand has created a fitting setting for thepresentation of dishes that combine international flavours with thoserooted in the local soil. Fawn lights with morels and curd-cheese dump-lings, and fried rabbit with lamb’s lettuce crème are just two examples ofFossil’s fine cuisine.

Kellergasse 6K, 7083 Purbach tel. +43/(0)2683/21025, www.restaurant-fossil.at. closed: We, Th

Wirtshaus im Hofgassl

The atmosphere created by the mulberry tree and fragrant herbs in thecourtyard is highly pleasant, and the cuisine of Michael Pilz features fineMediterranean and Asian-inspired specialities. Examples? Belly pork ofsucking pig in teriyaki marinade and stir-fried vegetables or cardamom-mocha pudding with marinated Thai mangos. Things become a bit moredown to earth with the Alpine brook trout braised in buttermilk.

Rathausplatz 10, 7071 Rusttel. +43/(0)2685/60763, www.hofgassl.at

Presshaus Local cuisine prepared with a light hand awaits diners at Presshaus. Themeal begins with several types of fine bread, followed by such choicedelicacies as carpaccio made from the national park’s Hungarian greybeef, Asian pheasant soup, and chestnut mousse with red-wine plums.The wine list offers an enormous variety of fine domestic and interna-tional wines.

Apetloner Strasse 13, 7142 Illmitz tel. +43/(0)2175/2730, www.presshaus.com

Wachter-Wieslers Ratschen The modern building with its large glass façade and the impressive land-scape create an ideal symbiosis. The restaurant continues the traditionsof southern Burgenland with a sharp focus on the seasons. The estab-lishment’s own outstanding wines are the perfect accompaniment to the fine food, and after the meal, a visit to the wine and food shop isrecommended.

7474 Deutsch Schützen 254tel. +43/(0)3365/20082, www.ratschen.at, closed: Mo, Tu

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60 | PANNONIA

Traube

In addition to the top-drawer wellness facilities offered at Reiter’sBurgenland resort, the Traube restaurant in the Supreme Hotel has twospecial set meals: the “Traube” and the “Supreme”. Both feature crea-tive cuisine with an international touch and harmonious combinations.The kitchen uses lots of fine regional and international ingredients,from Alpine beef to yellowfin tuna.

Am Golfplatz 1, 7431 Bad Tatzmannsdorf tel. +43 (0)3353/8841-0, www.supremehotel.at closed: Tu, We

Mole West

The fashionably glazed interior and the terrace with its wonderful view of Lake Neusiedl are Mole West’s trademark. The cuisine is modern andcreative, and you can be sure that if they serve it here, it will taste good:

risotto with rocket, Italian grana cheese and Moroccan argan oil or theclear fish broth. There is also a remarkable selection of Austrian wines.

7100 Neusiedl am See tel. +43/(0)2167/20205, www.mole-west.at

Horvath

Silvia Horvath prepares cuisine of extremely high quality with flavoursinfluenced by the local region. Her Ritzinger Reindl (a pork-fillet speciality)is legendary, and the other delicacies she turns out are equally enjoyable.The wine list specializes in the Blaufränkisch reds of the region.

Lange Zeile 92, 7323 Ritzing tel. +43/(0)2619/67229, www.restaurant-horvath.at Phot

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DELIGHTFUL BURGENLAND

PANNONIA | 63

come from Scotland to be good. Lagler’sPannonia Blend goes down especiallysmoothly: it’s mild, wonderfully smokyand harmonious.

It’s a good idea to have something inone’s stomach before trying high-octanebeverages, and perhaps some ham fromHans Bauer in Pöttelsdorf would do thetrick? The trained food engineer has developed a wonderful hobby: producingprosciutto and the right red wines to gowith it. His cellar is built of historic Hun-garian brick and has old tools hanging onthe walls. It’s the best place to taste hisWulka ham or the prosciutto he ages for24 months. Even dyed-in-the-wool vege-tarians are tempted by the aroma of thetender meat. Other tasting temptationsare made by Tschürtz in Loipersbach,such as Hammerfleisch (smoked rawham). And while we’re talking aboutmeat, we should not forget JohannSchwarz in Andau. His escalopes, porkknuckles and blood puddings attract aficionados from miles around.True meat fans also dream, of course, ofthe beef cattle grazing around the vil-lages of Heugraben,Eisenhüttl and Rohrin Zickental. Relatedto the Angus of Scot-land, they spend theirlives eating fresh, green

grass and fragrant hay. They matureslowly here, guaranteeing that their meatwill be tender.

There’s no missing the vociferous flockof Christa and Wolfgang Hautzinger’s250 sheep in Tadten. Everything they do here revolves around the sheep, whether it’s making cheese, sausages –smoked or garlic-flavoured – or liver andmeat spreads. All of it is made from oldfamily recipes and in accordance with organic guidelines. Sheep, you see, aregood for a lot more than just counting.

The Hautzingers supply farmers’ mar-kets, supermarkets, Vienna’s Meinl amGraben gourmet shop and such award-winning restaurants as the Taubenkobelin Schützen. Private customers can buyproducts right at the farm.

The fauna of Lake Neusiedl is also backin season. To paraphrase the current atti-tude in local restaurants: “Retro is back.Why bother with lobster, scampi and sea-bass?” The new stars are wels, pike, pike-perch and carp. This is as fresh as it gets,

and you know what you’re getting,too. Kittsee has become qui-

te the fruity place. Back in1924 a nursery here was

unable to pay a local farmerhis wages. Instead ofmoney, they paidhim in apricot trees,

and now the town is famous for having30,000 of them. A final question: what dothe strawberries of Wiesen have to dowith Wimbledon? The answer: strawber-ries and cream are not just a hit in themecca of tennis; strawberry fans swearthat the ones from Wiesen are even bet-ter than Wimbledon’s.

The initiative “Austria: Region of De-light” defines and successfully marketsthe country’s finest regional products. Given the large number of individualsand companies committed to fine foodin Burgenland, it should come as no sur-prise that the programme has already named 13 “Regions of Delight” in the province. For information about the individual “Regions of Delight”: www.genuss-region.at. �

“Regions of Delight” Map

1 Kittsee apricots

2 Lake Neusiedl fish

3 Pannonian Mangalitsa pigs

4 Leithaberg cherries

5 Seewinkel vegetables

6 Lake Neusiedl-Seewinkel

National Park longhorn cattle

7 Wiesen strawberries

8 Central Burgenland chestnuts

and walnuts

9 Central Burgenland spelt

10Southern Burgenland herbs

11 Zickental beef cattle

12 Southern Burgenland apples

13 Southern Burgenland geese

From left to right

� The King of Tomatoes: in

Frauenkirchen Erich Stekovics culti-

vates some 3200 heirloom varieties.

� Hans “the Butcher” Schwarz is

passionate about his calling and sells

only the finest pork knuckles, blood

puddings and other specialities.

� The Lagler family’s apple orchard:

their distillery in southern Burgenland

is known for its world-class spirits.

Prosciutto & Pannonia

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62 | PANNONIA

The “disciples” of former theol-ogy student Erich Stekovics arered, yellow and green, and as he tastes them, he’s likely to

utter some wonderful phrase, such as:“Taste is the loveliest proof that heavenexists”.We’re talking here about tomatoesthat taste more like kiwis, melons or sugar beets and that bear such fairytalenames as Golden Sphere, Orange Queenand Justin Sugarsweet. As the recognizedking of tomatoes, Stekovics has some3200 ancient varieties that he has broughtback to life in his fields near Frauen-kirchen. It’s the biggest collection in theworld of what the French once called the“apples of love”. They are available forpurchase as delicacies put up in smalljars, and customers at the Stekovics farmshop are spoilt for choice among themany varieties of tomatoes that comepickled, dried, preserved in oil or in theform of chutney or tomato sauce. AndStekovics is already working on his nextproject: the traditional geese of Frauen-kirchen will soon be dining in his orchards filled with a thousand trees ofold varieties, such as white and blackmulberries, wild apricots and Maschan-sker apples.

The geese are in keeping with a tradi-tion dating back hundreds of years, although by the 1960s they had practi-

cally disappeared from the villages ofBurgenland. It was not until 2002 that agroup of bright and open-minded farmers in southern Burgenland bandedtogether to reintroduce them. Theiraim was to create an environment where the animals would feel right athome and have all the lush green mea-dow grass they could eat. Their meat is a dream: juicy and tender with a lowfat content.

Another farmer with a special relationship to tomatoes is Richard Triebaumer of Rust. His aromatic bombsof flavour are wonderful in his home-made sugo arrabiata tomato sauce, butequally excellent are his prune-oliveand pepper-lime butters as well as thefantastic jams he makes from late redapples, rowan berries and wild cherries.And because something spicy tastesnice after something sweet, one shouldtry Triebaumer’s sausages made fromfree-range and Mangalitsa pigs or froma combination of pork and kid. And howabout a vanilla-walnut liqueur to top it off?

Another possibility, of course, is Lagler in Kukmirn, which has so manydifferent varieties of distilled spiritsand liqueurs that it almost makes one’shead spin. Whiskey is also on offer, andone sip is enough to convince even themost sceptical fan: it doesn’t have to

BURGENLAND MAINTAINS

a number of unique

culinary traditions, from

succulent hams to spar-

kling spirits to long-

forgotten varieties

of tomatoes.

Of Pommes d’amour,

� Although geese had almost disap-peared from Burgenland by the late20th century, they have a long traditionas one of the province’s economicallyuseful animals.

PARADISE PRODUCTS

PANNONIA | 65

the Paradise members display the greencloverleaf as a symbol of their member-ship and of the high quality and authen-ticity of their products.

Behind the “Piece of Paradise” initia-tive are people with a great sense of pas-sion for their region and its products.They have drawn up a varied and uniqueprogramme for visitors. A personal “Pieceof Paradise” is here for the taking and enjoyment of everyone, from pleasure-loving individuals to group travellers tofamilies large and small. Tailor-made“Paradise” tours give visitors an oppor-tunity to become acquainted with theland and people and to try the local cul-inary delicacies. There are farms offeringbaking courses to teach visitors how tomake healthy bread, while the local con-fectioners can show them simple tricksfor turning out beautiful biscuits or filled chocolates. The wide-ranging offer alsoincludes guided tours to some of the region’s cultural highlights. For sportsfans there are manicured tennis courtsand golf courses, and countless kilome-

tres of cycle paths are available for dis-covering the region’s unspoilt nature. Andwhile the adults devote themselves totheir chosen activity or relax and let theworld go by at one of the hotel wellnessoases, the kids can set off on an organ-ized adventure trek or explore new flavours and aromas at a juice-tasting ses-sion. In keeping with the spirit of the times, there are special offers for companies at a number of hotels offeringeverything needed for staging a success-ful seminar. Paradise Compass is a com-pact brochure with descriptions of theindividual members and everythingthat each has to offer. It has not only theright addresses for enjoying a holiday in paradise but also numerous tips for where to go and what to do. Of course itincludes all the information you needabout the delicious products made bythe Paradise members and where to get them, but there is also a calendar listing all the events and tasting sessionsthe Paradise producers stage throughoutthe year.�

TIP: Come to Paradise

Once a year southern Burgenland is trans-formed into a tasting paradise. On the thirdweekend in May, Paradise members opentheir doors and invite visitors to taste theirculinary treasures, including the outstandinglocal wines. At the same time, pleasure-lovingvisitors can have a peek behind the scenes atthe individual producers.

For more about Paradise go to www.ein-stueck-vom-paradies.at or phone +43/(0)664/108 58 88.

� Thanks to the extremely wide variety of basic products from independent producers, the Paradise Initiative is constantly

introducing new delicacies: Bischof ’s handmade noodles, for example, which have been improved by the addition of

Wachter-Wiesler’s Blaufränkisch Béla-Jóska. But the long list also includes pickled delicacies, fine spirits, homemade baked

desserts and filled chocolates as well as sparkling wines.

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64 | PANNONIA

Asurvey of the most excitingareas of Austria worthy ofdiscovery and explorationwould certainly include

southern Burgenland among the favour-ites. Visitors to the area will discover con-ditions that can only be described as paradisiacal, which makes the name ofthe initiative – “A Piece of Paradise” –only logical. But what is it exactly? In 2004 a number of leading producersin southern Burgenland joined togetherto introduce their region and productsto a broader public. Some of these so-called “Paradise” producers operatemodern hotels with all the amenities,run comfortable guest houses with ruralflair, or offer holidays on the farm, for example. Some of the Paradise pro-

ducers are wine growers whose fine wines are widely known beyond theboundaries of their region and whosevineyards do much to enhance the idyl-lic local landscape. Others are again pro-ducing delicacies typical of the region ontheir farms or in their small businesses.The restaurants, inns and wine bars thatbelong to the initiative serve as “meltingpots” for the culinary delicacies suppliedby Paradise producers. In preparingtheir fine dishes, they primarily use pro-ducts from their partner businessesand serve them with the outstanding wines, fruit juices and distillates madeby others. Delicious breads and sweettemptations come from traditional bakeries and some of the finest confectioners in the country. All of

Invitationto Paradise

SOME 35 FOOD PRODUCERS,restaurateurs and hoteliers in southern Burgenland aregiving new stimulus to thehospitality and culinary qual-ity of their region with their“Piece of Paradise” initiative.

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SERVICE

66 | PANNONIA

Contact data:

Burgenland TourismusBurgenland Tourist BoardJohann Permayer-Strasse 13A-7000 EisenstadtAustria+43/(0)2682/63384-0info@burgenland.infowww.burgenland.info

Wein BurgenlandEsterházystrasse 15A-7000 EisenstadtAustria

+43/(0)2682/702 631 wein@weinburgenland.at www.weinburgenland.at

MastheadPublisher: LW Werbe- und Verlags GmbH, Unternehmensbereich LW Media, Ringstrasse 44/1, A-3500 Krems. In cooperation with Burgenland Tourismus, Johann Permayer-Strasse 13, A-7000 Eisenstadt, Project manager: Carina Predl.

Project manager LW: Prok. Alexandra Salvinetti, Editor-in-chief: Peter Schleimer, Cover photo: Burgenland Tourismus/Manfred Horvath - Typical BurgenlandKellerstöckl (winegrower's house with cellar), Graphic design: Manfred Kriegleder,Translation: John Winbigler. Printer: Ferdinand Berger & Söhne GmbH, Wiener Strasse 8, A-3580 HornDespite careful editing no responsibility is taken for the accuracy of this information.All rights reserved. Reproduction and duplication, in whole or in part, is prohibited without the express permission of the publisher.

Travelling in BurgenlandTHE FOLLOWING CONTACT ADDRESSES will be useful in

securing additional information about Burgenland:

winegrowers’ addresses, tourist offers, sights, events, etc.

Brochures are also available on request.

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Passionate about opera, soprano ILDIKÓ RAIMONDI for Burgenland. www.burgenland.info

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