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STUDY DENIM SHRINKAGE & EVALUATION Mansoor Faiz Cheema

Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

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Page 1: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

STUDY

DENIM SHRINKAGE &

EVALUATION

Mansoor Faiz Cheema

Page 2: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

1 SHRINKAGE

The term shrinkage can simply be defined as a change in the dimensions of a fabric or

garment. This dimensional change may be in a positive (growth) or negative (shrinkage)

direction for fabric length, width, and thickness. For a cotton fabric, shrinkage relates to the loss

of the length and/or width dimensions.

Shrinkage is a dimensional change in a fabric or garment caused by an application of a

force, energy, or a change in environment that either allows the goods to relax or forces the

fabric to move in a given direction. When yarns are woven into fabrics they are subjected to

considerable tensions, particularly in warp direction. In subsequent finishing processes such as

calendaring, this stretch may be increased and temporarily set into the fabric. The fabric is then

in a state of dimensional instability, subsequently when the fabric is thoroughly wetted it tends to

revert its more stable dimensions which results in the contraction of yarns. This effect is usually

greater in warp direction than in weft direction.

1.1 Types of shrinkage:

There are number of different causes of dimensional change. Some of which are

connected to one another. Relaxation shrinkage can affect any fiber type. Following types of

dimensional change are generally recognized.

Hygral expansion

Relaxation shrinkage

Swelling shrinkage

Felting shrinkage

Hygral expansion: It is a property of fabrics made from fibers that absorb moisture, in

particular fabrics made from wool. It is a reversible change in dimensions which takes place

when the moisture regain of a fabric is altered.

Relaxation shrinkage: It is the irreversible dimensional change accompanying the release of

fiber stresses imparted during manufacture which have been set by combined effect of time,

finishing treatments and physical restraints within the structure.

Swelling shrinkage: It results from swelling and de-swelling of the constituent fibers of a

fabric due to the absorption and desorption of water.

Page 3: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Felting shrinkage: It results from the frictional properties of component fibers which cause

them to migrate within the structure. This behavior is normally considered to be significant only

for fibers having scale on their surface such as wool.

Shrinkage and the cause of shrinkage can be further defined or broken down into two

different types:

Construction shrinkage

Processing shrinkage.

This means that shrinkage is affected by the construction parameters of the fabric, and it is

also affected by the forces applied in processing in the dyeing and finishing departments as well

as the apparel manufacturing facility.

1.2 Construction Shrinkage:

After cotton fabric is constructed on a knitting machine or weaving loom, it has inherent

characteristics based solely on the yarn construction variables used. These characteristics or

conditions affect various specifications including shrinkage. The type of shrinkage measured at

this point is defined as construction shrinkage. Construction shrinkage is defined as the amount

of dimensional change in a fabric based solely on the construction variables used to create the

fabric.

1.3 Processing Shrinkage:

All processing steps in a finishing and garment wet processing plant affect the

dimensions of a product. Some techniques have more impact than others. These steps create

processing shrinkage, which can be defined as the dimensional change that a process adds to or

removes from the construction shrinkage of a fabric. Length and width dimensions are both

affected, and the fabrics may either be stretched or consolidated. Most often, the length is

stretched and the width is reduced during finishing process. Some of this shrinkage is composed

of elastic shrinkage and can be easily recovered while some of the change in dimensions may not

be recovered, because the elastic limits of the fabric as constructed have been exceeded.

In today’s modern finishing plants, methods are used to attempt to overcome processing

shrinkage and reduce construction shrinkage. The dimensions of fabrics can become set while

Page 4: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

they are deformed if they are subjected to a suitable process. Fibers that absorb water can be set

if they are deformed while in the wet state and then dried at those dimensions. Thermoplastic

fibers can be set if they are deformed at a comparatively high temperature and then allowed to

cool in the deformed state. The set may be temporary or permanent depending on the severity of

the setting conditions. During relaxation shrinkage it is temporary set that is released. It is

generally the case that deformation that has been set can be released by a more severe treatment

that than the setting treatment.

1.4 Factors affecting shrinkage:

There are many factors that relate to shrinkage. These include the

Fiber type

Yarn size and type

Construction variables

Wet processes

Finishing procedures

Apparel manufacturing techniques

Garment care methods

Cellulosic fibers are not as easily stabilized as are thermoplastic synthetics, because they

cannot be heat set to attain stability. The comfort and overall appeal of cotton has resulted in

greater demand by the consumer and by usage in the textile industry. Therefore, the relaxation of

fabrics made with cotton fibers requires either mechanical and/or chemical means for

stabilization.

The manner by which fibers are oriented in a yarn will affect certain properties of the

fabric including shrinkage. Cotton singles yarns of high twist will usually yield higher shrinkage

values than yarns of lower twist levels and will certainly yield greater skewing or torqueing.

Different constructions can have significantly different shrinkage characteristics.

Finishing procedures may reduce or increase the dimensional stability of the fabric. If relaxation

dryers, compactors, and/or cross linking agents are used, then the residual shrinkage after wet

processing can be reduced

Page 5: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 1.1

Apparel manufacturing processes often increase the level of shrinkage in a fabric. The

laying down of the layers for cutting and the physical manipulation of the panels in sewing are

examples of where shrinkage values can be increased. In fact, garments comprised of different

fabric constructions may have some panels relax with handling in cut-and-sew while other panels

may grow.

Garment care labeling and laundering practices will have a direct influence on shrinkage

performance. If the label calls for line or flat drying, then mostly elastic shrinkage will affect

performance.

In denim industry the shrinkage is the major problem. The excessive shrinkage level is

undesirable for the fabrics to be made into the garments and is usually controlled in finishing

processes.

1.5 Compressive shrinkage:

This is a mechanical finishing process that is used in denim industry. Compressive shrinkage is

defined as any operation performed to improve the fabric appearance or function by physical

Page 6: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

manipulation, Steam or heat may be accompanied the physical manipulation; however chemicals

and other lubricants are seldom used. The method includes drying, compaction, and/or chemical

processes.

Fabric properties affected by the process are

Luster

Smoothness

Softness

Residual shrinkage

Hand

In a few mills compressive shrinking of denim fabric is carried out in a separate range. A

heavy duty shrinkage machine is used for shrinking of denim fabric up to 14 – 17%.While others

use the integrated finishing range.

Integrated finishing and shrinkage:

In integrated finishing range finishing of denim fabric is carried out in a single range. In this

process the fabric is first passed through the brushing and singeing unit to remove the loose fluff

and lint from fabric surface and then padded to apply finish to the fabric. Many different

softeners and finishes are available which are suitable to denim fabric.

The fabric is then stretched by passing through two pulling devices and then skewed. After

skewing it is passed through the drying cylinders for partial drying of fabric. Subsequently the

fabric runs through a compressive shrinkage unit followed by drying and calendaring.

Sanforizing:

Mechanical compacting is one method of reducing residual shrinkage. The process forces the

yarns closer together and fabric becomes thicker and heavier. As a result of this the net residual

shrinkage reduces. The term Sanforized is a registered trademark and is used to market the fabric

that meets certain shrinkage specifications.

Fabric is passed through the sanforizer head followed by the steam heated cylinders used to set

the Sanforized or shrink fabric. The key to any compacter is head where the force is applied to

move the parallel yarns closer together. More length of fabric must be fed into the Head than the

delivered one.

A sanforizer actually uses a thick rubber blanket running against a steam heated cylinder.

This thick blanket goes over a small diameter roller which stretches the convex surface of

Page 7: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

blanket. Fabric is passed outer the stretched blanket and the fabric and blanket come together in

contact with the steam heated cylinder. At that point the rubber surface contracts to its original

length and is forced to contract an additional amount as it forms the concave configuration of

heated drum ultimately the yarns in fabric become closed.

1.6 Parameters for process control:

The main parameters that affect the shrinkage level are

Moisture

Pressure between the roller and rubber belt

Due to the continuous stretching and relaxing of blanket, heat is generated. The blanket is

then cooled by spraying water on it after the fabric has been delivered through the unit. The

degree of shrinkage is controlled by the thickness of blanket. For better results the degree of

compactness is pre-determined which is done by characterizing the shrinkage behavior of fabric

by laundering. Degree of compacting should not exceed the degree of shrinkage.

Page 8: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2 SHRINKAGE EVALUATION

The shrinkage is evaluated by conducting the physical washing tests.

2.1 Construction Shrinkage

The following procedure is adopted for construction shrinkage measurement & evaluation;

Samples are made of the fabric manufactured.

The samples are marked with the help of AATCC standard scale with the help of textile

marker.

The samples are over-locked to avoid fraying during washing.

After marking samples are conditioned

The samples are washed by three home launderings (3HL).

After drying, samples are again conditioned.

In the end, shrinkage is measured for both warp and weft dimensions.

Samples:

25inch × 25inch

Marked at 18inch × 18inch.

Conditioning of Samples:

Temperature 21oC ± 1

oC

Relative humidity 65% ± 2%

Time 4 hours before wash and 4 hours after wash

Machines used for 3HL

Kenmore

Vascator

Page 9: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Three home Laundering

Recipe:

Chemicals Quantity

Sodium per borate 1g/l

ECE 3.85 g/l

Liquid Detergent 45 ml

Conditions:

Temperature 40

o for stretchable denim

60o for rigid denim

Time 67 min for every washing cycle

Procedure:

Water and chemicals are loaded in the machine.

Samples are also added.

Then the machine is put into running position and samples are washed under the above

mentioned conditions.

After one complete washing cycle fabric samples are unloaded and dried.

Then the samples are again put into the machine and the whole procedure is repeated.

After the completion of second cycle, the samples are again dried and the cycle is

repeated for the third time.

Shrinkage Test:

After washing and conditioning the fabric samples are measured on marks with the help

of same scale.

Shrinkage percentage is calculated in both warp and weft directions by using the formula:

Shrinkage % = Change in length × 100

Original Length

Page 10: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.1.1 Shrinkage in Rigid and Stretch Denim

Denim fabric without any stretch properties are known as rigid denim.

Stretch denim fabrics have pronounced values of stretch. These are made up of the yarns

having elastomeric core.

Fabric

no. Count

Fabric

Type

Denier+

draft Picks/inch

Weave

Type

Shrinkage (%)

Warp Weft

1 10 Ne Rigid - 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -13

Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -7.23 -24.84

2 14 Ne Rigid - 40 3/1 Z twill -2 -12.3

Lycra 70 + 3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -3.7 -21.9

Table 2.1.1

Figure 2.1.1

Shrinkage (%) behaivior of Rigid n

Stretch Denim in warp

-8

-7

-6

-5

-4

-3

-2

-1

0

Rig

id

Lycra

Shrinkage (

%)

10 Ne

14 Ne

Page 11: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.1.2

Conclusion:

By comparing the fabrics, it is concluded that stretch denim shrinks more than rigid denim,

as core-spun yarn undergo more tensions during yarn manufacturing and weaving of fabric.

So stretch denim tends to shrink more when it acquires relax state.

Shrinkage (%) behaivior between Rigid

n Stretch denim in Weft

-30

-25

-20

-15

-10

-5

0

Rig

id

Lyc

ra

Sh

rin

kag

e (%

)

10 Ne

14 Ne

Page 12: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.1.2 Shrinkage in Stretch Denim due to varying Picks per Inch

No. of

Observations Count Denier+Draft Picks/inch

Weave

Type

Shrinkage

Warp Weft

1

10 lycra 70+3.91 40

3/1 Z-

twill -6.5 -23

10

spandex 70+3.91 40

3/1 Z-

twill -5 -22.13

10 lycra

slub 70+3.91 40

3/1 Z-

twill -4.12 -24.5

2

10 lycra 70+3.91 44

3/1 Z-

twill -5.37 -19.5

10

spandex 70+3.91 44

3/1 Z-

twill -4.5 -20.25

10 lycra

slub 70+3.91 44

3/1 Z-

twill -4.5 -22.5

Table 2.1.2

Figure 2.1.3

Shrinkage in Warp due to Picks per inch

-7

-6

-5

-4

-3

-2

-1

0

10 lycra

10

spandex

10 lycra

slu

b

Sh

rin

ka

ge

(%

)

40 Picks

per inch

44 Picks

per inch

Page 13: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.1.4

Conclusion:

By varying the picks per inch in different stretch denim fabrics, shrinkage percentage is

varied. Due to Increase in no. of picks per inch, shrinkage percentage will decrease. Due to

more picks per inch, there will be less space for the yarns to relax after swelling that’s why

shrinkage decreases.

Shrinkage in weft by varying Picks per

inch

-30

-25

-20

-15

-10

-5

0

10 lycra

10

spandex

10 lycra

slu

b

Sh

rin

kag

e(%

)

40 picks

per inch

44 picks

per inch

Page 14: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.1.3 Shrinkage due to varying Draft and Denier

Fabric

no. Count

Denier+

draft Picks

Weave

Type

Shrinkage (%)

Warp Weft

1

10 Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -23

10 Spandax 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -5 -22.13

10 Lycra slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -4.12 -24.5

2

10 Lycra 40+3.24 40 3/1 Z twill -6.23 -20.5

10 Spandax 40+3.25 40 3/1 Z twill -4.87 -18.75

10 Lycra slub 40+3.25 40 3/1 Z twill -4.2 -18.77

Table 2.1.3

Figure 2.1.5

Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Draft+Denier

-7

-6

-5

-4

-3

-2

-1

0

10 L

ycra

10

Spa

ndax

10 L

ycra

slub

Sh

rin

kag

e (

%)

70+3.91

40+3.24

Page 15: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.1.6

Conclusion:

Denier and draft values directly affect the shrinkage behavior of stretch denim. More is the

draft values, more will be shrinkage. The level of stretch-ability of yarn depends on the given

draft and fabric made of highly stretched yarns will relax more and hence the shrinkage % of

fabric will increase as there are more tensions on the yarns.

Shrinkage (%) in Weft due to

Draft+Denier

-30

-25

-20

-15

-10

-5

0

10 L

ycra

10

Spandax

10 L

ycra

slu

b

Shrinkage(%

)

70+3.91

40+3.24

Page 16: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.1.4 Shrinkage due to varying Weft Count

No. of

Observations Count

Type of

Yarn

Denier +

Draft Picks/inch

Weave

Type

Shrinkage

Warp Weft

1 10

Single

Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -6.5 -23

Spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -5 -22.13

Lycra

Slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4.12 -24.5

2 14

Single

Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -6.1 -19.89

Spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4.4 -21.13

Lycra

Slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -4 -21.5

Table 2.1.4

Figure 2.1.7

Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Weft

Count

-7

-6

-5

-4

-3

-2

-1

0

Lyc

ra

Sp

an

de

x

Lyc

ra

Slu

b

Sh

rin

kag

e (

%)

10 Single

14 Single

Page 17: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.1.8

Conclusion:

By comparing the fabrics having same construction (picks per inch) but different counts,

we concluded that coarser the yarn count more will be the shrinkage in fabric. Due to the

coarse yarn counts, there is more swelling in the yarns which tend to contract the fabric.

Shrinkage in weft due to Weft Count

-25

-20

-15

-10

-5

0

Lyc

ra

Sp

an

de

x

Lyc

ra

Slu

b

Shrinkage (

%)

10 Single

14 Single

Page 18: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.1.5 Shrinkage Due to varying Yarn Types

Trial No. Count Fabric Type

Denier+ draft

Picks/inch Weave Type

Shrinkage (%)

Warp Weft

1

10 Ne

Cotton lycra

70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill

-6.5 -23

2 Poly lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill

-6.1 -19.8

Table 2.1.5

Figure 2.1.9

Shrinkage (%) in Warp due to Yarn

Type

-6.6

-6.5

-6.4

-6.3

-6.2

-6.1

-6

-5.9

Cotton lycra Poly lycra

Sh

rin

ka

ge

(%

)

Page 19: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.1.10

Conclusion:

It is concluded that fabric made of cotton Lycra will shrink more than poly Lycra. This

is due to the reason that cotton has more affinity for the water than polyester so it will absorb

more moisture which results in more swelling of yarns; hence there is more shrinkage in fabric.

Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Yarn

Type

-24

-23

-22

-21

-20

-19

-18

Cotton lycra Poly lycra

Sh

rin

ka

ge

(%

)

Page 20: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.1.6 Shrinkage (%) due to varying Weave Type

No. of

Observations

Count Denier

+ Draft Picks/inch

Weave

Type

Shrinkage

(%)

Warp Weft

1

10 lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill -6.5 -23

10

spandex 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill

-5 -22.13

10 lycra

slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z-twill

-4.12 -24.5

2

10 lycra 70+3.91 40 2/1 Z-twill -5.4 -18.7

10

spandex 70+3.91 40 2/1 Z-twill

-4.7 -19.38

10 lycra

slub 70+3.91 40 2/1 Z-twill

-4 -21

Table 2.1.6

Figure 2.1.11

Shrinkage(%) in Warp due to Weave

Type

-8-7-6

-5-4-3-2

-10

10 lycra

10

spandex

10 lycra

slu

b

Sh

rin

ka

ge

(%

)

3/1 Z-twill

2/1 Z-twill

Page 21: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.1.12

Conclusion:

The results shows that stretch denim fabric worth 3/1 twill shrinks more than 2/1 twill

denim as 3/1 twill has loose structure and more spaces.

Shrinkage(%) in Weft due to Weave

Type

-25

-20

-15

-10

-5

0

10 lycra

10

spandex

10 lycra

slu

b

Sh

rin

ka

ge

(%

)

3/1 Z-twill

2/1 Z-twill

Page 22: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.1.7 Shrinkage (%) due to Slub Yarns

Fabric

no. Count

Denier+

draft Picks

Weave

Type

Shrinkage

(%)

Warp Weft

1 10 Lycra 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -6.5 -23

2 10 Lycra

slub 70+3.91 40 3/1 Z twill -4.12 -24.5

Table 2.1.7

Figure 2.1.13

Shrinkage (%) in warp in Lycra and lycra

-7

-6

-5

-4

-3

-2

-1

0

10 Lycra 10 Lycra slub

Sh

rin

kag

e (

%)

Page 23: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.1.14

Conclusion:

Slub swells more when soaked in water. So due to more swellness, shrinkage in

yarn will be more.

Shrinkage (%) in weft in Lycra and Lycra

slub

-25

-24.5

-24

-23.5

-23

-22.5

-22

10 Lycra 10 Lycra slub

Sh

rin

kag

e (

%)

Page 24: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.2 PROCESSING SHRINKAGE

The following procedure is adopted for process shrinkage measurement & evaluation;

Samples are taken as for construction shrinkage.

For finished fabric, 3HL washing is done at same conditions as in construction shrinkage.

Studying washing conditions like temperature, washing cycles and washing types, 3HL is

done.

Time is studied in Industrial washes.

Conditions:

Temperature 40oC, 49

oC, 60

oC

Time 25 min, 40 min, 55 min

INDUSTRIAL WASHES:

Rinse Wash:

Recipe

Chemicals Quality

Detergent (CP) 100ml

Softener (Belfacin) 200ml

Enzyme (Aquazyme) 50ml

Acid 400ml

Conditions:

Time 15min

Temperature 60~70oC

pH 6~7

Page 25: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Stone Wash:

Recipe

Chemical Quantity

Old Stone 5 kg

New Stone 5kg

Enzyme ( Valumax ) 150kg

Acid 400ml

Water 120 gallon

Conditions

Time 30~40 min

Temperature 60oC

pH 5~6

Bleaching:

Recipe

Chemicals Quantity

Water 150litre

Bleaching Powder Bleaching Liquid (H2O2) 300g 500ml

Conditions:

Time 10min

Temperature 50oC

Page 26: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Neutralization:

Recipe

CHEMICALS QUANTITIES

Sodium Meta bisulphite (Na2S2O5) 350ml

Water 150 liter

Tint Wash:

Recipe:

CHEMICALS QUANTITIES

Direct Dye 0.5gm

Salt 1kg

Softener (NI) 60ml

Water 150 liter

Conditions:

Time 10min

Temperature 70oC

FABRICS USED FOR PROCESSING SHRINKAGE

Fabric No. Warp Count Weft Count Ends/inch Picks/inch Weave Type

F1 9.2 14/1+30D 64 48 2/1 RHT

F2 6.3 16/1+40D 68 44 2/1 RHT

F3 9 9/1+70D 64 45 2/1 RHT

Table 2.2

Page 27: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.2.1 Shrinkage (%)due to varying Washing Time

Fabric No. Weight (oz

per sq. yd) Time (min)

Shrinkage %

Warp Weft

F1

10.3 25 -0.9 -5.3

10.5 40 -1.5 -5.5

10.7 55 -1.8 -5.8

F2

11.4 25 -0.44 -10.1

11.5 40 -1 -10.5

11.8 55 -1.5 -10.9

F3

10.8 25 -2.4 -4.3

11 40 -2.8 -4.5

11.3 55 -3.9 -5

Table 2.2.1

Page 28: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.2.1

Figure 2.2.2

Conclusion:

The comparison of shrinkage % at different washing time’s shows by increasing the washing

time, shrinkage % tends to increase.

Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing time

-5

-4

-3

-2

-1

0

25 40 55Time (min)

Sh

rin

kag

e (

%)

F1

F2

F3

Shrinkage (%) in weft due to washing time

-12

-10

-8

-6

-4

-2

0

25 40 55Time (min)

Shrinkage (

%)

F1

F2

F3

Page 29: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.2.2 Shrinkage (%) due to varying Temperature

Fabric

No.

Weight (oz

per sq. yd)

Temperature

(oC)

Shrinkage %

Warp Weft

F1

10.5 40 -0.4 -5.8

10.6 49 -1 -6.1

10.9 60 -1.9 -6.3

F2

11.6 40 -1.4 -10.8

11.7 49 -1.7 -11.4

11.8 60 -2 -11.9

F3

10.7 40 -2.4 -2.6

10.9 49 -2.6 -3.3

11 60 -2.9 -5

Table 2.2.2

Page 30: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.2.3

Figure 2.2.4

Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing

Temperature

-4

-3

-2

-1

0

40 49 60Temperature (oC)

Sh

rin

kag

e (

%)

F1

F2

F3

Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Washing

Temperature

-14

-12

-10

-8

-6

-4

-2

0

40 49 60

Temperature (oC)

Sh

rin

kag

e (

%)

F1

F2

F3

Page 31: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.2.3 Shrinkage (%) due to different Washing Cycles

Fabric

No.

Weight (oz

per sq. yd)

Washing

Cycle

Shrinkage %

Warp Weft

F1

10.4 1 HL -0.37 -2.38

10.6 3 HL -1 -6.1

F2

11.53 1 HL -0.62 -4.69

11.7 3 HL -1.7 -11.4

F3

10.8 1 HL -1.5 -1.73

10.9 3 HL -2.6 -3.3

Table 2.2.3

Figure 2.2.5

Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing

Cycles

-3

-2.5

-2

-1.5

-1

-0.5

0

1 HL 3 HL

Washing Cycle

Sh

rin

ka

ge

(%

)

F1

F2

F3

Page 32: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.2.6

Conclusion:

The comparison of shrinkage % at different washing cycles shows that shrinkage % tends to

increase by increasing no. of washing cycles.

Shrinkage (%) in weft due to Washing

Cycles

-12

-10

-8

-6

-4

-2

0

1 HL 3 HL

Washing Cycles

Sh

rin

ka

ge

(%

)F1

F2

F3

Page 33: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.2.4 Shrinkage (%)due to Washing Type

Fabric

No.

Weight

(oz per

sq. yd)

Washing Type Shrinkage (%)

Warp Weft

F1

10.6 3 HL -1 -6.1

10.7 Industrial Wash -1.8 -5.8

F2

11.7 3 HL -1.7 -11.4

11.8 Industrial Wash -1.9 -11.8

F3

10.9 3 HL -2.6 -3.3

11.3 Industrial Wash -3.9 -5

Table 2.2.4

Figure 2.2.7

Shrinkage (%) in warp due to Washing Types

-4.5

-4

-3.5

-3

-2.5

-2

-1.5

-1

-0.5

0

3 HL Industrial Wash

Washing Types

Sh

rin

ka

ge

(%

) F1

F2

F3

Page 34: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.2.8

Conclusion:

As industrial washing compose of many washing types and cycles with varying washing

conditions, so sometimes the shrinkage values are higher for industrial wash.

Shrinkage (%) in weft in Washing type

-14

-12

-10

-8

-6

-4

-2

0

3 HL Industrial Wash

Washing Type

Sh

rin

ka

ge

(%

)

F1

F2

F3

Page 35: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

2.2.5 Shrinkage % due to different Industrial Washing Types

First Wash:

First wash may include any of these washing types depending upon desired look and

properties as demanded by the customer:

Rinse Wash

Rinse and Stone wash

Rinse and Stone wash with softener

Rinse and Stone wash with tint.

Rinse and Stone Wash with tint and softener.

FABRIC 1:

Washing

Type

Weight (oz

per sq. yd)

Shrinkage %

Warp Weft

Rinse Wash 10.2 0.4 -4

Rinse + Stone

Wash 10.5 0 -6.6

Rinse + Stone

Wash +

Softener

10.6 -1.4 -7.9

Rinse +Stone

+ Tint Wash 10.5 -1.3 -7.8

Rinse + Stone

+ Tint Wash +

Softener

10.5 -1.5 -7.9

Table 2.2.5

Page 36: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Figure 2.2.9

Second wash:

After first wash, any one or more of the following washes can be done according to the

look and properties demanded by the customer. The second wash includes:

Rinse and Bleach wash

Bleach wash with Neutralization

Bleach wash and Neutralization with Tint wash

Bleach wash and Neutralization with Softener

Bleach wash and Neutralization with Tint and Softener

Shrinkage in Fabric Samples due to

Different washing types

-10

-8

-6

-4

-2

0

2

Rin

se W

ash

Rin

se+S

tone

Was

h

Rin

se+S

tone

Was

h +

Sof

tner

Rin

se+S

tone

+Tin

t

Was

h

Rin

se+S

tone

+Tin

t

Was

h +

Sof

tner

Washing Types

Shr

inka

ge (%

)

Warp

Weft

Page 37: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation

Fabric 1:

Washing Type Weight (oz

per sq. yd)

Shrinkage %

Warp Weft

Rinse + Bleach Wash 9.9 -1.3 -4.4

Bleach Wash + Neutralization 10 -1.6 -4.3

Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Tint 10.3 -1 -5.5

Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Softener 10.4 -1.1 -5.4

Bleach Wash + Neutralization + Tint + Softener 10.5 -1.3 -6

Table 2.2.6

Figure 2.2.10

Conclusion:

Shrinkage behavior is different for the different industrial washes depending the

procedure and combination of washes under which fabric go through. The different washing

types depend upon the customer requirement.

Shrinkage (%) in Fabric Sample due to Different Washes

-7

-6

-5

-4

-3

-2

-1

0

Rinse + Bleach

Wash

Bleach + Nuetra

lizatio

n

Bleach + Nuetra

lizatio

n + Tint

Bleach + Nuetra

lizatio

n + Softener

Bleach + Nuetra

lizatio

n + Tint + Softe

ner

Sh

rin

ka

ge

(%

)

Warp

Weft

Page 38: Denim Shrinkage & Evaluation