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Rattlesnake contactforetells good timesAIan KatzDenver Post Statf Writer

ell-wishers andcuriosity-seekersgathered at the TivoliWednesday night forthe opening of Denver's

most daring new restaurant. Withexpensive Jasper Johns and DavidHoctney prints mounted onunfinished walls revealing theravages of the oldbrewery's past,the Rattlesnake Club has thebombedout look of opulence inwartime. Opened at a cost of about$3 million, it embraces the ideathat a modern restaurant should beplayful.

Oumed by Bevans Branham,lllichael ltlcCarty and JimmySchmldt, and designed byCommunlcation Arts of Boulder,it's a large, skylight-covered spacewith three floors encompassing agiant copper brewing vat and greatarched windows tlnt overlook theDenver slryline.

The a la carte menu changesdaily and features contemporaryAmerican cqtsine prepared bySchmidt, who gained uationalprominence as the head chef atDetroit's London Chop House.Since most entrees range in pricefrom about $16 to $19, the averagedinner tab will hover around $40per person for dinner, wine and tiP.

The soup I ordered on openingnight, a bowl of shellfish bisque($4.50), was loaded with hugechunks of fresh lobster, includingan entire shelled cliaw. I followedthat with angel hairpasta with aIime sauce, topped with grilledshrlmp, sweet pepper and avocado.Both soup and pasta werestupendously good.

The entrees included swordfishwith macadamia nuts andchampagne, escallop of salmonwlth cogpac and mustard sauce,medallions of lamb with red onionand pepper sauce and smoked Porkchops with sauteed onions andapples, served with pecanpancakes.

fte weeli after a restaurantopens is similar to previewperformances at the theater:Often, the show is plagued byproduction problems and blownlines. At this openlng, groups ofidle waiters stood uneasily incircles waiting for something to do.Despite the excess of manpower,coordination between the waitersand the kitchen was poor, and Ibad to wait 40 minutes for mydessert. But within a week, serviceshonld improve.

Downstairs in the bar, JohnnYWalker Red scotch, Beefeatersgirt' Wild Turkey bourbon, CuervoGold tequila and Smirnoff vodkaare poured from the well for $3 adrink Alongside the bar is anexhibition cooking area where achef prepares duck and lobstertacos, desigler pizzas andbrochettes of oysters, scallops andswordfish.

Boulder recording artist Peter

Kater plays piano Thursdaysthrough Saturdays inthe loungeadjoining the bar. However, Katerwill be absent this SaturdaY night;he'll be in concert at the RainbowMusic HalL When Kater's run atThe Rattlesnake Club ends,Branham says he'll import apianist from Los Angeles or NewYork.

Branham, by the way,celebrated the evening in a graYflannel suit with python shoes andUght pintr socks. A 35-yearold part-time capital investment counselor,he started My FHends restaurantin Evergreen with McCartY andsold it four years ago. After signingan option for the Tivoli sPace in1977, he waited eight years for therestaurant to become a realitY. Atfirst he planned to call it Bevans,then worried that it soundedpompous. At his wife Laurie'ssuggestion, he decided to call itThe Rattlesnake Club.

It was a wise decision. I canenvision having some very goodtimes at this decidedly unpompousplace.