Contents

Welcome to Tokyo .........4

Tokyo’s Top 16 ...............6

What’s New .................. 17

Need to Know .............. 18

First Time Tokyo ......... 20

Getting Around ........... 22

Top Itineraries .............24

If You Like... ................. 26

Month by Month ......... 28

With Kids ..................... 32

Like a Local ................. 33

For Free ....................... 35

Eating ......................... 36Drinking & Nightlife ................. 45Entertainment ..........48Shopping ....................50

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand Tokyo 201

Survival Guide 229

Tokyo Maps 263

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore Tokyo 54

Transport ..................230

Directory A–Z ........... 236

Language .................. 245

Index .......................... 255

Tokyo Today .............. 202

History .......................204

Tokyo Pop Culture .....212

Arts & Architecture ...216

Onsen ........................ 226

Neighbourhoods at a Glance ................. 56Marunouchi & Nihombashi ............. 58

Ginza & Tsukiji ............ 69

Roppongi & Around ....79

Ebisu, Meguro & Around ..................... 89

Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa ..... 96

Harajuku & Aoyama ..107

West Tokyo ................ 118

Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo ...125

Kōrakuen & Akihabara ...............136

Ueno & Yanesen ........146

Asakusa & Sumida River ..........158

Odaiba & Tokyo Bay ...............169

Day Trips from Tokyo ...............175

Sleeping ................... 189

F11PH

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Shibuya &Shimo-Kitazawa

p96

Ginza &Tsukiji

p69

Marunouchi &Nihombashi

p58

Asakusa &Sumida

Riverp158

Ebisu, Meguro& Around

p89

Harajuku &Aoyama

p107

WestTokyop118

Shinjuku &Northwest

Tokyop125

Ueno &Yanesen

p146

Kōrakuen& Akihabara

p136

Odaiba &Tokyo Bay

p169

Roppongi& Around

p79

(left) Sensō-ji p160 Tokyo’s oldest temple.

(above) Shibuya Crossing p98 The busiest intersection in Japan.

(right) Tokyo Sky Tree p161 See all the way to Mt Fuji.

Top ItinerariesDay OneHarajuku & Aoyama (p107)

M Start with a visit to Meiji-jingū, Tokyo’s signature Shintō shrine. Then

walk down Omote-sandō to check out the stunning contemporary architecture along this stylish boulevard. Spend some time shopping in Harajuku’s trendsetting boutiques, or check out a museum like the Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial Museum of Art.

Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa (p96)

R Head next to Shibuya (you can walk) where the main attraction is Tokyo’s

most photogenic (and chaotic) intersection, Shibuya Crossing. Shibuya is a youth-ful district, which you can get a feel for by wandering around the main drag, Shibuya Center-gai. At the end is supreme souvenir hunting ground, the variety store Tokyu Hands.

Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo (p125)

N Take the train to Shinjuku and im-merse yourself in the swarming

crowds and neon lights of this famous night-life district. The Tokyo Metropolitan Gov-ernment Building observatories stay open until 11pm for free night views. From around 9pm the shanty bars of Golden Gai come to life; take your pick from the eccentric of-ferings and finish up with a time-honoured Tokyo tradition: a late-night bowl of noodles at Nagi.

Day TwoGinza & Tsukiji (p69)

M Skip breakfast and head to Tsukiji Market, where you can cobble

together a morning meal from the food vendors here. There are also stalls selling kitchen tools, tea and more. From Tsukiji it’s an easy walk to the landscape garden Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien, where you can stop for tea in the teahouse, Nakajima no Ochaya.

Odaiba & Tokyo Bay (p169)

R Take an after-lunch stroll around Ginza, with its art galleries and

luxury boutique windows. Then from nearby Shimbashi Station, take the meandering above-ground Yurikamome line to Tokyo Bay. Spend a couple of hours exploring the fascinating new digital-art museum, team-Lab Borderless, and stick around until dark to see Unicorn Gundam all lit up.

Marunouchi & Nihombashi (p58)

N There’s not much to do by the bay at night, so return to the centre city

for some classic Japanese food and maybe a nightcap at a posh hotel bar, like Peter: the Bar, or see traditional performing arts at dinner theatre Suigian.

Dinner At izakaya Donjaca (p130) or yakitori in Omoide-yokochō (p130).

Lunch Stop for dumplings at local fave Harajuku Gyōza-rō (p111).

Dinner Sample anago (seafaring eel) at Nihonbashi Tamai (p66).

Lunch Go for broke at Ginza sushi counter Kyūbey (p73); book ahead.

24©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Day ThreeAsakusa & Sumida River (p158)

M Get an early start on the crowds at Tokyo’s top temple Sensō-ji; see

the shrine Asakusa-jinja here, too, and the maze of narrow lanes that surrounds the whole complex, where there are lots of shops selling traditional crafts and foodstuffs. Then take the subway to nearby Ueno.

Ueno & Yanesen (p146)

R Spend the afternoon exploring the many attractions of Ueno-kōen,

home to the Tokyo National Museum and centuries-old temples and shrines. Then take a stroll through the old-fash-ioned, open-air market, Ameya-yokochō, and the historical neighbourhood of Yanaka; in the latter you’ll find art galler-ies and studios.

Asakusa & Sumida River (p158)

N The east side of the city is quieter at night than the west side, but you

can come back to Asakusa in the evening to see Sensō-ji lit up (and deserted) and catch a folk-music show at Oiwake, or dig into Japan’s craft-beer scene at legendary Ryōgoku beer bar Popeye, further south down the river.

Lunch Go for classic Japanese cuisine in the park at Innsyoutei (p153).

Dinner Eat at iconic izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery) Shinsuke (p154).

Day FourWest Tokyo (p118)

M Take the Chūō line west to the magical Ghibli Museum (reserva-

tions necessary; we recommend getting in early at 10am). Afterwards, walk through woodsy Inokashira-kōen (stopping at In-okashira Benzaiten) to Kichijōji, which has some good homewares boutiques and an old market, Harmonica-yokochō.

Kōrakuen & Akihabara (p136)

R After lunch, take the Chūō line back east to Akihabara, where

you can visit manga and anime superstore Mandarake and ride go-karts through the streets with MariCAR (reserve ahead; international driving licence necessary). If you haven’t yet worked in an onsen dip, visit nearby Spa LaQua.

Roppongi & Around (p79)

N For your last night, head to Rop-pongi to check out Roppongi

Hills, the first of Tokyo’s new breed of live-work-and-play megamalls. On the top floor of a tower here is the excellent Mori Art Museum, which stays open until 10pm. Then head out into the wilds of Roppongi’s infamous nightlife. Make sure to fit in a round of karaoke.

Lunch Stop off in Kōenji for amazing tempura at Tensuke (p122).

Dinner Get the nouveau ramen experi-ence at Mensho Tokyo (p142).

25PLAN

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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Behind the Scenes

WRITER THANKSRebecca MilnerThank you to my family and friends, who are there for me through all the ups and downs and late nights; to my indefatigable co-author Simon, for his inspiration and guidance; to LP for standing by me; and to all the chefs, curators, professors, baristas and total strangers who knowingly or un-knowingly provided me with new insight into this city, which I must also thank, for always keeping me on my toes.

Simon RichmondMany thanks to co-writer Rebecca and to the following: Will Andrews, Toshiko Ishii, Kenichi, Giles Murray, Chris Kirkland, Shoji Kobayashi, Jun Onuma, Sabrina Suljevic, Ken Gail Kato, Toyokuni Honda, Tim Hornyak and Tomoko Yoshizawa.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSIllustration pp150–1 by Michael Weldon.Cover photograph: Crowds pass below colourful signs in Akihabara, Sean Pavone, Alamy Stock Photo ©Tokyo Metro map used with permission of Tokyo Metro and TBTMG. All rights reserved.Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlay-son BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifica-tion’; _Hydrology and Earth System Sciences_, 11, 1633–44.

253©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS BOOKThis 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Tokyo guidebook was researched and writ-ten by Rebecca Milner and Simon Richmond. The 10th and 11th editions were also written by Rebecca and Simon. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editors Laura Crawford, James SmartSenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanRegional Senior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtProduct Editor Barbara DelissenBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Bridget Blair, Victoria Harrison, Anne

Mulvaney, Lauren O’Connell, Kristin OdijkAssisting Cartographer Hunor CsutorosAssisting Book Designer Clara MonittoCover Researcher Brendan Dempsey-SpencerThanks to Naoko Akamatsu, Graham Holey, Elizabeth Jones, David Lurie, Ed Schlenk, Victoria Smith, Lim Chee Wah, Amanda Williamson

254

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Index21_21 Design Sight 82, 843331 Arts Chiyoda 138

Aabdication 202-3accessible travel 236accommodation 17, 19, 189-

200, see also Sleeping subindex

airports 197Akihabara 198-9 Aoyama 196 apartments 194Asakusa 199-200Ebisu 195Ginza 193-4Harajuku 196Kōrakuen 198-9language 246Marunouchi 193Meguro 195Nihombashi 193 northwest Tokyo 197-8 Roppongi 194Shibuya 195-6Shimo-Kitazawa 195-6 Shinjuku 197-8Sumida River 199-200 Ueno 199Tsukiji 193-4 west Tokyo 196-7Yanesen 199

activities, see also bathhouses, courses, walks, Sports & Activi-ties subindex, individual neighbourhoods

boat tours 68, 174cycling 68, 157, 232go-karting 145hiking 176-7, 185, 188

kayaking 168addresses 234Advertising Museum

Tokyo 72airport accommodation 197airports 230-2Akagi-jinja 139, 140Akasaka 82-3, 83-6, 79,

270-1accommodation 194drinking & nightlife 80, 88entertainment 87-8food 83, 86highlights 79shopping 88sights 82-3sports & activities 88transport 80

Akihabara 16, 138-9, 139-42, 143, 136, 283, 16, 212, 215

accommodation 199drinking & nightlife 137,

142-3entertainment 143food 43, 137, 139, 142highlights 16, 136shopping 137, 143-4sights 138-9sports & activities 145transport 137

Akihito 202ambulance 238amusement parks 32, 135,

145, 174Amuse Museum 161anime 124, 135, 143, 144,

172, 213antiques 53Aoyama 110-11, 112, 276-7

accommodation 196drinking & nightlife

108, 116entertainment 116food 43, 108, 112highlights 12, 107

shopping 9, 108, 116-17sights 109, 110-11sports & activities 117transport 108walks 113, 113

aquariums 172architecture 9, 27, 35, 113,

122, 222-5, 218area code 242art museums 26-7arts 216-22, see also

individual artsAsahi Super Dry Hall 161Asakura Museum of

Sculpture, Taitō 153Asakusa 161Asakusa 57, 158-68, 158,

286, 287accommodation 199-200drinking & nightlife

159, 164entertainment 165food 43, 159, 162-4highlights 10, 12, 158,

160, 162shopping 159, 165, 167-8sights 160, 161-2sports & activities 168transport 159walks 166-7, 166

Asakusa-jinja 161ATMs 240

Bbaggage shipment 231baggage storage 231, 234Bakurochō 67bars 45bathhouses 226-8

Asakusa & Sumida River 168

Ginza & Tsukiji 78Hakone 184-5Harajuku & Aoyama 117Kōrakuen & Akihabara 145Odaiba & Tokyo Bay 174

Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo 135

Ueno & Yanesen 157bathrooms 242beer 46, 47Beer Museum Yebisu 91bicycle travel, see cyclingboat travel 232books 202, 214bus tours 234-5bus travel

to Tokyo 230, 231-2, 233within Tokyo 232-3

business hours 37, 46, 51, 241

butō 222

Ccalendar 242car travel 233cell phones 241-2chemists 240cherry-blossom viewing 28,

34, 13Imperial Palace 61Meguro-gawa 93, 93Shinjuku-gyoen 128Ueno-kōen 152Yanaka-reien 153Yoyogi-kōen 12, 110, 13,

114-5children, travel with 32, 170

amusement parks 32, 135, 145, 174

aquariums 172Ferris wheels 174libraries 152shops 117zoos 152

cinemas 49classical arts 216climate 19clinics 239clubs 45, 47, see also

Drinking & Nightlife subindex

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P259

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P260

3 ENTERTAINMENT P260

7 SHOPPING P261

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P261

4 SLEEPING P261

255©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

cocktails 47coffee 46, 47, 111Complex 665 82consulates 237contemporary art 219cooking courses 78, 88,

157, 168costs 18

accommodation 191discount cards 236drinking 46food 37free attractions 35, 235tax refunds 241

courses 41cooking 78, 88, 157, 168ikebana 88, 117traditional crafts 145,

168crafts 51, 53Crafts Gallery 62credit cards 51, 240currency 240currency exchange 240customs regulations 236cycling 68, 157, 232

Dd47 Museum 99Daibutsu (Kamakura)

186-7Daikanyama 92-3, 94, 95,

89, 92, 274dance 48dangers 241dentist 239design 27, 53Design Festa 110dietary restrictions 42-3Dior building 113drink spiking 241drinking 45-7, 53, 246-7,

see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighbourhoods

drinksbeer 46, 47cocktails 47coffee 46, 47, 111sake 17, 45, 111tea 17, 46, 47, 217whisky 46

Eearthquake 210Ebisu 57, 89-95, 89, 274-5

accommodation 195drinking & nightlife 90,

94-5entertainment 95food 43, 90, 91, 93-4highlights 89shopping 90, 95sights 91transport 90walks 92-3, 92

economy 211Edo era 207, 222Edo-Tokyo Museum 161,

224Edo-Tokyo Open Air

Architecture Museum 122

electricity 236-7embassies 237emergencies 237

language 248Emperor Akihito 202Emperor Naruhito 203Engaku-ji (Kamakura) 187-8English 19entertainment 48-9, see

also Entertainment subindex, individual neighbourhoods

etiquette 21, 23, 37, 46events, see festivals &

events

Ffarmers markets 41, 111fashion 50, 53, 213-14

sizes 51Ferris wheels 174festivals & events 28-31,

35, 111, 215films 202, 217, 219fire 238Five-Storey Pagoda 160food 36-44, 53, 38, see

also Eating subindex, individual neighbourhoods

cooking courses 78, 88, 157, 168

costs 37food courts 130language 246-8, 251-2markets 71, 112, 121,

155-7, 172okonomiyaki 37, 41, 38opening hours 37

ramen 42, 44, 42sushi 41, 44, 37, 42tours 41

free attractions 35, 235Fuji Five Lakes 177Fukagawa 166-7Fukagawa Edo Museum 166Fukagawa Fudō-dō 167Futarasan-jinja (Nikkō) 180

GGaienmae 110-11, 112, 116,

276-7galleries 35Gallery of Hōryū-ji

Treasures 149gardens 27, 35, 225, see also

cherry-blossom viewinggay travellers 47, 131, 238Ghibli Museum 16, 120,

16, 120Ginza Maison Hermès Le

Forum 72Ginza 56, 69-78, 69,

268-9, 50accommodation 193-4drinking & nightlife

70, 76-7entertainment 77food 43, 70, 72-6highlights 7, 12, 69, 71, 73shopping 70, 77-8sights 71, 72, 73sports & activities 78transport 70

Godzilla 128, 209Godzilla Head 128go-karting 145Golden Gai 127, 127, 132groping 241

HHachikō Statue 99, 101Hakone 181-5, 182Hakone Open-Air Museum

(Hakone) 183Hakone-jinja (Hakone) 184Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien

72, 75-6hanami, see cherry-

blossom viewing Hanazono-jinja 128Haneda Airport 231-2Harajuku 57, 107-17, 107,

276-7, 8accommodation 196drinking & nightlife 108,

112-16entertainment 116

food 43, 108, 111-12highlights 9, 12, 107, 109shopping 9, 108, 116-17sights 109, 110-11sports & activities 117transport 108walks 113, 113

Harmonica-yokochō 121Hase-dera (Kamakura) 187Hatsu-mōde 28Heiseikan 149helplines 237highlights 6-16hiking 176-7, 185, 188history 27, 204-11holidays 241Hōrai-jima 149hospitals 239Hotel New Ōtani Japanese

Garden 82Hyokeikan 149

Iikebana 88, 117Ikebukuro 128-9, 134, 135,

215, 280-1Ikebukuro Life Safety

Learning Center 129immigration 203Imperial Palace 60-1,

60, 64Inokashira Benzaiten 121-2Inokashira-kōen 121Institute for Nature

Study 91insurance 238Intermediatheque 62International Library of

Children’s Literature 152-3

internet access 238internet resources, see

websitesitineraries 24-5, 39Itō Toyō 225izakaya 40, 44, 45, 40

JJapan Folk Crafts

Museum 99Japan Railways (JR) 234Japanese Sword Museum

161J-pop 214

Kkabuki 12, 220-1Kabukiza Theatre 12, 73,

13, 74

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

256

IND

EX C-K

Kagurazaka 139, 198, 136, 282, 141-2

Kamakura 185-8, 186Kaminari-mon 160Kanda 138-9, 142, 283,

141Kanda Myōjin 138, 140Kanman-ga-Fuchi Abyss

(Nikkō) 180Kappabashi-dōri 165karaoke

information 34, 45, 47karaoke bars 77, 87, 103

kayaking 168Kenchō-ji (Kamakura) 187Kengo Kuma 225Kichijōji 121, 122-3, 124,

279kimonos 51-2, 53kissaten 33, 45Kishikawa Kōrakuen 138,

141Kitanomaru-kōen 59, 62,

67, 58kitchenware 51, 53, 165Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō 152Kiyosumi-shirakawa 166-7,

200, 158, 166, 167Kiyosumi-teien 166, 167Kōenji 121, 122, 123, 124,

196, 197, 118, 278Kōenji Awa Odori 30, 30Koishikawa Kōrakuen 138,

30, 141Kōkyo-gaien Plaza 61konbini 34Kōrakuen & Akihabara

57, 136-45, 136, 282, 283, 215

accommodation 198-9drinking & nightlife 137,

142-3entertainment 143food 43, 137, 139, 142highlights 16, 136shopping 137, 143-4sights 138-9sports & activities 145transport 137

Kudanshita 138, 142, 136, 282

Kuroda Memorial Hall 152Kuro-mon 149Kyū Iwasaki-teien 153

Llacquerware 216language 21, 51, 245-52

English 19

legal matters 238lesbian travellers 47, 131,

238LGBT+ travellers 47, 131,

238literature 219

books 202, 241local life 33-4Louis Vuitton building 113luggage shipment 231luggage storage 231, 234

Mmagazines 239Mag’s Park 98malls 53Maman spider sculpture 81manga 124, 135, 143, 144,

212-13markets 27, 35

clothes 121, 155-7farmers markets 41, 111fish 172flea markets 52, 159food 71, 112, 121, 155,

157, 172shōtengai 34

Marunouchi 56, 58-68, 58, 266-7

accommodation 193drinking & nightlife

59, 66-7entertainment 67food 43, 59, 63, 66highlights 58, 60-1shopping 59, 67-8sights 60-3sports & activities 68tours 68transport 59

Matsuo Bashō 220measures 236media 239medical services 239-40Meguro 57, 89-95, 89,

274-5accommodation 195drinking & nightlife 90,

94-5entertainment 95food 94highlights 89shopping 90, 95sights 91transport 90walks 92-3, 92

Meguro-gawa 93, 93Meiji Shrine 9, 109, 9,

109, 115

Meiji-jingū 9, 109, 9, 109, 114-5

Mejiro 127, 128-9, 125metalwork 216Mitaka 121, 123, 196, 278Mitsui Memorial Museum

62-3mobile phones 241-2Mohri Garden 81money 18, 240

accommodation 191discount cards 236drinking 46food 37free attractions 35, 235language 248tax refunds 241

monorail 232Mori Art Museum 81motorcycle travel 233Mt Fuji 14, 176-7, 14Murakami Takashi 219Musée Tomo 82museum guide 220Museum of Contemporary

Art, Tokyo (MOT) 166music 48, 49, 53Myōnichikan 129Myth of Tomorrow 99

NNakagin Capsule Tower

72, 74Naka-Meguro 90, 92-3, 94,

95, 195, 89, 92, 274Nakamise-dōri 160Nakano 121, 122, 123, 124,

215, 118, 278Nakano Broadway 121Narita Airport 230-1Naruhito 203National Art Center Tokyo

82, 84-5National Museum of

Emerging Science & Innovation (Miraikan) 172

National Museum of Modern Art (MOMAT) 62

National Museum of Nature & Science 152

news 239Nezu Museum 110Nezu-jinja 153nightlife 45-7, see

also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighbourhoods

Nihombashi 62, 64Nihombashi 62-3, 58,

266-7, 64accommodation 193drinking & nightlife

59, 66-7entertainment 67food 63, 66shopping 59, 68sights 62-3sports & activities 68tours 68transport 59

Nikkō 178-81, 179Nikkō Tamozawa Imperial

Villa Memorial Park (Nikkō) 180

Nishi-Shinjuku 128, 125accommodation 198drinking & nightlife 130-1entertainment 128, 134food 130sights 128

NI-Tele Really Big Clock 72nō 221-2nomiyagai 33northwest Tokyo 57, 125-35,

125, 280-1accommodation 197-8drinking & nightlife 126,

130-1, 134entertainment 134food 43, 126, 129-30highlights 7, 125, 127shopping 126, 134-5sights 127, 128-9sports & activities 135transport 126

OOdaiba Kaihin-kōen 172-3Odaiba 57, 169-74, 215,

169, 265drinking & nightlife 173-4food 43, 170, 173highlights 10, 169, 171sights 171, 172-3sports & activities 174transport 170

Ogikubo 121, 122, 118Okada Museum of Art

(Hakone) 183-4Olympic Games 202Omoide-Yokochō 130,

33, 38Omote-sandō 110, 113Omotesandō Hills 113onsen 226-8, 226, see also

bathhouses

257IN

DEX K

-O

opening hours 37, 46, 51, 241

Origami Kaikan 138-9Oshiage 161-2, 167-8, 286Ōwakudani (Hakone) 184

Ppainting 216, 218parks 27, 35, 225passports 238performing arts 48, 49,

220-2pharmacies 240photo ops 27planning

budgeting 18, 35, 37, 235, 236

children, travel with 32festivals & events 28-31first-time visitors 20-1itineraries 24-5local life 33-4repeat visitors 17Tokyo basics 18-19Tokyo’s neighbourhoods

56-7travel seasons 19websites 18

police 238pop culture 16, 32, 212-15population 203postal services 241Prada Aoyama building 113private commuter trains

234prostitution 241public art 218public holidays 241public phones 242

Rradio 239ramen 42, 44, 42Reversible Destiny Lofts 121rickshaws 168ride sharing 233Rikugi-en 148, 148Rinnō-ji (Nikkō) 180Roppongi & Around 79-88,

270-1, 79, 270accommodation 194drinking & nightlife

80, 86-7

entertainment 87-8food 43, 80, 83, 86highlights 79, 81shopping 80, 88sights 81, 82-3sports & activities 88transport 80

Roppongi Hills 81, 81royal family 202-3, 204Ryōgoku 12, 161, 162, 163-

4, 168, 158, 287Ryōgoku Kokugikan 162

Ssafety 241sake 17, 45, 111Sakurazaka-kōen 82samurai 205Sanja Matsuri 29Sasuke-inari-jinja

(Kamakura) 188SCAI the Bathhouse 153Sengaku-ji 94Sensō Temple 10, 160, 3,

11, 160Sensō-ji 10, 160, 3, 11, 160sentō 227-8, see also

bathhousesShiba-kōen 83, 86Shibuya Center-gai 98Shibuya Crossing 15, 98, 3,

15, 98, 100Shibuya 17, 96-106, 96,

272-3, 100accommodation 195-6drinking & nightlife 97,

103-5entertainment 105-6food 43, 97, 99, 102-3highlights 15, 96, 98shopping 97, 106sights 98, 99transport 97walks 104-5, 104

Shibuya Stream 99Shimo-Kitazawa 17, 96-106,

96, 272-3accommodation 192,

195-6drinking & nightlife 97,

103-5entertainment 105-6food 43, 97, 99, 102-3highlights 15, 96shopping 97, 106sights 98, 99transport 97

Shinjuku I-Land 128

Shinjuku 7, 57, 125-35, 125, 280-1, 6

accommodation 197-8drinking & nightlife 126,

130-1, 134entertainment 134food 43, 126, 129-30highlights 7, 125, 127shopping 126, 134-5sights 127, 128-9sports & activities 135transport 126

Shinjuku-gyoen 128, 132-3Shinobazu-ike 152Shiseido Gallery 72Shitamachi Museum 153shōchū 46shokudō 40-1shopping 50-3, 52, 50,

see also Shopping subindex, individual neighbourhoods

language 248, 248-51shōtengai 34shrines 26, 35, 223smoking 236sports 48, 49, see also

Sports & Activities subindex, individual neighbourhoods

St Mary’s Cathedral Tokyo 128-9

State Guest House, Akasaka Palace 83

street art 123street food 41street performers 219subway 234Sudo-kōen 153Sumida Hokusai Museum 161Sumida River 57, 158-68,

158, 286, 287accommodation 199-200drinking & nightlife

159, 164entertainment 165food 43, 159, 162-4highlights 10, 12, 158,

160, 162shopping 159, 165-8sights 160, 161-2sports & activities 168transport 159walks 166-7, 166

Sumida-gawa Fireworks 29sumo 12, 48, 162, 12SunnyHills 113Suntory Museum of Art 82sushi 41, 44, 37, 42

TTadao Ando 224Taiyūin-byō (Nikkō) 180Takeshita-dōri 110, 8,

115, 215Takimi-chaya 148Taro Okamoto Memorial

Museum 111tattoos 227taxes 241taxis 22, 231, 232, 233tea 17, 46tea ceremonies 217teahouses 47teamLab Borderless 10,

171, 5, 10, 171telephone services 241-2

helplines 237temples 26, 35, 223TeNQ 138theatre 48time 242, 249tipping 21Tod’s 113Togetsukyō 149toilets 242TOKAS Hongo 138Tokyo Bay 57, 169-74, 215,

169, 265drinking & nightlife 173-4food 43, 170, 173highlights 10, 169, 171sights 171, 172-3sports & activities 174transport 170

Tokyo City View 81Tokyo International Forum

62, 65Tokyo Metropolitan

Government Building 128, 8, 133

Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum 91

Tokyo National Museum 15, 149, 150-1, 150-1, 14, 149, 150, 151

Tokyo Sea Life Park 172Tokyo Sky Tree 161-2, 225,

3, 55Tokyo Station 62Tokyu Plaza 113, 114Tomigaya 17, 104-5Tomioka Hachiman-gū 167TOP Museum 91Toranomon Hills 82-3Tōshō-gū (Nikkō) 178-80tourist information 143,

177, 243

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

258

IND

EX O-T

tours 234-5boat 68, 174bus 234-5cycling 68, 157food 41Mt Fuji 177

Tōyōkan 149Toyosu Market 17, 172traditional arts 216train travel

to/from Tokyo 230-1, 232, 233

within Tokyo 233-4transport 230-5, see also

individual neighbourhoods

language 249travel tickets 23, 232, 235travel to/from Tokyo 19,

230-2travel within Tokyo 22-3,

232-5passes 23, 232, 235rickshaws 168

trekking 176-7, 185, 188Tsukiji 69-78, 69, 268-9

accommodation 193-4drinking & nightlife

70, 76-7food 43, 70, 72-6highlights 7, 12, 69,

71, 73sights 71, 72, 73sports & activities 78transport 70

Tsukiji Market 7, 71, 7, 42, 43, 71, 75

Tsukiji Uogashi 71Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū

(Kamakura) 187Tsutsuji-chaya 148

UUeno Tōshō-gū 152Ueno 57, 146-57, 146,

284, 40accommodation 199drinking & nightlife

147, 155entertainment 155food 43, 147, 153-5highlights 11, 15, 146,

148-9shopping 147, 155, 157sights 148-153transport 147walks 156, 156

Ueno Zoo 152ukiyo-e 217-18

Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial Museum of Art 110

Unicorn Gundam 172

Vvacations 241vegan travellers 42, 44, 73,

86, 102, 181vegetarian travellers 42,

44, 73, 86, 102, 181views 27, 35, 170, 26

bars 47Mag’s Park 98 Tokyo City View 81Tokyo Metropolitan

Government Building 128

Tokyo Sky Tree 161-2, 225, 55

visas 243-4VR attractions 17, 135, 215

Wwalking tours 235walks 92-3, 104-5, 113,

156, 166-7, 92, 104, 112, 156, 166, see also hiking

weather 19websites

accommodation 192arts 221drinking 46entertainment 49food 37Mt Fuji 177planning 18shopping 51

weights 236west Tokyo 57, 118-24, 118,

278, 279accommodation 196-7drinking & nightlife

119, 123entertainment 124food 43, 119, 121-3highlights 16, 118, 120shopping 119, 124sights 120, 121transport 119

whisky 46World War II 208-10

YYanaka 156Yanaka Ginza 153Yanaka-reien 153Yanesen 11, 153, 154-5, 155,

157, 199, 284, 11

Yasukuni-jinja 138Yayoi Kusama Museum 128Yebisu Garden Place 91Yoyogi National Stadium

110Yoyogi-kōen 12, 110, 13,

114-5

ZZeniarai-benten

(Kamakura) 188Zōjō-ji 83, 85zoos 152

5 EATING

AAfuri 93Agaru Sagaru Nishi-iru

Higashi-iru 111Ain Soph 73Amanoya 142Aoyama Farmers

Market 111Aoyama Kawakami-an 112Apollo 73Asakusa Imahan 163

BBerg 129Bills 173Bird Land 76Bonzō (Kamakura) 188Bricolage Bread & Co 86Bridge Coffee &

Icecream 67

CCamelback 104Coco-Hakone (Hakone) 184Commune 2nd 112

Dd47 Shokudō 102Daikokuya 163Daily Chiko 122Daiwa Sushi 173Delifucious 94Dhaba India 63Donjaca 130

EEatrip 112Ebisu-yokochō 91, 93Edo Noren 163

FFalafel Brothers 86Food Show 102

GGinza Sato Yosuke 72-3Gochisō Tonjiru 129Gomaya Kuki 111Gyōshintei (Nikkō) 181Gyūkatsu Motomura 99

HHagi Cafe 154-5Hantei 155Harajuku Gyōza-rō 111Harukiya 122Hongū Cafe (Nikkō)

180-1Honmura-An 83Hoppy-dōri 162-3

IIki Espresso 166Innsyoutei 153-4Inua 142Ippo 94Isegen 142Itoh Dining by Nobu

(Hakone) 184

JJōmon 86

KKado 139Kagawa Ippuku 139Kamachiku 154Kanae 130Kanda Yabu Soba 139, 43Kappō Yoshiba 163Katsu Midori 102Kikanbō 139, 142Kikunoi 86Kizushi 66Kōenji Gādo-shita 122Kozue 130Kyūbey 73, 76

LLumine 130

MMagokoro (Kamakura) 188Maisen 112Maru Bengara 102

259IN

DEX E

AT

ING

Matsubara-an (Kamakura) 188

Matsukiya 102Meal MUJI Yūrakuchō 63Meguri (Nikkō) 181Mensho Tokyo 142Misojyu 162Mominoki House 111-12Mosuke Dango 173Mylord 130

NNagi 129-30Nagi Shokudō 102Nagomi-chaya (Nikkō) 181Narukiyo 103Nemuro Hanamaru 63Nihonbashi Dashi Bar

Hanare 63Nihonbashi Tamai 66Nikkō Coffee (Nikkō) 181

OOhitotsuzen Tanbo 129Omoide-yokochō 130Onigiri Yadoroku 162Otafuku 163Ouca 93

PPignon 105Pokémon Cafe 63, 66

RRangmang Shokudō 93

SSagatani 102Sakura-tei 111Sasa-no-Yuki 154Shimanto-gawa 73Shinsuke 154Shirube 102Sometarō 163Sông Bé Cafe (Kamakura)

188Sougo 83-6Steak House Satou 123Sukumo (Hakone) 184Sushi Dai 173Suzukien 163

TTaimeiken 63Takashimaya Restaurant

Park 130Tamahide 66Tayori 154Tempura Kondō 76Tensuke 122Tetchan 122-3Tofuya-Ukai 86Tokyo Ramen Street 63Tomoegata 164Tonki 94, 36Tsukiji Uogashi 71

UUeno-Sakuragi Nanohana

154

YYakiniku Champion 93-4Yamachō 71Yanagi-kōji 122Yangxiang Ajibo 154Yanmo 112

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

@Home Cafe 143

AAgeha 174Aiiro Cafe 131Albatross G 127Amazake-chaya (Hakone)

184Another 8 95Aoyama Flower Market

Teahouse 112, 116Asahi Sky Room 164

BBar Goldfinger 131Bar Trench 95Beat Cafe 103Beer-Ma Kanda 142BenFiddich 130-1Blue Sky Coffee 123Bongen Coffee 77Brewdog 87

CCafe de l’Ambre 77Café Otonova 164

Cha Ginza 76Chashitsu Kaboku 66Circus Tokyo 103Cocktail Shobō 123-4Cocktail Works 143Contact 105Craft Beer Server Land

142'Cuzn Homeground 164

DDaikaijū Salon 123Dandelion Chocolate 164

EEagle 131Ele Tokyo 87

FFuglen 164Fuglen Tokyo 105, 100

GGem by Moto 94-5Gen Gen An 105Gen Yamamoto 86Ghetto 103Ginza Lion 76Ginza Music Bar 76Gora Brewery & Grill

(Hakone) 184

HHitachino Brewing Lab

143

IImasa 142

JJicoo the Floating Bar 173-4Jugetsudo 76-7

KKamiya Bar 164Karaoke Rainbow 103Karat 77Kayaba Coffee 155Koffee Mameya 116

LLittle Nap Coffee Stand

104, 100, 105Lonely 127

MMagnetico (Kamakura) 188(marunouchi) House 66-7Mother 103, 105

NNakajima no Ochaya 72Nantoka Bar 123Nerd Nite Tokyo 87New York Bar 131

OOath 103Ōizumi Kōjō 87Old Imperial Bar 77Onibus Coffee 95

PPasela Resorts 87Peter: the Bar 66Popeye 164

RRen 134Rhythm Cafe 103Roof Top Bar & Terrace G

131, 134

SSabōru 142-3Sakurai Japanese Tea

Experience 112Samurai 131Sub Store 123

TToranomon Koffee 87Torindō 155Toyama Bar 66Turret Coffee 76Two Dogs Taproom 86-7Two Rooms 116

YYanaka Beer Hall 155

ZZoetrope 131

3 ENTERTAINMENTArashio Stable 67Club Goodman 143Club Quattro 106

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

260

IND

EX DR

INK

ING

& N

IGH

TLIFE

Cotton Club 67Jingū Baseball Stadium 116Kabukiza 77Kabukiza Theatre 73Kanze Nōgakudō 77National Nō Theatre 116National Theatre 87Nippon Budōkan 67Oiwake 165Plan B 124Robot Restaurant 134, 132Ryōgoku Kokugikan 162,

165Setagaya Public Theatre

106Shimo-Kitazawa Three 105Shinjuku Pit Inn 134Suigian 67Suntory Hall 88Toho Cinemas Roppongi

Hills 87Tokyo Bunka Kaikan 155Tokyo Dome 143Tokyo Opera City Concert

Hall 134Tokyo Takarazuka

Theatre 77Tokyo University of the

Arts Performing Arts Center 155

UFO Club 124Unit 95WWW 105-6

7 SHOPPING2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan

143-4

AAkihabara Radio Kaikan

144Akomeya 78Ameya-yokochō 155, 157Animate Ikebukuro 135Art Sanctuary Allan West

157Arts & Science 116-17

BBabaghuri 166Beams Japan 134Bengara 165Books Kinokuniya Tokyo

135

CChabara 144Comme des Garçons 117

Coredo Muromachi 68Cow Books 92

Dd47 design travel store 106Daikanyama T-Site 92Disk Union Shinjuku 135Dover Street Market

Ginza 78

FFujiya 167

GGallery aM 67Gallery Kawano 117Ganso Shokuhin

Sample-ya 165Geidai Art Plaza 157Ginza Six 78, 50Good Design Store Tokyo

by Nohara 68

HHayatochiri 124House @Mikiri Hassin 116

IInk Stand 165, 167Isetan 134-5Isetatsu 157Itōya 77-8

JJapan Traditional Crafts

Aoyama Square 88

KKama-asa 165Kapital 95Kappabashi-dōri 165KiddyLand 117KITTE 67, 65Komiyama Shoten 144Kurodaya 167

LLaforet 117

MmAAch ecute 144-5Maito 167Mandarake Complex

124, 144Marugoto Nippon 165Mega Donki 106

Minä Perhonen 92Mitsukoshi 68, 78Morioka Shoten & Co 78Muji 68Musubi 117

NNEWoMan 135Nippon Hyakkuten 144

OŌedo Antique Market 68Ohya Shobō 144Okuna Karuta-ten 144Okuno Building 78Okura 92Outbound 124

PPass the Baton 117PukuPuku 124Raw Tokyo 52

R...research General Store

93

SShibuya Hikarie 106Shibuya Publishing &

Booksellers 104Soi 165Sokkyō 124Solamachi 167-8Sou-Sou 117Souvenir from Tokyo 88

TTaco Ché 124Takumi 77Tokyo Hotarudo 167Tokyo Midtown 88Tokyu Hands 106Tolman Collection 88Toraya 88Tower Records 106Tsukiji Hitachiya 71Tsukikageya 104

UUniqlo 78

VVase 93

YY. & Sons 144Yanaka Matsunoya 157Yodobashi-Akiba 144Yoshitoku Dolls 165

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

Buddha Bellies 157Dai-kanransha 174Edoyū 168Funasei 174Hakone Yuryō (Hakone)

185Jakotsu-yu 168Kitchen Kujo Tokyo 157Komparu-yu 78MariCAR 145Mokuhankan 168Nihombashi Cruise 68Ōedo Onsen Monogatari

174, 226Ohara School of Ikebana 117Rokuryu Kōsen 157Shimizu-yu 117Sky Circus 135Sōgetsu Kaikan 88Sōun-zan (Hakone) 185Spa LaQua 145Tenzan Tōji-kyō (Hakone)

184Thermae-yu 135Time to Geisha 68Tokyo Cook 88Tokyo Disney Resort 174Tokyo Dome City

Attractions 145Tokyo Great Cycling

Tour 68Tokyo Joypolis 174Tokyo Kitchen 168Tokyobike Rentals Yanaka

157Toyokuni Atelier Gallery 145Tsukiji Soba Academy 78Wanariya 168Yunessun (Hakone) 185ZAC 168

4 SLEEPING9 Hours Shinjuku-North

197

AAman Tokyo 193Andon Ryokan 199-200

261IN

DEX S

HO

PP

ING

Annex Katsutarō Ryokan 199

Annex Turtle Hotori-An (Nikkō) 181, 183

Apartment Hotel Mimaru Akasaka 194

BBay Hotel Ginza 193BnA Hotel 197BnA STUDIO Akihabara 199Book and Bed Shinjuku 197Bunka Hostel Tokyo 200

CCandeo Hotels Tokyo

Roppongi 194Cerulean Tower Tōkyū

Hotel 196Citan 193Claska 195

DDormy Inn Express Meguro

Aobadai 195Dormy Inn Premium

Shibuya Jingūmae 196

EExcel Hotel Tokyu 196

FFukuzumirō (Hakone)

185-6

GGuesthouse Tenmaku

(Hakone) 185

HHanare 199Hilltop Hotel 199Hoshinoya Tokyo 193Hotel Century Southern

Tower 198Hotel Gracery Shinjuku 198Hotel Koé Tokyo 195Hotel Mets Shibuya 196Hotel Niwa Tokyo 198Hotel Ōkura 194-5Hotel S 194Hotel Sunroute Plaza

Shinjuku 197-8

IImperial Hotel 194

KKaisu 194Khaosan World 200Kikka 193Kimi Ryokan 197K’s House Mt Fuji 177

LLyuro The Share Hotels

200

MManuke 196Millennials 195Millennium Mitsui Garden

Hotel Tokyo 194Mustard Hotel 195

NNishitetsu Inn Shinjuku 198Nohga Hotel 199Nui 200

PPark Hotel Tokyo 193Park Hyatt Tokyo 198Peninsula Tokyo 193

Prime Pod Ginza Tokyo 193

RReversible Destiny Lofts

196-7Rindō-no-Ie (Nikkō) 181

SSakura Hotel Ikebukuro 197Sawanoya Ryokan 199Sekitei 198Shibuya Stream Excel

Hotel Tokyu 196Sukeroku No Yado

Sadachiyo 200

TToco 199Tokyo Ryokan 200Turntable 195

UUnplan Kagurazaka 198

WWired Hotel Asakusa 200

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

262

IND

EX SP

OR

TS

& A

CT

IVIT

IES

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MTR/MRT station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Tokyo Maps

263©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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æ Top Sights p171 Daiwa Sushi..........................................(see 4) 1 teamLab Borderless...................................C3 Mosuke Dango.....................................(see 4) Sushi Dai...............................................(see 4) æ Sights p172

2 National Museum of Emerging Science û Drinking & Nightlife p173 & Innovation (Miraikan)..........................B5 7 Jicoo the Floating Bar................................ A3 3 Odaiba Kaihin-kōen ....................................B3

4 Toyosu Market ............................................ C1 Ø Sports & Activities p174 5 Unicorn Gundam.........................................B4 8 Dai-kanransha.............................................C3 9 Ōedo Onsen Monogatari ........................... B5 ú Eating p173 10 Tokyo Joypolis............................................ B3 6 Bills ...............................................................B3

265

Our Writers

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415312th edition – August 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 848 8© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Rebecca MilnerEbisu, Meguro & Around, Shibuya & ShimoKitazawa, Harajuku & Aoyama, West Tokyo, Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo, Odaiba & Tokyo Bay California born, living in Tokyo since 2002. Co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tokyo and Japan. Freelance writer covering travel, food and culture. Pub-lished in the Guardian, the Independent, the Sunday Times Travel Magazine,

the Japan Times and more.

Simon RichmondMarunouchi & Nihombashi, Ginza & Tsukiji, Roppongi & Around, Kōrakuen & Akihabara, Ueno & Yanesen Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s re-

searched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching – follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches.

Contributing writer: Thomas O'Malley (Day Trips)

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

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