THE WEEK GUERNSEY PRESSTHE WEEK10

trav

elThe island of Penang,

Malaysia, has long been an important link between the

territories of Asia and the markets of Europe. Boasting

stunning scenery, statuesque temples and bustling markets,

it’s not known as the Pearl of the Orient for nothing, as

Jessamy Baldwin discovered

Tuck in...THE street food scene is legendary in Penang and the Batu Ferringhi night food market was one of the best I’ve been to in Asia. With a dazzling array of cuisines from the island’s Chinese, Malay and Indian communities, there’s sure to be something to get your taste buds going. From rich, sticky chicken satay and Hokkien prawn noodles to fresh fruit smoothies and spicy curries, it’s foodie heaven.

Five local dishes to try...1. Mee gorengThin yellow noodles fried up together with meat or

prawns or chicken, mixed with chilli, egg, Chinese cabbage and pickles. Has its origins in

Chinese chow mein-style dishes.

2. Penang Assam laksa (left)This local variation of Malaysia’s spicy noodle soup has a tamarind-scented fish-based broth and is served with flaked fish, finely sliced onions, cucumber, red chilies, lettuce, mint and ginger. Prawn paste can

be added for extra flavor. May be an aquired taste.

3. Char Kway Teow

Stir-fried flat rice noodles with shrimp, cockles, eggs, bean sprouts, chives and Chinese

dried sausage in a mix of soy sauce. Similar to phat Thai.

4. PopiahFresh, rather than deep-fried, spring rolls. Rolled crepes filled with soyabean curd and/or seafood, eggs, vegetables and Chinese lettuce and served with dipping sauces.

5. Roti canaiThe Malaysian version of the Indian paratha roti or flatbread. It is served with curry, the most common being dahl and kari ayam (chicken curry).There’s also a teeth-achingly sweet version sold as a street snack where the roti are drizzled with condensed milk and sprinkled with sugar – delicious.

Kek Lok Si Temple lit up

with fireworks. (KeongDaGreat/

Shutterstock)

Boats at the Chew Jetty.

Sunset at the beach. (Picture by Ah Wei)

Khoo Kongsi Chinese clan house is the

grandest clan house in

Malaysia.

Left: George Town’s colonial architecture. (Picture by Xiquinhosilva)

Left: Foodie heaven.

Above: Kek Lok Si

buddhist temple.

(Shutterstock picture)

Trishaws are still a common sight.(Picture by Jessamy Baldwin)

Batu Ferringhi sunset.

Jessamy and her husband

David at the

wedding of their

friends Kara and Chris

Broadhurst.

Far right: The newlyweds.

11

I LOVE a good wedding. Who doesn’t? In the words of John Paul Young, ‘love is in the air’, there’s champagne galore, you get to catch up with old friends and there’s a feeling of such positivity that no

other occasion can match.I was recently invited to a destination wedding in Penang, a tropical island off the north-west coast of Malaysia, and my husband David and I jumped at the chance to visit this exotic corner of the world. One of his best childhood friends, Kara, was marrying Chris after 10 years together (aaahhh) and it was set to be the wedding of the year.We spent nine days soaking up the sights, thrills and strong cocktails of Penang and if you’re planning a trip to Malaysia soon, it’s well worth a trip to the ‘Pearl of the Orient’.Penang has long served as the link between Asia’s territories and been an important outlet to the markets of Europe and the Middle East. Listed as a Unesco World Cultural Heritage Site in 2008, this lush paradise has no shortage of history, cultural sights and stunning natural scenery. It’s famous for its marble-white sandy beaches, fishing villages, mountainous jungle, farms growing nutmeg/durian and is fondly regarded as the food capital of Malaysia – and for good reason. Our bathroom scales can vouch for this (worth it).There’s an exceptional art scene alongside vibrant festivals and an undeniable enthusiasm from locals and tourists for Penang’s long history and kaleidoscope of cultures. A fascinating fusion of the East and West, Penang cleverly balances modernity while retaining its classic, old world charm.

George TownAt Penang’s heart is diverse yet distinct, quaint yet cosmopolitan George Town. The island’s main city and urban hub delivers old-world Asia in true authentic style and doesn’t disappoint. As Lonely Planet affirms: ‘Think trishaws pedalling past watermarked Chinese shophouses and blue joss smoke perfuming the air.’

Exploring George Town is best done earlier in the day or once the sun has gone down – a lesson we failed to heed but did learn. We set off with SPF 50 slapped on, all gung-ho, wanting a taste of local life, but alas more than a few times had to dive undercover for chicken satay and cold beers for fear of melting onto the pavement. ‘Mad dogs and Englishmen’ after all…Everything can be done on foot, which is great because that’s the best way to explore any city. For a hit of Penang’s multicultural society, start off at the ornate swirling domes of the 1803 Kapitan Keling Mosque. Nearby is an Indian pavement shrine whose worshippers leave fragrant jasmine flowers and crack open coconuts, as well as the Goddess of Mercy Temple – Penang’s foremost Chinese temple – where Buddhists light giant incense sticks and burn ritual offerings.Next, dive into the city’s maze of narrow, bustling streets. Get lost, photograph colonial buildings and if you’re feeling up for it, join a walking tour around the city’s Unesco sights.

Ayer ItamOnce you’ve had your fill of George Town, head towards the centre of the island to bustling Ayer Itam. The friendly town is tourist-free and its colourful markets are worth perusing. Nearby, the Kek Lok Si Temple – the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia – is marked by a towering 30-metre statue of the goddess Kuan Yin.

Penang HillPenang Hill actually covers a number of hills, with the highest point at Western Hill, which is 833m. above sea level. It’s the oldest British hill station in south-east Asia, dating back to the late 1700s, and there’s a nature trail to follow through the rainforest. You can join it after getting off the funicular train that takes visitors up and down.

BeachesThe beaches of Penang are a must-see and I’m sure you need no convincing here. Check out Batu Ferringhi and Tanjung Bungah. Or, take a boat that hugs the coast, stopping off at idyllic Monkey Beach for a swim before arriving at the turtle hatchery and oasis-like meromictic lake at Kerachut Beach.

Tropical Spice GardenThe Tropical Spice Garden – the only spice garden in south-east Asia – is a true gem. Paths lead through landscaped jungle, past hundreds of species of exotic plants, flowers and spice terraces, through water gardens and bamboo groves.

Penang National Park, Balik PulauFrom the Penang National Park headquarters on the north-western tip of the island, you can

trek through dense jungle and enjoy the marine reserve.Around the rest of Balik Pulau, visit the Entopia Butterfly Farm, the Escapeadventure park if you’re bringing kids, durian farms and the Ghee Hup Nutmeg Factory, a reminder of how important the spice trade once was to Penang.

The Penang Botanical Gardens Located in a valley along Jalan Kebun Bunga, the Botanical Gardens are a veritable feast for the eyes (and camera). The gardens feature 12 sections, among them a Tropical Rainforest Jungle Track, Aroid Walkaway and Cactus House. There’s a special ‘monkey path’ that leads up to Penang Hill, which is about an hour’s walk away. It is a steep but highly rewarding trek.

Island hopIf you fancy exploring a little further, hop over to Langkawi island. The ferry

takes around three hours from Penang and it’s a stunning place to

put up your feet and indulge.

Think palm fringed beaches and

turquoise lagoons.

Paradisediscovered

Passport to Penangu Penang Island, off the coast of the Malaysian peninsula, is home to more than 700,000 people in an area measuring 293sq. km.

u The British East India Company founded a trading post on the island in 1786. Together with Singapore and Malacca, the island became part of the Straits Settlements, which became a British crown colony in 1867.

u The island is connected to the mainland by two road bridges. The newest opened in 2014 and is 24km long, making it the longest bridge in south-east Asia.

u More than 50 per cent of the island’s inhabitants claim Chinese ancestry. There are also sizeable ethnic Indian and Malay populations. This cultural mix, along with the island’s colonial links, mean the local cuisine has evolved to include a diverse of different flavours and dishes.

u Malaysia has four offical languages – Malay, English, Chinese and Tamil – however the island also has its own distinct dialect, known as Penang Hokkien.

Frying roti on a giant hotplate. (Sybili Fakih/Shutterstock)

Saturday 27 January 2018