DIY -Coffee Table

7/28/2019 DIY -Coffee Table

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/diy-coffee-table 1/9

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2012

Rhyan Coffee TableCheck out the 31-day series of easy 2x4 projects

The first blog post I ever wrote was a plan for building our Pottery Barn inspiredcoffee table. To this day that has been one of my most popular posts! But I'velearned a lot since I drew up those plans. I know better building techniques and I'm better at drawing with Sketchup. And that's why today's post is an updated plan formy favorite coffee table!

The original cost $700 (it's no longer available) but my husband and I built thistable out of pine for about $60, not including hardware. That was a $640 savings! And we could not be happier with how it turned out! Want to save that money yourself? Give these plans a try! You can also see my original coffee table

plans here, my matching end table plans here, and my matching console here. If you need more inspiration or plans, be sure to check out Ana White's website. Shealso has great tips on wood types, finishing, and building in general. (Check outher plan catalog to browse all the plans available)

Now, down to business! These plans are actually slightly different from thedimensions of the inspiration table and the table I built, but they use standardlumber sizes. I could have saved myself a lot of headaches if I’d thought all thatthrough before I started. Oops. :) But don’t worry, I’ve corrected the plans to makeit easier for you! I also drew this version to accommodate drawer slides (the table I built doesn't have them and works fine, but it would be really nice to have them).

Please read all the directions before beginning, and cut your pieces as you go,measuring before each cut. Use 2” screws or pocket holes with 1 1/4" screws unlessotherwise indicated. Always use glue. Pre-drill and countersink your



screws. Home Improvement stores will generally cut your plywood for you. Askthem to cut your shelves to size to save you some trouble. I have not built fromthese exact plans, so use measure lots to make sure things work out! And don’t forget to check out Knock-Off Wood for more tips!

Shopping List:6 2x2 @ 8’2 1x2 @ 8’1 1x10 @ 10’1 1x8 @ 10’1 1x6 @ 8'1 1x6 @ 10'1 sheet plywood (I used ½” thick)Several small L-Brackets OR Scrap wood6 drawer pulls

Tools:Saw Drill2” screws (or Kreg Jig & 1 1/4" self tapping screws)1 ¼” screws Wood glue Wood filler

Cut List: A) 4 2x2 @ 18” (legs)B) 6 2x2 @ 20” (side rails)C) 2 1/2" plywood @ 7.5 x 20" (side panels)

D) 6 2x2 @ 45” (front & back rails)E) 4 1x2 @ 7 ½” (stiles)F) ½” strips of scrap wood OR several small metal L-Brackets (shelf supports)G) 3 ½” plywood @ 45x20”(shelves)H) 2 1x2 @ 20” (drawer dividers)I) 3 1x2 @ 14 ½” (center divider)J) 6 1x10 @ 11 ¾” (drawer bottoms)K) 6 1x8 @ 14 ¼” (drawer fronts)L) 6 1x6 @ 13 ¼” (drawer backs)M) 12 1x6 @ 9 ¼” (drawer sides)N) 4 1x2 @ 20” (drawer supports)

Step 1: Start by assembling the short ends of the table.

Attach the drawer supports (N) to the side panels (C), lining one up with the topedge and one with the bottom (the rest of my pictures only show the bottomsupport):

Assemble the the legs (A) & side rails (B). Attach the bottom rail between the legs

leaving a 1” gap at the bottom of the leg. Then attach the center rail leaving 7 1/2” in between. Attach the top rail flush with the top of the legs. If you have a Kreg Jig, you will be in good shape! I did this without, just screwed through the legs and intothe rails but it was harder and we probably risked splitting the wood more. But itcan be done:

Insert the side panel (C) in the gap between the bottom and center rails. Keep thedrawer supports flush with the face of the legs to make sure your drawers fitcorrectly later. Attach the panel through the drawer supports using a kreg jig (if youdon't have a kreg jig, you can drill through the rails and legs into the 1x2 drawersupports instead. Do this before attaching the top rail so you have room to work):



Step 2: Connect the short ends.

Once the sides are complete, attach the back bottom & center rails (D) in betweenthe sides. Leave a 1” gap below the bottom rail, and a 7 ¼” gap between the bottomand center rails. They will line up with the rails on the short ends. Repeat for thefront rails:

Step 3: Attach the stiles.

Attach the stiles (E) between the bottom and center rails as shown below. There will be 2 stiles on each side, with 14 ½” between the stiles and the legs. You can use akreg jig or drill through the rails. Repeat for the front stiles:

4. Attach the top rails.

Attach the top rails on the front & back by using a kreg jig or drilling through thelegs:

Step 5: Bottom shelf.

Next you need to cut some ½” strips of wood (F) to use as shelf supports. Leave agap above the supports equal to the thickness of the plywood you will use for theshelves. I used ½” plywood, so I left a ½” gap above the supports for the shelf to sitin. Attach the supports for the bottom shelf as shown above using 1 ¼” screws. Ihad a left over 1x12 laying around, so I cut ½” strips off the side of it, parallel to thegrain. You’ll want to do the supports as you go. For now just do the bottomsupports, then place the bottom shelf, and we'll move on to the middle supports andshelf later:



You could also use small L brackets like these placed around the edges instead of

wood strips: Set the bottom shelf (G)in place. You can attach it with glue and screws or finishing nails, but mine is justsitting in there. Note: this was the tecnhique I used when building my table, but if I did it again I would skip these supports and use my kreg jig to attach the shelf tothe rails with 3/4" kreg screws. However, if you don't have a kreg jig this will dothe trick! Also, if you are planning to use drawer slides I don't think you would even need the bottom shelf!

Step 6: Drawer Dividers

Attach the drawer dividers (H) to the bottom shelf, running between each set of stiles as shown below. Attach by screwing down through the dividers into the shelf:

Step 7. Center Dividers

Then attach the center dividers (I) to the bottom shelf as shown below . Thedividers should be centered between the front & back of the shelf. Note: This is tokeep the drawers from sliding all the way through on my table which doesn't havedrawer slides. If you are using drawer slides, you may not need these either.



Step 8: Center Shelf

Repeat step 4 to attach supports to the center rails as shown below:

Put the shelf in place as show below. If you want you can secure it to the supportsusing glue & 1 ¼” screws:

Step 9: Top Shelf

Repeat step 4 to attach the supports for the top shelf:

And set the top shelf in place and secure it as desired (again, mine is just sitting inthere). Now your basic table is complete!

Step 10: Drawers

You will have 6 drawers total (which is different than the pottery version). Youcould also use baskets instead which would be sweet! If you are not using drawerslides, see my original plan for the drawers instead. To assemble the drawers, start by attaching the sides (M) to the short ends of the bottom (J):



Then attach the drawer back (L), keeping all edges flush:

Now install your drawer slides (before attaching the drawer front). This drawer isdesigned for a standard slide requiring 1/2″ clearance on each side of the drawer. Adjust so that there is an even fit around the drawers and the drawers slidesmooth. Note: if you want more room to work you could assemble the drawersand fit the slides before installing the second and third shelves.

While the drawer box is in place, fit the drawer front (K) onto the front of thedrawer box. Wiggle it around to get the front centered with an equal gap on allsides, then attach the front to the box using glue and finishing nails. Note: trace thebox on the front with a pencil so you have an idea of where you will need to nail.

Step 11: Fill holes, sand and finish as desired.

I went with a dark espresso stain on my table.



But a bright coat of paint would be beautiful too! Maybe teal or yellow?

Step 12: Attach hardware to the drawers and you are done!

To get the same look as the inspiration table we ordered recessed ring pullhardware like thisand used some matching label holders.

We got both in brass and antiqued them ourselves, but now they have other colorsto choose from (and also some neat square pulls!).



The beauty part of home-built furniture is that you have no limitations! Make it your way and make it beautiful!

I hope you enjoy my updated plans. Let me know if you give it a try!

**UPDATE: I have been put to shame. Austin built a table from the plans and itturned out AMAZING! Love the cup handles and the rich color. And the cornerslook so perfect and tidy! (You can check out his pictures here.) Thanks for sharing!



And one more! Paul changed the dimensions to make a sweet square table, put two wider drawers on one side instead of three, and used a two tone finish! It turned outgreat! Thanks for sharing, Paul!

Documents

DIY -Coffee Table