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inH2O: Words & Photos by Rory Pennefather & Les Willows

SEA KAyAK MAuritiuS by rory PEnnEfAthEr (SPringboK PAddlEr)

i joinEd lES AS hiS 'hElPEr' whEn hE tooK 19 EPworth School girlS And four AdultS, on A PAddling tour Around MAuritiuS. thiS two wEEK triP conSiStEd of 11 dAyS of PAddling And two of Sight-SEEing, PArASAiling And ShoPPing, thE lAttEr bEing big in thE lifE of girlS!

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Most of the paddling was done inside the coral reef through calm turquoise seas, past sandy islands and white beaches, while the girls repeatedly leapt overboard to snorkel or swim. Four of the days saw us paddling on big seas beyond the shelter of the reefs, and here the girls braved huge swells as we cruised along the south coast with the most helpful following wind. Pods of dolphins put on great circus shows, leaping and spinning, while massive turtles slid shyly away and flying fish sped across the bows of the boats as they did their best to avoid predators. We crept slowly past the mouth of Port Louise, but the shipping lane presented no problem to the girls who were more concerned with a fish they had caught on a trailing line than the ship bearing down on us at 30 km/h!

Getting through the coral reefs is a necessity to circumnavigate the island, and narrow passes of deep water provide a relatively surf-free route through the sharp and shallow coral. A meticulous knowledge of the coast is needed to get this right, and Les has exactly that. From our view point out at sea, all we could see was a mass of pounding surf with Les venturing forth, his 15-year-old partner holding her paddle upright, signalling, “This is right, follow me.” And like obedient little ducklings the rest of us followed faithfully. The rip flowing out does about four kilometres per hour and the heavily laden c-kayaks can do about five kilometres per hour so it was touch and go at times as to whether we were going in or out! Fortunately no capsizes happened here, for this would have meant an immediate swim out to sea and a second attempt at making it through the pass by a tiring team.

MAuritiuS'S coAStlinE iS unbEliEvAbly bEAutiful And by PAddling Around it, you SEE it All. wE PAddlEd in A clocKwiSE dirEction, which MEAnS you gEt A following wind Along thE South coASt And thiS MAKES thE full triP MorE PoSSiblE. wind And rAin PuMMElS onE A bit on thE EASt coASt, but thE tEMPErAturE nEvEr droPS bElow 27oc And thE rAin lAStS lESS thAn hAlf An hour, So drying out AftEr A ShowEr iS nEvEr A ProblEM.

But perhaps the highlight of the trip is the people. All Mauritians are gentle, friendly and helpful. We slept on beaches at picnic sites, and never once were we harassed by the locals. We experienced no begging, no pilfering and no inquisitive crowds. The police would come around to help and leave a phone number in case we needed them, and the teenage girls could wander freely about the markets and catch buses into town in utmost safety. I would rate Mauritius tops as a sea kayaking destination, but the trip offers more than just the paddling. Les is the ideal tour guide and an experienced paddler who knows the Mauritian coastline intimately. His organisational skills are superb and we all experienced an amazing value-for-money holiday adventure. I have been paddling for over 40 years and I would highly recommend this trip.

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tourinforMAtionby lES willowS

Just a four-hour flight from Johannesburg lies a stunningly beautiful coastline that is regarded as one of the best paddling destinations for both beginner and experienced paddlers, and a must for any adventure seeker to head to. Welcome to the island of Mauritius; referred to by Mark Twain as 'the garden in the ocean'.

Willows Adventure Sports has been arranging memorable outdoor sea-kayaking experiences around the island since 2008, and although the complete circumnavigation of the island takes 11 days, clients can join or leave the group at any stage.

But what makes this sea-kayaking tour so special is that because it's self-supported, and you carry all your food and equipment in the kayaks, you get to experience Mauritius from a different view point; one that not many tourists get to see when they visit the island. Being on the water gives you the opportunity to be a part of the beautiful tropical surrounds as you paddle along the scenic coastline and past small deserted islands. While the evenings are spent camping on different beaches and some remote islands. You also get to meet the friendly locals, sample the local fare, visit the quaint markets and discover more about this little slice of paradise.

To get the maximum enjoyment out of an adventure holiday like this, you do need to have some paddling experience, but beginners can request a training programme that will have them ready by the time they hit the big blue. All the equipment you will need is provided, so you need only concern yourself with making sure your passport is in order. Having a good time is pretty much guaranteed as each day's itinerary is carefully planned to ensure that there's a good balance of paddling and sightseeing.

So if you are still thinking about how where to go for your next adventure holiday, why not try a sea-kayaking holiday in paradise?

tour itinErArydAy 1The morning is spent packing clothes, kit and food into dry bags. Once packed, the fun begins. The route takes the group in a clockwise direction heading south down the East Coast, which is still largely unspoilt and predominantly wild in comparison to the Central Plateau and North Coast, and a place for those seeking authentic local charm, amazing beaches, tranquility, unspoiled coastline and great swimming. It's a short two-and-a-half-hour paddle to the first campsite on an island called île aux Bernache. This amazing, remote island is about two hectares in size and exudes a sense of peace and isolation. As you watch the sun set you get the feeling that you are really on holiday and the stresses and strains of everyday life slowly being to ebb away in harmony with the ocean.

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dAy 2It's an early start to the day to avoid the wind, as most of the day is spent paddling beyond the reef. Heading in a southerly direction takes you to a white sandy beach near the St Geran Hotel. After an extended rest, the group will continue for about an hour before stopping to set up camp at a picnic site on Belle Mare Beach, one of the most gorgeous beaches on the eastern coast of Mauritius.

dAy 3Most of the day is spent paddling in the reef between rocky sections during low tide, to avoid portaging. The snorkelling is particular impressive here. A typical Mauritian lunch is served with some refreshments from the beach restaurant on Illeaux Cerfisland. We finish the day's paddle and set up camp at a picnic spot at Grande Rivière Sud Est.

dAy 4We begin paddling up the river to explore the scenic waterfall on the Grande River before heading out and into the lagoon. Then we'll stop at a fish farm that is situated about one kilometre offshore and is home to more than 2,000 fish, and dive in the holding 'tanks'. This is an experience never to be forgotten!

We'll then continue south towards lle aux Fouquete Island, our campsite for the night. This island is a firm favourite of the trip as it forms part of the reef that's situated about three kilometres away from the main land. From high up on the cliffs you will see the wild ocean from the 'sea side' and calm waters from the 'lagoon side', as you stroll through the ruins of a disused lighthouse from Napoleonic days.

dAy 5A short two-hour paddle brings us to Blue Bay, which provides idyllic snorkelling in the Blue Bay Marine Reserve. Enjoy a culinary experience and excellent hospitality from the Pointe d’Esny Yacht Club before spending some time meandering through the fishing village of Mahébourg, one of the main fishing villages on the island and built on the magnificent Grand Port Bay.

dAy 6 Weather permitting, we continue our paddle along the South Coast to the small seaside resort of Souillac. This stretch resembles the Wild Coast of the Eastern Cape, isolated and wild, with the prevailing south east wind setting the scene for some excellent downwind paddling for the more experienced. There is transport available for those who would prefer to travel by land along the rugged coast of the Savanne district.

dAy 7From Souillac we continue west with a lunch stop at Baie Du Cap. After lunch, the journey continues around the south west corner of the Mauritius mainland. We'll pass the famous le Morne Mountain and then head north up the West Coast. The day ends at the island of île aux Benetiers, a paddler's paradise, in time to witness another perfect Mauritian sunset.

dAy 8We will paddle up the West Coast via Tamarin Bay, a site well known for dolphin sighting. The West Coast has less wind and the paddling becomes easier. After a lunch stop at Flic n’ Flac we will paddle for another hour to Albion, a quaint bay that's ideal for relaxing and snorkelling.

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dAy 9Paddling north beyond the reef, the route crosses the Port Louise Harbour entrance at least two kilometres offshore to avoid shipping traffic, and heads towards the beautiful bay of Tombeau. A short bus ride into Port Louis brings you to the Caudan Waterfront promenade and tourist markets. Built in 1844, the picturesque Port Louis central market is a popular meeting point for those looking for a cari (curry) or dithé (tea), as well as local crafts, vegetables, famous dholl purris and herbal teas. Not to be missed is a visit to Port Louis Chinatown, where you will find traditional foods and almost anything at an affordable price. The Caudan Waterfront is the place to go to sample the best of what Mauritius has to offer. From fast food to gourmet cooking, jewellery and local crafts, there's something to suit all tastes.

dAy 10We'll paddle past the more touristy areas of the island as we make our way towards Mont Choisy. Most of the day can be spent doing the 'touristy' things like paragliding and diving, or you can hire a motor bike, go sailing, and much more. Thereafter, a short bus/taxi ride brings you to Grand Baie, the tourist capital of the island and a leisure and shopping paradise where there are plenty of bargains to be had in the busy markets. Grand Bay, with its restaurant, bars and discos, also happens to be the area Mauritians head to when they want a fun-filled night out.

dAy 11The last day sees the paddlers round the northern point of the island finishing at Grand Gaube, to complete the 180 km circumnavigation. By this stage, not only will you have experienced an amazing adventure, you will have also achieved what less than 100 people have ever done before. But most of all, you return home with a thousand memories and many new friends. •

tour coSt: The price is R16,000.00 all inclusive (return flights from and to Durban via Johannesburg and airport transfers in Mauritius; first and last nights in Mauritius in self-catering accommodation; all meals and accommodation; all equipment including the use of double sit on top sea kayaks, paddles, tents, dry bags, life jackets, etc.)

nExt tour dAtE: The next trip departs from Durban on 4 December 2012 and returns on 18 December 2012.

For more information please visit:www.willowsadventuresports.yolasite.com

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èRelated articles• Paddling the Chobe (Issue #17, Jun/Jul 2012)• Hope. Pray. Paddle. part 2 (Issue #16, Apr/May 2012)• Malibu Classic All Windsurfing Action (Digital article, Sep 2012)

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