DT  Process  Journal               Jan  10th  2011  /  Jan  14th  2011      -­‐  Marking  the  photoframe    Today  we  went  to  the  workshop  to  create  our  product!  I  put  on  the  apron  to  keep  my  body  clean  from   dust   and   wore   hard   shoes   to   protect   my   feet   from   sharp   tools.   I   then   checked   the   cad  drawing   to   get   the   proper   wood   to   mark.   I   picked   the   height   of   18mm   pine   and   marked   the  waterdrop   shape   of   the   photoframe   on   it.   I   erased   over   time   to   get   the   natural   shape   of   the  waterdrop.  In  addition,  I  made  the  waterdrop  thicker  for  putting  the  rebate  joint  in  it.        -­‐  Drilling  holes  on  the  wood    First  of  all,   I  drilled  four  holes  at  the  top,  bottom,  left  and  right  side  of  the  inner  waterdrop  part  (See  figure  1).  Before  working  on  drilling,   I  wore  the  apron  and  the  goggles  to  keep  my  eye  and  body  protected  from  dust  and  machine.  These  holes  made  me  possible  to  cut  the  inner  part  out.  I  adjusted  the  height  of  the  drill  so  it  could  dig  the  wood  well.  After  the  machine  was  turned  on,  I  slowly   pulled   the   handle   down.   I   should   take   time   while   using   this   machine   to   make   the   drill  perfectly  dig  the  hole  on  the  wood.      

                         

Figure  1:  I  was  using  to  drill  the  holes  on  the  wood.  In  the  photograph,  I  was  grabbing  the  handle  to  make   the   drill   get   through   the  wood.   (It   looks   like   I   grabbing   the   drill   due   to   the   angle   but  actually  I  am  grabbing  the  handle).                    

 -­‐  Cutting  the  Photoframe      Secondly,  after  four  holes  were  drilled  on  the  wood,  I  stick  the  wood  to  the  bench  vice  at  the  right  angle   that   I   could  easily   cut   the   curved  part  using   a   coping   saw.   I   then   started   to   cut   the   inner  section  with  a  coping  saw  (See  figure  2).  The  coping  saw  was  often  used  to  cut  the  curved  part.  I  first  pushed  the  coping  saw  with  my  shoulder  and  took  the  blade  out.  I  put  the  blade  into  one  hole  and  cut.  Because  the  coping  saw  was  very  hard  to  control,  there  were  too  many  bumpy  spaces  on  the  wood.  Next  class,  I  had  to  file  and  make  the  surface  smooth.      

     Figure  2:  I  was  using  a  coping  saw  to  cut  inner  photoframe  part.  I  put  one  hand  on  the  wood  to  control  the  coping  saw  in  a  better  way.      -­‐  Learner  Profile  Today  I  was  a  communicator.    As  I  was  cutting  with  the  coping  saw,  I  had  problem  with  taking  out  the  blade.  I  asked  Mr.  Anderson’s  help  on  that  so  I  could  move  to  the  next  process.  In  addition,  I  should  work  with  the  coping  saw  three  times  more,  so  this  would  remove  the  troubles  that  may  happen  in  the  future.    -­‐  Emotion  I  was  satisfied  with  today’s  process.  I  first  worried  about  cutting  the  curved  line  but  I  successfully  cut  the  water  drop  photoframe.  In  addition,  the  trimming  was  very  easy  to  do  with  the  pedestal  drill.  The  machines  I  used  today  were  what  I  had  already  worked  with  so  I  didn’t  have  any  troubles  with  machines.