EAT Magazine Sept | Oct 2012

Cover phot

EAT m

EAT is delive in BC includ Kelowna, Th

Food RepoTofino | U : Anya Levykh, Okanagan: Claire Sear,Victoria: Rebecca BaugnietWeb ReportersDeanna Ladret, Ellie Shortt, Van Doren ChanContributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Ezra Cipes, Jennifer Danter,Jen Dart, Jasmon Dosanj, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, TraceyKusiewicz, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Sandra McKenzie, MichaelaMorris, Elizabeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Elizabeth Smyth, MichaelTourigny, Scott Trudeau, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT is a registered trademark.

Advertising: 250.384.9042, [email protected]

Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4,

Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: [email protected] Website: eatmagazine.ca

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced

without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island

Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed

in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves

the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Main PlatesRECIPESGet Stuffed . . . . . . . . . . . .....24Potatoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .....30

FEATURESOrganic Fair . . . . . . . . . . . ...37

Four Desserts . . . . . . . . . .....46

FESTIVALS + EVENTSChefs Survial Challenge .....8Art of the Cocktail . . . . .....43

2 EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012

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Sidney Summer Market

Salt Spring Market

Goldstream Station MarketSaturdays (10am-2pm), May26-OctDowntown Langford, Bryn Maur Rd

Thursdays (5:30pm-8:30pm), June-AugBeacon Avenue in Sidney

Saturdays (8:30am-4pm), Apr-OctCentennial Park in the heart of Ganges

Metchosin Farmers MarketSundays (11am-2pm), May-Oct4450 Happy Valley Rd, behind the !rehall

Moss Street Market

James Bay Market

Downtown Victoria Public Market

Oaklands Sunset Series

Goldstream Station Market

North Saanich Farm Market


Salt Spring Market

Saturdays (10am-2pm), May-OctCorner of Moss St and Fair!eld Rd

Saturdays (9am-3pm), May-OctCorner of Menzies and Superior

Wednesdays (12pm-5pm), Apr-OctMarket Square, 560 Johnson Street

Wed, Jul 4, Jul 18, Aug 1, Aug 15 (6pm-10pm)Oaklands Community Centre, 2827 Belmont Ave

Saturdays (10am-2pm), May26-OctDowntown Langford, Bryn Maur Rd

Saturdays (9:30am-12:30pm), June-OctSaint Johns United Church, 10990 West Saanich Rd

Peninsula Country MarketSaturdays (9am-1pm), May-Oct1528 Stellys Cross Rd, Central Saanich

Thursdays (5:30pm-8:30pm), Jun-AugBeacon Avenue in Sidney

Saturdays (8:30am-4pm), Apr-OctCentennial Park in the heart of Ganges Metchosin Farmers MarketSundays (11am-2pm), May-Oct4450 Happy Valley Rd, behind the !rehall

The corner of Moss St and Farifield RdRain or shine. MossStreetMarket.com

MossSt.Market

yearst21

Season startsApril 7, 2012

Co"ee & Live Music

Local markets are all about freshness, fun, and community. Vendors of these markets make, bake, and grow everything.

Farmers bring to you their farm-fresh, wholesome foods, fromfruits & vegetables, organics,,meats, seafood, and eggs tospecialty cheese, jams, salsa, donuts, and so much more.

Artisan o"er specialty, one-of-a-kind, locally-made potteryproducts .Connect directly

with local farmers who personally bring their goods to your plate. or the

Enjoy quality seasonal food, picked at the height of its natural harvest.

Take time to support local farmers and artisans in an atmosphere of festivity and community to positively impact your environment by buying within

the shortest distance to where you live. Good for you;

good for everyone.

Jeremy Ferguson

join us for the festival,for further information visit

...savour the experience

3www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012

TapasConcierge Desk . . . . . . . 06

Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .09

Meet the Chef . . . . . . . . .10

Good For You . . . . . . . . .12

Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Eating Well For Less . . . .20

Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .34

Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .36

Wine & Food Pairing . . .38

News from around BC . .39

VINcabulary . . . . . . . . . .42

Epicure At Large . . . . . . .44

Chefs Talk . . . . . . . . . . .47

Cover photography: Pork en Croute by Michael Tourigny

EAT magazine september & october 2012

EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locationsin BC including Victoria, Vancouver,Kelowna, The Islands and the Okanagan

twitter.com/EatMagazine

Facebook/EatMagazine

Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

DRINK Editor Treve RingSenior Wine Writer Larry Arnold

Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear

Food ReportersTofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: Anya Levykh, Okanagan: Claire Sear,Victoria: Rebecca BaugnietWeb ReportersDeanna Ladret, Ellie Shortt, Van Doren ChanContributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Ezra Cipes, Jennifer Danter,Jen Dart, Jasmon Dosanj, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, TraceyKusiewicz, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Sandra McKenzie, MichaelaMorris, Elizabeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Elizabeth Smyth, MichaelTourigny, Scott Trudeau, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT is a registered trademark.

Advertising: 250.384.9042, [email protected]

Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4,

Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: [email protected] Website: eatmagazine.ca

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced

without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island

Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed

in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves

the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Main PlatesRECIPESGet Stuffed . . . . . . . . . . . .....24Potatoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .....30

FEATURESOrganic Fair . . . . . . . . . . . ...37

Four Desserts . . . . . . . . . .....46

FESTIVALS + EVENTSChefs Survial Challenge .....8Art of the Cocktail . . . . .....43

Hometastes like comfort.

Traditional Beef & Vegetable Stew

Visit our recipe section for more of your favourite comfort food.

Customer Service: 1 800 667 8280 thriftyfoods.com

: 1 80eicveromer SustC

thriftyfoods.com280 7 80 66: 1 80

thriftyfoods.com

Donghuamen

Night Market Lamb. Pg 44


Salt Spring Market

Goldstream Station MarketSaturdays (10am-2pm), May26-OctDowntown Langford, Bryn Maur Rd

Thursdays (5:30pm-8:30pm), June-AugBeacon Avenue in Sidney

Saturdays (8:30am-4pm), Apr-OctCentennial Park in the heart of Ganges

Metchosin Farmers MarketSundays (11am-2pm), May-Oct4450 Happy Valley Rd, behind the !rehall

Moss Street Market

James Bay Market

Downtown Victoria Public Market

Oaklands Sunset Series

Goldstream Station Market

North Saanich Farm Market


Salt Spring Market

Saturdays (10am-2pm), May-OctCorner of Moss St and Fair!eld Rd

Saturdays (9am-3pm), May-OctCorner of Menzies and Superior

Wednesdays (12pm-5pm), Apr-OctMarket Square, 560 Johnson Street

Wed, Jul 4, Jul 18, Aug 1, Aug 15 (6pm-10pm)Oaklands Community Centre, 2827 Belmont Ave

Saturdays (10am-2pm), May26-OctDowntown Langford, Bryn Maur Rd

Saturdays (9:30am-12:30pm), June-OctSaint Johns United Church, 10990 West Saanich Rd

Peninsula Country MarketSaturdays (9am-1pm), May-Oct1528 Stellys Cross Rd, Central Saanich

Thursdays (5:30pm-8:30pm), Jun-AugBeacon Avenue in Sidney

Saturdays (8:30am-4pm), Apr-OctCentennial Park in the heart of Ganges Metchosin Farmers MarketSundays (11am-2pm), May-Oct4450 Happy Valley Rd, behind the !rehall

The corner of Moss St and Farifield RdRain or shine. MossStreetMarket.com

MossSt.Market

yearst21

Season startsApril 7, 2012

Co"ee & Live Music

Local markets are all about freshness, fun, and community. Vendors of these markets make, bake, and grow everything.

Farmers bring to you their farm-fresh, wholesome foods, fromfruits & vegetables, organics,,meats, seafood, and eggs tospecialty cheese, jams, salsa, donuts, and so much more.

Artisan o"er specialty, one-of-a-kind, locally-made potteryproducts .Connect directly

with local farmers who personally bring their goods to your plate. or the

Enjoy quality seasonal food, picked at the height of its natural harvest.

Take time to support local farmers and artisans in an atmosphere of festivity and community to positively impact your environment by buying within

the shortest distance to where you live. Good for you;

good for everyone.

Jeremy Ferguson

join us for the festival,for further information visit

...savour the experience

THE ARE SO MANY REASONS TO CELEBRATE THE RETURN OF AUTUMN

FOR ME, SUMMERS are a period of rest. The tone is set for relaxed evenings outdoors and easy dinners on the barbecue. Languid days with trips to thefarmers market, bringing home bags full of fresh-picked vegetables and fruits. If I can leave the office early, I go for a swim with my wife followed by G+Tsor white wine in mismatched glasses on the back deck. Casual and easy. Salty nuts are nibbled, books are read, and ice cream is devoured.Then, the sun begins to set earlier and the nights bring a welcome cool, making it easier to sleep. I get the spring back in my step and my cooking is more

energetic. Market stalls, once filled with lemon cucumbers and strawberries, are now brimming with colourful squashes and various varieties of crisp apples.I anticipate creamy soups and hot chocolate in front of the fire. Cookbooks come out and new recipes are tried. My thoughts turn to slow-braised pork, peartarte tatin and my addiction to cheese returnsrunny Brie de Meaux or an earthy tomme are paired to baguette. Intense red wines are savoured in big Riedel

wine glasses. In September, I begin to anticipate Octobers Thanksgiving with its roast turkey (free-range and ordered weeks in advance) and all the fixins enjoyed with family and friends.

We always try to come up with a big feast to celebrate the occasion, and to set a fine table.Its our custom in EAT to shine the spotlight on all things local and this autumn issue is no different. We visit a new crop of restaurants and cafes, share our recipes (the

pumpkin squares on pg. 26 are awesome), bring you the latest food news, and recommend wines for you to drink. We hope that the best of British Columbia makes its way ontoyour table as the weather cools and a new season arrives. Gary Hynes, Editor

editors note

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 20124 EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012

Monday to Friday7:30am to 6pm

Saturday8am to 5pm

WILD FIREorganic bakery & caf

Proudly milling Vancouver island grown wheatUsing 99% locally grown and certified organic ingredients

250.381.34731517 Quadra Street

Victoria, BC www.wildfirebakery.ca

Hi Toni,

My friend Bill Fedorev told me aboutthis place. He said ...Some of thebest food in this part of the Islandprepared by talented, creative andpassionate people, served right and ina very comfortable atmosphere. Bistro161 adds character, charm and colourto downtown Duncan, making it amust visit place for tourists and aregular spot for locals." Let's try it!

Love Angie

Hi Sara,

Just Jakes is not just an ordinary pub.Great food - wings, pizza, burgers,salads and more. I had the Santa FeVeggie Burger and Dave had theJake's Club and their very ownCowichan Bay lager. And they have aceliac menu! Don't forget to leaveroom for Just Desserts. All I can say Just Jakes is just awesome! Wish youwere here.

Love Theresa

Hi Grace,

You're going to love this. The OldFirehouse is a wine bar in an originalfirehouse in the old town of Duncan.It's got a huge selection of wine andlast Wednesday night I sat and listenedto jazz for a couple of hours. By theway, I had the chicken pesto flatbreadand tried several wines. I can't wait totake you there!

Love Robert

THE ARE SO MANY REASONS TO CELEBRATE THE RETURN OF AUTUMN

FOR ME, SUMMERS are a period of rest. The tone is set for relaxed evenings outdoors and easy dinners on the barbecue. Languid days with trips to thefarmers market, bringing home bags full of fresh-picked vegetables and fruits. If I can leave the office early, I go for a swim with my wife followed by G+Tsor white wine in mismatched glasses on the back deck. Casual and easy. Salty nuts are nibbled, books are read, and ice cream is devoured.Then, the sun begins to set earlier and the nights bring a welcome cool, making it easier to sleep. I get the spring back in my step and my cooking is more

energetic. Market stalls, once filled with lemon cucumbers and strawberries, are now brimming with colourful squashes and various varieties of crisp apples.I anticipate creamy soups and hot chocolate in front of the fire. Cookbooks come out and new recipes are tried. My thoughts turn to slow-braised pork, peartarte tatin and my addiction to cheese returnsrunny Brie de Meaux or an earthy tomme are paired to baguette. Intense red wines are savoured in big Riedel

wine glasses. In September, I begin to anticipate Octobers Thanksgiving with its roast turkey (free-range and ordered weeks in advance) and all the fixins enjoyed with family and friends.

We always try to come up with a big feast to celebrate the occasion, and to set a fine table.Its our custom in EAT to shine the spotlight on all things local and this autumn issue is no different. We visit a new crop of restaurants and cafes, share our recipes (the

pumpkin squares on pg. 26 are awesome), bring you the latest food news, and recommend wines for you to drink. We hope that the best of British Columbia makes its way ontoyour table as the weather cools and a new season arrives. Gary Hynes, Editor


Monday to Friday7:30am to 6pm

Saturday8am to 5pm

WILD FIREorganic bakery & caf

Proudly milling Vancouver island grown wheatUsing 99% locally grown and certified organic ingredients

250.381.34731517 Quadra Street

Victoria, BC www.wildfirebakery.ca

Hi Toni,

My friend Bill Fedorev told me aboutthis place. He said ...Some of thebest food in this part of the Islandprepared by talented, creative andpassionate people, served right and ina very comfortable atmosphere. Bistro161 adds character, charm and colourto downtown Duncan, making it amust visit place for tourists and aregular spot for locals." Let's try it!

Love Angie

Hi Sara,

Just Jakes is not just an ordinary pub.Great food - wings, pizza, burgers,salads and more. I had the Santa FeVeggie Burger and Dave had theJake's Club and their very ownCowichan Bay lager. And they have aceliac menu! Don't forget to leaveroom for Just Desserts. All I can say Just Jakes is just awesome! Wish youwere here.

Love Theresa

Hi Grace,

You're going to love this. The OldFirehouse is a wine bar in an originalfirehouse in the old town of Duncan.It's got a huge selection of wine andlast Wednesday night I sat and listenedto jazz for a couple of hours. By theway, I had the chicken pesto flatbreadand tried several wines. I can't wait totake you there!

Love Robert

Dear Mom and Dad,

Its our first year anniversary at CitySquare Grill. Being a youngentrepreneur, I never thought toaccomplish my dream of owing arestaurant. Ive introduced many localwineries, fresh local seafood, primerib and feature live music. Alsogetting involved in the kitchenwhether filleting a 40lb Halibut tobaking our triple chocolate moussetower has been an amazing journey.Cant wait for you to visit!

Love Jaimie

Hey big brother,

As an architect you'd appreciate this1940's pub that was just newlyrenovated. It has exposed beams anda 100 year old bar that serves the bestfresh hand-crafted brews. I had theHeff, Chris' new wheat brew and theBBQ pulled pork ciabatta. You'd loveit. I'll take you there next time you'rein town. My treat.

Steve

Dear Friends,

If you like organic food, holistichealth and sustainable living, youmust check out the bright yellowfunky building called the DuncanGarage. Inside you will find the mostamazing health and whole foodgrocery store, vegetarian caf, bakeryand natural living marketplace onVancouver Island. We even have abookstore. Its truly the hub ofDuncan.

See you soon!Community Farm Store team

Bistro 161161 Kenneth St

Duncan250.746.6466bistro161.net

Just Jakes45 Craig Street Duncan, BC 250.746.5622justjakes.ca

The Old Firehouse WineBar

40 Ingram StreetDuncan, BC 250.597.3473

theoldfirehouse.ca

City Square Grill281 Canada Avenue

Duncan, BC250.746.1700

citysquaregrill.com

Craig Street Brew Pub25 Craig Street Duncan, BC250.737.2337 craigstreet.ca

The Community Farm Store 101-330 Duncan St.

Duncan, BCStore: 250.748.6227

Caf & Bakery: 250.748.6223communityfarmstore.ca

SEPTEMBERMORNING BAY'S WINESTOCK MUSIC FESTIVAL (PENDER ISLAND)Winestock is an all-day rock and roll festival at Morning Bay's oceanfront vineyardDave Rave is one of the iconic pioneers (Teenage Head, The Shakers) of the 1977 punkexplosion. Reserve Winestock tickets anytime. Contact [email protected]. Rusticcamping with access to washrooms is $10 per tent per night. Bring your own water andpower. Sept 1. (morningbay.ca/Winestock-music-festival.php)

THE GREAT CANADIAN BEER FESTIVAL (VICTORIA)The Great Canadian Beer Festival has become one of the worlds' must-attend beerevents. People from all over the globe seek out Victoria and the GCBF every year; theevent attracts brewers from Australia, volunteers from England and beer lovers fromall over. In support of C-Fax Santa's Anonymous, the GCBF will be held Sept 7 8.(gcbf.com)

EAT HERE NOW 2012 LOCAL FOOD HARVEST FESTIVAL (VICTORIA)Free, family-friendly harvest festival featuring local farmers market, toonie-a-taste fromamazing restaurants that support local agriculture, huge Kids Zone, local musiciansand DJs. Organized by the VDPMS. All proceeds will go towards the establishment ofa year-round, indoor public market in downtown Victoria. Sept. 9 from 11am-3pm inMarket Square. (victoriapublicmarket.com)

FEAST OF FIELDS (METRO VANCOUVER AND VANCOUVER ISLAND)Metro Vancouvers Feast of Fields is taking place at Golden Ears Cheesecrafters in MapleRidge this year on Sept. 9. Vancouver Islands Feast of Fields will be held at AlderleaFarm in Duncan, Sept. 16. The event highlights the connections between producerand chef, field and table, and farm folks and city folks. This is a gastronomic journeytowards a sustainable, local food system. $85 (children 7-12: $15; children 6 and under:free). Buy tickets online at feastoffields.com.

WINE & CULINARY FESTIVAL (COWICHAN)The 8th Cowichan Wine and Culinary Festival will take place Sept 8-16. The Festivaloffers an assortment of the areas best wines and ciders, unique farm-fresh delightsfrom organic farms, live entertainment, green Earth seminars, and hand-blown glass-ware. To spend your day at the festival simply follow the detailed map available on theofficial website, or pick up the festival brochure at local businesses and tourist infocenters. Many WIVA wineries, cideries & meaderies will be pouring at this festival!(wines.cowichan.net)

TASTES OF APRIL POINT (QUADRA ISLAND)September 14 - 16. Indulge your taste buds in everything from international andVancouver Island wines and cheeses to exotic teas, gourmet cuisine, Mediterraneanolives, succulent oysters, chocolate, biodynamic wines and more during this weekendof delightful indulgence. Weekend Packages start at: $389. For more information, call1-800-663-7090 or visit aprilpoint.com/resort/events/tastes/2nd ANNUAL CORK AND KEG FESTIVAL (FRASER VALLEY)The second edition of this event is a showcase of international and local wines, craftand premium beer as well as local cheesemakers and chocolatiers. The consumer eventruns from 7:00 pm to 10:00 pm and ticket registration is available online. The Cork &Keg Festival will host 600 attendees from the Fraser Valley area and showcasing 55wine and beer purveyors sampling over 275 products. Sept. 14 (corkandkeg.ca)

FRASER VALLEY FOOD SHOW (ABBOTSFORD)The Fraser Valley Food Show will be held Sept 14-15 at the TRADEX Fraser Valley Trade& Exhibition Centre in Abbotsford, BC. Experience food both local and international,celebrity chef demonstrations, cooking competitions, sausage making competitions,cheese and wine seminars, Bite of the Valley participating restaurants and the Grapesand Hops wine/beer/spirits tasting pavilion. (fraservalleyfoodshow.com)

CHEFMEETSBCGRAPE (VANCOUVER)

75 BC wineries will be sharing more than 300 BC VQA wines, perfectly paired withregional dishes from top Ocean Wise partner restaurants, and showcasing why BCfood is designed for BC wine. September 20, 7:00 PM- 9:30 PM, VancouverConvention Centre Eastwinebc.org/news


FINDING FOOD IN ALL THE RIGHT PLACES (VICTORIA)A panel discussion on alternative ways to buy local food and support a local foodeconomy. Panelists include visiting UK Bread activist Andrew Whitley and GuyJohnston of the Michelle Rose Community Supported Fishery. In the Garry Oak Roomat the Fairfield Community Centre. Entrance by donation. Sept 21 from 6.30-9pm.

SIP AND SAVOUR SALT SPRING (SALT SPRING ISLAND)This festival brings together growers, food providers and chefs from Salt Spring Islandand neighbouring Gulf Islands, Cowichan Valley and Saanich Peninsula with vintnersrepresenting the wine growing regions of British Columbia. On Saturday evening, at6:30pm, talented local chefs and winemakers will create a five-course dinner to beheld at Channel Ridge Farm in their heritage wooden barn. There will only be 120tickets sold for this Gala Winemakers Dinner at $150.00 per person (taxes andgratuity included). Sept. 22-23. (sipandsavoursaltspring.com)

THE NORTH ISLANDS GOURMET PICNIC (COMOX VALLEY)Sunday Sept. 23 from 1-4pm. A culinary showcase of some of Vancouver Islands finestchefs, vintners and producers. Takes place at Coastal Black Estate Winery andMeadery 2186 Endall Road For tickets and more info visit gourmetpicnic.ca

TASTE OF NEW ZEALAND & TASTE OF GERMANY (VICTORIA)Sept 25 & Oct 23 at Paprika Bistro. $39 - 4-course wine & food tasting with StuartBrown. For details visit or call paprika-bistro.com 250.592.7424

BC WINE AWARDS RECEPTION & TASTING (FRASER VALLEY)This event kicks off the 2012 Fall Okanagan Wine Festival and includes theannouncement of the award winning wines from the 2012 Fall Judging Competition.This medal-winning wines competition is judged by world-renowned judges judgingthe wines produced by our member wineries. The announcement will be followed bya reception including fabulous tapas, canaps and the opportunity to be one of the fewto taste a selection of some of these award-winning wines while you still can. Sept 29.(OkanaganWineAwards.com)

MADRONA FARMS CHEF SURVIVAL CHALLENGE (VICTORIA)

The 5th Annual Chef Survival Challenge will take place at Madrona Farm on Sunday,Sept 30, from noon to 6pm. Tickets are $50 per person/ $100 per family, and are nowavailable at the Madrona Farm Vegetable Stand, 4217 Blenkinsop Road. Cheer on theregion's finest chefs as they compete to find the best ingredients on the farm, then bidon the meals they create. Prizes and gift certificates from participating restaurants willbe given away as well! (chefsurvivalchallenge.com)

OCTOBERJAMES BARBER FUNDRAISER FOR PROVIDENCE FARM (DUNCAN)This will be the second annual fundraiser for Providence Farm. The theme this year willbe local honey with chefs preparing savoury and sweet dishes with this local treat.Tickets will be available through the office at Providence Farm and will be $125 for anafternoon filled with local food, wines, beers and mead. Last years event sold out, somake sure you get your tickets early. Oct 7. Call (250) 746 4204 for tickets. Or visitfacebook: Cowichan Chefs Table.

ART OF THE COCKTAIL (VICTORIA)The Art of the Cocktail is a special weekend long event fundraiser for the Victoria FilmFestival. The Grand Cocktail Tasting returns and public tastings and special events willbe held from Oct 13-15. (artofthecocktail.ca).

BAKERS MARKET (VANCOUVER)A gathering of professional, amateur, student & mom bakers who get together to buyand sell their baked goods to the community. Inspired by farmers markets (no veggiesplease), just lots of sweet & savoury baked goodies. Saturdays, from 11am-3pm, at theMoberly Arts and Cultural Centre, 7646 Prince Albert Street, Vancouver. Oct 6 Dec8. (bakersmarket.com)

THE 20TH ANNUAL BITE OF NANAIMO (NANAIMO)Oct. 19 from 4pm- 9pm at the Beban Park Auditorium. The 19th Annual Bite ofNanaimo is a tasty fundraiser for TheatreOne. Tickets available now. (theatreone.org).

coming up...WINTER BLUES BBQ (UCLULET) Nov 3. Annual outdoor BBQ featuringlive music by Headwater! and Marc Crissinger. Adam Protter of Big Smoke MountainBBQ will be here again serving up his award winning BBQ meats and homemadesauces. Outdoor tenting, signature bourbon bar and all you can eat gourmet BBQ andside dishes. Black Rock Resort. Tickets available at 1-877-762-5011. blackrockresort.com

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

SEPTEMBERMORNING BAY'S WINESTOCK MUSIC FESTIVAL (PENDER ISLAND)Winestock is an all-day rock and roll festival at Morning Bay's oceanfront vineyardDave Rave is one of the iconic pioneers (Teenage Head, The Shakers) of the 1977 punkexplosion. Reserve Winestock tickets anytime. Contact [email protected]. Rusticcamping with access to washrooms is $10 per tent per night. Bring your own water andpower. Sept 1. (morningbay.ca/Winestock-music-festival.php)

THE GREAT CANADIAN BEER FESTIVAL (VICTORIA)The Great Canadian Beer Festival has become one of the worlds' must-attend beerevents. People from all over the globe seek out Victoria and the GCBF every year; theevent attracts brewers from Australia, volunteers from England and beer lovers fromall over. In support of C-Fax Santa's Anonymous, the GCBF will be held Sept 7 8.(gcbf.com)

EAT HERE NOW 2012 LOCAL FOOD HARVEST FESTIVAL (VICTORIA)Free, family-friendly harvest festival featuring local farmers market, toonie-a-taste fromamazing restaurants that support local agriculture, huge Kids Zone, local musiciansand DJs. Organized by the VDPMS. All proceeds will go towards the establishment ofa year-round, indoor public market in downtown Victoria. Sept. 9 from 11am-3pm inMarket Square. (victoriapublicmarket.com)

FEAST OF FIELDS (METRO VANCOUVER AND VANCOUVER ISLAND)Metro Vancouvers Feast of Fields is taking place at Golden Ears Cheesecrafters in MapleRidge this year on Sept. 9. Vancouver Islands Feast of Fields will be held at AlderleaFarm in Duncan, Sept. 16. The event highlights the connections between producerand chef, field and table, and farm folks and city folks. This is a gastronomic journeytowards a sustainable, local food system. $85 (children 7-12: $15; children 6 and under:free). Buy tickets online at feastoffields.com.

WINE & CULINARY FESTIVAL (COWICHAN)The 8th Cowichan Wine and Culinary Festival will take place Sept 8-16. The Festivaloffers an assortment of the areas best wines and ciders, unique farm-fresh delightsfrom organic farms, live entertainment, green Earth seminars, and hand-blown glass-ware. To spend your day at the festival simply follow the detailed map available on theofficial website, or pick up the festival brochure at local businesses and tourist infocenters. Many WIVA wineries, cideries & meaderies will be pouring at this festival!(wines.cowichan.net)

TASTES OF APRIL POINT (QUADRA ISLAND)September 14 - 16. Indulge your taste buds in everything from international andVancouver Island wines and cheeses to exotic teas, gourmet cuisine, Mediterraneanolives, succulent oysters, chocolate, biodynamic wines and more during this weekendof delightful indulgence. Weekend Packages start at: $389. For more information, call1-800-663-7090 or visit aprilpoint.com/resort/events/tastes/2nd ANNUAL CORK AND KEG FESTIVAL (FRASER VALLEY)The second edition of this event is a showcase of international and local wines, craftand premium beer as well as local cheesemakers and chocolatiers. The consumer eventruns from 7:00 pm to 10:00 pm and ticket registration is available online. The Cork &Keg Festival will host 600 attendees from the Fraser Valley area and showcasing 55wine and beer purveyors sampling over 275 products. Sept. 14 (corkandkeg.ca)

FRASER VALLEY FOOD SHOW (ABBOTSFORD)The Fraser Valley Food Show will be held Sept 14-15 at the TRADEX Fraser Valley Trade& Exhibition Centre in Abbotsford, BC. Experience food both local and international,celebrity chef demonstrations, cooking competitions, sausage making competitions,cheese and wine seminars, Bite of the Valley participating restaurants and the Grapesand Hops wine/beer/spirits tasting pavilion. (fraservalleyfoodshow.com)

CHEFMEETSBCGRAPE (VANCOUVER)

75 BC wineries will be sharing more than 300 BC VQA wines, perfectly paired withregional dishes from top Ocean Wise partner restaurants, and showcasing why BCfood is designed for BC wine. September 20, 7:00 PM- 9:30 PM, VancouverConvention Centre Eastwinebc.org/news

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012 7

FINDING FOOD IN ALL THE RIGHT PLACES (VICTORIA)A panel discussion on alternative ways to buy local food and support a local foodeconomy. Panelists include visiting UK Bread activist Andrew Whitley and GuyJohnston of the Michelle Rose Community Supported Fishery. In the Garry Oak Roomat the Fairfield Community Centre. Entrance by donation. Sept 21 from 6.30-9pm.

SIP AND SAVOUR SALT SPRING (SALT SPRING ISLAND)This festival brings together growers, food providers and chefs from Salt Spring Islandand neighbouring Gulf Islands, Cowichan Valley and Saanich Peninsula with vintnersrepresenting the wine growing regions of British Columbia. On Saturday evening, at6:30pm, talented local chefs and winemakers will create a five-course dinner to beheld at Channel Ridge Farm in their heritage wooden barn. There will only be 120tickets sold for this Gala Winemakers Dinner at $150.00 per person (taxes andgratuity included). Sept. 22-23. (sipandsavoursaltspring.com)

THE NORTH ISLANDS GOURMET PICNIC (COMOX VALLEY)Sunday Sept. 23 from 1-4pm. A culinary showcase of some of Vancouver Islands finestchefs, vintners and producers. Takes place at Coastal Black Estate Winery andMeadery 2186 Endall Road For tickets and more info visit gourmetpicnic.ca

TASTE OF NEW ZEALAND & TASTE OF GERMANY (VICTORIA)Sept 25 & Oct 23 at Paprika Bistro. $39 - 4-course wine & food tasting with StuartBrown. For details visit or call paprika-bistro.com 250.592.7424

BC WINE AWARDS RECEPTION & TASTING (FRASER VALLEY)This event kicks off the 2012 Fall Okanagan Wine Festival and includes theannouncement of the award winning wines from the 2012 Fall Judging Competition.This medal-winning wines competition is judged by world-renowned judges judgingthe wines produced by our member wineries. The announcement will be followed bya reception including fabulous tapas, canaps and the opportunity to be one of the fewto taste a selection of some of these award-winning wines while you still can. Sept 29.(OkanaganWineAwards.com)

MADRONA FARMS CHEF SURVIVAL CHALLENGE (VICTORIA)

The 5th Annual Chef Survival Challenge will take place at Madrona Farm on Sunday,Sept 30, from noon to 6pm. Tickets are $50 per person/ $100 per family, and are nowavailable at the Madrona Farm Vegetable Stand, 4217 Blenkinsop Road. Cheer on theregion's finest chefs as they compete to find the best ingredients on the farm, then bidon the meals they create. Prizes and gift certificates from participating restaurants willbe given away as well! (chefsurvivalchallenge.com)

OCTOBERJAMES BARBER FUNDRAISER FOR PROVIDENCE FARM (DUNCAN)This will be the second annual fundraiser for Providence Farm. The theme this year willbe local honey with chefs preparing savoury and sweet dishes with this local treat.Tickets will be available through the office at Providence Farm and will be $125 for anafternoon filled with local food, wines, beers and mead. Last years event sold out, somake sure you get your tickets early. Oct 7. Call (250) 746 4204 for tickets. Or visitfacebook: Cowichan Chefs Table.

ART OF THE COCKTAIL (VICTORIA)The Art of the Cocktail is a special weekend long event fundraiser for the Victoria FilmFestival. The Grand Cocktail Tasting returns and public tastings and special events willbe held from Oct 13-15. (artofthecocktail.ca).

BAKERS MARKET (VANCOUVER)A gathering of professional, amateur, student & mom bakers who get together to buyand sell their baked goods to the community. Inspired by farmers markets (no veggiesplease), just lots of sweet & savoury baked goodies. Saturdays, from 11am-3pm, at theMoberly Arts and Cultural Centre, 7646 Prince Albert Street, Vancouver. Oct 6 Dec8. (bakersmarket.com)

THE 20TH ANNUAL BITE OF NANAIMO (NANAIMO)Oct. 19 from 4pm- 9pm at the Beban Park Auditorium. The 19th Annual Bite ofNanaimo is a tasty fundraiser for TheatreOne. Tickets available now. (theatreone.org).

coming up...WINTER BLUES BBQ (UCLULET) Nov 3. Annual outdoor BBQ featuringlive music by Headwater! and Marc Crissinger. Adam Protter of Big Smoke MountainBBQ will be here again serving up his award winning BBQ meats and homemadesauces. Outdoor tenting, signature bourbon bar and all you can eat gourmet BBQ andside dishes. Black Rock Resort. Tickets available at 1-877-762-5011. blackrockresort.com

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

8 EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012 www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012

food matters by Julie Pegg

Buckle, Slump and Grunt

FROM BEHIND THE CAR WASH in Pemberton wafts the sweet aroma of fresh baking.I follow it to the Good Life Caf and spy a wiry and energetic 70-ish woman taking alarge cake pan from the oven. Its fruit buckle. Bet you dont know that term, shesays, slicing into the cake, then offering me a generous sample. I do, I say. I usedto live in New England. (home of the buckle). Cynthia grins. She hails from Maine.A buckle is fruit-laden coffee cake. Good Lifes version is dense with lots of berries,

yet possesses a delicate crumb. Sugar and cinnamon in the floury topping is neithertoo much nor too little. With a steaming mug of roasty java, its a lovely dessert forbreakfast.Buckles are in the same camp as grunts, slumps, cobblers, crumbles or crisps, betties

and pandowdies. Most are mired in New England cookery and the best are made withripe fruit at the peak of the season. Excepting buckle, which is made with cake batter,they are essentially no-pastry pies. Rather than a top and bottom pie crust, dumplingor biscuit dough is dropped onto sweetened fruit, or pieces of chilled butter pebble amix of flour and sugar. Sometimes oats are added to sweetened fruit. Sometimes bread-crumbs are used. The pudding is then baked or steamed. Opinions vary widelyregarding the difference between a cobbler and a crisp, or a slump and a grunt. Shoulda buckle be layered with fruit or have the fruit mixed in? Should it be served upsidedown? Really, it doesnt matter a fig (or apple, or peach, or blueberry). Upside downor right side up, they are all pretty darn delicious.The crazy names mimic what happens in the pan during cooking. With a cobbler,

side-by-side drop biscuits rise to look like cobblestones. Crumble toppings crisp ina hot oven. Fruit buckles in batter or slumps in the pan, or grunts as it stews inits juices. The etymology of pandowdy is uncertain. I think it may be a corruptionof pain, the French word for bread, and dowdy, meaning plain. Because tasty as itis, I wouldnt call this piemade with apples, brown sugar or molasses, and brokendough piecespretty. Where the name Betty comes from escapes me, but it too relieson apples, spiced and layered amidst breadcrumbs.With some help from Google and A History of Food, I patch together how these

fruit-and starch puddings likely came about.Colonial settlers did what they could with what they had in order to riff on their

beloved steamed puddings. They brought the apple to America and planted orchards.Apples thrived. They also stored well. Blueberries and blackberries grew wild. Thepeach did particularly well in the South. The farms cows and chickens offered milkand eggs. Flour was no doubt milled from homegrown wheat. It seems sugar was easyto come by. I can picture poorer folk using stale bread for toppings, and lard insteadof butter for fat when making biscuits or dumplings.Ill bet, too, fancy bakeware was scarce. That would necessitate cooking sweet things

in the same skillets, Dutch ovens and earthenware used to braise meat. These fruitstews were not just desserts. They provided the worker with ballast before a hard dayswork in field or forge.My bookcase holds a well-thumbed copy of Fine Old New England Recipes (Culinary

Arts Press) I bought in Massachusetts 40 years ago. Recipes for berry grunt andHyannis slump, blueberry Betty and apple pandowdy with pudding sauce, which is aconcoction of eggs, sugar and brandy, are as easy to make now as then. June Platts NewEngland Cook Book (McClelland and Stewart, 1971) also offers easy methods formaking slumps, buckles and crisps. These fruit and starch puddings soon made it tothe Maritimes. Nova Scotia, known for its abundance of wild, lowbush blueberries, putits own signature on blueberry grunt. My favourite recipe for this dessert comes fromOut of Old Nova Scotia Kitchens (H.H. Marshall 1981). I cant think of a better way to celebrate a crisp fall day than a basket of firm, sweet

apples or wild berries made into one of these early country desserts. Excuse me whileI grunt and slump to the kitchen.

For recipes for blueberry grunt and the apple pandowdy, log on to www.eatmagazine.ca.Good Life Caf, 7318 Industrial Way, Pemberton, B.C., 604-698-1253

These traditional fruit desserts taste much better than they sound.

community causes by Joseph Blake

Chef Survival Challenge

WHEN I VISITED Madrona Farm recently, Nathalie Chambers was out by the chickenhouse feeding her heritage hens and gathering eggs. A passionate, self-described advocate for agricultural ecology, the young farmer was full of news about theBlenkinsop Road propertys upcoming Chef Survival Challenge on September 30 fromnoon to 5 p.m.The event, now in its fifth year, showcases the culinary art and physical endurance

of two dozen of Victorias best chefs who insist upon local, sustainable produce. Theycompete in a farm-style obstacle course and forage for produce used in unique cook-ing demonstrations. Their culinary masterpieces are then auctioned off to the crowd,and the chef whose meal receives the highest bid wins the coveted Golden BroccoliTrophy. The event includes the by-now-infamous boat race to condiment island,an irrigation-pipe crawl, haystack hurdles and more. A catered meal, live music andchildrens activities are included in the $40 admission ($100 for families; wine and beerfor purchase).Its been just over two years since the farm was bought by the Land Conservancy of

B.C. after an outpouring of support that helped raise funds to conserve the 27-acrefarm run by David and Natalie Chambers. David is a farmer following in the footstepsof his grandfather Lawrence, who began farming Madrona in 1951. Lawrences wife,Ruth Chambers, fought for decades to save Blenkinsop Valleys agricultural roots, andNathalie feels a strong kinship with her efforts.When David and Nathalie married and moved to Madrona in 1999, she began her

own battle to save the farm through what she calls agricultural ecologycreatinghigh levels of biodiversity, which is the best way to create sustainability.We have the greatest bird diversity in Victoria, more than 50 species, Chambers

explained. And you should hear the roar the frogs in our pond make at night. Imworking on a native pollinator enhancement project. We have 450 native species ofbees in B.C. and that biodiversity is the solution to the disease created by importedhoneybees.The event is an important fundraiser for the farm, which is clearly not resting on any

laurels now it is owned by the TLC. Im not going to sit around and let the currentrecession dictate our food security, says Nathalie. I learned from our campaign tosave Madrona Farm that Im an agricultural fundraiser4,500 people contributed $2.7million to save the farm. Ive created a new project, the Big Dream Farm Fund, forthis years Chef Survival Challenge.Eighty percent of the Big Dream Farm Fund will go towards farmland acquisition,

the other 20 percent for agriculture sustainability education, Chambers explains.Were also planning a travelling road show to take the Chef Survival Challenge acrossCanada, and several networks are interested in turning it into a reality show.Ever since David and I started our Roadside Chefs Cooking Demonstrations at the

stand on Blenkinsop Road, Ive thought of the farm as an imagination playground.The first Chef Survival Challenge in 2008 put Madrona Farm on the map, and it getsbigger and better every year.For info and tickets, visit www.chefsurvivalchallenge.com or Madrona Farm Gate, 4317

Blenkinsop Rd. Wed-Sat 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Madrona Farms popular harvest feast, now in its fifth year,proves the farm is survivingand thriving.

BACK IN SESSION THIS FALL...

www.hestercreek.com

Courtesy of C

hefs Survival


food matters by Julie Pegg

Buckle, Slump and Grunt

FROM BEHIND THE CAR WASH in Pemberton wafts the sweet aroma of fresh baking.I follow it to the Good Life Caf and spy a wiry and energetic 70-ish woman taking alarge cake pan from the oven. Its fruit buckle. Bet you dont know that term, shesays, slicing into the cake, then offering me a generous sample. I do, I say. I usedto live in New England. (home of the buckle). Cynthia grins. She hails from Maine.A buckle is fruit-laden coffee cake. Good Lifes version is dense with lots of berries,

yet possesses a delicate crumb. Sugar and cinnamon in the floury topping is neithertoo much nor too little. With a steaming mug of roasty java, its a lovely dessert forbreakfast.Buckles are in the same camp as grunts, slumps, cobblers, crumbles or crisps, betties

and pandowdies. Most are mired in New England cookery and the best are made withripe fruit at the peak of the season. Excepting buckle, which is made with cake batter,they are essentially no-pastry pies. Rather than a top and bottom pie crust, dumplingor biscuit dough is dropped onto sweetened fruit, or pieces of chilled butter pebble amix of flour and sugar. Sometimes oats are added to sweetened fruit. Sometimes bread-crumbs are used. The pudding is then baked or steamed. Opinions vary widelyregarding the difference between a cobbler and a crisp, or a slump and a grunt. Shoulda buckle be layered with fruit or have the fruit mixed in? Should it be served upsidedown? Really, it doesnt matter a fig (or apple, or peach, or blueberry). Upside downor right side up, they are all pretty darn delicious.The crazy names mimic what happens in the pan during cooking. With a cobbler,

side-by-side drop biscuits rise to look like cobblestones. Crumble toppings crisp ina hot oven. Fruit buckles in batter or slumps in the pan, or grunts as it stews inits juices. The etymology of pandowdy is uncertain. I think it may be a corruptionof pain, the French word for bread, and dowdy, meaning plain. Because tasty as itis, I wouldnt call this piemade with apples, brown sugar or molasses, and brokendough piecespretty. Where the name Betty comes from escapes me, but it too relieson apples, spiced and layered amidst breadcrumbs.With some help from Google and A History of Food, I patch together how these

fruit-and starch puddings likely came about.Colonial settlers did what they could with what they had in order to riff on their

beloved steamed puddings. They brought the apple to America and planted orchards.Apples thrived. They also stored well. Blueberries and blackberries grew wild. Thepeach did particularly well in the South. The farms cows and chickens offered milkand eggs. Flour was no doubt milled from homegrown wheat. It seems sugar was easyto come by. I can picture poorer folk using stale bread for toppings, and lard insteadof butter for fat when making biscuits or dumplings.Ill bet, too, fancy bakeware was scarce. That would necessitate cooking sweet things

in the same skillets, Dutch ovens and earthenware used to braise meat. These fruitstews were not just desserts. They provided the worker with ballast before a hard dayswork in field or forge.My bookcase holds a well-thumbed copy of Fine Old New England Recipes (Culinary

Arts Press) I bought in Massachusetts 40 years ago. Recipes for berry grunt andHyannis slump, blueberry Betty and apple pandowdy with pudding sauce, which is aconcoction of eggs, sugar and brandy, are as easy to make now as then. June Platts NewEngland Cook Book (McClelland and Stewart, 1971) also offers easy methods formaking slumps, buckles and crisps. These fruit and starch puddings soon made it tothe Maritimes. Nova Scotia, known for its abundance of wild, lowbush blueberries, putits own signature on blueberry grunt. My favourite recipe for this dessert comes fromOut of Old Nova Scotia Kitchens (H.H. Marshall 1981). I cant think of a better way to celebrate a crisp fall day than a basket of firm, sweet

apples or wild berries made into one of these early country desserts. Excuse me whileI grunt and slump to the kitchen.

For recipes for blueberry grunt and the apple pandowdy, log on to www.eatmagazine.ca.Good Life Caf, 7318 Industrial Way, Pemberton, B.C., 604-698-1253

These traditional fruit desserts taste much better than they sound.

community causes by Joseph Blake

Chef Survival Challenge

WHEN I VISITED Madrona Farm recently, Nathalie Chambers was out by the chickenhouse feeding her heritage hens and gathering eggs. A passionate, self-described advocate for agricultural ecology, the young farmer was full of news about theBlenkinsop Road propertys upcoming Chef Survival Challenge on September 30 fromnoon to 5 p.m.The event, now in its fifth year, showcases the culinary art and physical endurance

of two dozen of Victorias best chefs who insist upon local, sustainable produce. Theycompete in a farm-style obstacle course and forage for produce used in unique cook-ing demonstrations. Their culinary masterpieces are then auctioned off to the crowd,and the chef whose meal receives the highest bid wins the coveted Golden BroccoliTrophy. The event includes the by-now-infamous boat race to condiment island,an irrigation-pipe crawl, haystack hurdles and more. A catered meal, live music andchildrens activities are included in the $40 admission ($100 for families; wine and beerfor purchase).Its been just over two years since the farm was bought by the Land Conservancy of

B.C. after an outpouring of support that helped raise funds to conserve the 27-acrefarm run by David and Natalie Chambers. David is a farmer following in the footstepsof his grandfather Lawrence, who began farming Madrona in 1951. Lawrences wife,Ruth Chambers, fought for decades to save Blenkinsop Valleys agricultural roots, andNathalie feels a strong kinship with her efforts.When David and Nathalie married and moved to Madrona in 1999, she began her

own battle to save the farm through what she calls agricultural ecologycreatinghigh levels of biodiversity, which is the best way to create sustainability.We have the greatest bird diversity in Victoria, more than 50 species, Chambers

explained. And you should hear the roar the frogs in our pond make at night. Imworking on a native pollinator enhancement project. We have 450 native species ofbees in B.C. and that biodiversity is the solution to the disease created by importedhoneybees.The event is an important fundraiser for the farm, which is clearly not resting on any

laurels now it is owned by the TLC. Im not going to sit around and let the currentrecession dictate our food security, says Nathalie. I learned from our campaign tosave Madrona Farm that Im an agricultural fundraiser4,500 people contributed $2.7million to save the farm. Ive created a new project, the Big Dream Farm Fund, forthis years Chef Survival Challenge.Eighty percent of the Big Dream Farm Fund will go towards farmland acquisition,

the other 20 percent for agriculture sustainability education, Chambers explains.Were also planning a travelling road show to take the Chef Survival Challenge acrossCanada, and several networks are interested in turning it into a reality show.Ever since David and I started our Roadside Chefs Cooking Demonstrations at the

stand on Blenkinsop Road, Ive thought of the farm as an imagination playground.The first Chef Survival Challenge in 2008 put Madrona Farm on the map, and it getsbigger and better every year.For info and tickets, visit www.chefsurvivalchallenge.com or Madrona Farm Gate, 4317

Blenkinsop Rd. Wed-Sat 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Madrona Farms popular harvest feast, now in its fifth year,proves the farm is survivingand thriving.

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1327 Beach Drive at the Oak Bay Marina

Courtesy of C

hefs Survival


Make Every Occasion Special

463 Belleville Street, Victoria lll#]diZa\gVcYeVX^X#Xdb

Award winning fi ne dining, an intimate setting and exceptional service are just a few reasons l]n ZkZgndXXVh^dc^cI]ZBVg`^hjc[dg\ZiiVWaZ#

Call 250-380-4487 to make your

reservation today. GARRETT SCHACKS WORLD is spinning fast even if his workaday domain high atop

the Chateau Victoria is a stable city-view restaurant rather than a rotating one

(contrary to what some tipsy customers may attest, he says with a chuckle). Schack and

his young family of four have just bought a house. Hes shooting his first season as host

of CHEK Victorias cooking show Yum (airing Mondays at 8 p.m.). Hes putting in

volunteer hours with the Pacific Salmon Foundation. And hes into his fifth year of

running the show at the hotels Vista 18 and its lobby-level sister establishment Clives

Classic Lounge.

Its a busy and full life, yet Im comfortable with the pace and Ive never been

happier, says Schack, 37. Relaxed and smiling in his starched whites, hes a key part

in Vista 18s evolution from suit-and-tie formality to a more cosmopolitan vibe that

matches the panoramic views with chefs brand of Pacific Northwest cuisine. The

menus now about 80 percent local, and thats a credit to the amazing suppliers around

hereSaanich Organics, Eagle Paws Organics, Sea Bluff Farm, FAS and so many

others.

Born in Prince George, Schack spent his teenage years as a military brat in Lahr,

Germany, where he developed a taste for potato pancakes and the noodle dish

sptzle. He landed in Victoria in his early 20s and studied at Camosun College under

Gilbert Noussitou, one of his VIP mentors then and now. The insights Gilbert gave

me on how to cook, run a business and manage life as a chef were invaluable.

Mel OBrien trained him in the art of preparing locally sourced food in his first post-

college job at the Marina Restaurant. Schack refined those skills at Canoe Brewpub

when he was hired by chef (and now best friend) Kevin Gomes in 2002. His first test

of fire as an executive chef was at Temple Restaurant and Lounge before Clive Piercy

brought him to Vista 18 in 2007 for what has been a satisfying run in the citys eye-

candy aerie.

Simplicity is one of the entre categories on Schacks dinner menu, and that says

it all about his philosophy. We keep things light and fresh in a way that allows the

food to speak for itself, he explains. The quintessential dish here is my walnut-

crusted halibut served with a savoury rhubarb galette and some lightly dressed arugula

for that peppery bite. While theres no window in the kitchen, he says its always a

pleasure to wander out from backstage to encounter a postcard sunset. I like to think

the food is as good as the view, but some may disagree, he says, looking out towards

Beacon Hill Park and laughing again. Happy man, and a happily homegrown menu.

View Finder

The sumptuously simple cuisine of Vista 18s Garrett Schack.

chef profile by Jeff BatemanRebecca W

ellman

Perfec tly placedto make

f ine wine and good fr iends.

tinhorn.com

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Make Every Occasion Special

463 Belleville Street, Victoria lll#]diZa\gVcYeVX^X#Xdb

Award winning fi ne dining, an intimate setting and exceptional service are just a few reasons l]n ZkZgndXXVh^dc^cI]ZBVg`^hjc[dg\ZiiVWaZ#

Call 250-380-4487 to make your

reservation today.

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GARRETT SCHACKS WORLD is spinning fast even if his workaday domain high atop

the Chateau Victoria is a stable city-view restaurant rather than a rotating one

(contrary to what some tipsy customers may attest, he says with a chuckle). Schack and

his young family of four have just bought a house. Hes shooting his first season as host

of CHEK Victorias cooking show Yum (airing Mondays at 8 p.m.). Hes putting in

volunteer hours with the Pacific Salmon Foundation. And hes into his fifth year of

running the show at the hotels Vista 18 and its lobby-level sister establishment Clives

Classic Lounge.

Its a busy and full life, yet Im comfortable with the pace and Ive never been

happier, says Schack, 37. Relaxed and smiling in his starched whites, hes a key part

in Vista 18s evolution from suit-and-tie formality to a more cosmopolitan vibe that

matches the panoramic views with chefs brand of Pacific Northwest cuisine. The

menus now about 80 percent local, and thats a credit to the amazing suppliers around

hereSaanich Organics, Eagle Paws Organics, Sea Bluff Farm, FAS and so many

others.

Born in Prince George, Schack spent his teenage years as a military brat in Lahr,

Germany, where he developed a taste for potato pancakes and the noodle dish

sptzle. He landed in Victoria in his early 20s and studied at Camosun College under

Gilbert Noussitou, one of his VIP mentors then and now. The insights Gilbert gave

me on how to cook, run a business and manage life as a chef were invaluable.

Mel OBrien trained him in the art of preparing locally sourced food in his first post-

college job at the Marina Restaurant. Schack refined those skills at Canoe Brewpub

when he was hired by chef (and now best friend) Kevin Gomes in 2002. His first test

of fire as an executive chef was at Temple Restaurant and Lounge before Clive Piercy

brought him to Vista 18 in 2007 for what has been a satisfying run in the citys eye-

candy aerie.

Simplicity is one of the entre categories on Schacks dinner menu, and that says

it all about his philosophy. We keep things light and fresh in a way that allows the

food to speak for itself, he explains. The quintessential dish here is my walnut-

crusted halibut served with a savoury rhubarb galette and some lightly dressed arugula

for that peppery bite. While theres no window in the kitchen, he says its always a

pleasure to wander out from backstage to encounter a postcard sunset. I like to think

the food is as good as the view, but some may disagree, he says, looking out towards

Beacon Hill Park and laughing again. Happy man, and a happily homegrown menu.

View Finder

The sumptuously simple cuisine of Vista 18s Garrett Schack.

chef profile by Jeff Bateman

Rebecca Wellm

an

Perfec tly placedto make

f ine wine and good fr iends.

tinhorn.com


CORN ON THE COB belongs to the same small elite food group as artichokes, crab andlobster: these four foods are the perfect juicy excuse to eat a lot of melted butter. Usingbutter spiked with garlic or herbs adds another dimension of tempting taste. Whetheryou use a knife to spread butter over steaming rows of niblets, or roll hot cobs in acommunal slab of butter until each kernel is glistening and dripping gold, eating cornon the cob in the sunshine is the epitome of fall harvest delights.The maize plant, an ancient wild cereal grass native to North and South America, is

the ancestor of sweet corn. Columbus brought maize back to Spain and from there itwas introduced to the rest of Europe. Cultivated corn cropped up more than 3,000years ago in the southwestern United States, where it was a staple food for NativeAmericans and played an important role as the Sacred Mother and Giver of Life.Most cultivated corn is eaten by livestock; only 17 percent is sweet corn, which is whatwe humans eat. Sweet corn was not widely available in North America until the 1850s.For local corn, check out Abby Lane Farm (Duncan), Smyths Market Garden and

Galey Farms Corn Maze and Market (Saanich), Gobind Farms and Silverill Corn(Saanichton), Sluggett Farms (Brentwood Bay), Fernandes Fruit Market (Osoyoos) andMcMillan Farms (Kelowna) as well as local farmers markets in September.Without corn, there would be no nachos, no bourbon, no moonshine. We couldnt

flip cornmeal johnnycakes, shove hoecakes into a wood oven on a hoe, or cook up amess of samp, loblolly, hasty pudding or hominy grits. We couldnt munch anysuffering succotashcorn, kidney beans and dog meat cooked in bear greaseadaptedby pilgrims from the American Indian dish misickquatash. (Locro de choclo, adelicious South American version, is made by simmering corn, grilled green peppers,tomatoes, onions, parsley, garlic, lima beans and squash, pumpkin or zucchini.) With-out niblets, we couldnt concoct hush puppies (cornmeal batter fried in a fish skilletand tossed to the hounds to keep them from drooling over their masters fish fry).And no imaginative Italian would have invented polenta. Corn salads are a delicious way to take advantage of the fall harvest. Here are some

ideas: corn, tomato, red onion, blue cheese and basil salad; corn and chipotle peppersalad; arugula corn salad with bacon; corn and black bean salad with basil lime vinai-grette; and quinoa salad with corn, edamame, cukes, lemon zest, mint, basil and redonion. There are endless ways to riff on corn chowder; adding lobster makes it superscrumptious.And here is a hot tip for removing niblets off the cob. Drape a towel over the hole

of a bundt pan (to protect the pan), place a shucked cob upright in the hole, and cutthe kernels off using downward strokes with a sharp knife.To grill corn, peel husks back, remove silk, replace husks and tie with kitchen string.

Soak unhusked cobs in water for 20 minutes and drain. Grill cobs, covered, overmedium-high heat for 20 to 30 minutes, turning several times, until husks are black-ened and corn is tender.Corn is at its peak of flavour immediately after it is harvested, when its sugar begins

converting to starch. Refrigerating freshly harvested, unhusked corn helps postponethe sugar-to-starch conversion. Dont shuck the husks until the pot of water is boiling.Set the table with a slab of butter, corn on the cob-shaped corn holders, sea salt, plentyof napkins and a pillar of dental floss.

get fresh COOKING BY THE SEASON by Sylvia Weinstock

Aw Shucks

EAT magazine September + October 2012 edition

good for you by Pam Durkin

B.C.s New Nordic DietThe latest diet trend is chockfull of healthy fare harvestedright here in B.C.

Corn on the cob is a luscious late summer ritual, butthe sweet niblets have many other uses.

FOR YEARS, HEALTH professionals have touted the Mediterranean diet as the worldshealthiest eating plan. But regional cuisine from a much cooler climate than the sun-drenched Mediterranean is poised to steal that distinction. The New Nordic Diet,based on traditional, local fare from Scandinavia, is wowing nutrition experts world-wide and has many declaring it even more beneficial to health than the much heraldedMediterranean diet. Thats good news for British Columbians, as there are strikingsimilarities between the local fare harvested in B.C. and that of the Nordic countries.The New Nordic Diets preeminent proponent is Danish chef Claus Meyer, co-

founder of the Copenhagen restaurant Noma, which was recently crowned bestrestaurant in the world for the third year in a row by British trade magazineRestaurant and its Worlds 50 Best Restaurants list. Long known for his artfulpresentation of local cuisine, Meyer sought to scientifically legitimize a diet he feltwould be environmentally sound, beneficial to health and in line with the principlesof sustainable agriculture. Working with faculty from the department of humannutrition at the University of Copenhagen, Meyer developed the New Nordic Dietbased on the foods traditionally eaten in Scandinavian countries before McDonaldsand Starbucks became ubiquitous. The rustic diet emphasizes home cooking anduses such ingredients native to the Nordic region as cold water fish, wild berries, fruitslike apples and pears, root vegetables, cold climate greens like cabbage, kale andBrussels sprouts, grains grown in the region (barley, rye and oats) and lean game meatslike reindeer, venison and rabbit. In addition, Meyer recommends the liberal use ofcondiments such as local honey, molasses, fresh herbs and artisanal vinegar.Cold water fish, berries, greensis this sounding vaguely familiar? Though B.C. is

undoubtedly a reindeer-free zone, the rest of this healthy bounty can easily beprocured in B.C. Like the Nordic region, the provinces waters contain an abundanceof cold water fish like salmon and halibut that are chockfull of heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. And our choice of berries even exceeds that of our Scandinavian friends.Blueberries, blackberries, currants, cranberries, strawberries, raspberries, salmon berries,black raspberriestheyre all readily available herein the wild or cultivated by ourlocal fruit growers. Root vegetables and cold climate greens are plentiful here too, asare apples and pears. Thanks to the Peace River Regions B.C. Grain GrowersAssociation, we can also enjoy grown in B.C. barley, rye and oats. And though gamemeats like venison and rabbit are not everyday items you can find in your localsupermarket, they are becoming increasingly available at specialty markets through-out the province.Clearly, just like the Scandinavians, we have all the bounty we need to create our

own, world-class, health-enhancing diet, without having to adhere to a diet planbetter suited for sunnier, warmer shores. The problem is, not enough of us are eatingthese foods on a regular basis. We eschew local artisanal products for cheaper, mass-produced fare flown in from afar or we grill asparagus from Mexico, marinated inGreek olive oil to toss in our Italian pasta because weve been led to believeMediterranean cuisine is optimal for good health. But is it? Many nutritionists feelthe Nordic diet supersedes the Mediterranean diet in several ways. First, it is muchricher in omega-3 fatty acidsessential fats that have been proven to combat heartdisease, osteoporosis, Alzheimers and some types of cancer. And the whole grains inthe diet provide superior nutrition to the refined wheat productspasta, pizza doughand polentawhich form the basis for many Mediterranean dishes. In addition, theemphasis on antioxidant-rich berries, both fresh and dried, moves the Nordic diet tothe head of the class when it comes to reducing the risk for heart disease and cancer.Furthermore, the Nordic diet provides more lean protein and complex carbohydratesthan its Mediterranean counterpart, making it the winner when it comes to healthyweight maintenance.Its evident that making our local, cold-climate fare the most dominant source of

our sustenance is a healthy choicewhether we call it the Nordic diet or re-christenit the B.C. diet.

Corn SalsaServe this delicious salsa with searedscallops, seasonal fish, grilled meat, fishtacos, corn on the cob or corn chips.Using grilled corn instead of boiled cornadds a yummy smoky flavour.

2 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded andcoarsely choppedNiblets from one ear of corn1 shallot, peeled and cut into thin strips

1 clove garlic, minced fine1 tsp lime juice1 Tbsp cilantro, coarsely choppedSalt and pepper to taste1 Tbsp walnut oil

Boil corn niblets in a small amount ofwater until tender. Drain. Mix corn withshallots, garlic, lime juice, cilantro andtomatoes. Taste and season with saltand pepper. Add walnut oil and stir tocombine.


CORN ON THE COB belongs to the same small elite food group as artichokes, crab andlobster: these four foods are the perfect juicy excuse to eat a lot of melted butter. Usingbutter spiked with garlic or herbs adds another dimension of tempting taste. Whetheryou use a knife to spread butter over steaming rows of niblets, or roll hot cobs in acommunal slab of butter until each kernel is glistening and dripping gold, eating cornon the cob in the sunshine is the epitome of fall harvest delights.The maize plant, an ancient wild cereal grass native to North and South America, is

the ancestor of sweet corn. Columbus brought maize back to Spain and from there itwas introduced to the rest of Europe. Cultivated corn cropped up more than 3,000years ago in the southwestern United States, where it was a staple food for NativeAmericans and played an important role as the Sacred Mother and Giver of Life.Most cultivated corn is eaten by livestock; only 17 percent is sweet corn, which is whatwe humans eat. Sweet corn was not widely available in North America until the 1850s.For local corn, check out Abby Lane Farm (Duncan), Smyths Market Garden and

Galey Farms Corn Maze and Market (Saanich), Gobind Farms and Silverill Corn(Saanichton), Sluggett Farms (Brentwood Bay), Fernandes Fruit Market (Osoyoos) andMcMillan Farms (Kelowna) as well as local farmers markets in September.Without corn, there would be no nachos, no bourbon, no moonshine. We couldnt

flip cornmeal johnnycakes, shove hoecakes into a wood oven on a hoe, or cook up amess of samp, loblolly, hasty pudding or hominy grits. We couldnt munch anysuffering succotashcorn, kidney beans and dog meat cooked in bear greaseadaptedby pilgrims from the American Indian dish misickquatash. (Locro de choclo, adelicious South American version, is made by simmering corn, grilled green peppers,tomatoes, onions, parsley, garlic, lima beans and squash, pumpkin or zucchini.) With-out niblets, we couldnt concoct hush puppies (cornmeal batter fried in a fish skilletand tossed to the hounds to keep them from drooling over their masters fish fry).And no imaginative Italian would have invented polenta. Corn salads are a delicious way to take advantage of the fall harvest. Here are some

ideas: corn, tomato, red onion, blue cheese and basil salad; corn and chipotle peppersalad; arugula corn salad with bacon; corn and black bean salad with basil lime vinai-grette; and quinoa salad with corn, edamame, cukes, lemon zest, mint, basil and redonion. There are endless ways to riff on corn chowder; adding lobster makes it superscrumptious.And here is a hot tip for removing niblets off the cob. Drape a towel over the hole

of a bundt pan (to protect the pan), place a shucked cob upright in the hole, and cutthe kernels off using downward strokes with a sharp knife.To grill corn, peel husks back, remove silk, replace husks and tie with kitchen string.

Soak unhusked cobs in water for 20 minutes and drain. Grill cobs, covered, overmedium-high heat for 20 to 30 minutes, turning several times, until husks are black-ened and corn is tender.Corn is at its peak of flavour immediately after it is harvested, when its sugar begins

converting to starch. Refrigerating freshly harvested, unhusked corn helps postponethe sugar-to-starch conversion. Dont shuck the husks until the pot of water is boiling.Set the table with a slab of butter, corn on the cob-shaped corn holders, sea salt, plentyof napkins and a pillar of dental floss.

get fresh COOKING BY THE SEASON by Sylvia Weinstock

Aw Shucksgood for you by Pam Durkin

B.C.s New Nordic DietThe latest diet trend is chockfull of healthy fare harvestedright here in B.C.

Corn on the cob is a luscious late summer ritual, butthe sweet niblets have many other uses.

FOR YEARS, HEALTH professionals have touted the Mediterranean diet as the worldshealthiest eating plan. But regional cuisine from a much cooler climate than the sun-drenched Mediterranean is poised to steal that distinction. The New Nordic Diet,based on traditional, local fare from Scandinavia, is wowing nutrition experts world-wide and has many declaring it even more beneficial to health than the much heraldedMediterranean diet. Thats good news for British Columbians, as there are strikingsimilarities between the local fare harvested in B.C. and that of the Nordic countries.The New Nordic Diets preeminent proponent is Danish chef Claus Meyer, co-

founder of the Copenhagen restaurant Noma, which was recently crowned bestrestaurant in the world for the third year in a row by British trade magazineRestaurant and its Worlds 50 Best Restaurants list. Long known for his artfulpresentation of local cuisine, Meyer sought to scientifically legitimize a diet he feltwould be environmentally sound, beneficial to health and in line with the principlesof sustainable agriculture. Working with faculty from the department of humannutrition at the University of Copenhagen, Meyer developed the New Nordic Dietbased on the foods traditionally eaten in Scandinavian countries before McDonaldsand Starbucks became ubiquitous. The rustic diet emphasizes home cooking anduses such ingredients native to the Nordic region as cold water fish, wild berries, fruitslike apples and pears, root vegetables, cold climate greens like cabbage, kale andBrussels sprouts, grains grown in the region (barley, rye and oats) and lean game meatslike reindeer, venison and rabbit. In addition, Meyer recommends the liberal use ofcondiments such as local honey, molasses, fresh herbs and artisanal vinegar.Cold water fish, berries, greensis this sounding vaguely familiar? Though B.C. is

undoubtedly a reindeer-free zone, the rest of this healthy bounty can easily beprocured in B.C. Like the Nordic region, the provinces waters contain an abundanceof cold water fish like salmon and halibut that are chockfull of heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. And our choice of berries even exceeds that of our Scandinavian friends.Blueberries, blackberries, currants, cranberries, strawberries, raspberries, salmon berries,black raspberriestheyre all readily available herein the wild or cultivated by ourlocal fruit growers. Root vegetables and cold climate greens are plentiful here too, asare apples and pears. Thanks to the Peace River Regions B.C. Grain GrowersAssociation, we can also enjoy grown in B.C. barley, rye and oats. And though gamemeats like venison and rabbit are not everyday items you can find in your localsupermarket, they are becoming increasingly available at specialty markets through-out the province.Clearly, just like the Scandinavians, we have all the bounty we need to create our

own, world-class, health-enhancing diet, without having to adhere to a diet planbetter suited for sunnier, warmer shores. The problem is, not enough of us are eatingthese foods on a regular basis. We eschew local artisanal products for cheaper, mass-produced fare flown in from afar or we grill asparagus from Mexico, marinated inGreek olive oil to toss in our Italian pasta because weve been led to believeMediterranean cuisine is optimal for good health. But is it? Many nutritionists feelthe Nordic diet supersedes the Mediterranean diet in several ways. First, it is muchricher in omega-3 fatty acidsessential fats that have been proven to combat heartdisease, osteoporosis, Alzheimers and some types of cancer. And the whole grains inthe diet provide superior nutrition to the refined wheat productspasta, pizza doughand polentawhich form the basis for many Mediterranean dishes. In addition, theemphasis on antioxidant-rich berries, both fresh and dried, moves the Nordic diet tothe head of the class when it comes to reducing the risk for heart disease and cancer.Furthermore, the Nordic diet provides more lean protein and complex carbohydratesthan its Mediterranean counterpart, making it the winner when it comes to healthyweight maintenance.Its evident that making our local, cold-climate fare the most dominant source of

our sustenance is a healthy choicewhether we call it the Nordic diet or re-christenit the B.C. diet.

A fresh and casual approach to seafood and sushi at Victorias

most spectacular seaside setting. Watch the sunset from

the heated oceanfront patios. Enjoy our Chefs seasonally

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Corn SalsaServe this delicious salsa with searedscallops, seasonal fish, grilled meat, fishtacos, corn on the cob or corn chips.Using grilled corn instead of boiled cornadds a yummy smoky flavour.

2 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded andcoarsely choppedNiblets from one ear of corn1 shallot, peeled and cut into thin strips

1 clove garlic, minced fine1 tsp lime juice1 Tbsp cilantro, coarsely choppedSalt and pepper to taste1 Tbsp walnut oil

Boil corn niblets in a small amount ofwater until tender. Drain. Mix corn withshallots, garlic, lime juice, cilantro andtomatoes. Taste and season with saltand pepper. Add walnut oil and stir tocombine.

The Roost Farm Centre is a visionary concept. The 10-acre NorthSaanich property was bought at auction by Hamish Crawford in1989 when the federal government removed the acreage from theSaanich Peninsulas Experimental Farm. The Scottish-Canadianfarmer launched his own agricultural experiment, planting appletrees and a field of hard red spring wheat. For several years, heraised ostriches. Another couple started a garden centre at theRoost, and in 2002, a bakery was added using flour from graingrown and milled on the farm.Hamishs daughter, Sarah, grew up there. And when she marriedDallas Bohl, the son of one her fathers oldest friends, the youngcouple bought into the burgeoning Roost in 2007 adding a blue-berry field, sheep, a wood-fired pizza oven and a winery showcas-ing the farms Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir Precoce andLeon Millot grapes. Next came a bistro with an ever-expandingmenu of soups, salads, pizzas and seasonal main courses. Duringthe summer, local bands play Thursdays to Saturdays, 5:30 p.m. to9 p.m.I visited the Roost recently, sitting on the patio with Dallas Bohl,executive chef John DeBiens and one of the farms young cooks,Melanie Castle. Together we sample an artichoke dip and Roostflatbread, local roasted duck pizza, and the Garden Pizza(featuring a neighbouring farms shiitake mushrooms) accompaniedby chilled Siegerrebe, the farms blended red wine, and one of theRoosts signature cocktails, a red wine Caesar. A Danish couple dining nearby suggests we try the authentic DanishKringels. The succulent pastries are a treat as are the bakeryschewy chocolate cookies. (So is the savoury pulled pork pie I takehome and sample later.) We introduced full butter pastry and meatpies this year, and were already selling 400 tourtires a week,says chef DeBiens. Our customers and flexible menu based onfresh ingredients direct our growth.My tour of the farm includes the wheat field, flour mill, sheepmeadow and chicken yard, Hamishs classic car collection, anexotic menagerie containing rabbits, turkeys and golden pheasants,and a vegetable garden where David Mr. Organic Friend mentorsKelset Elementary School students in organic gardening. In anopen-sided greenhouse, Hamish is growing two huge pumpkins.Hes won the Saanich Fairs blue ribbon four years in a row, hislargest, an 873-pound giant.If there is any doubt that Hamish Crawford thinks big, Bohl showsme a model of The Roosts current proposala Scottish castle withnine-room B&B, restaurant and special events hall.Hamish keeps coming up with ideas to expand the business,explains DeBiens. As we wrap up our tour, we encounter a bazooka-like air gun. Bohldemonstrates by loading a rubber chicken with gravel and stuffing itin the cannon.Actually, the whole farm is a front for this gun, DeBiens jokes as,with a resounding bang, the rubber chicken sails over the busy farmand into the organic vegetable garden. Proving that even a seriousbusiness like the Roost Farm Centre neednt be too serious.BY JOSEPH BLAKE

Where chefs, foodies andknife nerds shop

2983 Pandosy St. Kelowna, BCswww.knifewear.com

sHANDMADE*APANESEKITCHENKNIVESsKNIFESHARPENINGBYHANDsCLASSICSHAVINGGEAR


In a day and age when food and coffee can be political, trendyand fad-focused, as well as a social-echelon indicator, MacchiatoCaffe upholds deliberate attention and dedication to good food,appealing and comfortable decor and truly lovely coffee. Maurizio and Massimo Segato (Italian Food Imports) opened theirfirst Macchiato Caffe at Broughton and Broad six years ago, beforethe onslaught of Victorias fervent coffee culture craze. Theybrought in Sean Sloat as co-owner shortly thereafter. The threeopened Macchiatos second location in March. There is much beautiful coffee in this town; theirs is Caffe Umbria.But its the food and decor that set Macchiato Caffe apart. The cafoffers a range of delicious, housemade food as well as outsourcedbaked goods. The Italian Mix salad with abruzzo salami, mildprovolone, chickpeas, artichoke hearts, carrot and parsley in abalsamic vinaigrette is delicious, a mess of texture and solid flavour.The Caprese Saladcherry bocconcini, grape tomatoes, pittedolives, artichoke hearts in a lemon-basil vinaigrettewas a delight toenjoy on the sunlit patio. (The owners will be looking for a licensesome time next year.) A Thai chicken soup, intense and rich, was adissonant combination with the salads, but still lush. The Parisbaguette with Tuscan ham, Swiss cheese, leaf lettuce and buttercomes in a deeply seeded baguette, fresh and chewy. But Im weakin the knees for the simple grilled ham and cheese croissant (BubbyRoses) for slower mornings after faster evenings.About the breads: Origin, Bubby Roses, Portofino, Il Forno diClaudio and Bond Bonds all have carefully appointed places in thegorgeous cases at Macchiato Caffe. We like something from eachof them, explains Sloat, with a smile. His energy and sincerity match the aesthetic of this cool, chic andinviting venue. The seats, all-white, elegant, but cozy, are part of thealluring and soothing comingling of Old World and new: the bestbaguette from here, the best croissant from there, the best biscottifrom yet another place with a mess of 30+ professionals and otherfine folk nattering, laptopping or reading. Macchiato Caffe offersOld World attention to food and flavour in a welcoming urbansetting.Macchiato means marked or stained. It is also the name of oneof the baristas more refined and careful espresso beverages.Macchiato Caffe is a distinguished, tasty place, so, to my mind,aptly named. Brava and grazie. BY GILLIE EASDON

Macchiato Caffe

Rebecca Wellm

an

The Roost Farm Centre | 9100 East SaanichRoad, North Saanich | roostfarmcentre.com| 250.655.0075

Macchiato Caffe | 780 Johnson St. (at theJuliet) | Victoria | 250.590.5985

Simply connect the dots on the Lakeshore Wine Route to discover the heritage of the Okanagans oldest vineyards: CedarCreek, St. Hubertus, Summerhill and Tantalus. With tastings, tours and dining, we are all only a short scenic drive from downtown Kelowna. Come spend the day with us.

one spectacular wine route.

okanagan lake

lak

eshore

rd

lake

shor

e rd

dehart r

d

barnaby rd

gord

on d

r

craw

ford

rd

stew

art

rd w

pine-grove rd

hobso

n rd

tantalus vineyards

st. hubertus estate winery

cedarcreek estate winery

summerhill pyramid winery

kelowna

reporter Victoria & Vancouver IslandA Roost in North Saanich

A former Cobble Hill hobby farm graced by old fruit trees, Fochgrapevines and a thriving garden is now home to Amus on theVineyard and Unsworth Vineyards.Chef Brad Boisvert and wife Leah saw the 1895 farmhouse on thisbeautiful property as a perfect replacement for his popular Shawni-gan Lake location. Brad already had a connection to the farm; theprevious owner had provided the restaurant with vegetables. Com-mitted to preserving its sturdy bones, Brad retained the homes origi-nal flooring and wainscotted sitting and dining areas. Generalcontractor Tom Humber upgraded the house using local lumber. Healso constructed the new airy Foch Lounge. The bar is made withTahsis marble and the lounges iron chandelier was fashioned by alocal artisan. The restaurant is a seamless blend of traditional andmodern.Restaurant and winery (which was bought by Tim and Colleen Turykin 2009) are now in full swing.Amuss menu is shortfour appetizers and as many mains, anddesserts. Ingredients are sourced locally. Included among the all-BCwine list are four reds and four whites by taster, glass or half-litre, in-cluding, of course, offerings from Unsworth Vineyards.Molasses bread, cheddar biscuits and caraway crackers are allmade in-house. A velvety blend of potato and garlic scapes servedchilled, riffs off vichyssoise (in a very good way). Napped witharugula pesto and Montana cheese, it is a splendid starter.Wafer-thin beet chips and raspberries add salt/sweet purpose to asalad of Little Qualicum Blue Cheese, quail egg and MorbettaFarms greens (mizuna, Pac Choy, pea shoots, dill and baby lettuceleaves) tossed with strawberry-green-peppercorn vinaigrette.Rhubarb and ginger chutney gives lift to rich duck pt. Salmon ter-rine is defined by its coarser-than-pt texture. Pan-roasted lingcodon a bed of nutty quinoa salad comes to the table piping hot. Sliversof baby zucchinis, juicy grape tomatoes and mini-patty pan add thegrace notesspot on with Unsworth Pinot Grigio.Coq au vin sausage in a lunchtime cassoulet, I have heard, is stand-out. There is also a promise of pork belly in the dish. It is a must onmy next visit, when I will also leave room for panna cotta before nip-ping back to the winery for a sip of Ovation, a port-style wine madefrom those old Foch grapes.BY JULIE PEGG

Amus on the Vineyard | Unsworth Vineyards,2915 Cameron Taggart Rd., Cobble Hill, B.C. |250.743.3667 | amuseonthevineyard.com

Amus

Chamomile-lavender tea-scented scallops (from Island Wineries of British Columbia)

Continued on page 16

Where chefs, foodies andknife nerds shop

2983 Pandosy St. Kelowna, BCswww.knifewear.com

sHANDMADE*APANESEKITCHENKNIVESsKNIFESHARPENINGBYHANDsCLASSICSHAVINGGEAR


In a day and age when food and coffee can be political, trendyand fad-focused, as well as a social-echelon indicator, MacchiatoCaffe upholds deliberate attention and dedication to good food,appealing and comfortable decor and truly lovely coffee. Maurizio and Massimo Segato (Italian Food Imports) opened theirfirst Macchiato Caffe at Broughton and Broad six years ago, beforethe onslaught of Victorias fervent coffee culture craze. Theybrought in Sean Sloat as co-owner shortly thereafter. The threeopened Macchiatos second location in March. There is much beautiful coffee in this town; theirs is Caffe Umbria.But its the food and decor that set Macchiato Caffe apart. The cafoffers a range of delicious, housemade food as well as outsourcedbaked goods. The Italian Mix salad with abruzzo salami, mildprovolone, chickpeas, artichoke hearts, carrot and parsley in abalsamic vinaigrette is delicious, a mess of texture and solid flavour.The Caprese Saladcherry bocconcini, grape tomatoes, pittedolives, artichoke hearts in a lemon-basil vinaigrettewas a delight toenjoy on the sunlit patio. (The owners will be looking for a licensesome time next year.) A Thai chicken soup, intense and rich, was adissonant combination with the salads, but still lush. The Parisbaguette with Tuscan ham, Swiss cheese, leaf lettuce and buttercomes in a deeply seeded baguette, fresh and chewy. But Im weakin the knees for the simple g

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EAT Magazine Sept | Oct 2012