TOUR I SM INPROT EC T EDAREAS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Welcome to Ecuador!How this guide is organizedKey to symbolsMap of Ecuador’s protected areas

Galápagos

Galápagos National Park andMarine Reserve

Pacific Coast

Galera-San Francisco Marine ReserveMachalilla National ParkManglares-Churute Ecological Reserve

Andes

El Ángel Ecological ReserveCotacachi-Cayapas Ecological ReservePululahua Geobotanical ReservePasochoa Wildlife RefugeAntisana Ecological ReserveEl Boliche National Recreation AreaCotopaxi National ParkLos Ilinizas Ecological ReserveLlanganates National ParkChimborazo Fauna Production ReserveCajas National ParkPodocarpus National Park

Amazon

Cuyabeno Fauna Production ReserveCayambe-Coca Ecological ReserveLimoncocha Biological ReserveYasuní National ParkSangay National Park

Other PANE areasEcosystem DiversityInformationAdvice for responsible tourism

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141618

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222428303234363840424446

48

5054586064

68767884

Mount Saraúrco, Cayambe-Coca

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iny Ecuador is home to a fan-tastic range of biological diver-sity, one of the largest in the

world. In a wing beat, you can climbfrom the exuberant Amazon jungle tothe high, snow-covered peaks of theAndes, cross the peaceful highlands,and descend to beaches covered withgolden sand. On the way, it is possi-ble to take a dip in the rivers or theturquoise waters of the Pacific to thesound of marimbas or the metallicchorus of oropendolas.

Ecuador’s friendly people live in thisextraordinary natural setting, a privilege thatbrings with it responsibilities. Assuming thesehas meant the creation, by the state, of natu-ral protected areas: national parks, ecologicalreserves, marine reserves, and other categoriescreated for this purpose.

Currently, Ecuador’s Natural AreasHeritage (PANE, Spanish acronym) consists of44 protected areas that cover every ecosys-tem in the country. Some are as large as aprovince and others as small as a city park.There are some that protect a specific placeand others that cover vast forested areas ofthe Amazon, climb up the Andes, and includemountains, rivers, and human populations.Together, the latter form networks and corri-dors whose purpose is not only to preservethe life existing there but to perpetuate

Welcome to Ecuador and its four worlds!

T

Tropical rain forest, Yasuní

Tourism in protected areas

The biological and cultural diversity of PANE, therelative closeness of the different areas, and easyaccess to a large part of their attractions makethese protected areas an incomparable destina-tion for national and international naturetourism. And, in spite of their accessibility, thetraveler will still find the magic that only little-explored places conserve.

Visitors can concentrate on just one of thevast areas available and live it in depth. If theyopt for Cuyabeno, for example, they will meetthree indigenous nationalities, huge tropicalforests, labyrinths of rivers and lakes, andenough species of flora and fauna for an entirelifetime of observation. Or, on the other hand,visitors can design an itinerary that includes afew days in a number of reserves, going to theuntouched beaches of Machalilla, climbing theAndean glaciers of Cotopaxi, Antisana, orChimborazo, and traveling down along the wind-ing rivers of one of the Amazon reserves.

By that same token, there are options for everytype of tourist, from reserves with comfortablefacilities for lodging and activities to thosedesigned for the very adventurous in search ofdestinations off the beaten track. A tourist mightalso combine the arduous ascent of an Andeangiant followed by a restful stay in one of the manyspas found at volcanic hot springs.

Ecuador and its protected areas hold fantas-tic moments and corners for everyone. Visitingthem contributes to their conservation whileproviding an unforgettable experience.

migratory, evolutionary, and even culturalprocesses. Taken together, PANE areas coverclose to 10% of the nation’s territory, one ofthe highest percentages in the world and evi-dence of the determination of Ecuadorians tofind ways to join the conservation of naturewith the presence of human beings.

In spite of administrative declarations, effectiveprotection of reserves is not always achieved. Theneed for resources and extractive pressures repre-sent threats to the collective conservation effort. Itis here that nature tourism comes in, that is, sus-tainable and responsible tourism, as an alternative.By visiting PANE areas, the traveler is not onlybecoming familiar with the most exciting sightsEcuador has to offer but is also making possibletheir conservation.

But what protects PANE?

PANE areas safeguard our greatest treasure: thebiological diversity and the processes andresources that said diversity produces. Withinprotected areas are 75% of the birds, 90% of theamphibians, and 60% of all the plants that existin the country.

But, in addition, protected areas are thehome and source of resources for a variety ofhuman groups and are indispensable for thereproduction of their cultures; Kichwa, Waorani,Shuar, Achuar, Shiwiar, Cofán, Siona, Secoya,Chachi, black, cholo, mestizo, and the uncontact-ed Tagaeri and Taromenane peoples play a veryimportant role in the use, management, andconservation of the various reserves and theirareas of influence.

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restaurantinformation lodging

refuge

camping

hot baths

diving

whale watching

lagoons

panoramic view

jungle excursionskayaking!shinglookout point beach

climbing

horseback riding

waterexcursions

tourist cycling

cave

fauna watching

rafting

museum

navigable river

bird watching

train station excursioncrafts community tourismforest

mangroves archaeologicalarea

"ora watching volcanowaterfall

country capital

provincial capital

major city

site

major river

Panamerican Highway

major access road

secondary access road

trail

railway

provincial border

0 - 27

28 - 327

328 - 626

627 - 926

927 - 1 226

1 227 - 1 525

1 526 - 1 825

1 826 - 2 125

2 126 - 2 424

2 425 - 2 724

2 725 - 3 024

3 025 - 3 324

3 325 - 3 623

3 624 - 3 923

3 924 - 4 223

4 224 - 4 522

4 523 - 6 259

masl

Quijos River, Cayambe-Coca

he purpose of this guide is to aid travelers or tour operators in planning a trip for themselvesor their customers. To that end, the guide offers a summary of the 21 protected areas mostattractive for tourism, indicating the major characteristics that make each one a unique and

fascinating destination. The areas are organized according to the four worlds found in Ecuador:Galapagos, Coast, Andes, and Amazon, and from north to south within these categories.

General information on each area is accompanied by pictograms of the major activities avail-able and a list of the most relevant tourist attractions. There is also a map with basic informa-tion about access and orientation to each reserve. A key to maps and pictograms is providedbelow. In addition, data include a brief list of the ecosystems in each area. Ecosystem classifica-tion – tropical rain forests; cloud forests; Andean forests; highlands; dry coastal forests; man-groves and estuaries; rivers, lagoons, and wetlands; marine ecosystems; and the Galapagos – is,of necessity, simplified (in fact, there are six types of highlands and a dozen different kinds of dryforest). The purpose is to offer an idea of what the tourist can expect in any particular PANE area.On page 76 there is an explanation of the major characteristics of each ecosystem.

A second section presents basic information on the other protected PANE areas, many ofthem recently created, for those who enjoy discovering enchanting corners far from the welltraveled tourist routes.

Finally, the guide offers basic information to help tourists while traveling: location and accessroutes, fees, visiting hours, and contacts. In addition, it offers advice on appropriate clothing for eachecosystem and tourist practices to make the visit more friendly for local communities and nature.

THow this guide is organized

Key to symbols

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27 31

24

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29

6

7

23

Quito

Esmeraldas

Portoviejo

Santa ElenaGuayaquil

Babahoyo Guaranda

Azogues

Riobamba

Ambato

Latacunga

Ibarra

Nueva Loja

Franciscode Orellana

Tulcán

Sto. Domingo

Cuenca

Zamora

Machala

Macas

Puyo

Loja

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35

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30

25

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9

1011 12

13

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43

41

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44

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GALÁPAGOS NATIONAL PARKGALÁPAGOS MARINE REVERVE

GALERA-SAN FRANCISCO MARINE RESERVEMACHALILLA NATIONAL PARKMANGLARES-CHURUTE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

EL ÁNGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVECOTACACHI-CAYAPAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVEPULULAHUA GEOBOTANICAL RESERVEPASOCHOA WILDLIFE RESERVEANTISANA ECOLOGICAL RESERVEEL BOLICHE NATIONAL RECREATION AREACOTOPAXI NATIONAL PARKLOS ILINIZAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVELLANGANATES NATIONAL PARKCHIMBORAZO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVECAJAS NATIONAL PARKPODOCARPUS NATIONAL PARK

CUYABENO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVECAYAMBE-COCA ECOLOGICAL RESERVELIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVEYASUNÍ NATIONAL PARKSANGAY NATIONAL PARK

12

345

67891011121314151617

1819202122

1

2

OTHER PANE AREAS

MACHE-CHINDUL ECOLOGICAL RESERVESANTA CLARA ISLAND WILDLIFE REFUGEMUISNE RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGEEL SALADO MANGROVES FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVESANTA ELENA PENINSULA MARINE FAUNA WILDLIFE REFUGEEL MORRO MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGEPACOCHE COASTAL MARINE WILDLIFE REFUGEESMERALDAS RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGEPARQUE LAGO NATIONAL RECREATION AREAARENILLAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVEISLA CORAZÓN AND FRAGATAS WILDLIFE REFUGECAYAPAS MATAJE ECOLOGICAL RESERVELA CHIQUITA WILDLIFE REFUGEISLA SANTAY AND ISLA DEL GALLO NATIONAL RECREATION AREALOS SAMANES NATIONAL RECREATION AREAPAMBILAR WILDLIFE RESERVE

EL ZARZA WILDLIFE REFUGEEL QUIMI BIOLOGICAL RESERVEEL CÓNDOR BINATIONAL PARKCOFÁN-BERMEJO ECOLOGICAL RESERVESUMACO-NAPO GALERAS NATIONAL PARKYACURI NATIONAL PARK

23242526272829303132333435363738

394041424344

Pto. BaquerizoMoreno

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Quito

100 km

Tena

PacificOcean

PROTECTED AREAS MAP

Diver with whale shark near Wolf Island

1&2LOCATION: 972 km west of the mainland.

AREA: 693,700 hectares (National Park). 14,110hectares (Marine Reserve).

ELEVATION: 0 – 1,707 masl.

CLIMATE: between 19 and 26ºC from May toDecember. Between 31 and 33ºC from January toMay.

ECOSYSTEMS: arid coastal zone, rain forests ofScalesia and Miconia, mangroves, rocky and coralreefs, beaches and cliffs.

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he world fame of the Galápagos as a destina-tion for nature lovers is well earned. Fantastic

landscapes and animals found nowhere else andunafraid of tourists who get close to watch themexplain why the Galapagos is among the most-visited national parks on the planet.

The rise of this magnificent archipelago almosta thousand kilometers from the coast of mainlandEcuador took place millions of years ago. Galapagos

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Share the beach with sea lions, iguanas, and turtles

was born as a result of activity inmarine volcanoes that pushed theislands up. Many of the volcanoes onthe younger islands –such as Isabela orFernandina– remain active.

Close encounters with theexceptional fauna on land or under-water constitute an emotional andincomparable experience. To walkamong the sea lions or the iguanas,the boobies with the colored feet orthe tropical penguins; to havesomeone take a picture of you nextto a giant tortoise or to swim sur-rounded by tame stingrays andsharks, are some of the activities onoffer in the Galapagos that are noteasily found anywhere else.

The Galapagos has much tooffer the world. In addition to itsinternationally famous cruises, thereare white sand and lava beaches,active volcanoes, mangroves, vari-ous coral reefs, groves of enormouscacti, and exuberant rain foreststhat are easily accessible from themajor ports. The National Park andthe Galapagos Marine Reserveinclude 33 islands and 64 islets.Some attractions can be enjoyed in

a single day, on foot or in small boats; othersrequire several days on boats with more draft oron cruise ships. It’s up to the visitor. In the Galapagos, a warm marine current

from the north and a cold current fromthe south meet, and this is the reason forthe diverse and very special marine life ofthe archipelago, which includes the onlytropical penguin on the planet.

Santa CruzBaltra

Puerto Villamil

Puerto AyoraPuerto

Baquerizo Moreno

San Cristóbal

EspañolaFloreana

Isabela

Fernandina

Darwin

Wolf

Santiago

Bartolomé

Rábida

PinzónSanta Fe

Islas Plaza

Pinta

Marchena Genovesa

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

Santa Cruz IslandOn Puerto Ayora, the major tourist centerof the Galapagos, is the Charles DarwinScientific Station, where giant tortoises areraised for their reintroduction into nature.Three kilometers from Puerto Ayora isTortuga Bay, a white sand beach wheremarine turtles nest, an ideal site for surfingand snorkeling. The Garrapatero Beach, theturquoise waters of Las Grietas, and – onthe highest part of the island – the Scalesiaforests which can be appreciated at LosGemelos, two enormous, nearly symmetri-cal holes. In addition, there is Los Túneleslookout, a curious tube of lava where owlsand other birds can be seen, and theBellavista volcanic tunnel. A few kilome-ters from Santa Cruz, during a day-longexcursion, tourists can visit small islands,such as Seymour, Plazas, and Bartolomé,where they can swim with the penguins.

San Cristóbal IslandAt Puerto Baquerizo Moreno there is anenvironmental interpretation center. Twokilometers from this center is Tijeretas Hill,with many birds, good lookouts, and trailsleading to Mann Beach, a good place forsnorkeling. For those who like to walk, thereis El Junco Lagoon, at the island’s highestpoint, inside the crater of an extinct volcano.In addition, tourists can hire a boat to go toLobos Island, thirty minutes from the port.

Isabela IslandAround Puerto Villamil there are a numberof tourist attractions that should not bemissed. These include the Playa de Amor(Love Beach), Las Tintoreras, an ideal placeto swim with small sharks, the Muro de lasLágrimas (Wall of Tears), and the TortoiseBreeding Center. A visit on horseback andon foot to the enormous Sierra Negra vol-canic crater is an unforgettable experience.

White sand beach on Santa Cruz Island

Swimming with the penguins off Bartolomé Island.

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50 km

GALÁPAGOS NATIONAL PARK andGALÁPAGOS MARINE RESERVE

Surfing on the coast of Manabí

To E

smer

ald

as

Bilsa River

San Franci

sco

Rive

r

TonchigüeGalera

Estero de Plátano

Quingue

Caimito

Tongorachí

San Franciscocabo San Francisco

punta Galera

punta Farallón

punta Quingue

Bunche

Muisne

MARINE RESERVE

To Pedernales

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS3

GALERA-SAN FRANCISCO MARINE RESERVE

rom Punta Galera to Cabo San Francisco,across from the hidden coasts of

Esmeraldas, stretches Ecuador’s newest conti-nental marine reserve. It extends into the PacificOcean to a depth of 800 meters, protecting theresources found there.

Fishing villages, where residents make aliving through small-scale fishing, agriculture,and tourism, dot the small, picturesque beach-es, known as coves, where kids play soccer withimprovised balls while they wait for their dadsto return from the sea. On the various beachesin the reserve, there are areas designated forecological tourism, where the tourist canchoose to camp on white sand or spend thenight in airy cabins.

From the hamlet of Tonchigüe, a few kilome-ters to the south of Atacames, a secondary roadruns along the peninsula, one of the few placeson the Ecuadorean coast where the rain forest

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BeachesSpectacular beaches where thenatural landscape of denseforests, rocky terraces, and theturquoise sea predominate:Cumilinche, Galera, Galerita,Estero de Plátano, Quingue,Caimito, Tongorachí. Here, themajor economic activity issmall-scale fishing.

Rock and coral reefsFor snorkeling fans, just a fewkilometers out to sea there arecoral forests with a splendid diver-sity of fish and invertebrates.

ForestsNear the beaches, especiallytoward Estero de Plátano,Quinque, and Caimito, there aresignificant forest remnants.Toward the interior, on the otherside of the San Francisco road,there are even more extensive,wetter, better conserved forests.

A world unknown below the surface

LOCATION: Esmeraldas.

AREA: 54,604 hectares.

ELEVATION: 0 – 300 masl.

CLIMATE: warm and humid, between 18 and 36ºC.

ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest, sandy androcky beaches, rock and coral reefs, rocky mari-ne bed.

still reaches thebeach. The visitor willfind toucans, squir-rels, parrots, guans,and sloths whileenjoying the sea.

But this reserve’sreason for being isfound under water: atremendous diversityof coastal marinehabitats. Extensivegroves of colorfulgorgonian and othertypes of corals pro-vide a home formany fish species,including more thanare found in the seasof the Galapagos.

Galera-San Francisco is, besides, a feeding areafor five marine turtle species and at leasttwenty whale and dolphin species. Theseresources, in addition to being important inthe cycles that keep fisheries healthy, are agreat attraction for snorkeling fans.

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Estero de Plátano

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5 km

MangrovesThe reserve borders on the southwith the Muisne River MangroveEstuary Wildlife Reserve, one ofthe most important in the country.Tours can be organized by boatfrom San Francisco and Muisne.

Estero de Plátano beach

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Jipijapa River

Buenavista River

the route of

Jipijapa

Machalilla

Puerto LópezSan Sebastián Hill

Los Frailes

isla Salango

Isla de la Plata

Salango

Ayampe

Puerto Rico

Agua Blanca

Buenavista

Ayampe River

Cho

ngón

Col

onch

eRa

nge

To Santa Elena

To PortoviejoTo Manta

To Guayaquil

Puerto Cayo

Santa Elena

Province

Manabí Provincethe spondylus

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

LOCATION: Manabí.AREA: land: 56,184 hectares; sea: 24,165hectares.ELEVATION: 0 – 840 masl.CLIMATE: warm and dry, 23ºC, on average.ECOSYSTEMS: dry forest, cloud forest, sandyand rocky beaches, rock and coral reefs, cliffs,sea beds.

The humpbacked whales are here!

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MACHALILLA NATIONAL PARK

urrounded by enchanting beaches and conserv-ing an exceptional archaeological heritage,

Machalilla is the only national park that simultane-ously protects a mainland area, a marine area, and anumber of coastal islands and islets.

Every July the magnificent humpbacked whalecomes to this picturesque park, attracted by thewarm water. A whale watching tour aboard a smallboat offers unforgettable moments to observe theseformidable cetaceans, weighing more than 40 tons,coming to the surface to leap high into the air. Theshow goes on until September; for the rest of theyear, however, there are other surprises: monkeys,ocelots, sloths, deer, and coaties, residents of thesedry tropical forests, as well as 270 bird species. Theseinclude three varieties of boobies that can be pho-tographed from a distance of a few meters on theIsla de la Plata. Here, with a little bit of luck, the vis-itor can watch sea lions resting on the sand.

The name of the island, according to legend, isdue to the fact that the famous pirate Francis Drakeburied a considerable treasure there.

The park’s most famous beach is Los Frailes, apeaceful white sand cove surrounded by highcliffs and a magnificent dry tropical forest. In thisheavenly haven, the visitor can take a warm swim,go snorkeling, enjoy the landscape, or visit tinynearby beaches.

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PPuueerrttoo LLóóppeezzThe starting point for whale watching excursionsand for visiting the Isla de la Plata. It offers avariety of lodging near its beaches.

LLooss FFrraaiilleessRated by many as one of the country’s loveliestbeaches. There is parking, a self-guiding trailwith signs containing information, and lookouts.

IIssllaa ddee llaa PPllaattaaSurrounded by rock reefs and populated bymany bird species. Trails run through land-scapes similar to those of the Galapagos.

AAgguuaa BBllaannccaa sseettttlleemmeennttA place to discover vestiges of pre-Colombiancultures. Offers community tourism, self-guid-ing trails, and an archaeological museum.

SSaann SSeebbaassttiiáánnA cloud forest in the middle of the park,home to birds and mammals such as theanteater and the howler monkey. Horsebacktours are available.

SSaallaannggoo aanndd EEll AAhhoorrccaaddoo IIssllaannddssSeven km from Puerto López there are veryattractive areas for snorkeling among the var-ied fish living among rock and coral reefs.

Beyond the scenic and fauna wealth, Machalillais nothing less than a museum containing Ecuador’spre-Colombian history. The settlement of AguaBlanca, for example, is known to have been theancient capital of the Manteña culture, and containsarchaeological remains dating from 500 CE, as wellas vestiges of earlier cultures, such as Chorrera,Machalilla, and Valdivia (2600-1650 CE).

Humpbacked whale near the Isla de la Plata

Los Frailes beach

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5 km

The Spondylus, a shellfish whose shell was used as ameans of exchange in ancient times and whose flesh isthe main ingredient in a delicious dish prepared in thearea, is in serious danger of extinction. The tourist routeof Ecuador’s beaches is named after the Spondylus.

he names of the hills that make up thesmall Churute range are almost as pictur-

esque as the wealth of flora and fauna within.Rising to more than 600 meters above sea level,Pancho Diablo, El Mate, Perequeté, Masvale, andPecho de Niña are covered with fog that lifts offfrom a wide plain only 45 kilometers from

Est. d

e ch

urute

Can

al d

e M

ondr

agón

Churute

El Mango

Puerto Inca

Puerto Salvador

Puerto de la Cruz

Boca de Churute

To Guayaquil

Masvale Hill

El Mate Hill

Pancho Diablo HillEl Canclón Lagoon

To Machala

To La Troncal

Mon

drag

ón Is

land

Gua

yas

Rive

r

Matorrillos Island

Isla

de

los

Ingl

eses

Sto. Domingo

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

LOCATION: Guayas.AREA: 55,212 hectares.ELEVATION: 0 – 700 masl.CLIMATE: warm and humid,28ºC, on average.ECOSYSTEMS: mangroves,dry forest, cloud forest, lagoonsand estuaries.

Monkeys, horned screamers, and waterfalls a stone’s throw from the city

5

MANGLARES-CHURUTE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

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Mangrove tour A half hour in vehicle from the administra-tion center, located at kilometer 48 on theGuayaquil-Puerto Inca road, you take a boatat the dock to begin an interesting tour withcommunity guides through mangroveforests.

El Canclón LagoonFollowing a trail to the foot of El Mate hill,walking through wetlands, you come to agreat place for watching birds, including thespecies for which the lagoon is named.

TrailsEl Mate trail, almost five kilometers long,goes through dry and humid tropicalforest, while El Mirador, a shorter walkwith an easy climb, provides a privilegedview of most of the reserve.

Cerro Pancho DiabloCovered with tropical rain forest, this hill ishome to monkeys, squirrels, agoutis, and alot of birds. In two hours, you come to apretty waterfall of medium height.

Cerro MasvaleThe major attractions are the possibility ofseeing and hearing howler monkeys and a 30meter high waterfall on the northern slope.

Guayaquil. Hidden in the hillsidesare enchanting waterfalls while thepeaks are home to colorful orchidsand bromeliads.

A number of trails run throughthe reserve’s cloud forests, where thehowler monkey can still be heardand, with a little bit of luck, seen inthe treetops. This surprising species,whose howl is audible at a distanceof several kilometers, is in dangerbecause of hunting and the defor-estation of its habitat. Another char-acteristic resident of the site is thehorned screamer, a strange birdwhose long horn and bone-chillingcall are associated with the lagoonthat takes its name, located to theeast of the reserve. Showy riverwater lentils and hyacinths float inthe surrounding swamps, forming agreen carpet.

The mix of salt water from theGulf of Guayaquil with fresh waterfrom the basin of the Guayas Rivercreates perfect conditions for thegrowth of the mangroves; fivespecies form forests more than 15meters tall, between which the vis-itor can move aboard a boataccompanied by expert crab har-vesters from local communities.Virtually all the crab eaten in the

country comes from these mangroves.If you are short on time, Manglares-Churute

is an excellent choice in light of the wide varietyof coastal habitats that can be visited in a singleday. In addition, you need not worry about lodg-ing as the selection available in Guayaquil andnearby towns is ample.

18 19

Mangroves in the reserve

Silhouette of the roseate spoonbill

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10 km

Cotapaxi, seen from the Ilinizas

6 Walking among lagoons and giant frailejones

EL ÁNGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

dd spiky plants with thick trunks and large,fuzzy leaves adorn the mountainous topog-

raphy of the entire reserve. They are the giantfrailejones that, like soldiers in an interminablearmy, rise up firm against the cold highland tem-peratures. Some members of this fascinatingspecies grow as high as seven meters, authenticgiants that rise from the mist, form-ing picturesque groves that make upthe main attraction of this area. TheChiles, a volcano with an irregularpeak that is reflected in the turquoisewaters of the lagoons, breaks theuniformity of the view. This ecologi-cal reserve is unique in the country inthat it is home to the black-thighedpuffleg hummingbird, one of 320bird species that contribute to the

OOLOCATION: Carchi.AREA: 15,715 hectares.ELEVATION: 3,664 – 4,768masl.CLIMATE: cold, on averagebetween 7 and 11ºC.ECOSYSTEMS: Andean forest,highlands with frailejones.

Chiqui

to R

iver

Plata River

Bils

a Ri

ver

Mount Chiles

Tu!ño

Puente Ayora

COLOMBIA

El Placer

Palo Blanco

La Libertad

Aguas Hediondas

El Ángel

Polylepis Forest

Negro hill

To Tulcán

To Maldonado

To Tulcán

Calera

To Quito

Verdes Lagoons

VoladeroLagoons

4 720 m

rich fauna of the area. The preñadilla (a fish), deer,highland foxes, spectacled bears, and marsupialfrogs are among the animals that have adapted tothis singular ecosystem.

Although the cold is penetrating in thehighlands of El Ángel, there is a remedy: themany thermal springs flowing from volcanic

depths. The Aguas Hediondas ofthe Tufiño baths, for example, arebelieved to have healing proper-ties due to their high sulfur con-tent, the mineral from which thebaths take their name.

The reserve offers magnificentsites for camping, but those whoprefer to sleep indoors will findlodging in El Voladero, El Salado,and nearby towns.

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Giant frailejones in the highlands of El ÁngelMount Chiles

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

Lagoons of El VoladeroThe lagoons are surrounded by largenumbers of frailejones. Parking, aninformation service, lookouts, and restareas are available.

El SaladoThe camping area offers informationand guard service.

Lagunas VerdesThe name comes from the odd turquoisecolor of the water due to chlorophyllousalgae.

Hot baths of Tufiño, Puente Ayora,and CaleraThe water containing the volcano’s min-erals and heat is ideal for relaxing aftera day in the highlands.

PPoollyylleeppiiss forestA fairytale forest with trees with twist-ed red trunks.

Mount ChilesThis peak, 4,720 meters above sea level,is of medium difficulty for those whoenjoy mountain climbing and trekking.

Black-thighed puffleg hummingbird

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5 km

LOCATION: Esmeraldas and Imbabura.

AREA: 243,638 hectares.

ELEVATION: 30 – 4,939 masl.

CLIMATE: temperatures between 4 and 24ºC.

ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest, cloudforest, Andean forest, herbaceous highlands,lagoons.

7

COTACACHI-CAYAPAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

he Cotacachi-Cayapas stretches from theAndean slopes to the interior plains of

Esmeraldas. The torrential rivers that cross thereserve become calmer as they open their waythrough the dense, virtually unexplored tropicalforest. In the cheerful, marimba-playing town ofBorbón, visitors can board a small canoe andbegin the adventure of riding the current. Witha lot of luck, they will see the agile spider mon-key swinging its large body through the branch-es of trees. Three hours upriver on the Santiago,they will come to the black community of Playa

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TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

Cuicocha Lagoon At 14 kilometers from Cotacachi, this is thelargest highland lagoon in Ecuador. In the highpart there is a natural lookout.

Lagoons of PiñánA lacustrine complex located northwest ofUrcuquí, visitors can fish for large rainbow trout,bird watch, and camp.

Mount CotacachiThe base of this active volcano, reaching 4,939 masl,is reached via the road that goes to Cuicocha.

Mount YanahurcoThis inactive volcano reaches 4,538 masl. The Andeancondor nests in this area.

Yanayacu Hot BathsThe temperature of these thermal waters is about17ºC; the baths are located a kilometer northwestof Cotacachi.

Salto del Bravo and the San Miguel waterfallFrom Borbón, a four hour trip in a boat along theCayapas River takes the visitor to a lovely beach inSan Miguel located near a huge waterfall 100meters high.

Playa de OroThis enchanting black community on the edge ofthe reserve offers ecological lodging and excur-sions with local guides.

Torrential rivers that carrythe sound of the marimba

The Union of Farmer Organizations ofCotacachi offers an excellent option: com-munity tourism with lodging, a wide varietyof tours, and trekking in the reserve.

de Oro, where pretty cabins offer lodging, anexcellent choice on the edge of the reserve.

The upper area, on the other hand, is hometo the mysterious cloud forests of the Toisánrange, where the broken terrain and abundantrivers give way to countless roaring waterfalls.

Higher still, climbing toward the Andes, arethe characteristic plumes of highland grass andthe icy lagoons that announce the peaks ofImbabura. Cotacachi, a tempestuous pyramid ofalmost vertical walls, rises over the land. At thefoot lies the tourist town by that same name, an

important crafts center. To the south, Cuicocha,a volcano, holds in its crater a fabulous lagoonfrom which two islets emerge from the volcanicrock, and on which visitors can enjoy a boat ride.

The reserve rises five thousand meters,beginning almost at sea level in the forests ofEsmeraldas and finally touching the steepAndean peaks. This makes the Cotacachi-Cayapas one of the reserves with the greatestnumber of ecosystems in the country, and thereserve that, apart from the Galapagos, receivesthe greatest number of visitors.

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Cuicocha’s islets

Cayapas River

Cay

apas

River

San Miguel River

Sant

iag

o Ri

ver

Barb

udo

Rive

r

Lachas River

Negro River

Agua Clara River

Toisán Range

Mag

dal

ena

River

Inta

g Ri

ver

Mira River

Lita River

San Pablo lagoon

Donoso Lagoon

Piñán

La Merced de Buenos Aires

Tarmuayacu

CarolinaGuallupe

Urcuquí

Atuntaqui

Yaguarcocha

Cuicocha

Imantag

YanayacuHot Baths

Otavalo

BrillasolCotacachi

Ibarra

El Rosario

Cuellaje

Apuela

Selva Alegre

Íntag

García Moreno

Guananín

Plaza GutiérrezPeñaherrera

Las PeñasPlaya de Oro

Vacas Galindo

Mount Yanahurco

Mount Cotacachi4 939 m

Mount Imbabura4 630 m

San Miguel

Telembí

San José de Cayapas

Corriente Larga

Imbabura Province

Carchi Province

Esmeraldas Province

Lita

To San Lorenzo

To Quito

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Fun and adventure in the crater of a volcano

PULULAHUA GEOBOTANICAL RESERVE

few kilometers north of Quito, the Earth isdivided in two: an odd monument, known as

the Middle of the World, commemorates the geodes-ic expedition of La Condamine and indicates theequinoctial line (though, in fact, it runs a few kilome-ters to the north). This famous monument is the per-fect antechamber to Ecuador’s unique geobotanicalreserve, a mere ten minutes away, all of which can beappreciated from the Ventanillas Lookout.

While at first glance Pululahua seems to be avalley surrounded by steep green hills, it is, in fact,the fertile crater of an active volcano. For the lasttwo thousand years, is has been home to a series offarm communities. Its name, according to residents,means “cloud of water,” due to the heavy fog thathangs over the reserve every afternoon, giving thelandscape an enigmatic tone.

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LOCATION: Pichincha.AREA: 3,383 hectares.ELEVATION: 1,600 – 3,356masl.CLIMATE: temperate, between14 and 20ºC, on average.ECOSYSTEMS: cloud for-est, Andean forest.

Guayllabamba River

Guayllab

amb

a River

Blan

co R

iver

To Los Bancos

San José de Nieblí

In#ernillo

Guarumal

Calacalí

La MarcaHill

San Antonio Mitad del Mundo

To Quito

Rumicucho

Pululahua

Pondoña Hill

Lulumbamba

Chaupisacha

Chivo HillEl Pailón Hill

Moraspungo Ventanillas lookout

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

Descending from the Ventanillas Lookoutalong a steep 450-meter trail, the visitor comes tothe interior of the immense crater where there isno lack of options: mineral water springs, vestigesof ancient human settlements on the edges andclimbing the sides of great volcanic domes such asthe Pondoña. Multi-hued hummingbirds and but-terflies compete for the nectar of flowers alongthe numerous trails and hillsides of Pululahua.Depending on visitors’ preferences, they can trav-el on foot, on horseback, or by bicycle along thecommunity’s streets.

The presence of this garden so near the city isa privilege. Those tempted to enjoy the spot formore than a day can choose from among a numberof hostels, hacienda houses, and camping facilitiesin areas designated for that purpose.

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Ventanillas LookoutThis can be reached from the Quito-Calacalíhighway. Visitors can view the crater of the vol-cano and its admirable landscape. The views arebetter in the morning, before the fog descends.

Cerro Pondoña and El PailónPondoña is the highest point within the crater.In the area there are huge numbers of butter-flies and on the northwestern flank is El Pailónfrom which emerge smaller springs of thermalwaters.

LulumbambaThis is a more distant part of the reserve inthe northwest and more difficult to get to.At the highest point there are vestiges ofancient human settlements, includingbowls, pots, and skeletons.

MoraspungoA recreation area to the south of the VentanillasLookout, it offers complete infrastructure: picnicumbrellas, grills, cabins, bathrooms, and water.

ChaupisachaLocated in the lowest part of the reserve, thearea has patches of native forest ideal forbird watching.

Descending to the Infernillo (little hell)

Pululahua crater

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Trails of diversity in a sleeping volcano

PASOCHOA WILDLIFE RESERVE

he song of southern yellow grosbeaks accom-panies visitors who go into the high Andean

forest found in this refuge, where bird lovers willfind more than one hundred species, among whichthe beauty and variety of the evanescent humming-birds stand out. Those who take a trail called LosPantzas will get to the top of Pasochoa in a mereeight hours and, by way of reward, will have a viewof the horizon adorned by a dozen volcanoes:Pichincha, Atacazo, Antisana, Ilinizas, Corazón,Cotopaxi, Rumiñahui, Sincholagua, Puntas,Cayambe, Chimborazo…

Difficult access to the area in past decadesand the steepness of the terrain prevented agri-culture and livestock grazing, turning Pasochoainto an authentic refuge where we can still findanimals and plants that previously inhabited theentire inter-Andean region. Rodents, rabbits,highland foxes, mountain deer, frogs, and batsare some of the representative fauna of therefuge, difficult to see due to nocturnal habits ortimidity, though more adventurous visitors cantake walks at night to try to see them.

Over the thick layer of volcanic ash that coversthe flanks of Pasochoa, medicinal plants, exoticorchids, and the native wax palm grow; the palm is

TT LOCATION: Pichincha.AREA: 500 hectares.ELEVATION: 2,800 – 4,210 masl.CLIMATE: cold, 10 to 15ºC on the slopes, 3to 9ºC in the highlands.ECOSYSTEMS: Andean forest, herbaceoushighland.

San

Pedr

o Ri

ver

To Amaguaña

To Machachi

To Quito

Mount Pasochoa4 230 m

Tambillo

camping areainformation center

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

TrailsThere are six options of varying diffi-culty and length, with signs of differ-ent colors indicating views, birds, andnative plants:- Del Colibrí, an easy walk (thirty min-utes).- Amiga Naturaleza, an easy walk(thirty minutes).- Bosque para Todos, medium effort(an hour).- Mayguayacu, good amount of effort(two hours).- Palma de Cera, a lot of effort (fourhours).- Los Pantzas, a whole lot of effort(eight hours).

Nighttime outingsThe refuge offers the chance to go for awalk at night to observe nocturnal fauna.

Bird watchingPasochoa’s major attraction, with 126bird species, including 14 hummingbirds.

Pasochoa Environmental EducationCenterDedicated to education programs oncare of the environment, ecology, andvolcanology. Offers information andguides. Open every day.

Hikers can take a long but gratifying trekfrom Pasochoa southeast to MountRumiñahui and Cotopaxi National Park.

a species endemic to the Ecuadorian Andes and indanger of disappearing because of its use in the tra-ditional Holy Week ceremony. This is the palm thatgrows at higher elevations in the world.

Located 45 kilometers southeast of Quito, therefuge offers spots for camping, two shelters thatcan take up to ten people each, and a kitchen, din-ing room, and bathrooms. Because it is close to thecity, it is a preferred site for urban families eager tospend a weekend with nature.

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Flanks of Mount Pasochoa

Pasochoa, between the peaks of Cotopaxi and Rumiñahui.

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Papallacta River

Quijos River

Cosanga River

Ta

mbo River

Verdeyacu River

Antisana River

El ChacoPíntag

Micacocha

Verdecocha

Mount Sincholagua

4 893 m

Mount Quilindaña

4 877 m

Mount Antisana

5 755 m

Pan de Azúcar3 500 m

Muertepungo Lagoon

Luciacocha

PapallactaLagoon

Sucus Lagoon

Encantada Lagoon

Baeza

Papallacta

Antisanilla

Cosanga

Las Caucheras

JondachiGuac

amay

osRa

nge

To Tena

To Lago Agrio

To Quito

To Quito

Napo Province

Pichincha Province

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

10LOCATION: Pichincha and Napo.AREA: 120,000 hectares.ELEVATION: 1,200 – 5,758 masl.CLIMATE: varies between 3 and17ºC, based on altitude.ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andeanforest, herbaceous highlands, lagoons,and wetlands.

ANTISANA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

o enter Antisana is to come into the worldof the magnificent Andean condor. On the

way, very close to the northern access to thereserve, we come upon strange rocky walls thatoffer the first great opportunity to appreciatethis colossal bird.

Towering above is Antisana, an active volcanoof great height and with an attractive silhouette,rarely seen in its entirety. Dense clouds ascendingfrom the Amazon hide the volcano most of thetime and release their humidity on the extensivesurrounding highlands.

A few kilometers away, on Antisanilla,between Pintag and Antisana, past activity ofthe volcano is evident where a lava flowemerges suddenly from the earth, formingwhat appear to be waves of rocks.

Above, the cushions of vegetation thatcover these extensive highlands make it possi-ble to keep one’s feet dry while climbing from

TT MMiiccaaccoocchhaa aanndd MMoouunntt AAnnttiissaannaa ((55,,775555 mmaassll))For climbers, the fourth highest volcano in thecountry has three peaks considered very diffi-cult. Micacocha, on the southern flank, isfamous for its views, large trout, and aquaticand migratory birds.

TTaammbboo VVaalllleeyyLocated in the far northwest of the area, the valleyoffers outstanding views of the highlands, rocky for-mations, and hot baths. Here the trail for climbingAntisana begins, as does another that leads to CotopaxiNational Park, ideal for hikes lasting several days.

SSaannttaa LLuuccííaa oorr MMaauuccaa MMaacchhaayy LLaaggoooonnA preferred spot for camping on the northwesternflanks of Antisana, with a view of the lagoon whichappears to be tilted, an unusual visual effect.

RRaavviinneess ooff EEll IIssccooTogether with the rocky walls next to the accessway, one of the major resting places for theAndean condor.

GGuuaaccaammaayyooss RRaannggeeRising in the extreme southeast of the reserve, this isthe most important biodiversity center of the area, aswitnessed by more than 400 bird species and almosthalf of the country’s plant species.

Wetlands in this reserve providepotable water to Quito, and help gen-erate electricity for more than 100thousand people.

the valley of the Tambo along the wet hillsidesthat surround Antisana, or to approach thenumerous lagoons with their icy waters andabundant aquatic vegetation. More ambitioushikers can begin here a walk of several days toCotopaxi National Park and, perhaps, appreciatethe sight of a condor in flight.

To the east, the Quijos and Cosanga riversopen on their way to the Amazon plain,through the abrupt topography of Andeanflanks and steep drops along the Guacamayosrange. A few kilometers after crossing the bor-ders of the reserve, these rivers are perfect forproducing the extreme emotions that comefrom rafting and kayaking.

The last refuge of themajestic Andean condor

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Highlands of Antisana

Micacocha Eastern slope of Mount Antisana

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11 A lovely combination of native and introduced flora

EL BOLICHE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA

hough small in terms of area, gorgeous ElBoliche captivates visitors with the splendid

pine forests that cover almost half of the site.Named for a picturesque natural formation sur-rounded by trees and bushes, El Boliche is thesmallest protected area in the country, coveringa mere 392 hectares. Nevertheless, because it isalmost adjacent to Cotopaxi National Park thereis plenty to see.

The California pines were introduced in 1928 asa scientific experiment to determine the adaptabil-ity of conifers to high altitudes. Although they areforeign to our natural landscape, with the localflora, consisting mainly of mosses, lichens, ferns,and bushes, they create an interesting combination.

El Boliche is the starting point of an annualmountain bike race that is now a classic: TheCotopaxi Tour. But visitors do not have to partici-

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LOCATION: border betweenCotopaxi and Pichincha.AREA: 392 hectares.ELEVATION: 3,000 - 3,704 masl.CLIMATE: cold, 8 °C, on average.ECOSYSTEMS: pine forest, herba-ceous highlands.

Sunfana Hill

Quishuartrail

Sunfanatrail

picnic areatrain

station

Cutuchi River

Lumpana Ravine

Puchalitola Ravine

To Quito

To Latacunga

ToCotopaxi

National Park

Cotopaxi National Park

PanamericanHighway

km 60

Pichincha Province

Cotopaxi Province

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

Train rideAn enjoyable ride through the inter-Andeanpass, leaving the Chimbacalle Station in thesouth of Quito and arriving in El Boliche Station.

El Boliche SectorIn the singular small plaza, surrounded by treesand bushes, there are shelters (cabañas) for pic-nics and a restaurant open on weekends.

Sunfana LookoutLocated on a hill called Sunfana, the highestpoint in the area, visitors can see the areaaround Cotopaxi, as well as pine and cypressforests. There is a camping site.

Quishuar TrailThe path offers a 45 minute walk through anenchanting pine forest.

HikesFollowing the Sunfana Trail for two hours,visitors come to Mount Rumiñahui. Takingthe trail toward Churupinto and Daule,they can go through Caspi to CotopaxiNational Park.

With guides familiar with the area,hikers can get to Cotopaxi NationalPark and, from there, to the AntisanaEcological Reserve.

pate in the race to enjoy pedaling along the bicycletrails at any time of the year.

Visitors can get to El Boliche by car via thePanamerican, but it is more fun and interesting togo to this refuge by train. The old train leaves theChimbacalle Station, in the south of Quito, at8h00, traveling through inter-Andean valleys andarriving at midday at El Boliche Station. Thereturn is at 15h00, giving visitors enough time towalk along trails through the thick forest or enjoya picnic to the song of trushes, hummingbirds,and colorful tanagers.

For those who prefer to spend the night, ElBoliche has camping areas and cabins for rentto tourists. But do take enough food, liquids,and warm clothing for the night which, markedby the sound of horned and other owl species,can be very cold.

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Bicycle path through pine forests

El Boliche’s train station

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12 A dazzling encounter with the highest active volcano in the world

COTOPAXI NATIONAL PARK

mere 60 kilometers south of Quito, the mightyCotopaxi rises up among the clouds. This is

the highest active volcano in the world. At 5,897meters, the almost perfectly symmetrical cone canbe seen from the capital on a clear day. This iconicsnow-covered peak has become one of the majortourist attractions in the country, and CotopaxiNational Park is one of the most-visited reserves.

As if one extraordinary volcano were notenough, to the northwest of the park rises theextinct Rumiñahui (4,722 masl). Its unmistakablenotched profile is reflected in the dark waters ofLimpiopungo, a lagoon, possibly produced by aglacier, that used to have a surface area of 200hectares. Though its waters have retreated con-siderably over the years, the lagoon is home to a

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LOCATION: Cotopaxi,Pichincha, and Napo.AREA: 32,255 hectares.ELEVATION: 3,400 – 5,897 masl.CLIMATE: cold, between 9 and11ºC, on average.ECOSYSTEMS: herbaceoushighlands, dry highlands,lagoons, and wetlands.

Mount Cotopaxi5 897 m

Machachi

Chaupi

Mount Morurco4 880 m

El Boliche Limpiopungo

Lagoon

Mount Rumiñahui4 722 m

Mount Sincholagua4 893 m

refuge

Inca`sFortress

Cutu

chi River

Tam

bo River

Pita River

To L

atac

ung

aTo

Qui

to

San Juan de

Pastocalle

Santa Rita

Cotopaxi Province

Pichincha Province

Napo Province

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSSClimbing CotopaxiThis can be done throughout the year, andthe peak is ideal for non-professionalclimbers; direction from a certified guide isrequired, and climbers need to acclimatizethemselves and be in good physical shape.

LimpiopungoA lagoon of peaceful, dark, shallowwaters that attract a variety of aquaticand migratory birds.

Cajas LakesA complex of 15 small, permanent lagoonslocated in the southeast of the park.

Mount RumiñahuiThe name means “stone face.” The peak canbe climbed from Limpiopungo Lagoon; theascent includes rock climbing.

Pucará del SalitreThe remains of an Inca fortress whosewalls can be seen from the walk to PitaRiver, beginning on the plain ofLimpiopungo and heading east.

Some 900 people climb Cotopaxievery year. The mountain refuge caneasily house 100 persons and hasemergency services.

good number of the 80 bird species in the park,many of them migratory.

Residuals of eruptions surround both volca-noes: solidified lava, ash, and lahars that haveflowed hundreds of kilometers, and an extensiveplain almost devoid of vegetation, but filled withvolcanic rocks of various sizes and shapes.

A number of mammal species have adapted tothis harsh landscape: skunks, weasels, shrews, bats,highland foxes, rabbits, and deer are some of these.

Visitors who are not interested in trying toreach Cotopaxi’s peak can still enjoy the splendidlandscape on foot, horseback, or bicycle. Manylocal tour operators and nearby lodging sitesoffer guides, horses, bicycles, and all the equip-ment the tourist will need.

José Rivas Refuge on Mount Cotopaxi

Glacier on Cotopaxi

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o be able to leave the city at dawn,climb a peak of more than five thou-

sand meters, and return to the urban areaat sunset is a privilege on offer in very fewplaces around the world. One of these isQuito and North Iliniza, the smaller andmore accessible peak in this reserve. Onthe other hand, its twin, South Iliniza, isdemanding and severe: the ascentrequires technique, practice, patience, andspecial equipment; a challenge even forthe most experienced climbers. Anenchanted forest full of trees with twist-ed, reddish trunks, known as pantzas, orpaper trees, welcomes explorers beforethey arrive at the refuge, from which theway to either of the two peaks begins.

On the south side of the reserve, aunique natural feature attracts visitors:the Quilotoa Lagoon. Like a resplendentemerald-green mirror, it is incrusted at thebottom of the crater of an active volcano.The 440-meter descent to the shore is achild’s game compared to the steep, ardu-ous return. Fortunately, for the less resist-ant, mules can change the hard ascentinto an enjoyable outing.

A few kilometers to the south of thereserve is a land rich in crafts. In Tigua, theartists who paint colorful pictures onsheep skin, interpreting daily events andmythical creatures, have become famousin recent years. Tourists can also visit themarkets in Pujilí and Saquisilí, renownedfor their weavings and ceramics.

While the reserve is known for the twinpeaks of the Ilinizas, it also protects thou-sands of hectares of western subtropicalforests in the Andes which, though little-explored, are exceptionally diverse.

Twin snow-covered peaks, a turquoise lagoon, and steep cloud forests

ILINIZAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

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LOCATION: Pichincha, Cotopaxi, and Sto. Domingo.EXTENSION: 149,900 hectares.ELEVATION: 800 – 5,265 masl.CLIMATE: cold, between 9 and 11ºC, on average.ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest,herbaceous highlands, dry highlands.

Patate River

Pilatón River

To Q

uito

To Sto. Domingo

Angamarca River

Toachi River

Toachi River

Qui

ndig

ua River

San Pablo River

Moraspungo

El CorazónPangua Angamarca

La ManáZumbahua

Pilaló

Quilotoa

Chugchilán

Isinliví

Pucayacu

Tandapi

Aloag

Machachi

El Chaupi

Lasso

Saquisilí

Pujilí

Latacunga

Mount Quilotoa4 010 m

North Iliniza 5 016 m

South Iliniza5 266 m

Mount El Corazón4 786 m

Las PampasSarapullo

Sigchos

Sto. Domingode los Tsáchilas

Province

CotopaxiProvince

PichinchaProvince

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

13

Los IlinizasFrom the village of El Chaupi visitors arrive to therefuge. From there they can go to either peak:North (5,016 masl) or South (5,266 masl). Theview from both peaks is spectacular.

Quilotoa LagoonA body of water more than three square kilometers insize in the crater of Mount Quilotoa. Access is alongthe road to Zumbahua. There are a number of placesoffering food, lodging, and guided sight-seeing.

El Corazon (4,786 masl)A volcano easy to climb located at the far northeastof the reserve, near Quito.

Toachi CanyonA huge ravine 40 meters deep through which theToachi River runs, very near the headwaters.

Chugchilán-SigchosTwo small, attractive villages where other pathsinto the reserve begin. It is recommended thatvisitors hire local guides to explore this Andeanand subtropical area.

ZarapulloLocated in the northwest of the reserve, this is anatural lookout with a view of subtropicalforests to the west and the peaks of the Andeanrange to the east.

PanguaAt the far southwest of the reserve are the relictsof subtropical rain forest. From the villages ofPucayacu and Pangua, visitors begin hikes alongtrails that go through the forest. The company oflocal guides is necessary.

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Crevice in South Iliniza

Volcano and Quilotoa Lagoon

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LLANGANATES NATIONAL PARK

undreds of expeditions have been organizedsince colonial times in search of the coveted

Inca treasure that, according to legend,Rumiñahui hid in some corner of the Llanganates.Although explorers return empty-handed, theydiscover another treasure: the natural wonders ofthe area. The adventure of entering this nationalpark is unequalled in any other; its broken terrainrequires effort and expert local guides withoutwhom visitors will get lost easily. The mythicalLlanganates are the perfect destination for loversof high-level adventure.

With altitudes spanning more than 3,000meters, the park has one of the highest rates oflandscape diversity in Ecuador: steep mountains,shrub highlands with frailejones, wetlands, cloudforests, valleys, hills, rivers, and lagoons. As a

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LOCATION: Cotopaxi, Tungurahua,Napo, and Pastaza.AREA: 219,707 hectares.ELEVATION: 1,200 – 4,571 masl.CLIMATE: cold in the upper parts andwarm and humid in the lower.ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest,Andean forest, shrubby highlands,frailejones highlands, herbaceoushighlands, lagoons, and wetlands.

Mulatos River

Ana Tenorio River

Topo River

The Llanganates Crests

Abitagua

Latacunga

Ambato

PelileoPatate

Jatunyacu

Salcedo

Mount Cerro Hermoso

4 639 m

PisayamboLagoons

Yanacocha

Baños Río Verde Río Negro

To Te

na

To Puyo

El Mirador

El Triunfo

Pastaza River

San José de PoalóTo

Qui

to

NapoProvince

CotopaxiProvince

PastazaProvince

TungurahuaProvince

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

result, the activities on offer to tourists are varied,from sports fishing to climbing broken peaks.

Though for humans the landscape is wild, for otherspecies the Llanganates are home: spectacled bears,mountain deer, Andean tapirs, foxes, and subtropicalnocturnal monkeys. At the same time, the variety ofbirds surprises even the most avid of bird watchers, andincludes from rare Andean species to numerous typesof parrots on mountainsides that drop to the Amazon.

The splendor of this magical place is reflectedeven in its name. Llankanati is a Kichwa word for“site for delivering” or “visiting,” an expression thatperhaps refers to the veil of mystery shrouding theLlanganates. They say that the profile of the highestpoint, the Hermoso Peak, or Tupu, is that of the IncaAtahualpa’s head, but it is covered in clouds most ofthe time, as is the legendary treasure.

14

Pisayambo LagoonsA lovely lacustrine system that can be reached fromthe town of Píllaro, to the west of the park. A lot oftrails that run through the highlands begin here.

Mount Cerro Hermoso (4,639 masl)From the lagoons, the visitor can take the long, labori-ous hike to this peak, the highest point in the park.

El Mirador (the lookout)This is at a medium elevation near Pisayambo, witha spectacular view of highlands and smallerlagoons in the area.

Abitagua CrestsMountains of the upper Amazon, to the east of thereserve, ideal for watching parrots and other bird species.

Rivers in the eastern areaThe Mulatos River basin, with a number of outstand-ing endemic species of orchids and epiphytic plants.

Rivers and waterfalls in the southern areaFrom the Baños-Puyo highway, visitors can reachthe Topo, Verde, and Negro rivers and their water-falls which contain a wide range of biodiversityand a large number of endemic species.

A legend of beauty and adventure

The World Wildlife Fund, an international con-servation organization, has declared thisreserve a “Gift to the Earth,” the highest honorit awards to a protected area.

Mount Cerro Hermoso

Mulatos River, with the peak of Mount Cerro Hermoso in the background

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CHIMBORAZO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE

rom Guayaquil, when the clouds clear andthe air turns crystalline, you can see on the

horizon the resplendent peak of taita (father, inKichwa) Chimborazo. If this giant inspires admi-ration at a distance of 600 kilometers, standingat its foot is an overwhelming experience.

With 6,310 meters of granite and ice, the high-est volcano in the country is this reserve’s majorattraction. The colossal, 20 kilometers in diameter,rises in the middle of a semi-arid grassland wherethe scarce vegetation alternates with patches ofsand, a scene very different from the humid high-lands in the rest of Ecuador.

Facing Chimborazo’s bulk is Carihuairazo,an extinct volcano whose enormous collapsedcrater suggests that it might have once beenas large as its neighbor’s. A long and demand-ing walk between the two snow-covered peaksis rewarded by spectacular views of monumen-tal glaciers.

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LOCATION: Bolívar, Tungurahua, and Chimborazo.AREA: 58,560 hectares.ELEVATION: 3,200 – 6,310 masl.CLIMATE: cold, between 0 and 10ºC.ECOSYSTEMS: Andean forest,sandy ground, herbaceous high-lands, dry highlands.

Amba

to R

iver

Salinas River

To G

ua

randa

Llangama

Rive

r

Mocha River

Guano

River

To R

ioba

mba

Chimborazo6 310 m

Carihuairazo5 020 m

Tamboloma

To Ambato

To Riobamba

Rumipata

Salinas

Simiatug

Padrerumi

Verdepungu

CununyacuAbraspungo Valley

ice mines

San Andrés

Pulinguí CentroPulinguí San Pablo

Cunuguachay

refuge

Machay temple

El ArenalCruz del Arenal Mechahuasca

Chimborazo Province

Bolívar Province

Tungurahua Province

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

But the frozen Andean peaks are not the onlydelightful aspect of these unique highlands. Sometrails in the reserve have become famous for moun-tain biking, especially the path that drops from therefuge on Chimborazo to the villages of Urbina andSan Juan, toward the inter-Andean valley.

Traveling around the enormous Chimborazo onthe highway to Guaranda, sometimes covered insnow, the arid landscape gives way to a mantle ofcolorful patches formed by Andean crops. Llamas,vicuñas, and alpacas wander about the reserve, cre-ated more than 20 years ago in order to reintroduceand protect these members of the camel family.

15

MMoouunntt CChhiimmbboorraazzoo ((66,,331100 mmaassll))The reserve has two refuges for mountainclimbers. The ascent is somewhat difficult andrequires the ability to climb on ice, good acclima-tization, and physical resistance.

MMoouunntt CCaarriihhuuaaiirraazzoo ((55,,002200 mmaassll))Chimborazo’s neighbor, though not as high. Thecrater is two kilometers in diameter.

HHoott sspprriinnggssIn Cununyacu, at 3,600 masl and near theColorado River, there is a complex of three poolswith mineral waters that reach 35ºC.

GGuuiiddeedd hhiikkeessOne of the most difficult is the Mocha-Mechahuasca, which takes two days and coversthe distance between Chimborazo andCarihuairazo. During the other hike in the south ofthe reserve, tourists visit the Machay Temple, anancestral site for making offerings to Chimborazo.

LLaa CChhoorrrreerraaA huge canyon where the river by the same nameis born and which exhibits huge, sharp rocks cutvertically and reaching up to 100 meters high.

CCoommmmuunniittyy ttoouurriissmmThe communities of Santa Anita, Pulingui SanPablo, Cruz del Arenal, and Simiátug offer lodging,food, and excursions with experienced guides.

Kingdom of the colossus of the Andes

Baltasar Ushca is famous for being the lasticeman on Chimborazo. Every week he climbson foot to the volcano’s snow covered areasto get ancient ice from its glaciers, which hethen sells in the markets of Riobamba.

42 43

Climber crowning the Whymper Needle, on Chimborazo

Highland fox with Chimborazo in the background

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CAJAS NATIONAL PARKore than 200 lagoons of all sizesdot the labyrinth of Azuay’s

highlands. For those who fish forsport, the ponds populated with troutare heavenly.

Unlike the highlands to the north,generally dominated by high peaks, thetopography of Cajas is filled with small,rounded hills, among which are dis-persed, like the lovely lagoons, forestsof pantzas (Polylepis), with their twist-ed branches and their unusual reddishtrunks. Mist, fog, and days of intensesunlight tint the park’s landscape,where the meeting of coastal andAmazon wind currents make theweather somewhat unpredictable.

The scenic wealth of Cajas is com-plemented by the cultural treasures hid-den in Cuenca, a mid-size, picturesquecity only 30 kilometers from the nation-al park and one of the major touristattractions of the country. One might saythat Cajas is Cuenca’s garden.

Because it is on the side of the majoraccess road, the Toreadora Lagoon is vis-ited more than any other, and the barand cafeteria service provide comfort inthe midst of a magnificent landscape.From this point a number of trails leadthe hiker to innumerable lagoons andvalleys, inviting the hiker to set up a tent.

But Cajas is more than a beautifulnatural site for relaxing. Trails and rocksat every level of difficulty attract thebest climbers in the country and theworld, making the park one of the mostattractive areas in Ecuador for rockclimbers. Mountain cyclers also findgreat challenges here.

MM

Tomebamba River

Yanuncay River

Molleturo

Migüir

Patul

Toreadora Lagoon

Taplacocha

Chorreras Lagoon

Ventanas Lagoon

Llaviucu Lagoon

Taitachungo LagoonOsohuaycu Lagoon

Canoyillos Lagoon

Estrellascocha

TocllacochaLagartococha

Tres Cruces

Chaucha

Paredones

Kapakñan

Sayausí

Soldados

Baños

To Cuenca

To Guayaquil

LOCATION: Azuay.AREA: 28,544 hectares.ELEVATION: 3,150 – 4,445 masl.CLIMATE: cold, between -2 and 18ºC.ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest,Andean forest, herbaceous highlands,lagoons, and wetlands.

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

16

Llaviucu Park and LagoonA natural and recreational destination 17kilometers northeast of Cuenca. Ideal forfishing, bird watching, or walking along oneof three self-guided trails.

Toreadora LagoonFrom here the visitor can go to the area’senvironmental interpretation center andto the Illincocha, Taitachungo, andUnidas lagoons.

Lagartococha LagoonThis is the largest in the park and a favoriteamong sports fishermen. The surroundingsoffer beautiful views of the highlands.

Tres Cruces HillA natural lookout more than 4,200 maslwhere a watershed is located, one sideleading to the Amazon and the other tothe Pacific.

Ingañán or Kapakñán RoadA four kilometer stretch of the old Incaroad, between the Luspa Cave and theMamamag Lagoon, has been restored. Agood part of the way is paved with thestones originally used.

Intricate highlands dotted with mirrors

A good part of the water from this park feeds thePaute Hydroelectric Complex, the most importantenergy source in the country, and provides potablewater to the city of Cuenca.

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Lagoons in the highlands of Cajas

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A rock climbing site in Cajas

5 km

PODOCARPUS NATIONAL PARK

his park, with its megadiversity, descendsfrom the cold Andean highlands to the hot

Amazon basin. It takes its name from the ancientromerillo, or Podocarpus. The romerillo is the onlynative conifer in the country, and just one of thefour thousand plant species that grow here. It isnot unusual to find eight kinds of colorful orchidson the trunk of a single tree of medium height.Just imagin there are giants up to forty meterstall! These veritable skyscrapers provide a resi-dence for dozens of different species.

For bird lovers, Podocarpus is also an excep-tional place. More than 600 species make this des-tination a must not only for experts but also for

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LOCATION: Loja and Zamora Chinchipe.AREA: 146,280 hectares.ELEVATION: 900 – 3,600 masl.CLIMATE: varies according to altitude,between 6 and 22ºC.ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest,shrub highlands, herbaceous highlands, lagoons.

Loja

Zamora

Num

bal

a Ri

ver

Tres Cruces

Toledo Hill

Tapichalaca Hill

Cajanuma

Bombuscaro

Compadre Lagoons

Banderillas Lagoons

Vilcabamba

Yangana

Malacatos

Quinara

Valladolid

Romerillos Bajo

Saba

nilla

s Ran

ge

SabanillaZumbi

Bombuscara Riv

er

Nan

garitza River

Chumbiritza River

Zamora River

To Zumb

a

To Macas

LojaProvince

Zamora ChinchipeProvince

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

bird watching hobbyists. In 1997, the significanceof the avian fauna increased even more with thediscovery of the jocoto, a rare and timid species ofantpitta found near the park and of which somefifty-plus individuals have been sighted.

This biological wealth has, as a backdrop, land-scapes of incomparable beauty: from valleys to moun-tains and extensive grasslands, steep hillsides anddeep canyons, crystalline rivers, impressive waterfalls,and close to one hundred lagoons that can be visitedby hikers. On the way to the Compadre Lagoons thereis a picturesque refuge equipped with dining roomand kitchen, and a few comfortable cabins that allowthe visitor to enjoy longer stays in Podocarpus.

17

Compadre LagoonsThis system of lagoons, famous for trout fishing, isfourteen kilometers from the Cajanuma administra-tive center. Visitors may camp on the shores andexplore the surroundings dotted with smaller lagoons.

BombuscaroSix kilometers from Zamora is a sector that takesits name from the Bombuscaro River, with self-guided trails, a large diversity of birds, and apleasant climate, ideal for a swim.

Cerro ToledoA natural lookout in the south of the park from whichvisitors can observe the forest and the topographytypical of the southern Andes. Ideal for bird watching.

Yangana and Quinara ValleysTwo small valleys in the south of the park where,according to belief, Inca treasures are hidden.

Sabanillas RangeThe pass to this branch of the Andes, on the high-way to Valladolid, provides access to an Andeanforest and herbaceous highlands, both extraordi-nary. Nearby is the private Tapichalaca Reserve,the home of the very rare jocotoco antpitta.

Vilcabamba ValleyThis legendary warm valley is located south ofLoja, on the way to Yangana and Valladolid. It isfamous for the longevity of its inhabitants. It isnear the park with which it shares native forestsideal for hikes.

The great natural space in the south of the country

Near the park is Vilcabamba, a mythical townthat, they say, based on the unusual longevity ofits residents, contains the secret of a long life.

46 47

Cloud forest in Sabanillas

The jocotoco antpitta, an endemic bird in the south of the country

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The Laguna Grande of the Cuyabeno River

50 51

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS18LOCATION: Sucumbíos and Orellana.

AREA: 603,380 hectares.

ELEVATION: 200 – 280 masl.

CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest,lagoons, and wetlands.

CUYABENO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE

hat picture of the Amazon covered by monoto-nous stretches of impenetrable forest is shat-

tered by the magical Cuyabeno, where trees emergefrom the water, rivers turn into winding arteries, andsunsets have the color of marmalade. In thisenchanted land there are no common creatures but,instead, characters from fantastic tales: giant ottersand dwarf caimans, monkeys that fit ina pocket, pink dolphins, and even thecapybara, a rodent that weighs 50 kilos,the largest in the world!

Bewitched by the swaying cur-rent, the Imuyacocha Islands take onlife and begin a new day at a site otherthan the one we left them at the nightbefore. And as if this weren’t enoughenchantment for Cuyabeno, in thepeaceful Zancudococha the sky hasdoubled: there’s one above, blue, infi-nite, and populated with fluffy clouds,

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CCuuyyaabbeennoo LLaaggoooonnssA complex of 14 interconnected black waterlagoons. In the Laguna Grande there are threetrails that wind through the forest: Hormiga,Saladero de Dantas, and Palma Roja.

ZZaannccuuddooccoocchhaaThis is the largest and roundest black waterlagoon of the Ecuadorian Amazon, whereaquatic fauna can be seen, especially black andspectacled caimans.

CCuuyyaabbeennoo RRiivveerrVisitors can paddle dugouts along the small tribu-taries of the Cuyabeno to see close up turtles andinnumerable bird species.

LLaaggaarrttoo RRiivveerr CCoommpplleexxAn enormous set of lagoons and rivers, hometo manatees and pink dolphins that tend toreceive visitors by blowing streams of water.

CCoommmmuunniittyy ttoouurriissmmLodging and excursions with indigenous com-munities in the reserve, such as the Cofán ofZábalo, along with visits to communities andconversations with their chiefs.

This is the protected area with the greatestnumber of ethnic groups, indigenous com-munities belonging to the Siona, Secoya,Cofán, Kichwa, and Shuar nationalities.

and another below, a perfect reflection of the firstin an immense mirror of black and, at the sametime, crystalline water.

Macaws, toucans, multicolored tanagers, agilemonkeys, and sleepy sloths adorn the vegetation thatsurrounds Cuyabeno’s aquatic labyrinths: small, inter-connected lagoons around which dugouts equipped

with paddles and a few boats with out-board motors circulate. And, on a sunnyafternoon it is hard to resist the tempta-tion to test the water of the floodedforests. If swimming among trees seemslike a fantasy, doing so among caimans,dolphins, and piranhas is even more sur-prising, something only possible in thesemagical lands.

There is a wide selection of lodginginside and outside the reserve, satisfyingtastes from those of the most citified tothose of the most intrepid of explorers.

A magical labyrinth of flooded forest

Dusk falls on the flooded forests of Cuyabeno

Canangüeno Lagoon in the Cuyabeno RiverPigmy marmoset

Cuyabeno River

Shushu�ndi River

To Lago Agrio

Aguarico river

Napo River

Napo River

Tiputini River

Putumayo River

Lagartococha River

Güepi River

Aguarico River

Aguarico River

San Miguel River

Tarapoa

Dureno

Churitza

fork in the roadat Tarapoa

San Pablo de Kantesiayá

Tarapoa Lagoon

Puerto Bolívar

Pañacocha

Garzacocha

Añangucocha Yuturi

Puerto El Carmen de Putumayo

Tiputini

boca del Tiputini

Shushu�ndi

Playas de Cuyabeno

Sábalo

Pigualí Lagoon

Pañacocha

Laguna Grande

Garzacocha

Piuricocha

Imuya Lagoon

Zancudococha

CuyabenoBridge

Limoncocha

To Coca

Pompeya

Orellana Province

Sucumbíos Province

Perú

Colombia

Yasuní National Park

Limoncocha Biological Reserve

Cuyabeno - ImuyaIntangible Zone

(Area where conservationis absolute)

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CAYAMBE-COCA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS19

LOCATION: Imbabura, Pichincha, Napo, andSucumbíos.AREA: 403,103 hectares.ELEVATION: 600 – 5,790 masl.CLIMATE: varies between 5 and 25ºC,according to altitude.ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest,herbaceous highlands, lagoons, and wetlands.

his is the only place in the world where theequator crosses perpetual snow or, in other

words, where latitude and temperature are zerodegrees. The phenomenon happens on the glaciersof Cayambe, the third highest peak in Ecuador(5,790 masl). With its steep walls and wide peak,the snow-covered volcano is one of the mostattractive of this enormous reserve. Mountainclimbing fans will also find Saraúrco and Puntasexcellent options of varying difficulty.

Eighty-one lagoons dot the highlands ofthese mountains, most of them part of theÑucanchi Turupamba lacustrine complex. Andwhen it gets really cold, the hot baths ofPapallacta or Oyacachi warm, heal, and relax.

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PPaappaallllaaccttaa LLaaggoooonn aanndd ÑÑuuccaanncchhii TTuurruuppaammbbaallaaccuussttrriinnee ccoommpplleexxSome 60 large and small lagoons surround-ed by highlands and Andean forest, withself-guided trails and camp sites. Nearby arethermal waters and the beginning of thetrekking routes “Water and Life” and “Sucus”.

OOyyaaccaacchhiiA Kichwa community located to the south-west of the reserve, famous for crafts madeof wood from the alder tree, hot baths, andthe original settlement, known as PuebloViejo, made completely of stone.

MMoouunntt CCaayyaammbbee ((55,,779900 mmaassll))Located in the west of the reserve, the vol-cano has a refuge at 4,600 masl from whichthe climb to the peak begins.

MMoouunntt PPuunnttaass ((44,,446633 mmaassll)) There are 48 sharp points at the peak, someas high as 150 meters; reached from thetown of El Quinche.

MMoouunntt RReevveennttaaddoorr ((33,,448855 mmaassll))One of the most active volcanoes in thecountry, located in the low northeast area ofthe reserve; this is an area difficult to get toand rich in wildlife.

A sea of biodiversity, from the Andean snows to the Amazon

From the Kichwa community of Oyacachi, thevisitor can descend to El Chaco, in the lower areaof the reserve, after two or three days of hikingthe length of an enchanting river.

Now in the Amazon, the splendid QuijosRiver offers 18 kilometers of rafting and kayak-ing. These impetuous waters descend fromReventador, an active and remote volcano ineastern Ecuador, accessible via a well-organizedexpedition. In the northeast of the reserve is theCofán community of Sinangüe, on the banks ofthe Aguarico River. A little below, the current ofthe Quijos River forms an extraordinary fall of130 meters, known as the San Rafael Waterfall, astop bird watchers must not miss.

54 55

San Rafael Waterfall, where the Quijos River becomes the Coca River

Rock climbing on Cayambe

Kayaking on the Quijos River

Cofanes River

Dantupamba River

Lacustrine Complex

Ñucanchi Turupam

ba

Azuela River

Salado River

Pisque River

Payamino River

Papallacta River

Due River

Aguarico River

Quijos River

Quijos River

Coca Riv

er

Atuntaqui

Tabacundo

Cayambe

Cangahua

La Rinconada

Sigsipamba

Encantada Lagoon

Papallacta Lagoon

El Quinche

Yaruquí

Pifo

Oyacachi

Papallacta

Cuyuja

Baeza

El Chaco

San RafaelSan RafaelWaterfall

El Reventador

To Quito

To Lago Agrio

Lumbaqui

CabenoSinangüé

Puerto Libre

Mount Saraurco4 677 m

Mount Cayambe5 790 m

Cusín Hill3 990 m

Ilaló Hill3 185 m

Negro Hill

Pan de Azúcar Hill3 500 m

Mount Fuya Fuya4 283 m

Mount Puntas4 463 m

Pambamarca4 075 m

Puruhanta Lagoon

San Marcos Lagoon

Cotacachi

Otavalo Mount Imbabura4 630 m

Mount Reventador3 485 m

Mount Cotacachi4 939 m

Mount Antisana5 755 m

San Pablo Lagoon

Mojanda Lagoon

Cuicocha

Ibarra

Pichincha Province

Napo Province

ImbaburaProvince

Sucumbíos Province

To Quito

Sumaco - Napo GalerasNational Park

Cofán - BermejoEcological Reserve

Oyacachi River

Olmedo (Pesillo)

To Pimampiro

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58 59

Blanco River

To Shushufindi

Jivino River

Quillupacay River

Capu

cuy River

Napo River

Limoncocha

Pompeya check point

Pompeya

Limoncocha

CICAMEmuseum

Yanacocha

20LOCATION: Sucumbíos.AREA: 4,613 hectares.ELEVATION: 230 masl.CLIMATE: warm and humid,25ºC, on average.ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rainforest, lagoons, and wetlands.

A moving experience in the Amazon near the Napo River

LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE

hen the sun sets on the horizon, pairs ofsmall eyes appear in Limoncocha and

stealthily inspect the surface. These are blackand spectacled caimans, lords and masters ofthe enormous mirrors of black water that givesits name to the reserve. With an area measuringtwo and a half square kilometers, Limoncocha ispart of a wetland on the northern bank of theformidable Napo River which yearly overflows,flooding the area.

Until the middle of the last century, this wasa remote place, known only to hunters and fish-ermen in the area; now it is surrounded by oilwells, but thanks to the fact that it has beendeclared a biological reserve, its exuberant land-scape has been preserved almost intact. Fromthe lagoon, on any morning, visitors will hearthe roars of howler monkeys marking their terri-tory kilometers away, or see enormous anacon-

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TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

LLiimmoonnccoocchhaaDaytime is perfect for watching aquatic birds, fish,and turtles, while at night there are a lot ofcaimans. Watching them is not dangerous.

YYaannaaccoocchhaaOr black lagoon, located in a swampy area coveredwith thick vegetation. It is believed that thecaimans lay their eggs here and that many ana-condas live in the swamp.

CCaappuuccuuyy RRiivveerrIdeal for watching rare species of parrots andmacaws as there has been little human impact.

EEll CCaaiimmáánn TTrraaiillThis is a path through secondary forest, with infor-mation on native uses of plants.

BBaannkkss ooff tthhee NNaappoo RRiivveerrThere are many islands and beaches that are per-fect for recreation and enjoyment of nature.

CCIICCAAMMEE AArrcchhaaeeoollooggiiccaall MMuusseeuummLocated in Pompeya, the museum offers animportant collection of pieces from differentindigenous cultures.

Every year the northern bank ofthe Napo moves 14 metersinland, part of a natural processthat will result in Limoncochabecoming another branch of theriver in 50 years.

das five meters long wrapped around the treesof the Yanacocha, another spectacular lagoon inthe reserve.

It is possible to sail the waters ofLimoncocha in a piragua, accompanied by thefinest guides of the region: members of Kichwacommunities that existed in the reserve before itwas declared a protected area. It is also safe toswim, though it is always recommended thatvisitors do so far from shore. Those who preferland can walk along an ethnobotanical trail, ElCaimán, to the southeast of the lagoon: twokilometers inside a secondary forest where treesand bushes display signs with information,introducing themselves courteously to visitors.

Although tourism is just beginning, theindigenous communities of Limoncocha wouldlike to receive more visitors for whom they havelodging and guide services.

Limoncocha

Nocturnal shot of a dwarf caiman

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TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS

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LOCATION: Orellana and Pastaza.AREA: 982,000 hectares.ELEVATION: 300 – 600 masl.CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average.ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest,wetlands, and lagoons.

Rivers surrounded by all the mysteries of the Amazon forest

YASUNÍ NATIONAL PARKithout a doubt, the word more best definesthe Yasuní: in barely a hectare of this park

there are more plant species than in all of NorthAmerica; a tree in the Yasuní is home to moretypes of ants than exist in all of England. Morethan 50% of the mammals of Ecuador are foundhere, and the park contains the widest range ofreptiles and amphibians in South America… Allthis and much more make the Yasuní the site ofthe greatest biodiversity on the planet.

Sailing along the winding white waterrivers or the black tea lagoons of the forest,accompanied by the music of oropendolas,parrots, toucans, and other birds, all the visitorneeds is a pair of binoculars to get close to thewealth of fauna: from tiny hummingbirds toenormous harpy eagles, slow tortoises, andswift pink dolphins, colorful insects, tiny poi-sonous frogs, and huge anacondas. This exu-berance of life has contributed to the parkbeing designated a World Biosphere Reserve.

This corner of the Amazon also contains afabulous cultural heritage: Kichwa andWaorani communities offer experiences innature tourism, such as excursions alongrivers, the practice of local traditions, and

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RRiivveerr eexxccuurrssiioonnssNavigate the Tiputini, Curaray, Shiripuno, andCononaco rivers aboard long canoes piloted byKichwa or Waorani guides, the best way to discoverthe treasures of the Yasuní.

AAññaanngguuccoocchhaaFrom the community of Añangu, in the northwestsection of the park, a one-hour walk along a trailtakes visitors to a lagoon known for its attractivesurroundings. The outing can be continued by canoe.

JJaattuunnccoocchhaaAt this spot in the northeast of the park, near theYasuní River, there is an excellent site for watch-ing pink dolphins.

EEccoollooggiiccaall llooddggeessAt some sites there are ecological hotels owned bycommunities or managed by private parties along withcommunities. These are found in the areas of Añangu,Shiripuno, Bataburo, Gareno, Sani Isla, and Yarina.

SSaann JJoosséé ddee CCuurraarraayyThis is a small community near the park’s southernborder where residents make craft items for saleoutside the Yasuní.

The Yasuní-ITT Initiative proposes givingup oil production in the park in exchangefor contributions from the internationalcommunity, in order to assure conserva-tion of the biodiversity and to avoid thecarbon emissions that would be producedif that oil were burned. For more infor-mation: www.yasuni-itt.gov.ec

wildlife watching. While in the north of thepark there are several ecological lodges, thereare more lodging choices outside the park,along the Napo River.

In the Yasuní, the uncontacted Tagaeri,Taromenane, and Oñamenane peoples have beencornered by the western world in the so-called“untouchable zone,” an area legally preserved inan attempt to contribute to their survival. In spiteof the various protected designations, oil extrac-tion, the felling of cedar, and wildlife ilegal traderepresent serious threats to the park and its peo-ple. Ecological tourism seems to be an alternativeto these high-impact activities.

Observation platform in the forest canopy

Tiputini River lagoon

Añangucocha

Bloque 31 Road

Limoncocha

Limoncocha Biological ReserveCuyabeno Fauna Production Reserve

Nuevo Rocafuerte

PompeyaCoca

Lorocachi

Tiputini

Añangu Garzacocha Pañacocha

El EdénYuturi

Yasuní Scientific Station

Pavacachi

Aguarico River

Nashiño River

Yasuní River

Curaray River

Shiripuno River

Napo River

Napo River

Tivacuno River

Tigüino River

Cononaco River

Tiputini River

Garzacocha

Piuricocha

Imuya Lagoon

Zancudococha

Jatuncocha

Perú

Sucumbíos Province

Orellana Province

Pastaza Province

Tiputini Biodiversity Station

To Lago Agrio

To Quito

Auca Road

Yasuní Intangible Zone(Area where conservation

is absolute)

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TTOOUURRIISSTT AATTTTRRAACCTTIIOONNSS22LOCATION: Cañar, Tungurahua, Chimborazo,and Morona Santiago.

AREA: 517,765 hectares.

ELEVATION: 1,000 – 5,230 masl.

CLIMATE: varies according to altitude,between 6 and 24ºC.

ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest, Andean forest,herbaceous highlands, dry highlands, lagoons,and wetlands.

SANGAY NATIONAL PARK

ivers, lagoons, waterfalls, tropical and cloudforests, Andean valleys, highlands, snow-cov-

ered peaks… Almost half of Ecuador’s ecosystemsare found in this immense protected area, declaredpart of the Natural Heritage of Humankind. This isa destination for adventurers since any degree ofaccess implies long hikes. However, the landscapes,dominated by three icy, majestic giants, make itworth the effort.

Sangay, in the center of the park, is one of theleast accessible peaks in the country. From beneaththe clouds in which it is usually shrouded therecome occasional roars and frequent columns ofsmoke and ash that remind visitors that the vol-cano is in a permanent state of activity. Thus,climbers must take special care.

To the north rises El Altar, described by many asthe most beautiful peak in the country. This view isratified by the volcano’s Kichwa name, Kapak Urku,

RR

CCoollllaanneess VVaalllleeyyHere visitors will have the most spectacular view of ElAltar, considered the most beautiful of Ecuador’s volca-noes and the most difficult to climb. This is also a love-ly place to camp.

EEll AAllttaarr llaaggoooonnssFrom Cubijies, on the Riobamba-Baños highway, travelerscome to the Verde, Azul, Estrellada, Mandur, andQuindecocha lagoons, located south of Altar.

EEll PPllaacceerr hhoott bbaatthhssAlong the long highlands trail that passes the NegraLagoon are the hot baths of El Placer, a traditionalrecreation spot for local residents.

OOzzooggoocchhee aanndd AAttiilllloo llaaggoooonnssThe Riobamba-Azogues road provides access to two lacus-trine systems where, periodically, numerous birds fall intothe water and, for no apparent reason, die.

SSaarrddiinnaayyaaccuu LLaaggoooonnUnique in the country for being surrounded by primarypremontane forest, with varied, virtually untouchedflora and fauna.

GGuuaammoottee--MMaaccaass rrooaaddCuts through the park from west to east, passingthrough beautiful landscapes with vegetation thatchanges on the way down to the Amazon. It is anaccess road to many subtropical attractions, such asthe Cugucha River waterfall, a lovely natural lookout.

which means “magnificent peak.” The crater of theextinct volcano collapsed, creating a number ofpeaks that today form a horseshoe, with the open-ing toward the long Collanes Valley. The thirdsnow-covered peak, Tungurahua, rises in the farnorthwest of the park. This cone began its currenteruptive process ten years ago. At night the volcanoputs on an impressive show, continually spittingincandescent stones from its crater.

While the snow-covered peaks and their sur-roundings are the major attraction of this area, as thetraveler goes east, the terrain becomes steeper andmore broken, and a dense cloud forest covers theearth, replete with orchids and bromeliads, and dot-ted with waterfalls and torrential rivers.

In addition, to the south the Inca trail, orKapakñan, runs through the park in the direction ofthe renowned temple of Ingapirca, where there area number of community tourism operations.

Home to three white giants and impenetrable cloud forests

64

Collanes Valley with El Altar in the background

Mount Sangay, a volcano flanked byChimborazo (left) and El Altar (right)

It is said that the broken appearance of Altaris due to the rage of taita (father) Chimborazowho, centuries ago, discovered the volcanomaking love to mama Tungurahua, his mil-lennial and impetuous partner.

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n addition to the twenty-one areas summarized in the previous section, thePANE offers other reserves distributed throughout the country. Some of them

were established during the past decade and are waiting to display their charmsto visitors. Below, we provide information on these areas.

I

THE OTHER PANE AREAS

68 69

Fungi in the tropical forest Rafting on eastern rivers

Dusk over the Pacific

Starfish

Ceibo, or kapok, tree in a dry forest

An extensive and very diverse forestreserve, refuge of the last remnants of theCoast’s rainforests and semi-deciduousforests.

LOCATION: Esmeraldas and Manabí.AREA: 119,172 hectares.ELEVATION: 200 – 800 masl.CLIMATE: warm and humid, between 18 and 36ºC.

ECOSYSTEMS: - dry forest- tropical rain forest- cloud forest- wetlands and lagoon

ACTIVITIES: hiking along self-guided trails,bird watching, trekking, nature watching,spelunking.

MACHE-CHINDUL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

The mangrove and the endangered caimanof the Coast are two emblematic speciesof this reserve, located just a few kilome-ters from the city of Guayaquil.

LOCATION: Guayas.AREA: 5,217 hectares.ELEVATION: 0 – 200 masl.CLIMATE: hot and humid, 26ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS:- mangrove- dry forest

ACTIVITIES: kayaking, waterskiing, canoeingand boating, wildlife watching.

EL SALADO MANGROVES FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE

This tiny island off the coast from Machalais home to what may be the largest colonyof marine birds in Ecuador: 14,000 frigatebirds, 4,000 brown pelicans, and 5,000blue-footed boobies.

LOCATION: El Oro.AREA: five hectares and two nautical miles.ELEVATION: 0 – 70 masl.CLIMATE: warm tropical.

ECOSYSTEMS:- dry forest- rocky coast with cliffs- sea floors

ACTIVITIES: bird watching, whale watching

ISLA SANTA CLARA WILDLIFE REFUGE

Along the green Muisne River, lovelybeaches alternate with remnants of man-groves preserved and used by Afro-Esmeraldan communities.

LOCATION: Esmeraldas.AREA: 3,173 hectares.ELEVATION: sea level.CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS:- mangrove- dry shrubland

ACTIVITIES: bird watching, fishing, trails forwalking, kayaking, wildlife watching.

MUISNE RIVER ESTUARYMANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE

In this mangrove reserve live thousands offrigatebirds, boobies, and pelicans on the Islade los Pájaros, and in the surrounding areathere is a resident school of friendly dolphins.

LOCATION: Guayas.AREA: 10,130 hectares.ELEVATION: sea level.CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS: - mangrove

ACTIVITIES: wildlife watching, bird watch-ing, kayaking, fishing.

EL MORRO MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE

Near Salinas, a popular beach, an invaluabletreasure is hidden: coral forests, whales, sealions, colorful fish, and huge colonies ofaquatic birds.

LOCATION: Santa Elena.AREA: Land: 177 hectares. Marine: 47,278hectares.ELEVATION: sea level.CLIMATE: dry and warm, 30ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS:- dry forest- wetlands- sandy and rocky beaches and cliffs- sand banks

ACTIVITIES: whale watching, bird watching,diving, snorkeling, fishing, sunbathing,kayaking, sailing.

SANTA ELENA PENINSULA MARINE FAUNA

PRODUCTION RESERVE

70 71

Snorkeling on the Ecuadorian coast

23

24 25 26

27

28

Beautiful bodies of water are part of this area,home to different monkey and bird species.Humpbacked whales visit the coast whilemarine tortoises nest on the beaches.

LOCATION: Manabí.AREA: Land: 5,045 hectares. Marine: 8,500hectares.ELEVATION: 0 – 350 masl.CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS:- dry forest- cloud forest- rocky reefs- sandy and rocky beaches- sea floors

ACTIVITIES: trails, bird watching, wildlifewatching, snorkeling, diving, bicycling, whalewatching, fishing, kayaking.

PACOCHE MARINE-COASTAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

Populated by mangroves, these islands in the broadChone River estuary are home to an enormouscolony of frigatebirds and other marine birds.

ISLA CORAZÓN AND FRAGATAS WILDLIFE REFUGE

Includes the estuary system of SanLorenzo, the largest, best-conserved in theSouth Pacific, and the tallest mangroves inthe world, located in Majagual.

LOCATION: Esmeraldas.AREA: 51,300 hectares.ELEVATION: 0 – 35 masl.CLIMATE: warm and humid, 24ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS:- mangrove- dry forest- tropical rain forest- estuaries, swamps, and lagoons

ACTIVITIES: wildlife watching, fishing, canoeing,bird watching, walks on self-guided trails

CAYAPAS-MATAJE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

One of the most extensive areas of dry scrubforest in the country, with a wide variety ofbirds. Administered by Ecuador’s army.

LOCATION: El Oro.AREA: 17,083 hectares.ELEVATION: 0 – 300 masl.CLIMATE: warm and humid, 26ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS:- mangrove- dry tropical forest

ACTIVITIES: walks on trails, bicycling, birdwatching.

ARENILLAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

This reserve is located around the ChongónRiver reservoir, ideal for sailing, fishing,and recreation on its spacious greengrounds. Very close to Guayaquil.

LOCATION: Guayas.AREA: 2,283 hectares.ELEVATION: 0 – 300 masl.CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS:- dry forest- wetland- reservoir

ACTIVITIES: kayaking, fishing, bird watch-ing, kite flying, sailing, family recreation,bicycling.

PARQUE LAGO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA

72 73

Diving in the Pacific

Crabs on the beach

La Rinconada, Manabí

Mangroves vital for marine diversity and thefishing communities whose livelihoods dependon their existence.

LOCATION: Esmeraldas.AREA: 242 hectares.ELEVATION: sea level.CLIMATE: warm and humid, 25ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS: - mangrove

ACTIVITIES: bird watching, wildlife watching,fishing, canoeing.

ESMERALDAS RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES

WILDLIFE REFUGE

LOCATION: Manabí.AREA: 700 hectares.ELEVATION: sea level.CLIMATE: dry tropical, 25 – 28ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS: mangrove.

ACTIVITIES: walks on self-guided trails, birdwatching.

29

30

31

32

33

34

Note: At the time this guide went to press, four new protected areas were created: the Isla Santay andIsla del Gallo National Recreation Area (2,214 hectares) in Guayas, los Samanes National RecreationArea (380 hectares) in Guayas, the Pambilar Wildlife Reserve (3,123 hectares) in Esmeraldas, and

the Yacuri National Park (43,090 hectares) in Loja and Zamora Chinchipe

74

Here unique ecosystems are protected,similar to the tepuis (flat-topped moun-tains) in northeastern South America.The intricate forests of the Cóndor range,land of the Shuar nationality, are rich inendemic species.

LOCATION: Morona Santiago.AREA: 9,071 hectares.ELEVATION: 1,700 – 2,480 masl.CLIMATE: between 18 and 24ºC.

ECOSYSTEMS:- cloud forest- Andean forest

ACTIVITIES: trail walking, bird watching,spelunking.

EL QUIMI BIOLOGICAL RESERVE

One of the most biodiverse and least exploredprotected areas in Ecuador; dense vegetationand steep mountainsides that descend to theAmazon make access difficult.

LOCATION: Napo and Orellana.AREA: 205,249 hectares.ELEVATION: 500 – 3,732 masl.CLIMATE: varies with altitude.

ECOSYSTEMS: - tropical rain forest- cloud forest- Andean forest- herbaceous highlands

ACTIVITIES: trail walking, bird watching,mountain climbing, trekking, wildlife watch-ing, rafting, spelunking.

SUMACO-NAPO GALERAS NATIONAL PARK

A small protected area in the impressive,extremely diverse Cóndor range, ances-tral land of the Shuar, threatened bylarge-scale mining.

LOCATION: Morona Santiago.AREA: 3,643 hectares.ELEVATION: 1,400 – 1,680 masl.CLIMATE: 22ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS: cloud forest.

ACTIVITIES: trail walking, bird watching.

EL ZARZA WILDLIFE REFUGE

Made up of very diverse rain forests, fromlow tropical forest to Andean forests, thisis part of the ancestral territory of theCofán nationality.

LOCATION: Sucumbíos.AREA: 55,451 hectares.ELEVATION: 400 – 2,275 masl.CLIMATE: varies with altitude.

ECOSYSTEMS: - tropical rain forest- cloud forest- Andean forest- shrubby highlands

ACTIVITIES: trail walking, bird watching,trekking, spelunking, wildlife watching,kayaking, sports fishing.

COFÁN-BERMEJO ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

The Cordillera del Cóndor is recognized asone of the most beautiful areas in thecountry, with mysterious cloud foreststhat cover rolling limestone formations.

LOCATION: Morona Santiago.AREA: 2,440 hectares.ELEVATION: 200 – 2,920 masl.CLIMATE: varies with altitude, between 13and 22ºC.

ECOSYSTEMS:- tropical rain forest- cloud forest- Andean forest

ACTIVITIES: trail walking, bird watching,spelunking, wildlife watching.

EL CÓNDOR BINATIONAL PARK

A tropical rain forest reserve in serious dan-ger of disappearing due to increasing defo-restation for agriculture and timber.

LOCATION: Esmeraldas.AREA: 809 hectares.ELEVATION: 19 – 120 masl.CLIMATE: warm and humid, 26ºC, on average.

ECOSYSTEMS: tropical rain forest.

ACTIVITIES: bird watching.

LA CHIQUITA WILDLIFE REFUGE

75

Ocelot

Bird watching in the Amazon

35

39

40

41

42 43

3637

3844

Tropical rain forestLocated in the lowlands of the Coast and inAmazon provinces. The forest can reach 30 metersin height, with even taller trees towering overtheir companions, and with different strata ofvegetal growth, from the canopy of the forest tothe floor. In the Amazon, there are two types offorest, tierra firme and flooded around rivers.Harpy eagles, toucans, macaws, guans, and hun-dreds of other birds; large mammals, such as thejaguar, the tapir, the spider monkey, the giantarmadillo, and enormous trees such as the chanul,tropical cedar, ceibo, sande, and copal, are themost characteristic species.

Cloud forestOn the flanks of the Andes cloud forests arefound. The height of the forest is lower that of theAmazon and trees have a large number of plantsgrowing on their branches. These plants, calledepiphytes, include bromeliads, orchids, hundredsof mosses, and ferns. Though the biodiversity isbelow that of the plains, the variety of humming-birds and orchids stands out, as do the manyendemic amphibians and the enigmatic specta-cled bear, nocturnal monkey, ocelot, and pacarana.

Andean forestAbove the cloud forest is the Andean forest, short-er and with a greater density of mosses and epi-phytes growing on twisted tree branches and theground. The forests border on the highlands. Thebest known inhabitants of these forests are tan-agers, a dozen hummingbird species, the Andeanguan, and Andean toucans; together with weasels,skunks, porcupines, marsupial frogs, harlequinfrogs, and burrowing lizards. Among plants, thepumamaqui (`puma´s hand´ in Kichwa), Andeancherry, myrtle, wax laurel, quishuar (a sacred tree),and queñoa, or paper tree, stand out.

HighlandsBetween the Andean forest and the rocky and snow-covered peaks are the highlands. Not all highlandsare the same. There are desert highlands; wetterhighlands characterized by a diversity of grasses;cushion plant highlands, adapted to soils saturatedwith water; shrub highlands; and highlands on whichthe frailejón flourishes. White-tailed deer, wild mice,grassland cats, highland foxes, frogs, harlequin toads,

Dry forestOn the central and southern Coast there are dryforests. The twisted forms change from greenwhen it rains to brown during the summer.Kapoks, pigios, lignum vitae, guatos, guazmos, andpechiches are characteristic trees, while moyuyos,carobs, and various cacti are prevalent in bushyareas. There is a high degree of endemism amongbirds, and fauna also includes howler monkeys,squirrels, ocelots, Sechura foxes, big-mouthedfrog, and various lizards

Marine ecosystemsThe diversity of marine ecosystems is extensive:from sandy and rocky beaches and those withcliffs, to rocky and coral reefs and sandy sea bot-toms. There is a wide variety of fish, such as clownand butterfly fish, ballestas, trumpet fish, morays,parrot fish, gallinetas, together with turtles andhundreds of invertebrates that live in the reefs,while sharks, sting rays, eels, and flounder standout on the sandy bottoms.

Mangroves and estuariesKissing the sea we come to the thick mangroveswhose five different species grow on salty soils.The mangroves provide a refuge and a reproduc-tion site for hundreds of fish and marine inverte-brates. Currently, the most extensive mangrovesare found in the Gulf of Guayaquil, the estuariesof the Muisne and Chone Rivers and the SanLorenzo estuary. The variety and number of marineand shore bird are surprising.

Rivers, lagoons, and wetlandsAll of Ecuador is full of aquatic ecosystems:lagoons, lakes, wetlands, swamps, rivers, streams.Many, many lagoons are in the highlands, fromwhich torrential rivers descend the Andean slopesto feed the larger, slower rivers of the lowlands. Inthe Amazon, the rivers form lagoons at their oldbends. On the Coast, near the ocean, there are anumber of lagoons and bogs with a high diversityof fish and aquatic birds. The rivers with thegreatest volume in the country are found in theAmazon, and in Guayas and Esmeraldas.

GalapagosThe small islands and islets are arid, with a fewspiny plants, but the larger and higher islandshave mangroves on their coasts and rainforests in the high areas. Here, the forests withScalesia and Miconia, species endemic to theGalapagos, stand out. On the highest peaks arethe pampas, where ferns and grasses grow. Thecoral reefs are richer than those of Ecuador’scontinental seas, and the sand banks areextensive. The entire archipelago is character-ized by fauna and flora unique in the world.

Diversityof ecosystems in protected

areashe variety of ecosystems in Ecuadoris mind-boggling. Fortunately, themajority of these are protected

within the PANE, though some of them,such as the dry forests and the coralreefs, still receive very little attention. Inbrief, below are some of the characteris-tics of each ecosystem:

T

• binoculars• rubber boots• camera

• mosquito net• jeans or slacks• sunscreen

What to take to the tropical rain forest

• binoculars• warm sleeping bag• rubber boots or hiking boots• camera• canteen with water• waterproof jacket• food

• camping equipment• bags with hermetic seals• hat and gloves• flashlight• sunscreen• very warm clothing• hat and sunglasses

What to take to the Andean forest andthe highlands

• binoculars• camera• canteen with water• camping equipment• flashlight• mosquito net• snorkeling or diving equipment

• sunscreen• insect repellant• light clothing• hat and sunglasses• swimsuit• walking/hiking shoes

What to take to the dry forest and the beach

• binoculars• rubber boots• camera• canteen with water• camping equipment

• bags with hermetic seals• raincoat or poncho• flashlight• warm clothing• hat

What to take to the cloud forest

• binoculars• camera• canteen with water• snorkeling or diving equipment

• bags with hermetic seals• raincoat or poncho

• sunscreen• insect repellant• light clothing• hat and sunglasses• swimsuit• walking or hiking shoes

What to take to the Galapagos

• binoculars• rubber boots• camera• long-sleeved shirt• canteen with water• bags with hermetic seals

• raincoat or poncho• jeans or slacks• sunscreen• insect repellant• light clothing• hat and sunglasses

What to take to mangroves and estuaries

rock lizards, and more than a hundred bird specieslive in these ecosystems which, in addition, representthe largest fresh water storage area in the country.

• long-sleeved shirt• canteen with water• bags with hermetic seals• raincoat or poncho• flashlight

• repellant• light clothing• hat and sunglasses• swimsuit• yellow fever vaccination

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Gal

apag

os

Nat

iona

l Par

k

Arou

nd 5

0 ki

lom

eter

s so

uth

of M

anta

and

60

kilo

met

ers

sout

hwes

t of

Por

tovi

ejo.

In t

he n

orth

, acc

ess

is o

n th

e Ji

pija

pa

– Pu

erto

Cay

o ro

ad; i

n th

e so

uth,

on

the

Libe

rtad

– P

uert

o Ca

yo ro

ad. T

here

are

bus

es fr

om Q

uito

(10

hour

s) a

nd

Gua

yaqu

il (4

hou

rs) t

o Pu

erto

Lóp

ez.

Ecua

doria

ns U

S$2.

00; I

sla d

e la

Pla

ta U

S$3.

50; c

ombi

ned

US$5

.00.

Fore

igne

rs U

S$12

.00;

Isla

de

la P

lata

US$

15.0

0; c

ombi

ned

US$2

0.00

.

Info

rmat

ion

Cent

er is

in P

uert

o Ló

pez

08h0

0 –

16h0

0 M

onda

y to

Frid

ay; 0

8h00

– 1

4h00

Sat

urda

y an

d Su

nday

Los

Frai

les

beac

h, 0

8h30

– 1

5h00

ent

ry.

Agua

Bla

nca

com

mun

ity, 0

8h00

– 1

6h30

ent

ry.

Isla

de

la P

lata

, 08h

30 –

11h

00, l

eavi

ng fr

om P

uert

o Ló

pez.

Jorg

e M

acía

s05

2 30

0 17

0, P

uert

o Ló

pez

Mac

halil

la

Nat

iona

l Par

k

Prin

cipl

e Ac

cess

to

the

rese

rve

is a

t ki

lom

eter

49

of t

he

Gua

yaqu

il –

Mac

hala

hig

hway

. The

re a

re t

wo

way

s to

get

to

that

poi

nt: t

he G

uaya

quil

– Bo

liche

or

the

Dur

án –

Tam

bo

expr

essw

ay. I

t is

als

o po

ssib

le t

o en

ter

by b

oat

from

G

uaya

quil

or P

osor

ja.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$2.

00; c

abin

s US$

3.00

Fore

igne

rs: U

S$10

.00;

cab

ins U

S$5.

00.

Cano

e fo

r 12

pers

ons:

US$

15.0

0/ho

ur

06h0

0 -

16h0

0

Brun

o Yá

nez

042

306

645,

Gua

yaqu

il

Man

glar

es-C

huru

te

Ecol

ogic

al R

eser

ve

35 k

ilom

eter

s so

uthw

est o

f Tul

cán.

The

re is

acc

ess

to fo

ur s

ecto

rs

of th

e re

serv

e: v

ia E

l Áng

el –

La

Libe

rtad

– M

orán

, cro

ssin

g th

e en

tire

rese

rve;

via

San

Isid

ro –

Pal

o Bl

anco

, on

the

sout

hwes

t sid

e; v

ia T

ulcá

n –

Tufiñ

o –

Mal

dona

do, t

o th

e no

rth;

and

via

the

old

El Á

ngel

- T

ulcá

n hi

ghw

ay, t

o th

e El

Vol

ader

o se

ctor

.

Ecua

doria

n: U

S$2.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

10.0

0At

tent

ion

24 h

ours

, nig

ht a

cces

s re

stric

ted.

Carlo

s M

olin

a

062

977

597

/ 147

, El Á

ngel

El Á

ngel

Ec

olog

ical

Res

erve

From

the

city

of E

smer

alda

s, by

way

of T

he R

oute

of t

he

Spon

dylu

s , a

few

kilo

met

ers

beyo

nd T

onch

igüe

the

vis

itor

take

s a

seco

ndar

y ro

ad t

owar

d th

e w

est.

This

cro

sses

Gal

era

and

ends

in S

an F

ranc

isco

, goi

ng t

hrou

gh t

he re

serv

e.

No

fee

esta

blis

hed.

Esm

eral

das

Prov

inci

al O

ffic

e06

2 72

1 78

1

Gal

era-

San

Fran

cisc

o M

arin

e Re

serv

e

Usef

ul in

form

atio

n

Loca

ted

30 k

ilom

eter

s no

rth

of L

atac

unga

and

75

kilo

met

ers

sout

h of

Qui

to. O

n th

e Pa

nam

eric

an, i

n Sa

nta

Rita

, fol

low

the

ro

ad e

ast

for 5

kilo

met

ers

until

the

con

trol

poi

nt a

t Ca

spi.

It is

po

ssib

le t

o ta

ke a

bus

to

Lass

o an

d th

ere

hire

a p

icku

p tr

uck.

In

the

nort

h, e

ntry

is t

hrou

gh M

acha

chi i

n El

Ped

rega

l sec

tor.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$2.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

10.0

0In

clud

es e

ntra

nce

fee

for E

l Bol

iche

Nat

iona

l Rec

reat

ion

Area

08h0

0 -

16h0

0, e

ntra

nce

Rodr

igo

Toap

anta

03

2 81

2 76

8, L

atac

unga

Coto

paxi

N

atio

nal P

ark

Ther

e ar

e tw

o m

ajor

acc

ess

poin

ts. E

ntry

to

the

Qui

loto

a se

ctor

is

on

the

Lata

cung

a –

La M

aná

road

. Fro

m P

ujilí

, hea

d fo

r Zu

mba

hua

whe

re t

here

is a

road

to

the

crat

er. T

o ge

t to

Ilin

izas

, fr

om t

he P

anam

eric

an t

ake

a de

tour

wes

t fo

r six

kilo

met

ers

to

the

sout

h of

Mac

hach

i, th

en s

even

kilo

met

ers

until

Cha

upi.

Ther

e is

als

o an

off

ice

for t

he re

serv

e in

Sig

chos

.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$2.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

10.0

0

8h00

- 1

7h00

Mar

co J

ácom

e 03

2 81

2 76

8, L

atac

unga

Ilini

zas

Ecol

ogic

al R

eser

ve

Ther

e ar

e a

num

ber o

f acc

ess

poin

ts a

long

sec

onda

ry ro

ads.

One

is t

he o

ld S

alce

do –

Ten

a hi

ghw

ay, t

owar

d th

e An

teoj

os

Lago

ons.

Anot

her i

s th

e Pí

llaro

– P

oaló

– P

isay

ambo

road

, pa

ssin

g th

roug

h th

e co

ntro

l poi

nt a

t Zu

nfop

amba

. The

thi

rd

clas

s Pa

tate

– P

oatú

road

lead

s to

the

Púl

pito

mou

ntai

n. T

he

trav

eler

can

als

o w

alk

thre

e ho

urs

from

El T

riunf

o. F

rom

the

ea

st, a

cces

s is

by

way

of t

he T

ena

– La

Ser

ena

road

, fol

low

ing

the

Jatu

nyac

u Ri

ver f

or t

hree

kilo

met

ers.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$1.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

5.00

08h0

0 –

18h0

0, P

isay

ambo

and

Ant

eojo

s ac

cess

poi

nts

Orle

y O

choa

03

2 52

1 55

5 / 0

95 5

31 8

10, A

mba

to

Llan

gana

tes

Nat

iona

l Par

k

The

Pana

mer

ican

Hig

hway

from

Am

bato

to

Riob

amba

runs

pa

ralle

l to

the

rese

rve.

Fro

m h

ere,

tak

e th

e sc

enic

Sig

sipa

mba

–

Cuat

ro E

squi

nas

– Ru

ta d

e lo

s H

iele

ros.

Acce

ss is

als

o vi

a th

e Ri

obam

ba –

Gua

rand

a ro

ad, b

y w

ay o

f Pul

ingu

í and

Ta

mbo

huas

ca. O

n th

e w

est,

the

Amba

to –

Gua

rand

a ro

ad

cros

ses

the

rese

rve;

the

ent

ranc

e po

int

is t

he C

ruz

del A

rena

l.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$2.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

10.0

0

08h0

0 -

17h0

0

Alon

so B

urgo

s 03

2 61

0 02

9, R

ioba

mba

Chim

bora

zo F

auna

Pr

oduc

tion

Rese

rve

Loca

ted

29 k

ilom

eter

s fr

om C

uenc

a on

the

Mol

letu

ro a

nd

Nar

anja

l roa

d. T

he b

us t

o G

uaya

quil

that

goe

s th

roug

h M

olle

turo

tak

es a

n ho

ur t

o ge

t to

the

vis

itors

’ cen

ter o

n To

read

ora

Lago

on. T

he s

outh

ern

acce

ss, o

n th

e Cu

enca

– A

ngas

ro

ad, b

y w

ay o

f Sol

dado

s, is

a m

ore

diff

icul

t ro

ute.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$1.

50Fo

reig

ners

: US$

10.0

0

08h0

0 -

16h0

0

Osw

aldo

Enc

alad

a 07

2 82

6 50

1 / 0

72 3

70 1

27, C

uenc

a

Caja

s N

atio

nal P

ark

This

is t

he s

outh

ernm

ost

of t

he P

ANE

area

s. Fr

om t

he w

est,

acce

ss is

via

the

Loj

a –

Mal

acat

os ro

ad t

o Ca

janu

ma,

from

w

hich

it is

eig

ht k

ilom

eter

s to

the

Adm

inis

trat

ive

Cent

er. F

rom

th

ere,

a 1

5 ki

lom

eter

wal

k le

ads

to t

he C

ompa

dre

Lago

ons.

Mor

e to

the

sou

th t

here

is a

n ac

cess

to

the

Tole

do p

eak,

from

Ya

ngan

a. T

he L

oja

– Za

mor

a ro

ute

cros

ses

the

nort

hern

sec

tion

of t

he p

ark,

with

tou

rist

deve

lopm

ent

in S

an F

ranc

isco

ad

min

iste

red

by t

he A

rco

Iris

Foun

datio

n. T

he lo

wer

par

t is

re

ache

d fr

om Z

amor

a, v

ia t

he R

omer

illos

and

Bom

busc

aro

road

s. An

othe

r acc

ess

poin

t is

from

Vilc

abam

ba g

oing

tow

ard

El P

atio

, at

17 k

ilom

eter

s. Fr

om V

alla

dolid

, the

El P

orve

nir,

Loyo

la, N

umba

la, a

nd Q

uebr

ada

Hon

da s

ecto

rs c

an b

e vi

site

d.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$2.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

10.0

0

Atte

ntio

n 24

hou

rs.

Sant

os C

alde

rón

072

571

534,

Loj

a

Podo

carp

us

Nat

iona

l Par

k

On

wee

kend

s, th

ere

is a

cces

s by

tra

in, l

eavi

ng t

he C

him

baca

lle

Stat

ion

(08h

00),

in t

he s

outh

of Q

uito

. Acc

ess

is a

lso

via

the

Pana

mer

ican

, whe

re t

here

is a

dirt

road

runn

ing

east

at

kilo

met

er 6

0 fr

om Q

uito

.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$2.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

10.0

0In

clud

es e

ntra

nce

fee

for t

he C

otop

axi N

atio

nal P

ark

08h0

0 -

17h0

0Lu

is C

eval

los

032

812

768,

Lat

acun

ga

El B

olic

he N

atio

nal

Recr

eatio

n Ar

ea

Loca

ted

50 k

ilom

eter

s sou

thea

st o

f Qui

to. A

mon

g ac

cess

road

s are

: Q

uito

– P

inta

g –

Mic

acoc

ha, t

o th

e hi

ghla

nds o

f Ant

isana

(per

miss

ion

from

the

owne

r of t

he h

acie

nda

on th

e ro

ute

mus

t be

obta

ined

); Co

sang

a –

Las C

auch

eras

, unt

il th

e Co

sang

a Ri

ver.

At th

e sh

rine

of

the

Virg

in o

f Gua

cam

ayos

, 30

min

utes

from

Bae

za a

nd a

n ho

ur fr

om

Tena

, the

re is

a c

ontr

ol a

nd a

cces

s tra

ils. I

n th

e Ta

mbo

Val

ley,

in

Papa

llact

a, tr

ails

begi

n th

at c

limb

to th

e Do

min

guin

a La

goon

and

An

tisan

a, S

inch

olag

ua, a

nd C

otop

axi.

Alon

g th

e Pi

ntag

– S

an A

lfons

o –

Mue

rtep

ungo

, the

re is

acc

ess t

o th

e M

uert

epun

go L

agoo

n.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$1.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

5.00

Ther

e is

no

sche

dule

. The

con

trol

at

the

haci

enda

acc

ess

toAn

tisan

a cl

oses

, for

ent

ry a

nd e

xit,

at 1

8h00

.

Patr

icio

Tac

o 06

2 32

0 60

5, B

aeza

Antis

ana

Ecol

ogic

al R

eser

ve

Prot

ecte

d ar

ea(a

nd r

oute

s go

ing

thro

ugh

the

area

)H

ow t

o ge

t th

ere

Fees

*, sc

hedu

les

and

cont

acts

On

the

nort

hern

fla

nk o

f th

e lo

w b

asin

of

the

Agua

rico

Riv

er. F

rom

Q

uito

, dai

ly b

uses

mak

e th

e tr

ip t

o La

go A

grio

in s

even

to

ten

hour

s. F

rom

the

re, a

noth

er b

us t

o El

Car

men

por

t ar

rive

s in

thr

ee

hour

s at

the

Cuy

aben

o br

idge

, fro

m w

hich

a c

anoe

can

be

take

n al

ong

the

Cuya

beno

Riv

er. A

cces

s is

als

o vi

a th

e Ag

uari

co R

iver

, w

ith

a lo

nger

boa

t ri

de.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$5.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

20.0

0

08h0

0 -

17h0

0

Luis

Bor

bor

062

360

047,

Tar

apoa

Cuya

beno

Fau

na

Prod

uctio

n Re

serv

e

On

the

east

ern

flank

s of

the

sout

hern

And

es. T

here

are

two

acce

ss

poin

ts o

n th

e Q

uito

– P

apal

lact

a –

Baez

a ro

ad; t

he fi

rst i

s in

the

sect

or

know

n as

La

Virg

en, i

n th

e so

uthw

est o

f the

rese

rve;

the

othe

r is

via

Papa

llact

a –

Oya

cach

i. To

use

that

road

, per

mis

sion

of t

he M

unic

ipal

Po

tabl

e W

ater

Off

ice

of Q

uito

is re

quire

d. L

eavi

ng th

e Ca

yam

be –

O

yaca

chi r

oad

and

follo

win

g th

e ro

ad to

Olm

edo,

the

visi

tor g

ets

to

the

San

Mar

cos

Lago

on. O

ther

ent

ry p

oint

s vi

a El

Rev

enta

dor o

r Lu

mba

qui r

equi

re e

xper

ienc

ed g

uide

s. Ac

cess

to th

e no

rthe

ast s

ecto

r is

avai

labl

e by

way

of t

he C

ofán

com

mun

ity o

f Sin

angü

e.

Ecua

doria

n: U

S$2.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

10.0

0

Mon

day

to F

riday

, 07h

00 -

18h

00

Luis

Mar

tínez

(hig

h ar

ea)

022

110

370,

Cay

ambe

Jaci

nto

Villa

real

(low

are

a)

062

818

183,

Lag

o Ag

rio

Caya

mbe

-Coc

a Ec

olog

ical

Res

erve

This

is t

he h

eart

of t

he E

cuad

oria

n Am

azon

. Dai

ly b

uses

leav

e Q

uito

fo

r Coc

a. F

rom

the

re, v

isito

rs t

rave

l dow

nriv

er a

long

the

Nap

o, w

here

it

is p

ossi

ble

to t

ake

a tr

ibut

ary,

such

as

the

Tipu

tini o

r the

Yas

uní.

Acce

ss is

als

o th

roug

h Añ

angu

tow

ard

Añan

guco

cha.

By

land

, fro

m

the

Pom

peya

con

trol

poi

nt, a

cces

s is

via

oil

road

s op

ened

in t

he p

ark.

Th

ese

road

s le

ad t

o tw

o sc

ient

ific

stat

ions

, as

wel

l as

to v

ario

us

Wao

rani

com

mun

ities

. Per

mis

sion

from

the

oil

com

pany

is re

quire

d.

From

Coc

a, t

ake

the

Auca

Roa

d, e

nter

ing

by w

ay o

f the

Shi

ripun

o,

Tigü

ino,

or T

iput

ini R

iver

s. To

get

to

the

Cura

ray

Rive

r, ta

ke a

sm

all

plan

e in

Puy

o to

Lor

ocac

hi, P

avac

achi

, or S

an J

osé.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$2.

00

Fore

igne

rs: U

S$10

.00

Cam

ping

: US$

3.00

Añan

guco

cha:

US$

5.00

Ube

lden

Far

ías

062

881

850,

Coc

a

Yasu

ní

Nat

iona

l Par

k

Loca

ted

on t

he e

aste

rn fl

anks

of t

he A

ndes

, bet

wee

n th

e Pa

staz

a an

d Pa

ute

river

s. Th

e G

uam

ote

– M

acas

road

cro

sses

the

par

k fr

om

east

to

wes

t, go

ing

thro

ugh

Atill

o an

d O

zogo

che.

To

the

sout

hwes

t, ac

cess

is t

hrou

gh E

l Tam

bo a

nd In

gapi

rca,

hik

ing

the

Kapa

kñán

. Th

ere

are

also

sec

onda

ry ro

ads

that

pro

vide

acc

ess

at A

lao

and

La

Cand

elar

ia, o

n th

e w

ay t

o El

Alta

r and

San

gay.

On

the

flank

s of

Tu

ngur

ahua

, acc

ess

is v

ia B

años

. To

go t

o Sa

rdin

ayac

u, t

ake

the

Mac

as -

Puy

o ro

ad t

o Sa

nta

Rosa

and

, fro

m t

here

, to

Gua

pú a

nd

Play

a Sa

n Lu

is. A

four

hou

r wal

k ta

kes

you

to t

he la

goon

s.

THE

ROUT

E OF

TH

E SP

ONDY

LUS.

Thi

s sc

enic

itin

erar

y, a

sect

ion

of w

hich

was

form

erly

kno

wn

as th

e Su

n Ro

ute,

go

es th

roug

h al

l of E

cuad

or’s

beac

hes

and

neig

hbor

ing

popu

latio

n ce

nter

s, fr

om th

e no

rth

of E

smer

alda

s to

the

sout

h of

the

coun

try.

The

rout

e ta

kes

its n

ame

from

the

Spon

dylu

s, a

shel

l fis

h us

ed a

s cu

rren

cy b

y th

e an

cien

t in

habi

tant

s of

the

Ecua

doria

n co

ast.

YAKU

ÑAM

BY o

r TH

E W

ATER

ROU

TE. T

his

rout

e in

clud

es

the

varie

d an

d su

rpris

ing

natu

ral a

nd c

ultu

ral c

harm

s of

Am

azon

ian

Ecua

dor.

It is

nam

ed th

us b

ecau

se o

f the

ec

olog

ical

impo

rtan

ce o

f wat

er a

nd it

s in

timat

e re

latio

n w

ith in

dige

nous

nat

iona

litie

s of

the

larg

est w

ater

shed

w

ith th

e gr

eate

st q

uant

ity o

f wat

er in

the

wor

ld. I

n a

larg

e pa

rt o

f the

Am

azon

, the

rive

rs re

mai

n th

e m

ost

impo

rtan

t mea

ns o

f sus

tena

nce

and

tran

spor

t.

THE

MID

DLE

OF

THE

WO

RLD

TRAI

N R

OU

TE. T

he

lege

ndar

y ra

ilway

, the

sig

natu

re p

roje

ct o

f Elo

y Al

faro

, w

as, d

urin

g its

bet

ter y

ears

, the

mos

t im

port

ant a

xis

of c

omm

unic

atio

n an

d co

mm

erce

in th

e co

untr

y. N

ow

it tr

avel

s th

roug

h la

ndsc

apes

and

pop

ulat

ion

cent

ers

alon

g fo

ur m

ajor

rout

es: T

ambo

-Coy

octo

r, Ib

arra

-Sa

linas

, Qui

to-L

atac

unga

, and

Rio

bam

ba-A

laus

í-Si

bam

be, w

hich

incl

udes

the

mos

t spe

ctac

ular

str

etch

: la

Nar

iz d

el D

iabl

o (t

he D

evil’

s N

ose)

.

The

vario

us p

rote

cted

are

as in

clud

ed in

the

PAN

E ar

e pa

rt o

f a n

umbe

r of

tour

ism r

oute

s, a

stra

tegy

of

the

Min

istry

of

Tour

ism t

o en

cour

age

Ecua

doria

n an

d fo

reig

n vi

sitor

s to

take

the

entir

e ro

ute.

The

y in

clud

e:

THE

ROUT

E OF

THE

LIB

ERAT

OR. G

oes t

hrou

gh th

e m

ost

impo

rtan

t citi

es a

nd p

oint

s of i

nter

ests

on

Sim

ón B

olív

ar’s

trav

els t

hrou

gh th

e co

untr

y be

fore

and

dur

ing

the

inde

pend

ence

stru

ggle

, exp

lorin

g th

e fa

cts o

f Bol

ívar

’s pe

rson

ality

in th

e co

ntex

t of t

he la

ndsc

apes

he

frequ

ente

d.

THE

ROU

TE O

F TH

E VO

LCAN

OES

. Thi

s sp

ecta

cula

r av

enue

goe

s th

roug

h th

e An

des,

and

incl

udes

mor

e th

an 7

0 vo

lcan

oes

from

Car

chi t

o Lo

ja. S

ome

of t

hese

, th

e hi

ghes

t, ha

ve s

now

-cov

ered

pea

ks t

hrou

ghou

t th

e ye

ar a

nd a

ll re

pres

ent

inco

mpa

rabl

e at

trac

tions

for

hike

rs a

nd m

ount

ain

clim

bers

.

Ecua

doria

ns: U

S$2.

00Fo

reig

ners

: US$

10.0

0

Inte

rpre

tatio

n Ce

nter

in M

acas

Mon

day

to F

riday

, 08h

00 –

17h

00 M

igue

l Acu

ña (u

pper

are

a)

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610

029,

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bam

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on t

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of t

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apo

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r, 50

kilo

met

ers

dow

nriv

er

from

Coc

a. A

cces

s is

pos

sibl

e vi

a a

thre

e-ho

ur t

rip a

long

the

Nap

o Ri

ver t

o Po

mpe

ya, w

here

the

re is

a t

rail

that

goe

s to

Lim

onco

cha.

Ac

cess

is a

lso

via

the

Shus

hufin

di –

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peya

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ost

rese

rves

, the

re a

re d

isco

unts

for

chi

ldre

n, o

lder

adu

lts, a

nd p

erso

ns w

ith h

andi

caps

. In

som

e, t

here

is a

spe

cial

gro

up r

ate.

Prot

ecte

d ar

ea(a

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oute

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thro

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acts

Tips for

responsible tourism

n the midst of the severe environmental crisisthe planet is experiencing, tourism is one alter-

native for creating a sustainable economy and amore harmonious world for all living beings.However, many tourist practices also cause seri-ous environmental impacts. Below, we offerpractical recommendations so that your next tripwill have less impact on the place visited:

Do research on the environment, the traditions, and the culture of the sites you plan to visit.

Choose operators and hotels that practice equity: between men and women; communi-ties and private property owners; employees and employers; the human being and thenatural environment.

Travel light. Forget packaged products, non-biodegradable soaps, and bottled water.

Travel slow. Walk a lot, pedal, and row. Avoid the use of cars and boats with motors.

Respect traditions, cultures, and beliefs, including those you do not share. Find out whatpractices have a sacred or intimate meaning, and what is the behavior expected of touristsvis-à-vis said practices.

Pay attention to the practices of the sites you stay at. Are garbage and waste waters man-aged? How are water and energy saved? Does the architecture have an impact on the land-scape? Have former inhabitants been forced to leave the area?

Remember that long showers, excessive washing of sheets and towels, and large swimmingpools consume a lot of water, and this might be scarce in the region.

Try to eat local, in-season foods. This supports the economy of the area and saves energyon transport and preservation.

Find out if the season for fishing or hunting of specific species is closed, and what speciesare threatened before exploring the gastronomy of the area.

Remember that buying wild animals or archaeological pieces is a crime.

When diving or snorkeling, do not collect shells or damage coral reefs as these take a lotof time to grow.

Never light a fire without taking appropriate precautions. Surround the fire with stones ormake a shallow hole in the ground; do not light a fire in windy areas and make sure thatit is completely out before leaving.

Tell people about your trip and recommend the most responsible places.

I

Coordination: Juan FreileTexts: Pía Hernández and Juan FreileEditor: Andrés VallejoDesign: Esteban GarcésMaps: Susana Crespo y Pablo CabreraCorrection of texts: Grace SigüenzaTranslation: Mary Ellen FiewegerReview, Ministry of Tourism: Rodrigo Salas, Promotion/Publicity Officeand Mónica Burbano Montalvo, Development and Facilitation OfficeTrademark use review: Sofía Bustos, Strategic Marketing Office

Reviewed by the Ministry of the Environment

Photo creditsJorge J. Anhalzer / Archivo Criollo: cover (Cotopaxi, ceibo, rafting), pages 5, 10, 17, 18,

20, 23, 24, 25, 28, 33, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 43, 45, 55, 64, 69 (rafting, ceibo)

Andrés Vallejo: cover (sunset), 16, 19, 32, 48, 50, 51, 73 (canoes)

Roberto Espinosa: 2, 34, 59, 60, 61, 68, 74

Murray Cooper: 46, 47, 58

Felipe Vallejo: 8, 11, 72

Francisco Caizapanta / Ministry of Tourism: 31, 69 (cyclist)

Instituto Nazca: 69 (starfish), 73 (crabs)

Ivan Kashinsky: 12, 15

Pete Oxford / Archivo Criollo: 22 (frailejones), 54

Sebastián Crespo / Ministry of Tourism: 70

Michael Dammer: 44

José Donoso / FMPT Archive: 29

Karla Gachet: 14

Robert Gibson: 42

Pablo Larrea: inside cover

Luis Mazariegos: 22 (hummingbird)

Joaquín Oyhanarte: 75

Manuel Guerra: 30

Alfonso Tandazo / Ministry of Tourism: 65

Jorge Vinueza: 35

This document may be cited in the following way:Ecuador Terra Incognita, 2010, Ecuador:Tourism in protected areas, Ministry of Tourism, Quito

© Ministry of Tourism of Ecuador 2010

TOUR I SM I NPROT EC T EDAREAS

Av. Eloy Alfaro N32-300 y Carlos Tobar Quito – Ecuador

Telephones: (593 2) 2507 560 / 555 / 559 Fax: (593 2) 2507 565

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