edible Baja Arizona - January/February 2015

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No. 10 January/F

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A Gastronomy of Place: 4,000 Years of Food Heritage Iskashitaa Gleans Tucson Bisbee's Caf Roka Organics for All

January/February 2015 Issue No. 10 GRATIS

Celebrating the foodways of Tucson and the borderlands.Celebrating the foodways of Tucson and the borderlands.Celebrating the foodways of Tucson and the borderlands.Celebrating the foodways of Tucson and the borderlands.

January/February 2015 Issue No. 10 GRATISJanuary/February 2015 Issue No. 10 GRATISJanuary/February 2015 Issue No. 10 GRATIS

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On the cover and above: Photo and arrangement by Bill and Athena Steen. Seeds courtesy of Native Seeds/SEARCH. From left to right: Tarahumara Bordal Runner Bean, Tarahumara Sitakame Bean, Calico Lima Bean, Chapalote Popcorn, Tarahumara Star Bean, Peasco Cheese Squash, San Carlos Apache Wild Devils Claw, Chiltepin, Tohono Oodham Uus Mu:n Cowpea, Hopi Yellow Sikya Hatiko Lima, Tarahumara Sitakame Bean, Tarahumara Maiz Azul Flour Corn, Tarahumara Bordal Runner Bean, Mountain Pima Burro y Caballito, Bisbee Black Cowpea, Hopi Red Pala Hatiko Lima Bean, Guarijio Dipper Gourd, Guarijio Red Sweet Corn, Tarahumara Sitakame Bean, Hopi Black Dye Sunflower, Chiltepin, Hopi Purple String Bean

Features 96 A GASTRONOMY OF PLACE

Reimagining Baja Arizonas food future by peering into its past.

130 GLEANING TUCSONThrough Iskashitaa Refugee Network, refugees from across the world not only recapture food that would otherwise go to waste, they also connect to their new community.

ContentsJanuary - February 2015

6 COYOTE TALKING

8 VOICESWe asked students at the University of Arizona: What do you want to see changed about food on campus?

9 GLEANINGS

18 THE HUNGRIEST FOODIE

23 THE PLATE

27 KIDS MENUHailes Healthy Swaps.

31 EDIBLE HOMESTEAD

42 FARM REPORT

48 IN THE BUSINESSRebecca and Scott Saffords Tap & Bottle is the place where everybody knows your nameor at least your favorite beer.

54 ARTISANRestoring the classic appliances that once populated our kitchens.

62 POLICYSchool lunches get a much-needed makeover.

68 FOOD TRUCKThe Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountains Roadrunner food truck offers resort food at food-truck prices.

76 PROCESSAt Patagonia Orchards, Phil Ostrom and Sherry Luna are going beyond just distributing organic produce.

86 TABLECaf Roka turns 22 years old this month.

108 RECIPEThe Ark of Taste is a celebration and living catalog of regionally distinctive foods facing extinction.

114 MEET YOUR FARMERGoing behind the scenes of an organic Wholesum Harvest tomato reveals a finely crafted feat of science.

124 TABLEEating organic before organic was cool, Steve and Renee Kreager have been putting pure food on Tucson tables since 2005.

148 BUZZPlaza Liquors has figured out how to outsmart big-box retailers.

162 FORK IN THE ROADExploring Chihuahuas little-known distilled spirit, sotol.

170 INK

174 SOURCE GUIDE

186 LAST BITE

edible Baja Arizona 5


EDITOR AND PUBLISHERDouglas Biggers

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHERJared R. McKinley

MANAGING EDITORMegan Kimble

ART DIRECTORSteve McMackin

SENIOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORGary Paul Nabhan

DESIGNERLyric Peate

COPY EDITORFord Burkhart

PROOFREADERCharity Whiting

ACCOUNT MANAGERKaty Gierlach

ADVERTISING CONSULTANTSDhyana Wasson, Carl Falwell,Kenny Stewart

INTERNNicole Thill

CONTRIBUTORSVanessa Barch eld, Laurel Bellante, Rene Downing, Bryan Eichhorst, Merrill Eisenberg, Molly Kincaid, Shelley Littin, Bobby Long, Lourdes Medrano, Rachel Mindell, Jennifer Nalewicki, Molly Patrick, Steve Renzi, Bill Steen, Eric Swedlund, Haile Thomas, Eric Van Meter, Alfr edo Va, Jr.

PHOTOGRAPHERS & ARTISTSJackie Alpers, Gretchen Baer, Dominic AZ Bonuccelli, Stephen Eginoire, Liora K, Danny Martin, Addie Mannan, Steven Meckler, Molly Patrick, Bridget Shanahan, Je Smith, Bill Steen

DISTRIBUTIONCarson Davenport, Royce Davenport,Mel Meijas, Shiloh Thread-Waist Walkosak, Steve & Anne Bell Anderson

WED LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU.307 S. Convent Ave., Barrio ViejoTucson, Arizona [email protected] EdibleBajaArizona.com

Volume 2, Issue 4. Edible Baja Arizona(ISSN 2374-345X) is published six times annually by Coyote Talking, LLC. Subscriptions are available for $36 annually by phone or at EdibleBajaArizona.com. Copyright 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without the express written permission of the Publisher. Member of the Association of Edible Publishers (AEP).

edibleBAJA ARIZONA

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COYOTE TALKING

MOST OF US who live in Tucson spend an inordinate amount of time on what I call the grid, the maze of streets that we traverse on a daily basis. Do you ever fi nd yourself waiting at yet another intersection and stopping to think, You know, its amazing that I live in a sprawling desert city that has a 4,000-year history of agricultural cultivation and a deep culinary heritage, a city once an oasis self-su cient in food?

Well, you just might after reading Megan Kimbles story A Gastronomy of Place, where she traces the long history of Tucsons food heritage, from the ancient Ho-hokam farmers who tilled fi elds along the Santa Cruz River for thousands of years, to the arrival of the Europeans including the Jesuit missionary Eusebio Kino in 1692, to the contributions of Chinese immigrants in the late 1880s, to the revival of traditional indigenous crops by Tohono Oodham farmers in the 1970s, to the creation of the three-day celebration of Tucsons glorious multicultural strands in the annual festival Tucson Meet Yourself. But in the end, you might want to ponder the important lessons we can draw from our agricultural and cultural past as we attempt to create a sustainable food system in an age of climate and resource uncertainty.

Tucsons nonprofi t organization Iskashitaathe word means working cooperative-ly together in Somaliworks with more than 30 local groups of immigrants from as many ethnic backgrounds to connect them with familiar foods from their homelands. They do this through an ingenious program of gleaning, harvesting fruits and vegetables from all over the city that would otherwise go to waste.

In separate stories, we introduce you to Patagonia Orchards and Wholesum Har-vest, innovative companies that are working to make organic produce widely available at a reasonable cost. At produce distributor Patagonia Orchards, the owners and the farmers they work with see the fi elds and orchards they till as part of the land and waters around them. Wholesum Harvest is using cutting-edge greenhouse technolo-gies to produce organic tomatoes that are shipped all over the United States. As Laurel Bellante notes in her story: A food-production process creates a ripple e ect in the human, environmental, and political economic context connected to how we eat. Two fascinating food system players in Baja Arizona.

Bisbees Caf Roka is almost an anomaly. For 22 years, Rod Kass and Sally Holcomb have managed to maintain a restaurant on the historic mining towns main street that is dependably excellent, satisfying, and overwhelmingly popular with locals and tourists alike. And in the process, theyve created an extended family of longtime employees and have contributed immeasurably to the small community. A longtime Roka waitress, Gretchen Baer, aka Paintress Gretchen, is one of Bisbees most beloved artists and contributed fantastic oil paintings to illustrate the story. Thanks, Gretchen!

In a story about a little local business that could, Mark Thomsons Plaza Liquors and Fine Wines has fi gured out a way to outsmart big-box retailers and keep custom-ers coming back for more than 30 years. Whats his secret?

And at Renees Organic Oven, for nearly a decade Steve and Renee Kreager, the co-owners, have built a business based on educating their customers about the ecosys-tem of Baja Arizona farmers, ranchers, beekeepers, brewers, wine-makers, cheese- and ice cream-makers, co ee roasters, tea importers, and other organic merchants, all of whom are supported by their patronage.

Theres much, much more to enjoy and discover in this 10th issue. And please check out our house ad on Page 174 inviting you to participate in our

fi rst Reader Survey. Wed love to know more about our readers, and were o ering a slew of incredible prizes to entice you to spend a few minutes online answering some questions. Thanks!

Happy New Year! Well see you around the table. Salud!

Douglas Biggers, editor and publisher

Happy New Year! Well see you around the table.

Douglas Biggers, editor and publisher



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VOICESVOICES

We asked students at the University of Arizona:What do you want to see changed about food on campus?

Photography by Dominic AZ Bonuccelli


I work as part of a Smart Moves initiative on campus. A dietician analyzes recipes, and if it fits our nutritional criteria, the food gets our symbol next to itI wish more people knew about it. Also, itd be helpful if the prices were lower for these healthier options because they tend to be more expensive.

Tiffany DoggettJunior, Nutritional Science & Dietetics

We have a garden on High-land. Itd be cool to expand the gardengive students the opportunity to pick their own food. We have so many spaceswe could plant edible fruit trees.

Kashja IlerSenior, Environmental Science

I think the menus should show calorie counts. A lot of people need to eat more calories to gain weight or reduce calories to lose it, but they dont know how to calculate thatso itd be instead of guessing. And itd highlight healthy options.

Jenna HaggertySenior, Care, Health, & Society

Id like to see more attention to different diets. Im a veg-etarian, and a lot of the stuff offered on campus isnt really available to me. Undergrads are exploring who they want to be, and a big part of that is deciding the foods they want to eat.

Madeline RyderSenior, Conservation Biology

The restaurants that have actual meals arent really open on the weekends. I really want grilled chicken, but I havent found a place that has it regularly.

Jaden JohnsonFreshman, Physics

Itd be cool to see more local food on campus and offered on the meal plan. To see that the campus is supporting the local economy, to see students be more involved in stuff thats happening here in Tucson. So much exciting stuff is happen-ing and I feel like were kind of removed from that.

Ariana MansonSophomore, Biochemistry and Molecular & Cellular Biology

Id like to see more sustain-able, local things. A lot of our restaurants are chains. Id like to see local options. Id been hassling the Student Union about changing back to com-postable takeout containers. But of course, there are a lot of logistical constraints.

Nicholas HaveyJunior, Philosophy, Spanish, & Portuguese

We have a lot of ingenuity happening herewith LEAF, for example [Linking Edible Arizona Forests]. Everyone knows that there are meal plans. But not everyone knows that we harvested olives. That students harvest mesquite. Theres so much more we could do.

Emily Marderness Freshman, Undeclared

The first thing is having healthier options open later. Especially on the weekends, they arent openso youre limited to fast food or chicken tenders. Park Student Union has a salad bar, but they close pretty early.

Emily FlinkFreshman, Physiology

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Id like to have more raw produce to cook with. Its hard to find. Some students find the time to cook, and want to do it. Id prefer to make my own stuff out of simple ingredients than eat something in a package.

Taylor SandersJunior, Agronomy

We need food that is not only healthy for the people consum-ing it, but also for the people growing it. Sustainable produc-tion of food needs to be taken into consideration when the Student Union sets up purchasing contracts. The U of A needs to sell food thats priced at rates comparable for other grocery stores so that students with not as much money have access to healthy, sustainable options.

Katie MarascioSenior, Environmental Science, Land, and Water



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gleanings

Mushroom Season in the Old PuebloIn Baja Arizona, winter is mushroom season.

By Shelley Littin | Photography by Steve McMackin

Nicole Devito and Andrew Carhuff show off a freshly harvested bounty of locally grown mushrooms.

As winter descends, cool winds drifting down canyons relieve the heat, ripple through cottonwood leaves, and stir flowing water. On the edge of Aravaipa Creek, Andrew Carhuff and his partner Nicole Devitothe owners of Old Pueblo Mushroom Growerscultivate their crop.

From October to March, Arizona temperatures are nearly perfect for growing mushrooms.

We have a very long season compared to other places in the country where mushrooms have to be heated in wintertime, Carhuff said.

Carhuff has grown mushrooms as a hobby for years, wher-ever I had space, he said. In May, Carhuff and Devito expanded their hobby to a five-acre farm near Aravaipa Canyon.

Our goal is to turn our mushroom operation into a diver-sified farm with mushrooms as one of the main crops, and use the compost from mushroom production to grow other crops, Carhuff said. We have really nice land, water, and good soil.

The pair grow mainly oyster mushrooms, selected because of their tolerance for a wide range of temperatures.

Mushrooms can be grown from spores shed by the adult fun-gus or from tissue clones. Carhuff and Devito use both methods, nurturing their spongy crops in a nutrient-rich mixture of grain and straw packed inside buckets or logs.

Many mushrooms grow well on logs; Carhuff noted that he and Devito plan to experiment with growing shitake mushrooms on the cottonwood logs that adorn their farm.

My goal is to have our mushrooms be as close to wild

mushrooms as possible in terms of flavor and texture, he said. A lot of times the mushrooms you see in the supermarkets are watered-down versions of what youd find in the wild.

For their watery consistency, mushrooms pack a sizeable amount of nutrition. A source of protein and selenium, mush-rooms may help to lower cholesterol. They are also high in vitamin D.

When sunlight hits mushrooms they produce vitamin D the same as humans do, Carhuff explained. A lot of people think mushrooms grow in the dark, but the best conditions are filtered light.

Carhuff journeys into Tucson to showcase his harvest on Sun-days at the Heirloom Farmers Market at Rillito Park, and on Thursdays at the Santa Cruz River Farmers Market.

Carhuff, who has been a chef all his adult life, tells his cus-tomers that fresh mushrooms are best eaten during the first three or four days. He recommends grilling and marinating the larger oyster mushrooms, using them as a substitute for meat, or just sauting them in fresh butter.

Im interested in all things local, seasonal, he said. The simpler, the better.

Carnuff and Devito are looking for volunteers to help cul-tivate and harvest their crops on Mondays and Wednesdays, offering overnight accommodation at their farm for any helpers. Email Carhuff at [email protected], or find him at the farmers market.

Old Pueblo Mushroom Growers. 520.577.6136.



ericA hernAndeZ, a University of Arizona junior majoring in plant sciences and minoring in computer science, is studying how humans might one day grow plants on the moon.

The Prototype Lunar Greenhouse (LGH) program ap-pealed to Hernandez immediately when she applied for a NASA Space Grant Undergraduate Research Internship with Gene Giacomelli, an engineer in the UAs Department of Agriculture and Biosystems Engineering, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. The LGH is a life-size model created and built by Phil Sadler of the Tempe-based Sadler Machine Co.

Funded by the AZ-NASA Ralph Steckler Space Grant Col-onization Research and Technology Development program and housed at the UA Controlled Environment Agriculture Center, the LGH has demonstrated ways of using plants to revitalize air, recycle water and waste, and provide a continuous source of vegetables for the inhabitants of potential future space colo-nization eff orts.

At the LGH, Hernandez has found her passion.Along with fellow undergraduate Connor Osgood, Her-

nandez monitors seedlings, maintains the hydroponic systems used to grow the plants, and rotates new seedlings to ensure a continuous crop.

I also do data collection on various sensors making sure the environment is appropriate for plant growth, she said. Were trying to collect as much data as we can out of this system so that we can determine any relationships between the environ-ment and plant growth.

A plethora of sensors, including live web cameras record-

ing 24/7, monitor environmental conditions inside the sealed chambers.

All kinds of plants are fi t for the moon, Hernandez said, as long as they can be grown using hydroponics. We were giv-en a list of plants by NASA. Weve grown basil, sweet potato, strawberry, cowpeas, and a whole bunch of lettuce. Everything is edible, but we actually dont eat anything because were doing analyses of plant biomass.

This winter, Hernandez is helping to set up the LGHs new Outreach and Teaching Module housed at the UAs Biosphere 2. It will provide a place where people can learn about how plants can potentially be used for food in future space missions, she said. We might even harvest and allow people to eat the crops from that module.

Hernandezs experience at the LGH has provided focus for her own future. If I were able to choose my future, I would hope that I would be able to continue doing research at the Lunar Greenhouse, she said. There are a lot of unanswered questions, areas where we could learn new things about how plants grow using hydroponics. A greenhouse is a really com-plicated system, and solving problems is exciting.

And of course, were hopefully directly contributing to helping people go to space, she added.

The LGH is open to the public, although visitors must be accompanied by a tour guideusually Hernandez.

Call 520.626.9566 to schedule tours of the LGH, or visit B2Science.org. To view the live webcam of LGH chambers, visit ag.a rizona.edu/lunargreenhouse.

How to Make a Meal on the MoonSome plants will grow just about anywhere.

By Shelley Littin

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A window into the people, places, and histories of this region.

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The store is off the beaten path, but its worth the trip.

Visit wnpa.org to learn more about our shows & sales. Open Every Day 10AM5PM

12880 N. Vistoso Village Dr. Tucson, AZ 85755

For more information call 520-622-6014.

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Monday Night ShowtimeProper hosts new Market Monday menus.

By Shelley Littin

whAt if you only bought your food locally, farm-fresh, and constrained your cooking to whatever crops were in season? Would you become bored by the climatic limitations on the menu? Or could you find some-thing new, something exciting to make for dinner every week?

Kris Vrolyk, executive chef at Proper Restaurant, asked ex-actly this question. Out of his query came the idea to prepare a menu using only ingredients from local farmers markets.

My goal is really to showcase the farmers, and let people know that this is your option, Vrolyk said. If you choose to shop this way, youre going to be more impactful on the region, and youre really going to have a better sense of community.

People need to know the difference between what they can find in the supermarket and whats coming from the ground beneath their feet, he said.

On the first Monday of every month, Proper hosts Market Mondays alongside its regular menu. On a reservation-only basis, Vrolyk serves a diverse assembly of guests gathered around a common table a three-course meal prepared fresh from whatever he could scrounge up at the farmers market the day before.

Sunday morning Im at the market 8 to 11 oclock trying to figure out what Im going to do, Vrolyk said.

The menu is always a surprise, he said. I dont want return-ing guests to have the same experience every time. I want them to come here and ask, What is going to happen? Whats going to come out of the kitchen?

Vrolyk admitted the endeavor can be intimidating. Its re-ally difficult to come up with a new, interesting menu based on

ingredients that you found at the market. Sunday you buy stuff and Monday night, its showtime.

Along with long-time friend Justin Lightsey, Vrolyk preps his creations day-of for Monday night guests. A lot of it is off-the-cuff cooking, he admitted. It makes for a great chal-lenge.

The Kentucky-born chef has worked in downtown restau-rants from his home state to Florida, Wyoming, California, and finally Baja Arizona.

From state to state, he has noted how farmers markets have taken off in recent years, with more new markets springing up all over the country. This isnt hype, this is not a trend, Vrolyk said. This is something that children are involved in now.

Initially slow to take off, ever more of the Tucson commu-nity is now attending Market Mondays. Novembers event saw Gabby Giffords and Mark Kelly seated at Propers table for the local-themed, seasonal feast.

Im cooking for that adventurous person who wants to be updated with whats happening in the region, whats growing, and where they can get it, Vrolyk added, noting that he is happy to discuss recipes and ingredients with guests who are curious about the content and preparation of their meal.

I dont think that cooking should be a mystery or a secret, he said. Its too cool to keep to yourself.

Proper Restaurant. 300 E. Congress St. 520.396.3357. ProperTucson.com.

Shelley Littin is a science journalist and anthropologist. She spends her free time running unreasonable distances in beautiful places.

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In the Hood

I trAVeL all over Baja Arizona. And I eat. But just a few blocks from the Edible Baja Arizona offi ce in Barrio Vie-jo, Tucson, at the Five Points intersection, a pair of busi-nesses are making a lasting impression on our dining culture.

5 Points Market & Restaurant serves up delicious food and works hard to source from local

farms. They also have a handy market for people living in the neighborhood. Id been wanting to hit up their weekly Taco Tuesday for awhileI can never get enough tacos. Finally,

one sunny Tuesday afternoon, my girlfriend and I found ourselves

there: Katy got the calabacitas tacos and I got the blackened bird (chicken) tacos. Served with local greens, beans, rice, and guacamole, this is a perfect lunch. The Taco Tuesday menu changes from week to week, depending on what produce is available. 5 Points is already a staple for those in the area; call it The Time Market of Barrio Viejo and Armory Park. 756 S. Stone Ave. 520.623.3888. 5PointsTucson.com.

Next door to 5 Points Market, you might catch wafts of a more exotic sortthe Ethiopian piquancy of Caf Desta. Ethiopian cuisine has the alluring, pungent spiciness of Indian food, but is heartier. This is not a meal you eat alone. Food is ordered and consumed communally. Each item ordered is piled onto a communal plate, on top of a sourdough-fer-mented, spongy fl atbread called injera, which is usually about the size of a large pizza. The injera bread is made from a grain called teff , which is an annual lovegrass (Eragrostis tef) native to Ethiopia. Use extra injera to swipe up bitesno utensils are used. This is a great meal for a couple or large group. There are many vegan options available, too. 758 S. Stone Ave. 520.370.7000. CafeDesta.com.

Working with Edible Baja Arizona, I spend a lot of time at

and works hard to source from local farms. They also have a handy

market for people living in

wanting to hit up their weekly



farmers markets. If you havent yet been to the Heirloom Farmers Market at Rillito Park on Sunday, you should check out their new pavilion. This market is becoming more than just a place to get groceriesits a pleasant way to spend a Sunday. Music, entertainment, food trucks, chef demos, and more totally alter the shopping experience. And all this while supporting local, small businesses and getting quality ingredients made or grown with care. 4502 N. First Ave. HeirloomFM.com.

Recently while at the farmers market, I visited one of my favorite food trucks in Baja Arizona. Twisted Tandoor uses incredibly fresh ingredients. The fl avor of their dishes, and

accompanying chutneys and sauces, brings eating into a higher, more artistic plane.

Most of us grew up eating grilled cheese sandwiches. But Twisted Tandoor takes this staple kids meal and makes it adult and gour-met. They start with the bread: grilled Texas toast, making sure to scorch the cuts, so every bite has the wonderful tongue feel a grilled cheese should have. Piled

inside is cheese, tandoori chicken, cilantro, caramelized onions, to-

mato, and serrano chili. Finally, they fl avor the sandwich with garam masala and

chaat masala and serve it up with a house-made chutney (mint, ginger, garlic, and cilantro) and masala ketch-up. Absolute heaven. Facebook.com/TheTwistedTandoor

All Things Sacred

I GO tO BisBee at least once a month. Two great eateries have reopened, making life more delicious in this old mining town. Poco, which closed back in August of 2013, has reopened and started once again serving their vegetarian/vegan fare. Honestly, as a nonvegetar-ian and meat-enthusiast, I forgot that I was eating vegetarian recently when I had their blackened Brussels sprouts burrito ( c h i m i c h a n g a style). This was after a long bike rideso I was hungry. And after I fi nished the burrito, I was suffi ciently stuff ed. Im usually skeptical about hybridizing something as sacred as the chimichanga. This chimichanga makes the case for experimentationthe result shows that it can some-times be worth it to mess with sacred objects. 15 Main St. Facebook.com/PocoBzb.


On the corner of 4th ave. & 9th st. 520.222.9889 www.cafecoronet.com


Speaking of sacred things: chocolate. You might not care about chocolate. But those of you who worship this substance will share the enthusiasm I have for the reopening of Chocolte. They usually close in summer, but were closed for a bit longer this year, evoking the consternation of those of us who rely on good, local chocolatiers. On the same cold day I stuff ed myself at Poco, it started to rain. We pulled up to the tiny storefront, just a bit farther up Tombstone Canyon Road, and scrambled across the street; for a moment, all I could do was let my eyes ramble from one tru e to the next. Chiltepin tru es, pepper tru es, and my favorite, aejo tequila tru es, topped with rock salt and lime. I washed them down with a cup of fresh, rich hot chocolate. A sacrament for any epicurean. 134 Tombstone Canyon. SpiritedChocolate.com.

Of all things sacred, the chimichanga has had much discussion within

these pages. It is the honest result of borderland exchange. Some

say the chimichanga is just a Mexican egg roll, implying that Chinese immigrants in our region contributed to the invention of this perfect food. In Tubac, Sotos PK Outposthas a wonderful chimichanga, rolled to a proportion similar

to an eggroll. I should mention that it would be a sacrilege to

consume this chimi without a mar-garita, or three. 14 Camino Otero.

Facebook.com/SotosPKOutpost

The Most Important Meal of the Day

BecAUse i trAVeL a lot for work, I stay at a lot of hotels, motels, B&Bs, and ranches. The term continental breakfast, to any well-trav-elled person, usually implies something underwhelming and unsavory: breakfast cereal, granola, bread (croissant if you are lucky), yogurt, and fruit washed down with coff ee and orange juice.

Triangle T Guest Ranchhas forever ru-ined me for con-tinental breakfast.

to the tiny storefront, just a bit farther up Tombstone Canyon Road,

could do was let my eyes

lime. I washed them down with a cup of


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After a wine-tasting event in the area, I booked an overnight stay. I did not anticipate much when I was made aware that continental breakfast would be made available after 9 a.m. Arriving at the communal tables in the dining hall, I poured my coff ee, grabbed some watermelon, and took a seat. Next thing I know, a hot dish was set in front of me, full of eggs Benedict on an English muffi n and ham with a side of bacon and home fries. Needless to say, this is the perfect way to start a day of horseback riding or exploringthe landscape of the Dragoon Mountains is amazing, and just a short walk away is the Amerind Museum and the Fulton-Hayden Me-morial Art Gallery. Only an hour away from Tucson, the Triangle T Guest Ranch is a very easy getaway and comes highly recommended. 4190 Dragoon Road. 520.586.7533. AzRetreatCenter.com.

I spend a lot of time and energy sharing my enthusiasm for the amazing eateries of our region. But I want to emphasize that I do not do this at the cost of making wonderful food at home. Armed with a great array of cookbooks and the Inter-net, one of my favorite ventures is taking the various ingre-dients I have gathered from farmers markets, CSAs, grocers, and food purveyors and making food in my own kitchen. I also cull ingredients from my own garden. One of my favorite breakfasts is loosely poached eggs (from my chickens), set atop blanched or lightly sauted greens, seasonable vegeta-bles, goat cheese, and slices of artisanal sourdough bread. This breakfast fuels my days wandering about, hunting for the gastronomical off erings of these wonderful borderlands. Along with a hearty breakfast, my mornings are best spent waking up with loved ones, in the kitchen with the smell of food and brewing coff ee.

Jared McKinley is the associate publisher of Edible Baja Arizona.Edible Baja Arizona


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Happy New year, and welcome to Hailes Healthy Swaps! Dont worry, Im still mixing it up in the kitchen and shar-ing my creations, but now readers get even more yummy recipes to try, as Ive accepted the challenge to share healthy swaps for typically not-so-healthy meals. I present these recipes as yummy alternatives for anyone hoping to follow through on New Year resolutions to eat a bit healthier without sacrificing flavor.

My first swap is for breakfast.Cheesy scrambled eggs, meat-filled omelets, and pancakes are typical favorites, but they often come with cholesterol and saturated fat that we could all do without. Ive come up with an equally delicious and flavorful Tofu and Brussels Sprouts Wrap. Tofu is naturally gluten-free and low in calories, contains no cho-lesterol, and is an excellent source of protein, iron, and calcium. Not only can tofu be nutritious, but its extremely versatile too. Season or marinate it in any of your favorite seasoning blends and the tofu will absorb the flavor. Give this recipe a try for a quick and nourishing way to break your fast.

KIDS MENU

Hailes Healthy SwapsBy Haile Thomas | Photography by Jackie Alpers

Tofu and Brussels Sprout Wrap 1 small jalapeo pepper, cut in thin strips red onion, sliced 2 cups shredded Brussels sprouts cup cherry tomatoes, quartered 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 cup silken tofu, diced 1 small-to-medium potato, thinly sliced 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil sprouted grain tortilla salt and pepper to taste 1 tablespoon of your favorite spice blend (I like Trader Joes Everyday Seasoning) fire-roasted tomato salsa (I used a store- bought one, but you can make your own.)

Chop, slice, and dice all vegetables and tofu.Thinly slice potato, season, and pan fry in 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil for 3-4 minutes, then add to platter. Season and stir-fry vegetables and tofu in remaining olive oil for about 3-5 minutes, until veggies are cooked through but still with a little crunch.Serve potatoes and tofu and veggie mix wrapped in the tortilla; add fire-roasted salsa on top. Enjoy!



My secoNd swap is for snack time! Its been a few hours since breakfast and you want a quick pick-me-up. You could grab a bag of chips. The crunch and salt of potato chips is definitely enjoyablebut as for healthy, many brands are not!They can be high in fat and sodium, and filled with empty calories. So how about a better option? Make your own Oven Baked Sweet Potato Chips. This recipe is a yummy healthy swap, because not only do you control the salt, oil, and flavor, but also these are baked, not deep-fried. The saturated fat and trans fat in deep-fried foods increase your risk for high cholesterol and heart disease. Making your own chips is a whole lot better and delicious.

Oven Baked Sweet Potato Chips

2 large organic sweet potatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil salt, to taste

Udon Noodle Salad

1 package Japanese udon noodles, cooked, rinsed, and cooled 1 head napa cabbage, thinly sliced head purple cabbage, thinly sliced bag fresh baby spinach 1 whole red bell pepper, thinly sliced 1 whole yellow bell pepper, thinly sliced 2 carrots, shredded 1 bag bean sprouts 1 bunch chopped cilantro 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced

LuNch is all about refueliNg to get through the rest of the day before dinner. Typical lunch favorites like burgers and sandwiches often come full of processed, high fat, and nutritionally empty ingredients. So Ive created a vibrant, delicious, and nutritious Udon Noodle Salad to enjoy instead. This recipe is filled with fiber-filled veggies and spices to keep you fueled, full, and satisfied!

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Rinse and dry sweet potatoes and thinly slice. If you have a mandolin, use itif the chips are too thick and uneven, they wont crisp all the way. Toss the potato slices in olive oil to lightly coat, and then sprinkle with sea salt. Spread coated slices on a baking sheet and bake for about 1-1 hours, flipping chips halfway to ensure even cooking.Remove once crisp and golden brown. Let them rest for 10 minutes to crisp up before enjoying.

Noodle Dressing:

1 whole lime, juiced 10 tablespoons olive oil 10 tablespoons tamari 4-5 tablespoons sesame oil cup brown sugar 6 tablespoons fresh ginger, chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 3-4 whole Serrano peppers, chopped chopped cilantro

Cook udon noodles according to package instructions.Chop, slice, and mix salad ingredients together. Whisk dressing ingredients together and use about half of the dressing to toss into the chilled noodles, and then pour the rest over the salad.Mix salad and noodles together with tongs and serve on a platter. Enjoy!

Haile Thomas is an eighth grader at The Gregory School, a motivational speaker, and a young chef featured on the Food Networks Rachael vs. Guy: Kids Cook-Off.Haile is also the founder of the HAPPY Organization, which partners with the YWCA to offer kids cooking classes, fun physical activities, and nutrition education. Follow along at TheHappyOrg.org.



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edible Baja Arizona 31edible Baja Arizona 31

[EDIBLE HOMESTEAD]

Every issue, in these pages, my goal is to get you to plant varieties of vegetables and fruits that you dont nd in the grocery store. In the days before industrial agriculture simpli ed our choices to just a handful of variet-ies, information was passed between people about what apples made the best pies, which tomatoes made the best canned sauces, and what the heck does one do with salsify. This in-formation was regional, depending on what was historically grown in each area. In some parts of the world, these tradi-tions are still held. At street markets in Europe, generations of families still sell their farm products to the publictheyre so common that they arent called farmers markets; they are simply referred to as the local markets. Where we live, in the United States, this kind of connection has been overshadowed by our current food economy in which just a few varieties are grown on enormous scales to sell worldwide.

Over the past century, varieties of vegetables and fruits were chosen not necessarily for their taste or performance in particular dishes, but for their shelf life and appearance. Basically, they were chosen for their economic performance. You all know those perfect-looking tomatoes or apples that taste awful (but yet somehow are still sold daily in the su-permarket). We have been trained to purchase food based on super cial qualities that dont re ect the nutrition, avor, or useful qualities of any particular variety. And it is convenient, having fewer options. You dont have to work very hard to

gure out what to do with Tahitian squash or Italian puntar-elle. You can slice up those tasteless, medium-sized whatever tomatoes and put them on a salad and call it dinner.

That was the caseuntil recently. Somehow, diversity has become popular again. I have been somewhat impressed with o erings made available even in corporate chains like Trader Joes or Whole Foods. Black garlic, mache, and amaranth our are a few things that are now easily found for purchase.

But even the diversity appearing in the grocery store pales in comparison to what a gardener can grow. A stunning array of plants can be grown in the Baja Arizona backyard and all you have to do is gure out what the heck to do with a plant once you grow it.

This has been my experience growing food. I admit, I am a botanist and I grow things just because they are weird or fun. Once I have grown them, I am often faced with the challenge of guring out how not to waste my e orts and turn them into an edible dish. This educates me about more than just food, or botany. I learn about culture.

Were living in a time when we have the entire world of genetic diversity available online and in the pages of a few incredible seed catalogs.

One stunning catalog available now is the 356-page Whole Seed Catalog put out by Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Com-pany. They have taken it upon themselves not only to make amazing varieties available to the public (varieties found by

[EDIBLE HOMESTEAD][EDIBLE HOMESTEAD]

kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea)

A Renaissance of DiversityBy Jared R. McKinley | Illustrations by Danny Martin



[E.H.]

extensive research, lots of world travel, and sleuthy plant geekness), but also to document these varieties with gorgeous full color pictures. Who wouldnt want to grow green n-gerprint fava beans from the Andes or the pusa asita, a black carrot from India, once you see a photo of each? They are making rock stars of rustic, often ancient vegetables and fruits. Its about time.

But we dont have to look farther than our own backyard for such amazing plant geekness. For three decades, Native Seeds/SEARCH has been preserving both the genetic diver-sity of our region and also the culture behind it all, using the fanaticism of gardeners to help preserve our regions bank of food options (and preserving arid-adapted crops for the world if global warming dries the planet out).

In Baja Arizona, we are certainly at the forefront of change, and it all starts in the garden. All you have to do is grow, research, or just experiment with something new.

That experimentation ends in the kitchen, of course. And its more work to have to plan out your dinner than to add wa-ter and heat to a boxed meal. You will have to spend more time thinking about your meals. Yes, I am asking you to choose in-convenience. Because you will certainly fail many times. You may perhaps plant something at the wrong part of the year and not give it enough time to develop. You might not always

use the crop for its best purpose and may waste a good veg-etable on the wrong sort of dish. But if you care, you will learn what to do with all that bounty. You will become a better gardener. You will become a better cook. And your life will be enriched by the diversity that has never before been so available to any one group of people. We are privileged to live in a time when so much is being made available, and in a climate where so many things can be grown (if planted at the right time, in the right way). We are so lucky to nd ourselves exhausted at the end of a Saturday, having harvested the bounty we painstakingly grew for a season, and processed it in our kitchen to enjoy with loved ones at the dinner table.

romanesco (Brassica oleracea)

Plant NowFor directions on planting and careful for particular crops, join us at Facebook.com/EdibleBajaArizona

or visit us on our website at EdibleBajaArizona.com for our new series of gardening blog posts.

GREENS AND COLE CROPSBroccoli, broccoli rabe, cauli ower, kale, col-

lards, arugula, cabbage, nasturtium, miners lettuce, water cress, lettuce, mustards, kohlrabi, minutina, Swiss chard, the many Italian chicories, like endive, radicchio, puntarelle, chicons, escarole, grumolo verde, Catalogna chicory, and Asian greens like chrysanthemum greens, bok choy, Chinese cabbage, mizuna, mibuna, napa cabbage, tatsoi, yu choy, komatsuna.

WINTER ANNUAL HERBSParsley, dill, cilantro, fennel, chervil.

ROOT CROPSCarrots, beets, turnips, rutabaga, radish, daikon

radish, burdock, root chicory. You can also start potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes in warmer parts of our region.

ALLIUMSFrom potted plants or onion sets: onions (bulb

and bunching types), shallots, garlic, chives, Egyp-tian walking onion, leeks.

PERENNIALSAsparagus, artichokes, herbs like mint, oregano,

thyme, lavender, rosemary, sage, lemongrass, bay leaf.

FRUIT TREESYou can plant just about any fruit tree this time of

year. Be careful with frost-tender citrus (or tropical fruit trees). Make sure you plant varieties that are appropriate for your area. Lists of fruit varieties are available at the University of Arizona cooperative extension o ce (Extension.Arizona.edu/Pima).

Homestead.indd 32 12/19/14 9:36 AM


[E.H.]

The Bacon of the Vegetable World

The culinary worlds newfound enthusiasm for this hardy, cool-season vegetable is well-deserved. Kale is relatively easy to grow, presents few horti-cultural challenges, has a healthy nutritional pro le, stores well in the refrigerator, comes in a wide variety of gorgeous options, and is absolutely delicious. My favorite is still the nero di Toscana or Tuscan kale (also known as lacinato kale, dinosaur kale, or palm tree kale). But I dont want to undervalue other varieties, like the lovely oak leaf shape of Russian red kale, or the mouth-pleasing texture of the curly kales. With most varieties, colors range from light to dark greens, but there are some varieties that are partly or entirely red or purple to almost bluish. Texture can be extremely serrated and curly, bumpy, or smooth and round. A few varieties grow like palm trees, espe-cially the walking stick variety that grows six to 10 feet tall and produces a stem that can literally be dried and laminated to make walking sticks!

Most kale varieties are easy to nd, but varieties like the walking stick kale can be trickier. Hirts Gardens (Hirts.com) has them, as well as a variety called Nagoya owering red kale, an or-namental variety (still entirely edible) that grows in rosettes with a deep blood-red center.

The more pedestrian varieties of kale can be grown from nursery-grown starts (most commonly found in 4-inch pots or six-packs). This includes my favorite, Tuscan kale. But more variety is available if you start from seed, obtained on-line or in print catalogs.

TO START FROM SEED

Plant seeds an inch apart and keep seedlings well-wa-tered, thinning them out as they grow (save the seed-lings you pull out for salads and garnishes). Give each plant enough room to fully develop.

If you let them grow too close (or fail to thin seedlings out

su ciently) individual plants may not grow to

mature, optimal size.Eventually most

kale varieties get fairly large. With some types, you can harvest the lower leaves and they will continue to produce more leaves growing

up though the meristem (grow-

ing point). Kale is best fed steadily

with an organic fertilizer like sh emul-

sion or kelp meal. Mulch the base of plants after they

reach a few inches high with straw or compost to conserve water. Plants

are best grown in full sun, but can tolerate some shadebut too much shade causes plants to succumb to pests. Well-established kale can persist into the summer and some-times into the following year, but such plants are more prone to problems, like aphids. In the cooler areas of our region, well-watered or well-fed plants can su er frost damage, but a little frost and cool weather can improve the avor of kale.

Jared McKinley is the associate publisherof Edible Baja Arizona

GARDENING WITHOUT A GARDEN

Some of you may want to grow a garden, but lack the space for it where you live. The formation of public, community gardens is a growing trend in Tucson (and in the country), which can provide you with an option for space to grow. Com-munity gardens are sometimes free (if supported by

a neighborhood association), but often have minimal feesusually under $20that go toward water bills and resources for the garden, like irrigation supplies, shovels, or infrastructure. For the most updated list of community gardens in the Tucson area, visitCommunityGardensof Tucson.org.

well in the refrigerator, comes in a wide variety of gorgeous options, and is absolutely delicious. My favorite is still the nero di Toscana or Tuscan kale (also known as lacinato kale, dinosaur kale, or palm tree kale). But I dont want to undervalue other varieties, like the lovely oak leaf shape of Russian red kale, or the mouth-pleasing texture of the curly kales.

range from light to dark greens, but there are some

Plings you pull out for salads and garnishes). Give each plant enough room to fully develop.

If you let them grow too close (or fail to thin seedlings out

su ciently) individual plants may not grow to

mature, optimal size.

kale (Brassica oleracea)


34 January - February 201534 January - February 2015

[E.H.]

Kaela Wilford wanted to eat fresh veggies but she didnt have a lot of space in her backyard. Marylee Pangman wanted to plant her garden higher o the ground for easy access. Peter Bourque wanted to put a couple of old bathtubs to use, instead of throwing them away.

For these three Tucsonans, container gardens were the answer.

Container gardening follows the same basic premise as traditional garden-ing, but plants are all grown within some type of enclosed and raised receptacle. By using contain-ers you target your water use, have control over the soil quality, and have the option to raise or lower your beds to meet your personal needs.

Pangman teaches gardening classes at the Tucson Botanical Gardens and has been growing plants in her own pots for years. She also owns her own gar-dening company, The Potted Desert, and con-sults with clients all over southern Arizona about potted gardens.

Whats really nice is to sit in your chair and tend to your plants, Pang-man said. Its one of the reasons I started doing it.

The class size varies from small groups of eight up to groups of 50 people. She said shes surprised at the number of people coming out to the classes.

Edibles are de nitely on the list of what peo-ple want to learn about, Pangman said.

Container gardens can be made from just about anything that holds soil. Pangman buys pots and Bourque uses old con-tainers and scrap materials. Its all about personal style and how you want your garden to look.

The pots themselves are gorgeous. Theyre like the podi-um for the plants, Pangman said. Its this organic piece of art thats shown in this gorgeous pot.

Container garden watering can also be more directly tar-geted than in-ground bed gardens. Nearby trees, weeds, and

dry dirt dont absorb water that was intended for your garden plants. While water usage is targeted,

plants still need shade to retain moisture, even in cooler winter months. As your

garden grows in the summer, more frequent watering may be need-

ed. Its important to keep an eye on the exposure of your

plants throughout the year and adjust their location or watering schedule to accommodate.

Bourque also said container gardens give you more control over the quality and blend of soil and manure you use in your garden. Bourque blends ground soil, fertil-izer, manure, and compost to keep his soil well fed, and makes his own com-post from kitchen scraps.

Bourque has been mak-ing container gardens out of old bathtubs for seven years. Boppas Garden, as

his family has named it, also has pool lter tubs, repur-

posed grills, and barrels holding soil full of lush garden plants. His

son, Jesse, is a contractor and started giving him old tubs as they were pulled

out of renovated homes. Bourque wanted to do something useful with them.

He set them up in his backyard, lled them with soil, and began to grow. Bourque had been a gardener before, but for him, this was di erent. He was able to control the soil he was using more easily and was able to arrange his garden pots like he wanted.

Easy Container GardeningBy Nicole Thill | Illustrations by Danny Martin



[E.H.]

Its really satisfying to see photosynthesis happen, Bourque said. Were going to have salad every night for the next seven months now, so it helps us eat better, too.

Picking the right size pots is an important step. You can use decorated terracotta, an old plastic bucket, or a wooden barrel on its way to the trash. The key is making sure it can hold enough soil. The container should be at least two feet deep, and 14-18 inches across if you plan to grow small plants like lettuces and greens. For bigger veggies, a 24-inch pot might work better.

One common mistake is to start too big or trying to grow too many veggies at once. Pick one or two veggies youre in-terested in and start there. If they grow well, its always easy to begin potting more plants or experimenting once youve had some success.

Growing fresh herbs and salad ingredients like lettuce, radishes, and tomatoes is a good place to start. Try to grow vegetables with shallow root systems. Container gardens dont lend themselves well to things like pumpkins or squash, but theyre good for plants like lettuce, greens, carrots, peas, and broccoli. Beans that grow in bushes are also good because of the growth pattern of the plant, said Pangman.

PANGMAN RECOMMENDS THESE7 BASIC STEPS TO GET STARTED ON YOUR CONTAINER GARDEN TODAY.

1. Buy a pot: Or a bucket. Rescue an old crate, grill, or wash-tub. Anything that holds soil will work.

2. Pick a location: Look at the size of your container and nd a place in your yard, windowsill, or porch that will accommodate the pot. Keep in mind that plants need sun, water, and shade when selecting a place to plop down your garden. Remember, if your pots arent too heavy you can always move the plants as needed.

3. Pick your plants: Decide what you want to grow. Lettuce, kale, peas, carrots, radishes are all good winter crops.

4. Grab some soil: Blending topsoil, compost, and manure to get a nutrient-rich soil blend is one way to do it. Any soil with organic material in it helps hold in moisture and nutrients which will help your garden grow.

5. Hit the store: You can start from seeds or buy seed-lings to transplant into your containers. If youre just starting out, visit local nurseries for more tips on how

and what to grow.

6. Arrange your garden: If you buy seedlings, transfer them right away to their new garden homes. If you buy seeds, determine which veg-gies will grow in what pots and start planting.

7. Water, water, water: Make sure to water starter plants right away and keep a daily

watering schedule. See how the plants react and adjust how much and how often you water, but dont let them sit too long without any moisture.

Nicole Thill is a journalism major at the University of Arizona with minors in Spanish and astronomy. She is a native Tucsonan and loves to eat new foods, cook,

and bake.



[E.H.]

HOW TO PRESERVE LEMONS

Common in Moroccan cooking, preserved lemons add a avor pro le to dishes that you cant get from a regular lemon. Theyre super easy to preparethe sooner you get to preserving, the sooner you can enjoy.

You will need: A sterilized glass jar; enough lemons, sliced in quarters, to ll the jar to the very top; and 1 tablespoon of salt per lemon

Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of salt in the bottom of the jar and layer one layer of lemons over the salt, pressing the lemons into the salt. Sprinkle another table-spoon of salt over the rst layer of lemons and repeat until the lemons come up to the very top of the jar. If the lemon juice from the existing lemons doesnt cover the top layer of lemons, then juice a couple more and pour just the juice over the lemons so that all are completely covered. Sprinkle a bit more salt over the last layer and seal the jar. Place the jar into a dark cupboard at room tem-perature for one month. After you open the jar, store in the fridge and use within one year.

When you use your preserved lemons, give them a slight rinse and then chop them up, peels and all.

SIMPLE, DELICIOUS FENNEL

Fennel is in the same family as carrots, celery, dill, and parsley. Its packed with antioxidants, high in ber, and its an anti-in ammatory food. The avor is a clean, refreshing combination of celery and anise. The smaller the fennel, the more tender it is; the larger the fennel, the more coarse and brous it will be.

The fennel bulb is the most commonly used part of the plant. You cant do much with the stalk, but you can use the delicate green fronds as you would use any other fresh herb.

Its super tasty to throw into a salad or to garnish a soup.

Heres a simple recipe to return to time and again. Cut the stalks o one big bulb of fennel so youre left with just the bulb. Slice the tough end o from the very bottom of the bulb and then cut the bulb in half. Thinly slice the fennel into half-moons and place in a bowl. Add some raisins, some quartered kalamata olives, a couple teaspoons of lemon juice, a kiss of olive oil, and a pinch of sea salt. Mix everything together and place in a bowl. Top with chopped walnuts and a few sprigs of the green frond when youre ready to serve.

Kitchen 101Text and photography by Molly Patrick


[E.H.]

ROOT VEGGIES THREE WAYS

Root Veggies are everywhere this time of year. They ll up CSA boxes and nd their way to kitchens, only to get ignored until too many are piled up and you cant see past the celery root. When youre ready to tackle your root veggies, try these three techniques and never have a root veggie pileup again.

ROOT VEGGIE PANCAKES These are like potato latkes, but instead of potatoes, you

can use whatever root veggies you have lying around. You can whip these up in less than 15 minutes.

Take 2 cups of grated root veggies and combine them in a mixing bowl with half of a grated onion, 2 tablespoons of rice our, and 3 tablespoons of either chia seeds or ax meal, 1 green onion, cup of water, a pinch or two of salt, and some fresh cracked black pepper.

Stir the ingredients until everything is combined and heat olive oil in a skillet. When the oil is hot, scoop up some of the veggie mixture and form it in the shape of a little pancake and then pan fry on either side until golden brown. Do this until all the mixture is used up. Drizzle with tahini or top with cashew cheese and serve.

ROOT VEGETABLE GRATINIf youve never used root veggies in this application,

youve been missing out. This is quite possibly the easiest gratin recipe out there and it will leave you totally satis ed but not weighed down.

You can use any root veggies you like, but a good combi-nation is 1 celery root, 1 turnip, 1 rutabaga, and 1 beet. Start by parboiling the veggies until theyre soft enough to cut through them easily, but not soft enough so they fall apart. Slice into thin rounds. Lightly oil an 8 by 8 inch baking pan and evenly distribute the root veggies.

Place 2 cups of veggie broth, 1 cup of cashew pieces, 2 ta-blespoons of rice our, and a pinch or two of salt and pepper in a blender and blend until smooth, about a minute or two. Pour mixture over the veggies, drizzle a little olive oil on top, and place in a 350 oven for 45 minutes to an hour, or until the top is bubbly and brown and the veggies are tender.

SIMPLE ROASTED ROOT VEGGIES Roasting is one of the easiest and tastiest ways to prepare

root veggies. Use whatever root veggies you have on hand, and cut them into whatever size pieces you want. You can leave the smaller ones like carrots and parsnips whole, or slice in half. Veggies that have a thick skin, like celery root and kohlrabi, need to be peeled, while other veggies like beets and turnips dont need to be peeled.

Place the cut veggies in a large bowl and add some good quality olive oil or coconut oil, fresh herbs, some acid, like vinegar or orange juice, a few peeled and smashed garlic cloves, and a pinch or two of salt and pepper. Pop them in a 400 oven and roast for 40-45 minutes, or until golden brown.



[E.H.]

Knives 101The only three knives you need in your kitchen

Text and photography by Molly Patrick

Cooking quality food in your home kitchen is not only less expensive than going out, its also healthier. Whether youre cooking for your family, your friends, or just yourself, theres nothing like being prepared before you get cookinwhich means getting out your knives! There are really just three knives that you need.

The most essential knife to have in your kitchen is an 8-10 inch chef s knife. Dont be intimidated by the name. You and your chef s knife will do 85-90 percent of all your daily cooking tasks. While you can skimp on the quality of some kitchen items, its important to have a good quality chef s knife. You can get a good one starting at $100. Once you have your chef s knife in hand, you will be able to do almost anything with it, from cutting and dicing to chopping veggies, fruits, meats, and sh. Chef s knives are typically heavier than other knives, but once you use it a few times the weight will feel natural and you will feel totally in control. The next most important knife in your collection is a small paring knife.

A paring knife is great for small kitchen jobs that your chef s knife is too big for, like slicing herbs, cutting shallots, slicing garlic, and cutting small fruits like raspberries. Its also a must-have for paringgo gure! The blade should be 3-4 inches long. A good quality paring knife should cost around $20.

A bread knife isnt crucial, but it does round out the other two knives nicely. It is most com-monly used for slicing through thick loaves of bread, but it can also be used on veggies and fruits with a waxy exterior, like tomatoes and pineapple. Because serrated knives cant really be sharpened, you dont have to dish out a lot of dough for one that will work. Choose one thats 12 inches or longer and budget around $15 for it. Serrated knives are used for slicing and never chopping.

Dont forget: Knives should be professional-ly sharpened at least once a year.

Molly Patrick blogs at BoldVegan.com



3560 W. Bilby RoadTucson, AZ 85746

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Arid LandsGreenhouses

We offer one of the largest selections of succulent plants and cacti in the world, including Adenium, Euphorbia,

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nursery


While Russ Buhrowwas the curator of plants at Tohono Chul Parka position he held for 21 yearshe intro-duced many new species of native plants into the nursery trade, including many of his own selections and hybrids. In retirement, hes still growing lots of saguaros, running a sawmill, and is planning other top secret projects. I rst met Russ in the 1990s, when I owned a small plant nursery.

Were you always into plants?

I grew up on a farm, so we always had a garden and grew things. When I went to col-lege, I went to study astron-omy and found out it wasnt what I thought; it wasnt looking through telescopes. It was just a bunch of math and physics. It wasnt as much fun for meI like to do more hands-on stu . After a short break, when I went back to college, I changed my focus to agronomy, and then gravitated toward more horticultural stu . Agronomy was right next to astronomy in the catalog, so

Back in the 1990s, I remember you were growing all kinds of weird plants. One stands out in my memory, a plant that nobody else was growing: Crossosoma bigelovii, or ragged rock ower.

Nobody knew how to grow it. They would try to germi-nate some seeds, and the germination would be poor and they would give up. All you have to do is select for nondorman-cyit takes a couple of generations.

But you were growing a plant that had no demand, except for plant weirdos like us.

Well somebody has to lead. The world is full of followers. But really to me, it was just about growing pretty plants that were appropriate for our environment. Crossosoma is a beautiful plant.

People want to grow Ca-mellias or they want to grow ... azaleas. And I just cant be-lieve it. Are you kidding me? They like acid soil! Our soil is alkaline. Some spots at To-hono Chul are so alkaline, its almost corrosive! There are plants that are here and grow in soil like that. And theyre happy. And they are beautiful.

We still sell a lot of non-natives in the nursery trade.

People did a lot of devel-opment in Europe a long time ago. They found plants native to their area, or sometimes from expeditions to Asia or elsewhere, brought them into their yards, and grew them because they were interesting or pretty. Over time they

picked the better ones. That is all I do: what they did then but with our own native plants. For some reason, maybe we are in a state of arrested development, we just hang on to those plants instead of developing plants here, appropriate to our own climate.

Do you think nostalgia plays a part in us hanging on to those plants?

Yes. People want what they know, what they grew up with. But again, someone has to lead. Get the new things into the market. If they are pretty, and you are the only one who has them, those plants will sell. It was good doing the work I did under a nonpro t. We could spend the time and energy looking and selecting [new selections] and if one of those plants got popular, the nurseries might pick them up. Those guys have to make money. But see, this is where the nonpro ts

Gardener Q&A: Russ BuhrowInterview by Jared R. McKinley | Photography by Addie Mannan



have a placedevelopment. Nurseries mostly pick up what is already popular, native or non-native, and maybe they will work on improving those plants. But they have to make money. I know a lot of people who were [doing development] and went broke.

I was one of them. Well, there you go. That was the nice things about [Toho-

no Chul]. Take penstemons. We were growing like something between 30 and 50 di erent ones. Many of those were tough [to grow], but there were 10-15 that worked ... most anybody could grow them. Now all you have in the trade predictably are about 3 or 4 kinds.

Are you still developing plants? I still do plant breeding. I have some projects now. Its all

top secret. When something comes out, I will let you know.

Is the winter garden your favorite?Winter gardens are nice because you get a lot more food

for the amount of water you put out. But I like the summer garden better. I love corn. I love squash. I like growing fresh tomatoes and peppers. That costs a lot of money, though. The only way tomatoes and peppers make economic sense is if you container grow them, and keep the adjacent trees from sucking the water from them. People dont realize how much trees suck the water out of the garden. Use big pots. Plastic pots that dont let water evaporate out of the sides. We often put a bunch of large plastic pots up against each other and that keeps them from going dry too fast.

You have quite an asparagus bed. Is this Martha Washington?

No it was some other variety; its supposed to be super fat. But the damn dog eats them o ! We never got any asparagus because he got at them all.

What citrus are you growing?Lets see, thats a ruby red [grapefruit], and there is a moro

blood orange. And we have a kinnow mandarin, a Washington navel, minneola tangelo, Valencia orange, Arizona sweet or-ange, and a marrs orange.

The kinnow mandarin is really, really good. Problem is you have to wait. They start getting really good in March, really April, so you have to wait.

You have a g tree, too. Yeah, I dont have the variety name on that, but its one of

those yellow ones. Super sugary. We got a frost recently here. They dont taste as good when the trees start going to sleep. Those stress chemicals. As soon as they got hit by the frost we just had, they went from really yummy to the birds arent even eating them.

Any advice for beginning gardeners?Dont blame the plant. The plant never fails. We just have

to gure out what it needs. Give the plant what it needs and it will thrive.

Jared McKinley is the associate publisherof Edible Baja Arizona


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Free Baby Saguaro Cactus



[E.H.]

Farm ReportWHATS IN SEASON IN BAJA ARIZONA.By Sara Jones | Photography by Liora K

For most of the country, eating local in winter means eating storage items like large roots and dense cabbages. Lucky for us, fresh produce is available here year-round. Winter markets in our region are lovely and abundant. Di erent hues

of green, gold, red, and purple leaves spill over market displays and vibrantly colored root veggies abound. But lets face it: Winter crops just dont have the prestige and allure of summer crops. Sun-ripened tomatoes, watermelon, and sweet corn evoke the nostalgia of childhood summers. Many winter crops, like cooking greens, beets, and turnips, evoke a very di erent sort of memorya soggy pile of overcooked veggies that had to be consumed before you could leave the dinner table.

If you grew up disliking any of these winter vegetables, now is the time to revisit them. Seed companies have scoured the world and have developed better-tasting varieties in the past couple of decades.

Take the turnip. The earthy, funky nature of this veggie can turn some people o , but sweeter varieties of salad turnips are now available, which have a milder avor and crisp, juicy esh. Rattlebox Farm owners Dana Helfer and Paul Buseck sell vegetables and o er a CSA pick-up at the Thursday Santa Cruz River farmers market at the Mercado San Agustn. They o er two varieties of salad turnips and Dana says, We nd that people who like radishes love them. The creamy white hak-urei, or Japanese salad turnip, and the Ruby Queen have a more subtle turnip avor and their esh is crisp and sweet. We have grown these turnips since we started out ve years ago. They are easy to grow and customers ask for them, Dana says. These turnips are great for salads, where they are frequently mistaken for apples, and for quick sauts and stir fries.

GREENS AND BUTTERNUT SQUASH IN GINGER

COCONUT SAUCEYou can use any greens you like in this

recipe. It is particularly good with pak choi, as the succulent stems soak up the sauce. If you like curry avors, add more spices to the mix, sauting them with the onions before adding the rest of the ingredients. Add tofu, garbanzo beans, or chicken and serve over rice for a complete meal.

In a large skillet, heat oil over medium high heat and add onion. Cook, stirring occa-sionally until the onion begins to brown. Add ginger, chile akes, and coriander and cook until fragrant. Add vegetables and coconut milk, plus about cup of water. Bring to a low simmer and cook until squash is tender. Season to taste with soy sauce or sh sauce and a bit of lime juice.

1 large bunch greens, cleaned and roughly choppedabout 2 cups peeled winter squash or sweet potatoes, diced small1 inch fresh ginger, grated1 onion, sliced thinly teaspoon ground coriander1 tablespoon oil1 cup garbanzo beans, tofu, or chicken can coconut milkred chile akes, to tastesoy sauce or sh sauce, to tastelime juice and zest from one lime



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edible Baja Arizona - January/February 2015