Upload
others
View
11
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
ENCYCLOPEDIA ofCOASTAL SCIENCE
Encyclopedia ofEarth Sciences Series
ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COASTAL SCIENCE
Volume EditorMaurice Schwartz is Professor Emeritus, Department of Geology at Western Washington University, Bellingham, Washington, United States;where he served near the end of his tenure as Dean of the Graduate School and Bureau for Faculty Research. As well as being an author of numer-ous articles which have appeared in the coastal geology literature he was the editor of Spits and Bars (Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross, 1972), BarrierIslands (Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross, 1973), Encyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments (Hutchinson Ross, 1982), and co-edited with Eric Bird The World’s Coastline (Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1985).
Aim of the SeriesThe Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series provides comprehensive and authoritative coverage of all the main areas in the Earth Sciences. Eachvolume comprises a focused and carefully chosen collection of contributions from leading names in the subject, with copious illustrations andreference lists.
These books represent one of the world’s leading resources for the Earth Sciences community. Previous volumes are being updated andnew works published so that the volumes will continue to be essential reading for all professional earth scientists, geologists, geophysicists,climatologists, and oceanographers as well as for teachers and students.
See the back of this volume for a current list of titles in the Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series. Go to www.eseo.com to visit the “EarthSciences Encyclopedia Online”—the online version of this Encyclopedia Series.
About the EditorsProfessor Rhodes W. Fairbridge has edited more than 30 Encyclopedias in the Earth Sciences Series. During his career he has worked as a petro-leum geologist in the Middle East, been a WW II intelligence officer in the SW Pacific and led expeditions to the Sahara, Arctic Canada, ArcticScandinavia, Brazil and New Guinea. He is currently Emeritus Professor of Geology at Columbia University and is affiliated with the GoddardInstitute for Space Studies.
Professor Michael Rampino has published more than 100 papers in professional journals including Science, Nature, and Scientific American.He has worked in such diverse fields as volcanology, planetary science, sedimentology, and climate studies, and has done field work on six continents.He is currently Associate Professor of Earth and Environmental Sciences at New York University and a consultant at NASA’s Goddard Institute forSpace Studies.
Advisory Board
Eric BirdGeostudies, 343 Beach RoadBlack Rock, Victoria 3193MelbourneAustralia
Charles W. FinklCPE Coastal Geology and Geomatics2481 N.W. Boca Raton Blvd.Bacon Raton, FL 33431USA
Saskia JelgersmaElzenlaan 6Bergen aan Zee 1865 BMThe Netherlands
Dieter H. KelletatUniversität-GH EssenFB9-PhysiogeographieUniversitaetsstrasse 15Essen 1 D-45117Germany
Nicholas C. KrausU.S. Army, Coastal Hydraulics LaboratoryVicksburg, MS 39180USA
Paolo A. PirazzoliCNRS – Laboratoire de Geographie Physique1, Place Aristide Briand92195 Meudon cedexFrance
ENCYCLOPEDIA ofCOASTAL SCIENCE
edited by
MAURICE L. SCHWARTZDepartment of Geology
Western Washington University, WA, USA
ENCYCLOPEDIA OF EARTH SCIENCES SERIES
A C.I.P. Catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress
ISBN-13 978-1-4020-1903-6 (HB)ISBN-13 978-1-4020-3565-4 (e-book)ISBN-10 1-4020-1903-3 (HB)ISBN-10 1-4020-3565-9 (e-book)
Published by Springer,PO Box 17, 3300 AA Dordrecht, The Netherlands
Printed on acid-free paper
Every effort has been made to contact the copyright holders of the figures and tables which have been reproduced from other sources. Anyone whohas not been properly credited is requested to contact the publishers, so that due acknowledgement may be made in subsequent editions.
All rights reserved© 2005 SpringerNo part of this work may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,photocopying, microfilming, recording or otherwise, without written permission from the Publisher, with the exception of any material suppliedspecifically for the purpose of being entered and executed on a computer system, for exclusive use by the purchaser of the work.
Printed in the Netherlands
To Evelyn Kest, my companion and inspiration
List of Contributors xv
Foreword xxxiii
Preface xxxv
Accretion and Erosion Waves on Beaches 1Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins
Africa, Coastal Ecology 4Anton McLachlan
Africa, Coastal Geomorphology 9Antony R. Orme
Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping andLight Detection and Ranging 21
Stephen P. Leatherman, Dean Whitman, and Keqi Zhang
Algal Rims 24Jacques Laborel
Alluvial-Plain Coasts 25Daniel F. Belknap
Altimeter Surveys, Coastal Tides, and Shelf Circulation 27
Guoqi Han
Antarctica, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 28Andrew McMinn
Aquaculture 33Robert R. Stickney
Archaeological Site Location, Effect ofSea-Level Change 38
Melanie J. Stright
Archaeology 40Lucille Lewis Johnson
Arctic, Coastal Ecology 45Jean-François Hamel and Annie Mercier
Arctic, Coastal Geomorphology 49H. Jesse Walker
Artificial Islands 55Marcel J.F. Stive
Asia, Eastern, Coastal Ecology 56Donald Macintosh
Asia, Eastern, Coastal Geomorphology 67D. Eisma
Contents
Asia, Middle East, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 71
Paul Sanlaville and Abel Prieur
Asia, Southern (see Indian Ocean Coasts) 83
Asteroid-Impact Coasts 83Rhodes W. Fairbridge
Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology 84Annie Mercier and Jean-François Hamel
Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology 88Jim D. Hansom
Atolls 95David Hopley
Australia, Coastal Ecology 96Karen S. Edyvane
Australia, Coastal Geomorphology 110Eric Bird
Barrier Islands 117Miles O. Hayes
Barrier 119Eric Bird
Barriers, Gravel (see Gravel Barriers) 120
Bars 120Brian Greenwood
Bay Beaches 129Karl F. Nordstrom
Beach and Nearshore Instrumentation 130Robin Davidson-Arnott
Beach Cusps (see Rhythmic Patterns) 138
Beach Drain 138Per Bruun
Beach Erosion 140Edward J. Anthony
Beach Features 145Michael J. Chrzastowski
Beach Nourishment 147Charles W. Finkl and H. Jesse Walker
Beach Processes 161John R. Dingler
Beach Profile 169Nicholas C. Kraus
Beach Rating (see Rating Beaches) 172
Beach Ridges 172Ervin G. Otvos
Beach Safety (see Lifesaving and Beach Safety) 177
Beach Sediment Characteristics 177Alan S. Trenhaile
Beach Stratigraphy 179Yoshiki Saito
Beach Use and Behaviors 181Niels West
Beachrock 183Robert J. Turner
Beaufort Wind Scale 186Dilip K. Barua
Bioconstruction 186William T. Fox
Bioengineered Shore Protection 188Kevin R. Hall
Bioerosion 191William T. Fox
Biogenous Coasts (see Vegetated Coasts) 192
Biogeomorphology 192Martin J. Baptist
Bioherms and Biostromes 194Jacques Laborel
Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 194Yuri Dolotov and Pavel Kaplin
Bluffs (see Cliffed Coasts) 203
Bogs 203Martyn Waller
Boulder Barricades 204Peter S. Rosen
Boulder Beaches 206John McKenna
Boulder Pavements 208Jim D. Hansom
Bypassing at Littoral Drift Barriers 210Per Bruun
Capping of Contaminated Coastal Areas 216Ram K. Mohan
Carbonate Sandy Beaches 218Andrew D. Short
Caribbean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 221Gillian Cambers
Carrying Capacity in Coastal Areas 226M. MacLeod and J.Andrew G. Cooper
Cays 227David Hopley
Central America (see Middle America) 227
Chalk Coasts 227Vincent May
Changing Sea Levels 229Nils-Axel Mörner
Cheniers 233Ervin G. Otvos
Classification of Coasts (see Holocene Coastal Geomorphology) 235
Cleaning Beaches 235Niels West
Cliffed Coasts 237Alan S. Trenhaile
Cliffs, Erosion Rates 240Tsuguo Sunamura
Cliffs, Lithology versus Erosion Rates 241Tsuguo Sunamura
Climate Patterns in the Coastal Zone 243Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins
Coastal Boundaries 246Peter H.F. Graber
Coastal Changes, Gradual 251B.G. Thom and P.J. Cowell
Coastal Changes, Rapid 253David B. Scott
Coastal Climate 255David Greenland
Coastal Currents 259Guy Gelfenbaum
Coastal Engineering (see Shore Protection Structures;Navigation Structures) 260
Coastal Hoodoos 260Shin Wang
Coastal Lakes and Lagoons 263George F. Oertel
Coastal Modeling and Simulation 266V. Chris Lakhan
Coastal Processes (see Beach Processes) 270
Coastal Sedimentary Facies 270H. Edward Clifton
Coastal Soils 278Charles W. Finkl
Coastal Subsidence 302Zhongyuan Chen and John Rybczyk
Coastal Temperature Trends 304George A. Maul
Coastal Upwelling and Downwelling 306Dilip K. Barua
Coastal Warfare 308Peter L. Guth
Coastal Wells 311Yaacov Nir
viii CONTENTS
Coastal Wind Effects 312Terry R. Healy
Coastal Zone Management 313Peter W. French
Coastline Changes 319Eric Bird
Coasts, Coastlines, Shores, and Shorelines 323George F. Oertel
Cohesive Sediment Transport 327Parmeshwar L. Shrestha and Alan F. Blumberg
Computer Simulation (see Coastal Modeling and Simulation) 330
Conservation of Coastal Sites 330Vincent May
Continental Shelves 337A.W. Niedoroda
Conversion Tables (see Appendix 1) 339
Coral Reef Coasts 339Charles R.C. Sheppard
Coral Reef Islands 342Gisèle Muller-Parker
Coral Reefs 343David Hopley
Coral Reefs, Emerged 349David Hopley
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport 352Richard J. Seymour
Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Size on Beaches 353Philip D. Osborne and David P. Simpson
Cuspate Forelands 354Stephen J. Craig-Smith
Dalmatian Coasts 356Dieter Kelletat
Dams, Effect on Coasts 357Jiyu Chen
Databases (see Appendix 4) 359
Dating (see Geochronology) 359
Datum (see Sea-Level Datums) 359
Debris (see Marine Debris–Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter) 359
Deltaic Ecology 359John M. Rybczyk
Deltas 362Shea Penland and Mark A. Kulp
Demography of Coastal Populations 368Iver W. Duedall and George A. Maul
Depth of Closure on Sandy Coasts 374Andrew Morang and William A. Birkemeier
Depth of Disturbance 377John P. Ahrens
Desalination 378Bénédicte Cherbuy and Jean-Christophe Aznar
Desert Coasts 379Rodman E. Snead
Dewatering (see Beach Drain) 387
Developed Coasts 387Nancy L. Jackson and Karl F. Nordstrom
Dikes 388Pieter G.E.F. Augustinus
Dissipative Beaches 389Douglas J. Sherman
Dredging of Coastal Environments 390Per Bruun
Drift and Swash Alignments 395Eric Bird
Driftwood 397Thomas A. Terich
Dune Calcarenite (see Eolianite) 398
Dune Ridges 398Terry R. Healy
Dynamic Equilibrium of Beaches 399Robert G. Dean
Economic Value of Beaches 401William B. Stronge
El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) 403Henry F. Diaz
Endogenic and Exogenic Factors 407Henry Bokuniewicz
Energy and Sediment Budgets of theGlobal Coastal Zone 408
Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins
Engineering Applications of Coastal Geomorphology 415
John R.C. Hsu
Environmental Quality 419Michael J. Kennish
Eolianite 426Eric Bird
Eolian Processes 428Patrick A. Hesp
Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting 428Mark Crowell, Stephen P. Leatherman, and Bruce Douglas
Erosion Processes 432Michael R. Rampino
Estuaries, Anthropogenic Impacts 434Michael J. Kennish
Estuaries 436Terry R. Healy
Eustasy 439Vivian Gornitz
CONTENTS ix
Europe, Coastal Ecology 442J. Pat Doody
Europe, Coastal Geomorphology 452Dieter Kelletat and Anja Scheffers
Faulted Coasts 463Roland P. Paskoff
Forecasting (see Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting) 466
Geochronology 467Gerhard Schellmann and Helmut Brückner
Geodesy 472Michael P. Stewart
Geographic Information Systems 472Shawn M. Boeser
Geographical Coastal Zonality 474Dieter H. Kelletat
Geohydraulic Research Centers 477James R. Houston
Geotextile Applications 479Ram K. Mohan and C.G.R. Nair
Glaciated Coasts 481Daniel F. Belknap
Global Positioning Systems 485Shawn M. Boeser
Global Vulnerability Analysis 486Robert J. Nicholls and Frank M.J. Hoozemans
Global Warming (see Greenhouse Effect and Global Warming) 491
Glossary of Coastal Geomorphology (see Appendix 5) 491
Gravel Barriers 491Julian D. Orford
Gravel Beaches 492David P. Simpson
Greenhouse Effect and Global Warming 494James G. Titus
Gross Transport 502Richard J. Seymour
Ground-Penetrating Radar 503Ilya Buynevich and Duncan M. FitzGerald
Groundwater (see Hydrology of the Coastal Zone) 507
Hazards (see Natural Hazards) 508
Headland-Bay Beach 508Luis J. Moreno
Health Benefits 511Roger H. Charlier and Marie-Claire P. Chaineux
Hindcasting (see Wave Hindcast) 515
History, Coastal Ecology 515J. Pat Doody
History, Coastal Geomorphology 519H. Jesse Walker and Molly McGraw
History, Coastal Protection 526Roger H. Charlier
Holocene Coastal Geomorphology 527Dieter Kelletat
Holocene Epoch 529Neil Roberts
Honeycomb Weathering 529George Mustoe
Hoodoos (see Coastal Hoodoos) 530
Human Impact on Coasts 530Richard A. Davis, Jr.
Hydrology of the Coastal Zone 535Diane Horn
Ice-Bordered Coasts 542H. Jesse Walker
Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Ecology 546Baban Ingole
Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Geomorphology 554G.N. Nayak
Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecologyand Geomorphology 557
M. Wafar, Sayeeda Wafar, and Prasanna Yennavar
Ingression, Regression, and Transgression 564Henry Bokuniewicz
Instrumentation (see Beach and Nearshore Instrumentation) 565
Isostasy 565Kurt Lambeck
Jet Probes 572Charles W. Finkl and Lindino A. Benedet
Journal Listing (see Appendix 2) 580
Karst Coasts 581Roland P. Paskoff
Klint 586Anto Raukas
Lagoons (see Coastal Lakes and Lagoons) 588
Landslides (see Mass Wasting) 588
Late Quaternary Marine Transgression 588Nils-Axel Mörner
Lifesaving and Beach Safety 589B. Chris Brewster
Light Detection and Ranging (LIDAR) (see Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping) 592
Litter (see Marine Debris) 592
Littoral 592Henry Bokuniewicz
Littoral Cells 594Douglas L. Inman
Littoral Drift Gradient 599Terry R. Healy
x CONTENTS
Log-Spiral Beach (see Headland-Bay Beach) 600
Longshore Sediment Transport 600Richard J. Seymour
Machair 601William Ritchie
Managed Retreat 602William J. Neal, David M. Bush, and Orrin H. Pilkey
Management (see Coastal Zone Management) 606
Mangroves, Ecology 606F. Blasco, M. Aizpuru, and J. Besnehard
Mangroves, Geomorphology 611Eric Bird
Mangroves, Remote Sensing 614F. Blasco, M. Aizpura, and D. Din Ndongo
Mapping Shores and Coastal Terrain 618Robert A. Morton
Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter 623A.T. Williams, D.T. Tudor and M.R. Gregory
Marine Parks 628Vincent May
Marine Terraces 632Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Mass Wasting 633Alan S. Trenhaile
Meteorological Effects on Coasts 636Gregory W. Stone and Robert A. Muller
Microtidal Coasts 638J. Andrew G. Cooper
Middens (see Shell Middens) 639
Middle America, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 639Alejandro Yáñez-Arancibia
Mining of Coastal Materials 645W.R. Osterkamp and R.A. Morton
Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution 647Douglas L. Inman, Scott A. Jenkins, and Patricia M. Masters
Modes and Patterns of Shoreline Change 651Francis A. Galgano and Stephen P. Leatherman
Monitoring Coastal Ecology 656J. Pat Doody
Monitoring Coastal Geomorphology 663Andrew Morang and Laurel T. Gorman
Muddy Coasts 674Terry R. Healy
Natural Hazards 678Vivian Gornitz
Navigation Structures 684Nicholas C. Kraus
Nearshore Geomorphological Mapping 685Charles W. Finkl
Nearshore Sediment Transport Measurement 698Ping Wang
Nearshore Wave Measurement 702Ping Wang and Gregory W. Stone
Net Transport 705Richard Seymour
New Zealand, Coastal Ecology 705Russell Cole and Conrad Pilditch
New Zealand, Coastal Geomorphology and Oceanography 709
Terry R. Healy
North America, Coastal Ecology 714Michael S. Kearney and J. Court Stevenson
North America, Coastal Geomorphology 721Douglas J. Sherman
Notches 728Dieter H. Kelletat
Numerical Modeling 730Magnus Larson
Oil Spills 734Erich R. Gundlach
Oil Spills, High-Energy Coasts 736William Ritchie
Offshore Sand Banks and Linear Sand Ridges 737Randolph A. McBride
Offshore Sand Sheets 739Michael S. Fenster
Organizations (see Appendix 3) 745
Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology 746Mark D. Merlin
Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology 754Patrick D. Nunn
Paleocoastlines 757John C. Kraft
Paraglacial Coasts 760Donald L. Forbes
Peat 762Ian Shennan
Periglacial (see Ice-Bordered Coasts) 764
PhotogrammetryE. Robert Thieler and Cheryl J. Hapke 764
Physical Models 769Michael S. Bruno
Placer Deposits 771Paul D. Komar
Pleistocene Epoch 772Dieter H. Kelletat
Pluvial Lake Shore Deposits 773Detlef A. Warnke and Hillert Ibbeken
Polders 778Joost H.J. Terwindt
Pressure Gradient Force 780George A. Maul
Profiling, Beach 781Nicholas C. Kraus
CONTENTS xi
RADARSAT-2 784Gordon C. Staples
Rating Beaches 785Stephen P. Leatherman
Reclamation 791P.P. Wong
Reefs, Non-Coral 795William T. Fox
Reflective Beaches 795Douglas J. Sherman
Remote Sensing of Coastal Environments 797Elijah W. Ramsey III
Remote Sensing: Wetlands Classification 804Victor Klemas
Rhythmic Patterns 807Paul D. Komar
Ria 810Eric Bird
Rip Currents 811Robert W. Brander
Ripple Marks 813Carl L. Amos and Patrick L. Friend
Rock Coast Processes 815Alan S. Trenhaile
Salt Marsh 819Terry R. Healy
Sampling Methods (see Monitoring, Coastal Ecology;Monitoring, Coastal Geomorphology) 820
Sand Rights 820Katherine Stone, Orville Magoon, Billy Edge,and Lesley Ewing
Sandy Coasts 821Andrew D. Short
Scour and Burial of Objects in Shallow Water 825Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins
Sea-Level Change (see Changing Sea Levels) 830
Sea-Level Changes During the Last Millennium 830Roland Gehrels
Sea-Level Datums (see Tidal Datums) 833
Sea-Level Indicators, Biologic 833Jacques Laborel and Françoise Laborel-Deguen
Sea-Level Indicators—Biological in Depositional Sequences 835
David B. Scott and Franco S. Medioli
Sea-Level Indicators, Geomorphic 836Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Sea-Level Rise, Effect 838James G. Titus
Sediment Analysis and Classification (see Beach SedimentCharacteristics) 846
Sediment Budget 846Jeffrey H. List
Sediment Suspension by Waves 850Rowland J. Atkins
Sediment Transport (see Cross-Shore Sediment Transport;Longshore Sediment Transport) 853
Sedimentary Basins 853Saskia Jelgersma
Seismic Displacement 859Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Sequence Stratigraphy 860Arthur D. Donovan
Setbacks 863Michael S. Fenster
Sharm Coasts 867Dieter H. Kelletat
Shelf Processes 867Alan W. Niedoroda
Shell Middens 870Sarah K. Campbell
Shingle Beach (see Gravel Beach) 873
Shore Platforms 873Wayne Stephenson and Robert Kirk
Shore Protection Structures 875Nicholas C. Kraus
Shoreface 877H. Edward Clifton
Simple Beach and Surf Zone Models 881John P. Ahrens
Sloughs (see Estuaries; Tidal Creeks) 883
Small Islands 883George Maul
Sociology, Beaches (see Beach Use and Behaviors) 888
South America, Coastal Ecology 888Simone Rabelo da Cunha, Omar Defeo, Anita de Alava, RosanaMoreira da Rocha, Beatrice Padovani Ferreira, Mauro Maida,Tognella-M.M.P. De-Rosa, Carlos Emilio Bemvenuti,Joel C. Creed and André S. Barreto
South America, Coastal Geomorphology 905Norbert P. Psuty and Chizuko Mizobe
Spits 909Takaaki Uda
Storm Surge 912Vivian Gornitz
Storms (see Meterological Effects) 914
Strandflat 914Tormod Klemsdal
Structures (see Shore Protection Structures;Navigation Structures) 915
Submarine Groundwater Discharge 915Steven L. Krupa and Cynthia J. Gefvert
xii CONTENTS
Submerged Coasts 922Wyss W.-S. Yim
Submerging Coasts 924Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Surf Modeling 925Marshall D. Earle
Surf Zone Processes 929William R. Dally
Surfing 936William R. Dally
Synthetic Aperture Radar Systems 937R. Keith Raney
Tafone 940George Mustoe
Tectonics and Neotectonics 941Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Thalassostatic Terraces 948Rhodes W. Fairbridge
Thalassotherapy (see Health Benefits) 949
Tidal Creeks 949Terry R. Healy
Tidal Datums 950Edward B. Hands
Tidal Environments 954B.W. Flemming
Tidal Inlets 958Duncan M. FitzGerald
Tidal Flats 965V. Semeniuk
Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts 975Congxian Li, Ping Wang, and Daidu Fan
Tidal Power 978Roger H. Charlier
Tidal Prism 981Terry M. Hume
Tide-Dominated Coasts 982Miles O. Hayes
Tide Gauges 984Guy Woppelmann and Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Tide Mill 986Roger H. Charlier
Tides 987Bruce Parker
Time Series Modeling 996V. Chris Lakhan
Topic Categories (see Appendix 6) 1001
Tors 1001Maurice Schwartz
Tourism and Coastal Development 1002Marc L. Miller and Nina P. Hadley
Tourism, Criteria for Coastal Sites 1009P.P. Wong
Tracers 1013Paolo Ciavola
Trottoirs 1017David Hopley
Tsunamis 1017Alastair Dawson
Uplift Coasts 1022Terry R. Healy
Vegetated Coasts 1024Denise J. Reed
Vibracore 1026Charles W. Finkl and Syed Khalil
Vorticity 1036George A. Maul
Volcanic Coasts 1038Terry R. Healy
Washover Effects 1041William Ritchie
Warfare (see Coastal Warfare) 1043
Water Quality 1043Katherine Pond
Wave and Tide-Dominated Coasts 1046Edward J. Anthony
Wave Climate 1049George Maul
Wave–Current Interaction 1052Patricia L. Wiberg
Wave-Dominated Coasts 1053Miles O. Hayes
Wave Environments 1056Andrew D. Short
Wave Focusing 1059Terry R. Healy
Wave Hindcasting 1060Dilip K. Barua
Wave Power 1063Roger H. Charlier
Wave Refraction Diagrams 1065Gerhard Masselink
Waves 1069Gerhard Masselink
Weathering in the Coastal Zone 1074Rhodes W. Fairbridge
Wetlands 1077Denise J. Reed
Wetland Restoration 1081William Streever
Appendix 1: Conversion Tables 1087
Appendix 2: Journals 1089Charles W. Finkl
Appendix 3: Organizations 1100Charles W. Finkl
CONTENTS xiii
Appendix 4: Databases 1145Pravin D. Kunte
Appendix 5: Glossary of Coastal Geomorphology 1155Eric Bird
Appendix 6: Topic Categories 1193Maurice Schwartz
Index 1197
xiv CONTENTS
John P. Ahrens6702 Springfield DriveMason Neck VA 22079USAPhone: 1 703 550 8412Fax: 1 301 713 0799e-mail: [email protected]
Depth of DisturbanceSimple Beach and Surf Zone Models
Marie AizpuruLaboratoire d’Ecologie Terrestre (UMR 5552)Centre de Teledetection13, avenue de Colonel Roche, BP 407231029 Toulouse Cedex 4France
Mangroves, EcologyMangroves, Remote Sensing
Anita de AlavaUDECIMAR, Facultad de CienciasIgua 4225,PO Box 107731140 MontevideoUruguay
South America, Coastal Ecology
Carl L. AmosSchool of Ocean and Earth ScienceSouthampton Oceanography CentreEmpress Dock, SouthamptonHampshire SO14 3ZHUKPhone: 44 023 80 596068Fax: 44 023 80 593059e-mail: [email protected]
Ripple Marks
Edward J. AnthonyCoastal Geomorphology and Shoreline
Management Unit JE 2208Universite du Littoral Côte d’OpaleMREN, 32 Avenue Foch, 62930 WimereuxFrancePhone: �33 3 28 26 01 22,Fax:�33 3 28 23 74 13e-mail: [email protected]
Beach ErosionWave and Tide-Dominated Coasts
Rowland J. AtkinsGolder Associates#204-4430 Chatterton WayVictoria BC V8X 5J2Canada
Contributors
Phone: 1 250 881 7372Fax: 1 250 881 7470e-mail: [email protected]
Sediment Suspension by Waves
Pieter G.E.F. AugustinusDepartment of Physical GeographyUniversity of UtrechtHeidelberglaan 2PO Box 80.115Utrecht 3508 TCThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 30 2532777Fax: 31 30 2531145e-mail: [email protected]
Dikes
Jean-Christophe AznarDesmid-CNRS1, rue Parmentier13200 ArlesFrancePhone: 04 90 93 86 86e-mail: alderv.desmid.wanadoo.fr
Desalination
Martin J. BaptistWl/delft hydraulicsRotterdamseweg 185DelftThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 15 285 8585Fax: 31 15 285 8582e-mail: [email protected]
Biogeomorphology
André BarretoUniversidade do Vale ItajaiCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarRua Uruguai, 458Itajai SCBrasil CEP: 88302-202e-mail: [email protected]
South America, Coastal Ecology
Dilip K. Barua3370 East 45th AvenueVancouver, BC V5R 3E7CanadaPhone: 604 871 1594e-mail: [email protected]
Beaufort Wind ScaleCoastal Upwelling and Downwelling
Wave Hindcasting
Daniel F. BelknapDepartment of Earth SciencesUniversity of MaineOrono ME 04469USAPhone: 1 207 581 2159Fax: 1 207 581 2202e-mail: [email protected]
Alluvial-Plain CoastsGlaciated Coasts
Carlos Emilio BemvenutiFundação Universidade Federa do Rio
Grande (FURG)Departmento De OceanografiaCP 474, Rio GrandeBrasil, CEP: 96201-900e-mail: [email protected]
South America, Coastal Ecology
Lindino A. BenedetCoastal Planning and Engineering, Inc.2481 West Boca Raton BoulevardBoca Raton FL 33431USA
Jet Probes
Jérôme BesnehardTOTAL FINA ELF-DGEP/AEO2, place de la Coupole-la Defence 692078 Paris La Defence cedexFrance
Mangrove, Ecology
Eric BirdGeostudies343 Beach RoadBlack Rock, Victoria 3193MelbourneAustraliaPhone: 61 3 9589 3738Fax: 61 3 9589 3738e-mail: [email protected]
Australia, Coastal Geomorphology BarrierCoastline Changes
Drift and Swash AlignmentsGlossary of Coastal Geomorphology
EolianiteMangroves, Coastal Geomorphology
Ria Coasts
William A. BirkemeierUS Army Corps of EngineersEngineer Research and Development Center1261 Duck Road, Kitty Hawk NC 27949USA
Depth of Closure on Sandy Beaches
François BlascoLaboratoire d’Ecologie TerrestreUMR 5552-BP407231029 Toulouse Cedex 4, FrancePhone: 33 5 61 55 85 43Fax: 33 5 61 55 85 44e-mail: [email protected]
Mangroves, EcologyMangroves, Remote Sensing
Alan F. BlumbergHydroQual, Inc.1200 MacArthur Blvd.Mahwah NJ 07430,USAPhone: 201 529 5151
Cohesive Sediment Transport
Shawn M. BoeserUnited NationsOCHA Humanitarian Information Centre
Liberiae-mail: [email protected]
Geographic Information SystemsGlobal Positioning Systems
Henry BokuniewiczMarine Sciences Research CenterState University of New YorkStony Brook NY 11794USAPhone: 1 631 632 8674Fax: 1 631 632 8820e-mail: [email protected]
Endogenic and Exogenic FactorsIngression, Regression, Transgression
Littoral
Robert W. BranderSchool of Biological Earth and Environmental SciencesUniversity of New South WalesSydney NSW 2052AustraliaPhone: 61 2 9385 1558Fax: 61 2 9385 2899e-mail: [email protected]
Rip Currents
B. Chris BrewsterUnited States Life Saving Association3850 Sequoia StreetSan Diego, CA 92109–6518USAPhone: 858 581 1221Fax: 720 535 3274e-mail: [email protected]
Lifesaving and Beach Safety
Helmut BrücknerDepartment of GeographyUniversity of MarburgDeutschhausstr. 10D-35032 MarburgGermanyPhone: �49 06421 282 4261Fax: �49 06421 282 8950e-mail: [email protected]
Geochronology
Michael BrunoDavidson LaboratoryStevens Institute of TechnologyCastle Point on HudsonHoboken NJ 07030USAPhone: 1 201 216 5338Fax: 1 201 216 8214e-mail: [email protected]
Physical Models
Per Bruun32 Baynard Cove RoadHilton Head Island, SC 29928USAPhone: 1 843 671 3862Fax: 1 843 785 1154
Beach DrainBypassing at Littoral Drift BarriersDredging of Coastal Environments
David M. BushDepartment of GeologyState University of West GeorgiaCarrollton GA 30118USA
Managed Retreat
Ilya V. BuynevichDepartment of Earth SciencesBoston UniversityBoston MA 02215USA
xvi CONTRIBUTORS
Phone: 1 617 353 2530Fax: 1 617 353 3290e-mail: [email protected]
Ground-Penetrating RadarGillian CambersPO Box 783, RinconPuerto Rico 00677, USAPhone: 1 787 832 3585Fax: 1 787 265 2880e-mail: [email protected]
Caribbean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology
Sarah K. CampbellDepartment of AnthropologyWestern Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 4793Fax: 1 360 650 7668e-mail: [email protected]
Shell MiddensMarie-Claire P. ChaineaurInstitute for Development, Research, and Enquiry in Coastal Zone Studies
Brussels, BelgiumHealth Benefits
Roger H. CharlierFree University of BrusselsBrusselsBelgium B-1050Phone: 32 2 649 0755Fax: 32 2 649 0755e-mail: [email protected]
[email protected] Benefits
History, Coastal ProtectionTidal Power
Tide MillWave Power
Zhongyuan ChenDepartment of GeographyEast China Normal UniversityShanghai 200062ChinaPhone: 86 21 62232706/62233303Fax: 86 21 62232466/62756217e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal SubsidenceJiyu ChenDepartment of GeographyEast China Normal UniversityShanghai 200062Chinae-mail: [email protected]
Dams, Effect on CoastsBénédicte CherbuyCEFE-CNRSRoute de Mende34000 MontpellierFrancePhone: 04 67 61 32 74Fax: 04 67 41 06 16e-mail: [email protected]
DesalinationMichael J. ChrzastowskiIllinois State Geological Survey615 East Peabody DriveChampaign IL 61820-6964USAPhone: 1 217 244 2194Fax: 1 217 244 0029e-mail: [email protected]
Beach Features
Paolo CiavolaDipartimento di Scienze Della Terra
Università di FerraraCorso Ercole l d’Este, 32444100 Ferrara, ItalyPhone: 39 0532 293720Fax: 39 0532 206468e-mail: [email protected]
H. Edward CliftonUS Geological Survey345 Middlefield Rd., MS 999Menlo Park CA 94025USAPhone: 1 650 964 1552e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Sedimentary FaciesShoreface
Russell G. ColeNIWARPO Box 893, NelsonNew ZealandPhone: 64 3 548 1715Fax: 64 3 548 1716e-mail: [email protected]
New Zealand, Coastal Ecology
J. Andrew G. CooperEnvironmental StudiesUniversity of UlsterColeraine, Co. LondonderryBT52 1SA, Northern IrelandUKPhone: 44 1265 324429Fax: 44 1265 324911e-mail: [email protected]
Microtidal CoastsCarrying Capacity in Coastal Areas
P.J. CowellCoastal Studies UnitDepartment of GeographyUniversity of SydneySydney NSW 2006AustraliaPhone: 61 2 9351 2189Fax: 61 2 9351 3644e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Changes, Gradual
Stephen J. Craig-SmithSchool of Tourism and Leisure ManagementUQ Business SchoolThe University of QueenslandIpswich, Qld 4305AustraliaPhone: 61 7 3381 1007Fax: 61 7 3381 1012e-mail: [email protected]
Cuspate Forelands
Joel C. CreedUniversidade do Estado do Rio de JaneiroDepartmento de Ecologia-IBRAGPHLC Sala 220Rua São Francisco Xavier 524Reo de Janeiro RJBrasilCEP: 20559-900e-mail: [email protected]
South America, Coastal Ecology
Mark CrowellOffice of MitigationFederal Emergency Management AgencyWashington DC 20742USAe-mail: [email protected]
Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting
CONTRIBUTORS xvii
Simone Rabelo da CunhaUniversidade do Vale de ItajaiCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarRua Uruguai, 458, Itajai, SCBrasil, CEP: 88302-202Phone/Fax: 55 407 341 7715e-mail: [email protected]
South America, Coastal Ecology
William R. DallySurfbreak Engineering Services, Inc1010 Atlantic St., Suite A-2Melbourne Beach FL 32951USAPhone: 1 407 733 2296Fax: 1 407 733 2298e-mail: [email protected]
Surf Zone ProcessesSurfing
Robin Davidson-ArnottDepartment of GeographyUniversity of GuelphGuelph ON N1G 2W1CanadaPhone: 1 519 824 4120 ext 6719Fax: 1 519 837 9140e-mail: [email protected]
Beach and Nearshore Instrumentation
Richard A. Davis Jr.Department of GeologyUniversity of South FloridaTampa FL 33620USAPhone: 1 813 974 2773Fax: 1 813 974 2654e-mail: [email protected]
Human Impact on Coasts
Alastair DawsonCentre for Quaternary ScienceWilliam Morros BuildingCoventry University, Priory St.Coventry CV1 5FBUKe-mail: [email protected]
Tsunamis
Robert G. DeanDepartment of Coastal and Ocean EngineeringUniversity of FloridaGainesville FL 32611-6590USAPhone: 1 352 392 2416Fax: 1 352 392 3466e-mail: [email protected]
Dynamic Equilibrium of Beaches
Omar DefeoUNDECIMAR, Facultad de CienciasIgua 4225PO Box 1077311400 MontevideoUruguay
South America, Coastal Ecology
Henry F. DiazNOAA/OAR/CDC325 Broadway, Boulder CO 80303USAFax: 1 303 497 7013e-mail: [email protected]
El Niño–Southern Oscillation
John R. DinglerUS Geological Survey MS-999345 Middlefield RoadMenlo Park CA 94025USA
Phone: 1 650 329 5069Fax: 1 650 329 5190e-mail: [email protected].
[email protected] Processes
Yuri DolotovInstitute of Water ProblemsLaboratory of HydrodynamicsRussian Academy of SciencesLenin Prospect 14, Moscow 117901RussiaFax: 7 095 135 54 15
Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology
Arthur D. DonovanBritish PetroleumUTG, Room 810PO Box 4587Houston TX 77210USACell: 1 832 725 4028Phone: 1 281 366 5198Fax: 1 281 366 7416e-mail: [email protected]
Sequence Stratigraphy
J. Pat DoodyNational Coastal Consultants5 Green LaneBrampton, HuntingdonCambs. PE 28 4REUKPhone: 44 1480 392 706e-mail: [email protected]
Europe, Coastal EcologyHistory, Coastal Ecology
Monitoring Coastal Ecology
Bruce DouglasLaboratory for Coastal ResearchFlorida International UniversityMiami FL 33199USA
Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting
Iver W. DuedallCollege of EngineeringFlorida Institute of Technology150, West University BoulevardMelbourne FL 32901-6900USAe-mail: [email protected]
Demography of Coastal Populations
Marshall D. EarleNeptune Sciences, Inc.12310 Pinecrest Rd.Suite 203, Reston VA 20191USAPhone: 1 703 620 5858Fax: 1 703 620 3900e-mail: [email protected]
Surf Modeling
Billy L. EdgeDepartment of Civil EngineeringTexas A&M UniversityCollege Station TX 77845USAPhone: 1 409 847 8712e-mail: [email protected]
Sand Rights
Karen EdyvaneSchool of Geography & Environmental StudiesUniversity of TasmaniaPrivate Bag 78, Hobart
xviii CONTRIBUTORS
Tasmania 7001AustraliaPhone: 61 3 6226 2205Fax: 61 3 6226 2989e-mail: [email protected]
Australia, Coastal Ecology
D. EismaNetherlands Institute for Sea ResearchPO Box 59Den Burg, TexelThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 72 58 947 36Fax: 31 72 58 947 36
Asia, Eastern, Coastal Geomorphology
Lesley C. EwingCSPBA, c/o California Coastal Commission45 Fremont St., Suite 2000San Francisco CA 94105USAPhone: 1 415 904 5291Fax: 1 415 904 5400e-mail: [email protected]
Sand Rights
Rhodes W. FairbridgeCenter for Climate Systems ResearchGoddard Institute for Space Studies/NASAColumbia University2880 BroadwayNew York NY 10025USAPhone: w 1 212 663 8793Fax: w 1 212 678 5552Phone: s 1 516 267 8329Fax: s 1 516 267 8329e-mail: [email protected]
Asteroid-Impact CoastsThalassostatic Terraces
Weathering in the Coastal Zone
Daidu FanMarine Geology LaboratoryTongji University, Shanghai 200092People’s Republic of ChinaPhone: 86 21 65982208Fax: 86 21 65025320e-mail: [email protected]
Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts
Michael S. FensterEnvironmental Studies ProgramRandolph-Macon CollegeAshland VA 23005USAPhone: 1 804 752 3745Fax: 1 804 752 4724e-mail: [email protected]
Offshore Sand SheetsSetbacks
Beatrice Padovani FerreiraUniversidade Federal de PernambucoDepartmento de OceanografiaAv. Arquitetura S/NRecife PEBrazil CEP: 50740-550e-mail: [email protected]
South America, Coastal Ecology
Charles W. FinklCPE Coastal Geology and Geomatics2481 N.W. Boca Raton Blvd.Boca Rton, FL 33431USAPhone: 561 391 8102
Fax: 561 391 9116e-mail: [email protected]
Beach NourishmentCoastal Soils
Jet ProbesJournals
Nearshore Geomorphological MappingOrganizations
Vibracore
Duncan M. FitzGeraldDepartment of Earth SciencesBoston UniversityBoston MA 02215USAPhone: 1 617 353 2530Fax: 1 617 353 3290e-mail: [email protected]
Ground-Penetrating RadarTidal Inlets
B.W. FlemmingSenckenberg InstituteSchleusen street 39AD-26382 WilhelmshavenGermanyPhone: 49 4421 9475 36Fax: 49 4421 9475 50e-mail: [email protected]
Tidal Environments
Donald L. ForbesGeological Survey of CanadaAtlantic Geoscience CentreBedford Institute of OceanographyPO Box 1006, DartmouthNova Scotia B2Y 4A2CanadaPhone: 902 426 7737Fax: 902 425 4104e-mail: [email protected]
Paraglacial Coasts
William T. FoxDepartment of GeologyCenter for Environmental StudiesWilliams CollegeWilliamstown MA 01267USAPhone: 1 413 597 3927Fax: 1 413 597 3489e-mail: [email protected]
BioconstructionBioerosion
Reefs, Non-Coral
Peter W. FrenchDepartment of GeographyRoyal HollowayUniversity of LondonEgham, Surrey, TW20 0EXUKPhone: 44 1784 44 35 71Fax: 44 1784 47 28 36e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Zone Management
Patrick L. FriendSchool of Ocean and Earth SciencesSouthampton Oceanography CentreEmpress Dock, SouthamptonHampshire SO14 3ZHUK
Ripple Marks
Francis A. GalganoDepartment of Geography and
Environmental EngineeringUnited States Military Academy
CONTRIBUTORS xix
West Point NY 10996USAPhone: 1 914 938 4035Fax: 1 914 938 3339e-mail: [email protected]
Modes and Patterns of Shoreline Change
Cynthia J. GefvertSouth Florida Water Management District3301 Gun Club RoadWest Palm Beach FL 33406USAPhone: 1 561 682 6923Fax: 1 561 682 5923e-mail: [email protected]
Submarine Groundwater Discharge
Roland GehrelsQuaternary Environments Research GroupDepartment of Geographical SciencesUniversity of Plymouth, Plymouth PL4 8AAUKPhone: 44 1752 233079Fax: 44 1752 233054e-mail: [email protected]
Sea-Level Changes During theLast Millennium
Guy GelfenbaumUS Geological SurveyCoastal and Marine Geology Program, MS 999345 Middlefield RoadMenlo Park CA 94025USAPhone: 1 650 329-5483Fax: 1 650 329 5190e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Currents
Laurel T. GormanInformation Technology LaboratoryUS Army Waterways Experiment Station3909 Halls Ferry Rd.Vicksburg MS 39180USAPhone: 601 634 4484e-mail: [email protected]
Monitoring Coastal Geomorphology
Vivian GornitzCenter for Climate Systems ResearchColumbia UniversityNew York NY 10025USAe-mail: [email protected]
EustasyNatural Hazards
Storm Surge
Peter H.F. Graber138 Altura WayGreenbrae CA 94904USAPhone: 1 415 461 9032Fax: 1 415 461 8338e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Boundaries
David GreenlandDepartment of GeographyLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge LA 70803USAe-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Climate
Brian GreenwoodDivision of Physical Sciences
Scarborough CampusUniversity of Toronto1265 Military TrailScarborough ON M1C 1A4
CanadaPhone: 1 416 287 7326Fax: 1 416 287 7204e-mail: [email protected]
Bars
Murray R. GregoryDepartment of GeologyUniversity of AucklandPrivate Bag 92019AucklandNew Zealande-mail: [email protected]
Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter
Eric R. GundlachE-Tech International Inc.PO Box 2976Acton MA 01720-6976USAPhone: 1 978 264 9682Fax: 1 978 264 1926e-mail: [email protected]
Oil Spills
Peter L. GuthDepartment of OceanographyUS Naval Academy572 Holloway RoadAnnapolis, MD 21402-5026USAPhone: 1 410 293 6560Fax: 1 410 293 2137e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Warfare
Nina P. HadleyTidal Delta Consulting5632 1/2 20th Avenue NESeattle WA 98105USAPhone: 1 206 527 0885e-mail: [email protected]
Tourism and Coastal Development
Kevin R. HallDepartment of Civil EngineeringCentre for Water and the EnvironmentQueens UniversityKingston ON K7L 3N6CanadaPhone: 613 533 2127Fax: 613 533 2128e-mail: [email protected]
Bioengineered Shore Protection
Jean-François HamelSociety for the Exploration and Valuing of
the Environment (SEVE)655 rue de la RivièreKatevale, Quebec J0B 1WOCanadaPhone: 819 843 3466Fax: 819 843 3466e-mail: [email protected]
Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal EcologyArctic, Coastal Ecology
Guoqi HanNorthwest Atlantic Fisheries CentreFisheries and Oceans CanadaPO Box 5667St. John’s, NF A1C 5X1Canada
xx CONTRIBUTORS
Phone: 709 772 4326Fax: 709 772 4105e-mail: [email protected]
Altimeter Surveys, Coastal Tides and Shelf Circulation
Edward B. Hands2 Bugle Ridge RoadVicksburg MS 39180-4314USAe-mail: [email protected]
Tidal Datums
Jim D. HansomDepartment of Geography and Topographic ScienceUniversity of GlasgowGlasgow G12 8QQScotlandUKPhone: 44 0141 330 5406Fax: 44 0141 330 4894e-mail: [email protected]
Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal GeomorphologyBoulder Pavement
Cheryl J. HapkeUSGS, Pacific Science Center1156, High St.Santa Cruz CA 95064USA
Photogrammetry
Miles O. HayesResearch Planning, Inc.PO Box 3281121 Park StreetColumbia SC 29202USAPhone: 1 803 256 7322Fax: 1 803 254 6445e-mail: [email protected]
Barrier IslandsTide-Dominated Coasts
Wave-Dominated Coasts
Terry R. HealyEarth Sciences DepartmentUniversity of WaikatoHamiltonNew ZealandPhone: 64 7 8384061Fax: 64 7 8560115e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Wind EffectsDune Ridges
EstuariesLittoral Drift Gradient
Muddy CoastsNew Zealand, Coastal Geomorphology
Salt MarshTidal CreeksUplift Coasts
Volcanic CoastsWave Focusing
Patrick A. HespDepartment of Geography and AnthroplogyLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge, LA 70803–4105USAPhone: 1 225 578–6244Fax: 1 225 578–4420e-mail: [email protected]
Eolian Processes
Frank M.J. HoozemansWL/Delft Hydraulics2600 MH Delft
The NetherlandsPhone: 31 15 285 85 05Fax: 31 15 285 87 18e-mail: [email protected]
Global Vulnerability Analysis
David HopleyCoastal and Marine Consultancies Pty Ltd3 Wingadee CourtAnnandaleTownsville QLD 4814AustraliaPhone: 61 7 4725 2832Fax: 61 7 4779 1400e-mail: [email protected]
AtollsCays
Coral ReefsCoral Reefs, Emerged
Trottoirs
Diane P. HornSchool of GeographyBirbeck CollegeUniversity of LondonMalet StreetLondon WC1E 7HXEnglandUKPhone: 171 631 6480Fax: 171 631 6498e-mail: [email protected]
Hydrology of Coastal Zone
James R. HoustonCoastal Engineering Research CenterUSAE Waterways Experiment Station3909 Halls Ferry Rd.Vicksburg MS 39180USAPhone: 1 601 634 2000Fax: 1 601 634 2818e-mail: [email protected]
Geohydraulic Research Centers
John R.C. HsuDepartment of Marine Environment and EngineeringNational Sun Yat-Sen University70 Lien-Hai RoadKaohsiung City 80424TaiwanPhone: 886 7 525 2000 ext 5076Fax: 16 886 7 525 5060e-mail: [email protected]
Engineering Applications of Coastal Geomorphology
Terry M. HumeWater Quality CentreDSIR-Marine and FreshwaterDepartment of Scientific and Industrial ResearchPO Box 11-155HamiltonNew ZealandPhone: 64 7 8561729Fax: 64 7 8560151e-mail: [email protected]
Tidal Prism
Hillert IbbekenInstutut fur. Geologie, Geophysik und GeoinformatikFree University of BerlinMalteser street 74-100, D-12249BerlinGermany
Pluvial Lake Shore Deposits
Baban IngoleBiology Division
CONTRIBUTORS xxi
National Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa 403004Indiae-mail: [email protected]
Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Ecology
Douglas L. InmanDepartment of Center for Coastal StudiesScripps Institution of OceanographyUniversity of California, San DiegoLa Jolla CA 92093 0209USAPhone: 1 858 534 4334Fax: 1 858 534 0300e-mail: [email protected]
Accretion and Erosion Waves on BeachesClimate Patterns in the Coastal Zone
Energy and Sediment Budgets of the Global Coastal ZoneLittoral Cells
Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal EvolutionScour and Burial of Objects in Shallow Water
Nancy L. JacksonEnvironment Policy StudiesNew Jersy Institute of TechnologyUniversity HeightsNewark NJ 071012USAPhone: 1 973 596 8467Fax: 1973 642 4689e-mail: [email protected]
Developed Coasts
Saskia JelgersmaElzenlaan 6Bergen aan Zee 1865 BMThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 72 5894370Fax: 31 72 5894370
Sedimentary Basins
Scott A. JenkinsCenter for Coastal StudiesScripps Institution of OceanographyUniversity of California, San DiegoLa Jolla CA 92093-0209USAPhone: 858 534 6480Fax: 858 534 0300e-mail: [email protected]
Accretion and Erosion Waves on BeachesClimate Patterns in the Coastal Zone
Energy and Sediment Budgets of the Global Coastal ZoneModeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution
Scour and Burial of Objects in Shallow Water
Lucille Lewis JohnsonDepartment of AnthropologyMail Drop 375Vassar CollegePoughkeepsie NY 12601USAPhone: 1 914 (845) 437 5507Fax: 1 914 (845) 437 7287e-mail: [email protected]
Archaeology
Pavel A. KaplinDepartment of GeographyMoscow State UniversityMoscow 119899RussiaPhone: 095 9392152Fax: 095 9392123
Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology
Michael S. KearneyDepartment of Geography
University of MarylandCollege Park MD 20742USAPhone: 1 301 405 4057Fax: 1 301 314 9299e-mail: [email protected]
North America, Coastal Ecology
Dieter H. KelletatUniversität-GH EssenFB9-PhysiogeographieUniversitaetsstrasse 15Essen 1 D-45117GermanyPhone: 49 201 183 3162Fax: 49 201 183 2811e-mail: [email protected]
Dalmatian CoastsEurope, Coastal Geomorphology
Geographical Coastal ZonalityHolocene Coastal Geomorphology
NotchesPleistocene Epoch
Sharm Coasts
Michael J. KennishInstitute of Marine and Coastal SciencesRutgers UniversityNew Brunswick NJ 08901-8521USAPhone: 1 732 932 8959 ext 240Fax: 1 732 932 6557e-mail: [email protected]
Environmental QualityEstuaries, Anthropogenic Impacts
Syed KhalilCoastal Restoration DivisionOffice of Coastal Restoration and ManagementLouisiana Department of Natural Resources617 North 3rd St., PO Box 44027Baton Rouge, LA 70804-4027USAPhone: 1 225 342 7308e-mail: [email protected]
Vibracore
Robert KirkDepartment of GeographyUniversity of CanterburyPrivate Bag 4800ChristchurchNew ZealandPhone: 64 3 3642 893Fax: 64 3 3642 2586e-mail: [email protected]
Shore Platforms
Victor KlemasCollege of Marine StudiesUniversity of DelawareNewark DE 19716USAPhone: 1 302 831 8256Fax: 1 302 831 6838e-mail: [email protected]
Remote Sensing: Wetlands Classification
Tormod KlemsdalDepartment of GeographyUniversity of OsloPO Box 1042 BlindernN-0316 Oslo NorwayPhone: 47 22 856931Fax: 47 22 857230e-mail: [email protected]
Strandflat
xxii CONTRIBUTORS
Paul D. KomarCollege of Oceanic and Atmospheric SciencesOregon State UniversityCorvallis OR 97331 5503USAPhone: 1 541 737 5210Fax: 1 541 737 2064e-mail: [email protected]
Placer DepositsRhythmic Patterns
John C. KraftDepartment of GeologyUniversity of DelawareNewark DE 19716USAPhone: 1 610 287 9385
1 302 831 8706Fax: 1 302 831 4158e-mail: [email protected]
Paleocoastlines
Nicholas C. KrausU.S. Army, Coastal Hydraulics LaboratoryVicksburg MS 39180USAPhone: 1 601 634 2016Fax: 1 601 634 3080e-mail: [email protected]
Beach ProfileNavigation Structures
Profiling, BeachShore Protection Structures
Steven L. KrupaSouth Florida Water Discharge Management District33012 Gun Club RoadWest Palm Beach FL 33406USAPhone: 1 561 682 6923Fax: 1 561 682 6442e-mail: [email protected]
[email protected] Groundwater
Discharge
Mark A. KulpDepartment of Geology and GeophysicsUniversity of New OrleansNew Orleans LA 70148USAPhone: 1 504 280 3119Fax: 1 504 280 7396e-mail: [email protected]
Deltas
Pravin D. KunteNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa 403004IndiaPhone: 91 (0)832 221322, 226253 ext 4387Fax: 91 (0)832 223340, 229102e-mail: [email protected]
Jacques LaborelUMR DIMAR, Université de la MéditerranéeCase 901, Faculté des Sciences de LuminyF13288 Marseille, Cedex 9FrancePhone: 33 91 283 6032e-mail: [email protected]
Algal RimsBioherms and Biostromes
Sea-Level Indicators, Biologic
Françoise Laborel-DeguenUMR DIMAR, Université de la Méditerranée
Case 901, Faculté des Sciences de LuminyF13288 Marseille, Cedex 9France
Sea-Level Indicators, Biologic
V. Chris LakhanDepartment of Earth SciencesSchool of Physical SciencesUniversity of WindsorWindsor, OntarioCanada N9B 3P4Phone: 1 519 253 4232 ext 2183Fax: 1 519 253 6214/973 7081e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Modeling and SimulationTime Series Modeling
Kurt LambeckResearch School of Earth SciencesAustralian National UniversityCanberra ACT 0200Australiae-mail: [email protected]
Isostasy
Magnus LarsonDepartment of Water Resources EngineeringUniversity of LundBox 118S-221 00 LundSwedenPhone: 46 46 222 8729Fax: 46 46 222 4435e-mail: [email protected]
Numerical Modeling
Stephen P. LeathermanLaboratory for Coastal Research & International
Hurricane CenterFlorida International University10555 West Flagler St.Miami FL 33199USAPhone: 1 305 348 6304Fax: 1 305 348 1605e-mail: [email protected]
Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping and Light Detection and Ranging
Erosion: Historical Analysis and ForecastingModes and Patterns of Shoreline Change
Rating Beaches
Congxian LiMarine Geology LaboratoryTongji UniversityShanghai 200092People’s Republic of ChinaPhone: 86 21 65982208Fax: 86 21 65025320e-mail: [email protected]
Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts
Jeffrey H. ListUS Geological Survey384 Woods Hole RoadWoods Hole MA 02543USAPhone: 1 508 457 2343Fax: 1 508 457 2310e-mail: [email protected]
Sediment Budget
Donald MacintoshDepartment of Ecology and GeneticsUniversity of AarhusAarhus C DK-8000Denmarke-mail: [email protected]
Asia, Eastern, Coastal Ecology
CONTRIBUTORS xxiii
M. MacLeodDepartment of Natural Resource EconomicsScottish Agricultural CollegeEdinburgh EH9 3JGScotlandUKPhone: 0131 535 4387Fax: 0131 667 2601e-mail: [email protected]
Carrying Capacity in Coastal Areas
Molly McGrawDepartment of Geography and AnthropologyLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge LA 70803USAPhone: 225 578 6130Fax: 225 578 4420e-mail: [email protected]
History, Coastal Geomorphology
Orville T. MagoonCoastal Zone FoundationPO Box 279Middletown CA 95461USAPhone: 1 707 987 2358 ext 207Fax: 1 707 987 9351e-mail: [email protected]
Sand Rights
Mauro MaidaUniversidade Federal de PernambucoDepartmento de OceanografiaAv. Arquitetura S/NRecife PEBrasilCEP: 50740-550
South America, Coastal Ecology
Gerhard MasselinkDepartment of GeographyLoughborough UniversityLoughborough LE11 3TUUKPhone: 15 9 222746Fax: 15 9 223930e-mail: [email protected]
Wave Refraction DiagramsWaves
Patricia M. MastersUniversity of California, San DiegoScripps Institution of OceanographyLa Jolla CA 92093-0309USAPhone: 1 858 534 4334Fax: 1 858 534 0300e-mail: [email protected]
Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution
George A. MaulCollege of EngineeringFlorida Institute of Technology150, West University BoulevardMelbourne FL 32901-6988USAPhone: 1 407 674 7453Fax: 1 407 674 7212e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Temperature TrendsDemography of Coastal Population
Pressure Gradient ForceSmall Islands
VorticityWave Climate
Vincent MayDepartment of Conservation Sciences
Bournemouth UniversityTalbot CampusFern BarrowPoole Dorset BH12 5BBUKPhone: 44 1202 595178Fax: 44 1202 595255e-mail: [email protected]
Chalk CoastsConservation of Coastal Sites
Marine Parks
Randolph A. McBrideDepartment of Geography and Earth ScienceGeorge Mason UniversityFairfax VA 22030USAPhone: 1 703 993 1642Fax: 1 703 993 1216e-mail: [email protected]
[email protected] Sand Banks and Linear Sand Ridges
John McKennaCoastal Studies Research GroupSchool of Environmental StudiesUniversity of UlsterColeraine BT52 1SANorthern IrelandUKPhone: 44 28 70 324055Fax: 44 28 70 324911e-mail: [email protected]
Boulder Beaches
Anton McLachlanCollege of ScienceSultan Qaboos UniversityPO Box 36, SQU 123OmanPhone: 968 515400Fax: 968 513415e-mail: [email protected]
Africa, Coastal Ecology
Andrew McMinnInstitute of Antarctic and Southern Ocean StudiesUniversity of TasmaniaGPO Box 252-77, Hobart 7001TasmaniaAustraliaPhone: 61 3 6226 2980Fax: 61 3 6226 2973e-mail: [email protected]
Antarctica, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology
Franco S. MedioliCentre for Marine GeologyDalhousie UniversityHalifaxNova Scotia B3H3J5Canadae-mail: [email protected]
Sea-Level Indicators—Biological in Depositional Sequences
Annie MercierSociety for the Exploration and Valuing of the
Environment (SEVE)655 rue de la RivièreKatevale, Quebec J0B 1WOCanadaPhone: 819 843 3466Fax: 819 843 3466e-mail: [email protected]
Arctic, Coastal EcologyAtlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology
xxiv CONTRIBUTORS
Mark D. MerlinBiology ProgramDean Hall, rm. 2University of Hawaii at MãnoaHonolulu, Hawaii 96822USAe-mail: [email protected]
Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology
Marc L. MillerSchool of Marine AffairsUniversity of WashingtonSeattle WA 98195USAe-mail: [email protected]
Tourism and Coastal Development
Chizuko MizobeSandy Hook Cooperative Research Institute74 Magruder RoadInstitute of Marine Coastal SciencesRutgers UniversityHighlands NJ 07732USA
South America,Coastal Geomorphology
Ram K. MohanBlasland, Bouck & Lee, Inc.100 Four Falls Corp Center, Suite 106W. Conshohocken PA 19428–2950USAPhone: 848 530 9119Fax: 848 530 9118e-mail: [email protected]
Capping of Contaminated Coastal AreasGeotextile Applications
Luis J. Moreno(Despacho C-276)Subdirección General de Actuaciones en la CostaDirección General de CostasSecretaría de Estado de Aguas y CostasMinisterio de Medio AmbientePlaza de San Juan de la Cruz, s/n28071 MadridSpainPhone: 34 91 597 6870Fax: 34 91 597 5924e-mail: [email protected]
Headland-Bay Beach
Andrew MorangCERC, US Army Waterways Experiment Station3909 Halls Ferry RoadVicksburg MS 39180USAPhone: 1 601 634 2064Fax: 1 601 634 3080e-mail: [email protected]
Depth of Closure on Sandy CoastsMonitoring Coastal Geomorphology
Nils-Axel MörnerPaleogeophysics and GeodynamicsStockholm UniversityS-10691 StockholmSwedenPhone: 46 8 770 6771Fax: 46 8 790 6777e-mail: [email protected]
Changing Sea LevelsLate Quaternary Marine Transgression
Robert A. MortonUS Geological SurveyCenter for Coastal Geology600 Fourth St. SouthSt. Petersburg FL 33701-4846USA
Phone: 1 727 803 8747 ext 3080Fax: 1 727 803 2032e-mail: [email protected]
Mapping Shores and Coastal TerrainMining of Coastal Materials
Robert A. MullerCoastal Studies InstituteLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge LA 70803USA
Meteorological Effects on Coasts
Gisèle Muller-ParkerDepartment of BiologyWestern Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 4885Fax: 1 360 650 7284e-mail: [email protected]
Coral Reef Islands
George MustoeDepartment of Geology, MS 9080Western Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 3585Fax: 1 360 650 7302e-mail: [email protected]
Honeycomb WeatheringTafone
C.G.R. NairScience, Technology and Environment DepartmentUniversity of KeralaTrivandrum -14, KeralaIndiaPhone: 11 91 471 323545e-mail: [email protected]
Geotextile Applications
G.N. NayakDepartment of Marine SciencesGoa UniversityGoa, 403 203IndiaPhone: 91 832 221375 ext 262Fax: 91 832 224184e-mail: [email protected]
Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Geomorphology
Daniel Din NdongoDepartement de Biologie Vegetale - BP 24157Universite de DoualaDouala, Cameroun
Mangroves, Remote Sensing
William J. NealDepartment of GeologyGrand Valley State UniversityAllendale MI 49401USA
Managed Retreat
Robert J. NichollsCoastal GeomorphologyMidlesex UniversityQueensway Enfield EN3 4SFUKPhone: 44 181 362 5569Fax: 44 181 362 6957e-mail: [email protected]
Global Vulnerability Analysis
Alan W. NiedorodaURS Corporation3676 Hartsfield RoadTallahassee FL 32303USA
CONTRIBUTORS xxv
Phone: 1 850 574 3197Fax: 1 850 576 3676e-mail: [email protected]
Continental ShelvesShelf Processes
Yaacov Nir15 Shimeoni St.Rehovot 76248, IsraelPhone: 972 8 0468862Fax: 972 8 0468862e-mail: [email protected]
[email protected] Wells
Karl F. NordstromInstitute of Marine and Coastal SciencesRutgers University71 Dudley RoadNew Brunswick NJ 08901-8521USAPhone: 1 732 932 6555 ext 502e-mail: [email protected]
Bay BeachesDeveloped Coasts
Patrick D. NunnDepartment of GeographyUniversity of the South PacificPO Box 1168SuvaFijiPhone: 679 212542Fax: 679 301487e-mail: [email protected] j
Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology
George F. OertelDepartment of OceanographyOld Dominion UniversityNorfolk VA 23529USAPhone: 1 757 683 4935Fax: 1 757 683 5303e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Lakes and LagoonsCoasts, Coastlines, Shores and Shorelines
Julian D. OrfordSchool of GeographyQueen’s UniversityBelfast BT7 1NNUKPhone: 44 2890 335142Fax: 44 2890 321280e-mail: [email protected]
Gravel Barriers
Antony R. OrmeDepartment of GeographyUniversity Of CaliforniaLos Angeles CA 90095-1524USAPhone: 1 310 825 1516e-mail: [email protected]
Africa, Coastal Geomorphology
Philip D. OsbornePacific International EngineeringPO 1599Edmonds WA 98020USAPhone: 1 425 921 1720Fax: 1 425 744 1400e-mail: [email protected]
Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Size on Beaches
W.R. OsterkampUS Geological Survey1675 W. Anklam Rd.Tuscon AZ 85745USAPhone: 1 520 670 6821 ext 113Fax: 1 520 670 6806e-mail: [email protected]
Mining of Coastal Materials
Ervin G. OtvosInstitute of Marine Sciences703 East Beach Blvd.PO Box 7000Ocean Springs MS 39566-7000USAPhone: 1 228 872 4235Fax: 1 228 872 4204e-mail: [email protected]
Beach RidgesCheniers
Bruce ParkerCoast Survey Development LaboratoryNational Ocean Service, NOAA1315 East-West Highway, Rm 7806Silver Spring MD 20910USAPhone: 1 301 713 2801Fax: 1 301 713 4501e-mail: [email protected]
Tides
Roland P. Paskoff10, Square Saint-FlorentinLe Chesnay F78150FrancePhone: 33 1 39556002Fax: 33 1 39559291e-mail: [email protected]
Faulted CoastsKarst Coasts
Shea PenlandDepartment of Geology and GeophysicsUniversity of New OrleansNew Orleans LA 70148USAPhone: 1 504 280 3119Fax: 1 504 280 7396e-mail: [email protected]
Deltas
Conrad A. PilditchDepartment of Biological SciencesUniversity of WaikatoPB 3105HamiltonNew ZealandPhone: 64 7 838 4466 ext 6132Fax: 64 7 838 4324e-mail: [email protected]
New Zealand, Coastal Ecology
Orrin H. PilkeyDivision of Earth and Ocean SciencesDuke UniversityDurham NC 27708-0227USAPhone: 1 919 684 4238Fax: 1 919 684 5833e-mail: [email protected]
ForewordManaged Retreat
Paolo A. Pirazzoli16 rue de la Grange Bateliere
xxvi CONTRIBUTORS
Paris 75009FrancePhone: 33 1 4507 5558Fax: 33 1 4507 5830e-mail: [email protected]
Marine TerracesSea-Level Indicators, Geomorphic
Seismic DisplacementSubmerging Coasts
Tectonics and NeotectonicsTide Gauges
Katherine PondRobens Centre for Public and Environmental HealthUniversity of SurreyGuilford, SurreyUKPhone: 44 1483 879935Fax: 44 1483 879971e-mail: [email protected]
Water Quality
Abel PrieurFRE 2158-CNRSCentre de Paleontologie
stratagraphique et Pleoecologie27-43 boulevard du 11 novembre 1918F-69622 Villeurbanne CedexFrancePhone: 33 04 72 444 84 88e-mail: abel.prieur@univ_lyon1.fr
Asia, Middle East, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology
Norbert P. PsutySandy Hook Cooperative Research ProgramsInstitute of Marine and Coastal SciencesRutgers UniversityHighlands NJ 07732USAPhone: 1 732 708 1462e-mail: [email protected]
South America, Coastal Geomorphology
Michael R. RampinoEarth and Environmental Science ProgramNew York University100 Washington Square EastNew York NY 10003USAPhone: 1 212 998 3743Fax: 1 212 995 3820e-mail: [email protected]
[email protected] Processes
Elijah W. Ramsey IIIUS Geological SurveyNational Wetlands Research Center700 Cajundome Blvd.Lafayette LA 70506USAPhone: 1 318 266 8575Fax: 1 318 266 8616e-mail: [email protected]
[email protected] Sensing of Coastal Environments
R. Keith RaneyApplied Physics LaboratoryJohns Hopkins UniversityLaurel MDUSAPhone: 1 240 228 5384Fax: 1 240 228 5548e-mail: [email protected]
Synthetic Aperture Radar Systems
Anto RaukasInstitute of GeologyEstonian Academy of Sciences7 Estonia BoulevardTallinn EE 10143EstoniaPhone: 372 6454659Fax: 372 6312074e-mail: [email protected]
Klint
Denise J. ReedDepartment of Geology and GeophysicsUniversity of New OrleansNew Orleans LA 70148USAPhone: 1 504 280 7395Fax: 1 504 280 7396e-mail: [email protected]
Vegetated CoastsWetlands
William RitchieAberdeen Institute of Coastal Science & Management
King’s CollegeAberdeen AB42 3UEScotland,UKPhone: 44 1224 274474/272522Fax: 44 1224 272497e-mail: [email protected]
MachairOil Spills, High Energy Coasts
Washover Effects
Neil RobertsSchool of GeographyUniversity of PlymouthDrake Circus, PlymouthDevon PL4 BAAPhone: 44 1752 233 051Fax: 44 1752 233 054e-mail: [email protected]
Holocene Epoch
Rosana Moreira da RochaUniversidade Federal do ParanaDepartmento do ZoologiaCP 19020 Curitiba PR BrasilCEP: 81.531-990e-mail: [email protected]
South America, Coastal Ecology
Peter J. RosenDepartment of Earth and Environmental
Sciences14 Holmes HallNortheastern UniversityBoston MA 02115USAPhone: 1 617 373 4380Fax: 1 617 373 4378e-mail: [email protected]
Boulder Barricades
John M. RybczykHuxley College of the EnvironmentWestern Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 2081Fax: 1 360 650 2842e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal SubsidenceDeltaic Ecology
CONTRIBUTORS xxvii
Yoshiki SaitoMRE, Geological Survey of Japan, AISTCentral 7, Higashi 1-1-1Tsukuba 305 8567JapanPhone: 81 298 61 3895Fax: 81 298 61 3747e-mail: [email protected]
Beach Stratigraphy
Paul SanlavilleUMR 5647, CNRS-Université de Lyon 2Maison de l’Orient Méditerranéen7 rue RaulinLyon 69007Francee-mail: [email protected]
Asia, Middle East, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology
Anja ScheffersInstutut fur GeographieUniversitat EssenUniverstatssr. 15D-45117 EssenGermanyPhone: 0049 201 1833358Fax: 0049 201 1832811e-mail: [email protected]
Europe, Coastal Geomorphology
Gerhard SchellmannDepartment of Physical Geography and
Landscape StudiesUniversity of BambergAm Kranen 1, PO Box 15 49D-96045 BambergGermanyPhone: �49 0951 863 2380Fax:�49 0951 863 1193e-mail: [email protected]
Geochronology
Maurice SchwartzDepartment of GeologyWestern Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 3586Fax: 1 360 650 7302e-mail: [email protected]
Tors
David B. ScottDepartment of Earth SciencesDalhousie UniversityHalifax NS B3H 3J5CanadaPhone: 902 494 3604Fax: 902 494 3877e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Changes, Rapid Sea-Level Indicators—Biological in
Depositional Sequences
V. SemeniukV.C. Semeniuk Research Group21 Glenmere RoadWarwick WA 6024AustraliaPhone: 61 8 94473708Fax: 61 8 94473705e-mail: [email protected]
Tidal Flats
Richard J. SeymourScripps Institution of OceanographyUniversity of California at San Diego
La Jolla CA 92093-0220USAPhone: 1 858 534 2561Fax: 1 858 455 5575e-mail: [email protected]
Cross-Shore Sediment TransportGross Transport
Longshore Sediment TransportNet Transport
Ian ShennanDepartment of GeographyUniversity of DurhamDurham DH1 3LEUKPhone: 44 191 374 2484Fax: 44 191 374 2456e-mail: [email protected]
Peat
Charles SheppardDepartment of Biological SciencesUniversity of WarwickCoventry CV4 7ALUKPhone: 44 1203 524975Fax: 44 1203 524619e-mail: [email protected]
Coral Reef Coasts
Douglas J. ShermanDepartment of GeographyUniversity of Southern CaliforniaLos Angeles CA 90089-0663USAPhone: 1 213 740 1123Fax: 1 213 740 0056e-mail: sherman @usc.edu
Dissipative BeachesNorth America, Coastal Geomorphology
Reflective Beaches
Andrew D. ShortGeography, Coastal StudiesUniversity of SydneySydney NSW 2006AustraliaPhone: 61 2 9351 3625Fax: 61 2 9351 3644e-mail: [email protected]
Carbonate Sandy BeachesSandy Coasts
Wave Environments
Parmeshwar L. ShresthaExponent Inc.320 Goddard Way, Suite 200Irvine CA 92618USAe-mail: [email protected]
Cohesive Sediment Transport
David P. SimpsonPacific International Engineering310 Waterfront Park Building144 Railroad Ave.DistributionEdmonds WA 98020USAe-mail: [email protected]
Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Size on BeachesGravel Beaches
Rodman E. SneadDepartment of GeographyUniversity of New MexicoAlbuquerque NM 87131USAPhone: 1 505 247 3105
Desert Coasts
xxviii CONTRIBUTORS
Gordon C. StaplesRADARSAT-2 International13800 Commerce ParkwayRichmond BC V6V 2J3CanadaPhone: 1 604 231 4950Fax: 1 604 231 4940e-mail: [email protected]
RADARSAT-2
Wayne StephensonDepartment of Geography and Environmental StudiesUniversity of MelbourneMelbourneVictoria 3010Australia
Shore Platforms
J. Court StevensonHorn Point LaboratotyUniversity of Maryland Center for Environmental SciencePO Box 775Cambridge MD 21613USAPhone: 1 410 221 8442Fax: 1 410 221 8490e-mail: [email protected]
North America, Coastal Ecology
Michael P. StewartSchool of Spatial SciencesCurtin University of TechnologyPerth 6152 WAAustraliaPhone: 61 8 9266 7600Fax: 61 8 9266 2703e-mail: [email protected]
Geodesy
Robert R. StickneyTexas Sea Grant College Program2700 Earl Rudder Freeway, Suite 1800College Station, TX 77845USAPhone: 1 979 845 3854Fax: 1 979 845 7525e-mail: [email protected]
Marcel J.F. StiveNCK/Netherlands Centre for Coastal ResearchDelft University of TechnologyPO Box 5048Delft 2600 GAThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 15 2783345Fax: 31 15 2785124e-mail: [email protected]
Artificial Islands
Gregory W. StoneCoastal Studies InstituteLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge LA 70803USAPhone: 1 225 388 6188Fax: 1 225 388 2520e-mail: [email protected]
Meteorological Effects on CoastsNearshore Wave Measurement
Katherine StoneMeyers, Widders, Gibson, and Long, LLP5425 Everglades St., Suite 100Ventura CA 93006USA
Phone: 1 805 644 7188Fax: 1 805 644 7390e-mail: [email protected]
Sand Rights
William StreeverBP Exploration (Alaska) Inc.PO Box 196612Anchorage, AL 99519-6612Phone: 1 907 564 4383Fax: 1 907 564 5020e-mail: [email protected]
Wetland Restoration
Melanie J. StrightUS Department of the InteriorMinerals Management Service381 Elden St. (MS 4042)Herndon VA 20170USAPhone: 1 703 787 1736Fax: 1 703 787 1026e-mail: [email protected]
Archaeological Site Location, Effect of Sea-Level Change
William B. StrongeFlorida Atlantic University777 Glades Rd.PO Box 3091Boca Raton FL 33431USAPhone: 1 561 297 2833Fax: 1 561 297 2850e-mail: [email protected]
Economic Value of Beaches
Tsuguo SunamuraDepartment of Earth and Space SciencesOsaka UniversityOsaka 560-0043JapanPhone: 81 6 6850 5799Fax: 81 6 6850 5480e-mail: [email protected]
Cliffs, Erosion RatesCliffs, Lithology versus Erosion Rates
Thomas A. TerichCenter for Geography, MS9085Huxley CollegeWestern Washington UniversityBellingham WA 98225USAPhone: 1 360 650 3286Fax: 1 360 650 7702e-mail: [email protected]
Driftwood
Joost H.J. TerwindtDepartment of Physical GeographyState University of UtrechtHeidelberglaan 2Postbus 80.1153508 TC UtrechtThe NetherlandsPhone: 31 33 4618039Fax: 31 33 4618039e-mail: [email protected]
Polders
E. Robert ThielerUS Geological SurveyCoastal and Marine Geology Program384 Woods Hole RoadWoods Hole MA 02543USAPhone: 1 508 457 2350Fax: 1 508 457 2310e-mail: [email protected]
Photogrammetry
CONTRIBUTORS xxix
B.G. ThomFaculty of Built EnvironmentUniversity of New South WalesSydney, NSW, 2052AustraliaPhone: 61 2 9337 1465Fax: 61 2 9337 1465email: [email protected]
Coastal Changes, Gradual
James G. TitusMail Code 2174U.S. Environmental Protection AgencyWashington DC 20460USAPhone: office: 202 260 7821
home: 301 464 5423beach: 609 494 9742
e-mail: [email protected] Effect and Global Warming
Sea-Level Rise, Effect
Monica M.P. Tognella-De-RosaUniversidade do Vale de ItajaiCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarRua Uruguai, 458, Itajai, SCBrasile-mail: [email protected]
South America, Coastal Ecology
Alan S. TrenhaileGeography DepartmentUniversity of WindsorWindsor, Ontario N9B 3P4CanadaPhone: 519 253 4232 ext 2184Fax: 519 973 7081e-mail: [email protected]
Beach Sediment CharacteristicsCliffed CoastsMass Wasting
Rock Coasts Processes
David T. TudorBath Spa University CollegeNewton ParkBath BA2 9BNUKe-mail: [email protected]
Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter
Robert J. TurnerDivision of Natural SciencesSouthampton College239 Montauk HighwaySouthampton, NY 11968-4198Phone: 1 516 287 8400Fax: 1 516 287 8419e-mail: [email protected]
Beachrock
Takaaki UdaPublic Works Research CenterTakara Bldg.,1–6–4, Taito, Taito-kuJapan 110–0016Phone: 81 3–3835–3609Fax: 81 3–3835–3609e-mail: [email protected]
M. WafarBiological Oceanography DivisionNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa 403 004India
Phone: 11 713 973 3148Fax: 11 713 973 3340e-mail: [email protected]
Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology
Sayeeda WafarBiological Oceanography DivisionNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa 403 004India
Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology
H. Jesse WalkerDepartment of Geography and AnthropologyLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge LA 70803-4105USAPhone: 1 225 578 6130Fax: 1 225 578 4420e-mail: [email protected]
Arctic, Coastal GeomorphologyBeach Nourishment
History, Coastal GeomorphologyIce-Bordered Coasts
Martyn WallerSchool of GeographyKingston UniversityPenrhyn RoadKingston-upon-ThamesSurrey KT1 2EEUKPhone: 44 208 547 2000Fax: 44 208 547 7502e-mail: [email protected]
Bogs
Ping WangDepartment of Geology, SCA 528University of South Florida4202 E. Fowler Ave.Tampa FL 33620USAPhone: 1 813 974 9170Fax: 1 813 974 2654e-mail: [email protected]
Nearshore Sediment Transport MeasurementNearshore Wave Measurement
Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts
Shin WangDepartment of GeographyNational Taiwan UniversityPO Box 23-175TaipeiTaiwan, ROCPhone: 886 2 23627652Fax: 886 2 23627652e-mail: [email protected]
Coastal Hoodoos
Detlef A. WarnkeDepartment of Geological SciencesCalifornia State UniversityHayward CA 94542-3088USAPhone: 1 510 885 4716Fax: 1 510 885 2526e-mail: [email protected]
Pluvial Lake Shore Deposits
Niels WestDepartment of Marine AffairsUniversity of Rhode IslandKingston RI 02881-0817USAPhone: 401 874 4046
xxx CONTRIBUTORS
Fax: 401 874 2156e-mail: [email protected]
Beach Use and BehaviorsCleaning Beaches
Dean WhitmanLaboratory for Coastal ResearchFlorida International UniversityMiami FL 33199USA
Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping and Light Detectionand Ranging
Patricia L. WibergDepartment of Environmental SciencesUniversity of VirginiaCharlottesville VA 22903-4123USAPhone: 1 804 924-7546e-mail: [email protected]
Wave–Current Interaction
Allan T. WilliamsApplied Sciences DepartmentUniversity of GlamorganPontypriddMid GlamorganWalesUKPhone: 44 01656 783928Fax: 44 91443 480558e-mail: [email protected]
Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter
P.P. WongDepartment of GeographyNational University of Singapore10 Kent Ridge CrescentSingapore 119260Phone: 65 874 3859Fax: 65 777 3091e-mail: [email protected]
ReclamationTourism, Criteria for Coastal Sites
Guy WoppelmannCentre Littoral de GeophysiqueUniversite de La RochelleAvenue Michel Crepeau17042 La Rochelle Cedex 1
FrancePhone: 33 5 46458205Fax: 33 5 46458249e-mail: [email protected]
Tide Gauges
Alejandro Yáñez-ArancibiaInstituto de Ecologia A.C.Division de Recurso NaturalesJefe Programa de Recursos CosterosPO Box 63Xalapa 91000Km 2.5 Antigua Carretera Xalapa-CoatepecXalapaVer. MexicoPhone: 52 28 421800 ext 3413Fax: 52 28 187809e-mail: [email protected]
Middle America, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology
Prasanna YennavarBiological Oceanography DivisionNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa 403 004India
Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology
Wyss W.-S. YimDepartment of Earth SciencesUniversity of Hong KongPokfulam RoadHong Kong SARChinaPhone: 852 2859 2829/2859 1084 MessagesFax: 852 2517 6912e-mail: [email protected]
Submerged Coasts
Keqi ZhangLaboratory for Coastal ResearchFlorida International UniversityMiami FL 33199USA
Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping and Light Detection and Ranging
CONTRIBUTORS xxxi
As millions of people move toward the coastline, the rise in sea level ismoving the coastline toward them. Anxious for a good view of the sea,property owners crowd the retreating beaches and governments seek theadvice of coastal scientists and engineers to find a way to control theerosion problem. As a consequence, the study of sea level change, thegreenhouse effect, the coastal processes and ways to respond to retreat-ing coastlines have become paramount priorities. Coastal science hasbenefited tremendously.
For example, the search for sand used for beach nourishment, cur-rently a favored erosion control approach, is pouring millions of dollarsinto the hands of those who operate vibracores, side-scan sonar, andshallow seismic devices. The applied science that is carried out to findsand is almost exactly the same as the preferred basic science approachto determine the recent history of shorefaces, coasts, and islands, and todiscern the processes that have shaped them. This combined need-to-know and funding bonanza are in significant part responsible for a leapin our comprehension of nearshore processes in the last two decades.So, Maurice Schwartz’s enormous effort in bringing us this newEncyclopedia of Coastal Science is most timely.
Specialty encyclopedias, especially one concerned with a fast movingscience, such as this, provide a contemplative ledge, a place to pause and consolidate recent accomplishments. Inclusion of almost all of theseasoned practitioners of coastal earth science as contributors addssignificantly to this volume’s usefulness and credibility as well as itspotential as a point of consolidation for our science.
This volume is replete with essays on a great number of topics thatincorporate the most recent illations, judgments, and discoveries incoastal studies. What are these great advances, especially those that haveoccurred in coastal science in the 20 years since the Schwartz-editedEncyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments hit the book stores?This question, a perennial favorite in Ph.D. exams, will be answereddifferently according to one’s subspecialty. My first choice is the pushforward in understanding the shoreface processes, the all-importantlink between the subaerial beach and the continental shelf. The topic iscovered in at least half a dozen articles in the encyclopedia includingthose by Ed Clifton, Miles Hayes, Robert Dean, Alan Niedoroda, andVictor Goldsmith. There are also articles on the major technologicaladvances that have fueled the advance of coastal science, including aaphotogrammetry, side-scan sonar, synthetic aperture radar systems, and
Foreword
LIDAR among others (R. Thieler, Doug Inman, Keith Raney, andStephen Leatherman).
A global perspective is furnished in separate articles about thecoastal geomorphology of each continent, including the Antarctic,with companion articles on the ecology of the same coasts. A differentapproach to the big picture is provided through articles on coastlinetypes such as tide- and wave-dominated (Miles Hayes), ice-bordered(Jess Walker), bay beaches (Karl Nordstrom), vegetated coasts (DeniseReed), muddy coasts (Terry Healy), chalk coasts (Vincent May), karstcoasts (Roland Paskoff) and uplift coasts (Terry Healy). This small sam-pling of authors is indicative of the care that editor Schwartz has takento fill the contributor slots with the “right” people with appropriatespecialties.
Maurice Schwartz presents us with his second coastal encyclopedia.The first one, The Encyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments(Hutchinson Ross, 1982) became the reference bible for coastal geologistsand geomorphologists. At least it was for me. Not surprisingly, in this fastmoving specialty, it is now out of date. I believe this new encyclopediawill prove to be equally important, but to a broader spectrum of coastalspecialists.
The Encyclopedia of Coastal Science follows true to the title and cutsa broad swath. Titles are more sweeping. Individual entries are mostlytopical essays rather than the dictionary-like definitions of the earlierencyclopedia. For example, instead of individual short definitions anddescriptions of bulkheads, groins, jetties, seawalls, offshore breakwatersand the like, Nick Kraus has contributed two entries: Shore ProtectionStructures and Navigation Structures. The range of article topics ishuge. Some of the outliers include coastal warfare, cleaning beaches,sand rights, oil spills, setbacks, polders, and tourism.
I believe the Encyclopedia of Coastal Science will prove to be a price-less resource for both educators and researchers in the coastal sciencesas well as for those who use science in managing our nearshoreresources. I would even like to see it on the bookshelves of beach cottages, although the volume is not intended for a lay audience.This resource is perfect for those who need succinct and authoritativeinformation on most aspects of coastal science.
Orrin H. PilkeyDuke University
Map measurements of the world’s coastline length have yielded a figureof 500,000 km. However, when all of the very real and intricate coastalcrenulations are considered, the actual length is probably closer to1,000,000 km. Added to this is the fact that 40% of the 6,000,000,000people presently inhabiting the earth live within 100 km of a coastline.From these observations, it can be seen that coasts are a very major geo-morphic and social feature on the face of the planet. And for this rea-son, scholars in a multitude of disciplines have long been studying themany facets of the zone where the land meets the sea.
In this collected volume, authorities in many fields expound on certainaspects of their expertise, not so much in a dictionary of terms sense as in aseries of essays that may be broken down into such categories as: atmos-phere and oceanography, ecology, engineering and technology, geomor-phology, and human activities related to the coasts (see Appendix 6: TopicCategories). The reader may not completely agree with some of their views;in fact, some of the authors do not agree entirely with each other. Perusingthrough professional journals in these fields would show the same variety ofopinions on a given topic. For that is the nature of science, holding forth ona subject as interpreted by long and careful study of the evidence. What isthen to be found here, between the covers of this volume, are 306 entriesthat contain a wealth of information on different aspects of the world’scoast, which we all hold so dear. If there are any questions of omissions orjudgment, the fault then lies entirely with me, the editor.
In a similar vein, one would expect the terminology of a science tohave universal acceptance; but, sadly, that is not the case. For example,the ubiquitous term “shoreline” can be employed in the historical geomorphic sense of the line formed by the edge of the water againstthe land as it rises and falls through tidal cycles or atmospheric changes;or as it has been defined by the US Coast and Geodetic Survey for mapping purposes as the high-tide line, high-water line, or wet–dryboundary. In order for the term to mean the same thing whereverit appears in this volume the geomorphic meaning has been adopted, orclarified where it has deviated from that. For further clarification of thisdichotomy, the reader is referred to the entry titled Coasts, Coastlines,Shores, and Shorelines.
Though there have been many trials and tribulations during the fourto five years that it has taken to bring this volume to publication, therehave also been moments of humor that lightened the load along theway. While explanations for late contributions ran rampant, none wasmore acceptable than that from the contributor down-under who, whileworking on a major topic, brought forth two “bubs” (a girl and a boy)to add to an already large family. For sheer inventiveness to a contribu-tor who did not want to repeat a previously published survey, thatprogressed around a continent in a clockwise fashion, there was youreditor’s suggestion that he simply proceed in a counter-clockwise direc-tion. In the end it came out only halfway there. Then too, probably thebest single line in any entry contained here is the quote to the effect thata certain coastal feature is “… rather like pornography—difficult todefine, but you know it when you see it!” That could only be topped bycorrespondence from another down-under contributor who used wildlycolorful expressions that can not even be repeated here.
Of course, I am most appreciative to all of the very many people whohave been involved in this project. However, two individuals stand outmost significantly. The first and foremost is the editor-in-chief of thisearth-science encyclopedia series, Rhodes Fairbridge, who has been myteacher, mentor, and friend for the past 40 years. The second is PeterBinfield, my editor at Kluwer Academic Publishers, who has guided methrough this project with expertise, patience, and humor. To both ofthese gentlemen, I offer my most profound gratitude. Thanks are alsodue to Russ Burmester, Vicki Critchlow, Gene Hoerauf, Larry Palmer,Kevin Short, and Chris Sutton, at Western Washington University, forconsiderable technical support.
Sadly, media specialist Kevin Short, who worked his computer magicon many graphics in the volume including the cover photo, passed awaysuddenly in January of 2004 at the age of 44. Colleagues and friends alikewill miss Kevin and remember him for his kindness, humor, and creativity.
Maurice Schwartz
Preface