FACE AND BODY CLASSICAL COSMETIC MASSAGE

(common material)

2011 – 2013.

Massage is a measured mechanic effect to client’s body. The origins of the

word „massage” can be traced back from the Greek word massein, meaning- stroking,

kneading.

History of massage

Massage is one of the most ancient treatment methods. This method has been

used since ages for strengthening of mental and physical health. The Chinese book

„Cong-Fou” dated with the 2698 year B.C. provides information on treatment and

gymnastic schools in Ancient China, where practicioners of medicine obtained the

indispensable knowledge in massage therapy. Massage therapy was applied also in

Ancient Egypt, afterwards it reached Ancient Greece. The renowned Greek physicians

as Herodix, Hippocrates and others described in detail various massage techniques.

Hippocrates (460-377 years B.C.) was the first in the Greek medicine who established

school of massage as to the modern understanding. At that time the massage was used

both, for hygienic and treatment purposes. Massage in Ancient Greece was performed

in bathhouses accompanied with active and passive physical exercises and anointment

with oils and balms. Upsurge of massage took place in Ancient Rome. Massage was

performed in bathhouses-therms. Galen of Pergamon (131-201), the chief physician of

the Roman gladiators’ school considered that a massage accompanied with

hydrotherapy was the best known remedy for treatment of traumas. He used massage

to prepare muscles and joints for strenuous physical activity, as well as an anaesthetic

cure and to precipitate regeneration. Later the European society lost an interest

towards prophylactic and curing mediums, including massage. In year 1813 Per

Henrik Ling (1776-1839) established Royal Gymnastic Central Institute in

Stockholm, where later he laid grounds for the so called “Swedish massage and

gymnastics”. After his death the method developed by Ling faded away. Johann

Georg Metzger, a Dutch practitioner (1830-1909) was the one who later brought back

to life this massage. In the late 19th century Russian scientists turned to research of the

massage procedure and the scientific substantiation. A great investment in study of

the physiological effect of massage to a human body has made a Russian scientist

I.Zabludovski. In year 1882 he published a book on the effect of massage to healthy

humans. In the beginning of the 20th century by summarizing elements of the Swedish

school and adding new techniques a new school is developed that is applied to both-

sport and therapeutical massage. The co-founders and the most outstanding experts of

this school are I.Sarkizov-Serazini, A. Verboff and A.Vasylieva. Massage was

recognized and prescribed in treatment of patients by the most outstanding Latvian

masterminds - Prof.Pauls Stradins (surgeon) and Kristaps Rudzitis, general

practicioner.

Ancient Egypt 2330 years B.C. Avicenna`s illustration Per Henrik Ling (1776-1839)

Effect of massage

Massage gives a psychological, physiological and energetic effect on a human.

The psychological effect of massage expresses as a comfort feeling and relaxation,

awareness of one’s body rendered by a gentle and pleasant touch. Physiological effect

of massage expresses itself as a response reaction of the body to the massage as a

mechanical irritant.

The mechanisms of physiological activity of the massage are complex, where

multiple human body systems are involved, but the major role is allocated to the

central nervous system. The physiological effect of massage distinguishes three

central factors:

humoral;

neuroreflectory;

mechanical.

Humoral effect is related to the activation of biologically active substances and their

penetration in the blood circulation. For instance, acetylcholine and histamine induce

dilatation of small arteries. Acetylcholine increases muscular activity since it is a

neurotransmitter, it improves the excitatory transmission from one nerve cell to

another, as well as from the nerve cells to the muscle fibres.

Neuroreflectory mechanism. The mechanical irritation of massage is perceived by a

receptor located in the skin, muscles, tendon, ligaments and inner organs transducing

the mechanical energy into nerve impulses. The flow of impulses from the receptors

to the afferent nerves reach the cerebral cortex and subsequently induce functional

alterations in the area of effect of massage, as well as in other organs and body

systems.

Due to the mechanical effect a pressure is exerted on tissues, by squeezing, moving

them thereby inducing acceleration of intercellular liquid and lymph, and blood

circulation. Mechanical effect of massage substantially facilitates improvement of

peripheral blood circulation, boosts metabolism and facilitates breathing of the skin.

Psychological effect.

The mind and body are inextricably interconnected, meaning that what impacts people

physically can also impact them psychologically. A good massage session can even

help address some physical ailments because of its effects on emotional well-being.

Extensive studies have clearly illustrated the link between adequate tactile

stimulation during infancy and subsequent healthy behavioural development. The raw

sensation of touch is vitally necessary for the physical survival of the organism. So

the skin, intimately connected as it is with the brain, is fundamental in the

development of human behaviour.

It is the earliest years which are the most important. From the point of view of an

infant a lack of warmth, discomfort or pain are life-threatening qualities. An infant is

totally dependent on its mother for food and warmth, so the actual physical presence

of its mother, experienced through direct contact with the skin, is going to give rise to

comfort; not just physical comfort but pure joy.

Massage creates an over all sense of well-being. Relaxation increases alertness and

alleviates mental fog. It eases the anxiety of post-traumatic stress disorder sufferers.

Regular massage therapy can help to "re-wire" the brain in these cases, allowing for

healing on a level that no herb or pharmaceutical possibly can.

Massage affects the whole body and its systems. Firstly, we will refer to its influence

on nervous system. In the basis of the effectiveness of massage the neruoreflectory

mechanism stands, which includes both, the central and peripheral nervous system.

The character of response reactions depend on applied massage techniques, the

intensity, rapidity of movements, as well as from the functional condition of the

central nervous system. For instance, slow and gentle stroking movements diminish

excitability of central nervous system, thereby producing a calming effect. Under

performance of quick-tempered, disrupted, energetic stroking, a contrary effect is

achieved- an increased excitability of nervous system. Massage improves blood

supply to the central, peripheral nerves, enhances the transmission processes of nerve

impulses, reduce sensations of pain. Percussion massage technique has an expressly

toning effect. Stroking and uninterrupted vibration technique has relaxing effect when

performed in a slow temper. Relaxing massage lessens fatigue and increases

performance of mental work.

Effect of massage to the heart – blood-vessels and lymphatic system:

- blood flows from the inner organs to the skin and muscles;

- widens peripheral blood-vessels;

- induces a nonsignificant decrease in arterial tension, the frequency of pulse rate is

slightly decreased;

- improves blood supply to tissues, accelerates the capillary blood circulation;

- influences tissue trohpicity processes;

- facilitates and accelerates the venous blood circulation;

- facilitates the heart activity, improves the blood supply to the heart muscle;

- improves lymph circulation and reduces intercellular oedema.

Effect of massage to the muscular and skeletal system

An irritation of muscle proprioreceptors during a massage induces an increased

acetylcholine synthesis and increase of excitability of the muscle fibres.

Massage:

- improves blood supply to muscles;

- improves elimination of toxins from the muscle tissues;

- improves blood supply to joints and tissues, improves trophicity of joints,

stimulates formation of the synovial fluid;

- improves mobility of joints and elasticity of ligaments.

Massage improves elasticity of muscles, as well as their strength and capacity.

Effect of massage to the skin

The skin with the assistance of its receptor apparatus perceives the effect of massage

and information on this effect in a form of impulses that are transmitted to the central

nervous system.

The effect of massage to the skin is the following:

- peals away horny cells;

- improves blood supply to the tissues, the skin temperature increases;

- influences the venous blood and lymph flow, reduces oedema;

- improves the processes of trophicity in the skin, subcutaneous tissues;

- enhances the secreting and excreting function of sweat and sebaceous gland, as well

as gas exchanges through the skin.

Effect of massage metabolism and excretion functions

As a result of effect of massage an increased excretion of mineral salts- sodium

chloride, non-organic phosphorus, nitrogen-containing substances (carbamides, uric

acids) and unoxidized metabolism waste products (lactic acid) are observed. Filtration

of uric acid is increased as the effect of massage. An excessive fluid is eliminated

from the human body. Massage activates defence mechanisms and has a preventive

effect on preservation of health.

Effect of massage on respiratory system:

- intensifies respiration;

-increases lung aeration resulting in a boosted uptake of oxygen and excretion of

carbon dioxide from the human body.

Massage may be performed in different manners. Most common manner is manually

performed massage; in this case we are talking about the cosmetic classical body

massage. However, massage may be performed also with apparatus (vacuum

massage, vibromassage), aqua (hydromassage), brushes, cold (cryomassage), crystal

wands, stones etc. In these cases the specific effect to the human body will be attained

with the given factor.

Indications for a cosmetic classical body massage:

- joint mobility reduction;

- wrong body posture;

- stress headache;

- slow blood and lymph circulation;

- distributive shock;

- slowed intestinal motility;

- difficult to breath;

- weakness of the immune system;

- little rise of blood pressure;

- ill – being, depression;

- disorder of dream;

- nervousness, moderate stress;

- mental instability;

- weariness of mental work;

- falling of attention;

- disturbances of skin and muscle trophicity (including skin ageing);

- cellulites;

- fluid retention in the body, oedemas;

- tensed, painful muscles;

-locally deposited fat, adiposity;

As a preventive treatment, massage would be recommended to every healthy human.

Contraindications:

- a bad overall health condition- cardiovascular, renal and kidney impairment, acute

inflammation of internal organs (peptic ulcer exacerbation, inflammation of the

ovaries);

- fever, acute respiratory diseases, angina, sickness, vomiting;

- malignant diseases, fast growing benign tumors;

- acute skin diseases, dermal mycosis, furunculosis, hives;

- inflammation of lymph nodes;

- acute inflammations in joints;

- phlebitis, thrombophlebitis, thrombosis;

- blood diseases;

- chronic osteomyolitis;

- acute pain, haematomas, acute traumas, bleedings;

-pregnancy (prenatal massage is performed).

- intoxication of alcohol;

- problems with liver;

- thyroid desease;

- festering sores;

- big birthmarks in area;

- too low or too high blood pressure;

- tuberculosis;

- degeneration of tissue.

Completion of client’s body analysis and assessment sheet

Prior to performance of any facial or body cosmetical procedure it is necessary to

complete client’s facial or body analysis and assessment sheet. During questioning

and examining the client, necessary information is obtained allowing drawing up and

recommending the advisable treatment procedure to the client. This assessment sheet

contains the following details:

Name and last name of the client; male / female

Date of birth;

Address, phone number; e – mail

Number of children

Occupation

Currently used medications;

Medical history:

o acute skin diseases;

o high or lowered blood-pressure;

o varicose veins;

o a recent surgery ;

o pregnancy;

o heart diseases;

o epilepsy;

o diabetes;

o hematomas;

o damages to the skin;

o prosthetic limbs;

o other health conditions.

Skin condition;

Stretch marks;

Weight, height, body mass index;

Muscle tone;

Posture;

Cellulites;

Fat deposits;

Constitutional type of the body;

Selection of massage area- a particular area or a massage of the whole body

and the purpose of massage;

Further recommendations for body treatment at home and at the beauty salon;

Dietary recommendations;

Recommendations for exercise.

Constitutional types of the body

In order to better develop a program of procedures, including a massage, to

recommend exercises, diet, it is necessary to know and to be aware of the

constitutional types of the body.

The human body develops from a human embryo after an ovum has been fertilized by

a male sperm. Approximately by the end of the second week of development a human

embryo develops three primary layers of cells: the outer layer-ectoderm, the middle

layer-mesoderm and the inner layer-endoderm. Later during the development process

human organs and systems are formed:

- an epidermis, organs of sense and central, and peripheral nervous system is

formed from ectoderm;

- bones, muscles, urethras, genitals and blood circulation system and blood is

formed from mesoderm;

- intestinal mucous membrane and organs, and glands of digestive system are

formed from endoderm.

Depending on which of these layers during the development process has prevailed the

following types are distinguished:

o ectomorph type;

o mesomorph type;

o endomorph type.

Ectomorph type

Slender limbs, narrow shoulders are characteristic to this type and their

body is usually higher than the average one. This type has an actively

working thyroid gland, producing hormone accelerating many processes in

the human body, including metabolism, therefore it is difficult for this

type to gain weight and to increase muscle mass. Muscle tone of the

ectomorph type is frequently fair and postural deviations are of frequent

occurrence.

Dietary recommendations:

It is advisable to have often but small meals, that are high in proteins, especially eggs,

white fish and chicken meat, as well as to choose alkaline products, for instance,

cheese, greens, vegetables, rice.

Training program:

to introduce as many strength training as possible for a maximum gain in

mass;

rest period shall be longer in order the body (muscles) are relaxed and get

used to the load;

to decrease the aerobic exercises (aerobic, running, swimming, etc.).

Endomorph type

Women of this type of body tend to be overweight; women have broader hips

and bigger breast. The metabolism processes of these humans are more slowly

therefore they gain in fat more quickly than the others. Their body is shorter.

Hips and upper arms are relatively more developed than the calf-muscles and

forearms. Upper part of the body is taller than the lower part of the body. All

endomorph types are corpulent even if not overweight.

Dietary recommendations

Daily menu should include a sufficient amount of proteins and fewer carbohydrates. It

is advisable to have much vegetables, whole-wheat products and food rich in fibre.

One should avoid highly seasoned and greasy food. Meals should be taken three times

per day. Dairy products should be avoided, for they enhance formation of mucus.

Also an excessive use of salts, cold meals and sugar should be avoided. One should

observe dietary recommendation where more than a half of eaten products are fruit

and vegetables.

Training program:

o in order to lose the excessive body weight, it is necessary to pay attention to

aerobic exercises;

o exercises should be intensive and with small breaks.

 Mesomorph type

People with this type have broad shoulders, narrow waist and hard, well

defined body. This is the most athletic type. It is characterized by well

developed muscles of shanks and forearms. They easily increase their muscle

mass, the level of body fat is usually low. Mesomorph type is most common

in men. In case of increase in weight, it mainly affects the waist area and the

upper part of the body.

Nutritional recommendations:

It is advisable to keep on a balanced diet, putting accent on fruit and vegetables.

Especially good are avocados, apples and pears, and dates. The level of fat and sugar

should be low on menu. Mesomorph type should avoid highly seasoned dishes, better

choosing alkaline products instead- home cheese, soya cheese, rice and olive oil.

Training program:

muscle mass increasing is a relatively easy work;

proportionate aerobic exercises and strength training.

It should be taken into account that totally 100% ectomorph, mesomorph and

endomorph types are very rare. Every human is a mixture of all these three types, with

a prevalence of one or two types. One body type can never be transformed in another,

but, instead, being aware of differences between these types, it is possible to improve

muscle tone, to strengthen the skin and to reduce fat deposits.

Postural deviations

Posture is a free, usual stand of the human body when sitting, standing or moving

ahead. The spine and the muscles are our supporting apparatus that are keeping our

body in a vertical position and with a harmonized muscle activity ensure a balance

and perform various movements, such as leaning ahead, bending backwards and

turning around. From the point of view of anatomy, human posture identified, firstly,

by the development of physiological curve of the spine, form of the chest, position of

the head, shoulder area, condition of the upper and lower extremities. Posture also

depends on the muscle tone, strength and mutual interaction. From the physiologic

point of view posture is as a dynamic stereotype, obtained during an individual

development and education. Spine has four physiological curves:

– cervical and lumbar lordotic curve — lordosis;

– thoracic and sacrococcygeal kyphotic curve— kyphosis.

An ideal posture is assumed to be when a straight line is formed (with an aid of a

balance-wheel):

-from the earlobe;

-tip of the shoulder;

- hip joint;

- back of the knee;

- outside bump of the ankle.

Types of postural deviations:

• Hunchback and swayback are common descriptions of excessive curvatures of

the spine called kyphosis and lordosis; a reason for increased kyphosis could

be a habit to walk or sit with bent shoulders. A cause of lordosis could be

weak abdominal muscles, wearing of shoes on high heels.

• Lateral curve – scoliosis. When touching the bony growths of vertebral

column, there is no straight line formed, but a curve or an S-type drawing. It

could be caused by a habit to sit with a bent back, carrying a heavy shoulder

bag, different lengths of limbs, flat feet (pes planus) and inheritance.

Postural deviations are both unattractive from the point of view of esthetics, and cause

an additional load to the muscles of the back and put restrictions to the overall

movement of the spine that may cause back pain. In case the muscle contracts by 5-

30% of its maximum muscle-strength, the blood flow is completely interrupted. In

case such a tension is maintained over some time period, muscle and the surrounding

tissues experience oxygen hunger and nourishment for the bone tissues, cartilage and

nerve tissues is impeded. This results in degenerative dystrophy (ostheochondrosis),

pain.

Requirements to beautician for performance of massage:

Clothes: in a white colour with short sleeves, comfortable, neat, well ironed

Hands: manicured, without nail varnish, short nails, warm hands

Hair: clean, not falling into eyes and face during the procedure

Make-up: a light day make-up

Footwear: light, comfortable, neat, on a low heel or without it, not making noise

when walking

Bijouterie: no bijouterie (also no wedding ring), an exception can be small earrings

Perfume: no perfume

For performance of massage it is necessary to have a:

- couch;

- chair;

- various sizes of towels;

- towels for compresses/gloves;

- movable table;

- small pallets of various sizes;

- skin disinfection liquid;

- skin cleansing lotions (body peeling);

- massage creams and oils;

- body masks, creams and lotions;

- disposable panties;

- auxiliary materials- napkins, spatulas etc.

- a watch;

- temperature at premises may not be lower than 20-22°C;

- premises shall be painted in warm tones, filled with a pleasant aroma and enjoyable

music.

Cient’s preparation for a massage:

- client’s analysis and assessment sheet shall be filled in;

- clothes shall be taken off (disposable panties);

- bijouterie shall be taken off;

- selection of massage pose;

- for performance of the back massage, a hair band shall be used;

- placement of massage bolsters depending on the chosen area for massage;

- cleansing of the skin;

- application of massage oil/cream/powder/gel.

Placement of massage bolsters.

When lying on back:

- massage bolster is placed under the neck curve (not obligatory)

- placed under the knees- straighten out back/neck/waist and hips, the knee joint is

placed in medium physiological position

When lying on belly massage bolster is placed under the feet joints.

When performing back massage, the bolster may be placed under the belly (in order

the client feels comfortable).

Neck and head massage is performed on a special chair.

During the cosmetic body massage it is essentially important for the cosmetician to

take the right posture in order to keep his/her back healthy.

Swordsman posture Rider posture

One usually applies 5 different basic massage techniques during a cosmetic body

massage:

- stroking (effleurage)

- friction

- kneading (petrissage)

- percussion (tapotement)

- vibration

Massage procedure consists of different techniques, the sequence of which, number,

duration and intensity is pre-described by its physiological effect to the human body,

as well as the aim and purpose of massage procedure.

The initial technique of a massage treatment is stroking. Massage movements are

performed in a direction towards the nearest lymph nodes. This massage technique

mainly affects the skin. Subsequent massage techniques are mainly affecting deeper

layers of tissue.

Stroking

Stroking is performed gently, without shirring the skin, with rhythmic movements and

made with entire flat surface of the hands, with every movement embracing even

bigger area of surface for massage. This is a technique to start a massage, to be also

performed during other massage techniques and to be performed at the end of

massage. An accent shall be put on the middle area where stroking technique is

performed on.

Effect of stroking:

- Exfoliation of horny layer (dead skin cells) of the skin;

- Improvement of skin respiration;

- Improvement of function of sebaceous and sweat glands;

- Improvement of skin elasticity;

- Improvement of blood supply to the skin;

- Improvement of lymph and venous blood flow;

- It has a calming effect to nervous system;

- Reduces muscle tension occurred due to the agitation of nervous system.

Classical massage includes various stroking techniques:

- flat or all-embracing;

- sublimes or profound;

- simultaneous or asynchronous;

- interrupted or uninterrupted.

Friction

A massage technique that is performed with pushing aside the skin, by using thumbs,

other finger, inner parts of the palms, outer surface of hands, phalanx of fingers, base

of the hand. The direction of friction depends on anatomical peculiarities of the

particular areas.

Effect of friction:

- increases blood and lymph supply to the massage area and has a warming effect;

- prepares the skin for the further massage techniques;

- improves elasticity of the skin;

- improves metabolic processes in muscles, ligaments, tendons and joints;

- increases agility of joints;

- reduces muscle tension.

Kneading

The principal effect of kneading is on muscles.

Effect of kneading:

- Improves blood circulation, metabolism in muscles;

- Enhances elimination of metabolism waste products from muscles;

- Improves muscle performance- muscular endurance, strength, elasticity.

The kneading technique depends on anatomical location of muscle. There can be

distinguished:

- longitudinal kneading- longitudinally across the muscle fibres;

- cross-kneading- cross over the muscle fibres.

Kneading is performed by firmly but gently grasping the skin and surface muscles

with thumb and fingers, and rolling, squeezing, or wringing them, and dropping them

back into place. One should take into account that the thumb of the hand is pulled

aside from the other fingers to the maximum. Kneading of the flat muscles is

performed by pressing them to the deeper layers of tissues or bones. It is possible in

the scheme of massage to include various auxiliary techniques, such as muscle lifting,

waiving up, pincer palpating etc.

Percussions (Tapotement)

Percussions are affecting the skin, subcutaneous tissue, muscle and ligaments

receptors, inducing their irritation.

Effect of percussions:

- Improves blood circulation in the area of massage;

- Improves nourishing of tissues, metabolism processes;

- Acceleration of transmission of nerve impulses;

- Improves muscle tone;

- Agitates the nervous system.

Percussions are performed with the outer surfaces of hands, palms and fingertips.

Movements include tapping, slapping and pounding.

Rules to be observed when performing tapotement:

- shall not be performed on spastic muscles;

- arm wrists shall be relaxed;

- shall not be performed on neck, heart area, kidney area, abdomen, spinal cord, joints.

Vibration

Vibromassage can be conducted with labile and stable methods. Vibration methods

affect the receptors located in the area of massage, which after having received

impulses or stimuli, produce a particular reaction.

The effect of vibration:

- improves blood circulation, metabolism, regeneration;

- lymph and venous blood flow;

- improves stomach and intestinal activity;

- reduces muscle tension;

- it has a sedative effect to the central nervous system.

Vibration techniques are performed with hand movements in small amplitude.

Vibration may be performed either with fingers or with the whole palm, with one

hand or both hands simultaneously.

The sequence of performance of the general cosmetic body massage:

- back;

- back of the legs;

- front of the legs;

- chest and abdomen;

- arms.

Massage finishing stage:

- removal of the massage oil or lotion;

- application of body treatment cream.

The duration of massage depends on the scheme of developed techniques and the

number of areas the massage to be performed on - 20-60-90 min. Recommended

treatment course - 1-2-3 times per week. The total number of massages should count

up to 10 times. It is advisable to combine the classical cosmetic massage with various

body wrapping procedures, hydrotherapy, as well as other apparatus procedures.

It is advisable to pay attention to the fact that after massage:

- dizziness, sleepiness, feeling tired         

- headache,  muscle weakness  

- increased thirst and need to urinate

- feeling of coldness

Recommendations:

Both before and after the massage should drink plenty of water or herbal tea, it

helps residue leaving from the body.

Before and after the massage is not advisable to consume alcoholic beverages.

It is not advisable to get a massage too full stomach and also not too hungry.

Before and after the massage is not advisable to exercise or intense physical

exertion.

It is advisable to come up with clean skin.

Cosmetic facial massage.

Cosmetic facial classical massage has a long history originating from Russia, but its techniques and methods have been supplemented and improved over the years with the elements of Scandinavian facial massage.This massage has been included in the curriculum of the school already from its establishment and has gained recognition from the professionals as well as clients during the qualification practice. Cosmetic facial classical massage is also included in the CIDESCO international examination.

Several physiological and anatomical elements are taken into consideration during the performance of the cosmetic facial classical massage:

- location of the facial muscles;

- location of lymph node groups, direction of lymph flow;

- Langer’s lines should be strictly followed(directions formed by dermal collagen and elastic fiber mesh, where the skin stretches least of all);

- fixation places, their anatomic location.

Fixation points of cosmetic massage

o Other acupressure points

The cosmetic facial classical massage is a part of the basic procedure performed during the cosmetic session. Duration of the massage including décolleté area lasts for 20 minutes, being performed in a slow and fluent rhythm.

Products that may be used for the performance of massage:- base oil;- base oil + essential oil (selected according to the outstanding problem);- massage cream;- cream mask;- if the massage is planned at the beginning of the procedure, it may be

performed using cosmetic milk (for example, if the purpose of the basic procedure is a mechanical cleansing of face).

Indications of the cosmetic classical massage:- improvement of microcirculation;- abatement of oedema;- enhancement of venous flow;- toning up facial skin and muscles;- improvement of facial skin tone;- smoothing of small, sublime wrinkles;- relaxation of client;- nutrition of facial and décolleté skin, moisturizingMassage is appropriate for the clients of different ages.

Preparation of face and décolleté area for massage:

Trigeminal nerve exit points

- skin must be carefully cleansed;- performance of appropriate peeling to remove dead skin cells;- it is recommended to apply hot compress or vapasone steamer prior to

application of the massage product;

Preconditions to be observed prior and during the massage:- creation of comfortable, pleasant environment for the client in the

procedure room;- visual settings of the room, lighting;- appropriate air temperature;- pleasant, relaxing music;- avoidance of conversations between the client and cosmetician during the

procedure (facial muscles must be fully relaxed);- selection of correct and appropriate massage products according to the skin

type and condition;- Langer’s lines and fixation places (points) shall be followed during the

procedure to achieve the maximum effect;- Selection of intensity of massage strokes according to the type and

sensitivity of skin. Percussion is recommended to be replaced with stroking;

- cosmetician shall have a good knowledge of the massage scheme and he/she shall provide excellent technical performance;

- in order to achieve maximum effect from massage and to ensure the sustainability of this effect, it is recommended to undergo a therapy course (15-20 massages 1-2 times per week);

- massage is performed slowly;- a fluent, homogenous rhythm shall be followed (except for percussion and

stokato technique);- cosmetician’s hands during the procedure shall not be taken off the client’s

face (décolleté);- massage movements shall not be applied in the area of thyroid gland;- joining movements that are performed against the Langer’s lines shall be

worked in a gentle manner without moving the skin aside- the applied massage oil or cream shall be enough during all the treatment

procedure. - hand movements are gentle and plastic.

Contraindications:- purulent efflorescence (papules, pustules, acne);- dermatitis, eczemas, psoriasis - enlarged lymph nodes- herpes;

- rosacea;- acute respiratory diseases- recent visit to the dentist;- cerebral concussion (up to 6 months)- dizziness;- dynamic blood circulation disturbances- new growths on face (oncology);- infectious eye diseases- allergic reactions to the massage oil or cream-

After massage:- if the base oil and essential oils are applied, they shall not be washed off

due to their long term effect; - other massage products are washed off with warm water and followed by a

mask and the final procedure – a cool compress, tonic and a cream for eye area and face.

Massage techniques/methods used in the cosmetic facial classical massage:

- stroking: one of the most commonly used techniques. It is performed at the beginning and end of the massage. It enhances microcirculation, lymph flow, strengthens muscles and affects the nerve endings. Stroking has to be slow and rhythmical.

- kneading: comparatively intense effect, affects nervous and circular system activity and lymph flow, improving tissue trophicity (metabolism).

- percussion: active type of massage, improves muscle tone. May be performed in several ways – with finger tips, palm’s outer edge or folded palms.

- vibration: strong technique with stimulating effect, performed with internal surface of palms or fingertips.

All these technologies are used in the classical massage (except for friction).

Prior to massage it may be beneficial and is recommended to perform hand training:

- raise hands, energetically close the palms in fists and open them;- „shake out” hands, relaxing them, while raising arms sideways and

upwards;- place palms of both hands together and press them to the right and left

using muscle strength;- place palms of both hands together and press the finger pads against each

other to one and then the other side;- stretch arms and make circular movements with palms to the right and left;

- bend fingers in the first and the second joint and then release them

Cosmetic facial classical massage (scheme No1)

Cosmetic facial classical massage (scheme No1 - continuation)

Neck and decolte massage (scheme No2)