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One circle of fabric makes a vest that highlights both sides of a special fabric. Choose a fabric that looks good on both sides.
Photo: Jack Deutsch
To create this vest in less than an hour, you use two measurements to draft a circle and then just cut fabric and the armholes and bind the edges.
For a super-comfy version, choose a thick fabric such as fleece. For a more sweater-like creation, choose a loose knit. Finish the raw edges with strips of ribbed knit; you can shape the knit easily around the curved edges, and it stretches to fit. For a quicker no-sew version, make the vest out of fleece and cut the edges with pinking shears. For a double-sided option, topstitch two layers of fleece together.
Whether you make it in a lightweight fabric or in a cozy knit, this vest is the perfect addition to any wardrobe regardless of the season.
Draft and sew the vestStart with your measurements to draft the vest pattern, and bind the edges with a coordinating rib knit.
1. Draft the pattern. Measure your bust circumference. Draw a circle with this measurement as the circle’s diameter.
2. Measure for the armholes. Measure across your back from arm to arm to determine how far apart to make the armholes. Determine the armhole depth by measuring from the top of your shoulder to about 3 inches below your armpit.
3. Draw the armholes. Center the armholes vertically on your pattern and mark them your back width apart (as determined in step 2).
4. Cut the fabric. Cut the pattern from your fabric, slashing open the armholes.
5. Cut and press the binding. Cut out 3-inch-wide strips of ribbed knit with the ribs running perpendicular to the strip. Fold the ribbed binding in half with wrong sides together. Align the long edges, and press. Fold the raw edges towards the fold, and press.
Fold the binding’s raw edges toward the fold, and press.
6. Bind the edges. Sandwich the wrap’s raw edges in the fold of the binding, and topstitch it in place. Turn under any raw ends.
Sandwich the wrap’s raw edges in the fold of the binding.
Topstitch the binding in place.
7. Make the armhole binding. Cut two strips of pre-pressed binding 21⁄2 inches longer than your armhole. Pin them right sides together with the short ends aligned. Draw a 11⁄4-inch-long line centered on each end. Sew 1⁄16 inch around the line through both layers to form one end of the armhole, and cut as shown above. Repeat for the other armhole.
8. Fold the armhole bindings. Turn the binding right-side out, as shown at right. Turn under the short end’s raw edges 1⁄2 inch, and press.
9. Finish the armholes. Pin the bindings to the armholes, sandwiching the raw edges inside the bidning. Edgestitch the binding in place.
Pin the binding to the armhole.
excerpted from Threads m
Swimsuit Cover Up
As Promised, all my DIY's, this week, are beach related. Summer is approaching fast,
and I needed a cute cover up, Pronto. Today I did a super easy, inexpensive, swimsuit cover
out of two scarves. I saw this a long time ago in a Martha Stewart Magazine. I can never
find cute cover ups in stores that fit me, Plus the ones I pick are always super expensive. This one fits me perfect and it is super light
and airy.
Ready to make one?
Tutorial Things You Need
1. Two scarves the same.~ They can be different colors but should be the same length.my scarves measured 6 feet long by 2 feet wide. (Wal-mart $8 dollars a piece )2. Sewing machine3. Matching thread
Lay your scarves down, stretched out completely. Find the middle and measure 7
or 8 inches from the middle leaving a 14 to 16 inch gap.
Sew a straight stitch to your first mark then again at your second mark.
Place the garment on you and measure where you want to start sewing under the arms, I
used safety pins, not straight pins, so I could keep trying it on. You could also do a
straight stitch down from under the arms, I chose a more fitted look, like pictured above.
Before you sew it, try it on, that way you can tweak it.
How easy is that? Now you are ready for the beach runway!
Here is another version,~ which I have to
make~ but it is a shirt. How cute is this.?
Tamara made this on her blog,
Etcetorize. HEREIf you have not been to her blog, you have to check it out. She makes amazing clothes and
jewelry!
Now here is H modeling it for me. Thank you H.!!
I love you!
Have a wonderful Friday Everyone!!<3
Anne
Why I love this? Because it is the perfect accessory to any plain dress. Also, great to make a summer dress into a winter dress.
Start by using a piece of fabric about 12 inches wide and 20 inches long. Pleat by folding and pinning along the edge where you want the sleeve to start. Then flip around to the last fold and
start again. Each side I made about 4 pleats each. Trim any excess fabric.
Pin the folds you make and sew into place.
Top stitch right on the dress or add side panels and a back so you can wear it with other dresses. Also cute adding them on plain t shirts (white tee with cool sleeves like this sounds lovely).
http://www.stylebistro.comhttp://www.pinterest.com/tanne808/soda-tab-bags-n-things/
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How to make Survival Bracelets? Learning Center Add comments Apr 182012
Survival Bracelets make your bracelet not just a piece of decoration more, but also a useful tool. But this tool is not as the usual tools we should pack up; instead it’s a true versatile utility which is truly by your hand when an emergency occurred.One of the most eye-catching merits of survival bracelet is its braiding cord, which is originally used as suspension lines in parachutes, and ever used by armies the world over. But when it’s been cleverly braided into a wearable wristband, it does in fact make a perfect combination of beauty and utility. In film The First Blood, the tough guy Rambo can always make some daily things into practical survival usage. Though we’re far from war and persecution, wearing a survival bracelet on our wrist is never a useless action. Someday you’ll find it quite useful in the tough situations of everyday life, especially in the wild.With only a simple pull on one end, the survival bracelet on your wrist can be unraveled and then ready to be used in an array of non-combat situations. The parachute cord can be used to secure luggage to roof racks, stop bleeding in urgent circumstance, binding the tent in the wild etc. With such a useful decorative bracelet right by your hand, you can reduce the risks in your wildlife survival experience. What a superb item!
How to Make a Survival BraceletWHAT YOU NEED:
10 feet of 550 paracord A Buckle A tape measure A scissors A lighter
Instructions:Step 1. Wrap the cord around your wrist. Adjust the cord and make sure you can slip a finger between the cord and your wrist. Record the full length.
Step 2. Fold the cord in half, thread the doubled-up cord through the hole in one end of clasp. Make a knot as the picture illustrated above. Thread the other end of the doubled-up cord in the hole in the other end of the clasp. Fold the cord in half again, strengthen the four string cord and adjust the cord to the recorded length in step 1.
Step 3. Make a knot. To start, take the cord on the left and let it go under the base cord and up the cord on the right. Take the right cord and thread it down through the loop on the left side formed by the base cord and the left side cord. Pull tight.
Step 4. (Repeat 4 and 5). But this time, we should take the cord on the right first, and let it go under the base cord and up the cord on the left. Take the left cord and thread it down through the loop on the right side formed by the base cord and the right side cord. Pull tight.
Step 5. Repeat step 4, 5, 6. And when the base cord has nearly been wrapped up by knot, your survival bracelet is nearly done.
Step 6. Trim the tag ends and melt them. Be careful when you’re melting the tags, you’d better use a hot metal instead of flame to avoid melting other parts of your crafts.
Step 7. Wrap the survival bracelet around your wrist, close the clasp. Wear it on your wrist to prepare for the tough situations in everyday life.
9 moduri de a purta esarfaAsa cum am mentionat in postul anterior, dorim ca astazi sa continuam discutia despre esarfe si sa prezentam detaliat 9 modalitati elegante de a purta esarfa. Nu uitati ca un strop de eleganta o puteti adauga tinutei purtand un inel de esarfa sau o brosa.
Modalitati elegante de purtare a esarfelor
1. Pentru realizarea acestui model aveti nevoie de o esarfa dreptunghiulara pe care apoi o veti indoi o data sau de doua ori pe lungime.
Apoi veti indoi inca o data esarfa de la jumatate si o veti trece in jurul gatului. Prin bucla formata la indoire veti trece capatele libere ale esarfei.
2. Acesta este modelul clasic de prindere al esarfei. La acest model veti avea nevoie de o esarfa
patrata mare.
Doua colturi opuse ale esarfei se vor indoi si se vor suprapune ca in imagine :
Esarfa se indoie inca odata pe lungime, apoi se trece in jurul gadului si se prinde intr-un nod lejer.
Se realizeaza si al doilea nod , avand grija ca apoi sa ascundem nodul facut rasucind usor de el spre interior.
3. Pentru acest model este nevoie de o esarfa dreptunghiulara mare si de un inel de esarfa ( inele de esarfa se gasesc in anumite magazine specializate de bijuterii sau in magazinele on-line).
Se trece esarfa in jurul gatului , se pozitioneaza inelul pe o latura a esarfei
Partea ramasa libera a esarfei se impatureste precum un evantai si apoi se trece prin inel ca in desenul de mai jos.
La final se deschide “evantaiul” in partea superioara.
4. Pentru a realiza acest model aveti nevoie de o esarfa patrata.
Esarfa se pliaza pe diagonala iar colturile pliate se leaga intr-un nod lejer la spate
5. Pentru a realiza acest model aveti nevoie de o esarfa patrata mare care se pliaza pe diagonala si un inel de esarfa.
Pe una din laturile pliate se trage inelul astfel incat sa se creeze o bucla la mijlocul laturii.
Acelasi lucru se face cu cea de-a doua latura , creandu-se astfel o funda in jurul inelului.
6. Pentru acest model este nevoie de o esarfa patrata si un inel de esarfa.
Esarfa se pliaza pe diagonala si se prinde intr-un nod lejer la spate.
Partea de sub gat din fata se trage prin inel atat cat permite esarfa.
La final se aranjeaza partea trasa prin inel in mod similar cu o cravata.
7. Pentru realizarea modelului aveti nevoie de o esarfa dreptunghiulara care se pliaza pe lungime o data. Modelul se aseamana cu modelul 3 prezentat inainte, diferenta consta in faptul ca la final prin inel se trage mai mult de partea superioara a esarfei, desfacand evantaiul mai mult si oferindu-i un aspect mai neglijent .
8. Pentru realizarea acestui model este nevoie de o esarfa dreptunghiulara. Modelul se realizeaza similar nodului de cravata, cu exceptia faptului ca la ultima indoire esarfa nu se trece prin nod, cu desaupra nodului asa cum se observa in fotografie. Dca nodul de crvata vi se pare dificil, atunci realizati un nod simplu, mai lejer, care sa aiba volum si o latura a esarfei o treceti peste nod.
9. Pentru realizarea acestui model aveti nevoie de o esarfa dreptunghiulara pe care o veti innoda la mijloc.
Asezati nodul esarfei sub barbie si apoi treceti cu laturile libere in jurul gatului si apoi prin nod, in directii opuse. Aranjati nodul in asa fel incat acesta sa aibe volum si sa acopere suprapunerea celor doua capete ale esarfei.
BOW-TIE BIKINI Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: pattern design, sewing, swimwear | [2] Comments
Featured: Bow-tie Bikini by Laura Urbinati
If you’re intent is on looking your best at the pool this summer, you might take matters into your own hands and make a swimsuit that will turn heads no matter where you happen to be swimming or lounging. This bikini design* from Milan-based Laura Urbinati is fresh, young at heart and very chic. Decide whether you want to use two-way or four-way stretch fabric, which will impact the durability of your swimsuit. Four-way stretch (Lycra® Spandex) will be more elastic for running, jumping and playing in the water, while two-way stretch (cotton/spandex tricot) has a tendency to run if the wearer participates in lots of activity so it is better for sun-bathing.
You will need:
about 60 cm [2/3 yd.] of stretch fabric about 30 cm [1/3 yd.] of “nude” tricot lining 2.5 m [2 ¾ yds.] of thin swimwear elastic (0 .5 cm [1/4"] width) 1 bra hook closure set Coordinating nylon thread
PATTERN
CUTTING
Cut bra cup 2X self
Cut bra cup lining 2X
Cut side back strap 2X self
Cut bikini back 1X self
Cut bikini front 1X self
Cut bikini internal flap (lining) 1X
Cut bow ties 6X self
Cut shoulder straps 2X self
ASSEMBLY
To make the bra and bikini:
1. Cut swimwear fabric (self) along the solid lines (note: cutting is done so that 1 cm. turns are included along the edges that are then folded to contain the swimwear elastic within the finishing). Cut the bikini internal flap and the bra cups in a “nude” tricot lining.
2. Stitch the dart seam that is marked on bra cup pattern to create the shape of the cups, sewing together the cups on the center front (CF) and line the bra. Sandwich the back straps on left and right at the side seams between the self fabric and the lining.
3. Then topstitch the entire perimeter and finish with the elastic turned and zig-zag elastic finish on the backstraps.
4. Create the shoulder straps by cutting two strips of fabric as pattern to be folded upon themselves to obtain the finished width of 1 cm; then sewn for their length and attached to bra (see pattern, red dots).
5. Cut 6 bow tie shapes. Layer in pairs and sew with RST, then turned right side out, tie the bows in 3 knots to be applied on bikini at the sides and the bra in the middle (CF).
6. Insert a closure hook closing at both ends of the back straps.7. Line the bikini front by joining the crotch seam to the back and reverse-layer with the
internal flap (at crotch seam) and baste along the sides to the self fabric.8. Join the sideseams and outline the waist and leg openings with elastic. Finally, turn the
edges and zig-zag elastic finish.
* Italian size 42 (this is size 36 European or 6 US)
August 31, 2008
HIP HOLSTER Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessories, patterndrafting, sewing | [8] Comments
Travelling through the urban jungle isn’t like dustin’ crops, buddy! For one thing, you’ve got to make sure you’ve got all your gear with you. You’ve got a cell-phone, iPod, headphones, keys, wallet, sunglasses… Before you know it, your pockets are bulging, and you’ve got nowhere to hook your thumbs and look cool.
I’ve found this awesome holster that hold lots of gadgets, and keeps them readily available. You never know when you’ll need to grab your cellphone, iPod, wallet, keys, headphones, pen, whatever… so make sure they were right at the ready to go. The pattern is easy and the fabrication is simple.
You will need:
1 yd. of cotton poplin or duck, 60″ wide 5/8 yd. of fusible interfacing, 60″ wide 1 closed 8″ coil zipper 1 square ring, 2″ diameter 1 slider, 2″ diameter 1 dome snap set, 3/4″ diameter 30″ of cable cord, ¼” thickness
Coordinating thread
PATTERN
CUTTING
Cut ring tab and wallet #5 2X and cut all remaining pieces 1X in fabric.
Cut all pieces 1X in fusible interfacing.
Cut 30″ of 1 ¼” wide bias binding for piping.
ASSEMBLY
1. Make up piping trim with bias strip and cable cord using a zipper or cording foot.2. Iron the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of all fabric pieces except 1 wallet piece
(#5), following the manufacturer’s directions.3. For the cell latch (1), fold right sides together and stitch long edge and one short end
using ½” seam allowance. Grade and trim corner. Turn right side out. Press.4. Topstitch around the perimeter. Attach top part of dome snap as illustrated, following
manufacturer’s directions.5. For cell pocket (2), sew each miter corner using ½” seam allowance. Trim.6. With right side together, fold pocket in half and align corners one on top each other.7. Sew along the raw edge, leaving an opening on one side for turning. Trim and grade
seams.
8. Turn right side out and press finished edge. Attach bottom part of dome snap as illustrated, following manufacturer’s directions.
9. For ring tab (3), layer both pieces with right sides together. Sew along both shaped sides using ½” seam allowance. Trim and grade seams (the center should be 2″ wide). Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along finished seams.
10. For wallet, turn under straight top edge of one piece of #5 and stitch down. Layer this piece with the second #5 piece to create a pocket. Baste outer edges together. Attach top (4) and bottom (5) together, then topstitch this seam. Apply corded piping to outer edge. (clip the piping in the corners to release the buckling).
11. Attach zipper around top edge of the face of the wallet, next to the piping. Start midway up side, over the top, and down the opposite side.
12. For the wallet side (6), fold strip in half with right side together and sew up short ends using ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.
13. Fold “loop” in half with wrong sides together and match up raw edges. Baste together.14. Press the folded edge.15. Pin and baste raw edge of wallet side (6) to zipper and remaining wallet front (4-5) along
the piped edge. Sew wallet side (6) close to zipper through all layers using a zipper foot and continue around the face of the wallet section.
16. For the holster shoulder strap (7), fold the fabric with right sides together and pin/baste the long edge. Stitch across both short ends and the long edge leaving 5″ opening for turning using ½” seam allowance. Grade and trim corners.
17. Turn right side out. Press. Topstitch around the perimeter.18. Wrap ring tab (3) around 2″ square ring.19. Position the holster strap face up with the folded edge of the strap to the left.20. Place the wallet on the wide end of the holster strap. Pin in place. Sandwich the ring tab
(3) between the wallet and the strap midway between zipper and bottom of wallet. Baste the wallet in place. Edgestitch through all layers around pressed edge of wallet.
21. From top of wallet, measure upward 6 inches. Center cell latch (1) on holster strap face down. Sew across unfinished short end. Trim.
22. From top of wallet, measure upward 3 inches. Center cell pocket (2) on holster strap. Pin/baste and edgestitch around finished edge being certain to catch the turn opening in the seam stitching.
23. Apply 2″ slider to narrow end of holster strap. Insert narrow end of strap through the square ring and back on itself to the slider. Tack ends in place.
August 31, 2008
HANDKERCHIEF SKIRT Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: patternless design, sewing, skirt | [21] Comments
A handkerchief pointed-hem skirt is flattering to all, but especially for short-legged people because the points break up that horizontal hemline. No pattern is needed to make this skirt style. It is a simple block layout.
One easy way to get that effect is to hem two squares of fashion fabric, each having four points (called a “handkerchief” hem) and layer them for an eight-pointed look. Experiment with swatches of opaque and transparent fabrics as you design and discover what happens when you overlap two layers of the same colour or harmonizing colours. The top layer could be trimmed shorter than the under layer for a tiered look and the hemline could be decorated with flat braid trim or fringe, if desired. Be creative!
You will need:
2 ½ yds. of fashion fabric, 45″ wide 1 yd. of waist band elastic, 1″ wide
Coordinating thread 10 yds. of flat ribbon braid (optional)
PATTERN
The size of the circular opening should be just big enough to pull over your hips, and can then be tightened with elastic. The circumference of a circle is about 3 times its diameter, so for a person with 44″ hips, a 7″ radius is needed to create the opening. Use the chart provided to make the circle you need. Fold a square piece of paper in half, then half again. From folded point, measure out a radius to create a circle equal to your hip measurement and draw an arc. Cut on this line and open paper flat. Measure the circumference of your template.*
ASSEMBLY
Cut 2 squares of fabric doubled the finished length.Hem each square with a narrow double-rolled hem.Apply trim (optional) parallel to hem, several inches from the edge. Miter at corners.Layer both squares, with bottom layer FACE DOWN and top layer FACE UP, as illustrated for an eight-pointed look.
Place template in center of square and trace out.Stitch on chalk mark. Cut out center of circle allowing for a ¼” seam allowance.Turn bottom layer out through the opening so that bottom layer lies flat on top. Press seam flat.Topstitch around the edge of the circle.Cut elastic equal to your waist measurement less 3 inches.Butt the ends of the elastic together and zigzag stitch together.Sandwich elastic between the 2 layers without twisting the elastic.Stitch through all layers around the opening to encase the elastic. Make casing slightly wider than the width of elastic.
* TIP: Increase or decrease the circle by 1/8″ to change the overall total circumference measurement by 1/2″.
August 30, 2008
FORTUNE COOKIE PURSE Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessories, patterndrafting, sewing | [3] Comments
Confucius say: “Make this bag and good fortune will bestow upon you.”
You will need:
½ yd. of Fashion fabric, 45″ wide ½ yd. of Satin lining, 45″ wide ½ yd. of Fusible interfacing, 22″ wide 1 yd. of Cording Coordinating thread 1 Closed nylon zipper, 12″ long 1 shank button
PATTERN
CUTTING
Cut fashion fabric, lining, and interfacing each 1X.
Cut cording 16″ long 2X; button loop 4″ 1X
ASSEMBLY
1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of fashion fabric following manufacturer’s directions.
2. With right sides together, lay lining on top of fashion fabric. Baste together.3. On centerline, draw a narrow rectangle equal to the zipper length + 1/8″.4. Staystitch around this outline.5. Cut down center of rectangle and diagonally into the corners at each end using sharp
pointed scissors. Remove basting.6. Flip fabrics right side out by inserting lining through slashed opening.7. Press seams of opening flat for a neat professional look.8. Place zipper face up in center of opening. Pin and baste into place.9. Topstitch around the zipper opening. Open zipper.10. Add 2 long cord loops, one on each end of bag. Double the cording to form a large strap
loop. Attach cut ends side-by-side at end of zipper. Sew a button loop to on end and attach a shank button on the other (as shown in model). *
11. With right sides together, fold the fashion fabric in half and match notches. Pin and baste together along curved edge. (Keep lining free).
12. Stitch curved seam and catch cording in the seam using a ½” seam allowance. Clip and notch seam allowance along curve.
13. Repeat procedure for lining, leaving a 5″ opening.14. Turn bag right side out through zipper opening and slip stitch lining seam closed.15. To form the fortune cookie shape, “fold” purse and latch button to the button loop.
* OPTION: You can also make 1 long strap loop to slip through the button loop and draw up on it and omitting the button, if desired.
August 29, 2008
VESTS MAKE THE MAN
Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: fashion, menswear, patterndrafting, sewing | [6] Comments
Leather vests are an ideal fashion in traditional or western design for all seasons. It makes a bold statement when worn as outerwear when the weather is too warm and unforgiving for a jacket. Vests with simple styling and function can replicate your looks and will make you look simply outstanding. So get in this garb and feel the punch in any season.
You will need:
cowhide leather kasha lining fusible interfacing coordinating polyester thread double-sided leather tape, 1/4″ wide leather machine needle 4 dome snaps bone turner
MEASUREMENTS
Chest – measure just under the arms around the upper body.
Back waist length – measure from nape of neck to waistline.
Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades.
PATTERN
Draw a straight line and locate a point. Label X.
1 from X = back waist length + ½”
2 from 1 = midway between X and 1
3 from 1 = 3″
Square lines across the paper from these points.
4 is located midway between X and 2
5 from 1 = ½”
Join 4 and 5 with a straight line.
6 from 5 = ½”
7 from X = 3 ½”
8 from 7 = 1″
9 is located where line 4-5 intersect line 2
10 from 2 = ½ chest measurement + 3″
Square up and down from 10.
11 from 10 = 1/3 the distance from 2 to 10.
Square up and down from 11
12 is located at intersection of line 1.
13 is located at intersection of 1 and 10.
14 from 2 = ½ back width + ½”
Square up and down from 14.
15 from 14 = 1″
16 from 11 = 1″
17 is midway between 15 and 16.
Square down from 17 to locate 18 and 19.
20 and 21 are ½” on either side of 18.
Shape the side seam as shown.
22 is located at the intersection of X and 10.
23 from 22 = 3 ½”
24 from 10 = 1″
Join 23 and 24 with a straight line.
B from 16 = 6″
C from 11 = 6″
D is located midway between B and C.
Join 8 and D with a straight line.
25 from 8 = 4″
26 from 23 = 8 to 25
Shape armsyce with a deep curve in the front and a shallow curve in the back.
27 is the intersection of 10 and 3.
28 from 27 = 2″
29 from 28 = 2″
At point 12, draw a welt pocket opening 6″ x 1″ as shown.
Shape the front hem as shown.
Trace off the front of the vest, from the shoulder down to the front, and the bottom edge to the side seam. Make a front facing pattern with at least 1 ½ inch width at shoulder and hem.
Trace off welt and double its width. Add seam allowance.
CUTTING
Vest Front – cut 2X
Vest Back – cut 2X
Vest Facing – cut 2X
Front Lining – cut 2X
Back lining – cut 2X
Front interfacing – cut 2X
Welt – cut 2X
ASSEMBLY
1. Sew the welts onto the front sections of the vest.2. Place the vest backs right sides together. Leather tape the back seam. Sew the CB seam.
Flatten the seam with a bone turner and clip seam allowance if necessary.3. Place the vest back and vest fronts right sides together. Leather tape the back and front
together along the shoulders and sides.4. Stitch the vest back and fronts together along the shoulders and sides, using 1/2 inch
seam allowance. Flatten the seams with a bone turner.5. Iron the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the front facing using a low heat setting
and presscloth.6. Sew the front lining to the front facings.7. Sew the lining fronts and back together the same way as the outer portion in step 3 and 4.8. Place the vest and the lining right sides together, lining them up along the edges, and use
small paper clamps to keep them together. Stitch the vests along the front and neckline, and around the armholes. Stitch along the lower edge of the vest front, leaving the lower edge of the vest backs unstitched.
9. Turn the vest right side out. Use the bone turner to gently push out the edges of the vest.
10. Turn the un-sewn edges of the lower back to the inside of the vest, so that the folded edge is even with the rest of the back. Press the folded edges under, and leather tape them together.
11. Top-stitch along the outside edges of the vest and the armholes. Make sure the lower edge of the back of the vest gets sewn closed in this seam.
12. Apply the snap domes to the front of the vest following the manufacturer’s directions.
(Note: A man’s vest closure laps from left to right).
August 27, 2008
HALTER GOWN Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: eveningwear, fashion, patterndrafting, sewing | [12] Comments
Silk charmeuse is pure luxury. It is soft, elegant, and surprisingly versatile. Charmeuse is a medium weight, woven silk with a lustrous appearance, rather like the surface of a pearl. And like the pearl which it resembles, it is an elegant classic!
Try it to create this alluring halter gown… the perfect creation in a super flattering style. Very easy pattern to make, the halter is not fitted, so slips over the head and ties at the nape while a fabric rosette adds interest detail for a romantic touch.
You will need:
3 ½ yds. of charmeuse, 54″ wide 3 ½ yds. of sheer organza, 54″ wide 3 yds. of satin ribbon, 3″ wide
Coordinating thread
PATTERN
CUTTING
Fold fabric in half on crossgrain with selvedges aligned. Baste selvedges together with long stitches.
Place centerfront [CF] of pattern on fold. Weight down and cut out fabric 1X on fold.
For rosette, cut pattern 1X on true bias grain
ASSEMBLY
To make rosette, pink curved edge. Fold fabric lengthwise in half. Sew a running stitch along the folded edge and gather tightly. Starting with the narrow end, spiral the fabric onto itself and tack gathered edge as you form the rosette.
Staystitch 1″ either side of notch [●] on centerback seam [CB] using ½” seam allowance. Clip seam allowance to stitching.
With wrong sides together, layer the charmeuse and organza. Pin and baste between ● to CF. Sew seam using ½” seam allowance. Clip a V-notch in seam allowance at CF. Press seam open.
Along curved edge, match edges and sew both layers together using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim seam allowance. Turn right side out through CB seam.
Press seams flat. Baste CB seam together. Topstitch along curved seam through both layers to finish the hem.
Cut ribbon in 2 pieces for strap ties. On one end, fold the ribbon at a 45°angle with a ½” extension.
Align the L-shape to the CB with the garment face up and place the ribbon on top of the finished edge, stopping 3″ from CF. Repeat in reverse on the opposite side of the CF.
Topstitch ribbon ties through all layers of the garment on both edges of the ribbon.
With right sides together, pin and baste CB seam. Stitch back seam using ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.
Crisscross strap ties at a 90° and sew through opposite corners of the layered ribbon. Fold back “point” at CF and tack down. Attach rosette at CF.
TIP: Check this link for working with charmeuse and organza fabrics.
August 27, 2008
SOHO SLOUCH TOTE Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessories, leather, patterndrafting, sewing | [27] Comments
Suede is a natural Aniline leather that has been surface brushed or buffed on the grain side of the leather creating a nap and leaving a texture similar to velvet (softest of all leathers to the touch). Usually suede has a natural finish, but may have a light protective coat and a transparent leather dye for colour. This process increases the
leathers surface exposure making it extremely absorbent. Water drops will darken the leather but it returns to its original colour after drying.
Irresistible in butter-soft suede is this chic Italian bag from Sundance. It deftly adapts to bulky or bitty loads with ease. Zen-like styling (no zips, pockets or snaps) make this easy and versatile carryall for virtually everything.
You will need:
1 – 4 oz. [1/16" thick] Suede split hide, 16 square ft. 1 spool of cotton or nylon thread 1 leather machine needle Kraft paper 1 rotary cutter with pinking blade 1 roll of double-side mounting tape, 1/4″ wide
PATTERN
Transfer pattern onto graph paper. Each square equals 1/2 inch.
Copy onto a folded piece of kraft paper so you have the entire pattern for easy 1-ply cutting of the leather.
Dimensions: Approx. 11″H x 9-1/2″W.
CUTTING
Check skin for any tears and blemishes on the face of the suede. Chalk around them to avoid them when cutting.
Chalk out pattern on skin and cut out using pinking blade of a rotary cutter. Use a cutting mat to protect cutting surface. Cut base 1X and sides 2X. (Raw edges will not fray).
ASSEMBLY
Tape one seam [AC] with mounting tape of each side section of the tote.
On one side section, with right sides together, remove the backing on the tape and align with opposite end of section [AC] to form a bag loop. Stitch ¼” seam allowance along AC. With a bone turner, crease the seam open. Fold the seam allowance to one side and edgestitch along seam on the face through all the layer. (I use a Teflon ® presser foot to reduce drag).
Repeat the above directions for the other section.
Join each side with right sides together from B to D with mounting tape. Stitch ¼” seam
allowance. Now you will have 2 handles.
At each X mark on the side section, snip a ¼” slit.
Tape the perimeter of the base on the wrong side with mounting tape. Place the X notch of the side sections at each corner of the base. (The slit will create a square corner). Remove backing one strip at a time and join with wrong sides together. Machine-stitch from D around the bottom, pivoting at X and continue around the base of the tote.
August 25, 2008
CLASSIC THISTLE BOW TIE Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessories, men clothing, sewing | [8] Comments
Old-fashioned silks or snazzy brocades, pop polka dot or preppy pinstripes. Or score vintage fabrics from thrift stores or even from clothes that might be out of date. Solid or stripe, paisley or Art Deco, a bow tie can do a rare thing to a man’s wardrobe: add notes of polish and surprise at the same time. Bow ties traditionally come in two varieties, the classic thistle or butterfly cut, (as pictured here) and the sleeker bat-wing variety.
Hugh Laurie or Elvis Costello? Sean Combs or Daniel Craig? Which one you prefer depends on whether you’re going for a tongue-in-cheek panache or a certain punk minimalism.
Beats fashion, and according to the New York Times, the bow tie is back this year. That’s the great thing about being playful with your wardrobe – sooner or later everything will be in vogue again.
CLASSIC THISTLE BOW TIE
Dimensions: 4.5″ long x 2.5″ wide
You will need:
5/8 yard of silk fabric, 45″ wide 1/4 yard of fusible interfacing, 45″ wide coordinating thread 1 bow tie set *
PATTERN
Enlarge the pattern on graph paper. Scale is 1 square = ½ inch
ASSEMBLY
1. Cut along the pattern’s thick solid lines for a classic thistle shape bow tie, using the outline for the longer piece first. Fold the fabric in half. Pin the pattern to the fabric, aligning it parallel to the fold (or, if you want diagonal stripes, at a 45-degree angle to the fold). Cut the fabric through the two thicknesses.
2. Repeat the process, using the pattern for the shorter piece. Now you’ll have two long pieces of
fabric and two shorter pieces.
3. Cut out one long piece and one short piece from the interfacing. Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of one of each length of the fabric pieces, according to manufacturer’s directions.
4. Pin the right sides together of each bow tie section to each interfaced bow tie section. Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-inch-wide opening along the straight side of both pieces.
5. Grade the edges (trim ¼ inch from the top edge to reduce the bulk) and trim the corners, then turn each piece right-side out (I use a loop turner) and steam press. Slip stitch the openings.
6. Attach the pieces of the bow tie set: Thread the end of the longer tie piece through the adjuster, then through one of the hook pieces. Slide the end of the tie back through the adjuster and slip stitch the end in place. Thread the shorter tie piece through the other hook piece, turn back the end and slip stitch the edges.
* A bow tie set is a very inexpensive pair of hooks and a metal adjuster that attaches to both ends of the tie. This allows you to adjust the circumference and to tighten and loosen the tie once you’ve put it on. To find bow tie sets, check the notions section of your local fabric or tailor supply stores.
August 25, 2008
SENSATIONAL SHAWL Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessories, fashion, sewing | [2] Comments
Featured: Ostrich Feather Shawl by Genaconti
Wrap yourself in elegance with a dramatic feathered shawl. Follow these easy directions, and see how simple it is to be chic.
You will need:
2 1/8 yds. of wide organza, 45″ wide 5 feather boas, each 2 yds. long Coordinating thread
1. Cut two pieces of organza 21″ wide
X 73″ long.
2. With right sides together, stitch shawl sections together with a ½” seam allowance, leaving a 5″ opening along one long edge.
3. Turn right side out. Stitch opening closed.
4. Mark and sew four lengthwise rows of stitching 4″ apart. Topstitch ¼’ around the outer edge.
5. Center one boa between each row of stitching. Whipstitch each piece in place catching only one layer of the shawl.
August 24, 2008
COVERT SCARF Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessories, patterndrafting, sewing | [3] Comments
Hit the town this fall with the unique style of the Covert Scarf. A warm cozy neck wrap like this one made by Arc’teryx™ is made with Polartec® Thermal Pro® sweater knit fleece for supreme itch-free comfort and warmth on chilly nights out. The Covert Scarf is nicely bound-finished with a zippered stash pocket laminated on it to hold house-keys and ID when you don’t want to pack a purse.
You will need:
¼ yd. of Polartec® Thermal Pro® Fleece Knit, 60″ wide 1 yd. of water-proof cotton poplin or duck, 54″ wide Coordinating thread 1 closed zipper in matching colour, 6″ long small piece of fusible interfacing (7″ x 3″)
PATTERN
Draw a rectangle 60″ X 8″. At the center taper in 1″ on each side and blend lines gradually to reduce the bulk around your neck. At each end round the corners.
Cut out in thick pill-free polar fleece.
Draw a patch pocket 8″ X 7″ and round off the 2 bottom corners. Add ½”seam allowance all around. Cut out in poplin or cotton duck.
MAKING BIAS BINDING
Binding is a way of neatening a raw edge using a separate length of fabric, usually in a contrasting colour or fabric. The binding trim is cut on the bias as this makes it slightly easier to shape around curves. Cut out in poplin or cotton duck.
Instructions on Cutting Bias Strips
To cut bias strips fold the fabric diagonally so that a straight edge is parallel to the selvedge at a 45°angle.
Press this fold and use this crease as a guide to mark parallel lines for bias strips. (fig.1)
To join bias strips place two lengths, right sides together, right angles to each other and stitch.
Open out, press seam open and trim off the overlapping edges. (fig. 2)
Instructions on Binding the Scarf Edge
Cut bias strips 4 times the finished width of the binding required (the model shown is ½” wide).
Fold both raw edges to the centre on the back, down the length of the bias strips and press. (fig.3)
Open up one side of the binding. Place this side of the binding onto the right side of the scarf with raw edges matching and baste. (fig. 4) Machine stitch on foldline of bias binding. Do not stretch bias strip and ease around curved corners.
Fold the binding over the raw edge to the wrong side of the scarf fabric.
Pin and slipstitch the fold of the binding to line of stitches on the wrong side to encase the edge. (fig. 5)
MAKING STASH POCKET
Cut out the patch pocket in poplin or cotton duck.
Find and mark the position where you would like the zippered opening to lie on the patch pocket. This should be on the right side of the fabric. You
can put a strip of fusible interfacing on the “wrong” side of the fabric at that position, to make the opening a little sturdier.
Next, place and pin a strip of fabric for the facing (3″ X 7″) so that its center covers the pocket opening position, with right sides together. Baste in place.
Chalk a narrow rectangle that’s just a little bit longer than your zipper. Sew around this outline. (fig. 6)
Carefully cut a line through both fabrics within the rectangle, as shown at left, with diagonal cuts towards the corners. The closer you can get to the stitching, the neater the pocket’s finished appearance will be. Use sharp pointed scissors. (fig. 7)
Turn the zipper facing towards the inside, through the opening. You may want to press at this stage, so that the opening is neat and professional looking.
Center the zipper into place and baste. Using a zipper foot, topstitch around the opening to secure the zipper. (fig. 8 )
Stitch along the bottom of the facing to secure to the patch pocket. (This stitching is visible on the right side.)
Turn under ½” seam allowance all around the perimeter of the stash pocket. Press. (fig. 9)
Center stash pocket on one end of scarf and edge stitch around the pocket.
August 23, 2008
FLUTTER SKIRT DRESS Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: dresses, fashion, pattern drafting, sewing | [9] Comments
An exotic twist on the classic wrap dress, this deliciously flattering style is designed for drapey, fluid fabrics like silky jersey, luscious rayon or lightweight cottons. The dress has a below-knee length half-circle wrap skirt, and features a gathered neckband on a halter tie. This great wrap-around is sure to become a staple of your wardrobe – it’s your go-to style for dressy daywear or a low-key evening outfit on the town. The dress is easy to make, requiring only two pattern pieces, and no fitting is required.
You will need:
2 ¾ yds. of fashion fabric, 45″ wide Coordinating thread 60″ drawcord Kraft paper
PATTERN
Begin by taking a square sheet of paper and folding one corner to its opposite corner at 45 degrees.
On the folded edge, mark a point X. (see fig. 1)
FRONT WRAP
From X measure 10-inch intervals to a maximum of 60 inches.
Square a line across the paper at each point.
Divide the distance between X and 10″ mark is half. Square across.
On this line, measure 5″.
At the 20″ mark, measure 1/4 of hip measurement. Label this point A.
At the 30″ mark, measure 30″.
Join X to this point with a straight line passing through A.
Join the 60″ mark to this last point at the 30″ interval.
BACK WRAP
On the 10″ mark, measure 5″. Square down to the 20″ interval.
From this intersection, measure 10″. Label this point B.
Join the point at the 10″ interval to point B.
Square down from point B to the bottom line.
Cut the line at the 5″ interval.
Open the draft and trace onto a new sheet of paper. This is the FRONT.
Re-fold the draft and cut out the solid heavy line beginning at the 10″ interval. This is the BACK.
CUTTING (see diagram for cutting marker)
Cut front 1X
Cut back 1X
Cut along selvedge fabric strip for front ties. Cut in half (2 ties).
Cut along width of remaining fabric, 2 fabric strips for back ties.
Fabric tie strips = 3″ wide.
ASSEMBLY
On all edges press under 1/4″.
Turn all edges 1/2″ except for tops and stitch down. Miter at corners.
Along each top edge, turn under 1″ and stitch to create a casing.
Press under 1/4″ along the long edges of the fabric strips and one short edge.
Fold strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Stitch along open edge. Press. Stitch along folded edge.
At notch A and B sew on a waist tie.
WEARING THE WRAP.
Insert drawcord through back casing and front casing to gather neckline. Tie over one shoulder and adjust the slack of the cord based on where the waist ties are positioned on the body.
Wrap back around body and tie in front.
Wrap front over back and crisscross tie straps around waist and draw fullness in close to body. Tie ends with a bow.
August 20, 2008
CINCH LEATHER BELT Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessory design, leather, sewing | [4] Comments
Thin or wide, bright, basic or bejeweled, a belt is an easy way to add polish to any outfit. Here’s how to update your look with the season’s most stylish belt.
Cinch Belts are the perfect way to introduce a chic pop of colour, texture or ‘bling’ to any outfit; this waist-wringing item is one of few accessories that can take any outfit up a notch, from fine to fantastic. Cinching a wide belt around the smallest part of your torso – your natural waist –
emphasizes and slims this very feminine zone while accentuating sexy curves. Thick belts create the most dramatic, waist-narrowing looks since they brace your body in a corset-like fashion.
Featured: Cinch Belt by Cynthia Rowley
If you want to stand out, get creative and fashion yourself a belt out of leather and suede can be a real joy as they are the oldest and most luxurious of all natural materials. Selecting cowhide, pigskin or lambskin for your leather project will help you to create a fashion accessory that you will cherish for years to come!
You with need:
Leather or suede hide Covered buckle kit Leather machine needle Rubber cement Topstitching thread Metal straightedge ruler X-acto knife or rotary cutter Awl Rubber mallet
COVERED BUCKLE FORM
Cut leather 2 times the width of buckle. Fig.1
Trace outline of the topside blank from the buckle kit in the center of leather (wrong side up).
On inner parts of buckle, slash through each center and diagonally into corners at each end. Fig.2
On the wrong side of leather, spread a thin layer of rubber cement.
Allow to become tacky.
Repeat glue-ing directions on face of buckle form.
Center the buckle form face down onto the leather. Smooth the leather.
Fold in edges of leather inside the buckle form with fingers – outer edges with thumb. Carefully trim away any bulk with pointed tips of scissors.
Take backing plate (the smaller piece from the kit) and insert in top portion, pressing well in to secure the leather inside. Fig.3
MAKING THE BELT
1. Choose leather and a buckle kit for your belt.
2. Cut your belt from the leather. The belt should be 1 foot longer than the waist measurement and equal in width to the interior width of the chosen buckle plus 1 1/4″.
Cut the leather using a sharp X-acto knife or rotary cutter and a metal straightedge to do this. DO NOT USE SCISSORS. (I like to use a cutting mat to do the cutting as well).
For the model sample shown,
Approx. length: S=36″, M=38″, L=40″, from inside edge of buckle to tip. Approx. width: 2 1/2″. Approx. dimensions: buckle 2 1/4″W x 3 1/2″H.
3. Decide what shape you want the free belt-end to take. You can make it pointed, rounded, square – whatever shape you like. (The model has a squared end). Mark the belt-end and use an X-acto knife to cut it to the desired shape. (Curved shapes may be carefully cut with scissors).
4. Fold the uncut end of the belt back so that a crease is made 1 1/2 inches from the belt end. Using a metal straightedge and an awl, lightly score this line on the back of the leather.
5. Repeat along the perimeter of the belt and score 3/8″ within the edge. Turn in the edge and lightly crease.
6. Since leather will not fray, use rubber cement to finish the edges. Daub a thin layer of rubber cement ½” wide along the perimeter (wrong side only) and allow the glue to become tacky. Then, carefully fold turning edges and working from the buckle end to the corners. Work the folding in both directions to miter the excess into the corners. Trim the “ears” away. (See diagram). Gently tap along the edges with the rubber mallet.
7. Topstitch the perimeter of the belt ¼” from the edge. (Use a new leather needle in your sewing machine. Try a walking presser foot or Teflon presser foot to prevent drag. Loosen your tension and increase the stitch length for better results).
8. Insert the buckle end through the slot of the buckle so that the buckle is correctly positioned. Fold the uncut belt end back so that the bucket is face up and lined up with the scored line. Machine stitch the end using double topstitching to secure.
August 19, 2008
BOXER SHORTS Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: men clothing, patterndrafting, sewing | [17] Comments
Jockey shorts are a no-no but boxers are a capital YES. No longer relegated to the underwear department, boxer shorts are everywhere. Teens wear them with T-shirts, men and women wear them for sleep shorts and athletes wear them for playing basketball. Boxers are easy to make, requiring only one pattern piece, and no fitting. So ditch those tighty-whities and embrace a new style of colourful drawers today!
You will need:
1 yd. [1 ¼] of cotton fabric (45″wide) for waist 24″-36″ [37"-45"] * 1 ½” wide sew through sport elastic, buy waist measurement minus 3 inches. Coordinating cotton thread Kraft paper
* Buy 1/2 yd. more when sewing directional prints, matching a pattern repeat, or making legs longer than 3 ½”.
MEASUREMENTSWaist – measure around the waistline at navel level
Hip – measure around fullest part of hipline 9″ below waistline
Rise – while sitting measure side of body from waistline to top of seat.
PATTERN
Draw a straight line across top of kraft paper. Label point 1 as shown.
2 from 1 = half the hip measurement + 4″
3 is squared from 2 = rise measurement + ½”
4 is squared from 1 = rise measurement + ½”
5 from 1 = quarter of the hip measurement + 2″
6 is squares from 5 = rise measurement + 9″
7 from 3 = 2 ½”
8 is squared from 7 = 8 ½”
9 from 4 = 3 ½”
10 is squared from 9 = 8 ½”
Join points 8 - 6 – 10.
Point 11 is located midway between 9 and 10.
Using a set square, locate point 12 by drawing a 90° angle 1″ below line 8 – 10 joining points 6 and 11 as shown.
13 from 2 = 1 ½”
14 from 3 = 1½”
Join 13 and 14 to create the fly front on the centrefront (CF) line.
15 from 8 = distance of 11 – 12.
Join 4 – 11 with a smooth shallow curve as shown using a French curve.
Join 14 – 15 with a smooth deep curve as shown using a French curve.
Draw a grainline from point 5 to 6. Label the CF and the CB.
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS: Cut 2X
ASSEMBLY1. Once the fabric pieces are cut out, thread mark the center front line (dash line on diagram) on the left and right sides for reference in making the fly. Pin boxer fronts right sides together and baste.
2. Sew lower part of front crotch curve, using a 1/2″ seam allowance from inner leg to 1/2″ above fly-front extension. Clip crotch curve right under fly extension, clipping seam allowance to within 1/4″ of crotch curve stitching.
3. Place shorts on the table with the right sides of the fabric facing you. Decide which side of the shorts you prefer the fly front to lap. (Men’s shorts lap left over right, but if you are making them for women then no fly is need. Trim away the fly extension). Mark lap over side with “O” and lap under side with “X” on some low-tack masking tape and place on each appropriate front piece.
4. On “X” side, fold under 1/4″ on fly extension. Fold again so that the first fold lines up with center-front marking. Sew 1/8″ from fold.
5. On “O” side, fold in fly extension to the wrong side along center-front line. Fold again so that raw edge is enclosed and lap-over side has three thicknesses and the folded edge lies along center-front line. Stitch lap-over side of the fly into place along inside edge of fly extension. This stitching will show on right side of shorts.
6. Position fly onto its placement line and press. Topstitch horizontally across the bottom edge of the fly and across top edge of fly 2″ away from the waistline edge.
7. With right sides together, sew backs to fronts at inner-leg seam. Finish seam with flat fell or overlocked seam. Turn one leg right side out. Insert this leg into the wrong side out leg. Pin remaining crotch curve together. Sew back crotch curve, continuing stitching from front crotch curve. Clip curves and finish seam.
8. Boxers are now ready for the elastic casing at waist. Press down raw edge 1/4″ along entire edge of waistline. To form casing, fold the width of the elastic plus 1/4″ to wrong side of boxers. Topstitch casing closed, leaving a 3″ opening at shorts back to insert elastic.
9. Start out by cutting the elastic your waist measurement minus 3″ or use a pair that you own as your guide to how tight to pull in the elastic. Insert elastic into casing. Try on shorts to determine how snug you would like them to fit. (If the boxers are for sleeping, elastic should be looser. Teenagers like to wear them a little lower than the waist so longer elastic is preferable).
10. To join elastic, butt ends of elastic over a piece of fabric cut twice the width of the elastic. Wrap elastic with fabric scrap. Zigzag-stitch the ends of elastic to fabric scrap. This method eliminates bulk in elastic and works to prevent frayed ends from protruding. Close opening in casing.
11. To hem shorts, press under raw edge of legs under 1/2″. Fold again so that raw edge of fabric is enclosed. Pin and baste. Topstitch hem into place.
August 18, 2008
WIDE-BRIMMED SUMMER HAT Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessories, millinery, patterndrafting, sewing | [14] Comments
WIDE-BRIMMED SUMMER HAT
You will need:
Kraft paper glue or scotch tape tape measure compass approx. 1 yd. of Pellon ® fleece interfacing, 45″ wide approx. 1 1/2 yds. of bottom-weight or upholstery fashion fabric, 54″-60″ wide approx. 1/2 yd. of lining fabric, 45″ wide approx. 3/4 yd. of grosgrain ribbon, 2″ wide coordinating thread
MEASUREMENTS
Begin by measuring the circumference of your head. Wrap the tape measure around the back of the head, over the ears, and high up on the forehead. For most people, this will be approximately 22 ½ inches. Add 1” to your head measurement. This is the head fitting measurement (This number may vary due to hairstyles as well. Most people will pull back the hair or put it in an up-do to wear the hat properly.)
Next, you need to determine the radius (R) you will use to create a circle.
Use the formula, C = 2 п R, where п = 3.14
Eg. 23.5 = 2 x 3.14 x R
R = 23.5 divided by 6.28
R = 3.75
For a head fitting measurement of 23 ½”, you need a radius of 3 ¾”.
PATTERN
CROWN
Draw a rectangle equal to the head fitting measurement X the radius amount.
Divide the rectangle into 8 equal parts.
Slash each line from the top of the rectangle to almost the bottom edge.
Overlap each section left of center by ½” at the top to nil at the bottom and glue down.
Repeat for each section right of center.
Trace this new shape onto a new sheet of paper and blend the curved topline smooth.
Add ½” seam allowance around the perimeter. Label the 2 short ends, centerback (CB) and the centerline, centerfront (CF).
Draw a grainline 45 degrees to the center line. This is the side section of the crown.
Measure the new curved seam that you have created. Record this measurement.
Using the formula again, determine R for the top of the crown.
If you measure the circumference of the top section, it should equal the curved seam measurement of the side section.
(Adjustment Tip: Increasing or decreasing the circle by 1/8” all around will change the circumference by approximately ½”).
Use a compass and draw a circle using the amount for the radius (R).
Divide the circle into quarters. At the top and bottom of the circle extend out ½”. At the sides of the circle, reduce inwards by ½”. Join these points with a smooth arc blending into each point to create an oval. Re-check the circumference of the oval. It should still equal that of the new curved seam on the side section.
Add ½” seam allowance to the circumference and draw a straight grainline from CF to CB. This is the crown top.
BRIM
Fold a large piece of paper in half, then half again; open out flat.
Draw the 2 intersecting lines. Place a point in the center of the intersection.
Using a compass, draw a circle with a radius (r) based on the head fitting measurement plus 1”.
From the same point, draw a second circle with a radius (R) equal to 3 times r.
This is the brim width. (You may increase the width of the outer edge if you desire).
The inner circle must equal the head fitting measurement. Starting at the top of the circle, measure half the head measurement to the left of center and repeat on the right of center. Mark a point at each interval. Square out from this point to the outer edges. Label these edges, CB. This is the interfacing pattern.
Trace this brim shape onto a new sheet of paper. Add ½” seam allowance all around the brim pattern. Draw a straight grainline parallel to the centerline. This is the upper and lower brim patterns.
CUTTING
Cut the crown side 1X; lining 1X (on bias grain)
Cut the crown top 1X; lining 1X (on straight grain)
Cut the crown side interface 1X (on bias grain)
Cut the brim 2X (on straight grain)
Cut the brim interfacing 1X (on straight grain)
Cut 1 strip of self bias 2” wide; length to equal outer edge of brim + 2” (on bias grain)
ASSEMBLY
On each brim piece, pin and baste CB seam with right side together. Stitch seam using a ½” seam allowance and press open.
On the brim interface piece (Pellon ®), butt the two CB edges together and zigzag stitch it together.
Sandwich the interfacing between the two brim pieces with face sides up, lining up the CB seams. Baste together.
Do rows of topstitching parallel to the outer edge, ½” apart, starting from the inner edge. (I use the width of the presser foot as a spacer.) The more stitching you put, the stiffer the brim.
Bind the outer edge of the brim with the bias cut strip of self-fabric, beginning from the CB seam, folding in ½” to bind, and then turning under the end to encase the starting point. Press edge flat.
Baste the side interface to the wrong side of the side section.
With right sides together, pin and baste the CB seam. Stitch seam using a ½” seam allowance and press open. Grade seam allowances.
Divide top edge of crown side and the crown top into quarters. Match up these points, pin and basting with right sides together. Machine stitch the side section to the top of the crown, using a ½” seam allowance. Trim and grade the upper seam allowance and interfacing only.
Repeat the same procedure for the hat lining.
With wrong sides together, place lining into crown, aligning with CB seam and baste seam allowances together. Turn right side out.
Now, insert crown into center hole of brim. Match up CB seams and pin and baste crown to brim. Machine stitch using a ½” seam allowance. (Clip seam allowance if there is any buckling).
Sew in grosgrain ribbon as a “sweatband”. This should equal the head fitting measurement less the inch. Lay the ribbon on top of the seam allowance and edge stitch along the ribbon edge. Overlap at CB. Trim the seam allowance with pinking shears. Turn the ribbon up into the crown to conceal the raw edge of the seam allowance and tack to CB seam with hand stitching.
August 11, 2008
CONVERTIBLE RAIN CAPE
Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: pattern drafting, sewing | [8] Comments
The waterproof rain cape is excellent for touring or commuting; in just a couple of seconds, you can slip it on over whatever you’re wearing, and you are protected from the rain. This model from Echo at Bloomingdales has a waist tie, ¾ zipper front, and high collar. This rain cape is generously sized, for maximum coverage and is reversible. Its four-piece design and construction give it very nice shaping and minimizes seams at the same time.
You need
1 18″ reversible nylon closed zipper 2.5 yds. of shell fabric, 60″ wide 1.5 yds. of liner fabric, 60″ wide Coordinating thread 1 roll of kraft paper or pattern-making papper 1 tracing wheel
PATTERN
On a sheet of kraft paper, draw a straight line about 2″ from the edge along the length.
In the middle of this line, mark point 1.
2 from 1 = 29″
3 from 1 = 29″
4 from 1 = 29″
Connect points 2, 3, 4 with an arc radiating from 1 as shown.
5 from 1 = 1 ½”
6 from 1 = 3 ½”
7 from 1 = 4 “
Connect points 5 and 7 with a shallow curve. This is the back neckline.
Join points 6 and 7 with a deep curve as shown. This is the front neckline.
8 is located midway between point 6 and 3. This is the zipper opening.
Square down from 7 and across from 8 to locate point 9.
10 from 5 = 1 ½”
11 from 7 = 1 ½”
Connect 10 to 11 with a curved line parallel to line 5-7.
Draw a tangent line from 11 passing through point 9 and continue to locate 12 at the intersection.
With a tracing wheel, trace out onto a new sheet of paper the following from this draft:
For the shell: trace points 6-7-5-2-4-12-3-8-6.
For the liner: trace points 10-2-4-12-9-11-10.
For the front facing: trace points 10-11-9-12-3-8-6-7-5-10 on folded edge of paper.
For the collar, draw a rectangle 9″ x 25″ *
For the tie, draw an oblong strip 5″ x 60″
*Note: The neckline on the draft may be measured to verify collar dimensions. For the demonstration, the neckline equaled 24″ around plus a ½” seam allowance.
ASSEMBLY
Cut out 1 each of the shell and liner sections on the fold of the fabric along the straight grain. (I used waterproof marilite nylon for the shell and a printed polar fleece for the liner).
Cut out 1 tie, 1 collar, and 1 front facing in the shell fabric.
With right sides together, pin and baste front facing section to liner section, matching notches at CB, shoulders, and hemline. Stitch seam. Press seam to one side towards liner portion. On face side of liner, topstitch along this seam.
Reinforce the front centerline with stay-stitch along the zipper placement line. (Make this the zipper length plus ½” for seam allowance and ½” wide for a ¼” turn). Repeat on shell section.
On the front facing, cut down center of stay-stitching ending with a triangular clip into each corner. With right sides together, pin and baste collar to neckline of liner and stitch seam. (You may have to clip seam allowance to flatten seam).
Pin and baste zipper into the opening from collar fold notch to bottom of stay-stitching. Insert zipper using a zipper foot attachment.
With right sides together, pin and baste liner section to shell section, matching notches at CF, CB, and sides (point 4). Stitch around perimeter using a ½” seam allowance. Clip notches into the curved seam allowance to flatten. Turn right out through neck opening. Press edges. Topstitch edge.
Cut down center of stay-stitching on shell layer, ending with a triangular clip into each corner. Pin and baste shell fabric to zipper tape.
Turn under seam allowance of collar along the neckline and short ends and press. Pin folded edge of collar to zipper tape and overlap the neck seam of the liner portion. Baste into place. Complete insertion of zipper by topstitching around the zipper opening and sewing the collar to the neckline.
On the liner side where the facing is joined to the liner, make a pair of 2-inch ‘buttonholes’ for the tie openings. Align the tie openings with the zipper bottom at the facing seam. (Make certain the layers of fabric are flat before you make the “buttonholes” at point 9).
To make the tie, press under ½” on both short ends. Fold the fabric strip in half lengthwise, with right side together, and stitch seam using a ½” seam allowance. Turn strip right side out. Press flat. Topstitch around perimeter of the tie. Insert through tie openings on poncho.
August 9, 2008
THE PAJAMA PANT Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: pants, patternless design, sewing | [7] Comments
These long and loose bottoms score high on the comfort index. The fabrics are fluid and the prints are fun, which means they are less for curling up on the sofa than for spending a weekend afternoon in style. Think silk, linen, rayon, or cotton…something lightweight and drapy. Balance them with a body-fitting top or stay faithful to the bedtime look with a big and beautiful sweater.
Featured: Blue-green silk pajama pants from Dries Van Noten
The cut and fabrication of these loungers is novice level and fits many shapes and sizes. It’s an easy “no-pattern” afternoon project.
You need:
1 ½ yds. of fashion fabric, 44-45″ wide Coordinating thread 1 pkg. of 1″ wide waistband elastic or 60″ drawcord Tailor’s chalk Tape measure
PATTERN
No real pattern is required but if you wish to make several pants you can make a paper template.
Recommended to control the fullness at the gathered waist is elastic or a drawsting. The waist can accommodate 30″ to 52″ approximately.
For the cut, measure your finished pant length. (waist to heel). Add 1″ for cuff hem allowance and 1 ½ ” for waist casing to this measurement. Record it.
Straighten the cut edges of your fashion fabric and square across the width.
Measure along the selvedge the pant length measurement and square a line across the width with tailor’s chalk
Divide the section equally in half parallel to the selvedge with a chalk line. These are the left and right leg sections.
On each leg section, measure in approx. 2-4″ from the lines. This may vary based on how fitted a bottom cuff you want (must be able to get your foot through however). Then, measure along the length and find the midpoint. Chalk a notch. (X and O on diagram). Join Xs and Os to bottom points at hem with a straight edge using chalk.
Take this “midpoint” measurement and plot it along the waistline. Add 13″ for the rise. Square up on remaining fabric parallel to selvedge and mark with chalk. This is the gusset section.
Divide the gusset section in half by squaring across the fabric width.
Measure across top and bottom the distance equal to half the leg distance from waistline to X. Plot it and mark with chalk. Repeat but measure the dividing line from the opposite end. Join the notches with a straight edge. (see diagram).
Cut on the chalk lines. You will have a left leg side, a right leg side, and 2 pairs of gussets.
ASSEMBLY
Finish raw edges with desired seam finish. (I used pinking shears).
With right sides together, pin and baste a gusset to each center portion of the legs. (Match Xs and Os). Stitch seam and press open.
With right sides together, fold each leg section in half lengthwise and pin and paste inseam from crotch to hem. Stitch inseam and press seam open.
Turn one leg section right side out and place it down the other leg section. Match up CF and CB at waist and align inseams. Pin and baste gussets together and stitch crotch seam. Press open. Turn pants right side out.
Turn under 1/2″ at waistline and press. Turn under 1″ all round and machine stitch down to create a casing. Open a slit in the front crotch seam at the waist to insert an elastic or drawcord. (make elastic equal to your waist measurement less 2″ if using).
Hem bottoms of legs using a 1″ hem allowance.
August 6, 2008
DUFFLE TOTES Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessory design, pattern drafting, sewing | [9] Comments
A duffle tote is an ideal type of luggage that no traveler should be without. The duffel bag is one of the most versatile and functional forms of luggage. It can be used as a carry-on for plane trips, and can also serve as the perfect overnight or weekend bag. Duffel bags can be made in a variety of styles, designs, colours and fabrics. Therefore, anyone from a business traveler, to a camper, or everyday vacationer, will find use for a duffle tote bag.
You need:
1 heavy-duty closed plastic zipper 2 D-rings, 7/8″ wide 3 or more yards of polyester web strapping, 1″ wide 1 yard of canvas/upholstery weight fabric, 54″ wide Coordinating thread Tape Measure
PATTERN
The size of your duffel tote bag is based on the circumference of a circle. The larger the circle, the larger the bag. Look for a circular object to use as a template or use a compass. ( I traced around a large pie plate).
Next, measure the circumference of the circle pattern using the edge of the tape measure. eg. a 9″ pie plate has a circumference of 28 ¼”.
Add 1″ to the circumference measurement. This is the bag height or X. (see diagram)
Now, to determine the width of the duffle, choose your desired zipper length. The longer the zipper, the wider the bag. (I chose a 22″ large-toothed plastic zipper). Measure the zipper tape, end to end, with the tape measure. This is the bag width.
Draw out a rectangle pattern (height x width).
Fold rectangle pattern in half and then each half again to quarter. Open the pattern flat.
Mark out strap placement lines on the foldlines closest to the ends. Allow 3-4″ free from top and bottom edges of rectangle pattern. (see diagram)
Cut the rectangle piece 1 time and the circular end pieces 2 times from your fabric on the straight grain.
ASSEMBLY
1. Turn the top and bottom edges of the rectangle piece to the wrong side by ½” and press.2. Using the pattern as a guide, chalk the placement lines for the strapping on the fabric.3. Place the webbing over the placement lines and pin in place. Begin in the center of the
center of the placement line and allow for the desired strap looping (I used 3 yds. of webbing and matched the colour to the colour of my zipper) then continue down the opposite end and allow the same amount as before for the strapping loop and finish where you started. You may overlap the ends together or “melt” the shorts end with a match to seal to prevent fraying of the webbing.
4. Following the dotted lines on the diagram, topstitch the webbing to the fabric as shown. To reinforce the bottoms of the strap loop, sew an X through the webbing at each of the 4 points.
5. Using a zipper foot, place one of the folded edges on top of the zipper tape with the zipper and face side of the fabric up. Topstitch in place.
6. Then, place right sides of the fabric together and on the opposite folded edge, open the fold and stitch to the opposite side of the zipper. Open the zipper and face side up, topstitch the folded edge to the zipper. Close the zipper and stitch across the open end. You will have a “tube” shape.
7. Cut 2 pieces of webbing 1″ long. Wrap each piece through a D-ring. Stitch each D-ring tab to the ends of the zipper tape with the D-ring facing the center of the tube.
8. Divide the tube ends in quarters, beginning at the zipper position. Divide each circle into quarters.
9. Open the zipper halfway. Pin the circle ends to each end of the tube following the quarter marks. Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, stitch in place. (You may have to clip the straight edge to sew into the curved edge to release any buckling of the fabric). Check for any uneven stitching then do a second row of stitching on top of the first to reinforce the seam. Turn the bag right side out through the zipper.
You can make a shoulder strap to attach to the D-rings if you desire.
August 4, 2008
SHIRRED BORDER PRINT SUNDRESS Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: dresses, patternless design, sewing | [9] Comments
Shirred sundresses with spaghetti straps are a fun wardrobe item. Whether you’re hanging out by the pool or just chilling on a summer day, this dress keeps you looking sweet and fresh all day long. The border print detail on the fashion model (ASOS Dresses) adds to the shirred bust panel with thin ribbon tie shoulder straps. This is a quick little dress that is easy to whip up in a day without a pattern and looks flattering on most body shapes.
You need:
Shirring elastic thread Coordinating thread 2 yds of cotton fabric (border print is optional), 44-45″ wide
1. For the fabric cut, measure the bust and double the measurement and this will be the width of fabric you will need.
Measure from very top of crease of underarm down to where you want the finished length to hit. (I usually prefer the knee or little higher). Add 1 inch to measurement. This will be the length of fabric you will need.
For example, for a size 10/12 and a dress length of 22 inches, the bust is 32 inches.
So fabric needed is approximately 64 x 23 inches for the dress.
From the excess fabric, cut a strip of fabric 1 ½” x 60″ for the ribbon ties.
2. To make it easy, I would find a border print that would work widthwise (44-45 in) as opposed to the usual lengthwise. Cut the length of fabric to this measurement. You are going to do this parallel to the selvedge to make effective use of the border (railroaded pattern).
On the other hand, for directional cutting on the straight of grain, cut 2 pieces of fabric (bust mmt. x finished length + 1″). This dress will have 2 side seams instead of 1 centerback seam.
3. Finish the raw seam edges of the length as desired. (I used pinking shears). Hem the top of the dress using a ¼” double rolled hem finish.
4. Begin shirring about 3/8″ under the hem stitch line. Continue shirring about 20 to 22 more rows down. Space the shirring about ½” or width of your presser foot parallel to your last row of shirring. Make sure to hand-wind the elastic thread onto a bobbin and use regular thread on the
top, loosen your tension slightly and do some backstitching to tack the shirring so it doesn’t come unsewn.
5. With right sides together, match the raw edges of the back seam and sew it closed. Press seam flat. (I usually do some topstitching to both sides of the seam so it reinforces the seam).
6. Press the fabric strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Open the fold and align each long edge to the foldline and press. Refold the strip and edge-stitch along perimeter of the strip to create the ties. Cut equally into 2 or 4 pieces as desired for ribbon shoulder straps.
7. Try the dress on and mark the placement of the ribbon ties. Sew in place. (When you sew the ribbon ties, I like to sew them on the hemline of the top of the dress and I tack them so they are secure).
8. Hem the bottom of the dress using a ½” hem finish.
July 29, 2008
TIE ONE ON Posted by Don under accessory design, apparel design | Tags: accessories, fashion, patterndrafting | [2] Comments
The Shape
The shape of the necktie is an interesting item as it tends to fade in and out with current styles. Designers prefer a shape known as the “half bottle”. This shape enables a much more becoming knot with a small touch of refinement. However the true half bottle shape which looks like the neck and shoulder of a bottle typically doesn’t lend itself to some of the more narrower styles. By narrow, I mean anything under 3.5 inches.
The four major parts of the necktie draft equation are the length of the tie from the big tip to the knot, the knot itself, the tie around the neck, and finally the tail end of the tie that is hidden behind the front of the tie. The length should be reasonable so that when one tip is touching the belt buckle, the other tip can be securely held in place in the carrier on the back side.
You will need:
sharp pair of scissors or rotary cutter silk pins ruler tailor’s chalk thread a new needle 1 square yard of silk fabric approximately 1 yard of wool tie fuse for your interlining.
THE NECKTIE DRAFT
A necktie is a symmetrical shape cut on the true bias grain (45 degrees).
You will need your height measurement and your neck measurement.
Tie Width = 3.5 – 3.75 inches (it can vary on current fashion)
Four in Hand Knot = 2 inch allowance
Pratt Knot = 4 inch allowance
Half Windsor Knot = 5 inch allowance
Full Windsor Knot = 6 inch allowance
Take a yard-length of kraft paper (36″) and fold it lengthwise. Open the paper and draw a straight line on the creased fold. Refold the paper.
FACE SECTION
On the fold, mark a point, 1.
2 from 1 = (.30 x height) + neck measurement
Square across from 1 and 2.
3 from 2 = 3 x half the width measurement
4 from 1 = ½ distance of line 2-3
Join 3 to 4 with a straight line.
Divide line 2-3 and line 1-4 into thirds. Label points 5, 6 and 7, 8.
Connect 5 and 7 with a dotted line; connect 6 and 8 with a dotted line.
9 from 2 = line 2-3
Square across from 9. Label the intersection, point 10
Join point 9 to point 2.
11 from 1 = line 1-4
Square across from 11. Label the intersection, point 12.
Join point 1 to point 12.
13 from 2 = 7 inches
Square across from 13. Label the intersection, point 14.
Along the edge 14-10-2, make a parallel line ¼” and add a ½” seam allowance.
Trace all lines with a tracing wheel, then open paper and draw in lines using a ruler to retrace the lines.
To complete top portion, extend the line 1-12 with a tangent line across all lines.
Add ½” seam allowance parallel to tangent line.
Trace out the interface pattern and tip end as shown.
TAIL SECTION
On the fold, mark a point, 1A.
2A from 1A = (.30 x height – 3) + knot measurement
Square across from 1A and 2A.
3A from 2A = 3 x quarter the width measurement
4A from 1A = ½ distance of line 2-3
Join 3A to 4A with a straight line.
Divide line 2A-3A and line 1A-4A into thirds. Label points 5A, 6A and 7A, 8A.
Connect 5A and 7A with a dotted tangent line; connect 6A and 8A with a dotted tangent line.
9A from 2A = line 2A-3A
Square across from 9A. Label the intersection of the tangent line, point 10A.
Join point 9A to point 2A.
11A from 1A = line 1A-4A
Square across from 11A. Label the intersection, point 12A.
Join point 1A to point 12A.
13A from 2A = 6 inches
Square across from 13A. Label the intersection, point 14A.
Along the edge 14A-10A-2A, make a parallel line ¼” and add a ½” seam allowance.
Trace all lines with a tracing wheel, then open paper and draw in lines using a ruler to retrace the lines.
To complete top portion, extend the line 1A-12A with a tangent line across all lines.
Add 1/2″ seam allowance parallel to tangent line.
Trace out the interface pattern and tip end as shown.
Make a carrier loop 6 inches by 1 ½ inches.
See this link to assemble and finish your necktie.
Check out this site to learn how to tie your necktie.
July 27, 2008
CONVERTIBLE DRESSING Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: dresses, fashion, patternless drafting, sewing, skirt | [19] Comments
Here’s a clever little idea…convertible clothing. This dress works double duty as a skirt. It’s ideal for weekend
wear or travel wear. It’s functional and versatile at the same time.
Basically the concept is a wrap-around garment so it is adaptable to many shapes and sizes. The body proportion that needs to be considered is no more than a 7-8 inch difference between bust and waist measurements. Other than that ratio, it is quite flexible for most body shapes. The look is versatile as well. Through different fabrications it can be anything from a casual wrap by the pool to a sophisticated little black dress for a cocktail reception.
No pattern is needed to construct it. It is a simple block layout. You need a solid colour woven fabric width of 54-60″ wide. (see cutting diagram). Small to medium sizes = 2 yds. in length and medium to large sizes = 2 ½ yds. in length. The grainline is crossgrain so this cut is not ideal for prints unless they are railroaded or abstract in direction.
Cut 2 panels along each selvedge edge 15″ wide for wrap ties
Remaining fabric panel is wrap skirt portion.
Assembly:
On the large skirt portion, fold in a ½” turn on each short edge to the wrong side of the fabric.
Then turn each folded edge in ½” again. Press. Topstitch to finish.
Along one of the long edges, create a rolled hem by turning ½”, then 1″. Slipstitch or machine stitch in place. Lightly steam the foldline of the hem.
Next, fold the skirt portion in half and align and match the finished edges. Mark the fold on the long raw edge. This is the center of the garment.
From the finished edges along the long raw edge, measure 6″ and mark this location point. Set aside.
Now, take the two tie portions and align them, right sides together, along one short edge. Pin and baste along seam using a ½” seam allowance.
Measure and chalk 1 ½” from each end of the seam. Then measure and chalk 4″ from each of the chalk marks. This will be an open slit when completed.
Machine stitch the seam, leaving the 4″ distances unsewn. Remove basting. Press seam open flat.
Divide the bust measurement by 4. (eg. for size 10 = 34″ divided by 4 is 8 ½”).
From the seam (wrong side face up), measure and chalk ¼ the bust mmt. to the left of the seam and ¾ the bust mmt. to the right of the seam.
Fold the tie portion, matching up the 2 chalk marks and mark the foldline. This is the center of the garment.
Now, with right sides together, align and match the center marks of the tie and skirt portions. Pin together. Align each 6″ chalk point of the skirt portion to the bust mmt. chalk mark on each end of the tie portion. Pin together.
To control the excess fabric on the skirt portion, make 4 pleats equally spaced on both sides of center and pin and baste to tie portion. You will have 8 pleats in total. Ideally all pleats should fold towards center.
Machine stitch seam using ½’ seam allowance. Remove basting. Press seam open then press all seam allowances upward to tie.
Fold tie portion, with right side together, in half width-wise. Align and match raw edges on each tie end. From finished front edges, pin and baste long ties and short ends. Machine stitch using ½” seam allowances. Remove basting. Press seam open. Grade corners.
Turn tie ends right side out and turn in remaining raw edge by ½”. Place folded edge on top of pleating aligning to machine stitching. Pin and baste to encase raw edges. Press a sharp knife edge along the perimeter.
Edge-stitch by machine along the tie portion edge to finished. Align small 4″ opening and slipstitch together to complete garment.
To wear: Wrap garment around bust or waist, slipping the tie end closest to body through the 4″ opening. Continue to wrap tie end around the body and tie together with a bow to the other tie end.
May 18, 2008
BABY DOLL SUMMER STYLE Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: dresses, fashion, patterndrafting | [14] Comments
A fun and fabulous trend from the runway that works for all “non-model” body shapes! Baby-doll dresses, with their forgiving fit and romantic feel, are the smart choice for balmy summer weather. Flirty, flowy, and feminine, they are a perfect staple for work, weekend, or travel. Wear with flat sandals for day and transform for night with strappy stiletto heels or wedges. For instant effortless style, choose one in a bold, solid color or floral print, like this one from Nicole Miller at Bloomingdale’s. And if you’re feeling extra daring, try a geometric pattern. Best of all, these
dresses work wonderfully well with this season’s essential accessories. Try layering with leggings underneath for a not-so-hot day or cinch high above the waist with a funky belt for an edgier look. Baby-doll dresses have surfaced as one of the most prominent fashions in the collections of designers everywhere. Given the emphasis on short hemlines and loosely fitted clothes, it was perhaps inevitable. There’s only one requirement: a great pair of legs.
THE PATTERNDRAFT
Let’s begin by folding the paper in half, lengthwise (for symmetry).
At the top of the paper, square a line across from the fold.
From this line, measure along the fold the finished length of the dress.
For example, the finish length of the model photo is 28″.
Square a line from this point across the paper from the fold.
Now along each of these draftlines, measure half the hip or bust measurement plus 6 inches (whichever is larger).
Join each point to create a rectangle. Label ABCD.
From line AB, make a parallel line 9 inches down the fold.
Divide this line into three equal sections and label the second third, point X. Square up from X.
Divide the distance from X to the edge in half. Label point O.
Join a straight line from O to D. (side seam)
Parallel to line AB, draft a line across from fold 1 inch. This will be the foldline for the drawcord casing.
Where it intersect line X, label +. Swing a shallow curve from + to O as shown.
Above point D, place a set-square on the sideseam line (OD) and draw in hemline with a smooth curve blending into the line CD from the 90 degree angle. [see bubble for detail].
For the three tiers, draw two parallel lines from line CD, each 3 inches apart.
Trace off each tier for each layer of the dress. [do this on folded pattern paper].
Add seam and hem allowances. Open the folded paper for the complete pattern piece. Indicate the straight grain parallel to the foldline with a grainline on each pattern piece.
Each pattern piece is cut 2 times and is used for both front and back portions.
Stitch up sideseams and hem. Layer 2 tiers together and drop third tier inside by stitching together at armholes before
turning right side out. Fold over top edge to create a casing and thread drawcord to create gathered neckline.
May 13, 2008
SASSY MINIS Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: fashion, patterndrafting, sewing, skirt | [4] Comments
This short and sassy mini skirt duo are a whooping 6-8 inches above the knee – true ‘60s style! Fun, flirty and flowing are the prominent themes with these bias-cuts; fabricated here in cotton sateen and checked gingham with a pretty “net” underskirting.
To draft the skirt pattern you will need:
Kraft paper (60” long x 30” wide) Tape measure Ruler Pencil
Push pin String
1. Measure around your waistline where you normally wear your skirt. (In the photo, this is a hip-hugger style, approx. 2 inches below the natural waist). Record this measurement.
2. Fold along one end of the paper, 2 inches across its width. Open paper flat and draw in
foldline with a pencil.
3. At a right angle (90 degrees), draw a second line perpendicular to the first line along the length of the paper. Do this approx. 2 inches from the edge.4. Where the two lines intersect, label this point X.5. Use this formula for a circle to determine a compass point to draft your pattern.
Radius #1 = Waist mmt. x 2 divided by 6.28
6. Tie the string to the pencil and measure the length of the string equal to the Radius. Using a push pin secure it at point X. This is a make-shift “compass” to create a circle.7. Arc a curved line from A radiating from X . Be sure to hold the pencil upright and keep the string taut as you do so.
This is the waistline of the skirt. (If you measure it with a tape measure, it should equal half your waist measurement).
8. Now, make the string 4 inches longer and repeat the last step from B radiating from X. This is the hip yoke portion of the skirt. Measure this line accurately with a tape measure. Record this measurement.
9. Now below this draft, fold the paper across its width. Open paper flat and draw in foldline with a pencil.At a right angle (90 degrees), draw a second line perpendicular to the first line along the length of the paper. Do this approx. 2 inches from the edge.
Repeat steps 4 to 7 using this formula:
Radius #2 = yokeline mmt. x 2 divided by 6.28
10. Now, make the string 10 inches longer and repeat the last step. This is the flared skirt portion of the mini.11. Use the same pattern piece but 2 inches longer for the net underskirt. Trace it off on paper.
12. In the center of each pattern piece, draw a line parallel to the foldline you began with. This is the grainline of the pattern. Indicate it with an arrowhead on each end of the line.
13. Add ½ inch seam allowances to all sides of your pattern pieces and label the following cutting directions:
Yoke – cut 4 times Skirt Flare – cut 2 times Net Underskirt – cut 2 times
April 27, 2008
EYE PILLOWS FOR RELAXATION Posted by Don under do-it-yourself | Tags: aromatherapy, patternless design, relaxation, sewing |
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Eye Pillows provide soothing relief in two ways:
1. Chill an eye pillow in a ziplock bag in refrigerator or use at room temperature to provide soothing relief for your eyes.
2. Heat for up to 30 seconds in the microwave to use as a “mini” heat pad for other parts of your body. (Do not use heated product on your eyes.)
Eye Pillows are perfect for:
Migraines and other headaches Sinusitis Rest for tired eyes Hand or foot warmers
Eye Pillows are made with 100% cotton covers (size 4″ by 9″) filled with natural grains such as millet or rice, or seeds like flaxseed or linseed, or an herb mix, such as lavender which is a favorite for calming nerves.
Combine Eye Pillows with soothing music and scented candles to maximize your relaxation experience.
To make an eye pillow, select 100% cotton percale or sateen for the inner bag. Cut a rectangle 5″ by 19″ [13 cm by 49 cm].
For the outer cover, select 100% cotton sateen or flannel. Preshrink fabric. Cut a rectangle 5″ by 22″ [13 cm by 56 cm].
To assemble outer cover, turn and stitch a ¼” double-roll hem on each short end of rectangle. Fold one end of rectangle with right side together (RST) 2″ [5cm] to create a flap. Fold opposite end of rectangle with RST to align ½” [1.25 cm] short of flap fold. (see X location on diagram). Stitch through all layers along long edges. Turn right side out.
To assemble inner bag, fold rectangle in half with RST and stitch along long edges. Turn right side out. Fill bag with a ½ lb. [200 g] of grain/seed/herb mix. Turn under ½’ [1.25 cm] at open end to inside and stitch opening closed. Insert inner bag into cover.
April 19, 2008
MOBIUS SHAWL Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: clothing, patternless design, sewing | [2] Comments
John Lennon sang on the White Album of the Beatles; “Your inside is out, when your outside is in” to express the paradox of the oneness free from illusion of a multidimensional world. The German mathematician and astronomer- theoretician A. F. Möbius discovered at the beginning of the nineteenth century, that something with two sides can have one surface: the möbius ring. The inside is the outside when one joins the two short ends together with a twist into a ring – think of the cyclic of time; visualize by joining the frontside to the backside. Isn’t it amazing?
The möbius ring is a popular pattern used by knitters to create scarves and wraps into wonderful fashion accessories out of yarn. I thought the same idea could be achieved by using double faced fabrics such as Yukon fleece. Both sides of the fabric are identical and raw edges do not fray.
The shoulder shawl, similar like the one above designed by Judy Scott of Mountain Color Yarns http://www.mountaincolors.com, can be easily made from a rectangle of two-ply polar fleece. No pattern is needed.
1. Start with a rectangle (ABCD) approx. 20″ long x 60″ wide.2. Give the rectangle a half twist.3. Align the short ends so that they overlap and A matches D and B matches C.4. Stitch through the overlapped layers and trim closely to the stitching.
April 12, 2008
ECO-FRIENDLY TOTES Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessories, fashion, patternless design, sewing | [4] Comments
You buy organic, ride public transit and recycle. It’s time to achieve the truly ultimate green lifestyle. Create your own reusable canvas shopping tote bag to replace your plastic and paper bags.
Eco-friendly and reusable, you can design a wide-range of fashionable organic totebags — numerous styles, sizes, and colours. These sustainable alternatives to your traditional shopping bags are often made using hemp, bamboo or, most popular of all, organic cotton.
What you will need:
Self fabric – 1/2 yd. of 54″ width natural fibers
Contrast fabric – 3/4 yd. of 54″ width natural fibers
Matching thread
Card or Bristol board – 6″ x 18″
If you want to launder the tote, serge or zigzag the edges of the fabric, preshrink it in the washer and dryer, then cut the bag pieces to size. (note: allow extra yardage if preshrinking)
You should have a new sewing machine needle for this project and match the size to the weight of fabric being used.
All seam allowances are ½” unless stated otherwise. RST = right sides together.
INSTRUCTIONS
Step 1: No pattern is needed. From self fabric [A], cut two 25″ x 14″ panels.
From contrast fabric [B], cut one 25″ x 15″ rectangle for bottom section, two 19″ x 7″ rectangles for the base, and a strip 54″ x 5″ for the handles.
Step 2: Fold fabric B in half lengthwise. Cut out a 2.5″ square at the lower corners of each folded end.
Step 3: For bag straps, fold strip in half lengthwise with WST and press. Open strip and fold raw edges to centerfold. Refold strip on pressed fold. Edge-stitch along open edge, then edge-stitch along fold. Press. Cut in half for handles.
Step 4: Press under top edge of each panel section (fabric A) 1-1/4″ turn. Divide top edge into thirds and mark with a pin. Open folded edge of front panel and place face up. Align strap ends to each pin location and stitch ends in place along edge. Repeat on back panel.
Step 5: Stitch each panel section to bottom section along its width, with RST. Press seams to one side.
Step 6: Fold body of bag in half with RST, aligning side seam at seam of contrasting fabric and at top edge foldline. Stitch fabric pieces together on the sides and press open.
Step 7: Matching the side and bottom seams of the fabric at point X, stitch across corners.
Step 8: Turn under ¼” along bag top and turn under foldline to create a 1″ facing at the top opening. Drop straps inside bag. Stitch facing at top edge catching the handles on the front and the back.
Step 9: Then, flip strap handles up, out of bag. Stitch 1/4″ topstitching at top edge catching handles once more to reinforce.
Step 10: On each base piece, press under seam allowance on one short end. With RST, match both pieces and stitch around edges leaving folded edge open. Grade corners. Turn right side out and slip in cardboard. Stitch open edge closed. Drop lined base into bottom of bag to reinforce.
April 10, 2008
EASY FIT YOGA PANTS Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: fashion, leisure, patternless design, sewing | [5] Comments
No pattern is required for this easy fit yoga pant as there is no waste. Chalk out cutting lines directly onto the fabric. Working off of a rectangle, I cut a triangular gusset and inverted it, re-attaching to the leg. How wide the leg fabric is depends on how full you want the final pants to be (narrower for a tapered style, wider for a relax fit). Be careful not to cut the rise too large as it will stretch and droop some resulting in a larger drop than you might think.
Use full width of 45″ fabric and select a fabric that can be cut in either direction. (eg. up or down its length). I prefer a lightweight fabric as it gathers easily with an elastic waist.
Straighten cut ends to a right angle [90 degree].
Fold the fabric, with right sides together (RST), in half lengthwise so that selvedges align. Chalk out 2 lengths for each pant leg.
The minimum outseam length is the measurement from your waistline, over the buttock and down the leg to your heel. Take this measurement while touching your toes. Add 2″ for a waist casing, 1″ for hem allowance and 1″ for seam allowance [total = 4"]. Square across fabric width.
(see cutting diagram)
At bottom of rectangle, measure half the distance from foldline to selvedge to create the leg cuff . This measurement may be tapered if you desire a smaller opening at the ankle.
For the rise, measure down 13″ from the waist along the selvedge edge. Join this point with the leg cuff point with a straight line.
The remaining piece of fabric from the leg cut with be inverted and become the leg gusset. [2 pieces for each leg].
Open each leg and sew a gusset piece to each inseam RST using a ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.
Fold each leg portion RST and align gusset seams. Sew using ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.
Turn one leg inside out. Insert right-side-out leg into inside-out leg with RST. Sew up crotch seam using ½” seam allowance. Turn legs right side out.
Turn under ½ ” seam allowance along waist edge. Press. Turn under 1-1/2″ once more to create casing. Sew along fold edges. Casing may be for elastic or a drawcord. Leave an opening to insert drawcord or elastic.
Turn up hem allowance ½” and press. Turn ½” again and sew double-turned hem.
Front and back of pants are the same, so if I use an elastic waist I sew a small button to inside CF. This “belly button” indicates the front of my pants.
March 5, 2008
T-SHIRT WITH A TWIST Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: clothing design, fashion, patternless design, sewing | [9] Comments
Turn a plain T-shirt into a high fashion wrap top, lickety-split.
Wrapping is a big component of this summer’s fashion look. If you have a plain cotton T-shirt, you can have a hot fashion item in no time.
STEP 1 Cut up center front to within 5cm (2 in.) of armhole.
STEP 2 Fold in half along center back and center front. Cut a diagonal line as shown in diagram. Cut removed section in half along center back fold line to create two ties.
STEP 3 With right sides together, stitch short edges of one tie diagonally across bottom of one point at bottom front of T-shirt .
Repeat with second tie.
STEP 4 Zigzag-stitch all raw edges; turn under 1.5 cm (5/8 in.); topstitch.
To wear, cross ties at the front, wrap around to the back and secure in a snug knot.
December 30, 2007
SMOCKED WRAP Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: accessories, fashion, patternless design, sewing | [4] Comments
Smocked Wrap
You will need:
approx. 5 yds. of 45-inch wide satin or iridescent fabric matching thread
To begin, straighten cut ends of fabric so that it is a right angle (90°) to the selvedge of the cloth. This can be achieved by drawing a crosswise thread or fraying the cut edge. Cut the crosswise edge straight.
Fold the cut edge to align with the selvedge edge from bottom to top. This with create the true bias line. Mark with chalk.
Repeat step 1 and 2 on opposite end of cloth, from top to bottom. The two triangles will be the front and back of the wrap.
With the remaining fabric, mark 9 bias strips (14.5 inches wide) parallel to one another, following the true bias (see diagram). This is the ruffle. Cut fabric along all chalk lines.
To assemble the ruffle, join each strip to one another at the short ends. Fold the long bias trim strip in half lengthwise, with wrong sides facing, and run a gathering stitch along the raw edges.
To assemble ruffled trim with body, begin by rounding the pointed ends of each triangle.(a saucer makes a perfect template). Then baste gathered ruffle to right side of the fabric, aligning all raw edges, along the perimeter of one of the triangles. Stitch gathered trim into place.
To complete the wrap, place the second triangle with right sides facing to the trimmed body piece (the trim will be sandwiched between each body piece) aligning all raw edges. Pin and baste together. Stitch around the perimeter, following the previous row of stitching, allowing a 4″ opening along one straight edge. Turn right side out and slipstitch opening closed.
To create the smocked effect, handstitch several running stitches in a circular shape throughout the body portion in a random pattern. (see diagram)
Draw up on each running stitch to gather up fabric and tie off. Hide loose ends of thread by sinking it into wrong side of fabric.
September 29, 2007
GORED SKIRT
Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: creativity, fashion, pattern drafting, skirt | [19] Comments
Learn to make skirt patterns according to your measurements; and they’re guaranteed to fit! To give you an illustration of how easy it is to make a pattern, let’s make a 8-gore skirt like
the model is wearing. For the example, we’ll use a waist measurement of 32 inches, hip 42 inches and skirt length of 24 inches. Remember, when you make the skirt for yourself you simply use your waist, hip, and skirt length measurements instead of these sample ones.
Let’s establish your height parameters.
Square across the paper to make a “T” shape. This will be the waistline.
Then measure down 8″ [20 cm] and draw a parallel line squaring from the centerline. This is the hipline.
Measuring from the waistline, draw a second parallel line equal to your desired skirt length and square from the waistline. This will be the hemline.
Now that you have your grid set up, it is time to use your body measurements to set the girth parameters.
Start by deciding how many gores you wish to create. Even numbers (4,6, 8, 10, etc.) will make your skirt symmetrical, but I like to use the “rule of 3s”. Odd numbers (5, 7, 9, 11, etc.) makes for a more interesting look. Either way, the number of panels used will create a gore skirt that will fit.
For the waistline, take your waist measurement divided by the number of panels desired.
For example, to create a 8-gore skirt to fit a 32″ [81.5 cm] waistline.
32″ divided by 8 = 4″[10 cm]
The hipline is normally 8″ [20 cm] below the waist, so at that point you’ll make a horizontal like equal to hip divided by number of panels desired + ¼” [6 mm].
Our sample hip measurement is 42″ [107 cm], so the horizontal line is 5 ¼ ” [13.5 cm] plus ¼” [ 6mm] = 5 ½” [14 cm].
With a straight yardstick, draw in the outside lines of the skirt, connecting the waist to hip to the hemline and draw in the bottom line.
At the top of the”T”, measure down ¼” [6 mm] and make the slight waistline curve.
The outside edges of the bottom are measured up ¼” [6 mm] each and the slight hemline curve drawn.
Make your
waistband to equal your waist measurement plus 1 ½” [40 mm], and the width is 2 ½” [65 mm] (your finished waistband will be 1 ¼” [32 mm] wide).
Remember you have not allowed for seams yet, so after making the skirt pattern, mark the 1/2″ seam allowance all around and add a 2″ hem. The seam allowance will be drawn around the skirt as well as the waistband.
Remember you will need to cut multiples of this pattern equal to the number of panels desired. Eg. cut 8 of the skirt pieces, since it is a 8-gore skirt.
The vertical center line of the pattern will be used as the “straight grain” line, when placing the pattern on the fabric.
September 22, 2007
FUR WRAP WITH AN ELEGANT SATIN BOW Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: accessories, creativity, fashion design, furs, patternless design | [3] Comments
In the 1920s, the fur stole was the elegant secret of radiant Hollywood divas, worn with delicate low-cut evening gowns – and even worn provocatively with trouser suits by the “enfants terribles” of the time. Today the fur wrap is once again the height of fashion – made from faux fur with a bow tie. Now, as in the 1920s, it goes with evening dresses, but also with business suits and simple knitted dresses, and today it is still at its most seductive worn against bare skin. Arrange this shapely fur around your shoulders and tie the opulent double-sided satin ribbons into a large bow. Extraordinarily beautiful and elegant, the colour – a rosé shade that is perfect for winter, looks good with all dark colours, natural shades, and greys of the season.
The soft, deep-pile woven fur is anti-static, soft and probably feels even better than real fur. It will keep its look for years, without losing hairs, and will never smell of mothballs. Measures approx. 40″ x 10″ (102 x 26cm).
You will need:
1/3 yd. (30 cm) of woven fake fur: 100% acrylic.
1/3 yd. (30 cm) of “Kasha” satin lining: 100% acetate
1/3 yd. (30 cm) of lamb’s wool interfacing: 100% wool
1 yd. (90 cm) of double-sided satin ribbon: 100% acetate
7 yds. (6.5 m) of ¾” wide twill tape: 100% polyester
With your piece of faux fur atop the work surface, place the wrong side up and chalk an “arrow” pointing the direction of the fur pile. The hairs of the fur will point “downward”.
Chalk mark the center of the fabric, and measure out 20″ [51 cm] on either side of the centerline. Square from this point to create a rectangle, 40″ by 10″ [102 by 26 cm].
Using a large dinner plate, chalk mark curved pattern outlines on each corner (see illustration). Cut out the backing with razor blade without cutting fur. Hold the fabric backing slightly off the table and pull as you slash. Do not cut out with scissors or you will cut the hairs.
For the lining, fold and pin the fabric right sides together, and measure 22″ [56 cm] from the foldline. Square a chalk line from this point to create a rectangle, 44″ by 12″ [112 by 30 cm] and repeat the arc pattern on each corner. Chalk
a notch point on each end of the foldline. Cut out the lining on the fold and open flat.
Sew a length of twill tape along the centerline of the fur piece with a hand herringbone (zigzag) stitch, keeping edge of tape flat with back of the fur. These stitches can be large as they will not show on the right side of the fur.
Sew twill tape on the outer edges to be sewn, with a hand herringbone (aka catch) stitch, keeping edge of tape flush with edge of fur backing and outline the perimeter with it. Since the “fur” has no seam allowance this will stabilize the edges from stretching and puckering.
Now, starting at the centerline, work with one fur side toward you and place the twill tape on top the fur edge to sandwich the fur edge between two layers of twill tape. Keep edges even and push hairs away from getting
caught in tape. Join twill tape to edges with a close whip (overhand) stitch. Since the tape is necessary for reinforcement, be sure to catch both tapes as you do so. Sew around the perimeter of the fur piece. fig 1
Center the lamb’s wool interfacing on the back of the fur and baste along the center and to the edges. These stitches can be large ones as they will not be visible on the right side. Trim away any excess.
Turn the outer twill tape over the seam and pin to the inside edge on the back while wrapping over the interfacing. Baste twill tape to fur piece. fig 2
Cut the ribbon length in half and secure one end to each of the “X” points. (see illustration) to the fur piece. Cut the loose end on the diagonal.
Turn in 1″ (25 mm) seam allowance on the satin lining and baste along fold. Align notches at centerline. Pin lining to edges covering the twill tape and interfacing. If lining edge puckers, clip shallowly into seam allowance to release. Slipstitch along folded edge of lining to seam edge of fur. Remove basting thread.
September 15, 2007
PATTERN DRAFTING BY HEIGHT Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: creativity, fashion design, pants, patterndrafting | [8] Comments
This pattern design method can be used to determine drafting measurements from a given figure height combined with girth measurements for the chest, waist and hips. Knowing the person’s height allows for formulations of various lengths based on the Golden Mean and combined with established size parameters, a trouser or torso pattern can be drafted for an average human body.
H = full length of body; also the span of laterally outstretched arms,
measured from finger-tip to finger-tip, is equal to the height of the body.
1/2 H = upper part of body (torso) or lower part of body (legs)
1/4 H = length of leg from ankle to knee and length from chin to navel
1/6 H = length of foot and length of forearm (measured from elbow to wrist)
1/8 H = length of head from crown to bottom of chin
1/10 H = height of face; also length of hand
Drafting By Height: Trousers (based on 8 heads per figure)
The theory based upon the Golden Mean can be used to determine drafting measurements from a given figure height of an average or off-proportioned body. You need the following
measurements to draft a trouser pattern: height, waist and hips. The scale is one head equals 1/8 of the total height.
Example:
for a person who is 5 feet 8 inches tall, one head length is 8 ½”
5′ 8″ = 68″ 68″/8 = 8.5″
Rise is 1 head plus 1″ ease plus width of the waistband
eg. rise = 1/8 height + ease + waistband width
Inseam is 4 heads minus Y (amount taken off for width of trouser cuffs)
eg. inseam = 1/2 height – Y
Outseam is inseam plus rise, or
5 heads plus ease minus Y plus waistband width
eg. outseam = 5/8 height + ease – Y + waistband width
Example:
Given a height of 5 feet, 8 inches, trouser cuff width of 18″ and a waistband 1-1/2″ wide, then:
rise = 68/8 + 1 + 1.5 = 11
inseam = 68/8 – 2.5 = 31.5
outseam = 5/8 x 68 + 1 – 2.5 + 1.5 = 42.5
Table for Leg Reduction (Y amount)
for bottom width take off Y amount *24″ 1″23″ 1.25″22″ 1.5″21″ 1.75″20″ 2″19″ 2.25″18″ 2.5″
* for shaped trouser cuffs, use less Y amount (0.5″ to 0.75″)
Trouser draft:
square both ways at 0.
0-1 = body rise + 3/8″ [1cm]; square across
0-2 = waist to hip; square across. (approx. 8-9″ [20-23 cm]).
0-3 = outseam; square across
1-4 = midway between 1-3 minus 2″ [5 cm]; square across.
1-5 = 1/12 hip mmt. + 5/8″ [18 mm]; square up to locate points 6 and 7.
6-8 = ¼ hip mmt. + 3/8″ [10 mm]
5-9 = 1/16 hip mmt. + 3/8″ [10mm]
7-10 = 3/8″ [10mm] squared across and 3/8″ [10 mm] squared down
Join 10-6 with straight line and join 6-9 with a curve line as shown.
This is the centerfront crutch seam.
Square up and down from point 8.
10-11 = ¼ waist mmt. + 3/8″ [10mm] (note: point 11 will “sit” on line 7.)
12 is located at intersection of 3 and 8.
13 is located at intersection of 4 and 8.
Square down from 5 to locate 14 and 15
5-16 = 1/2 mmt of line 5-9
6-17 = ¼ mmt of line 5-9
7-18 = 3/8″ [10mm]; join 17-18 and extend as a tangent line
19-20 = ¼ waist mmt. + 3/8″ [10 mm], taken at a 90 degree angle from tangent line so that line 19-20 touches the line 7-11. (Note: point 19 will be located on the right angle and the constructed line may not touch at point 11 as shown.)
9-21 = ½ mmt. of 5-9
Join 17-21 with curved line as shown
3-22 = 1/4 trouser cuff width minus 1/4″ [6 mm]
23 is located on kneeline.
3-24 = ¼ trouser cuff width minus 1/4″ [6 mm]
4-25 = 4-23
Join 24-25 with a straight line and 25-9 with a curved line as shown.
24-26 = 3/4″ [20 mm]
25-27 = 3/4″ [20mm]
Join 26-27 with a straight line and 27-21 with a parallel curved line as shown.
5-28 = ¼ hip mmt. + 1/4″ [6 mm]
Join 22-23-28-8 and gently curve into 20 to draw outseam leg seam.
This is an easy fit type trouser pattern. Trace off front and back patterns. If you desire extra ease (seat angle) in crutch of trouser’s back portion, cut along back hipline and open a wedge about 1-1/2″ [40 mm] wide at CB to nil at side seam. Redraw centerback seam.
September 14, 2007
CONNECT-THE-DOTS Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: fashion design, men clothing, patterndrafting | [5] Comments
How about an adult version of “connect-the-dots” to create some men’s wear? Sometimes known as a tropical shirt, Hawaiian or aloha shirt, this casual type shirt is loose fitting, short-sleeved and features a convertible collar with a rever. Make it up in a border print or traditional floral print fabric.
Take the following measurements of your man: chest, neck, arm length and finished length (usually hip level).
Note: 3/8″ seam allowance is included in draft
Working Scale = 1/3 chest measurement + 6″ (15.5 cm)
example: for a men’s medium size the scale = 42/3 + 6 = 20
PLOT EACH POINT & CONNECT-THE-DOTS
Mark point 0 and square both ways from it.
1 from 0 = ½ scale + 1″ (25 mm)
2 from 0 = ¼ scale
3 from 0 = 1/8 scale
4 from 0 = full length (30″/ 76 cm)
5 from 4 = 1 ½” (40 mm) for turn up.
Square all points across the paper.
6 from 0 = 1/6 scale + 3/8″ (1 cm); square up to 7.
7 from 6 = 1 ¼” (32 mm)
8 from 1 = 1/3 scale + 2 ½” (65mm); square up to locate 9 and 10.
11 from 10 = 1″ (25mm)
12 squared from 11 = 1″ (25 mm); join 7 to 12.
13 from 1 = 2/3 of half the chest measurement + 2″ (50mm)
14 from 1 = ½ of chest measurement + 2 ¾” (70 mm)
15 from 14 is midway between 13 and 14; square up to 16.
16 from 15 = ½ scale + 2 ¼” (58 mm); join 16 to 10.
17 is the distance between 7 and 12 – ¼” (6 mm) and is located on line 16-10.
Join 17 to 13; 18 from 17 = 1 ¼” (32 mm) and is located on line 17-13.
19 is midway 8 and 13; square down to locate 21 at hemline.
20 from 19 = 1 ¼” (32mm)
Shape armhole as shown with French curve ruler.
22 from 21 = 1″(25mm)
Join 20 to 22 for forepart side seam.
23 is located at intersection of hemline and centerfront (CF) line.
24 from 23 = ¾” (20 mm); shape front hem from 24 to 22 with 90° corners as shown.
25 is located at intersection of lines squared from 16 and 14.
26 from 16 = 1/12 scale + ¾” (20mm)
27 from 25 = 1/6 scale
Connect 26 and 27 and continue 1 ½” (40 mm) more to locate 28.
29 from 16 = ¾” (20 mm) for collar stand and creaseline of rever.
30 and 32 are each 1 ½” (40 mm) from CF line (overlap extension) as shown.
31 from 30 = 1″ (25 mm); join 31 to 29 to indicate roll-line of rever.
33 from 27 = ½” (13mm) for collar step.
Fold along line 28-32; trace out front shoulder, front neckline and front hem.
Shape self-facing as shown, making it 3″ 75 mm) wide at hem and blending uo to the shoulder for 1 ½” (40 mm). Note: The gray-shaded area should be interfaced.
Grainline is parallel to CB and CF lines. The CB may be cut on the fold.
Convertible Collar
Point 33 is the collar step for the collar and rever.
Trace out front neckline and rever, front shoulder, and roll line.
0 is located at intersection of roll line and shoulder
1 from 0 = back neck measurement (line 0-7 on body draft)
2 from 1 = 2″ (50mm)
3 from 0 = ½” (6 mm)
X is located where roll line crosses front neckline.
4 from X = 1 ½” (40 mm)
Shape 4 to 2 through point 3 with a French curve ruler.
5 from 3 = 1″ (25 mm)
Join 5 to 2 with a dash line and square on point 2 to locate 6 and 7.
6 from 2 = 2 ½” (65 mm)
7 from 2 = 1″ (25 mm)
Join 6 to 4 passing through point 3 with a French curve ruler.
To locate 8, swing an arc from 28 which is 2 1/8″ (55 mm) and another of equal size from 33.
Connect 8 to 33 and 8-7 with a slight curve. Then blend line 7-3-4. into point X.
Trace out as a separate piece for the top and under collar with the line 6-7 along a folded piece of paper.
Note: The under collar should be interfaced.
Grainline is parallel to line 6-7.
Short Sleeves*
* This may vary due to styling. Measure the circumference of the armhole from your draft.
Fold paper in half lengthwise.
Plot point 0 on folded edge.
1 from 0 = 1/6 armhole circumference + 1″ (25 mm)
2 from 0 = half of arm length.
3 from 2 = 2″ (50 mm)
4 from 0 = ½ armhole circumference (as it falls on line 1)
5 from 3 = 1/3 scale.
Divide 0-4 into 3 equal parts to locate 6 and 7.
8 from 7 = 3/8″ (10 mm)
9 from 7 = ¾” (20 mm)
10 from 6 = 5/8″ (17 mm)
Shape front sleeve cap 0-8-6-4 with a French curve ruler.
Shape back sleeve cap 0-9-10-4 with a French curve ruler.
Trace out the sleeve and the sleeve cap back portion.
Fold along line 3-5 and trace out bottom facing as shown.
Unfold paper for full short sleeve pattern piece
Note: grainline is located on line 0-2.
September 13, 2007
OFF-SHOULDER RUFFLED BLOUSE Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: creativity, fashion design, patternless drafting, sewing | [11] Comments
With the current fashion flashback to the 1960′s, try a ruffled shoulder peasant-style blouse. A great piece for casual daywear with any skirt, or an evening out because this kind of soft blouse is flattering for most figure types. And the best thing is, no pattern is required.
You will need:
approximately 1-1⁄2 yards (1.37 m) of fashion fabric that is at least 41 inches (104 cm) wide. If using a washable fabric, pre-shrink fabric before sewing.
approximately 1-5/8 yards (1.48 m) of 1/4″ inch-wide (0.6 cm) elastic.
sewing thread to colour-match.
Pattern Key – see chart for cutting instructions
*The blouse: 1 piece
*Upper ruffle: 4-1⁄2 inch (11.4 cm) wide bias strips – total length of 92 inches (234 cm)
*Lower ruffle: 5-1⁄2 inch (14.0 cm) wide bias strips – total length of 92 inches (234 cm)
Important Note: Seam allowance is 1⁄2 inch (13mm) unless otherwise indicated.
Cutting Chart
Eight Easy Assembly Steps
1. Fold and stitch blouse as shown. Blouse width is equal to your bust measurement plus 3-1⁄2 inches (8.9 cm). See cutting chart.
2. Stitch a 1⁄2-inch (1.3 cm) hem on bottom edge of blouse. Stitch a 5/8-inch (1.6 cm) hem on top edge of blouse to form
a casing for elastic.
3. On the inside of the blouse, open the casing at the side seam to create a small opening in which to insert the elastic. Draw 25 inches (63.5 cm)* of elastic through entire length of casing, pulling elastic out though
the same opening. Overlap ends (be careful not to twist elastic), and sew the two layers securely. Slipstitch closed the opening of casing.
* If this elastic is too tight, take your chest measurement and subtract 3 inches (7.6 cm). You want this elastic to be snug so that the top will not slip down.
4. Join bias strips for upper ruffle and cut strip so it totals 92 inches (234 cm). Join ends to form a circle. Repeat for lower ruffle.
5. Stitch a narrow hem on one raw edge of each ruffle. With right side of upper (shorter) ruffle against wrong side of lower (longer) ruffle, align the two layers so that the raw edges are even. Stitch together.
6. Bring lower ruffle up and over the upper ruffle so that now the wrong side of the upper (shorter) ruffle is against the right side of the lower (longer) ruffle. Stitch 5/8 inches (1.6 cm) from top as shown, creating a casing. Thread or pin baste the mid-points of the ruffle,
which will be the center front and center back.
7. Make a small opening in one of the joining seams of this casing in which to insert elastic. Draw a 32-1⁄2 inch (86 cm) length of elastic through casing in same manner as above, pulling elastic out though same opening, and sewing ends together. Stitch opening closed.
8. Lay ruffles over top of blouse, right sides up. Pin ruffle casing to blouse, matching center fronts and center backs. Hand sew ruffle casing to blouse for 2-1/4 inches (5.7 cm) on either side of center front and center back, making sure not to catch the ruffle in the stitching.
September 8, 2007
THE SHRUG Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: creativity, fashion design, patternless drafting | [16] Comments
Saks Fifth Avenue features this season’s trendy cover up, the shrug by Vince. The shrug pattern is an ideal project with which to experiment with fashion design for several reasons — it is knitted or sewn
in one piece, there is minimal finishing, it is easy to wear, and relatively quick to make. The Vince version is an angora knit but can be made up in any stretch fabric. Try mohair, stretch velvet, or double knit. Plus, these shrug patterns are easy to adjust. For instance, this basic shrug pattern is relatively snug and feature elbow-length sleeves. If you want to make longer or shorter sleeves or make the back larger, adding or subtracting length is easy. Wear it belted like the model.
SHRUG MEASUREMENTS: SIZE S (M, L)
Cuff-to-cuff: 45 ½ (46 ½, 47 ½)”Width at back: 16 ½ (17 ½, 18 ½)”
Top-to-hem: 21 (22 ½, 24)”
NOTE: The greatest stretch of the knit fabric runs around the girth of the body (usually the crosswise grain from selvedge to selvedge). Most stretch fabrics are available in 60″ widths. You’ll need about 2/3 yds. (65 cm).
Measure a rectangle 21″ by 45½” (length X width) for a size SMALL. (Use the measurements above for MEDIUM or LARGE.)
Measure 14½” in from each short end of the rectangle and mark as A,B,C, & D according to the diagram.
Measure 4½ inches down from the top & up from the bottom of each long end of the rectangle and mark as E, F, G, & H.
Measure 2½ inches down from A, B & up from C, D. Mark as I, J, K & L.
With a ruler, draw a line from E to K, F to I, G to L and H to J.
Blend a gentle arc between AF, BH, CE, & DG.
Cut along these 4 lines.
Fold fabric with right sides together. Pin points E to F, A to C, B to D & G to H.
Sew ½” seam allowances along edges A to F and B to H, leaving an opening between AB & CD to form the “body” portion. Turn right side out.
Turn in raw edges at cuffs and body opening by 1″ and hem. Add a large hook & eye as a closure at waist level.
September 7, 2007
BERET & BELT (part 2) Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessories, creativity, fashion design, patterndrafting, sewing | [4] Comments
The lined beret is sized in small, medium and large with an inside grosgrain ribbon band. Measure your head, placing the tape measure around your forehead and skull. Choose your size by comparing your measurement to the hat measurements below. The beret in the photograph is made up in lightweight woolen fabric; I can suggest choosing a tweed, double knit, velvet, or synthetic suede fabric as well to make it up.
SMALL BERET - 22" (56cm)MEDIUM BERET - 23" (58.5)LARGE BERET - 24" (61 cm)
You will need:
½ yd. (.5 m) of fashion fabric
½ yd. (.5 m) of satin lining
7/8 yd (.8m) of 5/8″ (15 mm) grosgrain ribbon for headband
Matching colour thread
Pattern Pieces Key
1. Upper Section
2. Lower section
Enlarging The Pattern
Each square = 1″ (2.5 cm)
Includes 5/8″ (15 mm) seam allowance.
Enlarge your pattern on 1″ graph paper or a pattern tracing material such as Red Dot TM by HTC.
Pieces 1 and 2 are quarter pieces; for cutting ease, make each of these full pieces.
Cutting
Upper Section – 1 fabric, 1 lining
Lower section – 1 fabric, 1 lining
Ribbon – S – 23″ (58.5 cm)
M – 24″ (61 cm)
L – 25″ (63.5 cm)
Marking
Mark quarter points on the inner edges of lower section and lining.
Make A Beret in 6 Easy Steps
1. With right sides together, pin fabric upper section and lower section together; stitch. Press seams towards lower section, notching where necessary.
2. Topstitch lower section ¼” (6mm) from seam. Trim seam allowance.
3. Construct Lining upper and lower in same manner as Fabric. With wrong sides together and raw edges even, pin the Lining inside the fabric; baste.
4. Lap the ends of the ribbon headband, turning under ½” (13mm) seam allowance. Stitch in place. Using the seam as the center back, divide into quarters and mark.
5. Matching markings, pin the Headband to the Beret lower section, placing the edge along the seamline. Stitch close to the inner edge and again ¼” (6mm) away. Trim the Beret seam allowance close to the second stitching.
6. Turn the Headband to the inside along the seams; press. Tack the Lining at quarter points.
September 7, 2007
BERET & BELT (part 1) Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessories, fashion design, millinery, patterndrafting, sewing | [9] Comments
(Courtesy of Vogue/Butterick)
The wraparound obi style belt is sized in small, medium and large. Choose your size by measuring your waist and comparing your measurement to the chart below.
S M LIN. 24-25 26-28 30-32CM 61-63.5 67-72 76-81
You will need:
3/8 yds (.35 m) of synthetic suede or leather fabric.
Matching polyester thread.
SOBO TM Fabric glue.
Pattern Piece Key
1. Front
2. Sides
3. Tie Ends
4. Tassel
Enlarging the Pattern
Each Square = 1″ (2.5 cm)
Includes ¼” (6mm) seam allowances.
Enlarge your pattern on 1″ graph paper or a pattern tracing material such as Red Dot TM by HTC. Pieces 1 and 3 are given on a fold. For ease of cutting, makes theses full pieces.
Cutting
Front – cut 1
Sides – cut 2
Tie ends – cut 2
Tassels – cut 2
Marking
Use a water-soluble tracing paper and tracing wheel or marking pen. Mark the pleat lines on the wrong side of the belt. Mark the cutting lines for the tassel fringe on the wrong side of each tassel section. Cut along the lines.
Make A Belt In 6 Easy Steps
1. Make tucks on the FRONT section by bringing the lines of small ●’s together: stitch. Turn in ¼” (6mm) on the curved edges; then stitch 1/8″ (3mm) from the edges. Note: These edges may also be glued in place.
2. Turn in ¼” (6mm) on the long edge of the SIDE sections. Stitch 1/8″ (3mm) from these edges. Note: These edges may also be glued in place.
3. With right-sides together, stitch the SIDES to the FRONT. Turn the seam allowances towards the sides; from the right side stitch close to the seam and again 1/8″ (3mm) away.
4. Fold each TIE END into lengthwise thirds by turning in ¼” (6mm) on one long edge; then turning in ¼” (6mm) on the remaining long edge. Note: Glue edges in place.
5. Fold the ends of the SIDE section over the TIE ENDS, lapping ¾” (20mm). Starting on SIDES, stitch securely through all thicknesses close to the raw edge. Pull thread ends to the inside and knot.
6. Place TIE ENDS on the wrong side of TASSEL section. Overlap about ½” (13mm). Apply a bead of fabric glue to the upper edge of the TASSEL. Roll the TASSEL around the TIE END. Let glue dry. If desired, stitch close to the edge and across the top of the tassel to secure.
September 1, 2007
THE FASHION RUANA WRAP Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: accessories, creativity, fashion design, patternless drafting | [15] Comments
This is a very easy ruana to create. Select a wool or cashmere blend fashion fabric where both sides of the fabric look good. You will love the feel and look of this comfortable wrap – make it very warm and soft. Similar ruanas in department stores can cost as much as $100. or more. It measures 36 inches as it hangs from your shoulders to your knees. Each panel in front is 22 inches wide and across the back it is 44 inches in width.
It has a 4 inch (10 cm) fringe at each short edge.
Begin by purchasing 2 yds. (1.85 m) length of loosely woven 54″ (137 cm) wide fashion fabric (plain weaves are best).
Square up the two cut ends of your fabric to create a 72″ rectangle. This can be done by drawing the crosswise yarns across the short ends. Fray each short end about 4″ (10 cm). The frayed edges may be trimmed if necessary. Machine-stitch with matching thread across top of the frayed area. This will create a fringe. (A)
Next step is to fold the fabric along its length so that both selvedge edges align. Measure 32″ (81 cm) from one frayed edge, along the fold and slash to that point. (B)
Cut 4″ (10 cm) from each selvedge edge along its length.
Machine-stitch a narrow double-rolled hem (eg. turn in ¼” then turn ¼” again) along the slashed opening and along each of the selvedge edges. (C)
Voila! …your stylish ruana wrap is ready!
August 25, 2007
THE BOUFFANT SKIRT Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: creativity, fashion design, pattern drafting, sewing | [3] Comments
Volume is one of the fashion directions for Autumn/Winter 2007. The new volume is dramatic, often shocking in its surprise. But most importantly is it does feel new, modern and forward looking however revived or archive raided.
That ‘bubble’ hasn’t burst for the bubble skirt, according to Armani, who made the shape the foundation of his new silhouette for fall. Extra volume in clothing is everywhere. The general silhouette is showing a growing acceptance of fullness in all areas and whatever your physique, the trick to carrying off volume is to avoid choosing a garment that makes the body look over burdened with masses of fabric.
Milan Fashion Week continued to play with the airy volumes that designers here seem set on carrying forward into Fall ‘07. Armani’s bubble silhouettes weren’t full jack-o’-lantern sized, but slimmer, prettier versions, softly draped at the hem and worn with flats for a youthful look. If you wear the bubble skirt make sure the top half has a closer fitting bodice, sleek jacket or knit. If you have good waist but saddle bag thighs, cover the thighs with a cinched waist fuller skirt with hemline interest. Many in the collections featured hemline interest trimmed in velvets, fur, or lace.
THE BOUFFANT SKIRT PATTERN
Drafting Method (overskirt):
1. Square the line A-B-C at right angles (90) on kraft paper.
2. The waist measurement multiplied by 2 divided by 22 multiplied by 7 will equal the radius which is applied from point A to point D.
For example:
The waist measurement
= 66 cm (26”) x 2 = 132 cm (52”)
Divided by 22 = 6 cm (2 1/4”)
Multiplied by 7 = 42 cm (16 ½”)
Therefore D from A = 42 cm (16 ½”)
3. Swing an arc A through D to establish E. This is the waistline.
4. Swing an arc through B for the required skirt length plus 30 cm ( 12”) for blousing. Mark point C. This is the hemline.
5. The skirt is bias-cut with the centerfront grainline established at 45angle at point A. This pattern is cut 2X. NOTE: Use a crisp textured fashion fabric for best results.
6. Reduce the hem via darts which must be evenly spaced as the diagram illustrates, to approximately half its circumference.
7. Prepare the underskirt to the appropriate length. (reduce skirt length by 10 cm (4”) to create the blousing.
8. Stitch seams along B-D and C-E. Gather overskirt at the hem and the waist to fit the underskirt. Set into a waistband.
August 22, 2007
3-in-1 skirt pattern Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: creativity, fashion design, patternless drafting, skirt |
[8] Comments
One pattern – 3 skirts styles…. A-line, flared, or full circle skirt fits a variety of body sizes and shapes. Easy peasy!
You’ll need:
pencil ruler string thumbtack tape measure kraft paper (36″ long X 36″ wide)
Drafting Method:
1. Square a line across the width of the paper and down its length with a ruler to create a 90 degree angle. Label the intersection, X.
2. Measure your waist.3. Select the radius of the skirt style you wish to create based on your body measurements from the chart provided. 4. Tie a length of string to the pencil. Make the length of the string equal to the selected radius. (eg. for an A-line skirt to fit a 29″ waist, make the string 18-1/2″ long)5. Pin the loose end of the string at point X using the thumbtack.6. Extend the string taut with the pencil held steady and upright at 90 degrees and draw an arc from the horizontal line to the vertical line on the paper. This is the waistline.
7. Next, decide how long you wish to have the finished skirt length. Mini, knee length, mid-calf, maxi? Measure on your body from waist to the desired hem length.8. Take a second length of string and attach it to the pencil. Make the string length equal to the radius amount plus the skirt length measurement. Pin the loose end of the string at the X and create a second arc on the paper. This is the hemline.9. Lastly, create a waistband. Fold a piece of paper along its length. Measure along the foldline the full waist measurement plus 1 inch. Make the width 1 inch and mark a line parallel to the foldline and square the short ends.10. Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces. Cut out skirt body. Cut out waistband piece on the fold and open flat.11. Mark grainlines on pattern pieces. The waistband grainline is parallel along the foldline. The skirt grainline is parallel along either straight edge of the pattern.
12. For an A-line skirt – cut 1x; for a flared skirt – cut 2x; for a full circle skirt – cut 4x. Sew each panel along straight edges, leaving a opening for zipper. Cut the waistband 1x, and attach to waistline, allowing for a 1″ lapover extension. (Precautionary note: before stitching waistband to skirt body, try on skirt to determine if waistline needs to be adjusted). Hem with a narrow double-turned hem
fashion, sewing | [83] Comments
Featured: Lex Trip Bag
So this weekend will have you jetting off to the coast for sun & surf? For a weekend excursion you
need a quick trip bag. Forget the luggage (too bulky); you need a versatile tote made specifically to carry all your belongings from wallet to swimtrunks for a quick weekend getaway. Here is a fun choice in a cotton waxcloth outer with leatherette base and trim, perfect for the do-it-yourselfer, similar to the Lex Trip Bag from PROPERTY OF.
Dimensions: approximately 18″ x 8 x 17″ [45cm x 20.5cm x 43cm].
You will need:
6 pop rivets 1 metal slider, 2″ dia [50mm] 2 latch hooks, 1″dia [25mm] 2 d-rings, 1″dia [25mm] 1 square ring, 2″ dia [50mm] 2 dome snap set, 5/8″ dia [15mm] 1 heavy metal zipper, 25″ [64cm] long * 1-2/3 yds. [1.5m] of nylon webbing, 2″ [50mm] wide heavy-duty thread 1 yd. [0.9 m] of upholstery weight fabric, 54″ [137 cm] wide 1/3 yd [0.25 m] of polyurethane leatherette, 39″ [100 cm] wide
PATTERN
1 square = 1 inch [2.5 cm]
CUTTING
Bag – cut 1X on fold
Pocket- cut 2X
Struts – cut 4X
Handles – cut 2X
Handle trim – cut 2X contrast
Bag Bottom – cut 1X contrast
Tab – cut 6X contrast
DESIGN TIP: Use a permanent marker in the leather colour to carefully “dye” the edges of the leather pieces if you get a white edge after cutting it.
ASSEMBLY
1. To make D-ring tabs, wrap tab piece around D-ring and stitch close to d-ring. Open ends of tab flat.
2. To make latch hook tabs, wrap tab piece onto latch hook and stitch close to ring.3. To make Shoulder strap, cut a length of webbing 6″ long and another, 30″ long.
4. On the 6″ piece, wrap one cut end of the webbing with a latch hook tab and X-stitch in place. Secure tab with a pop rivet. On the opposite end, slip a square ring onto webbing and turn end back on itself and X-stitch it closed.
5. On the 30″ piece, wrap one cut end of the webbing with a latch hook tab and X-stitch in place. Secure tab with a pop rivet.
6. Slip a slider on to the webbing. On the opposite end, slip the strap through the square ring on the shorter piece and back on itself through the slider.
7. Stitch across the end of the webbing and secure with a pop rivet.8. On pocket piece, turn the top edge under 2″ and stitch down.9. Apply the top portion of the snap kit to the pocket following manufacturer’s directions.10. Place pocket up-side down at points G,H and stitch bottom edge to body using 1/2″ seam
allowance.11. Fold the pocket upward and mark contact point of snap on body portion.
12. Apply bottom portion of snap kit to the body.13. Turn under long edges of struts 1/2″ and press flat.
14. Place a pair of struts at points A,B,I,J and C,D,K,L on the body portion with pocket sides under the strut pieces.
15. Topstitch struts in place.16. Repeat the above proceduces for the opposite side of the bag.17. Center contrasting bag bottom piece onto bag and overlap strut ends. Topstitch in place.18. On bag straps, turn under 1/2″ on both short ends. Press flat.19. With right sides together, fold the strap piece in half lengthwise and stitch along the
length using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press seam open. Turn strap piece right side out. Press flat. Topstitch perimeter of bag straps.
20. Fold the strap in half lengthwise and center a contrast handle trim along the open side of the strap. Wrap the trim around the “doubled” handle edge. Topstitch in place.
21. Repeat this for the other bag strap.22. Align the ends of each strap level with the top of the pocket and sew an X-stitch to points
A-B and C-D. (Note: ensure you allow for 1/2″ seam allowance at top of bag.)23. With right side together, align and match up the side seams of the bag. Stitch seam using
1/2″ seam allowance. Press seam open.
24. Fold across the bottom, centering the side seam in the middle and stitch across the open end using 1/2″ seam allowance.
25. On the top edge of the bag, position the zipper FACE UP inside the bag on the wrong side of the fabric. Center it. Pin and baste in place. Unzip the zipper.
26. With right side together, sew the pair of zipper plackets together across the short ends using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press seams open. Turn right side out.
27. On one long edge of placket, turn under 1/2″ and press flat.28. With right side of placket to wrong side of body, pin/baste raw edge of placket over the
zipper opening. Stitch around circumference of opening using 1/2″ seam allowance and ensure that you are securing the zipper tape in the seam.
29. Fold over placket face up to right side of bag and align the folded edge with the machine-stitching. Topstitch in place.
30. At top of each side seam, below the placket, center the D-ring tabs and apply with topstitching.
* Design Tip: Purchase the metal toothed zipper in the same metal colour/finish as the metal luggage hardware.
MULTI-POCKET URBAN TOTE
“multi-pocket urban tote”
Smart-looking yet functional in commuter bag designs. An urban carry-all with a variety of pocket compartments for wallet, cellphone and PC notebook makes it the perfect everyday tote. Carry in your hand, on your shoulder or across your chest.
Dimensions: 17″ high / 15″ wide / 2″ deep with a 42″ [1.1 m] adjustable shoulder strap and exterior pockets. [43cm X 38cm X 5 cm]
Construction Method: Turned finish – this method may be recognized by noting the lack of machine-stitching that is visible at points of assembly on the exterior side of the bag. This is possible by placing the material, or parts, face to face, machining and turning right-side out. It is the most commonly used assembly process.
Material Used: 100% Olefin sueded automotive upholstery, 54″ [137 cm] wide; trimmed with PVC leatherette vinyl, 60″ [152 cm] wide.
You will need:
2 D-rings, 1” [25 mm] inner dia. 2 swivel clasps, 2” [50 mm] inner dia. 1 square slider buckle, 2” [50 mm] inner dia. 1 square bracket ring, 2” [50 mm] inner dia. 1 pocket zipper, 10” [26 mm] long 1 closed zipper, 14” [35 mm] long 1 closed zipper, 22” [56 cm] long 2 dome snaps, ½” [12 mm] dia. 12 rivets, ½” [12 mm] dia. 2½ yds. [2.3 m] webbing, 2” [50 mm] wide 1 spool upholstery thread 1.10 yds. [1 m] upholstery fabric, 54” [137 cm] wide ¼ yd. [0.25 m] vinyl leatherette, 60” [152 cm] wide 2 ½ yds. [2.3 m] of single-fold bias tape, ½-inch wide [12 mm] a small remnant of fusible interfacing 1 roll of kraft paper
Design Note: Coordinate metal colour and finishes for the zippers and hardware; do the same for dome snaps and rivets.
PATTERN
This is a simple block design. Plot and cut block layout directly onto the fabric according to the measurements given (seam allowance is NOT included); OR draft onto kraft paper for a permanent hard-copy pattern.
PATTERN
** Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces.
CUTTING
cut body of the bag on straight of grain (or cross-grain for railroaded fabric; for a directional pattern on straight-grain you will need to purchase additional yardage.)
cut one of each pattern piece on straight grain cut 2 strap handles from webbing; each is 20” [51 cm] long. cut 1 short shoulder strap from webbing 15” [38 cm] long. cut 1 long shoulder strap from webbing 33” [84 cm] long. cut 2 rectangles from leatherette; each is 8” [20 cm] long and 3” [7.5 cm] wide. cut 4 tabs from leatherette; each tab is 2” [5 cm] long and 2” [5 cm] wide. cut 2 loops from leatherette; each loop is 4” [10 cm] long and 1” [2.5 cm] wide. cut 1 oblong from leatherette; it is 11” [28 cm] long and 1½” [4 cm] wide.
Design Note: Use an x-acto knife and metal ruler to cut the leatherette neatly.
ASSEMBLY
1. Make up shoulder strap pieces and D-ring loops. Place the bracket ring onto the short webbing strap piece and attach at one end. On the long strap piece, add a slider buckle and attach to one end. Add a swivel clasp at the open end of shoulder strap, then insert strapping through the slider and attach open end to the bracket ring on the shorter strap. Attach the remaining swivel clasp to the short strap section. Set aside.
2. Make exterior pockets. For the wallet, cell phone, and utility pockets, fold and miter lower corners of pocket pieces. Turn under the top edge of the pocket and press flat. Topstitch the top edge of pocket. For pockets with dome snaps, fuse a small piece of interfacing to back of fabric to accept the hardware in its placement position. Turn under
the seam allowance along the sides and bottom of the pockets and press flat around perimeter of pockets. Set aside.
3. For the envelope pocket, outline the zipper opening with stay-stitching and insert zipper. To hide the cut edges of the zipper opening, use the oblong strip cut from the leatherette as a frame around the zipper. Dry-fit the leatherette to the zipper opening and cut out a slot for the zipper and topstitch in place. Next, turn under the seam allowance on all sides of the pocket and press flat. Set aside.
4. For pocket flap, fuse interfacing to back of fabric. With FACE SIDES together, fold flap in half lengthwise and sew up short ends. Grade and trim points; turn right-side-out and press flat. Set aside.
5. For notebook pocket, press under top edge of pocket. Align and center zipper to top edge and topstitch in place. Turn under seam allowance along sides and bottom of pocket and press flat. Turn under seam allowance along perimeter of pocket and press flat. Set aside.
6. For zipper flap, fuse interfacing to back of fabric. With FACE SIDES together, fold flap in half lengthwise and sew up short ends. Grade and trim points; turn right-side-out and press flat. Set aside.
7. Do a Hong Kong finish to neaten all vertical seams of the main body section.8. Following the illustration, place each pocket to its location on the body section while it is
still flat and edgestitch around the pockets. For pockets and flaps with dome snap closures, you will need to attach part of the “set” to the bag body or pocket prior to sewing the pocket in place. Reinforce the fabric at the connection point by fusing a small piece of interfacing to the location to stabilize the fabric for receiving the dome snap. Follow manufacturer’s direction for installation.
9. Add a leatherette pull-tab to the end of the long zipper. With FACE SIDES together, fold the body section in half and insert long zipper to top edge of bag. The zipper will extend beyond the top edge of the bag. (Remember to open zipper before stitching up bag as you will need to turn it right side out.)
10. With FACE sides together, sew the vertical seams and press open. Then, align and match the side of the bag to its bottom. Sew from corner to corner to miter the seam. Bind the raw edge of this seam with bias tape and complete a Hong Kong seam finish. Turn body of the bag right-side out. Set aside.
11. Cut the two strap pieces from the webbing. These will be the bag handles. Measure each handle strap to 20″ [51 cm] long. Center a rectangle of leatherette in the middle of the strap to form a handle and wrap it around the webbing. Fold the webbing widthwise and stitch down. Set aside.
12. With FACE SIDE UP, turn under seam allowance along the top edge of the bag and press flat. Turn under 1” [25mm] to face the bag opening and topstitch in place around the opening.
13. Sew the D-ring loops to each side seam just below the top facing stitching. Add rivets following manufacturer’s directions.
14. Sew 2 leatherette tabs FACE DOWN to the edge of the bag opening (5” [12.5 cm] from the side seams) on the front and back on the bag opening. Sew through the middle of each tab. Place handle straps ends on top of a tab and secure in place. Fold the tab in half to encase the strap end and topstitch around the edge of the tab. Add rivets following manufacturer’s directions.
15. Clip on swivel clasps to D-rings.
