Essential Guide to Sthlm

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    wELCOMEWelcome to Stockholm. Built on 14 islands, the cityo ers a unique mixture o water, green areas and cityli e. In just one day you can stroll along cobblestonedmedieval streets, take a boat trip to the archipelago,and enjoy world-class shopping.

    Known simply as the great department store,Nordiska Kompaniet (or justNK or short) is the hearto the Stockholm shopping scene. But even though wewould like to think thatNK is the reason or your visitto Stockholm, we know you want to see some o the cityas well.

    For this reason, we have assembled this guide. As withthe range o goods on o er atNK, we have selected thevery best or you. Weve chosen our avourite sights,museums, restaurants, ca s and clubs. Here youll ndthe most up-to-the-minute places, as well as unmissableclassics. We hope youll enjoy a truly memorable visitto our wonder ul city.

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    CONTENTS

    The great department store 6The shoppers checklist 8Eat at NK 9Stockholm districts 10City/Norrmalm 12

    Gamla Stan 20stermalm 24Djurgrden 30Sdermalm 34Vasastan 38Excursions close to Stockholm 43Kungsholmen 44Stockholm top ten 48On a rainy day 49Fantastic Swedish ood 50

    Use ul acts 51Service atNK 52Cash re und 53Underground map incl. commuter trains 54My notes 56NK opening hours 58

    KEy TO SyMbOLS

    Restaurant

    Bar

    Ca

    HighlightsOutdoor

    Exclusive

    Trendy

    Friendly or children

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    THE GrEAT DEpArTMENT STOrEIn every big city around the world, theres always onedepartment store that stands head and shoulders abovethe rest. Its the place you tell your riends back homeabout, the place where youll nd all the top brands anda seemingly endless selection o high-quality goods.A place steeped in a tradition o excellence, yet also

    constantly reinventing itsel and as up-to-date on thelatest trends as it was on the day it rst opened.

    In Stockholm that place is Nordiska Kompaniet,a national institution that continues to be the greatdepartment store or Stockholmers. Its the place wherethe Royal Family shops. Its where you go or everything

    rom the latest ashion to traditional Swedish crystalor just to relax with a glass o wine at the ChampagneBar. So wed like to warmly invite you to pay us a visit.

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    THE SHOppErS CHECKLISTYoure about to experience ve foors o the most presti-gious brands rom Sweden and around the world. Maywe suggest you start with the ood hall and the crystaland kitchenware on the lower ground foor, then workyour way up through cosmetics, accessories, and ladiesand mens ashion to the home department. Below youll

    nd a listing o some departments:NK SALUHALL.Our ood hall o ers a tempting selection o organic, locallyproduced goods as well as delicacies rom Sweden and around the world.

    NK GLAS, pOrSLIN & KK.Swedens largest selection o crystal rom Orre orsand Kosta Boda. The per ect place to nd gi ts to take home.

    NK KONfEKTyr.Weve been hand-making chocolates or more than 50 years.No visit to the department store is complete without tasting the amous NK mint.

    NK jUvELSALONG.Experience one o Europes best selection o jewellery andwatches in the jewellery department. Then take a break in our Champagne Bar.

    NK NOrDISKA DESIGNErS AND NK INTErNATIONELLA DESIGNErS.At NK youllnd Nordic labels such as Acne, Hope, Back by Ann-So e Back and Whyred as

    well as international brands like Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwoodand many more.

    pAUL & frIENDS AND SvENSKA DESIGNErS.A handpicked selection o the latestmens ashion, rom Swedish brand Acne to Marc Jacobs.

    NK ENGLISH bOOKSHOp.The place to go or international bestsellers, travelbooks and some Swedish souvenir books.

    EAT AT NK.NK has, quite literally, something or every taste.Throughout the store youll nd everything romtraditional Swedish hot dogs and Italian cappuccinosto American mu ns and Danish smrrebrd (open-

    aced sandwiches).

    bObErGS MATSAL.This Art Nouveau dream o marble and oak panelling isthe per ect place or a quality lunch.

    CAf ENTr.Relax with a co ee or enjoy a salad be ore, during or a ter yourNK shopping spree.

    NK KONDITOrI.A superb patisserie, known or its lunches and divine pastries.The award-winning chocolate is made in-house.

    frANSKA CAfET.Situated in the middle o the store, this is a great spot orlunch or a co ee break.

    bLUEbErry. Here youll nd reshly squeezed orange juice, smoothies, wraps,soup and much more. I youre lucky, one o the hand ul o seats will be ree.

    bArISTA.Espresso, cappuccino and other kinds o Italian co ee, all servedwith Swedish e ciency. Also good or lunch.

    NK SALUHALL.Delicacies rom all over the world. Enjoy a lunch here or takeit with you or a picnic in one o Stockholms many parks.

    NK CHAMpAGNE bAr.Relax in style with a glass o Mot & Chandon or someother ne Champagne.

    NK KOrv & GLASS.Step outside or a classic Swedish hot dog. Just sayKorv med brd sausage with bread and savour it standing up with anice cream or dessert.

    The shoppers checklist Eat at NK

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    STOCKHOLMS DISTrICTSCentral Stockholm is divided into seven areas,each with its own personality. In every area wehave recommended our avourite restaurantsbars, ca s and hot spots (in that order).The symbols in the guide will help you nd theplace that is right or you.

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    CITy/NOrrMALM

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    City/Norrmalm City/Norrmalm 15

    MATHIAS DAHLGrEN Sdra Blasieholmshamnen , 0 7 35 4, www.mathiasdahlgren.com

    The most dazzling new star on Stockholms dining scene has receivedrave reviews rom ood critics everywhere. Located inside the Grand Htel,the interior design and the ood create a distinctly Swedish atmosphere.There are two rooms, both o which are beauti ul: the more ormal Matsalen(Dining Room) and the more casual Matbaren (Food Bar).

    1900 Regeringsgatan , 0 20 0 10, www.r1 00.se

    With sleek interior design inspired by rustic cra ts and a menu eaturingmodern variations on traditional Swedish ood, 1 00 is unmistakablyScandinavian. A ne restaurant in the mid-price range which has alsodistinguished itsel as one o the citys best cocktail bars.

    bErNS Berzelii Park, 0 5 322 22, www.berns.se

    A Stockholm institution since 1 2, Berns has stayed on top by constantlyevolving and adapting to the times. Here theres something or all tastes.I you want to sweat it out on the dance foor, go downstairs. I you want tosip drinks under an open sky, try the veranda. For live music, check out theconcert programme on the website.

    SCANDIC ANGLAIS Humlegrdsgatan 23, 0 517 340 00, www.scandichotels.se

    Located by Stureplan, this is one o the most central hotels in town and

    also a popular a ter-work venue or local o ce workers. On the seventh foor,overlooking the tree-tops o Humlegrden, theres a terrace bar thats anideal place or a glass o Champagne on a warm summer evening.

    vICTOrIA Kungstrdgrden, 0 21 00, www.vickan.nu

    A classic venue that rst opened in 1 4, Vickan has recently had a aceli t.It is a lively setting, serving Swedish and French dishes, and has an excellentview over Kungstrdgrden.

    pONTUSBrunnsgatan 1, 0 545 273 00, www.pontus rithio .com

    Infuenced by London venues like Quaglinos and Asia de Cuba, PontusFrithio has created a spectacular luxury restaurant. Whether visiting theoyster bar, having a business lunch at the sushi bar, dining in the restaurantdownstairs or enjoying drinks in the excellent street-level bar, guests will

    nd the menu as inspiring as the interior design.

    ZINK GrILL Biblioteksgatan 5, 0 11 42 22, www.zinkgrill.se

    Zink Grill is one o the newer additions to the citys restaurant circuit, but thelarge bar that inspired its name dates rom 1 33. It eels like a Parisian bistrotransplanted to Stockholm and is just the spot or a restorative cocktail a ter

    a shopping spree on Biblioteksgatan.

    CADIEr bArSdra Blasieholmshamnen , 0 7 35 5, www.grandhotel.se

    The Cadier Bar in the Grand Htel is one o the citys most sophisticatedwatering holes, with excellent service and a pianist playing most evenings.The beauti ul room is urnished with polished wooden panelling and chairsupholstered in regal purple. Turn up early i you want to grab one o the seatsby the window with a per ect view across the harbour to the Royal Palace.

    CITy/NOrrMALMDowntown Stockholm is home to several cultural institu-tions, including the Royal Opera and the Royal DramaticTheatre, but the area is best known or shopping andentertainment. NK sits at its heart, while restaurants andclubs are clustered around Stureplan. Connecting Norr-malmstorg with Stureplan is Biblioteksgatan, a pedestrian-

    ised street lined with ca s and top-notch shops.

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    City/Norrmalm 17

    CAf OpErAOperahuset, Karl Xll:s torg, 0 7 5 07, www.ca eopera.se

    Ca Opera is housed in the Royal Opera House and is one o Europes mostopulent nightclubs. Royalty and amous athletes, actors and pop stars romaround the world used to congregate here in the 1 0s and many o themstill do. Its most recent addition is Verandan, an all-white cocktail bar with aseparate entrance.

    OpErAKLLArEN/bAKfICKAN/OpErAbArENOperahuset, Karl XII:s torg, 0 7 5 00, www.operakallaren.se

    The 1 th-century Opera House contains some o Stockholms best andmost popular restaurants. The luxurious Operakllaren is the crown jewel,with impeccable service, distinguished guests and excellent classic cuisine.Bak ckan o ers superb Swedish classics or surprisingly reasonableprices. And Operabaren is a beauti ul Art Nouveau room thats ideal ora pre-theatre dinner or weekend lunch.

    vASSA EGGENBirger Jarlsgatan 2 , 0 21 1 , www.vassaeggen.com

    Among the best restaurants in Stockholm and still the best business lunch Vassa Eggen o ers luxury are rom the Mediterranean school with a distinctlyFrench favour. Its close to the business district o Stureplan, so the crowdtends to be heavy on the consultant and investment banker side. I you wantsomething simpler, just cross over Birger Jarlsgatan to Albert & Jacks(Engelbrektsgatan 3), an excellent ca and deli by the same owners.

    HLSINGbOrG Mster Samuelsgatan 0, 0 73 34 20, www.halsingborg.nu

    The back to the roots trend is the idea behind Hlsingborg, where boththe ingredients and the inspiration come rom Skne in the southern part oSweden. The kitchen o ers three di erent set menus with three courses onthree di erent themes sea, arm and orest all with matching wine menus.For a slightly more in ormal dinner or just a glass o bubbly, cross the streetto Champenoise.

    rESTAUrANGENOxtorgsgatan 14, 0 22 0 52, www.restaurangentm.com

    On an anonymous street close to Htorget youll nd one o the best lunchesin town, with one Swedish and one international dish o the day, as well asa small la carte menu. Swi t service, a stylish interior and well-prepared

    ood make this a recommended pit stop in the city centre.

    prINSEN Mster Samuelsgatan 4, 0 11 13 31, www.restaurangprinsen.se

    A truly elegant and inviting Stockholm classic (it dates back to 1 7) that hasdone what it does or decades and keeps on doing it well. This is the placeto come or great Swedish husmanskost traditional home cooking likemeatballs with lingonberries, pickled herring and Bi Rydberg. Prinsen is

    amous as a writers and artists haunt, and the walls are lined with paintingsthat ended up there as payment or the bill.

    frEDSGATAN 1 2 Fredsgatan 12, 0 24 0 52, www. redsgatan12.com

    Run by the Swedish che o che s Melker Andersson, Fredsgatan 12 servesthe best entertainment on a plate in Stockholm. The menu comes in twoparts: Traditional (classic dishes with a twist) and Innovative ( asten yourseatbelts). To match the ood, Fredsgatan 12 has some o the bestsommeliers in Sweden. The restaurant is situated close to the Parliament,and here politicians can be seen mixing with bankers, media tycoons andthe ashion elite. In the summer a younger crowd queues or the outdoorterrace bar beside the restaurant.

    STUrEHOf Stureplan 2, 0 440 57 30, www.stureho .com

    This classic brasserie at the heart o Stureplan o ers a great array o choices.There is a big, bustling dining room where Swedish and French classics areserved, and a number o bars that cater to the young pro essionals who workin this part o town. The outdoor area on Stureplan is the per ect place or along, weekend lunch and some people-watching. Stureho is also one o the

    ew restaurants that stays open or Midsummer when most Stockholmersleave town.

    City/Norrmalm

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    City/Norrmalm City/Norrmalm 1

    NATIONALMUSEUMSdra Blaiseholmshamnen, 0 51 544 10, www.nationalmuseum.se

    This is Stockholms largest art museum and the custodian o much o thenations art heritage. There are also good collections o 17th century Dutch and1 th century French art, and an impressive collection o prints and drawings.Arts and cra ts are also well represented there is a permanent exhibition o20th century Scandinavian design on the rst foor and the museum regularlyshows works by contemporary artists.

    KULTUrHUSET Sergels Torg, 0 50 315 0 , www.kulturhuset.stockholm.se

    With a name like The House o Culture there are expectations to live upto. The big glass- ronted building in the very centre o Stockholm is hometo three art galleries, a library with a large area or children, a hangout

    or young people, a comic book library, an internet ca and also the threestages o Stadsteatern theatre. Much o it is ree, the rest is not expensive.In the same building are two ca s, a bar and a restaurant, as well as an out-door terrace with a view o the black-and-white patterned Sergels Torg plaza.

    SOSTA ESprESSO bArSveavgen 4, 0 12 13 4 , www.sosta.seJakobsbergsgatan 57, 0 11 71 07.

    A small slice o Italy right in the middle o Stockholm, these standing-room-only espresso bars serve some o the best macchiatos, cappuccinos andlattes in Stockholm. Sosta not only o ers excellent co ee, but deliciousItalian pastries as well. On warm days, crowds o riends congregate outsidethe premises to chat over a co ee.

    MODErNA MUSEETSkeppsholmen, 0 51 552 00, www.modernamuseet.se

    The Museum o Modern Art is wor th a visit or both its architecture by Ra aelMoneo and or its impressive co llection. It has more than 5,000 paintings,sculptures and installations, along with over 25,000 watercolours, drawingsand prints rom some o the worlds best-known modern and contemporaryartists. During summer 200 the main exhibition ocuses on the Swedishartist Karin Mamma Andersson. In the museums workshop children can trydi erent techniques and styles under supervison (call the museum or moredetails). There are two ca s and a restaurant serving both lunch and dinnerwith a sunny terrace overlooking Djurgrden and the Vasa Museum. A greatbrunch is served in the restaurant at weekends.

    wETTErLING GALLEryKungstrdgrden 3, 0 10 10 0 , www.wetterlinggallery.com

    Over the road rom NK is a gem o the Stockholm art world, where there isalways something exciting going on. Bjrn Wetterling is known or breakingthe rules o the art world and using the hottest advertising agencies, as well

    as being the rst to pick up new talent, o ten rom America.

    KUNGSTrDGrDEN www.kungstradgarden.se

    In the 15th century, this stately avenue that stretches south rom Hamngatanwas the kings vegetable garden. In the 1 th century it was opened to thepublic and has since become one o Stockholms most popular open spaces.People come here to walk, talk, play chess, or just sit in the sun at one o theca s on its eastern edge.

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    GAMLA STAN

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    environment. Alternatively, to take a culinary journey to Paris, Texas,head next door to Grill Ruby where youll nd Bloody Marys at the barand generous servings o meat-based dishes accompanied by music

    rom Americas Deep South.

    CAf TAbAC Stora Nygatan 4 , 0 10 15 34

    The outdoor dining area o this ca enjoys a rst-rate location lookingout over Kornhamnstorg, a square in the Old Town. In addition to co ees,pastries and an extensive tapas menu, Ca Tabac also sells wines andspirits, making it a good choice or any time o day or night.

    CHAIKHANA Svartmangatan 23, 0 24 45 00, www.chaikhana.se

    The Chaikhana tea salon o ers riendly table service in a charming setting.Enjoy a pot o high quality tea served with English scones or French cakes.Lunch options include delicious salads with a special Japanese tea dressing.

    STOrKyrKANStortorget 1, 0 723 30 00, www.stockholmsdomkyrko orsamling.se

    Stockholms cathedral dates rom the 13th century and is the number oneplace to get married in Stockholm. It houses a large statue o St. George andthe Dragon, which depicts Stockholms valiant patron saint saving a princess

    rom the jaws o a dragon. The statue symbolises a 1471 victory over theattacking Danes.

    wALKING TOUrS THrOUGH GAMLA STAN 0 50 2 5 0 , www.stockholmtown.com

    There is no better way to discover the magic o Stockholms Old Town andsoak up the atmosphere than to walk through the cobbled streets togetherwith a knowledgeable guide. Youll learn how Dominican monks used to walkthe narrow alleyways, see where the amous poet Lasse Lucidor Johanssonwas killed in a tavern brawl in 1 74, and pass one o Stockholms mostclassic artists haunts, the restaurant Den Gyldene Freden. Most tours leave

    rom the Obelisk on Slottsbacken outside the Royal Palace. They areavailable in several languages and cost around SEK 0.

    pONTUS by THE SEA Tullhus 2, Skeppsbrokajen, 0 20 20 5, www.pontus rithio .com

    Located on the edge o the harbour, a short walk rom the bridge that linksGamla Stan to Kungstrdgrden, Pontus by the Sea is a popular Swedish/French bistro. Lunch consists o a hot and cold bu et which can be enjoyedwith a view over the water. In the summer theres plenty o outdoor seating.

    LE rOUGEBrunnsgrnd 24, 0 505 244 30, www.lerouge.se

    With an interior decorated with red velvet and gold, this restaurant providesan opulent setting or a bistro lunch in the mid-price range. The three-coursemenu and la carte options are dominated by French classics that changeweekly.

    LEIjONTOrNET Lilla Nygatan 5, 0 50 400 0, www.leijontornet.se

    This atmospheric, luxury restaurant evokes the history o Stockholm.One table is almost surrounded by the remains o a 14th century city wall.The beauti ully presented ood is made according to organic principles,using seasonal ingredients to create modern gastronomic delights inspiredby traditional Scandinavian cuisine. In 200 Leijontornet was awarded astar in the Michelin Guide.

    bISTrO & GrILL rUbysterlnggatan 14, 0 20 57 7 , 0 20 0 15, www.bistroruby.com

    Bistro Ruby is a local avourite: a well-established restaurant in the mid-pricerange, serving ood with a distinctly French favour in a romantic, candle-lit

    GAMLA STANThe small island o Gamla Stan ( the Old Town) is amust-see or any visitor. Walk through its narrow, cobbledstreets to explore 13th century churches, the NobelMuseum and the massive Royal Palace.

    Gamla Stan Gamla Stan 23

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    STErMALM

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    LISA p TOrGET stermalmstorg 2, 0 553 404 50, www.lisapatorget.se

    This open-air restaurant is known or its sh and sea ood lunches. Located inthe middle o stermalmstorg, its an ideal spot or people-watching whileenjoying a glass o white wine. The name (Lisa on the square) re ers to LisaElmqvist who ounded a amous shmongers and restaurant in the markethall on the other side o the square.

    CAf pAULINybroplan, 0 5 1 43, www.pauli.gastrogate.com

    Climb the stairs o the Royal Dramatic Theatre and make your way to the

    cosy Ca Pauli. Enjoy the magni cent interior over a salad or light Swedishdish. In the summer avoid the crowd at lunchtime and grab a table on theterrace with a view o the boats at Nybroviken. Be sure to bring a new pairo sunglasses.

    brASSErIE bObONNE Storgatan 12, 0 0 03 1 , www.brasseriebobonne.gastrogate.com

    Bobonne translates roughly as the good housekeeper. This intimaterestaurant, with seating or only 40 guests, is open or lunch and dinner. Onweekdays they sell take-away baguettes and ca au lait rom am onwards.The ocus o the menu is classic French brasserie dishes like moulesmarinire and boeu bourguignon.

    pA & CO Riddargatan , 0 11 0 45, www.paco.se

    Throughout the 1 0s, PA & Co was amous or attracting celebrities whowere a little more cultured than the Ca Opera crowd. Its still going strong,and has a deserved reputation or serving excellent ood.

    CIAO CIAO GrANDEStorgatan 11, 0 7 4 20, www.ciaociaogrande.com

    Ciao Ciao is a good quality group o Italian restaurants. Although eachrestaurant has its own pro le, Ciao Ciao Grande represents something oa fagship. The restaurant is open or lunch and dinner, serving pizzas andother Italian dishes that are as grand as the name suggests.

    ESpErANTO Kungstensgatan 2, 0 23 23, www.esperantorestaurant.se

    Esperanto is a world-class dining experience with as its name suggests infuences rom all around the globe. Opt or one o the set menus, which areregularly updated, and the matching wine menu. Certainly its expensive, butworth every krona. Esperanto received a star in the 2007 Guide Michelin.

    GrODAN Grev Turegatan 1 , 0 7 1 00, www.grodan.se

    Grodan, which is Swedish or The Frog, overlooks Grev Turegatan and isparticularly popular in the summer thanks to its outdoor seating which o ersgreat people-watching. The kitchen mixes French and Swedish cuisine, andwhile the restaurant is dominated by people in suits, the bar appeals to a

    younger, hipper crowd. Downstairs, Grodan Cocktail Club is among the bestvenues in Sweden or house, techno and electronica.

    TEATErGrILLEN Nybrogatan 3, 0 545 035 5, www.riche.se/teatergrillen

    This classic Stockholm restaurant opened in 1 . It eatures props inspiredby the nearby Royal Dramatic Theatre and a panoramic painting stretchingaround the walls. It o ers an exclusive yet discreet experience and the ood isin the same league as the interior design.

    STErMALMstermalm is Stockholms most up-market area. BetweenStureplan and stermalmstorg you will nd several o the citys best restaurants and many interesting places andbeauti ul buildings. The classic market hall, stermalms-hallen, is not to be missed. On a sunny day, take a strollalong magni cent Strandvgen or venture into the

    beauti ul Humlegrden park.

    stermalm stermalm 27

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    MOCCO Nybrogatan 1, 0 0 0 , www.mocco.se

    A trendy ca in the heart o posh stermalm. Apart rom a wide choice oco ee we combine Italys passionate relationship with co ee, withScandinavias re ned roasting techniques and American concept thinking ,as they put it themselves Mocco also o ers hot ood or lunch. Do try theirtoasts; the Barcelona is the best.

    STUrEKATTEN Riddargatan 4, 0 11 1 12

    A pleasant and popular ca close to Stureplan. Its three foors o quaint teaand co ee salons are lled with a varied collection o urniture, knick-knacksand carpets rom the turn o the previous century. Sturekatten is amous orits classic semlor buns with whipped cream and almond paste which areeaten in Sweden during Lent.

    MAGASIN 3 Frihamnen, 0 545 0 40, www.magasin3.com

    Tucked away in an old brick warehouse, Magasin 3 is one o Stockholmsleading institutions or contemporary art. With plenty o light and vast,spacious rooms, the gallery can easily accommodate all sizes and shapeso modern artwork. Whether hosting retrospectives or group exhibitions, itshowcases contemporary art on a level that other galleries can only dreamo . Closed June 5 September.

    MILLESGrDENHerserudsvgen 32, Liding, 0 44 75 0, www.millesgarden.se

    Occupying a hill on Liding, an island 30 minutes rom the city centre, theMillesgrden sculpture park is slightly out o the way but well worth the e ort.Carl Milles (1 751 55) was Swedens best-known sculptor and this site, withstunning views over the water, was his home and studio. He laid out the gardenand lled it with original works by himsel and other artists, as well as replicaso many o his amous works that stand elsewhere. He lived here until 1 31.

    pEr LEI

    Artillerigatan 5 , 0 411 3 11, www.perlei.se

    Per Lei means or you in Italian and this small, intimate restaurant onlyseats about 20 guests. The simplicity o the white, minimalist interior ismatched by a menu with a limited set o choices. The ood represents thehigher levels o traditional Florentine cuisine.

    pAUL & NOrbErT Strandvgen , 0 3 1 3, www.paulochnorbert.se

    Reservations are recommended at this restaurant which only has room or30 guests. Located close to the celebrated interior design boutique SvensktTenn, Paul & Norbert is one o the pinnacles o ood and wine in Stockholm.The prices refect the level o luxury on o er at this exclusive venue.

    rICHE Birger Jarlsgatan 4, 0 545 035 0, www.riche.se

    Located hal way between the Royal Dramatic Theatre and Stureplan youllnd Riche, a renowned restaurant and bar thats become something o a

    Stockholm institution. It attracts an a fuent group o patrons and is busymost nights o the week. I you want to be sure o getting in, go early.

    brASSErIE GODOT Grevturegatan 3 , 0 0 0 14, www.godot.se

    Brasserie Godot opened in 2001 with the ambition o creating the best barin Stockholm. On the menu are French brasserie classics with a wide varietyo sea ood, but the jewel in the crown is the large bar. The drinks on o er are

    among the best in the city.

    SATUrNUS CAf Eriksbergsgatan , 0 11 77 00

    Saturnus is a great place or people who enjoy spending a long time chattingover their lattes. The ca is renowned or their version o the bulle, thetraditional Swedish cinnamon bun. Saturnuss truly gigantic buns areunrivalled or taste as well as size. This ca is particularly popular or brunchand lunch on the weekends.

    stermalm stermalm 2

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    DjUrGrDEN

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    LISA p UDDEN Biskopsvgen 7, 0 0 4 75, www.lisapaudden.se

    This restaurant is located on the ar side o Djurgrden but the view, serviceand excellent sh dishes more than make up or the e ort it takes to getthere. Take the tram rom Norrmalmstorg to Waldemarsudde and walk alongthe shore to work up an apetite. The shrimp salad is a classic.

    ULLA wINbLAD Rosendalsvgen , 0 534 701, www.ullawinbladh.se

    This restaurant serves lunch and dinner in traditional Swedish style. Nameda ter the mistress o the 1 th century poet Bellman and dating back to 1 7,

    the restaurants interiors invoke romantic nostalgia.

    fLICKOrNA HELIN & vOLTAIrE /SKNSKA GrUvAN Rosendalsvgen 14, 0 4 51 0

    Sknska Gruvan, a ca with a terrace overlooking the harbour, counts thewell-known Swedish che Lotta Voltaire among its owners. The name derives

    rom an arti cial mine that was one o the key attractions at the StockholmWorld Fair in 1 7.

    SKANSEN 0 442 2 00, www.skansen.se

    One o Stockholms most popular attractions, Skansen combines a zooand an open-air museum to present a complete picture o Swedish culture,history and nature. There are more than 150 historic buildings and animals

    rom all over the country (including reindeer, moose and wol ). A bit less trueto style, but very popular among children, is the Skansenakvariet, a zoo andaquarium with monkeys, crocodiles and a mini rain orest.

    vASAMUSEET Galrvarvsvgen 14, 0 51 54 00, www.vasamuseet.se

    The Vasa was one o the grandest warships ever built in Sweden but sank onher maiden voyage on August 10, 1 2 . She was salvaged in 1 1 and is nowthe biggest and best-preserved ship o its kind in the world. The ship-shapedmuseum is one o Stockholms most striking buildings, and has exhibitionsappealing to all ages.

    rOSENDALS TrDGrDRosendalsterassen 12, 0 545 12 70, www.rosendalstradgard.se

    This large plant nursery has orchards, cutting gardens and glasshouses inwhich guests can enjoy a range o sandwiches, salads and pastries. Its atraditional summertime venue or the locals, who come or lunch or ana ternoon snack and let their children romp around the lawns. Theres alsoan excellent shop selling organic produce. During the winter, the Christmasmarket selling cra ts and ood is worth the walk.

    jOSEfINA Galrvarvsvgen 10, 0 4 10 04, www.jose na.nu

    This little gem is located behind the Nordic Museum and is especiallyattractive during the summer when you can enjoy the com ortable outdoorseating. In addition to the excellent drinks on o er in the elegant bar, Jose nais also a good venue or lunch and dinner. The cuisine mixes classic Swedishingredients with international infuences.

    bL pOrTEN Djurgrdsvgen 4, 0 3 7 5 , www.blaporten.com

    Bl Porten is a avourite place to visit during a Djurgrden stroll. The ca hasa child- riendly atmosphere and, although indoor seating is available, the keyattraction is the sunny yard. For lunch and dinner, the ood tends to be quiteMediterranean, but the Swedish cakes are wonder ully substantial.

    DjUrGrDENUntil the 18th century, Djurgrden was a royal huntingground but today this beauti ul island is a avourite place

    or long summer walks and picnics. In addition to providingcity dwellers with easy access to nature, visitors come toexplore the Vasa Museum, the open-air museum o Skansenand the Grna Lund amusement park.

    Djurgrden Djurgrden 33

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    SDErMALM

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    pET SOUNDS bAr Sknegatan 0, 0 43 2 25, www.petsoundsbar.se

    Pet Sounds is an excellent bar that stands at the core o Sknegatans livelynightli e. Its always jam-packed with a riendly crowd, pleasantly varied interms o age. The ood served in the canteen area is reasonably priced.

    LjUNGGrEN Gtgatan 3 , 0 40 75 5, www.restaurangljunggren.se

    Ljunggren is slightly more plush than your average Sdermalm joint. The barsta approach the mixing o drinks as an art orm and the result is a range ococktails blended rom ruits, berries, spices and spirits that are as pleasantto the eye as they are to the taste buds.

    bISTrO SD Swedenborgsgatan , 0 40 41 11, www.bistrosyd.gastrogate.com

    Stockholm has no shortage o places that are decorated with ultra-modernminimalism but sometimes its a relie to go to somewhere a bit morerelaxed. Bistro Sd is an inviting neighbourhood bistro with a large bar thatserves good quality Continental ood. Unsurprisingly, this Sdermalm gemhas become a Stockholm avourite.

    CHOKLADfAbrIKEN Renstiernas gata 12, 0 40 05 , www.choklad abriken.se

    In this ca , which shares its name with the Swedish title o Roald Dahlsbook about Willy Wonka, the marzipans, tru fes and other treats are hardto resist.

    TvLpALATSET ESprESSO Sankt Paulsgatan 2 , 0 42 20 01

    The entrance looks like a gate leading to an ordinary house but inside is atrue gem o a ca that mixes baroque luxury and modern design. A limitedbut inspired selection o pastries is served with exceptionally good co ee.The clandestine location lends a sense o exclusivity to the place. Per ect

    or a quiet tte-a-tte.

    OCH HIMLEN DrTILL & IMpErIET Gtgatan 7 , 0 0 0 , www.restauranghimlen.se

    Och Himlen Drtill is a bar and restaurant that covers two foors at the topo a skyscraper. Needless to say, the views over the city are spectacular.Reservations are recommended or the restaurant, but i it is ully bookedyou may still be able to enjoy the view rom the bar which is on the top foor.Imperiet is a restaurant-bar by the same team thats located lower down inthe same building.

    STrEET Hornstulls Strand , 0 5 3 50, www.streetinstockholm.se

    Street uses local armers or supplies and the menu changes depending onwhat the season has to o er. Its situated in Hornstull on the eastern edge oSdermalm, a hip area with a bustling street li e.

    GONDOLEN Stadsgrden , 0 41 70 0, www.gondolen.se

    Stockholm is blessed with many restaurants with a view, but this is theplace to book a table to watch the sunset. The restaurant, which is suspendedunder a viewing plat orm, o ers several choices. Theres the main diningroom, serving French and Swedish c lassics; the more relaxed Kitchen, with a

    ocus on traditional Swedish are; the Grill on the terrace during the summer;and the Wine bar at street level. Whatever you do, dont miss the long, narrowcocktail bar. Its a great way to start or end an evening in Stockholm.

    SDErMALMCommonly known as Sder (South), this ormer working-class area is now Stockholms most lively and bohemiandistrict. In addition to a great number o restaurants andpubs, Sder also o ers some remarkable views rom thecli s on its northern shore.

    Sdermalm 37Sdermalm

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    vASASTAN

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    TrANAN Karlbergsvgen 14, 0 527 2 1 00, www.tranan.se

    In premises that ormerly served as a pharmacy, Tranan serves a mixtureo classic and modern dishes at mid-range prices. The popular bar in thebasement is an institution in itsel and Stockholms best DJs can be oundplaying here most nights.

    CLAS p HrNETSurbrunnsgatan 20, 0 1 51 30, www.claespahornet.se

    Wooden foors and panelled ceilings create a special ambience that thesmart crowd who dine at this restaurant clearly appreciate. During summer

    the terrace provides a pleasant setting or a drink be ore dinner. Clas pHrnet also has an excellent lunch menu.

    KHArAZMIDalagatan 44, 0 22 77 50, www.kharazmi.se

    This likeable restaurant located by the beauti ul Vasaparken is a sa e beti you are looking or well-prepared, well-presented and reasonably-pricedPersian dishes. The venue has a nice atmosphere and the service is riendlyand welcoming.

    rEpUbLIKTulegatan 17, 0 545 05 50, www.restaurant-republik.com

    Republik is a con dent newcomer on Stockholms restaurant and bar scene.Candlelight, starched linen tablecloths and burgundy wallpaper all contributeto a snug and inviting atmosphere. The menu mixes French and Swedishdishes and is particularly strong on starters. Behind the bar the service ise cient and highly pro essional.

    HUDIKSvALLSGATANHudiksvallsgatan

    This short, narrow street is home to warehouses and a car repair garage.However, its also rapidly turning into the hottest spot on the Stockholm artscene. It houses several leading contemporary art galleries, many o themin the same building, including Brndstrm & Stene, Nordenhake and NataliaGoldin.

    NON SOLO bAr Odengatan 34, 0 440 20 2, www.nonsolobar.com

    Non Solo Bar con dently asserts that it serves Stockholms best co ee.Everyone agrees that its a delight ul place to come or a genuine Italianespresso and a latte, perhaps accompanied by a delicious pastry or with amore substantial pasta dish at lunchtime. In the summer theres outdoorseating on Odengatan.

    CAff NErO Roslagsgatan 4, 0 22 1 35, www.ca enero.se

    Here you can have your espresso standing at the concrete bar or linger a littlelonger over a bottle o wine. Ca Nero combines a ca , bar and restaurant,so you can decide on the spot whether you eel like a co ee, a Campari or adelicious plate o pasta. Whatever you decide, you will be aced with modestprices and genuine Italian charm.

    GrILL Drottninggatan , 0 31 45 30, www.grill.se

    Grill is part o the same amily as several o the citys best restaurants,including Fredsgatan 12, Kungsholmen and Le Rouge. As the name suggests,the menu is all about ood grilled in various di erent ways: stone-baked,rotsserie, barbecue etc. The extraordinary dcor, which jumbles manydi erent styles, creates an exuberant atmosphere.

    vASASTANThis area contains many quiet residential neighbourhoodsbut there are also excellent places to eat and shop, plusseveral exciting new galleries. It includes the citys mainlibrary, designed by noted Swedish architect GunnarAsplund, a charming park called Vasaparken, andRrstrandsgatan which is known or its variety o ca s

    and restaurants.

    Vasastan Vasastan 41

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    pAUS Rrstrandsgatan 1 , 0 34 44 05, www.restaurangpaus.se

    This popular and reliable restaurant serves high-quality Swedish cuisine inthe upper mid-price range. A slightly more basic bar menu is also available.The drinks on o er are innovative and o a very high standard.

    ArIrANG Luntmakargatan 5, 0 73 32 25, www.arirang.se

    This budget- riendly restaurant has given Stockholm diners a taste orKorean cuisine. Try their crispy and sour bibimbap and other specialitieswhich are served in an intimate, low-key setting.

    MELLqvIST CAffE bArRrstrandsgatan 4, 0 30 23 0

    This tiny hole-in-the-wall ca is busy rom the morning rush hour to closingtime, and is particularly popular every lunch hour as local o ce workers popin to perch at the counter or a ca eine x and maybe a grilled ciabatta. It

    eels like a traditional Italian ca , with rst-class co ee to match.

    XOKO Rrstrandsgatan 15, 0 31 4 7, www.xoko.se

    In addition to high-class pastries and good co ee, Xoko o ers a ve-coursedessert menu including dishes such as liquorice pasta and clams with cornice cream. Many people dine elsewhere and then come here or somethingsweet. The cakes should be good the owner is responsible or the dessertsat the Nobel Banquet. Open rom early in the morning to late at night.

    bONNIErS KONSTHALL Torsgatan 1 , 0 73 42 4 , www.bonnierskonsthall.se

    This sleek, bright gallery is at the head o ce o the Bonnier media group.The exhibitions change requently with a ocus on emerging artists, bothSwedish and international, as well as works by art students. A ca run byRiddarbageriet bakery serves excellent sandwiches, soups and salads.

    Vasastan Excursion close to Stockholm 43

    EXCUrSIONS CLOSE TO STOCKHOLM

    DrOTTNINGHOLMS SLOTTLov, 0 402 2 0

    The impressive and strikingly beauti ul 17th century Drottningholm Palace,on an island in Lake Mlaren to the west o Stockholm, is where the RoyalFamily lives. Modelled on Versailles, the bright and almost cheery palace isquite di erent rom the o cial royal residence in the city centre. Apart romthe palace itsel , there is also the amous Drottningholms Slottsteater (theworlds oldest working theatre), the magni cent rococo palace Kina Slott,

    and the beauti ul French garden behind the palace. Drottningholm can bereached by bus or car, but the most enjoyable way to get here is an hour bysteamboat, which departs regularly rom the quay next to the City Hall.

    SKrGrDENStockholms massive archipelago with its pine-covered islands, many othem uninhabited, extends to the north and south o the city and well into theBaltic Sea. Even islands with summer homes and regular boat service o erpristine natural surroundings and crystal clear water or swimming, all withineasy reach o the city centre. The islands arther out, such as Grinda orSandhamn (two hours by boat), o er the most stunning vistas. The errynetwork covering the archipelago is quite extensive, and detailed in ormationis available rom Vaxholmsbolagets ticket o ce on Strmkajen in ront oGrand Hotel (0 7 5 30).

    fjDErHOLMArNA

    www. jaderholmarna.seThese our islands are only about 20 minutes by boat rom the city centre,and are the closest part o Stockholms archipelago. There are some smallmuseums (one about the history o vodka in Sweden) and cra t shops aswell as an outdoor theatre where plays are put on every summer against abeauti ul backdrop o boats. There are also restaurants, making it easy toeat lunch in a genuine archipelago setting while still making it back to thecity or a ull a ternoon.

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    KUNGSHOLMEN

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    ALLMNNA GALLErIET 925 Kronobergsgatan 37, 0 410 100, www.ag 25.se

    The best-known secret in town. The entrance to AG can be hard to nd: ananonymous door leads to a set o stairs, which ascend to a restaurant and alounge with large leather so as. Come here or excellent French cooking andhang out in the bar, but also enjoy the art, video, poetry and music on o er.

    wIjNjAS OST & vINKLLArE Scheelegatan 3, 0 13 14 20, www.winjas.com

    Housed in a building dating rom 1 4, the cellar at Scheelegatan 3 providesan exclusive venue or wine- and cheese-tasting sessions. It can also bebooked or private parties. This menu includes an impressive selection ocheeses, pats and other delicatessen products rom around the world.

    TErrENOS vINOTEK Scheelegatan 12, 0 53 1 , www.terrenosvinotek.se

    Terrenos Vinotek hosts regular wine tastings organised by the sommeliers,or guests can buy a plastic card that allows them to sample a wide range owines rom an ingenious wine-dispensing machine. Its an excellent way totry many di erent bottles without having to order a ull glass. I yourehungry, theres also an excellent Italian menu with lots o small dishes.

    IL CAff Bergsgatan 17, 0 52 30 04, www.ilca e.se

    Behind a door marked by blinking red lights youll nd this snug ca whichhas the atmosphere o a traditional Italian amily business. Its known or its

    excellent espressos and is the sort o place thats popular with people whowant to work on their laptops while enjoying their co ee.

    vUrMA Polhemsgatan 15, 0 50 3 50, www.vurma.se

    This co eehouse changes its menu on a daily basis, but you can always besure to nd an excellent selection o cold and warm sandwiches. I you havea sweet tooth, there are cinnamon buns and cookies galore. Freshly bakedbread is also available to buy over the counter.

    KUNGSHOLMENFormerly known as a quiet, residential island, Kungsholmenis beginning to come to li e with new restaurants and shops.The best way to explore it is to start at the magni cent CityHall, where the Nobel Banquet is held each year, and thentake a waterside walk along Norr Mlarstrand.

    KUNGSHOLMEN Norr Mlarstrand, Kajplats 4 4, 0 505 244 50, www.kungsholmen.com

    Kungsholmen the restaurant has the same name as the island hassomething or everyone. Lining the walls o the large, modern dining room areseven di erent kitchens. Theres a sushi bar, salad bar, soup bar, grill bar,bread bar, bistro bar and ice cream bar. In addition, the cocktails are excellentand during the summer theres an open-air bar on a foating jetty.

    LUX STOCKHOLM Primusgatan 11 , Lilla Essingen, 0 1 01 0, www.luxstockholm.se

    Sitting on the island o Lilla Essingen, just outside the city centre, Lux hasbuilt an excellent reputation or being one o Stockholms nest modernSwedish restaurants. Order the seasonal menu to see whats new rom akitchen thats constantly evolving. When its warm book a table on the terraceoverlooking the water. Lux has won a lot o praise or its desserts and breadswhich, during the day, can be bought at a beauti ul little shop close to the

    restaurant.

    MSTEr ANDErS Pipersgatan 1, 0 54 20 01, www.masteranders.se

    Established in 1 05, Mster Anders is an always-bustling bistro with a menuthat eatures both French classics (crme brule, steak tartare, escargotsProvenale) and Swedish avourites such as toast Pelle Janzon (thin slices obee llet with red onion and sh roe on brown bread) or a simple plate oherring with cheese.

    Kungsholmen Kungsholmen 47

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    Stockholm top ten On a rainy day 4

    ON A rAINy DAyThe sun doesnt always shine on Stockholm, even i wewish it did. Below is a selection o ways to spend a daywhen it rains.

    EXpErIENCE NK.When Jose Sachs ounded NK in 1 02 he aimed to createa stage or cultural and commercial theatre. This stage is still open, comerain or shine. Check the in ormation desk at the main entrance or eventsand happenings.

    bOAT TOUr THrOUGH THE ArCHIpELAGO.Several companies o er excursions.Contact the tourist in ormation o ce in Sverigehuset (0 50 2 5 00).

    EXpLOrE MODErNA MUSEET.With two museums (devoted to modern art andarchitecture) and a great restaurant that serves lunch and dinner, ModernaMuseet is ideal or a ull day o exploration.

    fIKA.Swedes love to have a ka spending a long, leisurely a ternoon witha riend over a cup o co ee with a pastry on the side. Its the per ect way topass the time when it rains.

    GET CULTUrAL AT KULTUrHUSET.With three art galleries, a comic book library,a regular library with a wide selection o oreign newspapers, an internet ca ,a theatre, and a terrace with a antastic view, the House o Culture hassomething or everyone all day long.

    SEE THE NATUrAL wOrLD AT NATUrHISTOrISKA rIKSMUSEET/COSMONOvA.The enormous Museum o Natural History o ers a number o well-designedexhibitions on everything rom dinosaurs to outer space. Cosmonova isSwedens only IMAX cinema, with movies about the natural world on themassive screen. To get there, take the underground subway to Universitetet.

    TAKE THE wATErS AT STUrEbADET.Inside Sturegallerian youll nd theentrance to Sturebadet (0 545 015 00), which opened its gates in 1 5.Following a re in 1 5, much o the interior has been restored and todaySturebadet excels as a modern spa and tness centre.

    STOCKHOLM TOp TEN1. A late evening walk along Monteliusvgen on the edge o Sdermalm,

    as the sun slowly sets over Stadshuset and the city centre.

    2. Vasamuseet. Scandinavias most visited museum and its easy tosee why. This miraculously preserved 17th century ship and the buildingthat houses it are a world-class experience.

    3. Skansen. A beauti ul, spacious open-air museum that o ers a romanticpicture o rural Sweden rom centuries past.

    4. Abba, o course! A museum dedicated to the Swedish super-group opensin June 200 on the nor thern edge o Sdermalm. Buy your tickets at thein ormation desk on the Ground foor at NK.

    5. Shopping at NK. Well, were proud o what we do, so we couldnt resist.

    6. Oaxen Skrgrdskrog. Probably Swedens most complete diningexperience, located on a tiny island to the south o Stockholm. A bit hardto get to the rich and amous are known to fy in by helicopter but itsmore than worth the e ort.

    7. A swim o Lngholmen. Thanks to a massive puri cation programmein the 1 0s, almost all the water around Stockholm is clean enough ora dip. The small, green island o Lngholmen is one o the most popularplaces.

    8. A walk through the winding, cobbled alleyways and medieval squareso Gamla Stan. The Old Town has been designated a cultural landmark.

    9. Moderna Museet. Visit the museum on Skeppsholmen and appreciatethe buildings design (by Ra ael Moneo), its impressive collection omodern art and its great restaurant.

    10. A boat trip to Sandhamn, a bustling island at the edge o Stockholmsstunning archipelago. It has sandy beaches, beauti ul views and someexcellent places to eat.

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    Service at NK Cash re und 53

    CASH rEfUNDI you live outside the European Union, you are entitledto a re und o up to 17.5% o the value-added tax (sales tax)that is included in the price o your purchases at NK. Justask or a Global Re und Cheque when you shop or morethan 200 kronor. I you are returning home directly romSweden, visit the Global Re und counter at the airport.

    I you are continuing your travels within the EU, thecustoms o cials in the country o your nal departure willprocess your tax re und. You can choose between receivingcash at the nearest Cash Re und O ce, direct credit toyour credit card, or a bank cheque to your home address.For more in ormation about tax- ree shopping, pleaseask the sta at NK. You can also nd use ul in ormationon the Global Re und website: www.globalre und.com

    SHOpIn the store ask or your Global Re und Cheque.

    STAMpShow your purchases, receipts and passport at the border, thenhave your Global Re und Cheque stamped.

    rEfUNDFor an easy and sa e re und show your Global Re und Cheque,passport and credit card at a Cash Re und O ce and ask or an immediatere und on your credit card.

    SErvICE AT NKA world-class department store should be known or itswide range o goods and the quality o its service. NK isno exception. Below youll nd a list o the services that will,we hope, make your visit to NK a pleasant one.

    INfOrMATION DESK.The personnel at the in ormation desk in the oyer wouldbe delighted to answer your questions about tax- ree shopping, shipping

    and payments, among other things.INTErNATIONAL bOOKSTOrE.The bookstore on the third foor sells traveland guide books in di erent languages. Here you can nd in ormation andtravel ideas or both Swedish and international destinations. Theres also awide variety o ction in English.

    MULTILINGUAL pErSONNEL.Because NK serves an international clientele, ourpersonnel speak many oreign languages, English being the primary one. Eachmember o the sta wears a little badge indicating the languages they speak.

    SHIppING.I you wish, we can have your goods shipped to you. I your shippingaddress is outside the European Union, you can deduct the value-added tax(sales tax) at the point o purchase. Ask or a shipping card at the in ormationdesk or sales counters. Freight costs are extra.

    EXCHANGE.Swedens leading oreign-exchange rm has a branch on NKsground foor. When you are shopping Tax Free at NK you can get your re unddirectly rom the exchange o ce. It also o ers oreign currency exchange,travellers cheques, AmEx, Visa, Eurocard, MasterCard and MoneyGram and better rates and lower commissions than the banks.

    pErSONAL SHOppEr.NK also o ers a personal style advice service. This acilityis provided independent o designer brand association and helps customerscultivate their personal style.

    OTHEr SErvICES.NK o ers a number o other services, including a shoemakeron the ground foor, womens and mens tailoring, as well as a dry cleaners onthe second foor. Restrooms and a cloakroom are located on the ourth foor.

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    Underground map

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    My notes My notes 57

    My NOTES

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    NK OpENING HOUrSMonday Friday: 10.00 19.00.(Lower ground foor until 20.00.)

    Saturday: 10.00 18.00. Sunday: 12.00 17.00.(Lower ground foor until 18.00.)

    Sundays during July and August3rd and 10th: 12.00 16.00.(Lower ground foor until 17.00.)

    New opening hours rom August 25th 2008:

    Monday Friday: 10.00 20.00.Saturday: 10.00 18.00.Sunday: 12.00 17.00.(Lower ground foor until 18.00.)

    Please visit www.nk.se or more in ormation.

    This is the edition o 200 200 Essential Guide to Stockholm. Particulars and illustrations in this guide are basedon the in ormation that was available at the time o nal editing (May 200 ). NK disclaims any liability or errors,omissions, or inaccuracies arising in the printing process.

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    NOrDISKA KOMpANIET