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The Destinations

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Dining Out

Capital City

The Globalite Interview

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“My first ever trip to New York opened my eyes to the world. Australian girl in a big city—talk

about a huge change of pace. The creativity, the noise, the lights.”

R H I A N N O N TAY L O R

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Sourcing Tahitian VanillaF R E N C H P O L Y N E S I A

By Mayssam Samaha

Tahitian vanilla is world-renowed for its delicate aroma and floral flavour used in baking and perfume making. The island of Taha’a, dubbed the “vanilla island“, produces about 80% of French Polynesia’s famous vanilla. The air on this tiny South Pacific island is heavy with the sweet aroma creating a natural, vanilla-scented ari freshener that wafts through its lush green forests, majestic hilltops and all the way down to its crystal blue waters.

T A H A ’ A The only way to reach Taha’a is by boat. Upon approaching the tiny tropical island, one would never suspect that such an idyllic place holds the secret to what is arguably the best vanilla in the world. Taha’a belongs to French Polynesia’s Society group of islands and is somehow still wild and secluded compared to its more touristy counterpart of Bora Bora, for example. This flower-shaped island is surrounded by several motus (islands) scattered around its coral reef and enclosing a gorgeous lagoon painted in different shades of blues and greens.

Taha’a’s wet climate and altitude are perfectly suited for growing several crops, the most famous of which is the vanilla orchid, which was introduced to Tahiti in 1848. Several plantations

True Island Getaways

Bali, Tahiti, and Phuket are known around the

world for their beautiful white sand beaches,

incredible surf, and crystal clear waters, but there

is more to each of these island escapes than simply

sun and sand. To experience the true beauty of

a place is to discover something about its food,

culture, shopping, or natural treasures. Three of our

top editors reveal a personal favorite experience in

these stand-out destinations.

are located on the island and can be visited by tourists. Most of these plantations are artisanal, family-owned ones. Shrouded in nets to protect them from birds and insects, each plantation holds several climbing plants wrapped around posts and lined up in perfect rows.

G R O W I N G Vanilla growing is a long and painstaking process that demands an extensive experience and a vigilant human presence. The people of Taha’a have become experts at growing this most delicate spice. It starts with the hand pollination of every flower at just the right time, a 24-hour window before the buds wither and fall. The Tahitian vanilla orchid is a hybrid of the Mexico and Madagascar plants and French Polynesia doesn’t have the required insects to pollinate the plants so this part has been taken over by humans. It then takes about a year of production, from yellow flower to dark brown vanilla bean.

D R Y I N G Most of the meticulous, labour-intensive procedure takes place during the drying process once the beans have been picked. The pods are scattered on a piece of fabric and left to dry in the sun for 2 hours a day. They are then packed and brought inside to be placed in sealed containers. After 2 months of daily sun bathing, each bean is hand massaged individually in order to straighten the pods and “release” the tiny vanilla seeds inside. It takes

3 months for the vanilla beans to be ready for consumption.

S O R T I N G Once dried, the pods are then sorted into 3 separate categories. The larger ones are known as category A and are sold individually while the smaller ones are categorized as B and C and sold by weight. The quality of the vanilla is the same for all 3 categories. For every kilo of dried vanilla pods, or “black gold” as its often referred to, it takes about 3 kilos of fresh vanilla bean and a whole lot of human labor. If you’re a baker or have friends who are, buy some vanilla beans while you’re on Taha’a. They are pricey but much more affordable than what you can find anywhere else.

Exploring Phuket’s First

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Ethical Elephant Sanctuary P H U K E T , T H A I L A N D

By Kate Springer

Overlooking the Andaman Sea, off the southwest coast of Thailand, Phuket island has long been a popular choice for sun seekers. Synonymous with golden beaches, excellent snorkelling and Thai hospitality, the 222-square-mile island offers every style of travel experience, from eco adventure to ultra-luxe hideaway.

Some come for the nonstop nightlife in Patong––the island’s most frequented beach resort town––while others head for romantic destination-worthy resorts like Amanpuri in the northwest corner or Keemala Phuket down on the southeastern edge. But almost all travelers passing through share one thing on their itineraries: elephants. Located in northeastern Phuket, just outside Khao Phra Thaeo National

Where to stay?

Amanpuri is an extraordinary oasis nestled in a coconut grove on a peaceful peninsula.

When to go?

February or March for the best weather and quieter beaches.

Park––the last remaining virgin rainforest on the island––Phuket Elephant Sanctuary is among the most responsible options for those hoping to spend time with these gentle giants.

The 30-acre sanctuary was established by Montri Todtane in 2016 to spearhead the concept of ethical elephant tourism on the island. In Thailand, elephants are often captured and trained to work in the tourism, logging and trekking industries where they can easily suffer severe fatigue and injuries. When an elephant ‘retires’ from the industry, the sanctuary purchases the animal so it can live out its days in peace. A typical half-day experience at the sanctuary begins with the bad news. A short yet insightful documentary details the plight of elephants––the number of wild elephants in Thailand has plummeted from 300,000 at the turn of the 20th century to less than 3,700 today due to habitat destruction and poaching.

Following this eye-opening overview, a guide takes small groups around the grounds where they observe elephants relaxing at leisure. A few older and injured elephants soak in a ‘hydrotherapy’ bath to relieve pressure on their joints, others socialize, play in a pond, or dine on bountiful shrubs.

There are no theatrical rides, baths, ‘trunk hugs’ or rides on the menu. Though such activities might seem

harmless, Todtane says much goes on behind the scenes that travelers may not be aware of.

“In order to be able to work in these camps, elephants need to be tamed first. This taming process is referred to as ‘breaking the spirit’, and often involves horrific abuse for several weeks until the elephant’s will is completely crushed,” says Todtane. “Even beyond this initial crush, many camps continue to use bull hooks and chains to control the elephants. As a general rule of thumb, the less interaction, the more ethical the sanctuary you’re visiting probably is.”

Currently, Phuket Elephant Sanctuary is home to eight elephants. Among them is Geaw Ta, aka “Darling”: At 57 years old, the elderly elephant wanders through the sanctuary at leisure -- a stark contrast to her former life. Before being rescued, Darling worked in the logging industry in southern Thailand, followed by the tourism industry where scars indicate that she endured continual beatings with a mahout (elephant trainer) hook and countless cigarette burns. In addition, a slingshot wound caused blindness in one eye.

There’s no touching or petting allowed at the sanctuary, but guests do have an opportunity to hand-feed these beautiful beasts. At the end of the walkabout, you can pull snacks from a basket full of pineapples, watermelons, bananas, cucumbers and watch as the elephants excitedly scoop up the fruits

with their moist, dexterous trunks. After snack time, the experience winds down with a generous lunch of vegetarian Thai classics that’s so good you’ll line up for seconds.

“Naturally, every visitor wants to see this majestic, beautiful and intelligent animal during their holiday,” says Todtane. “It is important to understand, however, that providing rides, bathing with dozens of tourists or performing in shows is not natural for elephants, and that the best way to learn about Asian elephants is to simply observe them in their natural habitat.”

“Naturally, every visitor wants to see this majestic, beautiful and intelligent animal during their holiday.”

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Best of Bali Shopping B A L I , I N D O N E S I A

By Maria Shollenbarger

Indonesia’s most popular destination is known for its glorious batiks, its gold and silver jewelry, its tile work and ceramics. There’s also a smattering of young local designers doing resort looks we love. By and large the island’s top hotels tend to have some of the best boutiques, but here are a few of our favorite stops.

C L O T H I N G A N D A C C E S S O R I E S Part Stevie Nicks, part Amélie, the designs at this Parisian-inspired boutique trade in just enough of a boho sensibility to work perfectly for a night out here: At Magali Pascal you’ll find peasant blouses, short-shorts and minis, chic shift dresses and soft leather thongs. At Biasa, Indonesia’s best-known fashion label does cool men’s and women’s lines in high-quality cottons and linens. Shapes are modern and architectural, and color combinations are inspired. This is Yohji meets Helmut, with a bit of Nicole Farhi, by way of the rice paddies. We always find our favorite cotton sarongs at Biasa’s Seminyak shop, which also sells a selection of housewares. We first discovered this Italian expat’s amazing silk-sateen batiks at a Thai resort; so we were thrilled to learn she’s Bali-based, and with two Quarzia boutiques, in Seminyak and Ubud. That she also

does a killer line of jewelry, bags, and cotton sarongs was a bonus.

J E W E L R Y True, you can find John Hardy’s elegantly ornate jewelry designs across the island, including at most luxury hotels and in the airport. That’s why you should visit John Hardy Workshop and Showroom in Ubud—a vast bamboo structure filled with cases glittering with his signature serpent and coin designs. If you’re in the market for gold jewelry, Treasures is not to be missed. Artisans from across the island sell their one-of-a-kind contemporary or traditional designs here.

F O R T H E H O M E Bungalow Living, Canggu’s longtime favorite for bright home accessories, has a cute Seminyak satellite now. At both locations, you’ll find batik throws and pillows, ceramics and sarongs, and bags. Look for exceptional pieces at Gaya Ceramic, on the main road into Ubud, where Italians Marcello Massoni and Michaela Foppiani have been making refined, understated porcelain and stoneware for almost two decades. At Kevala, which has shops in Ubud, Seminyak, Nusa Dua (and a great outlet in Sanur), bold designs incorporate naïf-inspired patterns and primary tones.

Traveler Notebook

B A L I

Bali is Indonesia’s most popular destination and it has something for everyone: sybarites and spirituality seekers, adventure buffs and gourmands. But now, it’s who you know that will elevate your experience from the merely luxurious to the potentially life-changing. Whether exploring gilded palaces, rafting down a holy river, cooking a royal megibung feast, or just lying by one of the most photographed hotel pools in the world, the people and places that make the Bali difference are all here.

Where to Stay

The Viceroy Bali, a tropical haven and luxury resort with a focus on wellness, romance and culinary delights.

Bambu Indah: “Radically distinctive” is how this Ubud resort bills itself, and we can’t argue. Part boho-luxury

retreat, part eco statement, it oozes style and originality in equal measure.

What to See & Do

It’s not called The Island of the Gods for nothing. From its holy rivers and active volcanoes to its myriad palaces and temples (or puras—Sanskrit for “walled city”) with their fascinating connected courtyards, each with its own significance, Bali holds a revelatory moment (not to mention a killer Instagram shot) at almost every turn. Most major temples are within striking distance of one of the main towns; and all three volcanoes have paths for hiking with varying degrees of difficulty; take a guide along for good measure.

When to go?

Essentialist recommends the off-season between April-June or September, when rates can be better and beaches quieter.

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Year of Rembrandt, AmsterdamThe Rijksmuseum marks the 350th anniversary of Rembrandt’s death in 2019 with the ‘Year of Rembrandt’. It will be an extraordinary year full with exhibitions and special events, across the city, celebrating the work of one of the world’s greatest artists.

Rosewood, Hong Kong

One of the most anticipated openings in the travel industry for 2019, the Rosewood Hong Kong will officially open its doors in March. This ultra-luxury hotel will have sweeping views of the Victoria Harbour and is ideally located within the Victoria Dockside, a vibrant new art and design district in the city.

V&A Dundee, ScotlandThe V&A Dundee, Scotland’s first design museum, was designed by Japanese architect, Kengo Kuma. The spectacular building has received numerous awards and recognition, including the best public building of 2018 from Wallpaper*. The museum features both temporary and permanent collection exhibitions dedicated to innovative design, design-thinking and a special department dedicated to Scottish design. A destination-worthy cultural experience.

Fern Bar, Sebastopol, California“Fern Bar is the type of spot you want in your own community—amazing design, nuanced cocktails, live music, and addictive food,” says our editor, Jen Murphy. Opened by five partners, one of which is the former bar director at the Michelin-starred Meadowood, in Napa, Fern Bar is setting a new standard in how to pair cocktails and food in an unforgettable experience.

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Photo: Fern Bar

A new Paris café reinvents the Bar AmericainBy Wendell Steavenson

Sometimes Paris can seem so steeped (or stuck) in tradition that it can feel like a pastiche, but recently a new bar has opened that is as fresh and exciting as it is nostalgic. Cravan, in the 16e, looks like cozy old bistro under the curving lintels of a graceful art nouveau building. It still has the horse racing murals and ancient mirrors of its original decor, but behind the bar, Franck Audoux, part of the team at Chateaubriand that started the bistronomy movement, has redesigned cocktails with citrus and bitter tones, and serves a bar-food menu of perfectly executed timeless favorites—egg-salad sandwiches, Caesar salad, steak and eggs. ‘I wanted a new kind of place that could be part French café, part American bar,’ Audoux explained. ‘Basically, I wanted to have a cocktail bar that served breakfast.’

Audoux was inspired by the American bars that flourished in Paris between the wars, when the lost generation downed high balls served by white jacketed bartenders at La Cupole, Le Select and the Ritz. It was the age of jazz, the silver screen, cubism, surrealism, Dada, modernism, short skirts the Charleston dance. ‘The cocktail,’ Audoux explained to me, ‘was part of the new lifestyle.’ So inspired in fact, that he has written a book, French Moderne: Cocktails from the 1920s and 30s, published in

the US this Spring. Reading through contemporary newspapers for his research he discovered the frenzy and fun of the cocktail culture of the time. The big drinks businesses—Cointreau, Dubonnet, Chartreuse—promoted cocktails and their own brands with recipe competitions and celebrities bartenders, known as ‘les shaker-aces’, spent the winter in Paris and went to the resorts Deauville or to Biarritz for the summer season. ‘Everything that you have in the cocktail scene today,’ Audoux says, ‘you had back then.’

Of course there was an inevitable French backlash against the foreign invasion, as the heure du thé became the heure de cocktail. ‘It was the same people who today complain that Americanisms are polluting the French language.’ There was even an effort to Frenchify the cocktail by reverse engineering its origin from ‘coquetel’ a Bordeaux recipe of wine and eau de vie, that purported to be favored by the great Napoleon Bonaparte himself.

Audoux’s creativity and his attention to detail—the fluffy pain de mie for his sandwiches comes from a Japanese baker in the Marais, he serves Le Sunday roast for lunch on the weekend, his cocktail glasses are mismatched, some antique with gold rims—has found a chic and discerning crowd. Just when you thought that Paris was old and tired and resting on its laurels, it turns out that simple quality can revive an old formula, and you can fall in love with cafe society all over again.

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From dawn to dusk, one of the oldest and most dynamic districts in Shanghai never fails to take travelers on a whirlwind of discoveries.

M A R I A N N A C E R I N I is a Hong Kong-based freelance journalist writing about travel, design, fashion and culture at large. In Asia since 2010, her work has been published by CNN Style and CNN Travel, Conde Nast Traveler and Hong Kong Tatler among others.

A S H A N G H A I S T R O L L Shanghai’s old Xuhui district, home to what once was the former French concession, is a pocket of charming history amidst the city’s ever-modernizing urban landscape. Honoring its evocative moniker, the neighborhood exudes the elegance of days past, with tree-lined lanes and graceful European-style architecture, well-kept mansions and manicured leafy parks where locals gather to play Chinese chess and practice tai chi.

The charm of Shanghai’s Former French Concession

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Egg, which serves some of the strongest brew in town, as well as creative all-day breakfast options. Once you’re fueled up and high on caffeine, a visit to the former residences of Zhang Leping, a beloved illustrator and comic artist from the 1920s and 30s, and Soong Ching-ling, the wife of founder of modern China Sun Yat-sen, will offer a glimpse of the concession’s glamorous but complex heydays. Along the way, peddlers of fresh fruits, dumpling makers and vendors touting anything from pork buns to noodles, vegetables and tailoring services beckon passersby both on the main boulevards and in the warren of alleys that often open behind them. Take it all in: this is what this neighborhood is all about. Lunch can be either excellent European fare at all-organic Green & Safe; or contemporary Guizhou cuisine at Oha Eatery, a sleek, tiny restaurant serving small, inventive plates and craft cocktails.

The afternoon can be spent between a traditional Chinese treatment at Subconscious Day Spa and discussing the current state of the arts at Bank (housed, as you might guess, in a former bank), a gallery hosting temporary exhibitions focusing on cutting-edge artists from China and abroad. Alternatively, there’s plenty of shopping to be done at multi-brand concept store Dong Liang, which stocks indie Chinese fashion designers inside an 80-year-old lane house, and Madame Mao’s Dowry, a treasure trove of

Its grandeur is just the start of its appeal. Next to the villas and colonial buildings––and, sometimes, within them––a lively, idiosyncratic blend of fantastic street food and indie boutiques, traditional family-run businesses and sophisticated dining and nightlife makes the former French concession one of the most exciting neighborhoods in Shanghai––and a must for every visitor.

S TA R T Y O U R D AY in Fuxing Park. Established by the French in 1909, it offers a quiet respite from the chaotic streets nearby. Head over early, at sunrise, and you’ll catch a scene of martial art masters, joggers, elderly

ladies dancing to aerobic music and calligraphy painters practicing their strokes with large, mop-like pens and water on the pavement. A Chinese breakfast of jianbing––a crepe-like snack topped with an egg and slathered in a variety of sauces and fresh herbs, often filled with youtiao (fried dough stick) for extra crunch––should be mandatory.

Any street vendor with a line of hungry patrons waiting to be served (and you’ll see many) will be worth the wait, but the best jianbing can be found at Hele Refreshment Stand, a little stall that’s been making the food staple for generations. Many cafes dot the area, from unassuming, tucked-away spots like Café Chez W to hipsters’ favorite

Cultural Revolution inspired art and souvenirs, pop-up fashion and beautiful homeware. You’ll also see plenty of carts filled with porcelains and ceramics on street corners. Don’t dismiss them, as they often hide excellent bargains in the shape of colorful bowls and delicate teapots.

Shanghai’s increasingly refined drink scene is on full display in the former French concession. There’s Boxing Cat Brewery, a stalwart of craft beer in the city – and the country at large – and Bitter, by the same owner of Egg (who also runs sister concept Bird, a wine

bar and bistro, next door) which goes from cheerful café during the day to aperitif specialist at night. Then there’s 1920s-style American whiskey bar Senator Saloon, which whips up some of the best libations in town. Likewise, both speakeasy Speak Low, hidden behind a secret door inside a barber shop, and cocktail lounge Union Trading Company take the art of mixology to new heights.

Among these spirit-forward establishments, plenty of restaurants make perfect pit stops for the evening. The always packed Di Shui Dong, a fiery Hunanese restaurant, is one of them, as is Sichuan Citizen and its potent Basil Drop cocktail, a perfect pairing for the lip-tingling dishes coming out of the kitchen. If you still have some stamina, Shake, a retro chic, 1960s Manhattan-style live music venue is where you’ll want to end the evening or dance until the wee hours of the morning – just as the first jianbing vendors start to set up shop.

“Shanghai’s increasingly refined drink scene is on full display in the former French concession.”M A R I A N N A C E R I N I

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If you want to know something

about hotels, there are few

people more qualified to respond

than photographer, writer

(and Essentialist Globalite),

Rhiannon Taylor. Born and

raised in Melbourne, Australia,

Taylor traveled the world as

a professional photographer,

working with such publications

as Condé Nast, Gourmet

Traveller, and TIME, before

launching IN BED WITH, a

lifestyle site that curates unique

hotels and stays from all around

the world. Pairing her stunning

images, that are at once intimate

and lush, with honest, personal

approach to looking at the hotel

and the experience of staying

there, she has set new standards

in the travel industry. Here,

Taylor talks about her passion

for photography, what defines

‘luxury’ in a hotel, and what

qualities are critical for great

hotel service.

What was your first camera and when did you know photography was something that you wanted to do? When did the travel writing begin for you?

My first camera was actually a Pentax 35mm given to me by my father for my birthday in high school. He knew I was obsessed with photography class and I was so excited that I finally had my own camera! Over the past 18 years or so, the camera gear has evolved but I still have the same instinct, photographically. Writing however came a lot later. My mother is an English teacher and she has a beautiful way with words. I unfortunately did not inherit this skill but when I created IN BE D WITH I needed to accompany my images with words. It took a lot of practice. I find even now, if I don’t write for a month I’m back to square one. I often look at a photograph I’ve taken before writing to inspire me. I’m very much a visual person.

What was the first transformative trip for you and why was it so?

My first ever trip to New York back when I was 21 was hugely transformative. Australian girl in a big city—talk about a huge change of pace. The creativity, the noise, the lights—it opened my eyes to the world. It was definitely the genesis of my journey to where I am today.

What defines a luxury hotel for you?

For me luxury is all about the hotel

“For me luxury is all about the hotel truly understanding its surroundings.”R H I A N N O N TAY L O R

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Can you let us in a little on the process of how you review a hotel? Does it start with photography first?

Being a photographer, I was always drawn to design first in the initial stages of IN BED WITH. But now, hundreds of hotels and many years later, I approach a hotel completely differently. A hotel has to be unique in some way. It could be the food, the linens, the staff, the location—something has to be different. I don’t think there is much space in the market to be “just ok”. I also always look for functionality. Sometimes when a room is over-designed, it becomes uncomfortable to stay in. Powerpoints, USB, TV, light switches, curtains etc., all become an irritation if they’re not easy to use and accessible.

With regards to service, what are two or three qualities that are critical for a hotel to convey?

I love service that is flexible. Whenever I get a response that begins with “it’s our policy” I instantly feel tense, particularly with tiny details. When a hotel has a relaxed, welcoming attitude towards their guests, I think we all feel more on holiday. Life doesn’t have to be difficult. I also love when a hotel makes service feel personalized. When staff know your name, or remember your favorite drink it makes a guest’s experience so much more memorable.

What are a few signature things that can make a good hotel, great?

Besides exquisite service, a great bed is essential. When a hotel invests in its mattress and linen, it shows and really elevates the experience. I’m also really impressed by top tier hotels that are shifting their practices to become more eco friendly by using sustainable products, eliminating plastic and being more aware of their processes from food and beverage right down to housekeeping.

What are some travel essentials that you are never without?

International power adaptors—I’m paranoid about running out of power on my laptop and phone. I also have a pretty strict beauty regime, which keeps me in check throughout different climates and time zones.

truly understanding its surroundings. I love a hotel that pays respect to the destination it’s in—privilege of place is a big thing for me. So if a hotel has considered its design, its menu, its staff and its activities authentically, with it’s destination in mind, then guests feel like they have an immersive experience. Which is what travel is all about.

What is the first thing you like to do when you check into a hotel?

I know this sounds odd but the light switches in the room! Sometimes this is an absolute nightmare so I figure it out as soon as I check in to avoid frustration when I want to go to sleep.

Hotel bars and restaurants have become destinations in themselves for locals as well as tourists. Good food and great cocktails are important, but what, in your mind, makes a hotel bar or restaurant welcoming? Are there one or two that stand out?

I love that hotels are focusing more attention on their bars and restaurants. Complicated menus can often be poorly executed when in a fast paced environment such as a hotel so simplicity is key. I love restaurants that focus on local produce and local flavors for both their food and drink menu. Hotel Esencia in Yucatan, Mexico is a great example of having a restaurant that reflects what’s local—amazing cocktails (mezcal seems to flow freely here, ha!) and unbelievably good Mexican cuisine.

Is there a hotel you love that you could go back to a thousand times?

Grand Hotel Tremezzo in Lake Como, Italy. It is pure heaven. The food is outstanding, the service is impeccable, the views are to die for and the grounds are palatial.

Finally, we have to ask—Where are you staying tonight?

Right now I’m home in Australia, soaking up the summer holidays and sunshine with my family. But I’m off to Africa on Safari very shortly to find some of the best game viewing lodges!

“I love restaurants that focus on local produce and local flavors. ”R H I A N N O N TAY L O R

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