design and visual culture

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EI20_06.indd 6 11/06/10 20:16ei28_abonnement.indd 20 31/05/12 17:18

A lack of direction, a mad rush to include content devoid of meaning, without understanding, without a critical fi lter. Putting together a coherent overall project takes time, which is news to no one. Frequently, the fast pace at which we live makes us forget our initial intentions and wipe out the orientation we had established. And this enterprise – be it social, human or professional in nature – can, as a result, fall apart even implode, because of a lack of detachment.What form should we give to a graphic, publishing, artistic or cultural project? What importance should be given to this or that element? Why is it justifi able to use one choice rather than another? How might we explain its relationship to the parameters that condition it? There are many possible ways to lead a project forward in a meaningful direction. Chance sometimes makes things work out well, but that’s a rare occurrence.The simplicity and speed with which we gain access to information, and to content generally, have increased exponentially with the Internet. And when a piece of information, a work or a subject retain our attention in this excess of proposals, what is it that actually captures us and makes us question ourselves or our certainties? It is the why, how and with what that this item is made.The requirement of the reader, listener or visitor today is precisely that. It is in this context that pauses are recreated, that the time given to the understanding of a creative process increases, and that the choices are appreciated and justifi ed. Some bearings are sketched out and it becomes essential to dissect the links between each element and establish new ones. The participation of the individual is exponential. The brains are ticking along. Phew.Travelling from one festival to another, we aimed to discover fresh research, projects and visual works: the International Poster and Graphic Design Festival, Une Saison graphique (A graphic season) at Le Havre, and the Festival international de mode et de photographie (International Festival of Fashion and Photography) at Villa Noailles. It has been a pleasure to note that high-quality initiatives, installations and exhibitions are being created that are coherent and meaningful in terms of graphic design. We had no doubt about this beforehand but we were reassured nevertheless. The changing of the guard of graphic design is assured.

Caroline Bouige and Isabelle Moisy

EDITORIALMASTHEAD

PLEASE MAKE SENSE

Publisher & Design DirectorMichel Chanaud mchanaud@pyramyd.frEditorial Coordinator Caroline Bouige cbouige@pyramyd.frEditorial CoordinatorIsabelle Moisy imoisy@pyramyd.frEditorial Coordinator UKLiz FarrellyEditorial assistant and CoordinationMaud Schweblin mschweblin@pyramyd.frArtistic DirectorMichel ChanaudJean loup Fusz jeanloup@pyramyd.frGraphic Design Marion Lavedeau mlavedeau@pyramyd.frGraphic and layout design © PYRAMYDContributorsEve Chabanon (intern), Pierre Fresnault-Deruelle, Jean-Baptiste Levée, Sébastien Morlighem, John O’Reilly, Morgan Prudhomme, Romuald Roudier Theron,Robert Urquhart, Michel WlassikoffTranslationLucian Comoy, Paul Jones, John LeeSub EditorPamela HargreavesAdvertisingAnne-Sophie Petroff aspetroff@pyramyd.frSubscriptionsLaurent Robic subscriptions@etapes.comWebSébastien Augereau saugereau@pyramyd.frBenjamin Bonnet bbonnet@pyramyd.frTechnologies and digital mediaJuan Estupinan iphone@etapes.comDigital and Mobile Applications EditorCyril Petroff cpetroff@pyramyd.frEditorial assistant and community managerCharles Loyer cloyer@pyramyd.frMagazine Co-founder / Former Editor Patrick MorinISSN: 1767-47-51© ADAGP Paris 1999 for its members’ worksPrinterDeux-Ponts5, des Condamines38320 Bresson, FranceContact UKcontact@designfl ux.comDesignfl ux Limited c/ o CCFGB Lincoln House, 300 High Holborn London WC1V 7JH UK

design and visual culture

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issue 15 Winter 2009

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means of the pages or images in the present publication, without the publisher’s written consent, is illegal and constitutes a breach of copyright.” (translated from the French Law of 11 March 1957, art. 40 and art. 41, and from the French Criminal Code art. 425) • The magazine cannot accept responsibility for any texts, photographs or illustrations sent to it. • The publisher reserves the right to refuse any insertion that may be contrary to the moral or material interests of the publication. • All trademarks cited in étapes: are registered trademarks, as is the “étapes: ” logo.

n° 28

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n° 28IMAGES & QUICK HITS

P10

P14

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P18

P20

P22

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P27

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BREA SOUDERS

CRAIG REDMAN

MARTA ANTONIAK

JESSICA EATON

P12 INA JANG

P21

NEO NEO

JEAN WIDMER &ALEX DALMAU

HEY STUDIO

THE SHELF COMPANY

Cover: Art Direction & design for the Spring / Summer advertising campaign for Aizone, a luxury department store in the Middle East. Models were body painted in typographic sentences “Forget Regret” “The Time is Now” and “Talk Less Say More”. Printed in newspapers, magazines, and billboards throughout Lebanon. Creative Direction: Stefan Sagmeister. Direction & Art Design: Jessica Walsh. Photography: Henry Hargreaves Body Painting: Anastasia Durasova.Model: Marina Ponomareva /Red Model Management.Hair Stylist: Gregory Alan. Retouching: Lutz & Schmitt.

LES GRAPHIQUANTS

DINA SILANTEVA

DESIGN STUDIOS

LUNAMAURER

P42 BY ROMUALD ROUDIER THÉRON

HVASS& HANNIBAL

Romuald Roudier Theron is an independent exhibition curator and cultural project manager.

BY CAROLINE BOUIGE

BY CAROLINE BOUIGE

P28

P36

Caroline Bouige is a journalist on the editorial staff of étapes: magazine.

Caroline Bouige is a journalist on the editorial staff of étapes: magazine.

STUDIOWILL

P50 BY ISABELLE MOISY

PAM &JENNY

Isabelle Moisy is editorial coordinator of étapes: magazine.

P56

AUDREYCORREGAN

BY ISABELLE MOISY

Isabelle Moisy is editorial coordinator of étapes: magazine.

P64

ANAGRAMA

BY ISABELLE MOISY

Isabelle Moisy is editorial coordinator of étapes: magazine.

P72 BY MORGAN PRUDHOMME

MY NAME ISWENDY

Morgan Prudhomme is a graphicdesign student at the École régionaledes Beaux-Arts, Valence.

EI28_sommairep.indd 8 15/06/12 13:04

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BY PIERREFRESNAULT-DERUELLE

OPINION

WWW.ETAPES.COM/ENGLISH

P140 BOOKS

P135 BYJOHN O’REILLY

John O’Reilly is a freelance journalist and editor/contributor for the British illustration magazine, Varoom.

P130

SPECIAL FEATURE: TYPOGRAPHY

An image analyst now retired from theSorbonne, Fresnault-Deruelle specializes in art, the science of art, aesthetics and cultural mediation.

P116 BYROBERT URQUHART

Robert Urquhart is a journalist, publisher and lecturer in the fields of art, advertising and design.

TYPE INSPACE

P80 BY MICHEL WLASSIKOFF

BY SÉBASTIENMORLIGHEM

Michel Wlassikoff is a historian, researcher and exhibition curator.

GARAMOND

P90Sébastien Morlighem teaches graphic arts and typography at the École supérieure d’Art et de Design, Amiens.

CHAMPFLEURY

2.0

P94 BYJEAN-BAPTISTE LEVÉE

Jean-Baptiste Levée is a font designer and founder member of the Bureau des Affaires Tyographiques.

P122 BYCAROLINE BOUIGE

Caroline Bouige is a journalist on the editorial staff of étapes: magazine.

TYPOGRAPHICINTERVIEWS

JESSICAHISCHE

JEAN-BAPTISTE LEVÉEBRUNO BERNARDPATRICK PALETACHRISTOPHE BADANI

DAMIEN GAUTIERMATTHIEU CORTATJONATHAN PEREZMALOU VERLOMME

ÉMILIE RIGAUDJACK USINELAURENT BOURCELLIER

Headings set in Neutraface and Stagdesigned by Christian Schwartz; text in Oranda by Gerard Unger.

HISMASTER’SVOICE

PLAYTIME

EI28_sommairep.indd 9 15/06/12 13:04

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ei28_darcelp.indd 10 04/06/12 10:06

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Darcel in ParisMember of the Rinzen design collective, the New York-based, Australian artist Craig Redman enjoys putting his avatar Darcel in the colourful universe that reflects his everyday life. This one-eyed character with simplified features and a monocle is the star of an exhibition entitled “And a miserable day to you, too”, at the Parisian concept store, Colette. Specially for the occasion, Redman has created several new series of illustrations attesting to his distinctive slant on artists, designers and other big names from the world of art, culture and fashion. IMwww.darceldisappoints.com / www.colette.fr

ei28_darcelp.indd 11 04/06/12 10:06

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Enigmatic identityThe visual identity of the 27th International Festival of Fashion and Photography, held in Hyères this April, was designed by Ina Jang, one of the photographers shortlisted for last year’s edition. Commissioned by the festival, the Korean photographer’s images of the collections submitted by the ten fashion designers in this year’s contest reveal her playful and poetic approach. Jang herself describes her work as “rigorously physical”, often requiring lengthy sessions of cutting, gluing and pasting all sorts of materials. IMwww.inaphotography.com / www.villanoailles-hyeres.com

Outfit by the Canadian fashion designer Steven Tai, Prix Chloé 2012 © Ina Jang, Festival International de mode et de la photographie à Hyères, 2012

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Outfit by the Canadian fashion designer Steven Tai, Prix Chloé 2012 © Ina Jang, Festival International de mode et de la photographie à Hyères, 2012

Outfit by the Swiss fashion designer Jasmina Barshovi© Ina Jang, Festival International de mode et de la photographie à Hyères, 2012

ei28_jangp.indd 13 04/06/12 10:08

14 :

Exploring colourWinner of the Hyères 2012 International Festival of Fashion and Photography Grand Prize, Jessica Eaton explores the possibilities of manipulating time, space, perception and the additive system of colour. After graduating from the Emily Carr Institute in Vancouver, the Canadian photographer began her in-depth experiments with colour hues, exhibiting her series “Cubes for Albers and LeWitt” in 2011. Each image is constructed on 4 x 5 inch sheet film. The subject is monochromatic, either a set of cubes or grounds painted white, two tones of grey and black. The colour hues are obtained by exposing the film several times to the additive primaries (red, green and blue). The reflective value of the cubes determines the value of the final hue, whereas black is used as a reflective mask, holding potential on the film for other exposures. The end result is impressive: disconcerting works with instant pulling power. IMwww.jessicaeaton.tumblr.com

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© Jessica Eaton, Festival International de mode et de la photographie à Hyères, 2012

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Globetrotting Brea! One of the photographers shortlisted for the 27th International Festival of Fashion and Photography, American-born Brea Souders presents “Sunburn in Naples”, a series in which she explores places in Europe where her ancestors came from or which have influenced her: feelings and desires related to a place or an occurrence (getting sunburnt), a family tradition, or an image (e.g. a postcard). Shifting between bright light and a play of transparency, Brea Souders uses global forms to create a world full of delicacy. IMwww.breasouders.com

© Brea Souders, French Postcard, “Sunburn in Naples” series

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© Brea Souders, Sunburn in Naples, “Sunburn in Naples” series, Italy, 2010

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