q

A

bpereil Cros1--udence of The Eiening Star.PARIS, December 22. 1900.

Oh, how busy I have been this week! Ithas been nothing but rush. Just as I was

rcady to leave for Mme. De Neuilly's placeNxhat do you suppore happened? My tailor!c nt me word that if I Could not be fittedbtflre I left town he would not be able tolet me have my evening cloak for the datehe pr.mtied, so there was nothing for meto do but stay ovtr a couple of days. Theci ak is tll woi h the tllay, however, forit is a b-auty nndsl methling euite out ofthe ordinary. It is a rich crcam brocadewith huaches of ros,s .attle!ed over itssurfaoe; roses which are so cunninglyshaded that they appwar embroidered. Therest is simple enough: no frills or fluffs,just a close-fittiog affair reaching to the Ibottom of my shirt. The fur, which is iRussian sable, gives it the desired rich- fness, and tLis, I must say, is arranged in a C

unique fashion. The collar and under-sleeves are made of it, of course; then awide band goes around the shoulders, form- 3

WRAPS FOR EV

Ang epaulets, and under the arms, giving a Iv

boer efetindtefu/edoninfottovrtebest unn on otebt

band. b

ThethernigtasPau andI wre cm-ngout of the Coede rnc.s.w.

mie a tninIoa. hI astlan lner wit rdishhindacm

Igelets, tapand dertee armsh brilling ara

btan eecits

hink It waved naturally. She was bare-laded but for a spray nf black velvet)ansies with diamond centers which shewrore on the left side.

A Lovely Conbination.As it took some little time to summon

ier'c4rriage, I had an opportunity to ex-imine her evening cloak, which was one ofhe r!rhest I have ever seen. It was madeif robin's egg blue or green-I could not seeviiih In the strong electric light-and itvas oppliqued all over with narrow velvetihhe- foriming str:pes. You will never,u(ss what color the ribbons were unless I

y.u. They weri of a rich wood brown.I'he cimbination of brown and that bluish

enwas artistic beyond words. Deeplonecs of black chantilly over cream"iT11 gave the desired softness. In placeifur on the wide. flaring collar and downhe front was grebe. That it harmonizedw;aniitifully I am not prepared to deny; theliver white and the deep touches of golden)rown and gray were just the colors need-d But what a barbarity-all that mass of>r,asts. with here and there a head to addo the ghastliness! Who says that womenmo longer wear stuffed birds? On the con-rary, you can't take a ten-minute walkmi the boulevard without being convinced>f the uselessness of a crusade against wo-nan's will in this direction.But I am getting off the subject of even-ng cloaks. All the swell ones here haveleep yoke effects which exaggerate verynuch the width of the shoulders. Belowhe yoke and extending well over the up-ler part of the arm there is usually a wideand of fur or a heavy roll of lace. Gro-esque on short persons. you say? No, notr 1 is kept in proportion: but, of course, airl w:ith a stout tigure should never at-empt it. The trouble nowadays is thatil the styles are designed for slender, wil-1wy girls. Barb:jra has had a rather be--ning affair made for her. It is of ve.yustrous pearl gray satin, and it has beenrinkled by some new process which is.In-ogue here. There is a yoke of shirredhiffon and long ends of the same material.nstead of fur she has a trimming of heavytussian lace, and the only touch of color isa the flame-colored lining. which neverails to startle me when I catch a glimpsef it.

The Gorgeousness Hidden.This is a new wrinkle which Barbara'soung friends are adopting. They have

f

E.'ING WEAR.

ery simple frocks, made so that they looko mouselike and demure for anything, andhlen suddenly you cate-h a glimpse of some

alf hidden gorgeousness which takes yourreath away. That Is the simplicity whichosts; but we don't grumble, because we

now the fad will wear away soon, as allcry young girls' fads do.I have just bought one of those new hairraaments made of tortoise shell which areishionable for afternoon wear; mine is atuge bow knot. It is beautifully turned and

with ::c0 color and elabor'ately timmil

Elan laoe. The skirt of the espe is sashel

ieats.. and through the slahiuw shw knib

twisted, but it feels so awkward in my hairthat I am in continual terror lest it shouldfall out and immediately smash in a thou-sand bits. The trouble with those largehair ornaments is that they are all so top-heavy. Speaking of hair, guess what Icaught Barbara doing the other day. The

This style of Empire coat will be worn duringthe late winter and early spring almost to theexclusion ot other styles. It is singularly be-coming to a slender figure, and is comfortable toa degree. The one pictured above is of masticFrench ladies' cloth, having a high collar andstraps finished with iridescent pearl buttons.The hat is of black silk and tulle, dressed withscarlet rs,.

silly child was putting perfume on her hair.Arid now she wonders why it looks so rustyin spots! I gave her a bottle of heliotrope,which is the fashionable perfume here justnow, and taught her how to place a tinydrop behind each ear. It gives the sameeffect as putting it on the heir, and it is anew trick much used by the smart set.

A Characteristic Trait.There is one thing sensible about the

Comtesse de Mirepoix-she doesn't mindbeing seen more than once in the same

dress. This continual desire for a changeis, after all, more characteristic of the par-venu than of the grande dame. I haveseen her at least three times in the sap-phire blue panne incrusted with blackChantilly lace which she wore at the mar-riage of Mile. des Cars with the Vicomted'Espeuilles. This wedding gown was ap-parently made over a lace foundation.Here and there it was slashed to show therich lace, and wherever that was done littleblack velvet straps were crossed over theopening and held in place by tiny buttonsof brilliants. This slashed effect is veryoften seen on the new gowns. If this con-tinues perhaps by and by we shall havecostumes as elaborate as those worn by theTudors.

Black Lace Over Satin.Before Mime. d'Espeuilles left Paris she

bought a waist made of strips of blackChantilly over cream satin. The odd touchwas given by three wired bows made offive different shades of red, from the palestooral to the deepest ox blood. This mixingup of reds is one of the latest things, andalso one of the prettiest. Another exampleof it is the Comtesse de Ganay's new redvelvet gown, which is shaded as beautifullyas if it were a flower. But to return to theD'Espeuilles. Isn't it a shame that we arenot to have them with us this winter? Thevicomte is an attache of the French em-bassy in Vienna, so, of course, they have tolive there for the present.The latest evening hair decorations show

golden roses with jeweled green velvetleaves. - They look charming when worn bya brunette. The more conservative people,however, are discarding gilt entirely, nowthat the commoner folk are wearing it onall occasions. Beautiful and rich embroid-eries are supplanting all the glitteringthings, and we are promised an era of fineneedlework. This is a good thing in moresenses than one, for it will doubtless pro-vide work for countless women who haveseen better days and whose skill in em-broidery is their one great talent.

CATHERINE TALBOT.

OUSE=J

INT'According to tradition and custom, Janu-

ary 6, or Little Christmas, brings to a closethe festivities of the holidays. Society folkwho have clung to their country Liouses aslong as possible prepare to return to town,The young people, home for the Christmasvacation, turn their faces more or lesscheerfully toward their respective halls oflearning. The public schools have openedand the droning voices of childhood ino-claim to passers-by that the fountains oferudition are again unlockad. Now conmesthe housewife's opportunity for a grand"cl'arin' up."The Christmas tree, despoiled of all its

finery and uprooted from the place of hon-or, vanishes from sight, dragging supinelyat the tail of the ashman's cart. The mis-tletoe, its osculatory mission happily ruj-filled, and the holly, its glory departed, dIs-appear from chandelier, pictures and bal-ustrades, leaving a shower of stiff, drleaves in their wake. The broom and dust-pan now spring into active service, and the"housemaid's knee," brought on by en-larged activities, becomes the prevaillagand fashiionable disease.

St. Distaff's day, January 7, used to beconsidered by women of the olden times asthe proper date for them to resume theirwork which the holidays -had interrupted,The long, quiet days after ChrIstmas,though no loriger spent in spinning flax,are quite appropriately ushered In by thisancient "festival of the distaff." This is

ForHURRY-UP COO0INithere wmys9hing to equal

LIEBIG9P BE&F..

ANSWERSA M

atB the season in V good bouse-wives devote mmeb 9. 111en eas-ets. In antletWti demandthe shop windows are new filed with theirannmal tempting dinghw_of snowy tablelinen, hematitched and embroidered bedlinens, an fine towlI say nothing ofall the ornAmental ad to thi buffetand lunch table.

-19For the )uter cofering of beds there are

all sorts of pretty and nove things in whiteand colors. Possibly the handsomest arethose of heavy line mbroldered Inwhite by hand. Some ofl more elaboratehave the whole center embroidered, a broadembroidered t,order OutTred with drawnwork and a wide hem finished with a row ofdrawn work at the hea. On brass bedsthese quilts take the place of the valence,hanging down on all sides. The monogramfrequently appears at sne side of the em-broidered center. The durable Marseillesquilts come both plain WQven and embroid-ered, in white or in colors.The fancy for embroidery also extends to

the finish of sheets and pillow cases."Shams" are still much used, though manyhousekeepers prefer cases, into which thepillows are buttoned. These are large andsquare. They are laid aside at night, how-ever, in favor of smaller pillows with plainercovers. Monograms or Initials for sheetsare two or three inches high and workedin the center just about the hem. For pil-low cases the letters are smaller.Sheets for double beds should be three

yards long before hemming. This allowsfor a three-inch hem at the top, one-halfthe width at the bottom, and leaves thesheet a little more than two and three-quarters yards long after shrinkage inwashing. A sheet *arge enough to tuckunder and stay where it Is put is the onlykind sure to be a comfort to the user. Thethrifty English fashion of covering the endsof comfortables with a width of thin mus-li, or cheese cloth which can be removedand washed whenever soiled is one thatcommends Itself to all housekeepers. Theuntoward tendency of light-colored com-forts to show soiling where they are tuckedunder the neck of the sleeper is in thisway obviated.In purchasing table linen the cream weave

will be found more durable than the whiteor half bleached. While pattern table-cioths are more desirable for "best" thanthose cut from the *eb. the latter will befound much cheaper for everyday use.Cheap, sleezy damask Is never advisable,the loose weave rendering it a poor invest-ment, in point of service. The mediumgr-ades of either Scotch or Irish make willbe found unequaled for satisfactory wear-ing qualities. Before hemming a table-cloth see that it is cut by the pattern. Thethread makes the pattern and if one followsthe pattern it takes less time than pullingthe thread. While hemstitching makes apretty finish, it cannot endure hard usage,and is therefore ir.appropriate for clothsthat have to be frequently laundered. Thebest way to hem everyday linen is toturn andI baste a narrow hem, then foldingthe hem back agai. on the right side ofthe cloth, sew the hem to the cloth by handin an over-ahd-over seam. Then flatten andpress the hem in place. The monogramor initial of the house mistressshould be wrought diagonally in one cornerin white linen or outline silk.A new wrinkle in luncheon cloths is

to have them woven in two tints, yellowand white, pink and white or green andwhite. With gold-banded china the yel-low and white combination is remarkablyeffective. Nothing, howqver, is in bettertaste than the rich, thick, solid linen whichis usually handsomely, decorated by handembroidery of border sprays and a centergarland large enough to surround a vase offlowers or fruit piece. The pure white af-fords a capital background for crystal andsilver as well as fanuy .doUies and prettydishes.

Quantities of doilies are now sold, somany people using them without a table-cloth for breakfast and luncheon or Sundayn'ght tea. Those of heavy linen with solidwhite embroidery are most durable and ex-ceedingly popular. Very effective also arethe Japanese grass linen sets, which comein both white and colored embroidery withJapanese floral designs.In a talk before the New York I'louse-

hold Economic Association, Mrs. S. S. Wool-man gave a number of practical sugges-ti.ns in regard to buying silks. For beauty.durability and warmth, she said, a silk is agood thing to purchase. As for the cost,if it is pure and has been through the requi-seumber of proa W1-ake It whatit should be, It Is wor* more than itsweight In silver. If anT-M thinks theyare getting a good silk fr 50 bents a yardthey will find it almot all cotton. There Isno silk obtainable- at that price but theJapanese. Others, however well. they maylook, hae been treated. Among the manyadulterations used now In the rianufac-ture of silk to give It the required gioss,"scroop" (the crisp rustle) and body, rrethe use of the rough floss silk for the woofwhich soon makes it wear shiny; an artifi-cial silk made of cellulose and treated withchemicals; the introduction of Sea Islandcotton, which looks almost the same assilk, but will not wear as long, and the useof mercerized cotton which gives trans-parent effect, and is excellent as cotton,but not as silk. Pressing is also resorted toin some brands of silk which increases theweight at the sacrifice of strength. Stillanother adulteration is in the weighting ofsilk by metallic salts placed in the dyevats. This makes the silk 400 ner centheavier, but injures Its wearing quality.Among the tests given for determining

what one is~ buying in @ilk are, first, themicroscope. Pure silk should give the ap-pearance~ or fine, smooth tubes. Second,by burning. Pure silk burns slowly, witha slight odor. Cotton flares up quickly,and wool has a decided odor. Again, taste.If a silk has been weighted by metallicsalts, it can be tasted. Last, and most cer-tain, the price. If a silk is 50 cents a yard,you know enough about it. Black silk at$1 or $1.25 a yard is strong looking, butv.ill not give satisfaction. Avoid crackly,stiff silk, with heavy cords at inexpensiveprices.

Pure silk is twice as strong as hemp andthree times as strong as flax. It is equal tostrong wire of the same dimensions. It isgood for underclothing because it absorbswater readily. therefore keeps the bodydry, and Is not a good conductor of heat.

Leather chairs can be cleansed with hottailk. Then polish with beeswax and tur-pentine melted to the consistency of thincream.

White stains on furniture may be removedby hot milk and turpentine, oil and turpen-tine. or even aerosene.

A new departure at a Boston cooking

school Is the substitution of a piece ofheavy sail cloth for the old-time moldingboard. This contrivance, known to the pu-pils as the "magic cloth,"~ is about a -yardand a half square, and may be laid flatupon any table. A strip of thick, seamlesswhite webbing is also slipped over t;he roll-ing pin, and both pin and cloth are rubbedwell with flour. Those who have tried it

give unqualified approval to the Invention,declaring that the cloth holds all the flourneeded to keep moist dough from stickingLo It, while it prevents the rubbing intothe paste of any supergiuous flour.

A delicious winter~Ssett, and an eco-

nomical one, withal, tilf steamed pud-ling, for which the el 'er iistress of Ken-llworth ranch is justly fned. No guestever tries this excelYent ding withoutfollowing the precedent of Oliver Twist andcalling for more. ltV ingsrodlents are two

cupfuls of light chaged a bread, one-halfcupful chopped suet, takcing care to free itfrom all strings; ond-lialf cup molasses,one egg, one cupful hiin, seeded or theseedless; one cupful sweet milk, with one-half teaspoonful sode~jdissolved in it, one-half teaspoonful powjleredjeloves, one tea-spoonful cinnamon and a pinch each ofmace and usalt. MI,kj~ ghly and hiltwo hours in a, tin dish. Eat withtoamy sauce. ,

Foamy sauce may e-.Re with boiling

milk, wine, fruit jul- ~p. A goAd rulecalls for a half cgp at tter' beaten toa cream with one c of powdered sugar.Aild one teaapodnfnl of vanilla, two Lable.-spoonfuls of currant jelly or grape juice,one-half cup of boiling water, and, lastly,the white of an egg well beaten. Whip alltogether until -foamy and serve.

A good sandwich for acold winter's even-ing is made by cosmbining ham and. Ber-muda onions with rye or whole wheat Imradase a foundation, -Slie .th eu4 0'nly,

~~Igity,lyayNin h4 alaf pinir

The nbov- is a cbarmitng visiting gown of paslines of ur and a new Italian braid of woven ailof silver.

GOLDEN SLIPPERS

BUT ONLY FOR SMALL FEET, RE-

MEMBER.

Luxurious Foot Coverings for the

Carriage and

House.

Written for The Evening Star.Gilt slippers twinkle on ball room floors,

but only the very dainty footed shouldwear them, for an amply planned pair ofextremities, incased in gilded kid, gain inbulk and breadth. A refuge, and a worthyone, for those whose shoe number runs

beyond three, is the black satin or silkslipper scintillating with tiny gold stars,and with these can be worn very captivat-ing hose of black slik worked in goldthreads up the instep. To even the ordi-nary black French kid or satin dancingshoe a high gold heel is given and theluxurious rose or blue quilted satin b4droom pantouffe is decorated with bullionfringe about the top.Another excuse for garnishing a slippef

with gold is that of running a gold braidabout the top of the delicate foot cover-

(ti *.*.*

New Year House Shoes.

ng and tying it over the instep in a bowith tasseled ends. Very tapering of toend lofty of heel are all the new eveninghoes. For the nonce women have givenp the use of delicate suede and patenteather ties and are finding novelty andatisfaction in slippers that are intricatelytrapped over the instep. The straps runp from a point low upon the toe and af-ord glimpses of the delicate openworkednd embroidered hose. Properly shaped.he straps fulfill the double office ol' givinghe foot an appearance of dainty slender-ess and of holding the slippers close abouthemember it covers.Pretty enough are the rose, white, greenand black ooze skin slippers, stitched witbold threads in a series of lines converg-ing at the toe, or in a scroll pattern ofingled gold and silver lines.In Pais we hear, on the best authority,hat mouse gray suede, satin, velvet slip-pers are esteemed above all others, so thatery, very smart women are wearing 'ex-usite little slippers made of finely curedole and rat akin. The gray shod foot isonsidered far more harmonious with cos-umes of any and -every color than theblack or tan shoe, and many of these molend rat skin slippers are finished over thentep with the head or complete body of"wee bit mousie," whose eyes are dia-

nonde. Gray silk hose that have the newatin finish aecompany the quaint suppers.gainst -which some women conceive a violent aversion, though the majority find apiuant pleasute in wearing on their toes

he stuffed presentiment ofthe little bee.-ie who. in .tle eudmake theirboed ru o014 and tesfet run fait

el blue satin-finished c1tb, trimmed with narrowrer and white. The hat is of white, with dashes

HOW WOMEN SPOIL VISION.

Their Veils Are Sight Traps. and SomeAre Worse Than Others.

From the London Mail.Women are divided in their opinions upon

the subject of the veil. but where you willfind one to maintain that such in adorn-ment fades the complexion you will find-tento aver that no penalties would preventthem from wearing the adornment.Go and ask an ocul!st his opinion, and

what he has to say on the topic Is to piumpcondemnation upon every veil that is worn.Yet he will admit that. while som2 iets are

extremely dangerous and Ieleterious to theeyes, others are almost uninj'irious.There are fashions in nets and gauzes,

and many are the variations wah which theveil Is worn. But in England It always cov-ers the eyes, and it Is here that the dangerarises.Of all the veils ever tried the ideal one is

yet to be discovered. Some w(.men cantrace step by step Its evolution throughoutthe century. They have heard their grand-motheLs talk about the white lace "fall"that used to be liked, and themselves canrecollect the thick green, Ilue, Zray, whiteand green gauze horrors worn to protectthe complexion from tan. Those veils werefollowed by thinner silk ones, which in theirturn were deposed in favor of t.ose ofthread lace, after which came the manyabominations still exploited, to wit: mesh-nets dotted and patterned in various ways.Just now women are beginning to shorten

nets and falls considerably. Indeed, inParis they are wearing most curtailed cnesagain, and a feeling has -iso come in therefor the utter banishment of the veil. Amore uncomfortable and Imbecile affair forafternoon teas than the mask the chin veilIs cannot be imagined.

It is a sign of grace, perhaps, that thequestion which is being much debated nowamong smart people Is whether the veildoes not accomplish so mu'h harm to thevisual organs as to outweigh all other con-siderations in its favor. They wonder If aveil could not be contrivad that would leavethe eyes uncovered, while it beautified andprotected the rest of the face. As a pat-tern nothing could be better than the Turk-ish woman's yashmak, which is justlyheld to be the most modest face coveringIn existence.Now, as to good and bad patterns of veils,

considered not from the point of view ofbeau ty, but of visual expediency.The very best is a veil as fine as gersa-

mer, which can be most becoming, too. tIt has no spots at all apo,n it, and so doesnot worry the poor, tortured eyes that haveto dodge spots- or vainly and unconsciouslytry to focus them, one of the worst possibleexercises to which weak or imperfectsight can be put. The retrograde step istaken by Russian net veiling, which neednot, however, be very trying If the mesh befine, for it Is unspotted.Then come the quite condemne-i veils,

which have chenille spots all cver thema:they are bad in proportion as their dots areclose and large or scanty and small; but Cthey are less sight-wearing tha'a a ve-il thatis patterned as well as dotted, a veritableagony to sensitive sight. White veils are Ioften much more evil in their effects thanblack, for the material, be It tulle or net,possesses a faculty for dazzling the visionand making everythilig seen through itwavering and ill-defined. Fin.ally, has notthe case been proved that those who areconscious of strain, a lack of clarity ofsight, or weariness after wearing aveil, .should give up the tasd of look-ing smart at the expense of vis!on. Eventhe strong argument in favor of vels of asensible and clear mesh, which the oculistsdo not attempt to deny, namely, that suchnets do keel) the eyes from the assaults ofgrit, especially during a drive or whilecycling and motoring, should not appaeal tothe weak-sighted.

Ready-Made Dress Ornament.There is very little difficulty in the orna-

mentation of a bodice or a skirt nowadays,as suitable decorationis of lace or silk pas-sementerie can be purchased ready for at-tachment to match any kind of ma.terialand in almost any color, and innumerableIdeas as to their arrangement can be ob-tained from the leading fashion journals.

GOLD MEDAL, PARIS, 1900

Breakfast i

Always uniform inquality, aniaotyTpme, dMn andautritiou'

- ereantiStnd

ORIGIN OF

PANCAKES ON SHROVE

TUESDAY.

When the Danes conquered Eng-land and reached the villages aroundSherwood Forest, all the Saxon men

ran off into the forest and the Danestook the Saxon women to keephouse for them.

This happened just before Lent,and the Saxon women, encouragedby their fugitive lords, resolved to

massacre their Danish masters on

Ash WVednesday.

Every woman who agreed to dothis was to bake pancakes for theirmeal on Shrove Tuesday. This was

done as a sort of a pledge, and thatthe massacre of the Danes did take

place on Ash Wednesday is a his-torical fact.

It was a much greater undertak-

ng to fry pancakes in those days:han it is now; for with the H-0o.'s "ready to use" packages ofBuckwheat and Pancake Flours at

very grocery store it is as easy as

>oiling water. Pancakes were never

iked so well until the introduction of[he H-0 Co.'s Pancake Flours.

r

'he H-0 Co.'s productsave lessened

lie toilsome duties

f cooking more

[ian any other foods.

Vhatever you want in

ereals,

e it

Buckwheat Flour,

Pancake Flour,

Oatmeal,

Farina,

Tapioca,

- Cornmeal,

Cornstarch,

Tea Biscuit Flour,

Corn Bread Flour,

Rolled WVheat,Hlominy,

Entire Wheat Flour

or even Maple Syrup,can be-bought

~ready to iuse"

ade by

eH-O Company--fiers of

17-0,