Expat Living Singapore's editor Katie Roberts highlights Kamu Lodge an "excellent option for families seeking some adventure" in this month issue, June 2013

7/28/2019 Expat Living Singapore's editor Katie Roberts highlights Kamu Lodge an "excellent option for families seeking som

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The Referral Guide for SINGAPORE June 2013

THE INSIDESCOOP ON

SPAS

NASSIM ROADNASSIM ROAD& BAYSHORE& BAYSHOREthouse SplendourPenthouse Splendour

Cruise VietnamLaos with KidsLaos with Kids

Need a Facelift?

ALFRESCOFURNITURE

WEDDINGGUESTSTYLEPERFECTPICNICS

SummerTimeSummer

Time

21 REVIEWS FOR YOU21 REVIEWS FOR YOUPRESCHOOLS

5 COOL NEW BARS

Cycling in JavaBangkok by RiverBangkok by River

ReadersReaders Recipes +Recipes +

O td D

TALK TO AN EXPERTTALK TO AN EXPERT


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By Katie Roberts

Captivating and photogenic, Luang Prabang has much to

offer families, wholl find their pulses unconsciously slowing

down to match the relaxed local rhythm.

Since re-opening its borders to tourists in 1989, Laos

has remained one of Asias best-kept secrets. While

the backpacker set largely descends on Vang Vieng,

tourists in the know stay in the mountainous northern

city of Luang Prabang. Coupled with a Unesco heritage listing

that has preserved both Lao and French colonial buildings,

theres abundant natural beauty, culture, fantastic shopping,

chic accommodation and fabulous food. This is one city to

put on your bucket list.

BEST KEPT SECRETSerene sightsSa-bai-dee is a handy word to remember when out and about in

Laos. It means hello, and, when said with a smile and lots of eye

contact, guarantees a warm welcome. Laotians are some of the

worlds friendliest and most hospitable people and while English

is not widely spoken, their warmth is obvious. With sa-bai-dee

practised, our family of four, including a seven-year-old and a

nine-year-old, set about exploring what Luang Prabang, or LP, has

to offer.

Asias


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If you like to get your bearings in a new

place, climb up the 100-metre Phu Si for the

spectacular view of the city and surrounding

limestone hills at sunrise or sunset. Of the 30 or

so temples in LP, the most spectacular is Wat

Xien Tong. Built in the 1500s, its decorated

with colourful mosaics and opulently painted

interiors. Also worth a look is the Ho Kham;

formerly the Royal Palace, it was converted

into a museum after the royal family was exiledin the 1970s.

On the recommendation of local people and

numerous guidebooks, we hired a driver for the

45-minute trip to Kuang Si waterfall. True to the

hype, it is spectacular for its eerily blue water

and the seeming endlessness of its cascading

falls and ponds. Despite the brisk temperature

we had a quick swim, after a sweaty hike to the

top of the mountain beyond the highest falls.

The waterfall is located in a pretty, forested park

with a caf, changing facilities and an enclosure

for endangered sun bears.


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Cycling adventureWhile most hotels and guesthouses lend bikes to tootle about

town, a cycling tour on a decent bike with a local guide (ourswent by the unlikely name of Bruce) is definitely the best way

to experience Laos. Families are welcomed and helmets,

kids bikes and tag-along bikes are supplied. Grasshopper

Adventures half-day Pedalling The Prabang ride (US$49 per

person) started at 7.30am, exploring the back lanes of the

city before heading out of town. It includes stops at Wat Xien

Tong temple, at the bustling morning markets, and for bitter

local coffee that may put hairs on your chest.

Bridges are few and far between, so crossing the muddy

Mekong to explore the other side meant piling our bikes onto a

longboat. On the opposite bank, quiet, dusty roads led to small

cottage industries where artisans were hard at work: making

paper by hand, distilling Lao-Lao whisky from sticky rice, firing

pots in a wood-fuelled kiln three metres below ground, and

weaving stunning silks and cottons on traditional looms. The

20km ride finished at about 2pm with a delicious meal of laab

salad and Beerlaobeer, and the kids were chuffed with their

French fries! grasshopperadventures.com

Too much love?

Much has been written about

tak bat, the Buddhist tradition

in which monks, aged from four

to over 60, collect food or alms

from tourists and locals alike. Its

a photogenic sight as the saffron

robes stand out brilliantly in the

grey, misty dawn.

Unfortunately, the morning we

chose to watch coincided with

Chinese New Year, and we were just a handful of possibly

a thousand tourists overwhelming the 400 monks. It was

a dishonourable spectacle, as the majority of onlookers

chose not to observe some basic rules: only give if it means

something to you; keep a respectful distance; be silent; donot make eye contact or talk to the monks. Perhaps its

more restrained outside peak season, but we came away

wondering how long this ancient tradition can continue as

tourist numbers rise.


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Sweet dreamsOne of the newest offerings in town, the Kiridara Hotel rises

grandly up a wooded hill outside LPs compact town centre.

But theres no need to worry about isolation; the hotel buggy

is available at any time for the quick, five-minute trip to the

main street.

The 24-room boutique property has dramatic sweeping

roofs, which we easily picked out from the air on our descent

to the airport. Its spacious rooms have wooden floors, Laotian

textile furnishings, DVD players and walk-in shower rooms,

and open onto either a patio or a private grassed area with

stunning views of the town and surrounding hillsides.

Buffet breakfast can be had on the deck beside the

14-metre pool, as can dinner, and, importantly, happy hourdrinks. In fact, its the perfect spot to spend an entire day, if

only there wasnt so much sightseeing to do! Whilst LP itself

offers many dining choices, its advisable to have dinner at

the hotels excellent Phu Doi restaurant at least once. The

weather was perfect every minute of our three-night stay,

and one evening the four of us dined outdoors in the clean,

humidity-free air. The five-course Lao meal, courtesy of the

talented Filipino chef, was scrumptiously delicious andcame

with a great international selection of wines at very reasonable

prices (especially compared to Singapore restaurants).

Whats a holiday without a touch of indulgence and a visit

to the in-house spa? It has the usual spa treatments, but

the traditional Laotian steam experience caught my eye.

Eucalyptus- and lemongrass-scented steam is piped into the

small, timber-lined room from water heated by a wood fire,

somewhere below. At 40 degrees Celsius its on the edge

of my comfort zone, but the smoky herbal scent cleared the

sinuses and strangely relaxed fatigued muscles.

Photo by Kiridara

Photo by Kiridara


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Bargain-huntingSisavangvong Road is a shoppers and foodies paradise.

Around 5.30pm, the sprawling Night Market takes over andvendors sell silver, paper lanterns, souvenirs, paintings, curios

and quilts at excellent prices, with only gentle bargaining

needed. Originally established by the Hmong tribe, it has

expanded to include handicrafts from the Tai Lao, Tai Dam,

Akha and other tribes.

Woven textiles are one of the traditional artisanal highlights of

the province. However, its difficult to know what is authentic and

what is trucked in from factories across the border. For quality

products, try Ock Pop Tock (ockpoptok.com), which empowers

women by training them and supporting their traditional skills.

It has two stores in town and runs daily dyeing and weaving

classes at a picturesque craft centre by the river.

Childrens books, translated into Lao, can be purchased

at Big Brother Mouse (bigbrothermouse.com). If you areheading upriver or further afield, you can donate them to a

local school; otherwise, you can sponsor a book party.

Another unusual market stall sells unexploded ordnance

(UXO), a legacy of the conflict in the 60s and 70s which saw

widespread carpet bombing of the country. Enterprising

villagers have cleverly reworked the aluminium of discarded

weapons into bracelets, cutlery and quirky souvenirs. Theres

a UXO visitor information centre in town, too.

Aside from the market, numerous shops sell gorgeous

jewellery, clothing, antiques and art. Leaving without buying at

least one Buddha statue, monk picture or piece of embroidery

is nigh on impossible.


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by solar power and the village is largely self-sufficient. When you stay at Kamu Lodge,

all meals, activities and rustic accommodation in spacious canvas tents with ensuite

bathrooms are included.

Most tourists only stay one night, arriving in time for lunch and leaving after breakfast

the following day. We were glad wed chosen to linger for two nights, to explore the

surrounding hills and the riverbank. This also gave us time for a memorably vigorousmassage on beds set under a thatched roof by the Mekong.

After dinner on our final evening, while gazing at billions of stars, we all agreed

Laos and Kamu Lodge felt light years from home.

Up the MekongAny trip to Laos must include a trip on the

Mekong, the 4,350km river that starts in Tibet,

winds through five countries and ends in

Vietnam. Its an essential transport route in

this mountainous country and the lifeblood

of millions of people, including residents ofthe many villages that line its sandy banks.

An excellent option for families seeking some

adventure is to take a longboat three hours

upriver and stay at Kamu Lodge.

This decade-old venture was established

by a French hospitality company in

partnership with the adjacent village of 450

people, providing employment for them and

a unique experience for visitors. The Khmu,

one of the countrys 50 recognised ethnic

groups, were traditionally mountain dwellers,

but about 15 years ago the government

relocated these families to a lowland village

vacated by the dominant Lao ethnic group.For visitors, activities focus on discovering

traditional life. The children delighted in

planting rice seedlings in the paddies,

checking out the village school and trying their

hand at archery. They spent the remainder of

the time playing with the village children and

overcame the language barrier in a way

that only children can. One of the highlights

for them was handing over the books wed

purchased in LP to the schoolteacher.

Its splendidly isolated. Theres no TV and

no phone coverage; electricity is generated

Make it happenFly to Bangkok and then on to LP with Lao Airlines or Bangkok Airlines. Or, fly to

Vientiane, and on to LP with Lao Airlines.

Five things my kids loved in Laos1 Cycling the dusty back lanes on the outskirts of LP2 Playing with village kids and getting muddy in the rice paddies at Kamu Lodge3 Steering the longboat up the Mekong River, with the help of the skipper

4 Jumping in the waterfalls at Kuang Si

5 Riding up front with the porter in Kiridara Hotels electric buggy

kiridara.com | grasshopperadventures.com | kamulodge.com
http://kiridara.com/http://grasshopperadventures.com/http://kamulodge.com/http://kamulodge.com/http://grasshopperadventures.com/http://kiridara.com/

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Expat Living Singapore's editor Katie Roberts highlights Kamu Lodge an "excellent option for families seeking some adventure" in this month issue, June 2013