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Chemistries for Personal Care
PureSyn™ Polyalphaolefins (PAO)
ExxonMobil ChemicalSynthetics Division
PureSyn™ Polyalphaolefins (PAO)
pH Stability of PureSyn™ PAO
High Purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids
Do not react with acid or base
Stable across entire pH range
Ideal for formulations containing:
AHA/BHA (Anti-aging products)
Strong Bases (Hair relaxers)
Non-Comedogenic
All of the PureSynTM PAO and Ester products are non-comedogenic.
Will not clog poresWill not clog pores
Also non-irritating
Substitute for petrolatum and other comedogenic emollients, for example
• isopropyl myristate
• oleyl alcohol
• safflower oil
• others
Oil-Free Formulations
PureSyn PAO has a hydrocarbon structure with some properties similar to mineral oil.
Formulations made with PureSyn PAO can Formulations made with PureSyn PAO can have an oil-free distinction.
Ingredient list on the formulated product package would have INCI designation:
Hydrogenated polydecene
Hydrogenated C6-14 olefin polymers
Polydecene
Broad range of SpreadabilityPureSynTM PAO and EstersPureSyn products cover the entire range of spreadability.
From very fast to slowFrom very fast to slow
Formulations can be designed with cascading effects by combining components.
May enhance sunscreen performance by providing tailored spreading on skin.
Wide range of emollient properties.
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) Reduction (PureSynTM PAO and Esters)
Certain PureSynTM products significantly reduce TEWL; comparable to petrolatum.
Higher molecular weights provide most Higher molecular weights provide most protection
Provide water retention in skin and barrier protection.
May enhance retention of active ingredients in upper skin layers.
Solubility Profiles Allow Significant Formulation Flexibility PureSynTM PAO and Esters
Broad spectrum of solubility in a range of commonly used cosmetic substances.
Including organic sunscreen active ingredients
Solubility parameters ranging from 8.0 to 9.3Solubility parameters ranging from 8.0 to 9.3
May be matched to sunscreen active ingredients
Selected products have silicone compatibility, especially with dimethicones. May lead to:
improved aesthetics
reduced silicone in formulation
Can be used as carrier fluids and solubilizers.
Other Key Personal Care Characteristics PureSynTM PAO and Esters
Non-greasy with good skin feel
Provide emolliency Provide emolliency
Possess glossing characteristics
May provide water resistance properties
Film formation
Will not suppress foam like silicones
PolyAlphaOlefins (PAO)Synthetic high performance functional fluids
Hydrogenated (saturated) olefin polymers
Manufactured by the catalytic oligomerization of linear alphaolefins having 8 or more carbon atoms
Wax-free combination of relatively unbranched (compared to mineral oil) molecules of predetermined chain length
PAO Chemistry
Linear Oligomerization HydrogenationPAO
LinearAlphaolefins
Oligomerization HydrogenationPAO
PAO Chemistry - OligomerizationH2C CH
C2H5
H2C CH
n-C4H9
H2C CH
n-C6H13
H2C CH
DimersTrimersTetramers
H2C CH
2n-C
8H17
H2C CH
n-C10H21
H2C CH
n-C12H25
H2C CH
n-C14H30
1-C18=, 1-20=, 1-C22=.......
Ethylene Linear Alphaolefin Polyalphaolefins
TetramersPentamersHexamersHeptamersOctomers.....
PAO Chemistry - Hydrogenation
Hydrogen
H H
Hydrogen
New PAO Technology
Average Side Chain of 6-7 carbons Average Side Chain of 8 carbons
Conventional PureSyn™ PAO New, Patented PureSyn™ PAO
PureSyn™ PAO Typical PropertiesProperties Method 2 4 6
Sp.Grav. @ 15.6oC D 4052 0.798 0.820 0.827
Brookfield Viscosity
@ 25oC, cPs Est. 6 30 50 @ 25 C, cPs Est. 6 30 50
Kinematic Viscosity
@ 100°C, cSt
D 445
1.7
4.1
5.7
@ 40°C, cSt D 445 5.0 18 30
Viscosity Index D 2270 NA 131 134
Pour Point, °C D 97 -66 -63 -54
Flash Point, °C D 92 154 221 243
Color, APHA D 1209 10 10 10
Properties Method 150 300
Sp.Grav. @ 15.6oC D 4052 0.850 0.852
Brookfield Viscosity
@ 25oC, cPs Est. 2900 6200
Kinematic Viscosity
PureSyn™ PAO Typical Properties
Kinematic Viscosity
@ 100°C, cSt
D 445
150
300
@ 40°C, cSt D 445 1,500 3,100
Viscosity Index D 2270 218 241
Pour Point, °C D 97 -33 -27
Flash Point, °C D 92 >265 >265
Color, APHA D 1209 30 30
CTFA INCI NomenclaturePureSyn™ 2 - 6, 150 - 300 = Hydrogenated C6-14 Polyalphaolephins
CTFA = Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
INCI = International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient name
Japanese Registration - JSCI Codes
Product Japan Code Japan Ingredient Name
PureSyn™ 2 N/A N/A
PureSyn 4 502029 Alpha-olefin Oligomer
PureSyn 6 502029 Alpha-olefin Oligomer PureSyn 6 502029 Alpha-olefin Oligomer
PureSyn 100 – 300 N/A N/A
PureSyn™ PAO BenefitsCan be variously characterized as:
High purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids
Wide viscosity range of productsWide viscosity range of products
Stable in high and low pH systems
Non-oily, Non-greasy
Broad spreadability range
Non-comedogenic
Bright and clear
Non-irritating
PureSyn™ PAO FunctionsMay be well-suited for use as:
Emollients/Lubricants
Water resistant agents
Occlusive barrier for moisturizationOcclusive barrier for moisturization
Film formers
Stable carrier fluids
Solubilizers
Glossing Agents
PureSyn™ PAO Personal Care Formulations
Cosmetics
AHA/BHA Products
Hair Relaxers
Antiperspirant/
Can be readily incorporated into:
AHA/BHA Products
Lotions and Creams
Sunscreens
Moisturizers
Antiperspirant/
Deodorants
Gels
Water-in Oil Emulsions
Additional PureSyn™ PAO Properties
Solubilities
Solubility Parameters
Lin Water solubilization
Carbomer dispersionCarbomer dispersion
Surface tension
Refractive Index
HLB (Required) values
Definition of Solubility Parameter• The solubility parameter is an indicator of the solubility characteristics
of one material with another.
• It is the square root of the cohesive energy density (cal/cc)0.5. Thisparameter gives an accurate estimation of the interaction energies in
many diverse systems.
• It can be used to predict the solubility interactions of cosmetic• It can be used to predict the solubility interactions of cosmetic
materials in formulated products.
• The solubility parameter of a particular material can be directly
measured by a variety of methods or it can be calculated
• The parameter can be calculated by adding up the component parts and
then used to predict possible uses, probable substitutions and potential
problem interactions.
• A general guideline is that if the solubility parameters for two or more
materials are within +/- 1.5 (cal/cc)0.5, they are miscible.
PureSyn™ PAO - Solubility Parameters: Fedors Correlation
Product Solubility Parameter
(cal/cc)0.5
PureSyn 2 7.99
PureSyn 4 8.09 PureSyn 4 8.09
PureSyn 6 8.14
PureSyn 150 8.38
PureSyn 300 8.38
PureSyn™PAO Surface Tension Measurements
Product Dynes/cm (24° C)
PureSyn 2 28.0
PureSyn 4 29.1
PureSyn 6 29.8 PureSyn 6 29.8
PureSyn 150 30.7
PureSyn 300 30.4
Measurement Procedure;PureSyn 2 - 100; Wilhelmy Plate MethodPureSyn 150 - 3000; Spinning Drop Method
PureSyn™PAO Refractive IndicesProduct @ 25oC
PureSyn 2 1.4418
PureSyn 4 1.4535
PureSyn 6 1.4565
PureSyn 150 1.4695 PureSyn 150 1.4695
PureSyn 300 1.4707
Mineral Oils 1.4670-1.4900
PureSyn™ PAO Potential Attributes in Personal Care Applications• Provide a broad range of spreadability values that may be used to
customize skin feel.
• Stable over a broad pH range for easy formulation of acidic alpha- and
beta- hydroxy acid-containing creams as well as very high pH hairbeta- hydroxy acid-containing creams as well as very high pH hair
relaxers.
• Compatible with a wide range of personal care ingredients including
certain sunscreen active ingredients and silicones.
• Can be readily incorporated into a broad range of skin and hair care
formulations.
• Provide barrier protection (high molecular weight/ high viscosity PAO)
in skin care applications by significantly reducing transepidermal
water loss.
PureSyn™ PAO (2-6)ExxonMobil PureSyn polyalphaolefins (PAO) are a unique class of premium fluids whose features set them apart from other hydrocarbon fluids such as mineral oils, petrolatum and polybutene. PureSyn PAO are bright and clear, high purity, hydrogenated PureSyn PAO are bright and clear, high purity, hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids that can be variously characterized as:Non-comedogenic Non-irritating OdorlessStable in high and low pH systemsWhen combined with other personal care ingredients, PureSyn PAO may impart a non-greasy or non-oily feel.
Antiperspirant Stick with PureSyn™ 3E20Phase Ingredient INCI Designation Wt%A DC 245 Fluid Cyclomethicone 40.25A Hansicone Ultrabee Dimethiconol Beeswax 5.00A PureSyn 3E20 Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate 5.00
A Stearyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol 18.00
A Crodafos CES Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate
0.50
A Peg 6000 Distearate PEG-150 Distearate 2.00A Myrj 59 PEG-100 Stearate 2.00A Synchrowax Erl-C C 18-36 Acid Glycol Ester 1.00B Cabosil M-5 Silica 0.75B Reach Azp 908 Suf Aluminum Zirconium, Tetrachlorohydrex GLY 24.00
C TALC 127 WC&D (Talc) Talc 1.00D Fragrance MF 8038 Fragrance 0.50
100.00
Blending Procedure1. Heat ingredients of phase A to 80°C2. Stop heating and add phase B3. Homomix while allowing to cool4. Add remaining phases at 60°C5. Pour at 55°C to 60°C
Anhydrous Antiperspirant Roll-On with PureSyn™ 6
Phase Ingredient INCI Designation Wt%A DC 345 Fluid Cyclomethicone 33.7A Bentone Gel VS-5 PC Cylclomethicone (and) Quaternium-18 Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate20
This anhydrous suspension roll-on antiperspirant applies smoothly to the skin. It is designed to leave a smooth talc-like feel
A Bentone Gel VS-5 PC Cylclomethicone (and) Quaternium-18 Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate20B PureSyn 6 Hydrogenated Polydecene 20C REZAL 36GP Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlohydex-Gly 20C TALC 338 Talc 2D DC193 Surfactant Dimethicone Copolyol 4D Fragrance Fragrance 0.3
Total 100
Blending Procedure1. Mix phase A using the Silverson at 3000 rpm with large head (approx. 3 mins.)2. Add phase B & C3. Mix phase D together and add to batch4. Mix on Silverson until uniform