F I D ,Donghua F I D ,Donghua University,ShanghaiUniversity,Shanghai ，， ChinaChina ，， 20062006

东华大学

东华大学

Weiyuan Zhang ， 2006

Campus of Donghua University in Songjiang district,Shanghai

Campus of Donghua University in Songjiang district,Shanghai

Fashion Institute of Design, Donghua University,Shanghai

Application of Genetic Algorithm Application of Genetic Algorithm to Study the Comfort of to Study the Comfort of

Waterproof Breathable FabricWaterproof Breathable Fabric

Weiyuan zhang,Yan liu,Xiangling Meng

Donghua University,Shanghai,2006

2007 Beltwide Cotton Conferences"Equipping for Excellence"

Outline Abstract Introduction Experimental

Objective ExperimentalSubjective Experimental

Comfort Model Discussion and Conclusions

Abstract An appraisal model based on genetic

algorithms has been developed and applied to the comfort of different kinds of waterproof breathable fabrics on the basis of subjective and objective experimental measurements.

Comparison of the results with real tests shows excellent agreement.

Using the appraisal model we can predict the comfort class of garment made of different kinds of breathable waterproof fabrics in different dressing conditions based on the objective testing indexes.

This paper Two indexes

used in the objective tests, thermal insulating value and thermal insulating value and moist insulating value.moist insulating value.

Three wear trials: Resting, ExercisingResting, Exercising and RainyRainy Procedures Fabrics properties may not really reflect their final

performance on the garments,Three wear trial permit testing more closely to actual wear.

Develop three mathematical simulations of three mathematical simulations of comfort evaluationcomfort evaluation of waterproof breathable by Genetic Algorithm

Outline Abstract Introduction Experimental

Objective ExperimentalSubjective Experimental

Comfort Model Discussion and Conclusions

Experimental Objective Experimental

Materials (Table 1 to table 3)Five high density fabricsFour coated fabricsFive laminated fabricsOne impermeable fabric

Experimental conditions: a climate chamber Temperature : 20℃Relative humidity : 35%Air velocity : 0.1m/s

Experimental methods JISL——WVP Water vapor penetrationLFY-217B test water pressure

Results

Table1 Characteristic of high density experimental fabrics

1＃ High Density Plain /Woven 100% Cotton 120s 0.33 219.71

2＃ High Density Plain /Woven 100% Nylon 0.6 dtex 0.2 129.88

3＃ High Density Plain /Woven 100% Polyester 0.5 dtex 0.16 89.79

4＃ High Density Fleece/Knitted 100% Polyester 0.9 dtex 0.4 150

5＃ High Density Weft/Knitted 100% Polyester 0.6 dtex 0.29 114.71

Type Structure Fiber FinenessThickness

mmMass

g/m2

SamplesNo.

Table 2 characteristic of coated experimental fabrics

Structure Fiber

6＃ Micro-pore Drill//Woven 100% Polyester 0.22 160.58

7＃ Micro-pore Plain/Woven 100% Nylon 0.16 94.21

8＃ Hydrophilic Plain/Woven 100% Nylon 0.39 165.1

9＃ Hydrophilic Plain/Woven 100% Polyester 0.23 120.5

10＃ PVP/Impermeable - - 0.2 187.71

Thicknessmm

Mass

g/m2

SamplesNo.

TypeGround

Objective Experimental

Table 3 characteristic of laminated experimental fabrics

Structure Fiber

11＃PTFE

Micro-poreFilm

3 Plain//Woven 100% Nylon 0.44 175.42

12＃PTFE

Micro-poreFilm

2 Weft/Knitted 100% Nylon 0.27 167.17

13＃PU

HydrophilicFilm

2 Mesh/Knitted 100% Polyester 0.5 217.79

14＃PU

HydrophilicFilm

2 Mesh/Knitted 100% Nylon 0.3 147.42

15＃PU

HydrophilicFilm

2 Plain/Woven 100% Polyester 0.33 185.2

Thicknessmm

Mass

g/m2

SamplesNo.

TypeLayers

No.Ground

Objective Experimental

Results of objective experimental

SamplesNo

Itclo

imWVP

g/(m2·24hs)

PmmH2O

1＃ 0.893 0.358 5237.4 11672＃ 0.864 0.295 5558.4 8333＃ 0.841 0.303 5829.8 8174＃ 1.1 0.442 4505.8 12335＃ 0.836 0.259 6354.7 6176＃ 0.815 0.15 5437.9 22337＃ 0.837 0.203 4545.1 55508＃ 0.84 0.251 3586.4 60339＃ 0.831 0.218 4423.6 5650

10＃ 0.812 0 70.9 998311＃ 0.848 0.292 4796.3 995012＃ 0.839 0.353 6261.2 801713＃ 0.821 0.322 5813 851714＃ 0.828 0.273 4741.7 1101715＃ 0.818 0.211 4248.2 11833

Table 4 Testing Results of experimental fabrics

Fig 1 Testing results （ It ） of experimental fabrics

Fig 1

Shows that three types of waterproof breathable

experimental fabrics have similar heat transfer property.

1-5: Hi gh-densi ty; 6-9: Coated; 10: I mpermeabl e; 11-15: l ami nated

0

0. 2

0. 4

0. 6

0. 8

1

1. 2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Sampl es No.

It(c

lo)

Comparing Results

Fig 2 Testing results （ im ） of experimental fabrics

Fig 2 shows the moisture transfer property ranks as follows High Density > Laminated > CoatedHigh Density > Laminated > Coated

1-5: Hi gh-densi ty; 6-9: Coated; 10: I mpermeabl e; 11-15: l ami nated

0

0. 1

0. 2

0. 3

0. 4

0. 5

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Sampl es No.

i m

Comparing Results

Fig 3 Testing results （ WVP ） of experimental fabrics Fig 3

shows the water vapor transfer property ranks as follows

HighHigh Density > Laminated > CoatedDensity > Laminated > Coated

1- 5: Hi gh- densi t y; 6- 9: Coated; 10: I mpermeabl e; 11- 15: l ami nated

01000200030004000500060007000

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Sampl es No.

WVP(

g/(m

2 ·24

hs))

Comparing Results

Fig 4 Testing results （ p ） of experimental fabrics

Fig 4 shows the waterproof ability ranks as followsLaminated > Coated > High Density

1-5: Hi gh-densi ty; 6-9: Coated; 10: I mpermeabl e; 11-15: l ami nated

02000400060008000

100001200014000

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15Sampl es No.

P(m

mH 2O

)

Comparing Results

Subjective experimental Materials

Seven testing garments were made of waterproof breathable fabrics shown in table 1 to 3

Experimental processPut on the assigned raincoatEnter the climate chamberAppraisal

Results

Sit 10m

Run 10m

Expose to the rain 10mrate

rate

rate

Results of subjective experimental

Table 6 Appraisal Results of testing garments

Table 5 Appraisal ruler(thermal,wetness and overall comfort)

1: extremely discomfort; 5: extremely comfort

1 2 3 4 5

thermal wetnessoverallcomfort

thermal wetnessoverallcomfort

thermal wetnessoverallcomfort

1＃ 4.4 4.3 4.4 3.4 3.1 3.2 3.1 2.9 3

3＃ 4 4.3 4.2 3.7 3.6 3.6 3.2 3.3 3.2

7＃ 3.7 3.8 3.8 3.1 3.3 3.2 3.1 3.3 3.2

8＃ 3.7 3.5 3.6 3 3.1 3 3.6 3.3 3.4

10＃ 3 3.3 3.2 1.6 1.7 1.6 2.5 2.3 2.4

12＃ 3.9 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.9 3.8 3.5 3.6 3.5

14＃ 3.6 3.7 3.6 3 3.1 3 3.4 3.5 3.4

SamplesNo.

Resting Procedure Running Procedure Rainy Procedure

Comfort Model

Introduction of Genetic Algorithms Comfort Model Appraise Model Evaluation of the Appraise Model

Comfort Model

Introduction of Genetic AlgorithmsGlobal optimization methods based on

several metaphors from biological evolutions

Comfort ModelProgram was written in Visual Basic 6.0 Input patterns

It im WVP and P

Output patternsThe comfort class

Table 7 Genetic terms Table 7 Genetic terms

No. of Gene 9

Mutat i on Percent 30%

No. of i ndi vi dual s 100f1 = x + y

f2 = x - y

f3 = x * y

f4 = Exp(Cos(x)) / (Exp(Sin(y)) + 1)

f5 = x3(Cos(x))

f6 = Sin(x)

f7 = Tan(x)

f8 = (Exp(Sin(x)) - Exp(-Sin(x))) / 2

f9 = x

Evolving Function

Comfort Model

Appraise model

Use symbols defined as following

x

f

yx

F

x

F

fx

F

y

Ff f

（ 1）

（ 2）

（ 3）

（ 4）

Fig.5 Appraise Model for Resting Procedure

d

ca

a

b

c

F

f7 f6f5

f1 f8f7

f7 f7 f4

Fig.6 Appraise Model for Running Procedure

a

Ff6 f8 f9 f6 f4

f8

f4f4

f5

Fig. 7 Appraise Model for Fig. 7 Appraise Model for RainyRainy Procedure Procedure

d c

b

a

F

f6 f5 f4

f8 f5

f3

f9

f4f8

Evaluation of the Appraise Model

Six garments made of other samples Subjective appraisalSubjective appraisal with same testing

procedure and experimental condition. ComparisonComparison of the predict comfort class with real

tests (Fig.8,9,10) CorrelationCorrelation between real test and model predict

at three states (Fig 11 & Table 8)

Fig.8 Comparison of predicted results with real Fig.8 Comparison of predicted results with real subjective appraisal in resting proceduresubjective appraisal in resting procedure

00. 5

11. 5

22. 5

33. 5

44. 5

5

1 2 3 4 5 6

Garment No.

Ap

pra

isal valu

e

real test curve model predi ct curve

Comparison of the predict comfort class with real tests in resting

0

0. 51

1. 5

2

2. 53

3. 5

4

1 2 3 4 5 6

Garment No.

Appra

isal Valu

e

r eal test curve model predi ct curve

Fig.9 comparison of predicted results with real Fig.9 comparison of predicted results with real subjective appraisal in running proceduresubjective appraisal in running procedure

Comparison of the predict comfort class with real tests in running

0

0. 5

1

1. 52

2. 5

3

3. 5

4

1 2 3 4 5 6

Garment No.

Appra

isal valu

e

r eal test curve model predi ct curve

Fig.10 Comparison of predicted results with real Fig.10 Comparison of predicted results with real subjective appraisal in rainy proceduresubjective appraisal in rainy procedure

Discussion

Comparison of the predict comfort class with real tests shows excellent agreementexcellent agreement

Comparison of the predict comfort class with real tests in rainy

real test model predict(resting)

model predict(running)

model predict(rainy)

Pearson Correlation

1 .910(*) .958(**) .963(**)

Sig. (2-tailed)

. .012 .003 .002

N 6 6 6 6

real test

4.64.44.24.03.83.63.43.23.0

mod

le p

redi

ct4.8

4.6

4.4

4.2

4.0

3.8

3.6

3.4

3.2

Table 8 correlation between real test and model predict at three states

DiscussionObviously, the correlationcorrelation between real test and model predict is significant significant at three states, that is resting, running and rainy.

Fig.11 The scatter plot of the appraisal values between real test and model predict

Conclusions From the comparison of predicted results with

real subjective appraisal in three testing procedure, we can make a conclusion that the the genetic algorithms proposed in this paper genetic algorithms proposed in this paper offered a satisfactory modeloffered a satisfactory model to study the comfort of three types of waterproof breathable fabrics.

The following conclusions emerged as a result test that same testing garment got different same testing garment got different comfort evaluation result in different testing comfort evaluation result in different testing procedureprocedure, which indicates the relationship between clothing comfort and wear condition.

Thank you for your attentionand

Questions & Suggestions are welcome always.