GERMANY FASHION

GERMANY

MARTINA RINK

FASHION

PRESTEL/ M U N I C H . LO N D O N . N E W Y O R K

Introduction · Martina Rink 8

Tomas Maier 12

Marko Matysik 14

Yasmin Heinz 18

Felix Lammers 20

Torsten Neeland 22

Angelica Blechschmidt 24

Susanne Tide-Frater 26

Jasmin Khezri 28

Josef Voelk and Emmanuel de Bayser 30

Olaf Hajek 32

Dirk Schönberger 34

Vanessa von Bismarck 35

Julia von Boehm 36

Kai Margrander 40

Jina Khayyer 42

Mumi Haiati 43

Kristian Schuller 44

Donald Schneider 48

Deycke Heidorn 52

Anna Bauer 54

Alex Wiederin 56

Silke Werzinger 60

Leyla Piedayesh 62

Jen Gilpin 64

Magomed Dovjenko 68

Julia Freitag 69

Schohaja 70

Rike Döpp 74

Thomas BenTz AND Oliver Lühr 75

Christoph Amend 76

Mirko Borsche 78

Boris Bidjan Saberi 82

Damir Doma 82

CONTENTS

Michael Sontag 83

Vladimir Karaleev 83

Raoul Keil 84

Saskia Diez 86

René Storck 87

Armin Morbach 88

Toni Garrn 92

Heidi Klum/Thomas Hayo 93

Annette and Daniela Felder 94

Alexandra von Rehlingen and Andrea Schoeller 96

Stefan Eckert 97

Susanne Oberbeck 98

Constantin Bjerke 100

Sascha Breuer 102

Philipp Plein 104

Andreas Ortner 106

Bettina Harst 108

Wolfgang Joop 110

Kera Till 112

Papis Loveday 113

Claudia Skoda 114

Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl 116

Esma Annemon Dil 118

Didi Ilse 119

Sandra Bauknecht 120

Alexx and Anton 122

Marcus Kurz 126

Burak Uyan 128

Corinna Springer 130

Kai Kühne 131

Marie Schuller 132

Vincent Peters 134

Andrea Karg 136

Louisa von Minckwitz 138

André Borchers 139

Petra van Bremen 140

Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof 142

Marco Stein 143

Johannes Huebl 144

Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul 146

Petra Bohne 148

Nini Gollong 149

Tatjana Patitz 150

Natalie Acatrini 151

Gladys Perint Palmer 152

Klaus Stockhausen 153

Dawid Tomaszewski 154

Dorothee Schumacher 156

Feride Uslu 158

Bernhard Willhelm 160

Tillmann Lauterbach 162

Karl Anton Koenigs 164

Diane Kruger 166

Sascha Lilic 167

Esther Haase 168

Veruschka 169

F. C. Gundlach 170

Bent Angelo Jensen 172

Tom Rebl 174

Markus Lupfer 176

Karla Otto 178

Jil Sander 181

Anita Tillmann 182

Thomas Steinbrück 183

Jürgen Geßler 184

Markus Mahren 186

Peter Lindbergh 190

Appendix

Biographies 197

Translation 205

Picture credits 206

AcknowledgEments 207

MARTINA RINK/ I N T R O D U C T I O N

Making of “Hello Martina, call me back when you have time!”

It was Peter Lindbergh’s pleasant voice with its Rhine-

land accent on my voicemail – I would never have

thought that a photographic legend could be so warm

and uncomplicated.

A book project is like a family. You live and work

together, the project develops and we develop with it.

Fashion Germany is an illustrated volume with many

highs and occasional lows. In the course of this project

I have met some wonderful people, many of whom,

with their contributions, have become part of this

book: a selection of the most fascinating and ground-

breaking fashion personalities that Germany has to offer,

nationally and internationally. Along with established

big names in the fashion world, this book features

young talents from all areas of fashion. What they all

have in common is the pursuit of new expression,

mastery and perfection.

There are many more people whom I would have liked

to introduce, but who for various reasons could not

participate – among them high-profi le personalities like

the legendary Helmut Newton, who sadly died in 2004.

All other creative minds will know that these lines are

meant for them!

MilestonesIt was thanks to Markus Mahren that I was able to

meet Peter Lindbergh in Berlin – a unique experience

that still fi lls me with gratitude today. Adrian J. Margelist

and I met at the MCM Pop-Up Store opening event in

Munich, thanks to Chris Häberlein, and we clicked

straightaway. I see books as “must-have” objects – the

same goes for MCM Accessories. This is exactly what

connects us and epitomizes this very special cooperation

between us all.

The star make-up artist Yasmin Heinz has told me

the naked truth at diffi cult moments, and a pure and

authentic friendship has developed between us as a

result of her honesty.

People like Josef Voelk and Emmanuel de Bayser

already believed in me without reservation when I was

involved in an earlier project, a book about Isabella

Blow. Since then they have supported me and allowed

me to present my works in a very special context, the

cult institution THE CORNER in Berlin.

Prestel also provides an ideal environment for me. It

is an honour to work with this publisher, where every-

thing is just right, particularly the team, into which

I was warmly welcomed thanks to Andrew Hansen,

and with whom I share a passion for creating books.

As a sign of confi dence, I was allowed to choose my

own designer and art director: Paul Sloman, who had

already successfully designed my fi rst book. I see Paul

and his talent as an essential ingredient for creating

successful books. The person who consistently arouses

my amazement and admiration is Prestel’s programme

manager Claudia Stäuble, the greatest organizational

talent I have ever known.

Magic picturesThe one very particular image by Andreas Ortner.

Once seen, it was immediately clear: that’s it, that’s

the cover! For months we couldn’t see enough of this

photo, and the publishers completely agree. What is so

special about this image is that one could interpret it

in so many ways: it fi ts with Germany, the blonde woman

could be any woman who embodies us nationally and

internationally. To top it all off is the closing section

with photos by Peter Lindbergh; Anna Bauer, who uses

Polaroids to record exceptional moments of the “who’s

who” in the industry; and highly talented photographers

such as Felix Lammers, Vincent Peter and many others.

When I receive emails from my guest authors and open

the attached images, I get a tingling sensation as if I

were opening Christmas presents.

ChallengeMy goal is to see German fashion and the people

behind it from a different perspective – all the suc-

cessful designers, photographers, hair and make-up

artists, models, PR agents, buyers, bookers, art

directors, creative directors, illustrators and other

outstanding personalities who are active worldwide,

on both sides of the footlights. Germany is often

underestimated with respect to fashion. There are

some incredibly talented people in this country who

are internationally successful and work all year round

at the top of their profession without receiving much

public attention. I would like to help free Germany from

its unassuming undercover image and reveal the large

pool of individual creativity that exists. We are recog-

nized for qualities such as punctuality, precision, accu-

racy. What is becoming increasingly clear is our ability

to successfully take on leading roles.

German companies, it is said, are not fashion-friendly.

There are exceptions. The fl agship corporation Mercedes-

Benz offers a spectacular catwalk to German and

international stars and designers in Berlin, and sends

out invitations worldwide to shows in Miami, Istanbul,

Stockholm and New York. People who are on the same

wavelength meet, visions are shared and something

magical and new comes into being. This process must

not stop; our talents are being cultivated abroad, and

perhaps soon we will be able to welcome them back

to Germany.

About

All I can do is books. Books that don’t sit on the shelf

gathering dust but can be admired in beautiful public

places or on a private coffee table. Books that trigger

emotions thanks to the successful teamwork of all who

participate. I make books with soul, with quite individual

ingredients. When I begin a book, I already see it in my

mind’s eye as a fi nished object. I don’t deviate much

from this image. I want to make books with staying

power. Books that accompany and shape people. I see

myself as a sort of conductor, someone who makes a

success out of bringing fabulous people together, like

a good party. I want to celebrate people and companies.

Earlier, I wanted to be a PR person. My mentor Isabella

Blow was always against it. She knew how to express

this in her own inimitable way: “You´ll never be a PR,

darling!” Just as well that I didn’t know how to use

Excel!!!

Opposite page top left: Harriet Verney, Martina Rink and Tim Noble;

top right: Jasmin Khezri and Martina Rink; bottom left: sketch by Karl

Lagerfeld for a piece of the Mon Dupont collection, which Lagerfeld

created exclusively for S.T. Dupont in 2011; bottom right: Martina Rink

and Josef Voelk

11

TOMAS MAIER/ C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R / B OT T E G A V E N E TA

What’s the fi rst thing that springs to mind when

you hear the words “fashion”, “luxury”, and

“Germany”?

Separately, these words have their own distinct – and

not necessarily related – meanings. When I think of

fashion I think of something meant for others, while for

me, luxury is private and personal. Germany is prove-

nance, and a place that inspires deep appreciation for

nature, craft and design.

Who or what inspires you?

I draw inspiration from a number of sources. I spend

a lot of time looking at art and architecture – visiting

galleries, museums and interesting buildings – and

am always inspired by what I see. Nature informs

my work, especially in terms of colour. But I’m also

inspired by the everyday, surrounded by people and

culture, and fi nd it’s simply a matter of keeping your

eyes open. It’s important for me to understand the

real-life needs of Bottega Veneta’s clients, so I’m always

watching how men and women live and function, day

to day.

What skills do Germans benefi t from in the inter-

national fashion industry?

I have a German’s inherent love of both nature and

craft – which were reinforced by the Waldorf school

I attended as a child. Nature serves as a virtually

limitless source of inspiration, and craft is essential to

the Bottega Veneta ethos. Yet I also believe that being

German in an industry that is heavily Italian and French

(and increasingly British and American) lends itself to a

slightly outsider perspective.

How important is craftsmanship in your life for

Bottega Veneta?

Craftsmanship is crucial to Bottega Veneta – it lies at

the heart of the brand. Everything we produce is made

by artisans of exceptional ability, training and commit-

ment. Personally, I believe craftsmanship is a link – to

history and tradition, to place and to one another.

Do you still work with companies in Germany?

If yes, which ones and for what products?

Collaborations are very important to our brand, and

a number of our products are in fact produced in collab-

oration with other very prestigious partners, such as

KPM Berlin for porcelain. Additionally, for fi ne jewellery,

we work with a small, renowned manufacturer, Victor

Mayer. As Bottega Veneta has evolved into a true

luxury lifestyle brand, we have sought partners who are

experts in their fi eld, and who share the same values as

we do, to effectively merge the vision I have for a new

category and the know-how of the partner. While both

are German, most importantly we felt the collaborative

efforts would result in products consistent with our

commitment to quality, craftsmanship, functionality

and timelessness.

What are your personal goals for the future?

I’m always looking to expand the Bottega Veneta

portfolio, with the introduction of new or augmented

product lines. This, of course, depends on the needs

and desires of our customers.

What is your secret for survival in the fashion

world?

There really isn’t one answer, though it’s important

to stand for something and then stay true to that

identity.

What does luxury mean to you?

I have always believed that luxury is defi ned by the

individual. For me, something is luxurious if it’s elusive,

of the highest quality possible and personally

meaningful.

When will you be in Germany next – for what

project or event?

I don’t have set plans at this moment but I hope to be

back very soon.

Top right: Craftsmanship at Bottega Veneta; bottom right: Tomas

Maier and Nine D’Urso behind the scenes of the shooting with

Bruce Weber for the women’s fragrance advertising campaign

13

MARKO MATYSIK/ A R T I S T

“Marko is an original, an embellishment for the fashion

world. He’s an asset not only as a creator of magical

clothes and whimsical accoutrements, but also as a

documenter in words and pictures. His books so

vividly capture the scene of the moment.”

Hamish Bowles (editor-at-large, Vogue USA, World of Interiors, May 2011

15

17

YASMIN HEINZ/ MAKE-UP ART I S T

Beauty comes from honesty and is always defi ning

itself anew. It comes from within; I am responsible

for the outside. But beauty does not mean perfection,

because that can quickly get boring, and I look out

for that. Being creative is the constant search for

expression and visions, as well as their realization.

I fi nd inspiration everywhere.

19

FELIX LAMMERS/ P H OTO G R A P H E R

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