Faille Fabric

7/27/2019 Faille Fabric

1/5

The 1950s were a time of middle-class prosperity. Following World War II, the spirit of the decade

concentrated on family and fun. Fast cars, rock-and-roll music, full skirts worn with bobby socks and

saddle shoes are iconic symbols of the era. You can reproduce 1950s clothing by using vintage or

reproduction patterns, fabrics and clothing accessories. Vintage goods are readily available through

online auctions and antique stores. Reproduction fabrics and reprinted patterns are available at fabric

and craft stores.

Faille is a type of fabric which is woven with a faintly ribbed pattern, creating a distinctive textured

feel. This fabric is often used on formal dresses and gowns, and it can also be used to make

jackets, vests, skirts and other garments. Drapes andupholsterymay utilize faille as well,

typically a heavier grade of this fabric which is designed to stand up to hard use. Many fabric

stores sell faille in a rainbow of colors for people who want to work with it, and the fabric also

appears in garments in department stores, for people who want ready to wear garments.

Cotton, rayon, and silk can all be used to create faille, which is also calledbengalinein some

regions of the world. In all cases, the texture of the fabric is like that of grosgrain; it is ribbed and

slightly stiff. The stiffness makes faille incredibly useful for clothing, as it tends not to deform or

wrinkle, and it can be used to create supportive garments or snug-fitting bodies which will lookgood after hours of wear.

This fabric is primarily worn by women. It has an excellentdrape, which is why it often appears in

wedding gowns, and it was historically popular during the 1940s and 1950s for gowns and

dresses. This fabric is also durable and often quite rugged; it is often very resistant to stains and

tearing, for example. When the woven fabric is made with heavier materials, it can sometimes

withstand quite intensive and varied uses.

Like other ribbed fabrics, faille has to be cut carefully. When you are assembling a pattern, think

about how the pieces will fit together, as you want to avoid creating strange patterns with the

ribbing of the faille. Ideally, the ribbing of two connecting pieces should match up for a smoothlook; avoid perpendicular angles unless you are going for a very specific desired look. It is also

important to make strong hems and seams, so that the fabric will not ravel.

In addition to stocking faille in a variety of colors, many fabric supply stores carry undyed or white

fabric which you can dye to your own specifications. Since ribbed fabrics can be challenging to

dye at times, it is a good idea to consult someone who is experienced with textiles about dyeing

faille, to ensure that you get a smooth, even look.

1950's patterns can be quite complex, and not all are good for a first time dressmaker to use. Have

you made other clothing? And how familiar are you will using a sewing machine?

Also, genuine 1950's patterns are made on a different set of measurements from modern

reproductions, and you will need an accurate set of measurements to work from. You cannot do this

alone! For my standard advice on taking measurements, look here:http://www.diceyhome.free-

online.co.uk/K

If you have never made anything before, I would suggest you put that pattern aside for a while and try

a simple cotton skirt first, to familiarize yourself with the techniques and equipment, the terminology,

and the fabric handling.

You'll need to learn how to read the pattern, how to alter it to fit you, how to lay it out on the fabric,

how to cut it, and the techniques for sewing it together and finishing it so that it doesn't fall to bits or

fray away to nothing on the inside. The best way to do this is a good dressmaking class. Next best is

personal tuition from an experiences seamtress/sewist with patience and a talent for teaching. Failing
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-upholstery.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-upholstery.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-upholstery.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-bengaline.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-bengaline.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-bengaline.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/in-fashion-what-is-a-drape.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/in-fashion-what-is-a-drape.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/in-fashion-what-is-a-drape.htmhttp://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Measuring/Taking-measurements.htmhttp://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Measuring/Taking-measurements.htmhttp://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Measuring/Taking-measurements.htmhttp://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Measuring/Taking-measurements.htmhttp://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Measuring/Taking-measurements.htmhttp://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Measuring/Taking-measurements.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/in-fashion-what-is-a-drape.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-bengaline.htmhttp://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-upholstery.htm


2/5

this, a good sewing manual like the Readers Digest Complete Book of Sewing, Sewing for Dummies,

or one of the Singer illustrated ones will help a great deal.

If you are not familiar with a sewing machine, you will need to practice seams so that they are

straight, and have someone on hand to help you out of a mess when it happens. And it will... But don't

worry - we were all there at one time, and patience is a very fine tool to keep in the sewing room! :)

For some more general advice on sewing equipment, simple pattern alterations, seams and finishes,

and so forth, do pop in to visit me athttp://www.katedicey.co.uk/and look in The Learning Zone.

When you come to make the dress, look on the pattern envelope back for recommended fabrics. For

50's style cotton prints, look at quilting fabrics like these:

http://www.equilter.com/

http://www.virginiaquilter.com/

http://www.bighornquilts.com/

Quilting fabrics aren't cheap, but they do make excellent cotton frocks!

Polka dots have been a firm favourite with girls for well over 100 years. Perhaps it's becausethey are so versatile, in a spotty frock you can be anything from a ravishing rockabilly chickto a demure Fifties poppet, and everything in between!Our 1950s style polka dot swing dresses are beloved by everyone from vintage and burlesquegirls to curvy celebrities like Charlotte Church and Nigella Lawson... they get more columninches than any of our other styles! We're sure it's got rather a lot to do with the wonderfullyflattering cut, thanks to the boned bodice, tightly nipped waist and full circle skirt thatcombine to create a killer hourglass silhouette that supports, cinches and disguises in all theright places. With such a wide array of colours on offer, we're surprised you've resisted longenough to read this far...!

MID-CENTURY TEXTILE DESIGN

Among the vintage interior design trends, themid-century modern designsof the 1950s are holding fast. TV

shows like Mad Men seem to have struck a chord with many yearning for the days of simple style, cleaner lines

and just a hint of frivolity. While many think of the 1950s as the good ole days, times were not as s imple as the

designs which would come out of this atomic era.
http://www.katedicey.co.uk/http://www.katedicey.co.uk/http://www.equilter.com/http://www.equilter.com/http://www.virginiaquilter.com/http://www.virginiaquilter.com/http://www.bighornquilts.com/http://www.bighornquilts.com/http://www.designshuffle.com/filter/mid-century-modernhttp://www.designshuffle.com/filter/mid-century-modernhttp://www.designshuffle.com/filter/mid-century-modernhttp://www.designshuffle.com/filter/mid-century-modernhttp://www.bighornquilts.com/http://www.virginiaquilter.com/http://www.equilter.com/http://www.katedicey.co.uk/


3/5

The 1950s saw the rise of American pop culture amongst the backdrop of economic expansion, nuclear anxietyand social conservatism. With the restraints of the new conservative nature of the times, furniture and textile

designers were taking their cues from the uprising of the younger generation who were participating in a rebellion

of their own. The designers were working hard to create a new home which gave its owners simplicity in every

form but amongst a dynamic-hued palette. Themodern design schemescame in the form of space-age colors

such as bright red and gold, blue and green, Scandinavian harvest gold and avocado green and also soft pastels

of pink, light yellow, sky blue and turquoise. Black and white checkerboard floors and white or brightly colored

walls were a popular backdrop to show off the new colors.

FABRICS
http://www.designshuffle.com/filter/modernhttp://www.designshuffle.com/filter/modernhttp://www.designshuffle.com/filter/modernhttp://www.designshuffle.com/filter/modern


4/5

Full Swing Textileshas a complete line of 1950s retro real barkcloth fabrics with names such as Mid-Century

Modern-Coral and Lake Sebago- Black. The rough, bark-like texture of the 100% cotton crepe weave cloth is produced

exclusively for Full Swing in a U.S. textile factory. Image viaFull Swing Textiles.

Textile patterns came from the iconic designer Lucienne Day with her bright abstract patterns. She said of her

fabrics, I wanted the work I was doing to be seen by people and be used by people. They had been starved ofinteresting things for their homes in the war years, either textiles or furniture.
http://www.fullswingtextiles.com/history.aspxhttp://www.fullswingtextiles.com/history.aspxhttp://www.fullswingtextiles.com/history.aspxhttp://www.fullswingtextiles.com/history.aspxhttp://www.fullswingtextiles.com/history.aspxhttp://www.fullswingtextiles.com/history.aspxhttp://www.fullswingtextiles.com/history.aspx


5/5

The Centre for Advanced Textiles gallery of reproduced textiles by 1950s designers Lucienne Day, Robert Stewart and

Sylvia Chalmers. Image viaThe Centre for Advanced Textiles.

Furniture designers were giving the public organic fluid designs in the forms of the Tulip Chair from Eero

Saarinen and Charles and Ray Eames with their innovative materials such as fiberglass, plastic resin and wire

mesh made chairs designed for Henry Miller which are still in production and popular to this day. Teak was

everywhere as a result of America's love for the influence of the Scandinavians.

The Korean crisis stepped up military requirements while the new designs upped civilian requirements for textiles

and sent the volume in American cloth production to booming proportions in 1950. The New York Times reported

wool prices reached peak numbers, cotton goods had the biggest output since 1943 and rayons were in more

demand than ever before. Out of this came a textile revolution. Textile manufacturers flooded the market with

new colorful, organic textile designs of the 50s in bold barkcloth patterns, simple gingham prints and popular

kitchen prints.

KravetsSta-Kleenperformance fabric is a throwback to the 1950s formaldehyde resin fabrics, with its faux leather feel,

raised circular designs and availability in five bright hues.

Today, we are seeing a rebirth of these textile designs in answer to our own reaction to the societal and political

crisis of recent years. Heimtextil Trend 2010/2011 reported an explosion of good humor and bright colors would

hit the scene in 2011, they call i t a Uni(re)versal. TheCentre for Advanced Textilesreproduces and sells many

of Lucienne Days designs from the 1950s along with the designs of two other noted designers Robert Stewart

and Sylvia Chalmers. Although each unique, all of their fabrics have an optimistic feel to them.
http://www.classictextiles.com/http://www.classictextiles.com/http://www.classictextiles.com/http://www.kfi.net/mkting/kravet/stakleen_long.htmlhttp://www.kfi.net/mkting/kravet/stakleen_long.htmlhttp://www.kfi.net/mkting/kravet/stakleen_long.htmlhttp://www.classictextiles.com/http://www.classictextiles.com/http://www.classictextiles.com/http://www.classictextiles.com/http://www.kfi.net/mkting/kravet/stakleen_long.htmlhttp://www.classictextiles.com/

Documents

Faille Fabric