Fed Std 191a

FED. TEST METHOD STD. NO. 191AJuly 20, 1978SUPERSEDINGFed. Test Method. No. 191December 31, 1968

FEDERAL STANDARD

FOR

TEXTILE TEST METHODS

This standard was approved by theCommissioner, Federal Supply Service,General Services Administration, forthe use of all Federal agencies.

U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1978 - 261-423/1108Orders for this publication are to be placed with General Services Ministration,acting as an agent for the Superintendent of Documents. Single copies of thisstandard are available, without charge at the GSA Business Service Centers inBoston, New York, Philadelphia, Atlanta, Chicago, Kansas City, MO, Fort Worth,Houston, Denver, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Seattle, WA. Additional copiesmay be purchased for 11.25 from the General Services Administration, Specifica-tions Activity, printed Materials Supply Division, Building 197, Naval WeaponsPlant, Washington, DC 20407.

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INFORMATION SHEET

ON

FEDERAL TEST METHOD STANDARDS

This Federal Test Method Standard is issued in looseleaf form to permit theinsertion or removal of new or revised sections and test methods.

All users of Federal Test Method Standards should keep them up to date byinserting revised or new test methods as issued, and removing superseded andcancelled pages.

New and revised material and cancellations will be issued under ChangeNotices which will be numbered consecutively and will bear the date of issuance.Change Notices should be retained and filed in front of the Alphabetical Indexof the Standard until such time as they are superseded by a reissue of theentire Standard.


FED. TEST METHOD STD. NO. 191AJuly 20, 1978

FEDERAL TEST METHOD STANDARD

TEXTILE TEST METHODS

AUTHORITY . This standard is issued pursuant to the Federal Property andAdministrative Service Act of 1949, as ammended, and its application to thepurchase of commodities referred to herein is mandatory on all Federal agencies.

SECTION 1 - SCOPE AND CONTENTS

1.1 Scope. This standard describes the general physical, chemical andbiological methods for testing textile fibers, yarn, thread, rope, othercordage, cloth and fabricated textile products for conformance with the require-ments of Federal and Military Specifications. It does not include certainmethods which are described in the specifications for the materials to whichthey apply. This standard was prepared in order to eliminate unnecessary orundesirable variations in the general procedures. In the event that conflictshould occur between the requirements of this standard and those contained in aspecification or other type of procurement document on date of invitation forbid, the procurement document or specification shall govern.

1.2 Contents. The contents of this standard are as follows:

Section 1.

Section 2.

Section 3.

Section 4.

Section 5.

Section 6.

Section 7.

Section 8.

Section 9.

Section 10.

Scope and Contents

Definitions

Sampling and Number of Specimens

Atmospheric Conditions for Testing

General Notes

Numerical Index of Test Methods

Alphabetical Index of Test Methods

Conversion Equivalents

Test Methods

Supersession Data, Source Information, and Interested Agencies.



SECTION 2 - DEFINITIONS

2.1 Scope. For the purpose of this Standard and all procurement documentsreferring hereto, the following definitions shall apply:

2.2 General Definitions.

2.2.1 Acceptance of a lot. The approval of a lot conforming to contract orspecification requirements.

2.2.2 Rejection of a lot. The disapproval of a lot as not conforming to thecontract or specification requirements.

2.2.3 Standard sample. A standard sample is a sample of material selectedor designated by the Government to meet material requirements and furnished bythe Government for testing purposes. The standard sample is used in evaluatingthe quality of the test specimen for specific characteristics or properties bydirect comparison of the test specimen and standard sample under identicalconditions. Its purpose is to render a definite description of one or moreproperties being evaluated.

2.2.4 Test method. A test method is a detailed description of the requiredway for conducting a test; it is the act of evaluating or determining a requiredproperty or characteristic of a single sample unit by taking one or more measurementaccording to prescribed procedure.

2.2.5 Test result. A test result is the recorded measurement of a requiredproperty or characteristic for a single sample unit when such measurement iscarried out in conformance with prescribed procedure.

2.3 Definitions applicable to sampling.

2.3.1 Random sampling. Random sampling is the procedure used to select itemsfrom the inspection lot so that each item in the lot has an equal chance of beingincluded in the sample. There are many ways of drawing a random sample, perhapsthe best one is the use of a table of random numbers. Such a table facilitatesthe selection of a valid random sample representative of the lot.

2.3.2 Sample. A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn froma lot, the units being selected at random without regard for quality.

2.3.3 Sample size. The sample size is the number of units of a product inthe sample selected for inspection.

2.3.4 Sample for test. A specified number of sample units (units of aproduct) taken from a lot for the purpose of testing for all physical and chemicalproperties for which requirements are specified.


FED. TEST METHOD STD. NO. 191A

2.3.5 Sample unit (for test purposes). The sample unit is the total quantityof material necessary to obtain one test result for each of the properties andcharacteristics specified in the procurement document. In testing of smallpackage units, the sample unit may be a package unit randomly selected from thematerial representing the lot. In testing commodities in which the units areindividually too small to provide sufficient material for evaluating all theproperties specified in the procurement document, the sample unit may be asufficient number of units of the material, taken as an aggregate, to providethe quantity of material required.



SECTION 3 - SAMPLING AND NUMBER OF SPECIMENS

3.1 Sampling. The material to be tested shall be sampled as required inthe applicable procurement document.

3.2 Number of specimens. The number of specimens to be tested for eachproperty and each sample unit shall be as required by the test method unlessspecifically excepted in the procurement document.



SECTION 4 - ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS FOR TESTING

4.1 Humidity and temperature conditions for testing. Unless otherwisespecified in the applicable test method or procurement document, physicaltests of textiles and textile products shall be performed under standardatmospheric conditions and performed on specimens in moisture equilibriumunder standard atmospheric conditions.

4.1.1 Standard atmospheric conditions. Standard atmospheric conditionsfor textiles and textile products testing are 65 percent 2 percent relativehumidity at a temperature of 70F 2F (21C 1C).

4.1.2 Moisture equilibrium. Moisture equilibrium is considered to havebeen reached when, after free exposure of the material to air in motion,controlled at standard atmospheric conditions as defined above, and changein weight in successive weighings made at intervals of one hour is no greaterthan 0.25 percent.

4.2 Preconditioning. In the event of dispute concerning the results oftests that may be affected by the moisture content, the material shall bepreconditioned by being brought to moisture equilibrium with an atmospherehaving a relative humidity of not over 10 percent and a temperature not over.25F (52C). The material shall then be brought to moisture equilibriumunder standard atmospheric conditions as defined above and then tested.



SECTION 5 - GENERAL NOTES

5.1 Content of Methods.

5.1.1 Principal subdivisions. The methods are organized under the followingheadings: 1. Scope, 2. Test Specimen, 3. Number of Determinations, 4. Apparatus,Reagents and Method Cited, 5. Procedure, 6. Report and 7. Notes.

5.1.1.1 Scope. A statement of what the test method is intended to do, theproperty to be measured or evaluated, the material to which the method isapplicable, and the limitations of the method.

5.1.1.2 Test specimen. This specifies that portion of a sample unit, itsdimensions, and the way in which it is to be taken for a single measurement ofa given property or characteristic, and any special preparation the specimenmay require.

5.1.1.3 Number of determinations. A statement of the number of test specimensrequired from each sample unit to be tested.

5.1.1.4 Apparatus, reagents and method(s) cited. A description of the apparatusand reagents required to carry out the test and any other test method(s) formingan integral part of the overall procedure.

5.1.1.5 Procedure. Description of the step-by-step directions for carryingout the test.

5.1.1.5.1 Calculation of results. Description of the techniques required toinsure that the required end result of the characteristic being tested is reached.

5.1.1.6 Report. Specific instructions for expressing the results to insureuniformity of expression and recording of the results.

5.1.1.7 Notes. Additional, but not mandatory information (eg. addresses ofcompanies supplying specific apparatus and equipment) which may be used in theperformance of a specific test method.

5.2 Significance of Dimensional Statements in Methods.

5.2.1 Forms used. Numerical requirements are given in any of three formsillustrated by the following examples: approximately 2 grams, 2 grams and2.000 0.002 grams.

5.2.1.1 Approximately 2 grams. This form of expression implies that thenumerical requirement is not critical and may vary within reason. The permissablevariation is usually dictated by obvious practical considerations and the nearestreadily obtained approximation to the weight and dimensions may be consideredsatisfactory.


FED. TEST METHOD STD. NO. 191.A

5.2.1.2 2 grams. This form of expression implies that the numericalrequirement is to be as close to 2 grams as can be readily measured on thestated material with the usual, ordinary engineering tools.

5.2.1.3 2.000 0.002 grams. This form of expression implies that thenumerical requirement in question must be between 1.998 and 2.002 grams.

5.3 Supplemental Documents.

5.3.1 The Department of Defense has issued two documents supplementing theprovisions of this Standard which are intended to further the achievement ofstandardization of testing techniques and improve obtainment of comparabilityof test results between Laboratories. These documents are Military Handbook737, Handbook for Textile Laboratory Personnel, and Military Standard 1157,Calibration and Calibration Verification Procedures for Textile Test Methods.Copies of the Handbook and Standard may be obtained by addressing the procurementactivity issuing the invitation for bids.

5.4 Activities outside the Federal Government may obtain copies of FederalSpecifications, Standards, and Handbooks as outlined under General Informationin the Index of Federal Specifications and Standards and at the prices indicatedin the Index. The Index, which includes cumulative monthly supplements asissued, is for sale on a subscription basis by the Superintendent of Documents,U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.

5.5 Single copies of this standard and other product specifications requiredby activities outside the Federal Government for bidding purposes are availablewithout charge from Business Service Centers, at the General Services AdministrationRegional Offices in Boston, New York, Washington, DC, Atlanta, Chicago, KansasCity, MO, Fort Worth, Denver, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Seattle, WA.

5.6 Federal Government activities may obtain copies of Federal Specifications,Standards and Handbooks and the Index of Federal Specifications and Standardsfrom established distribution points In their agencies.



METHOD NO.

11001200124014001410150015101520153015341540155016001700

2011201220132015

2016

20202050205120532060

210021012102211021112510251125302535

SECTION 6 - NUMERICAL INDEX OF TEST METHODS

TITLE

Identification - Qualitative Analysis

Identification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification of

Wool, Mohair, Alpaca and SilkCotton, Flax, Hemp, Ramie and JuteManila (Abaca), Sisal and CoirAsbestosGlassRayon, ViscoseRayon, AcetateRayon, CuprammoniumNylon

Melting Point of Synthetic FibersIdentification of Vinylidene Chloride FibersIdentification of Vinyl Chloride-Acetate Copolymer FibersIdentification of Synthetic Fibers by Generic ClassIdentification of Dyes on Animal Fibers

Quantitative Analysis

Dihydroxydichlorodiphenyl Methane Content, Calorimetric MethodDihydroxydichlorodiphenyl Methane Content, Parr Chloride MethodFluorine Content of Textile MaterialsSodium Salt of 5-Chloro -2- [4 Chloro -2- [3- (3,4 Dichloro-phenyl) -Ureido] -Phenoxy] Benzenesulfonate ContentSodium Salt of [(4, 5-Dichloro, 2-Chloromethane Sulfonamide)3, 4, 6, Trichloro] Diphenyl Ether Content

Presence of Labile Sulfur in Textile MaterialsCopper Content of Textiles, Electrolytic MethodCopper Content of Textiles, Polarographic MethodSmall Amounts of Copper and Manganese in TextilesCopper-8-Quinolinolate Content of Textiles, Spectrophoto-metric MethodWool Content, Acid MethodWool Content, Alkali MethodWool Content, Hypochlorite MethodSilk Content of Fiber MixturesSilk Fiber Content of Silk Textiles (Especially Weighted Silk)Cellulose Acetate Content of Fiber Mixtures, Acetic Acid MethodCellulose Acetate Content of Fiber Mixtures, Acetone MethodNylon Content of Fiber MixturesPolyester Content of Fiber Mixtures


260026012610261126202800281028112820

3810

401040214050405240544100

41044108

411041124308

45004502

45044800

4804

48304832

50105020503050405041

505050525060

Numerical Index (contd)Moisture Content, Oven MethodMoisture Content, Oven-Balance MethodNonfibrous Materials in Cotton, Acid MethodNonfibrous Materials in Cotton, Enzyme MethodNonfibrous Materials in Linen TextilesWool Fiber Damage, Alkali Volubility MethodAcidity (pH) of Textiles, Calorimetric MethodpH of Textiles, Electrometric MethodChitin Content of Textiles, as a Measure of FungalFibersBecker Value of Cordage FiberYarn, Thread, Cordage

Contamination

Length-Weight Relation; Thread; Yards Per Pound (m/kg)Yarn Number (Linear Density) of Yarn from PackageDirection of Twist: Yarn, Thread, CordageTwist in Single YarnsTwist and Twist Contraction; Ply YarnsStrength and Elongation, Breaking; and Tenacity; of Thread andYarn; Single StrandStrength, Breaking of Thread and Yam; Skein MethodStrength and Elongation, Breaking; Textile Webbing, Tapeand Braided Items

Crimp in Yarns from Cloth; Dead-Load MethodCrimp in Yams from Cloth; Load-Elongation MethodAbrasion Resistance of Yarn, Thread, and Light Cordage;Uniform-Abrasion (Schiefer) Method

Water Absorption, Dynamic; Tumble Jar MethodWater Absorption: Thread, Cord, Braid, Tape, Webbing;Immersion Method

Water Resistance, Vertical Rise Wicking, ThreadWeathering Resistance; Yarn, Cordage; NaturalMethodWeathering Resistance; Yam, Thread, Cordage;Weathering MethodLeaching Resistance; Cordage; Standard MethodLeaching Resistance; Cordage; Prewet SpecimenFabricsLength of Textile Materials; Determination ofWidth of Textile Materials; Determination ofThickness of Textile Materials; Determination

Weathering

Accelerated

Method

ofWeight of Cloth; Cut, Roll, or Bolt Method; Determination ofWeight of Textile Materials, Small Specimen Method; Determinationof

Yams Per Unit Length (Inch or Centimeter) in Woven ClothStitches per Unit Length in Seams and Stitchings; Determination ofBow of Yarns in Woven Cloth



Numerical Index (contd)

507051005102

5104

510651105120512251325134520052025204

5206

5210521252145216

522052305300

53025303

5304

5306

5308

53095310532054005404

5410542054505452

Wales and Courses in Knit ClothStrength and Elongation, Breaking of Woven Cloth; Grab MethodStrength and Elongation, Breaking of Woven Cloth; Cut StripMethodStrength and Elongation, Breaking of Woven Cloth; Ravel StripMethodTension of Elastic Textile MaterialsSewability of Woven Cloth; Seam Efficiency MethodStrength of Cloth; Ball Bursting MethodStrength of Cloth; Diaphragm Bursting MethodStrength of Cloth, Tearing; Falling-Pendulum MethodStrength of Cloth, Tearing; Tongue MethodStiffness of Cloth, Directional; Hanging Heart Loop MethodStiffness of Cloth, Directional; Cantilever Bending MethodStiffness of Cloth, Directional: Self-Weighted CantileverMethodStiffness of Cloth, Drape and Flex; Cantilever BendingMethodCrease Resistance of Cloth; Cold Press Recovery MethodCrease Resistance of Cloth; Angle of Recovery MethodWrinkle Recovery of Fabrics; Appearance MethodDurable Press on Fabrics, Shirts and Trousers: Evaluation of:Cloth Appearance, Seam Appearance, Fly Appearance, CreaseAppearance and Soil Release

Flexibility of Cloth After LeachingFlexing Resistance of Coated ClothAbrasion Resistance of Cloth; Flexing, Folding Bar (Stoll)MethodAbrasion Resistance of Cloth; Inflated Diaphragm (Stoll) MethodColor Change of Cloth Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting); WireScreen Method

Abrasion Resistance of Cloth; Oscillatory Cylinder (Wyzenbeek)MethodAbrasion Resistance of Cloth; Rotary Platform, Double-Head(Taber) Method

Abrasion Resistance of Cloth; Uniform Abrasion (Schiefer)MethodAbrasion Resistance of Textile WebbingAppearance-Retention of Cloth; pilling and Surface WearPilling Resistance of Textile Fabrics; Brush and Sponge MethodSewability of Woven Cloth; Yarn Severance MethodSewability of Cloths Containing Thermoplastic SyntheticFibers or YarnsSlippage Resistance of Yarns in Cloth; Yarn Distortion MethodSlippage Resistance of Yarns in Cloth; Seam MethodPermeability to Air; Cloth; Calibrated Orifice MethodPermeability to Air; Cloth; Falling Cylinder Method

FED. TEST METHOD STD. NO, 191A


55005502550455065508

5509

5510

5512

5514

5516

5518

55195520552255245526

55285530

5550

55525554555655585580559056005605

5610

5612

5614

5616

Numerical Index

Water Resistance of Cloth;Water Resistance of Cloth;Water Resistance of Coated

(contd)

Dynamic Absorption MethodImmersion Absorption MethodCloth; Spray Absorption Method

Dry Cleaning Test, Accelerated: for LabelsDry Cleaning Solvent Resistance of Cloth With Water-ResistantFinish; Tumble Jar Method

Dry Cleaning Solvent Resistance of Cloth With Water-ResistantFinish: Launder-Ometer Method

Dry Cleaning Resistance of Cloth With Water-Resistant Finish;Rotating Wheel Method

Water Resistance of Coated Cloth: High Range, HydrostaticPressure Method

Water Resistance of Cloth; Low Range, Hydrostatic PressureMethodWater Resistance of Cloth; Water Permeability, HydrostaticPressure Method

Laundering Resistance of Cloth With Water-Resistant Finish;Wash Wheel (Wet Mechanical Action) MethodLaundering Test, Accelerated; for LabelsWater Resistance of Cloth; Drop Penetration MethodWater Resistance of Cloth; Water Impact Penetration MethodWater Resistance of Cloth; Rain Penetration MethodWater Resistance of Cloth With Hydrophobic Finish; SprayMethodWater Resistance of Coated Cloth; Spray MethodPenetration Resistance of Cloth To Passage of Feathers and Down;Tumbling MethodShrinkage in Laundering; Cotton, Linen, and Blended Cotton andLinen ClothShrinkage in Laundering; Cloth Other Than Cotton and LinenShrinkage in Laundering; Wool Cloth; Accelerated MethodMobile Laundry Evaluation For Textile MaterialsShrinkage, Relaxation; Wool ClothShrinkage in Dry Cleaning; ClothShrinkage in Sponging; Wool ClothColorfastness of Textile Materials to Chlorine BleachingColorfastness to Combined Laundering and Bleaching of TextileMaterials; Launder-Ometer MethodColorfastness to Laundering of Cotton and Linen Textile Materials;Launder-Ometer MethodColorfastness to Laundering of Cotton and Linen Cloth; WashWheel MethodColorfastness to Laundering of Wool, Silk, Rayon and OtherTextile Materials; Launder-Ometer MethodColorfastness to Laundering of Wool, Silk and Rayon Cloth;Wash Wheel Method



Numerical Index (contd)

5620

5621

5622

563056325640

56425651

56605662

5671

5672

56755680

5750576057625764580058045830583158325850585158525870587258745900590359045905590659075908

ColorfastnessSolvent

Colorfastnesslene Solvent

ColorfastnessSolvent

ColorfastnessColorfastnessColorfastnessPressing)

Colorfastness

to Dry Cleaning of Textile Materials; Petroleum

to Wet Cleaning of Textile Materials; Perchloroethy-(Associated with Dry Cleaning)to Wet Dry Cleaning of Textile Materials: Petroleum

of Textile Materials to Waterof Textile Materials to Salt Water and Soapof Textile Materials to Dry and Wet Heat (Hot

of Textile Materials to Dry Heat (Sublimation)Crocking of Woven and Knitted Cloth; Standard Sample; MunsellScale Method

Colorfastness to Light of Textile Materials; Accelerated MethodColorfastness to Light of Textile Materials; Natural LightMethodColorfastness of Textile Materials to Weather: AcceleratedWeathering Method

Colorfastness to Weather of Textile Materials; Natural WeatheringMethodColorfastness of Cloth to Oxides of Nitrogen in the AtmosphereColorfastness of Textile Materials to Perspiration; Perspiro-meter Method

Mildew Resistance of Textile Materials; Single Culture MethodMildew Resistance of Textile Materials; Mixed Culture MethodMildew Resistance of Textile Materials; Soil Burial MethodInsect Resistance of Textile MaterialsWeathering Resistance of Cloth; Natural Weathering MethodWeathering Resistance of Cloth; Accelerated Weathering MethodLeaching Resistance of Cloth; Standard MethodLeaching Resistance of Cloth; Minimum Exposure MethodLeaching Resistance of Cloth; Prewet Specimen MethodAccelerated Ageing of Cloth; Oven MethodAccelerated Ageing of Cloth; Closed Container MethodAccelerated Ageing of Cloth; Oxygen MethodTemperature, High; Effect on Cloth FlexibilityTemperature, High; Effect on Cloth BlockingTemperature, Low: Effect on Coated ClothFlame Resistance of Cloth; HorizontalFlame Resistance of Cloth; VerticalFlame Resistance of Cloth; Vertical, FieldFlame Resistance of Material; High Heat Flux Flame ContactFlammability, Burning Rate of Cloth; HorizontalFlammability Test forFlammability, Burning

Sleeping Bag Cloths: Tablet MethodRate of Cloth- 45 Angle



Numerical Index (contd)592059305950595159605962596459705972

60006001600260036004601060116015

6016

6020

71027308

75407550

7552

7554

7556

755875607561

758075909010

Heating (Spontaneous) of ClothElectrical Resistivity of Fabrics; Determination ofAdhesion of Plied (Double Texture) FabricBond Strength of Bonded and Laminated Apparel ClothsAdhesion of Cemented SeamsAdhesion of Strapped SeamsAdhesion of Wet SeamsAdhesion of Coating; Adhesive MethodAdhesion of Coating; Water Resistance MethodCordage (Rope)Length of Ten Turns; CordagePicks Per Inch (Picks/cm); Braided CordageDiameter of CordageCircumference of CordageLength Per Unit Weight; CordageShrinkage of Cordage, Boiling Water Method; Determination ofWater Absorption; CordageStrength and Elongation, Breaking of Cordage; Spliced SpecimenMethodStrength and Elongation, Breaking of Cordage; Non-Spliced SpecimenMethod

Hardness; CordageGarments and Ready-Made ArticlesGripping Strength of Shoe Lace TipsAbrasion Resistance; Socks, Hosiery, and Knitted Cloth; Uniform-Abrasion (Schiefer) MethodStretched Width of Knit ItemsShrinkage in Laundering ofReady-Made ArticlesShrinkage in Laundering ofThan Cotton and LinenShrinkage in Laundering ofAccelerated MethodShrinkage in Laundering ofMobile Laundry MethodShrinkage Relaxation; WoolShrinkage in Laundering ofShrinkage in Laundering ofAccelerated MethodShrinkage in Dry Cleaning;

Cotton and Linen Garments and

Garments and Ready-Made Articles Other

Wool Garments and Ready-Made Articles;

Garments and Ready-Made Articles;

Garments and Ready-Made ArticlesShrink-Resistant Wool SocksShrink-Resistant Treated Wool Socks;

Garments and Ready-Made ArticlesShrinkage in Sponging; Garments and Ready-Made ArticlesShade Matching of Textile Materials; Visual Method



FED. TEST METHOD STD NO. 191AJuly 20, 1978

SECTION 7- ALPHABETICAL INDEX OF TEST METHODS

METHOD NO.

5300

5302

5304

5306

530853094308

7308

58515850585228105960597059725950596259645310

3810595150602510

2511282060035303

567556005640

56425680

5632

TITLE

Abrasion Resistance of Cloth;Method

Abrasion Resistance of Cloth;Method

Abrasion Resistance of Cloth;MethodAbrasion Resistance of Cloth;MethodAbrasion Resistance of Cloth;

Flexing, Folding Bar (Stoll)

Inflated Diaphragm (Stoll)

Oscillatory Cylinder (Wyzenbeek)

Rotary Platform, Double-Head (Taber)

Uniform Abrasion (Schiefer) MethodAbrasion Resistance of Textile WebbingAbrasion Resistance of Yarn, Thread, and Light Cordage; Uniform-Abrasion (Schiefer) Method

Abrasion Resistance; Socks, Hosiery, and Knitted Cloth; Uniform-Abrasion (Schiefer) Method

Accelerated Ageing of Cloth; Closed Container MethodAccelerated Ageing of Cloth; Oven MethodAccelerated Ageing of Cloth; Oxygen MethodAcidity (pH) of Textiles, Calorimetric MethodAdhesion of Cemented SeamsAdhesion of Coating; Adhesive MethodAdhesion of Coating; Water Resistance MethodAdhesion of Plied (Double Texture) FabricAdhesion of Strapped SeamsAdhesion of Wet SeamsAppearance-Retention of Cloth; Pilling and Surface Wear

Becker Value of Cordage FiberBond Strength of Bonded and Laminated Apparel ClothsBOW of Yams in Woven ClothCellulose Acetate Content of Fiber Mixtures, Acetic AcidMethodCellulose Acetate Content of Fiber Mixtures, Acetone MethodChitin Content of Textiles, as a Measure of Fungal ContaminationCircumference of CordageColor Change of Cloth Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting); WireScreen Method

ColorfastnessColorfastnessColorfastnessPressing)ColorfastnessColorfastnessmeter MethodColorfastness

of Cloth to Oxides of Nitrogen in the Atmosphereof Textile Materials to Chlorine Bleachingof Textile Materials to Dry and Wet Heat (Hot

of Textile Materials to Dry Heat (Sublimation)of Textile Materials to Perspiration; Perspiro-

of Textile Materials to Salt Water and Soap


Alphabetical Index (contd)56305671

5605

5620

5612

5610

5614

5616

5660

5662

5672

5621

5622

205020512060

52125210411041125651

60022011

2012

40505510

5509

Colorfastness of Textile Materials to WaterColorfastness of Textile Materials to Weather; AcceleratedWeathering MethodColorfastness to Combined Laundering and Bleaching of TextileMaterials; Launder-Ometer MethodColorfastness to Dry Cleaning of Textile Materials; PetroleumSolvent

Colorfastness to Laundering of Cotton and Linen Cloth; WashWheel MethodColorfastness to Laundering of Cotton and Linen Textile Materials;Launder-Ometer MethodColorfastness to Laundering of Wool, Silk, Rayon and OtherTextile Materials; Launder-Ometer Method

Colorfastness to Laundering of Wool, Silk and Rayon Cloth;Wash Wheel Method

Colorfastness to Light of Textile Materials; AcceleratedMethodColorfastness to Light of Textile Materials; Natural LightMethodColorfastness to Weather of Textile Materials; NaturalWeathering MethodColorfastness to Wet Cleaning of Textile Materials; Perchloroe-thylene Solvent (Associated with Dry Cleaning)

Colorfastness to Wet Dry Cleaning of Textile Materials; PetroleumSolvent

Copper Content of Textiles, Electrolytic MethodCopper Content of Textiles, Polarographic MethodCopper-8-Quinolinolate Content of Textiles, SpectrophotometricMethodCrease Resistance of Cloth; Angle of Recovery MethodCrease Resistance of Cloth; Cold Press Recovery MethodCrimp in Yarns From Cloth; Dead-Load MethodCrimp in Yarns From Cloth; Load-Elongation MethodCrocking of Woven and Knitted Cloth; Standard Sample;Munsell Scale MethodDiameter of CordageDihydroxydichlorodiphenyl Methane Content CalorimetricMethodDihydroxydichlorodiphenyl Methane Content, Parr ChlorideMethodDirection of Twist: Yarn, Thread, CordageDry Cleaning Resistance of Cloth With Water-Resistant Finish;Rotating Wheel Method

Dry Cleaning Solvent Resistance of Cloth With Water-ResistantFinish; Launder-Ometer Method



Alphabetical Index (contd)5508

55065216

59305908590659075900590359045905522052302013

710260205920140012001700141012401530151015201500160015501540110057645518

5519483248305831583258306000501060044010

Dry Cleaning Solvent Resistance of Cloth With Water-ResistantFinish; Tumble Jar Method

Dry Cleaning Test, Accelerated; for LabelsDurable Press on Fabrics, Shirts and Trousers; Evaluation of:Cloth Appearance, Seam Appearance, Fly Appearance, CreaseAppearance and Soil ReleaseElectrical Resistivity of Fabrics; Determination ofFlammability, Burning Rate of Cloth; 45 AngleFlammability, Burning Rate of Cloth; HorizontalFlammability Test for Sleeping Bag Cloths; Tablet MethodFlame Resistance of Cloth; HorizontalFlame Resistance of Cloth; VerticalFlare Resistance of Cloth; Vertical, FieldFlame Resistance of Material; High Heat Flux Flame ContactFlexibility of Cloth After LeachingFlexing Resistance of Coated ClothFluorine Content of Textile Materials

Gripping Strength of Shoe Lace TipsHardness; CordageHeating (Spontaneous) of ClothIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofIdentification ofInsect Resistance

AsbestosCotton, Flax, Hemp, Ramie and JuteDyes on Animal FibersGlassManila (Abaca), Sisal and CoirNylonRayon, AcetateRayon, CuprammoniumRayon, ViscoseSynthetic Fibers by Generic ClassVinyl Chloride-Acetate Copolymer FibersVinylidene Chloride FibersWool, Mohair, Alpaca and Silkof Textile Materials

Laundering Resistance of Cloth With Water-Resistant Finish;Wash Wheel (Wet Mechanical Action) MethodLaundering Test, Accelerated;Leaching Resistance; Cordage;Leaching Resistance; Cordage;Leaching Resistance of Cloth;Leaching Resistance of Cloth;Leaching Resistance of Cloth;Length of Ten Turns; Cordage

for LabelsPrewet Specimen MethodStandard MethodMinimum Exposure MethodPrewet Specimen MethodStandard Method

Length of Textile Materials; Determination ofLength Per Unit Weight; CordageLength-Weight Relation; Thread; Yards Per Pound (m/kg)

FED. TEST METHOD STD.NO. 191A


15345760

57505762555626012600

2610261126202530

5530

54505452281160015320

253520205404

5110540090105580758055525550

7550

7556

7552

7561

75607554

5554

Alphabetical Index (contd)Melting Point of Synthetic FibersMildew Resistance of Textile Materials; Mixed CultureMethod

Mildew Resistance of Textile Materials; Single Culture MethodMildew Resistance of Textile Materials; Soil Burial MethodMobile Laundry Evaluation for Textile MaterialsMoisture Content, Oven-Balance MethodMoisture Content, Oven MethodNonfibrous Materials in Cotton, Acid MethodNonfibrous Materials in Cotton, Enzyme MethodNonfibrous Materials in Linen TextilesNylon Content of Fiber MixturesPenetration Resistance of Cloth To Passage of Feathers and Down;Tumbling Method

Permeability to Air; Cloth; Calibrated Orifice MethodPermeability to Air; Cloth; Falling Cylinder MethodpH of Textiles, Electrometric MethodPicks Per Inch (Picks/cm); Braided CordagePilling Resistance of Textile Fabrics; Brush and SpongeMethodPolyester Content of Fiber MixturesPresence of Labile Sulfur in Textile MaterialsSewability of Cloths Containing Thermoplastic Synthetic Fibersor YarnsSewability of Woven Cloth; Seam Efficiency MethodSewability of Woven Cloth; Yarn Severance MethodShade Matching of Textile Materials; Visual MethodShrinkage in Dry Cleaning; ClothShrinkage in Dry Cleaning; Garments and Ready-Made ArticlesShrinkage in Laundering; Cloth Other Than Cotton and LinenShrinkage in Laundering; Cotton, Linen, and Blended Cotton andLinen ClothShrinkage in Laundering of Cotton and Linen Garments andReady-Made Articles

Shrinkage in Laundering of Garments and Ready-Made Articles;Mobile Laundry MethodShrinkage in Laundering of Garments and Ready-Made ArticlesOther Than Cotton and LinenShrinkage in Laundering of Shrink-Resistant Treated WoolSocks; Accelerated Method

Shrinkage in Laundering of Shrink-Resistant Wool SocksShrinkage in Laundering of Wool Garments and Ready-MadeArticles; Accelerated MethodShrinkage in Laundering; Wool Cloth; Accelerated Method



75905590601055587558211021115420541020532015

2016

520252005204

520650526016

6015

5102

51005104

4108

4100

41045120512251325134754058725870587451065030

Alphabetical Index (contd)

Shrinkage in Sponging; Garments and Ready-Made ArticlesShrinkage in Sponging; Wool ClothShrinkage of Cordage, Boiling Water Method; Determination ofShrinkage, Relaxation; Wool ClothShrinkage Relaxation; Wool Garments and Ready-Made ArticlesSilk Content of Fiber MixturesSilk Fiber Content of Silk Textiles (Especially Weighted Silk)Slippage Resistance of Yarns in Cloth; Seam MethodSlippage Resistance of Yarns in Cloth; Yam Distortion MethodSmall Amounts of Copper and Manganese in TextilesSodium Salt of 5-Chloro -2- [4 Chloro -2- [3- (3, 4 Dichloro-phenyl) -Ureido] -Phenoxy] Benzenesulfonate ContentSodium Salt of [(4, 5-Dichloro, 2-Chloromethane Sulfonamide)3, 4, 6, Trichloro] Diphenyl Ether Content

Stiffness of Cloth, Directional; Cantilever Binding MethodStiffness of Cloth, Directional; Hanging Heart Loop MethodStiffness of Cloth, Directional; Self-weighted CantileverMethodStiffness of Cloth, Drape and Flex; Cantilever Bending MethodStitches per Unit Length in Seams and Stitchings; Determination ofStrength and Elongation, Breaking ofSpecimen Method

StrengthMethodStrengthMethodStrengthStrengthMethodStrengthBraidedStrength

and Elongation, Breaking of

and Elongation, Breaking of

and Elongation, Breaking ofand Elongation, Breaking of

Cordage; Non-Spliced

Cordage; Spliced Specimen

Woven Cloth; Cut Strip

Woven Cloth; Grab MethodWoven Cloth; Ravel Strip

and Elongation, Breaking; Textile Webbing, Tape andI ternsand Elongation, Breaking; and Tenacity; of Thread and

Yarn; Single StrandStrength, Breaking of Thread and Yarn: Skein MethodStrength of Cloth; Ball Bursting MethodStrength of Cloth; Diaphragm Bursting MethodStrength of Cloth, Tearing; Falling-Pendulum MethodStrength of Cloth, Tearing; Tongue MethodStretched Width of Knit ItemsTemperature, High; Effect on Cloth BlockingTemperature, High; Effect on Cloth FlexibilityTemperature, Low; Effect on Coated ClothTension of Elastic Textile MaterialsThickness of Textile Materials; Determination of



40544052

5070601145004502

5520550055025514

552455225516

5526

5512

550455284504580458004800

4804

50405041502021002101210228005214

40215050

Alphabetical Index (contd)

Twist and Twist Contraction; Ply YarnsTwist in Single Yarns

Wales and Courses in Knit ClothWater Absorption; CordageWater Absorption, Dynamic;Water Absorption: Thread,Method

Water Resistance ofWater Resistance ofWater Resistance ofWater Resistance ofMethodWater Resistance ofWater Resistance ofWater Resistance ofPressure Method

Water Resistance ofMethodWater Resistance ofPressure Method

Water Resistance ofWater Resistance of

Cloth;Cloth;Cloth;Cloth;

Cloth;Cloth;Cloth;

Tumble Jar MethodCord, Braid, Tape, Webbing; Immersion

Drop Penetration MethodDynamic Absorption MethodImmersion Absorption MethodLow Range, Hydrostatic Pressure

Rain Penetration MethodWater Impact Penetration MethodWater Permeability, Hydrostatic

Cloth with Hydrophobic Finish; Spray

Coated

CoatedCoated

Water Resistance, Vertical

Cloth; High Range, Hydrostatic

Cloth; Spray Absorption MethodCloth; Spray MethodRise Wicking, Thread

Weathering Resistance of Cloth; Accelerated Weathering MethodWeathering Resistance of Cloth; Natural Weathering MethodWeathering Resistance; Yarn, Cordage; Natural WeatheringMethodWeathering Resistance; Yarn, Thread, Cordage; AcceleratedWeathering Method

Weight of Cloth; Cut, Roll, or Bolt Method; Determination ofWeight of Textile Materials, Small Specimen Method; Determination ofWidth of Textile Materials; Determination ofWool Content, Acid MethodWool Content, Alkali MethodWool Content, Hypochlorite MethodWool Fiber Damage, Alkali Volubility MethodWrinkle Recovery of Fabrics; Appearance Method

Yarn Number (Linear Density) of Yarn From PackageYarns Per Unit Length (Inch or Centimeter) in Woven Cloth




SECTION 8 - CONVERSION EQUIVALENTS

8.1 Temperature conversion.

8.1.1 Celsius to Fahrenheit scales:

9 C + 32 = F5

C F

-20-19-18-17-16-15-14-13-12-11-10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1012345678

-4.0-2.2-0.41.43.25.6.88.6

10.412.214.15.817.619.421.223.24.826.628.430.232.33.835.637.439.241.42.844.646.4

C F

910111213141516171819202122232425262728293031323334353637

48.250.51.853.655.457.259.60.862.664.466.268.69.871.673.475.277.78.880.682.484.286.87.889.691.493.295.96.898.6

C F

3839404142434445464748495051525354555657585960616263646566

100.4102.2104.105.8107.6109.4111.2113.114.8116.6118.4120.2122.123.8125.6127.4129.2131.132.8134.6136.4138.2140.141.8143.6145.4147.2149.150.8

C F

6768697071727374757677787980818283848586878889909192939495

152.6154.4156.2158.159.8161.6163.4165.2167.168.8170.6172.4174.2176.177.8179.6181.4183.2185.186.8188.6190.4192.2194.195.8197.6199.4201.2203.

C F

96979899

100101102103104105106107108109110111112113114115116117118119120121122123124

204.8206.6208.4210.2212.213.8215.6217.4219.2221.222.8224.6226.4228.2230.231.8233.6235.4237.2239.240.8242.6244.4246.2248.249.8251.6253.4255.2


8.1.1 Celsius to Fahrenheit scales: (cont d)

9 C + 32 = F5

C F

125126127128129130131132133134135

257.258.8260.6262.4264.2266.267.8269.6271.4273.2275.

C F

136 276.8137 278.6138 280.4139 282.2140 284.141 285.8142 287.6143 289.4144 291.2145 293.146 294.8

C F

147148149150151152153154155156157

296.6298.4300.2302.303.8305.6307.4309.2311.312.8314.6

F C

01234567891011121314

-17.78-17.22-16.67-16.11-15.56-15.-14.44-13.89-13.33-12.78-12.22-11.67-11.11-10.56-10.

F C

151617181920212223242526272829

-9.44-8.89-8.33-7.78-7.22-6.67-6.11-5.56-5 .-4.44-3.89-3.33-2.78-2.22-1.67

F C

C F

8.1.2 Fahrenheit to Celsius scales:

(F - 32) X 5 = C9

303132333435363738394041424344

-1.11-0.560.0.561.111.672.222.783.333.894.445.5.566.116.67

158159160161162163164165166167168

316.4318.2320.321.8323.6325.4327.2329.330.8332.6334.4

F C

45 7.2246 7.7847 8.3348 8.8949 9.4450 10.51 10.5652 11.1153 11.6754 12.2255 12.7856 13.3357 13.8958 14.4459 15.

C F

169170171172173174175176177178179180

336.2338.339.8341.6343.4345.2347.348.8350.6352.4354.2356.

F C

60 15.5661 16.1162 16.6763 17.2264 17.7865 18.3366 18.8967 19.4468 20.69 20.5670 21.1171 21.6772 22.2273 22.7874 23.33


8.1.2 Fahrenheit to Celsius scales: (contd)

(F - 32) X 5 = C9

F C

7576777879808182838485868788899091929394959697989910010110210310410510610710810911O

23.8924.4425.25.5626.1126.6727.2227.7828.3328.8929.4430.30.5631.1131.6732.2232.7833.3333.8934.4435.35.5636.1136.6737.2237.7838.3338.8939.4440.40.5641.1141.6742.2242.7843.33

F C

111112113114115116117118119120121122123124125126127128129130131132133134135136137138139140141142143144145146

43.8944.4445.45.5646.1146.6747.2247.7848.3348.8949.4450.50.5651.1151.6752.2252.7853.3353.8954.4455.55.5656.1156.6757.2257.7858.3358.8959.4460.60.5661.1161.6762.2262.7863.33


F C

147148149150151152153154155156157158159160161162163164165166167168169170171172173174175176177178179180181182

63.8964.4465.65.5666.1166.6767.2267.7868.3368.8969.4470.70.5671.1171.6772.2272.7873.3373.8974.4475.75.5676.1176.6777.2277.7878.3378.8979.4480.80.5681.1181.6782.2282.7883.33

F C

183184185186187188189190191192193194195196197198199200201202203204205206207208209210211212213214215216217218

83.8984.4485.85.5686. 1186.6787.2287.7888.3388.8989.4490.90.5691.1191.6792.2292.7893.3393.8994.4495.95.5696.1196.6797.2297.7898.3398.8999.44

100.100.56101.11101.67102.22102.78103.33

F C

219220221222223224225226227228229230231232233234235236237238239240241242243244245246247248249250

103.89104.44105.105.56106.11106.67107.22107.78108.33108.89109.44110.110.56111.11111.67112.22112.78113.33113.89114.44115.115.56116.11116.67117.22117.78118.33118.89119.44120.120.56121.11


8.3 Metric equivalents. Metric equivalents, indicated in parenthesesthroughout the test methods, are based on practices, conversion factors,and symbols specified in ASTM E 380 Standard for Metric Practice, and arefor information only.

FED TEST METHOD STD. NO. 191A


SECTION 9 - TEST METHODS



METHOD 1100July 20, 1978

IDENTIFICATION OF WOOL, MOHAIR, ALPACA AND SILK

1. SCOPE

1.1 This method is intended for distinguishing sheeps wool, mohair, alpacaand silk from vegetable, man-made, and mineral fibers. This method is notintended for quantitative determination of these fibers in a blend of fibers.

2. TEST SPECIMEN

2.1 The specimen shall be representative of the sample unit. If there isany evidence of nonhomogeneity, the specimen shall be composed of each variableportion.

3. NUMBER OF DETERMINATIONS

3.1 Unless otherwise specified in the procurement document, one specimen shallbe tested from each sample unit. If fibers or yarns dyed different colors arein the lot, at least two specimens of each color shall be taken for test.

4. APPARATUS AND REAGENTS

4.1 Apparatus.

4.1.1 Reference standard. At least one authentic sample of each of sheepswool, mohair, alpaca and silk shall be kept as a reference standard.

4.1.2 Microscope and accessories. The apparatus for microscopic examinationshall consist of a compound microscope, dissecting needles, glass slides, coverglasses and a cross-sectioning device. The microscope shall be equipped topermit examination of magnifications ranging from 100X to 500X.

4.1.3 Mounting medium. The umounting medium for microscopic examination shallbe a colorless immersion oil with a refractive index of 1.480 0.005 at 20Cand a viscosity of 78.81 sec. Saybolt Universal at 38C (see 7.1).

4.2 Reagents.

4.2.1 Millons reagent. Millons reagent shall be prepared by dissolving1 ml of mercury in 9 ml of concentrated nitric acid (94 percent) and dilutedwith 10 ml of distilled water. This preparation shall be made under a hood.Since this reagent is unstable, it shall be freshly prepared.

FED. TEST METHODS STD. NO. 191A


METHOD 1100

5. PROCEDURE

5.1 Preparation of specimen. The specimen shall be washed in or extractedwith 1,1,1-trichloroethane, ether or alcohol to remove oils, waxes, dirt orany other material that may obscure the fiber characteristics. If it isnecessary to remove the dyes from the specimen which may interfere with theidentification, they may be removed by any procedure that does not damagethe fiber or change any of its characteristics. The specimen shall then bedried.

5.2 Mounting of specimen.

5.2.1 Longitudinal examination. At least a dozen fibers shall be placedon each of two separate slides. On one slide, the fibers shall be immersedin two or three drops of mounting medium and covered with a cover glass. Onthe second slide, the fibers shall be immersed in two or three drops ofMillons reagent and gently warmed after covering with a cover glass.

5.2.2 Cross-sectional examination. Using the cross-sectioning device across-section of at least a dozen fibers shall be prepared and placed on aslide. The cross-section shall be immersed in two or three drops of umountingmedium and covered with a cover glass.

5.3 Microscopic examination. The microscopic examination of the preparedslides shall be made with transmitted light at a magnification of 100X. Ifthis magnification is not sufficient for positive identification, a highermagnification shall be used. The microscopic appearance ofbe compared with that of reference standard prepared in thespecimen.

5.4 Identification.

5.4.1 All protein fibers are colored red to red-brown by

the specimen shallsame manner as the

Millons reagent.

5.4.2 The microscopic appearance readily distinguishes wool, mohair andalpaca from silk, vegetable, man-made and mineral fibers by the epidermis inthe form of surface scales.

5.4.3 Wool fibers. Wool fibers are characterized by pronounced overlappingscales and have individual fiber diameters ranging from 10 to 70 micrometers.The smaller fibers are nearly circular in cross-section, but the larger fibersare often oval or elliptical (Figure 1100A). Wool fibers are seldom pigmentedor medullated.



METHOD 1100

5.4.4 Mohair fibers. Mohair fibers are characterized by a faint epidermisand uniformity of fiber diameter. The individual fiber diameters range from10 to 90 micrometers. Majority of fibers are nearly circular in cross-section(Figure 1100B). Mohair fibers are seldom pigmented or medullated.

5.4.5 Alpaca fibers. Alpaca fibers are characterized by a faint epidermiswith serrated edge and by the presence of fragmental, interrupted or continuousmedulla in majority of the fibers. The individual fiber diameters range from10 to 50 micrometers. The smaller fibers are nearly circular in cross-sectionbut the larger fibers tend to be elongated oval shaped (Figure 1100C). Streakypigmentation is occasionally present in alpaca fibers.

5.4.6 Silk fibers. The microscopic appearance readily distinguishes silkfibers from other animal, vegetable, man-made and mineral fibers. Longitudinallythe fibers look like non-uniform glass rods with individual diameters rangingfrom 10 to 15 micrometers. Cross-sections of fibers vary front triangular withrounded corners to elliptical shape (Figure 1100D). The fibers Show diagonalmarkings but no longitudinal markings.

6. REPORT

6.1 The presence or absence of wool, mohair, alpaca or silk shall be reported.

6.2 If fibers other than the fiber being identified are present, thepresence of other fibers shall also be reported.

7. NOTES

7.1 Immersion oil suitable for microscopic examination may be obtained fromWool Associated of New York Cotton Exchange, Inc., 286 Summer Street, Boston,MA 02210.



METHOD 1100

Cross-SectionalView (500X)

LongitudinalView (250X)

FIGURE 1100A Wool Fibers



METHOD 1100

Cross-SectionalView (500x)


FIGURE 1100B Mohair Fibers



METHOD 1100

FIGURE 1100C Alpaca Fibers





METHOD 1100

FIGURE 1100D Silk Fibers






1. SCOPE

1.1 This

IDENTIFICATION OF COTTON, FLAX, HEMP, RAMIE AND JUTE

method is intended for distinguishing cotton, flax. hemp, ramieand jute from other vegetable, .animal, man-made and mineral fibers. Thismethod is not applicable for determining whether cotton has been subjectedto a mercerization process or for distinguishing different species and varietiesof cotton. This method is not intended for quantitative determination of thesefibers in a blend of fibers.

2. TEST SPECIMEN



3.1 Unless otherwise specified in the procurement document, one specimenshall be tested from each sample unit. If fibers or yarns dyed differentcolors are in the lot, at least two specimens of each color shall be takentest.


4.1 Apparatus.

4.1.1 Reference standard. At least one authentic sample of each of thefollowing shall be kept as a reference standard.

Average American CottonUnbleached and bleached flaxUnbleached and bleached hempUnbleached and bleached ramieCommercial jute

for

4.1.2 Microscope and accessories. The apparatus for microscopic examinationshall consist of a compound microscope, dissecting needles, glass slides, coverglasses, and a cross-sectioning device. The microscope shall be equipped topermit examination of magnifications ranging from 100X to 500X.



METHOD 1200

4.1.3 Blotter.

4.2 Reagentso

4.2.1 Herzbergs stain. The Herzbergs stain shall be prepared as follows:

4.2.1.1 Solution A. Zinc chloride solution at 1.80 specific gravity at28C made by adding 25 ml of distilled water to 50 g of dry CP Zinc chloride(fused sticks in sealed bottles, or crystals).

4.2.1.2 Solution B. 0.25 g of CP iodine and 5.25 g of CP potassium iodinedissolved in 12.5 ml of distilled water.

4.2.1.3 Stain. Mix 25 ml of solution A, measured at 20C with solution B.Pour into a narrow cylinder and let stand until clear (12 to 24 hours). Decantthe supernatant liquid into an amber-colored glass-stoppered bottle and add apiece of iodine to the solution. Avoid undue exposure to light and air.

4.2.2 Solution of one gram of phloroglucinol in 80 ml of 95 percent alcohol.

4.2.3 Concentrated hydrochloric acid.

5. PROCEDURE

5.1 Preparation of specimen. The specimen shall be washed in or extractedwith 1,1,1-trichloroethane, ether or alcohol to remove oils, waxes, dirt orany other material that may obscure the fiber characteristics. It may alsobe-necessary to treat vegetable fibers with 0.5 percent sodium hydroxidesolution, as this aids in breaking up fiber bundles. If it is necessary toremove dyes from the specimen which may interfere with the identification,they may be removed by any procedure that does not damage the fiber or changeany of its characteristics. The specimen shall then be dried.

5.2 Mounting of specimen. At least a dozen fibers shall be placed on aslide. The fibers shall be immersed in three or four drops of Herzbergsstain, covered with a cover glass in such a manner as to avoid air bubbles,allowed to stand for 1 or 2 minutes, and the surplus stain then drained offby tipping the slide edgewise on a blotter.

5.3 Microscopic examination. The microscopic examination of the preparedslide shall be made with transmitted light at a magnification of 100X. Ifthis magnification is not sufficient for positive identification, a highermagnification shall be used. The microscopic appearance of the specimen shallbe compared with the reference standard prepared in the same manner as thespecimen.

.



METHOD 1200

5.4 In the preliminary examination and preparation of jute, a small bundleof the clean fibers shall be immersed for 30 seconds in a freshly preparedsolution made by combining equal parts by volume of the reagents phloroglucinoland concentrated hydrochloric acid.

5.5 Identification.

5.5.1 Cotton fibers. Microscopically, cotton fibers appear like a collapsedrubber tube twisted in an irregular spiral. They have no longitudinal orcross markings. The lumens vary from very narrow to over two-thirds thediameter of the fibers (Figure 1200A). Diameters of individual fibers varyfrom 9 to 25 micrometers and the average from 16 to 20 micrometers. Undyedcotton fibers are stained pink to dark red in color by Herzbergs stain.

5.5.2 Flax or linen fibers. Flax or linen fibers range in individualdiameters from 12 to 25 micrometers. When mounted in Herzbergs stain andviewed through a microscope, the fibers exhibit numerous cross markings knownas nodes which occur frequently along the length of the fiber (Figure 1200B).Unbleached flax fibers are stained reddish gray to purple in color by Herzbergsstain and bleached flax fibers are stained reddish blue.

5.5.3 Hemp fibers. Hemp fibers range in individual diameters from 15 to 50micrometers. When mounted in Herzbergs stain and viewed through a microscope,the fibers exhibit numerous cross markings known as nodes which occurfrequently along the length of the fiber. Fibers also exhibit longitudinalcracks (Figure 1200C). Unbleached hemp fibers are stained a greenish-purplecolor by Herzbergs stain and bleached hemp fibers are stained reddish-blue.

5.5.4 Ramie fibers. Ramie fibers range in individual diameters from 20 to80 micrometers. When mounted in Herzbergs stain and viewed through amicroscope, the fibers exhibit cross-markings known as nodes. Ramie fibersare stained a pink to a bluish-red or reddish-purple color by Herzbergs stain.Young fully bleached fibers may stain blue. Fiber cross-sections showcharacteristic cracks in cell walls and the unusually large periphery whichdistinguishes ramie from hemp and flax (Figure 1200D).

5.5.5 When a singleheld with the free enda clockwise direction,

5.5.6 Jute fibers.

fiber (flax, hemp, or ramie) is wetted with water andtoward the observer, flax and ramie fibers rotate inwhile hemp fiber rotates in a counter-clockwise direction.

Jute fibers range in individual diameters from 20 to25 micrometers. Jute fibers do not exhibit cross-markings and are stained brightyellow by Herzbergs stain. The fibers are stained a dark violet red whenimmersed in a phloroglucinol-hydrochloric acid solution. The fiber cross-sections are sharply polygonal in shape (Figure 1200E).

FED. TEST METHODS STD. NO. 191A


METHOD 1200

6. REPORT

6.1 The presence or absence of cotton, flax, hemp, ramie, or jute shall bereported.

6.2 If fibers other than the fiber being identified are present, the presenceof other fibers shall also be reported.



METHOD 1200

FIGURE 1200A Cotton Fibers




-1


METHOD 1200

FIGURE 1200B Flax Fibers





FIGURE 1200Ccell end

Hemp Fibers

METHOD 1200





METHOD 1200



FIGURE 1200D Ramie Fibers



METHOD 1200

Cross-SectionalView (550K)

FIGURE 1200E Jute Fibers




1.

1.1other


IDENTIFICATION OF MANILA (ABACA), SISAL AND COIR

SCOPE

This method is intended for distinguishing manila, sisal and coir fromvegetable, animal, man-made and mineral fibers. This method is not

intended for quantitative determination of these fibers in a blend of fibers.

2. TEST SPECIMEN

2.1 The specimen shall be representative of the sample unit. If there isany evidence of nonhomogeneity the specimen shall beportion. The specimen shall not be less than 2 g of


3.1 Unless otherwise specified in the procurementshall be tested from each sample unit. If fibers orare in the lot, at least two specimens of each color


4.1 Apparatus.

composed of each variablethe fiber.

document, one specimenyarnsshall

dyed different colorsbe taken for test.

4.1.1 Reference standard. At least one authenticsisal, and coir shall be kept as a reference standard.

sample of each of manila,

4.2 Reagents.

4.1.2 Microscope and accessories. The apparatus for microscopic examinationshall consist of a compound microscope, dissecting needles, glass slides, coverglasses and a cross-sectioning device. The microscope shall be equipped topermit examination of magnifications ranging from 100X to 500X.

4.1.3 Muffle furnace.

4.1.4 Porcelain crucible.

4.2.1 Nitric acid. Five percent solution of nitric acid prepared by diluting5 ml of concentrated nitric acid, specific gravity 1.42, to a volume of 70 mlwith distilled water.

4.2.2 Sodium hydroxide. Five percent solution of sodium hydroxide.



METHOD 1240

5. PROCEDURE

5.1 Preparation of specimen. The specimen shall be washed in or extractedwith 1, 1, 1-trichloroethane, ether or alcohol to remove oils, waxes, dirtor any other material that may obscure the fiber characteristics. It may alsobe necessary to treat the fibers with 0.5 percent sodium hydroxide solution,as this aids in breaking up fiber bundles. Coir fibers shall be slowly boiledin 5 percent solution of sodium hydroxide for 2 to 4 hours and then washed. Ifit is necessary to remove dyes from the specimen which may interfere with theidentification, they may be removed by any procedure that does not damage thefiber or change any of its characteristics. The specimen shall then be dried.

5.2 Manila and sisal. In the preparation of manila and sisal, a small portionof the cleaned fiber shall be further prepared as follows: One end of a bundlecontaining two or three dozen of the cleaned fibers shall be immersed in agently boiling 5 percent solution of nitric acid for 7 minutes. The heatedend of the fiber bundle shall then be washed under the cold water tap for about30 seconds.

5.3 Coir. In the preparation of coir, a small portion of the cleaned fiberafter being boiled in 5 percent solution of sodium hydroxide and washed, shallbe macerated in the mortar until the fiber cells are well separated. Thesecells shall be mounted on a microscope slide and examined under the microscope.

5.4 The remaining portion of the specimen shall be placed in a porcelaincrucible and ashed in the muffle furnace at 932F (500C). Temperatures higherthan 932F (500C) shall not be used. When the ash is free of carbon, thecrucible shall be removed from the furnace, cooled and a portion of the ashshall be placed on a slide, dispersed in water, and examined under the microscope.

5.5 Identification.

5.5.1 Manila fibers. Manila fibers are colored bright orange when heated withboiling 5 percent solution of nitric acid. The microscopic appearance of manilaash is-characterized by the presence of siliceous stigmata, flat rectangularglass-like inclusions with a dimple in one surface. Although often found singly,they develop as strings in the fibers (Figure 1240A).

5.5.2 Sisal fibers. Sisal fibers are colored a pale yellow when heated withboiling 5 percent solution of nitric acid. The microscopic appearance of sisalash is characterized by the presence of slightly curved calcium oxalate crystals.These crystals are often broken in the dispersal into rod-shaped pieces andcurved, pointed particles (Figure 1240B).



METHOD 1240

5.5.3 Coir fibers. Coir fiber cells are short and stiff, being from 0.4 to1 mm in length and from 12 to 14 micrometers in diameter. The cell wall isthick and the lumen has an irregularly indented outline. The cell endsterminate suddenly and are not sharp. Cross sections help to confirm theidentification of coir. The fiber ash consists of small rounded siliceousbodies, often described as yeast-shaped (Figure 1240C).

6. REPORT

6.1 The presence or absence of manila, sisal or coir shall be reported.




METHOD 1240

Figure 1240A- MANILA



METHOD 1240

Figure 1240B - SISAL

FED-STD-191A


METHOD 1240

Figure 1240C - COIR FIBER CELLS




IDENTIFICATION OF ASBESTOS

1. SCOPE

1.1 This method is intended for distinguishing asbestos from otherfibers.

2. TEST SPECIMEN

2.1 The specimen shall be representative of the sample unit. If there isany evidence of nonhomogeneity, the specimen shall be composed of each vari-able portion.


3.1 Unless otherwise specified in the procurement document, one specimen shallbe tested from each sample unit. If fibers or yams dyed different colors arein the lot, at least two specimens of each color shall be taken for test.


4.1 Apparatus.

4.1.1 Reference standard. At least one authentic sample of commercialasbestos fiber shall be kept on hand as a reference standard.

4.1.2 Microscope and accessories. The apparatus for microscopic exam-ination shall consist of a compound microscope, dissecting needles, glassslides, cover glasses, and a cross-sectioning device. The microscope shallbe equipped to permit examination of magnifications ranging from 100x to 500X.

4.1.3 Blotter.

4.2 Reagents.



4.2.1.2 Solution B. 0.25 g of CP iodine and 5.25 g of CP potassium iodidedissolved in 12.5 ml of distilled water.



METHOD 1400

4.2.1.3 Stain. Mix 25 ml of solution A, measured at 20C with solution B.Pour into a narrow cylinder and let stand until clear (12 to 24 hours). Decantthe supernatant liquid into an amber-colored-glass-stoppered bottle and add apiece of iodine to the solution. Avoid undue exposure to light and air.

5. PROCEDURE

5.1 Preparation of specimen. The specimen shall be washed in or extractedwith 1,1,1-trichloroethane, ether or alcohol to remove oils, waxes, dirt orany other material that may obscure the fiber characteristics. If it is neces-sary to remove dyes from the specimen which may interfere with the identifica-tion, they may be removed by any procedure that does not damage the fiber orchange any of its characteristics. The specimen shall then be dried.


5.3 Microscopic examination. The microscopic examination of the preparedslide shall be made with transmitted light at a magnification of 100X. If thismagnification is not sufficient for positive identification, a higher magnificationshall be used. The microscopic appearance of the specimen shall be comparedwith the reference standard prepared in the same manner as the specimen.

5.4 Identification. Asbestos is a fibrous silicate of magnesium and calcium,often in combination with aluminum and iron. In the vein or in large masses, thecolor is light gray, light green, gray, light yellow, or dark blue or brown ifmuch iron is present. But in the fibrous condition it is usually white and theindividual fibers, no matter how fine, seem to be composed of fine threads whichare below the limit of microscopic resolution. Fiber bundles will break if bentat a sharp angle. Most asbestos fibers are stained a yellowish color by Herzbergsstain.

6. REPORT

6.1 The presence or absence of asbestos fiber shall be reported.





IDENTIFICATION OF GLASS

1. SCOPE

1.1 This method is intended for distinguishing glass fibers from asbestosand from organic fibers.

2. TEST SPECIMEN



3.1 Unless otherwise specified in the procurement document, one specimen shallbe tested from each sample unit. If fibers or yams dyed different colors arein the lot, at least two specimens of each color shall be taken for test.


4.1 Apparatus.

4.1.1 Reference standard. At least one authentic sample of commercial glassfiber shall be kept on hand as a reference standard.

4.1.2 Microscope and accessories. The apparatus for microscopic examinationshall consist of a compound microscope, dissecting needles, glass slides, coverglasses, and a cross-sectioning device. The microscope shall be equipped topermit examination of magnifications ranging from 100X to 500X.

4.1.3 Blotter.

4.2 Reagents.

4.2.1 Millons reagent. Millons reagent shall be prepared by dissolving1 ml of mercury in 9 ml concentrated nitric acid (94 percent) and diluted with10 ml of distilled water. This preparation shall be made under a hood. Sincethis reagent is unstable, it shall be freshly prepared.




METHOD 1410

4.2.2.1 Solution A. Zinc chloride solution at 1.80 specific gravity at 28Cmade by adding 25 ml of distilled water to 50 g of dry CP Zinc chloride (fusedsticks in sealed bottles, or crystals).

4.2.2.2 Solution B. 0.25 g of CP iodine and 5.25 g of CPdissolved in 12.5 ml of distilled water.

4.2.2.3 Stain. Mix 25 ml of solution A, measured at 20CPour into a narrow cylinder and let stand until clear (12 tothe supernatant liquid into an amber-colored glass-stoppered

potassium iodide

with solution B.24 hours). Decantbottle and add

a piece of iodine to the solution. Avoid undue exposure to light and air.

4.2.3 Solution of hydrofluoric acid.

5. PROCEDURE

5.1 Preparation of specimen. The specimen shall be washed in or extractedwith 1, 1, 1-trichloroethane, ether or alcohol to remove oils, waxes, dirtor any other material that may obscure the fiber characteristics. If it isnecessary to remove dyes from the specimen which may interfere with theidentification, they may be removed by any procedure that does not damagethe fiber or any of its characteristics. The specimen shall then be dried.


5.3 Microscopic examination. The microscopic examination of the preparedslide shall be made with transmitted light at a magnification of 100X. Ifthis magnification is not sufficient for positive identification, a highermagnification shall be used. The microscopic appearance of the specimenshall be compared with the reference standard prepared in the same reamer asthe specimen.

5.4 Identification. Glass fibers are usually white or clear but may be anycolor. They break with a smooth fracture when bent sharply upon themselves.Microscopically, they are perfectly regular in diameter throughout theirlength. They have absolutely no smooth surface and are not affected by stainsor ordinary reagents. Glass filaments are soluble in hydrofluoric acid. Ifthere is evidence of the presence of other fibers or organic matter, the natureof these fibers may be determined by mounting in Millons reagent or in Herzbergsstain.



METHOD 1410

6. REPORT

6.1 The presence or absence of glass fiber shall be reported.





IDENTIFICATION OF RAYON, VISCOSE

1. SCOPE

1.1 This method is intended for distinguishing viscose rayon from otherman-made fibers and from animal, vegetable, and mineral fibers.

2. TEST SPECIMEN



3.1 Unless otherwise specified in the procurementshall be tested from each sample unit. If fibers orare in the lot, at least two specimens of each color

4.

4.1

APPARATUS AND REAGENTS

Apparatus.

4.1.1 Reference standard. At least one authenticshall be kept on hand as a reference standard.

document, one specimenyarns dyed different colorsshall be taken for test.

sample of commercial rayon

4.1.2 Microscope and accessories. The apparatus for microscopic examinationshall consist of a compound microscope, dissecting needles, glass slides, cover

. glasses, and a cross-sectioning device. The microscope shall be equipped topermit examination

4.1.3 Blotter.

4.2 Reagents.

of magnifications ranging from 100X to 500X.



4.2.1.2 Solution B.dissolved in 12.5 ml of

0.25 g of CP iodine and 5.25 g of CPdistilled water.

FED. TEST

potassium iodide

METHOD STD. NO. 191A


METHOD 1500


5. PROCEDURE

5.1 Preparation of specimen. The specimen shall be washed in or extractedwith 1,1,1-trichloroethane, ether or alcohol to remove oils, waxes, dirt orany other material that may obscure the fiber characteristics. If it is neces-sary to remove dyes from the specimen which may interfere with the identification,they may be removed by any procedure that does not damage the fiber or changeany of its characteristics. The specimen shall then be dried.


5.3 Microscopic examination. The microscopic examination of the preparedslide shall be made with transmitted light at a magnification of 100X. Ifthis magnification is not sufficient for positive identification, a highermagnification shall be used. The microscopic appearance of the specimenshall be compared with the reference standard prepared in the same manner asthe specimen.

5.4 Identification. Viscose rayon is identified under the microscope by themany longitudinal striations (Figure 1500). When mounted in Herzbergs stain,the viscose rayon filaments react to the stain slowly, first becoming pink orlight purple in color and gradually becoming darker. Cut ends and bruised spotson the fibers take up the color much more rapidly, giving the fibers a mottledappearance at times.

6. REPORT

6.1 The presence or absence of viscose rayon fiber shall be reported.




METHOD 1500



FIGURE 1500 - Rayon Fibers, Viscose




IDENTIFICATION OF RAYON, ACETATE

1. SCOPE

1.1 This method is intended for distinguishing acetate rayon from otherman-made fibers and from animal, vegetable, and mineral fibers.

2. TEST SPECIMEN



3.1 Unless otherwise specified inbe tested from each sample unit. If

the procurementfibers or yarns

document, one specimen shalldyed different colors are

in the lot, at least two specimens of each color shall be taken for test.


4.1 Apparatus.

4.1.1 Reference standard. At least one authentic sample of commercialcellulose acetate shall be kept on hand as a reference standard.

4.1.2 Microscope and accessories. The apparatus for microscopic examin-ation shall consist of a compound microscope, dissecting needles, glassslides, cover glasses, and a cross-sectioning device. The microscope shallbe equipped to permit examination of magnifications ranging from 100X to 500X.

4.1.3 Blotter.

4.2 Reagents.


4.2.1.1 Solution A. Zinc chloride solution at 1.80 specific gravity at 28Cmade by adding 25 ml of distilled water to 50 g of dry CP Zinc chloride (fusedsticks in

4.2.1.2dissolved

sealed bottles, or crystals).

Solution B. 0.25 g of CP iodine and 5.25 g of CP potassium iodidein 12.5 ml of distilled water.



METHOD 1510


4.2.2 Glacial acetic acid.

5. PROCEDURE

5.1 Preparation of specimen. The specimen shall be washed in or extractedwith 1,1,1-trichloroethane, ether or alcohol to remove oils, waxes, dirt orany other material that may obscure the fiber characteristics. If it is neces-sary to remove dyes from the specimen which may interfere with the identification,they may be removed by any procedure that does not damage the fiber or change anyof its characteristics. The specimen shall then be dried.

5.2 Mounting of specimen. At least a dozen fibers shall be placed on a slide.The fibers shall be immersed in three or four drops of Herzbergs stain, coveredwith a cover glass in such a manner as to avoid air bubbles, allowed to stand for1 or 2 minutes, and the surplus stain then drained off by tipping the slide edge-wise on a blotter.

5.3 Microscopic examination. The microscopic examination of the preparedslide shall be made with transmitted light at a magnification of 100X. If thismagnification is not sufficient for positive identification, a higher magnifica-tion shall be used. The microscopic appearance of the specimen shall be comparedwith the reference standard prepared in the same manner as the specimen.

5.4 Identification. Acetate rayon filaments have a few longitudinal striations,but they are not so numerous and usually not so conspicuous as those of viscoserayon. Sometimes the filaments have dumbbell-shaped cross sections, giving them theappearance, when viewed longitudinally, of having well-defined canals. Acetaterayon is quickly colored a bright yellow, swells rapidly, and is gradually dissolvedin Herzbergs stain. Acetate rayon dissolves quickly in cold glacial acetic acidbut does not dissolve in cuprammonium solution.

6. REPORT

6.1 The presence of absence of acetate rayon fiber shall be reported.





IDENTIFICATION OF RAYON, CUPRAMMONIUM

1. SCOPE

1.1 This method is intended for distinguishing cuprammonium rayon from otherman-made fibers and from animal, vegetable, and mineral fibers.

2. TEST SPECIMEN

2.1 The specimen shall be representative of the sample unit. If there isany evidence of nonhomogeneity, the specimen shall be composed of each vari-able portion.

30 NUMBER OF DETERMINATIONS

3.1 Unless otherwise specified in the procurement document, one specimen shallbe tested from each sample unit. If fibers or yarns dyed different colors are inthe lot, at least two specimens of each color shall be taken for test.


4.1 Apparatus.

4.1.1 Reference standard. At least one authentic sample of commercialcuprammonium rayon shall be kept on hand as a reference standard.

4.1.2 Microscope and accessories. The apparatus for microscopic exam-ination shall consist of a compound microscope, dissecting needles, glassslides, cover glasses, and a cross-sectioning device. The microscope shallbe equipped to permit examination of magnifications ranging from 100X to 500X.

4.1.3 Blotter.

4.2 Reagents.




FED-STD-191A


METHOD 1520


5. PROCEDURE



5.3 Microscopic examination. The microscopic examination of the preparedslide shall be made with transmitted light at a magnification of 100X. If thismagnification is not sufficient for positive identification, a higher magnificationshall be used. The microscopic appearance of the specimen shall be comparedwith the reference standard prepared in the same manner as the specimen.

5.4 Identification. Cuprammonium rayon is smooth, without longitudinalstriations, and the cross sections are almost circular. The filaments ofcuprammonium rayon are usually smaller in diameter than viscose rayon (Figure1520). The filaments react quickly with Herzbergs stain and are colored purple;the purple soon becomes so dense as to make the filaments nontransparent.

6. REPORT

6.1 The presence or absence of cuprammonium rayon filaments shall be reported.




METHOD 1520

Cross-SectionalView (500x)


FIGURE 1520- Rayon Fibers, Cuprammonium




IDENTIFICATION OF NYLON

1. SCOPE

1.1 This method is intended for distinguishing nylon filaments from otherman-made filaments and from animal, vegetable, and

2. TEST SPECIMEN

2.1 The specimen shall be representative of theany evidence of nonhomogeneity, the specimen shallable portion.


mineral fibers.

sample unit. If there isbe composed of each vari-

3.1 Unless otherwise specified in the procurementshall be tested from each sample unit. If fibers or

document, one specimenyams dyed different

colors are in the lot, at least two specimens of each color shall be taken fortest.


4.1 Apparatus.

4.1.1 Reference standard. At least one authentic sample of commercialnylon shall be kept on hand as a reference standard.

4.1.2 Microscope and accessories. The apparatus for microscopic exam-ination shall consist of a compound microscope, dissecting needles, glassslides, cover glasses, and a cross-sectioning device. The microscope shallbe equipped to permit examination of magnifications ranging from 100X to 500X.

4.1.3 Blotter.

4.2 Reagents.






METHOD 1530


4.2.1.4 Solution of 88 percent formic acid.

5. PROCEDURE



5.3 Microscopic examination. The microscopic examination of the preparedslide shall be made with transmitted light at a magnification of 100X. If thismagnification is not sufficient for positive identification, a higher magnificationshall b