Ferro-Cement Boat Building Manual Volume 1

NAVSHIPS 0982-019-1010

U.S. NAVY

FERRO-CEMENTBOAT BUILDING MANUAL

VOLUME I

NAVAL SHIP SYSTEMS COMMAND

WASHINGTON, D. C.

1972

This document has been approved for public release and sale: Its distribution is unlimited.

http://www.boatdesign.net/ferro/

FOREWORD VOLUME I Page i

FOREWORD

There has been a big increase in the use of cement for the construction of boat hulls.These hulls are commonly referred to as Ferro-Cement. They are constructed from acombination of fine wire, small diameter reinforcing bars and sand-cement mortar.The rapidly increasing popularity of these craft is deserved for the construction tech-niques used to build these vessels are simple and easily learned. The materials used tobuild the hulls are economical and readily available all over the world. Further, thehulls are practical, durable and easily maintained.

This series of manuals has been prepared specifically as a training aid and guide forferro-cement construction. It covers the two basic construction methods currently inuse – the upright welded cage and the inverted wood mold techniques. The "UprightWelded Cage Method" is described from lofting through launching in Volume I. Theconstruction of a 65-foot Patrol Boat Hull is demonstrated. The "Inverted Wood MoldMethod" is described in Volume III; a combination fishing boat is used to describe thismethod. This vessel is detailed from setting-up and outfitting through sea trials.Plastering, the use of plastering tools and hull repair are described in Volume II.

The instructions are in complete detail. The construction stages have been broken downinto Jobs and Tasks. This has been done to enable the reader to absorb the informationin each task before proceeding with the next. Each task is clarified with the use of photo-graphs. Both English and Metric units have been used when describing weights, volumesand measurements.

The construction methods covered in this text series are visually demonstrated in NavyTraining Aid Film Series No. 5862-1-72: Ferro-Cement Boat Building No. 1 throughNo. 18.

Page ii VOLUME I INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

This volume deals with the construction inferro-cement of a 65-foot (19.5 m) power boathull for twin engines. The construction methoddemonstrated is the upright, welded frameworkmethod in suspension from an overheadstructure.

The contents of this volume treat in propersequence with all the construction stages fromlofting through to a hull ready to be plastered.Inevitably, for the purposes of illustrating theconstruction work in detail, one single designof hull had to be chosen. Prospective buildersof other designs of boats within this categoryneed not be deterred, however. The techniquesdemonstrated here may be safely imitated toproduce other hulls of equal proven quality.

Construction Costs:

Costs of construction are what immediatelyinterest the prospective builder. Following thereproduction of the set of drawings from whichthis hull was built, a comprehensive cataloguehas been included. The catalogue lists all theequipment and materials used in the yard andin the construction of the demonstration hull.It will be noted that some of the equipmentand most of the tools were purchased. In thoseinstances where equipment was required onlyfor a short period of time it was, where possible,rented. In cases of either rental or purchasethe prices are recorded as they stood inSeattle, Washington, USA, in the spring of 1972.

The costs of overheads: management, yardmaterial, electricity, insurance, social security,etc., have been omitted because of the wide dif-ferences in these costs from one place to another.

Labor Costs:

Labor costs also differ widely from oneregion to another. For this reason estimatesare given of the number of man-hours requiredto perform a given task by a given trade classi-fication. This information will be found in theConstruction Schedule, a valuable guide whichis placed immediately after the Catalogue inthis Section. From these man-hour estimates(in fact, an actual record of man-hours utilized

in the construction of the demonstration hull),the prospective builder can calculate total laborcosts according to the rates prevailing in hisarea.

The Manager's Check-List:

The Construction Schedule has purposesother than a guide to labor requirements and itsprincipal function is to serve as a form of check-list for management. Here, in condensed form,the manager has set down before him all the essen-tial information required for building the hullefficiently. For precise details on certain jobsthe manager refers, by numbers of Stage, Joband Task, to the corresponding section in thetext, for both text and Construction Schedulefollow the same titles and sequence.

The Construction Schedule reminds themanager when to consult the Catalogue for deliv-eries of materials and equipment. It informs him,as has been mentioned, on what types of trades-men will be required for a certain job, also, howlong the job should take.

Because of printing space requirements onlya skeleton Construction Schedule is includedhere but, in expanded form, more space wouldbe given for the manager's own annotations. Inthe case of series production of one design ofhull the Construction Schedule would be con-stantly revised according to the performance ofthe work force as it gained efficiency. The basicinformation contained in the ConstructionSchedule would be submitted to an over-all,Master Construction Schedule which would pro-ject, on one sheet of paper at any one time thevarying stages of production of all the boats inthe yard. This was the system employed in theBahamas in 1971 when a new boat yard wasdeveloped, men trained and ten ferro-cementvessels of one design were successfully built andlaunched within a five-month period. (SeeVolume III.) If a crisis should arise where a fleetis required in a hurry, a production schedule ofthis type could be effectively used on a protectedbeach to produce one boat complete throughtrials every working day. Providing space, mate-rials, labor and money were available. Details ofthe production method would alter but thistried and proven principle would remain thesame.

INTRODUCTION VOLUME I Page iii

The Illustrated Text:

The bulk of this section is taken up withprecise descriptions of the two constructionstages utilized in the building of the 65-foot(19.5 m) demonstration hull. The text has beenprofusely illustrated with photographs becauseit is felt that in the demonstration of construc-tion techniques a picture can convey theinformation required so much more clearlyand swiftly than words. The ordered seriesof illustrations with their accompanyingcaptions show the construction sequence onits own. A reading of the text will give theprospective builder all the details he requires.

Final stages of plastering

Page iv VOLUME I INDEX

INDEX

Page

FOREWORD i

INTRODUCTION....................................................................................................................... ii

INTRODUCTION TO MATERIAL ORGANIZATION 1

1. Preparatory Work to Establish a Boatyard Overseas 1

2. Materials and Equipment Organization 5

3. Organization of Tools in the Yard 6

4. Drawing and Lines Plan 10

5. Catalogue 22

6. Construction Schedule for Vessel 30

7. Production Planning Chart 43

STAGE 1

JOB 1 - Making Hull Frames 45

Task 1 Making the Lofting Floor 45

Task 2 Sanding and Painting Lofting Floor 46

Task 3 Layout the Lofting Grid 46

Task 4 Lay Out Hull Profile 49

Task 5 Lay Out Hull Sections 50

Task 6 Lay Out Waterlines and Sheer in Plan View 51

Task 7 Set Up Hull Frame Bending Bench 52

Task 8 Drive Nails Along Lofting Floor Station Lines 53

Task 9 Cut Rods for Hull Frames 53

Task 10 Bend Hull Frames 53

Task 11 Mark Reference Lines on Hull Frames 54

Task 12 Store Hull Frames in Pairs 54

JOB 2 - Making Up Deck Beams 55

Task 1 Deck Beam Welding Jig .......................................................................................... 55

Task 2 Cut Flat Bar to Approximate Lengths 56

Task 3 Weld Deck Beams in Jig 56

Task 4 Master Pattern for Deck Beam Camber 57

Task 5 Deck Beam Bending Jig 57

Task 6 Check and Hammer Deck Beams to Master Camber Pattern 57

Task 7 Cleaning and Priming Deck Beams 60

Task 8 Mark Center Line and Buttock Lines on Deck Beams . 60

INDEX VOLUME I Page v

Page

JOB 3 — Assemble Frames, Deck Beams and Suspension Rods 61

Task 1 Lay Hull Frame Pairs in Place on Lofting Floor 61

Task 2 Lay Deck Beam onto Frame and Mark 61

Task 3 Cut and Weld Deck Beam in Place 61

Task 4 Make Deck Knee Bending Jig 62

Task 5 Weld in Deck Knee 63

Task 6 Weld Lower Suspension Rods to Hull Frame 65

Task 7 Weld Athwartship Braces 65

Task 8 Weld Bulwark Supports 66

Task 9 Weld Keel Sections 67

Task 10 Weld Rod Reinforcing to Solid Bulkheads 68

Task 11 Weld Webs to Hull Frames 68

Task 12 Fasten Mesh to Bulkheads, Bulwark Supports and Webs 69

JOB 4 — Erecting Overhead Supports 75

Task 1 Measure Off Base 75

Task 2 Layout and Fasten Wooden Base Plates 75

Task 3 Bolt Piping Base Plate to Wooden Base Plate 75

Task 4 Prepare Piping Supports and Braces 75

Task 5 Weld Overhead Support Frames 75

Task 6 Preparations for Erection of Support Frames 76

Task 7 Erect Overhead Support Structure 77

Task 8 Align and Weld Overhead Support Structure 77

Task 9 Weld Channel to Support Structure at Buttock No. 2 Lines 77

JOB 5 — Establish Base and Support Lines 79

Task 1 Make Center Line and Buttock No. 2 Lines 79

Task 2 Mark Water Lines 79

Task 3 String the Water Line Around the Four Corners of the Structure ..................... 79

Task 4 String Vertical Center Line and Buttock No. 2 Lines 80

JOB 6- Make Stem Piece 81

Task 1 Measure and Cut Stem Piece Rod 81

Task 2 Bend Rod to Shape of the Stem Piece 81

JOB 7 — Hanging Frames, Fairing Frames, Welding Stringers 82

Task 1 Cut Upper Suspension Rods to Size 82

Task 2 Weld Upper Suspension Rods to Hull Frames 82

Task 3 Mark Hull Frame Positions on Longitudinal Girders 82

Task 4 Weld First Hull Frame to Overhead Support Structure 83

Task 5 Weld Remaining Hull Frames to Overhead Support Structure 84

Task 6 Make Alignment Frames for Bow Hull Frames 85

Task 7 Plumb One Hull Frame and Brace 88

Page vi VOLUME I INDEX

Page

Task 8 Plumb Remaining Hull Frames and Brace 88

Task 9 Temporarily Brace Hull Frames to Support Structure Sides 88

Task 10 Weld Stem-Piece to Bow Frames 90

Task 11 Erect Scaffolding to Support Structure 91

JOB 8 - Check Hull and Deck Exterior for Fairness 92

Task 1 Check Hull Exterior for Fairness 93

Task 2 Check Deck Exterior for Fairness 94

Task 3 Stem and Keel Reinforcing 95

Task 4 Keel Deadwood Reinforcing 98

Task 5 Weld Longitudinal Spacer Rods to Hull Frames 100

Task 6 Weld Transom in Place 101

STAGE 2

JOB 1 - Applying Rods and Mesh 102

Task 1 Make Mesh Folding and Cutting Bench 102

Task 2 Fold and Cut Mesh 102

Task 3 Applying First Four Layers of Mesh to the Hull 103

Task 4 Apply Mesh to Transom Interior 106

Task 5 Fasten Longitudinal Reinforcing Rods Above the Mesh 106

Task 6 Remove Underlying Spacer Rods, Replace with LongitudinalReinforcing Rods Overlying the Mesh 109

Task 7 Weld Vertical Rod Reinforcing at Three-Inch Centers 110

Task 8 Make Starter Rod Jig 112

Task 9 Make Starter Rods 113

Task 10 Weld Starter Rods Along Diagonal "D' Line 114

Task 11 Weld Hull Reinforcing Rods at Stem, Keel and Transom 115

Task 12 Staple Interior Mesh to Longitudinal Rods 117

JOB 2 — Deckhead Lining Preparations 118

Task 1 Marking Deck Apertures 118

Task 2 Making Longitudinal Beams for Deck Apertures 118

Task 3 Weld Deck Aperture Beams in Place 119

Task 4 Make Deck Ventilator Coamings 121

Task 5 Weld Deckhead Lining Supports 122

Task 6 Clean and Prime Deck Steel Work 123

JOB 3 - Laying Deckhead Lining 123

Task 1 Fitting Wooden Deckhead Planks 123

Task 2 Installing Deck Ventilator Coamings 127

Task 3 Paint Deckhead Planking 128

Task 4 Fitting Insulation Material 128

Task 5 Laying Hardboard Panels Above Deckhead Insulation Material 130

INDEX VOLUME I Page vii

Page.

JOB 4 - Laying Mesh and Rods on Deck 131

Task 1 Laying First Four Layers of Mesh on Deck 132

Task 2 Weld Longitudinal Reinforcing Rods Over Deckbeams 132

Task 3 Weld Athwartship Reinforcing Rods Above Deck Longitudinal Rods . . . 133

JOB 5 134

Task 1 Apply Bulwarks Screed . 134

Task 2 Weld Bulwarks Longitudinal Rods 136

Task 3 Bend Bulwarks Sheer Rods 136

Task 4 Fair Bulwarks and Weld Sheer Rods in Place 137

Task 5 Fair Hull Steel Reinforcing 139

Task 6 Weld Deck Steel Reinforcing to Hull Framework 140

JOB 6 — Hatch Coaming and Scuppers 141

Task 1 Fabricate Hatch Coaming Screeds 141

Task 2 Weld Hatch Coaming Reinforcing in Place 141

Task 3 Make Scuppers 142

Task 4 Weld Scuppers in Place 144

JOB 7 - Mesh Deck, Coaming and Bulwarks 145

Task 1 Laying Four Layers of Mesh Above Deck Reinforcing Rods 146

Task 2 Mesh Coaming and Bulwarks ................ ............................................................ 147

JOB 8 - Stringers and Sole Supports 148

Task 1 Mark Sole Support Positions 148

Task 2 Weld Sole Support Starter Rods 148

Task 3 Weld Sole Support Screeds 149

Task 4 Weld Diagonal "D" Stringer Screeds 149

Task 5 Mesh Sole Supports and Diagonal "D" Stringers 149

JOB 9 — Installation of Engine Beds and Stern Tubes 150

Task 1 Mark Engine Bed Positions 150

Task 2 Fabricate Engine Bed Screeds 150

Task 3 Install Engine Bed Reinforcing 151

Task 4 Fabricate Stern Tubes 154

Task 5 Prepare Stern Tube Alignment Sights 155

Task 6 Align and Weld Stern Tubes in Place 156

Task 7 Mesh Engine Beds and Stern Tubes 158

JOB 10 - Install Rudder Stuffing Box Supports 158

Task 1 Prepare Rudder Stuffing Box Housings 158

Task 2 Mark Rudder Stuffing Box Positions 159

Task 3 Install Rudder Stuffing Box Housings and Fabricate Supports 160

Task 4 Mesh Rudder Stuffing Box Supports 161

Page viii VOLUME I INDEX

Page

JOB 11 - Hull Exterior Mesh 162

Task 1 Modify Hull External Supports and Braces 162

Task 2 Apply Outer Layers of Mesh to Hull 162

Task 3 Fairing, Cleaning and Final Inspection of Mesh 165

- END OF VOLUME I -

INDEX OF TRAINING FILMS CORRESPONDING

TO THIS TEXT AND THE PAGES THEY RELATE TO

TRAINING FILM SERIES NO. 5862-1-72

Film No.

(1)

(2)

(3)

(4)

(5)

(6)

(7)

(8)

(9)

(10)

Lofting

Making Frames

Erecting an Overhead Support Structure

Erecting Frames

Fairing Hulls

Applying Mesh and Rods to the Hull

Deck Beams and Deckhead Lining

Reinforcing Deck, Bulwarks and Coamings

Webs, Engine Beds, Shaft Log, and RudderStuffing Box

Meshing Hull Preparation for Plastering

Pages

44-

52-

75 -

81 -

92-

102-115-

118-

131 -

112-148-

162-

51

74

80

91

101

111 &117

130

147

114&161

167

General Films

(17) Ferro-Cement Boat Building, the Upright Welded Cage Method

(18) Ferro-Cement Boat Building, the Inverted Wood Mold Method

introduction to Material Organization VOLUME I Page 1

PARTI - INTRODUCTION TO MATERIALORGANIZATION

will always be required when preparing to estab-lish a company abroad.

1. PREPARATORY WORK TO ESTABLISHA BOATYARD OVERSEAS

This is a brief guide to the several factorswhich require examination before attemptingto set up a ferro-cement boatyard on a foreignshore. A detailed appraisal is not possible here.If "foreign" implies shores beyond these ofNorth America, then, as types of climate, geo-graphical locations and societies, all so widelydiffer, only general guidelines can be offered.

Certain assumptions must be made, withinthis context and at this preparatory stage, beforegoing any further:

1. It is assumed that a company is beingformed and so structured as to con-form to the laws of the land.

2. It is assumed that ferro-cement craftare to be produced in series of suffi-cient numbers to justify the capitaloutlay required for the boatyard.

3. It is assumed that an expanding salesmarket exists and that adequate finan-cing is planned to carry the companyinto a future liquid operating position.

These assumptions will seem obvious but,with respect to the first-mentioned in the abovelist, it is surprising how many fair-minded inves-tors are ill prepared to face what often appearsto be quite illogical laws regulating foreigncompanies overseas.

The reason for these inhibiting laws, whichmay sometimes be profit-eliminating if takento the letter, can usually be traced to nationalfears of economic domination from the morepowerful, industrialized countries. It is signifi-cant that most nations on the UNCTAD "under-developed" list have strict regulations on theformation of companies with foreign capitaland management. The assistance of an ener-getic and non-partisan local company lawyer

A) The Design

The boatyard site cannot be fixed, norequipment costs calculated until the first design,or designs, of the craft have been decided.

The first consideration in the design is size.The size of the craft to be built determines thefollowing:

1) The Method of Construction

Craft under 50 feet in length can be morequickly and economically built on the invertedwooden mold method. Over 50 feet, the bettermethod is upright open construction suspendedfrom an overhead support structure.

2) Handling Equipment

For craft under 30 tons dead-weight (in theclass of up to 50 feet), the most versatile piece ofhandling equipment is the self-propelled boatcomporter which will lift, launch and carry craft.In addition to the comporter, lifting equipmentfor turning inverted concrete hulls will be re-quired. As turning hulls is only an occasionaltwo-hour operation in the boatyard, rental,rather than purchase, of a mobile crane isrecommended.

3) Labor, Equipment and Materials

The division of boatyard requirements atthe 30 to 50 feet design size is far-reaching in itseffects on planning. Construction on the invertedwooden mold method makes greater demands oninventory. Quantities of the right kind of lumberat the right kind of price must be readily avail-able. More woodworking equipment is needed,more carpenters will be hired, a different type ofmesh-fastening staple is used with accompanyingdifferences in air-stapling equipment. A greatervariety of hand tools must be maintained on theyard. Yet this construction method remains thefastest and easiest, especially where low qualitylabor is being employed.

Page 2 VOLUME I Introduction to Material Organization

In construction requirements beyond the30-ton, 50-foot design size, the emphasis changesto welders and welding equipment. More per-manent boatyard facilities are needed, amongstwhich will be included a fixed overhead supportstructure for building the boats. Heavier boats,therefore, require heavier handling equipmentall round. Fewer but more skilled men will beemployed on the yard. Construction is slower,consequently the application of yard overheadcharges is proportionately higher for each boatproduced.

If the craft to be built at the yard aredestined for the local market, some considera-tion should be made in the design to localpreferences, at least in the accommodation,cooking and toilet facilities on board. Thebest and the very latest in design is not oftengood enough in some parts of the world. Tradi-tional preferences, peculiar to the region or toreligion, will often be demanded. The Arabseafarer is likely to prefer his transom-hungtoilet; the Japanese fisherman may prefer tosleep on tatami. It is wise to give the customerwhat he wants.

One last point in regard to presenting adesign overseas. Some countries only recognizethe qualifications issued to architects by theirown universities. They may legitimately demandthat a set of designs be examined and certified bya locally qualified architect.

B) The Boatyard Site

The following factors should be consideredwhen searching for an ideal site for the boatyard:

1. Reasonably close to a source of labor,of electric power, potable water andgeneral hardware supply.

2. Sheltered access to a sea or waterwaysystem which has sufficient depth, atleast at high tide, for all drafts of vesselslikely to be handled by the yard.

3. Reasonably close to a port of entryfor ease of delivery of all shipped orimported equipment and materials.This question of ease of delivery refersto customs and banking facilities inaddition to transportation and hand-ling goods.

4. Reasonably close to rental accommo-dations for non-local employees, foodand medical facilities, equipmentrentals, if available.

5. If boats are to be built primarily for afishing industry, then, clearly, the boat-yard must be sited advantageously forthe repair and maintenance of thefishing fleet and its base of operations.

6. Site should be in an area zoned by thelocal authorities for industry, an areawhere no impediments would be placedon future expansion of the yard.

C) Fishing Craft

In the event that a fleet of fishing vesselswere to be built for the development of a localindustry, the following factors should beconsidered:

1. Information should be gathered fromthe country's regional fisheries authorities onexisting regulations, future plans and fish conser-vation policies.

Introduction to Material Organization VOLUME I Page 3

2. Information should be gathered fromthe regional fishing communities onthe species fished, the fishing grounds,the fishing methods used and methodsof conservation of the catch on board.

3. A survey should be made of regionalfish distribution systems and exports,if any.

The information collected from 1, 2 and 3will influence the design of the fishing craft,consequently, the design and location of theboatyard. Types of fishing gear to be used,choice of refrigeration equipment on board,shore facilities in processing, exporting, off-loading and distribution will all be affectedby these findings.

D) Layout and Costs of the Boatyard

At this stage, preparatory information willbe coming together and an idea is being formedof what the boatyard will be required to pro-duce and where it will be located. What willthe boatyard cost, and how long will it take tostart production are likely to be the next ques-tions asked. The following factors will requirepreparation:

1) A Plan for the Boatyard

An architect's complete set of drawingswill be required for the boatyard. This set ofplans will cover specifically:

a) Location, water and land access tothe yard.

b) Lay-out of the yard, plan view.

c) Wharf moorage, floats and anchorageplan.

d) Production time chart showing in-flowof materials, prefabricated parts andequipment.

e) Details of structures, handling andlaunching facilities, repair area.

f) Secondary buildings; stores, office,canteen, warehouse.

g) List of boat construction equipmentfor the yard.

h) List and quantities of buildingmaterials.

The set of plans will have to be copied andsubmitted for approval to the pertinent regionalauthorities whose responsibilities cover the vari-ous aspects of the future boatyard. The numberof regional, even central, authorities who havesome say in the establishing of an enterprise ofthis nature, and who issue the required permitsand licenses, can be bewilderingly large and maysometimes be found to overlap. The fact that aboatyard is situated on the water, and producesboats, appears to have grave military implicationsin some countries. Indeed, the constitutions ofcertain Latin American countries have passed allcoastal and waterway shoreland into the jurisdic-tion of the navy up to a certain distance abovehigh water mark. This shoreland can never bebought outright, only leased and built upon withexplicit permission from the navy high command.

2) Boatyard Construction Costs

Drawings pertaining to specific constructionwork will require submittance to local contractorsfor tender. Certain construction work–if drain-age, dredging or pile-driving is required–willrequire offering to firms specializing in thesefields. This will also hold true if a slipway orelevator launch platform is required. The masspouring of concrete pads, leveling filling and elec-trical installation work is usually more economi-cally and effectively carried out by contractorswith the proper equipment and first-handacquaintance with the local building codes.


Much of the second stage boatyard construc-tion work can probably be managed by the futureboatyard training instructors in charge of a localworkforce of tradesmen and helpers. The firstoperations in construction in the locality willgive the ferro-cement technicians a valuablegrounding in instructing the men in the new sur-roundings and help to establish a working rela-tionship with them. It will also give theinstructors an opportunity to select a nucleusof tradesmen and workers for the time whenactual boat construction begins.

If such a course should be contemplatedan estimate of labor costs must be made. Theinformation sought should specifically includethe following:

a) Numbers of what types of trades-men locally available and currentrates of pay.

b) Regulations concerning hours ofwork, rest periods, medical, social,holiday and other benefits. Thehiring and firing of labor in the con-struction industry. Whether thesupply of transport and work cloth-ing is mandatory or not.

c) Calendar of national and localholidays.

d) Local weather chart. Mean seasonaltemperatures, periods when monsoons,typhoons or other natural impedi-ments to construction are prevalent.

e) Local traditional methods of hiringlabor. Whether direct, through alabor office or through a contractor.

f) Subcontractable services: Transport,cleaning, painting, sand-blasting,work clothing, glazing, etc.

All these factors, if not properly investi-gated beforehand, can play havoc with an esti-mate of labor costs in construction work in a

new country. It is surprising that however experi-enced a person may be in running his own busi-ness in his own country, how often he will omitto investigate at least one of these factors men-tioned here when setting up abroad. Obviously,construction work should never be programmedfor an expected period of monsoon or heavywinds. It must be expected that all businessactivities will come to a standstill for a week inLatin America during Carnival and, in China andJapan, during the New Year festivities. It mustbe understood that the Mohammedan will takeFriday as his day of rest and worship but that heis prepared to work on Sundays.

2. MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENTORGANIZATION

No planning or ordering for the building ofa given number of vessels of a given design canbe started without a full set of drawings in con-junction with a construction schedule. These willdetermine which material and which equipmentneed to be in the yard at what time.

The second step is to calculate what leadtime is required for ordering these goods, calcu-lating transport, handling and customs' delays.Then add sufficient lead time to this total toestimate delivery of the goods, in the yard, 90days ahead of when it will be needed.

This may seem like playing it too safe.Objections may be voiced from the financingside at having funds committed unnecessarilysoon. But, experience has shown that overseasone is particularly at the mercy of events beyondone's control. Unexpected strikes, communalholidays which certain manufacturing firms take,goods mis-routed by rail or road, mistakes madeby shipping departments of firms in packagingthe wrong sizes, and import and export papersnot conforming to local regulations. Unless acomfortable safety margin is built into deliverytimes, the boat-building project overseas maysuddenly find itself brought to a standstill inmid-construction and forced to lay-off workerswhile overhead expenses continue.


If any subcontracted work is to be donethe first work farmed out will generally be thestern tube. Often watertight hatches, fueltanks and rudder assembly may be contractedout to firms with specialized equipment. Inthese instances, a comfortable lead time mustbe given. Delivery dates are never so criticalto the subcontractor as they are to the firmwhich is awaiting the installation of the equip-ment so as to proceed to the next stage ofconstruction.

The subcontractor will need completeblueprints for the section of work he is tocarry out. Often the subcontractor will nothave the necessary materials on hand to dothe job and it may have to be ordered fromoverseas. If this is the case, it may be wiserto order the necessary materials directly anddeliver to the subcontractor on arrival. It isalso wise to check a subcontractor in progressto ensure that the blueprints and instructionsare being followed correctly.

On delivery of materials and equipmentto the yard a check should be made fordamage or short-shipment against the packinglists. Fittings and equipment should be un-packed and preferably laid on shelves in asecure warehouse. Materials should be stackedand stowed according to their programmedorder of use. If checking is carried out imme-diately on arrival the more lead time remainsfor making good any discrepancies in theshipment.

On the subject of packing lists, a word isin order here on shipping documents generally.A full set of shipping documents usually con-sists of the following:

A) Commercial Invoice

Usually an original and four to five copies.This document will state clearly that it is an"invoice." It will contain quantities, a concisedescription of the goods, a unit price figureand a quantity price figure. It will give thename and address of the vendor and the name

and address of the purchaser. The customsauthorities in some countries will not accept acommercial invoice if it shows that discountshave been given. The vendor is wise, therefore,to show only the negotiated prices in unit andtotal forms. Some countries also insist that aninvoice be certified. The usual certificationnotice, either stamped, typed or written ontothe invoice, will read: "This invoice certifiedtrue and correct," and it will be signed beneathby an accountant, cashier or manager of thevending company.

B) Packing List

If the goods shipped according to theinvoice require to be stowed in more than onecontainer, the packing list will enumerate whatis packed into each container. Each containerwill be marked and numbered, the packing listwill show these marks and numbers. Normally,the container will hold a copy of the packinglist and another copy will be attached to theset of shipping documents.

C) Certificate of Origin, or Consular Invoice

Usually an original and one to two copies.Some countries insist on this document whichprovides certified proof of the country of originof the goods. In many cases the consul of thecountry of destination will himself certify itand exact a small fee for doing so.

D) Certificate of Insurance

Most goods shipped overseas are insuredas a matter of course under a general policy onthe part of the shipper. Sometimes a certificateof insurance is called for as proof. When goodsare shipped under the terms of a bank "Letterof Credit" a certificate of insurance will nearlyalways be demanded. In this case the certifi-cate of insurance will cover the cost of thegoods purchased plus the freight to the destina-tion. Usually an original and one to three copieswill be produced.


E) Bill of Lading, or Air Consignment Note

The bill of lading and the air consignmentnote, the first referring to goods shipped by seaand the second by air, are the most importantdocuments in the set. It is the original of the billof lading, endorsed by the consignee, which isthe legal instrument giving the holder the rightto possession of the goods shipped. The billof lading will contain some general information:the number, markings, dimensions and weightof the goods shipped. It will state the namesof the consignee and the name of the carryingvessel. There will be an original and several"non-negotiable" copies; sometimes as manyas twenty will be issued by the shipping agency.The bill of lading will list freight charges plusextras such as dockage, insurance, documen-tation, etc., and the total amount shown ispayable before the original bill of lading ishanded to the consignee or his appointedagents. The same procedure applies for theair consignment note.

3. ORGANIZATION OF TOOLS IN THEYARD

A basic kit of tools should be issued to eachman for him to maintain while in the employ ofthe company. A list of what each tradesman'skit should contain is given at the close of thissection. Further, each employee should begiven ten identical identification discs to beturned in to the person in charge of storeswhen a non-issue tool such as a power planeis to be drawn out.

From the very beginning of the project theattitude of management towards the employee'spossession of the company tools must be oneof absolute firmness. Each man must sign forhis basic kit of tools, know the cost of each tool,and understand that if a tool is lost or misusedto the point of inutility the tool will be paidfor by the consignee. A tool genuinely worn outor defective will, of course, be replaced by the

company. It is a good policy to deduct the valueof the tools from the tradesmen's and laborers'wages. Refunding the full price when the toolsare turned in at the end of the job or when anemployee's service is terminated.

As an aid to individual conservation of thebasic tool kits each man should possess a securable locker in an appropriate building, the owneralone to possess a key to the locker. On noaccount should tools be allowed to leave theconfines of the boatyard. Tools should beissued to tradesmen and laborers alike. Thiswill ensure that each man has good quality toolsto perform his work. If a tradesman is left tosupply his own tools he may only have an incom-plete kit and be continually borrowing fromother men with the result that both men areslowed down, making them unproductive. Peri-odical kit inspections should be carried outand new tools issued and charges made for toolslost. Replacement tools should be issued forthose that are genuinely worn out.

Grinders and saw benches must also be setup on a job where men may sharpen their toolsduring break time. If not, the result will be menwandering over to the sharpening area at all timesduring the day with the excuse to hone a chisel,etc. The company should either sub-contracthand and power saw sharpening and setting orappoint one man to sharpen saws continually forall the tradesmen. A carpenter, for instance,will take twice as long and only do one-half asgood a job if he is using poor or dull tools. Theinitial cost and maintenance of tools should becalculated when setting up a job. Money spenthere will have a tremendous effect on the effi-ciency and quality of work being produced.

Power tools and more specialized handtools and accessories should be maintained in atoolroom constantly watched over by an em-ployee who devotes his time to tool maintenance.This man will be in charge of handing out andreceiving tools and logging the employee'snumber when a tool has been withdrawn. Toavoid delay in the morning and evenings, whentools are being withdrawn and returned in quan-tities, a second man should lend his assistance.


Without strict controls over tools, rein-forced with a policy of obliging the tradesmanto pay for loss or willful neglect, there would beno end to the company's continual replacementof tools abused or spirited away. A sound sys-tem of accounting for tools is a more reliablesafeguard than a stout wire fence, padlocksand security guards.

Given below are the lists of tools whichare suggested for issue to each tradesman beforebeginning work on the yard.

A) CARPENTERS - Basic Issue Tool Kit:

1 Smoothing plane1 Block plane1 Jack plane1 10 Point handsaw, cross-cut1 8 Point handsaw, cross-cut1 Coping saw and blades1 Compass saw and blades1 Hacksaw and blades1 16-oz. (1 kg.) clawhammer1 Nail set — 3 sizes: small, medium, large1 Set bashing chisels - 1/4",1/2", 3/4", 1"

(6 mm, 13 mm, 20 mm, 25 mm)1 Carpenter's apron1 10' (3 m) steel tape measure1 2' (600 mm) spirit level1 Set compass1 2' (600 mm) wrecking bar

Selection of sand papers1 Ratchet brace and set of bits - 1/4" - 1"

(6 mm — 25 mm)1 Hand drill and set of drills - 1/32" to

1/4" (0.79 mm -6 mm)1 Set screw countersink heads1 Large ratchet screwdriver with selection

of heads1 Small screwdriver

B) PAINTERS - Basic Issue Tool Kit:

3 4" (100 mm) paint brushes3 3" (76 mm) paint brushes3 11/2" (38 mm) paint brushes1 Face mask with spare filters1 Roller tray

1 Roller handle (with extensions)4 9" (228 mm) paint rollers1 Paint scraper1 Putty knife5 Ibs. (2.5 kg) rags1 Roll 1" (25 mm) masking tape

Selection of sand papers

C) WELDERS - Basic Issue Tool Kit:

1 Welder's hood1 Pair dark cutting goggles1 Pair leather gloves1 Leather apron1 Chipping hammer1 2 Ibs (1 kg) engineer's hammer1 Pair 10" (254 mm) common pliers1 Pair Vice-grip pliers1 Magnetic spirit level1 Flint lighter1 Set tip cleaners1 12" (300 mm) Coarse flat mill bastard

file1 12" (300 mm) Coarse half round bastard

file1 12" (300 mm) Coarse round bastard

file1 Leather electrode pouch1 Soapstone (marking chalk) holder and

spares

D) DRAFTSMEN/ENGINEERS - Basic IssueYard Tool Kit:

1 16-oz. (1 kg) hammer1 100' (30 m) Steel tape measure1 10' (3 m) Steel tape measure1 Chalk line plus chalk1 Smoothing plane1 10 Point handsaw1 2' (600 mm) spirit level1 Magnetic spirit level1 Transit level with tripod


E) PLASTERERS - Basic Issue Tool Kit:

2 4" x 12" (100 mm x 300 mm) Stainlesssteel standard trowels

1 4" x 16" (100 mm x 400 mm) round-edge swimming pool trowel

1 Aluminum hawk1 Coarse sponge float1 Fine sponge float1 Edger1 3-gallon galvanized bucket1 6" (152 mm) water brush1 Pair waterproof work gloves

F) LABORERS - Basic Issue Tool Kit:

1 16-oz. (1 kg) Claw hammer1 Carpenter's apron1 2' (600 mm) wrecking bar1 Pair 10" (254 mm) common pliers1 Pair 1/2" (13 mm) Hog ring pliers1 Pair 3/4" (20 mm) Hog ring pliers1 Face mask with spare filters1 Pair work gloves

A Final Word on Tools Issue:

It cannot be emphasized too strongly theimportance of supplying good quality hand andpower tools on a boat building job. If, forinstance, a man is being paid $2.00 per hourand is working without proper tools he may

well be producing less than $1.00 per hour inactual output and personally working harder toachieve it. Eight hours a day, forty hours a week,multiplies at an alarming rate on even a small job.An inexperienced man given proper tools willsoon start turning out acceptable work. Thebest illustration for this is that of the companysupplying a power cut-off saw (which will pro-duce accurate square cuts every time) instead ofa dull hand saw. Even a master craftsman willnot be able to cut a board accurately using adull hand saw with no set to it. If a man issupplied with good tools to do his job he willturn out good work and take increasing pridein his work. Good tools make the work easy.Poor tools make work hard and frustrating.Using improper tools is probably one of themajor causes of a job failing to reach its pro-jected target dates.

One of the first jobs to attend to whenstarting up a project is to have a carpenterconstruct tool boxes for every tradesman anti-cipated being employed on the job. As eachtradesman is employed, his individual toolbox should be issued with the required toolsand a proper receipt signed.

Construction Drawings VOLUME I Page 9

CONSTRUCTION DRAWINGS

FOR A

65-FOOT PATROL BOAT HULL

Page 10 VOLUME I Lines Plan

Figure 1. Lines Plan

Isometric of Hull Components VOLUME I Page 11

Figure 2. Isometric of Hull Components

Page 12 VOLUME I Corrected Table of Offsets

Figure 3. Corrected Table of Offsets

Layup for Rod and Mesh VOLUME I Page 13

Figure 4. Layup for Rod and Mesh

Page 14 VOLUME I Deck Plan and Construction Details

Figure 5. Deck Plan and Construction Details

Inboard Profile and Frame Groups VOLUME I Page 15

Figure 6. Inboard Profile and Frame Groups

Page 16 VOLUME I Construction Details

Figure 7. Construction Details

Construction Details -Rudder Post and Engine Bed VOLUME I Page 17

Figure 8. Construction Details — Rudder Post and Engine Bed

Page 18 VOLUME IConstruction Details -Strut and Stuffing Box

Figure 9. Construction Details - Strut and Stuffing Box

Hull Support Structure VOLUME I Page 19

Figure 10. Hull Support Structure

Page 20 VOLUME I Thru Hull Installation and Wiring

Figure 11. Thru Hull Installation and Wiring

Material List and Construction Schedule VOLUME I Page 21

MATERIAL LISTS AND CONSTRUCTION SCHEDULE

FOR A

65-FOOT PATROL BOAT HULL

Page 22 VOLUME I Catalogue

YARD EQUIPMENT: HAND TOOLS & ACCESSORIES

(N.B. All prices quoted in U.S. Dollars, Seattle, Washington, 1972.)

1 Sledge-Hammer, 2 Ibs. (1 kg) $ 6.834 Hammer 11.401 Duo-fast Staple Hammer for 5/16" x 5/8" (8 mm x 16 mm) staples 16.851 Yard broom, stiff bristles 1.691 Floor broom, soft bristles, 24" (600 mm) wide 9.502 Shovels, square-ended 11.421 Bench Vise, 6" (150 mm) 36.741 Hacksaw, metal 4.15

24 Hacksaw blades 18.215 Tapes, pocket, retractable, 10' (3 m) in metric and inches 20.502 Refill tapes for above 3.001 Tape, 100' (30m) 45.361 Cat's Paw wreck bar, 12" (300 mm) 2.951 16" (400 mm) wreck bar 3.453 Centre punches 2.805 Electrical extension cords, 50' (15 m) 30.752 Electrical extension cords, 15' (4.5 m) 6.407 Trouble lights with 50' (15 m) extension cords 63.792 C-clamps, 4" (100mm) 5.501 G-clamp, large (for securing block and tackle to roof beams) 8.071 G-clamp, 8" (200 mm) 8.271 Rubber-tired, steel wheelbarrow 39.001 Set Allen wrenches, medium 3.361 Set Allen wrenches, small 2.401 Pipe wrench 4.121 1/16" (14 mm) masonry drill bit 2.639 1/4" (6 mm) masonry drill bits 15.074 5/16" (8 mm) jobber drills for drilling boat support structure foundations 6.841 7/16" (11 mm) drill bit 3.292 5/8" (16 mm) concrete drills 5.631 12" (300 mm) half-round bastard file 3.871 12" (300 mm) flat mill bastard file 2.351 12" (300 mm) flat bastard file 2.581 12" (300 mm) round bastard file 1.953 No. 4 wooden file handles 1.503 No. 3 wooden file handles 0.861 3/4" (22 mm) x 8" (200 mm) cold chisel 2.421 1/4" (6 mm) cold chisel 0.891 Set of wood speed bores 11.62

20 Pairs of 3/4" (20 mm) hog ring pliers 112.4512 Pairs of common pliers 42.554 18'x 3/4" x 3/4" (6.4 m x 20 mm x 20 mm) spruce lofting battens 2.886 12' x 3/4" x 3/4" (3.6 m x 20 mm x 20 mm) spruce lofting battens 3.844 Pair of tin-snips 17.08

10 Carpenters' aprons 18.002 Mason's lines 1.001 Plumb bob 1.731 Step-ladder 17.841 5/8" (16 mm) I.D. water hose 10.38

Carry Forward: $ 655.76

Catalogue VOLUME I Page 23

YARD

211121114861

2010

161221

YARD

31111132

31244331121211

EQUIPMENT: HAND TOOLS & ACCESSORIES

Carried Forward:

5/8" x 75' (16 mm x 22.5 m) rubber hose (steam generator water)Mechanic's dolly on casters (for lying on one's back, mobile)4" (100 mm) knifeEdging trowelSteel trowelsFuel funnel for kerosene1 1/2" (40 mm) derby brushHand-pump for kerosene (steam-curing)4" (100 mm) brushes for painting "gluvit" sealant100-watt lamp bulbs for trouble lightsLight bulbsPlasterer's edgerGalvanized pailsCoarse sponge floatsPlasterer's hawkSteel scraper blades (for removing excess mortar)Spirit level1/2" (13 mm) T-couplings for steam pipes1/2" (13 mm) close nipples for steam pipes80' x 1/2" (24 m x 13 mm) conduit for steam pipes

TOTAL

EQUIPMENT: WELDING & GAS-CUTTING EQUIPMENT

Electric Welding Machines, "AIRCO"-make, A.C. 225 amp. 230 volt150' (45 m) welding cable75' (25 m) No. 1 cable100' (30 m) extension cableWelder's HoodHood (hand-held)Electrode holdersWelding rod pouchesWelding ground clampsSpare welding tipSpare cutting tipsNo. 10 glasses for welders' masksNo. 10 plastics for welders' masksWelders' chipping hammersSteel wire brushesPair metal-working pliers"Harris" oxy-acetylene torchOxy-acetylene cylinders' dolly25' (10 m) extension to oxy-acetylene hoseOxy-acetylene brass hose connectorsWrench for oxy-acetylene cylindersBurning tip

$ 655.76

21.5114.642.401.05

12.200.520.267.47

16.741.854.383.48

51.6027.00

4.3018.007.230.460.30

18.50

$ 869.65

$ 280.5079.2548.7583.00

8.108.50

14.621.25

14.402.909.004.000.806.602.403.23

109.0036.9514.0019.802.754.50



YARD

1211

YARD

11111

YARD

1114

21

31126

EQUIPMENT: WELDING & GAS-CUTTING EQUIPMENT

Carried Forward:

Tip cleanerFlint lighters for cutting torchPair tinted goggles"Harris" circle-burner for cutting pipe

TOTAL

EQUIPMENT: POWER TOOLS

Radial saw, 10" (254 mm) diameter, 3450 rpm (used)Electric drill, 3/8" (10 mm), pistol-type, 1/3 hp, 11/5.5 ampElectric drill, 3/4" (20 mm), heavy dutyElectric hand-saw, 7 1/2" (190 mm) diameter, 2 hp and 4 bladesBench grinder, electric

TOTAL

EQUIPMENT: YARD EQUIPMENT RENTALS

Hydraulic Pipe Bender for 2" (50 mm) diameter pipeHydraulic Pipe Bender for 3/4" (20 mm) pipeTransit for setting up overhead support structureRolling scaffolding towers, tubular steel, 5' x 10' x 12' (1.5 m x 3 m x 3.6 m)

high (75 days)Gasoline-powered mortar mixers (2 days)Gasoline-powered Lincoln Welding Machine with accessories (14 days)(Above accessories include 1 electric angle-grinder)Electric vibrators, 1" (25 mm) heads, 7' (2.1 m) leads (2 days)Fork-lift truck, 3000 Ibs. (1000 kg) capacity,(2 days)Fork-lift for 2 hours to unload cement and sand palletsMalsbary Steam Generators @ 24 hours eachTemperature gauges for steam tent

$ 754.30

1.951.504.00

19.00

$ 780.75

$ 150.0039.49

141.2666.1451.98

$ 448.87

$ 20.403.683.68

104.5357.75

121.45

58.8034.7726.25

100.0030.00

TOTAL $ 561.39


YARD EXPENDABLE MATERIAL: LOFTING FLOOR CONSTRUCTION & LOFTING

6 Marking Pens for lofting1 Tube/Dispenser "Elmer's" White Wood Glue (for making battens)1 Packet chalk-line chalk1 Quart Spackle paste (wood-filler)5 Gallons mineral spirits1 Box rags1 9" (228 mm) roller tray (paint)1 9" (228 mm) extra handle5 9" (228 mm) paint rollers1 Paint roller extension handle

10 Ibs. (5 kg) galvanized finishing nails, 3d10 Ibs. (5 kg) galvanized finishing nails, 6d

TOTAL

YARD EXPENDABLE MATERIAL: YARD EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION

10 Ibs. (5 kg) 2 1/2" (63 mm) concrete nails8 1/4" x 1 1/2" (6 mm x 38 mm) square head anchor screws

44 1/4" x 1 3/4" (6 mm x 76 mm) square head anchor screws3 3/8" x 3" (10 mm x 76 mm) hex. bolts (for securing vise)

40 1/4" x 3" (6 mm x 76 mm) anchor bolts4 Anchor bolts1 Pkt. of nuts and bolts

TOTAL

YARD EXPENDABLE MATERIAL: SUNDRIES

10 Pair of work glovesFirst Aid supplies

10 Grinding wheels1 Metal stone for angle grinder

TOTAL

YARD MATERIAL: DIMENSIONAL LUMBER

2888 Ft. (660 m) 2" x 4" (50 mm x 100 mm) construction grade fir100 Ft. (30 m) 1" x 4" (25 mm x 100 mm) construction grade fir100 Ft. (30 m) 1" x 6" (25 mm x 150 mm) construction grade fir120 Ft. (36 m) 2" x 6" (50 mm x 150 mm) construction grade fir for "support

structure" base plate3 18 Ft. (5.4 m) 2" x 12" (50 mm x .300 mm) construction grade fir for work bench4 18 Ft. (5.4 m) 1" x 10" (25 mm x 254 mm) construction grade fir for work bench

$ 5.301.000.234.703.85

11.253.750.79

10.048.803.203.20

$ 56.11

$ 3.400.407.480.304.200.121.89

$ 17.79

$ 6.603.53

15.934.93

$ 30.99

$ 462.0813.2813.28

23.9419.4414.40



YARD MATERIAL: DIMENSIONAL LUMBER

Carried Forward:

140 Ft. 3/4" x 3/4" (20 mm x 20 mm) clear fir battens64 Sheets, 4' x 8' x 1/2" (600 mm x 2.4 m x 12 mm) A.C. exterior plywood for

lofting floor and benches

TOTAL

YARD MATERIAL: SUPPORT STRUCTURE STEEL

20 Ft. (6.3 m) lengths, 21/2" (63 mm) I.D. black steel pipe @ $0.72 per ft.10 Ft. (6 m) lengths, 6" (150 mm) I-beam (W6 @ 12) @ $13.0013 20 Ft. (6 m) lengths 3" (76 mm) channel (C3 @ 4.1) @ $10.652 20 Ft. (6 m) lengths 1/4" (6 mm) x 3" (76 mm) flat bar @ $10.151 1/4" x 4' x 8" (6 mm x 1.2 m x 200 mm) steel plate

100 1/4" x 1 1/2" (6 mm x 38 mm) lag screws for bottom of support structure4 20 Ft. (6 m) lengths 2" x 2" x 1/4" (50 mm x 50 mm x 6 mm) T-bar for

scaffolding planks6 20 Ft. (6 m) fairing battens 2" x 2" (50 mm x 50 mm)

72 Ft. (21.6 m) 1" x 3" (25 mm x 76 mm) lumber for ladders

TOTAL

YARD MATERIAL: OTHER MATERIALS

24 Hollow concrete blocks, 8" x 8" x 16" (200 mm x 200 mm x 400 mm) @ $0.45(for chocking blocks)

3 Rolls 16' (4.8 m) wide 4 mil plastic sheeting for steam tent

TOTAL

BOAT MATERIAL: HULL CONSTRUCTIONAL & REINFORCING STEEL

1600 20 Ft. x 1/4" (6 m x 6 mm) diameter smooth rebar (5.500 Ibs) @ $13.80140 20 Ft. x 1/2" (6 m x 13 mm) diameter deformed rebar (1870 Ibs.) @ $10.00

12 20 Ft. (6 m) lengths 1" x 1" x 1/8" (25 mm x 25 mm x 3 mm) T-bar (204 Ibs.)@ $12.60

20 20 Ft. (6 m) lengths of 1" x 1" x 1/8" (25 mm x 25 mm x 3 mm) T-bar30 20 Ft. (6 m) lengths 1/8" x 3" (3 mm x 76 mm) Flat bar (765 Ibs.) @ $10.8530 20 Ft. (6 m) lengths 1/8" x 11/2" (3 mm x 38 mm) Flat bar (378 Ibs.) @ $11.75

$ 546.42

5.88

501.76

$1054.06

$ 302.40314.40113.5310.3534.07

4.25

89.6012.006.05

$ 917.00

$ 10.8046.00

$ 56.80

$ 759.00187.00

25.7035.3676.0546.28

Carry Forward: $1129.39


BOAT MATERIAL: HULL CONSTRUCTIONAL & REINFORCING STEEL

Carried Forward: $1129.39

1 20 Ft. (6 m) lengths 1/8" x 1/8" (3 mm x 32 mm) Flat bar (for scuppers)(11 Ibs. @ $13.15) 1.45

4 20 Ft. (6 m) lengths, 1/8" x 1" x 1" (3 mm x 25 mm x 25 mm) angle iron(64 Ibs.) @ $10.15 6.50

10 Ft. 5" (127 mm) I.D. Schedule 40 pipe (stern and rudder tubes) @ $2.3750 perft. (and 2.50 cutting charge) 26.25

24 Pieces, per cut, No. 10 gauge sheet 6" x 8" (152 mm x 203 mm) for deckventilator coamings 11.96

TOTAL $1175.55

BOAT MATERIAL: WELDING SUPPLIES

5 Cylinders of Oxygen $ 43.005 Cylinders of Acetylene 45.10

100 Ibs. (50 kg) No. 6011 1/8" (3 mm) welding rod 30.00150 Ibs. (75 kg) No. 70143/32" (2 mm) welding rod 45.30

50 Ibs. (25 kg) No. 6011 5/32" (4 mm) welding rods for deck beams 17.06100 Ibs. (50 kg) No. 7014 1/8" (3 mm) welding rod 27.10

7 Pairs welders' long leather gloves 30.002 Soapstone holders 1.30

12 Boxes of soapstones 1.701 Set leather welding sleeves 9.151 Box renewal flints for oxy-acetylene torch 0.715 Gallons gasoline for rented welding machine 1.40

(N.B. A small portion of these welding supply TOTAL $ 251,82costs are applicable to the creation of the over-head support structure.)

BOAT MATERIAL: STAPLES & TIE WIRE

10,000 3/4" (19 mm) galvanized hog ring staples (Power-Line Sales, Inc.) $ 13.10125 Ibs. (63 kg) 1/2" (13 mm) galvanized hog ring staples (Fisheries Supply

Company) 55.5630,000 1/2" (13 mm) hog rings (Power-Line Sales, Inc.) 34.80

18 Rolls of tie wire @ $3.75 37.453 Boxes of 1000 5/16" x 5/8" (8 mm x 16 mm) staples 18.802 Boxes of 3/8" (9 mm) staples No. 5012 1.402 Boxes of 3/8" (9 mm) staples No. 5019 1.904 Boxes of 3/8" (9 mm) staples 3.301 Box of 8p. nails, galvanized, wide head (for screwing deck-head lining) 12.00

10 Ibs. (5 kg) 16d. galvanized nails 3.40

TOTAL $ 181.71


BOAT MATERIAL: MESH

60 Rolls 1" x 20" (25 mm x 500 mm) gauge galvanized hexagonal mesh (galvanizedafter weave) @ $20.52 $1231.20

BOAT MATERIAL: DECKHEAD LINING MATERIALS

686 Ft. (205 m) of 1" x 10" (25 mm x 250 mm) @ $0.20 dressed cedar tongueand groove planking @ $0.20 $ 137.20

15 Sheets of 2" x 48" x 144" (50 mm x 1.2 m x 3.6 m) Polyurethane foaminsulation material 345.60

1 Roll 16' (4.8 m) wide 4 mil plastic sheeting 13.30

TOTAL $ 496.10

BOAT MATERIAL: SAND

280 Bags, 100 (50 kg) No. 1 fine graded sand $ 356.0042 Bags, 100 (50 kg) No. E1-70 Del Monte extra fine sand 64.70

TOTAL $ 420.70

BOAT MATERIAL: CEMENT

170 Bags, 94 Ibs. (47 kg) Lone Star, Type I Cement $ 387.00

BOAT MATERIAL: PLASTERING SERVICES

For services of 16 professional plasterers, total 144 hours, including taxes, mixers,wheelbarrow and equipment rental $1673.55

BOAT MATERIAL: BOAT FITTINGS & FASTENINGS

8 12" (300 mm) galvanized deck cleats $ 24.0020 2 1/2" x 3/8" (63 mm x 10 mm) galvanized eye bolts 10.5616 4 1/2" x 3/8" (114 mm x 10mm) galvanized bolts for cleats 2.0212 5/8" x 6" (16 mm x 152 mm) galvanized bolts - rudder stock housing 5.2128 5/8" x 8" (16 mm x 203 mm) galvanized bolts-engine beds 17.1240 5/8" 916 mm) galvanized washers 1.5650 3/8" (10 mm) galvanized washers 0.42

2 Ft. (600 mm) gasket material for plates above rudder stock housings 1.58Galvanizing charge on scupper screeds 3.50

TOTAL $ 65.97

BOAT MATERIAL: KEROSENE

220 Gallons of Kerosene used for steam curing $ 77.00


BOAT MATERIAL: MESH

60 Rolls 1" x 20" (25 mm x 500 mm) gauge galvanized hexagonal mesh (galvanizedafter weave) @ $20.52 $1231.20

BOAT MATERIAL: DECKHEAD LINING MATERIALS

686 Ft. (205 m) of 1" x 10" (25 mm x 250 mm) @ $0.20 dressed cedar tongueand groove planking @ $0.20 $ 137.20

15 Sheets of 2" x 48" x 144" (50 mm x 1.2 m x 3.6 m) Polyurethane foaminsulation material 345.60

1 Roll 16' (4.8 m) wide 4 mil plastic sheeting 13.30

TOTAL $ 496.10

BOAT MATERIAL: SAND

280 Bags, 100 (50 kg) No. 1 fine graded sand $ 356.0042 Bags, 100 (50 kg) No. E1-70 Del Monte extra fine sand 64.70

TOTAL $ 420.70

BOAT MATERIAL: CEMENT

170 Bags, 94 Ibs. (47 kg) Lone Star, Type I Cement $ 387.00

BOAT MATERIAL: PLASTERING SERVICES

For services of 16 professional plasterers, total 144 hours, including taxes, mixers,wheelbarrow and equipment rental $1673.55

BOAT MATERIAL: BOAT FITTINGS & FASTENINGS

8 12" (300 mm) galvanized deck cleats $ 24.0020 2 1/2" x 3/8" (63 mm x 10 mm) galvanized eye bolts 10.5616 41/2" x 3/8" (114 mm x 10mm) galvanized bolts for cleats 2.0212 5/8" x 6" (16 mm x 152 mm) galvanized bolts - rudder stock housing 5.2128 5/8" x 8" (16 mm x 203 mm) galvanized bolts-engine beds 17.1240 5/8" 916 mm) galvanized washers 1.5650 3/8" (10 mm) galvanized washers 0.42

2 Ft. (600 mm) gasket material for plates above rudder stock housings 1.58Galvanizing charge on scupper screeds 3.50

TOTAL $ 65.97

BOAT MATERIAL: KEROSENE

220 Gallons of Kerosene used for steam curing $ 77.00

CATALOGUE VOLUME I Page 29

BOAT MATERIAL: PAINTS & COMPOUNDS

1 Gallon Red Lead Paint (Deck Beams) $ 7.175 Gallons Red Lead Paint (Deck Beams & Deckhead) 35.055 Gallons Thinner for above 4.452 Quarts Weldwood White Glue 3.072 Cartridges of Thiokol Compound 6.601 Bundle of Oakum 3.45

10 Gallons "Gluvit" Epoxy Sealant 117.00

TOTAL $ 176.79

SUMMARY OF CATALOGUE

YARD EQUIPMENT

Hand Tools and Accessories $ 869.65Welding and Gas-Cutting Equipment 780.75Power Tools 448.87Yard Equipment Rentals 561.39

$2660.66

YARD EXPENDABLE MATERIAL

Lofting Floor Construction and Lofting $ 56.11Yard Equipment Installation 17.79Sundries 30.99

$ 104.89

YARD MATERIAL

Dimensional Lumber $1054.06Support Structure Steel 917.00Other Materials 56.80

$2027.86

BOAT MATERIAL

Hull Constructional and Reinforcing Steel $1175.55Welding Supplies 251.82Staples and Tie Wire 181.71

Mesh 1231.20Deckhead Lining Materials 496.10

Sand 420.70Cement 387.00Plastering Services 1673.55Boat Fittings and Fastenings 65.97

Kerosene 77.00Paints and Compounds 176.79

$6137.39

Current Prices - Seattle, Washington, USA (1972) TOTAL $10930.80

Page 30 VOLUME I CONSTRUCTION SCHEDULE FOR VESSEL

CONSTRUCTION SCHEDULE for vessel: 65-ft. Power Boat STAGE

Task DescriptionManpower

Class.EstimatedMan-Hours

ActualMan-Hours NOTES

1

DateCom pi.

JOB NO. 1 - Making Hull Frames

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

Construct LoftingFloor

Sand and Paint LoftingFloor Surface

Lay Out Lofting Grid

Lay Out Hull Profile

Lay Out Hull Sections

Lay Out Water Lines& Sheering Plan View

Set Up Hull FrameFrame BendingBench

Drive Nails AlongLofting FloorStation Lines

Cut Rods for HullFrames

Bend Hull Framesin Pairs

Mark Reference Lineson Hull Frames

Store Hull Frames

7L 7C

4P

See below

See below

See below

33 D33C

6C

10C

4W

47W

5L

1L

14

4

See below

See below

See below

66

6

10

4

47

5

1

Catalogue: LoftingFloor Constructionand lofting.

Dimensional lumber,Power tools, Handtools & accessories

Catalogue: Hull Con-structional & Reinforc-ing Steel

Welding & Gas CuttingequipmentWelding Supplies

Yard EquipmentInstallation & Over-head Support

NOTE: For manpower classification see page 42.

CONSTRUCTION SCHEDULE FOR VESSEL VOLUME I Page 31

CONSTRUCTfON SCHEDULE for vessel: 65-ft. Power Boat


Class.EstimatedMan- Hours

ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 1

NOTESDate

Compl.

JOB NO. 2 - Making Deck Beams

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

Make Deck BeamWelding Jig

Cut Flat Bar ofDeck Beams

Welding Deck Beamsin Jig

Cut Master Pattern forDeck Beam

Make Deck BeamBending Jig

Shaping Deck Beams

Clean and PrimeDeck Beams

Mark Center andButtock Lines onBeams

2W

3W

22W

1C

1W

12L

8L 7P

4D

2

3

22

1

1

12

13

4

JOB NO. 3 — Assemble Frames, Deck Beams and Suspension Rods

1

2

3

Welding Hull Framesin place

Mark Off DeckBeams

Cut & Weld Deck Beamin place

12W

4D

18W

12

4

18

Catalogue: MeshStaples & Tie Wire


CONSTRUCTION SCHEDULE for vessel: 65-ft. Power Boat

Task

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

Description

Make Deck KneeBending Jig

Weld Deck Knee inplace

Weld Suspension Rodsto Hull Frames

Weld AthwartshipBraces

Weld BulwarkSupports

Weld KeelSections

Weld Rod Reinforcingto Bulkheads

Weld Webs to HullFrames

Fasten Mesh to BulkheadsWebs and Bulwarks

ManpowerClass.

3W

16W

12W

12W

20W

16W

24W

8W

42L

EstimatedMan-Hours

3

16

12

12

20

16

24

8

42

ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 1

NOTESDate

Compl.

JOB NO. 4 - Erect Overhead Support Structure

1

2

3

Measure Off Base

Layout and FastenWooden Base Plates

Bolt Piping Base Plateto Wooden BasePlate

2D

18C8L

6L

2

16

6

Catalogue: SupportStructure Steel

Yard EquipmentRentals



Task

4

5

6

7

8

9

Description

Prepare PipingSupports andBraces

Weld Overhead SupportFrames

Preparations for Erectionof Support Frames

Erect Overhead SupportStructure

Align and Weld Over-head Structure

Weld Channel toSupport Structure atButtock No. 2 Lines

ManpowerClass.

5W

16W

3W

8D 22L

16W

6W

EstimatedMan-Hours

5

16

3

30

16

6

ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 1

NOTESDate

Compl.

JOB NO. 5 — Establish Base Lines and Support Lines

1

2

3

4

Mark Center Line andButtock No. 2 Lines

Mark Water Line

String Water LineAround 4 Corners ofStructure

String Vertical CenterLine and ButtocksNo. 2 Lines

1/2 D

3D

1/2 D

1/2 D

0.50

3

0.50

0.50

/

JOB NO. 6 - Make Stem Piece

1 Measure and CutStem Piece Rod

1/2 W 0.50



Task

2

Description

Bend Rod to Shapeof Stem Piece

ManpowerClass.

3W

EstimatedMan-Hours

3

ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 1

NOTESDate

Com pi.

JOB NO. 7 - Suspend Frames

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

Cut Upper SuspensionRods to Size

Weld Upper SuspensionRods to Hull Frames

Mark Hull FramePosition on Longitudi-nal Girders

Weld First Hull Frameto Support Structure

Weld Remaining HullFrames to SupportStructure

Make Alignment Framefor Bow Hull Frames

Plumb One Hull Frameand Brace

Plumb Remaining HullFrames and Brace

Temporarily Brace HullFrames to SupportStructure Sides

Weld Stem-Piece toBow Frames

Erect ScaffoldingAround Hull

2W

16W

1D

1W

8D 16L26W

8W

1W

8D 10W

12W

4W

12W

2

16

1

1

50

8

1

18

12

4

12


CONSTRUCTION SCHEDULE for vessel:


Class.

65-ft. Power Boat

EstimatedMan-Hours

ActualMan-Hours

STAGE

NOTES

2

DateCompl.

JOB NO. 2 - Prepare Deckhead Lining

1

2

3

4

5

6

Mark Deck Apertures

Making LongitudinalBeam for DeckApertures

Weld Deck ApertureBeams in Place

Make Deck VentilatorCoamings

Weld Deckhead LiningSupports

Clean and Prime DeckSteelwork

4D

4W

12W

4W

6W

4P

4

4

12

4

6

4

Catalogue: Deckheadining materials

JOB NO. 3 - Lay Deckhead Linings

1

2

3

4

5

Fitting WoodenDeckhead Planks

Installing DeckVentilator

Paint DeckheadPlanking

Fitting InsulationMaterial

Laying Hardboard PanelsAbove DeckheadInsulation Material

30C

2C

5P

22C

30C

30

2

5

22

30





ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 2

NOTESDate

Compl.

JOB NO. 4 - Lay Mesh and Rods on Deck

1

2

3

Laying First FourLayers of Mesh onDeck

Weld LongitudinalReinforcing Rods overDeck Beams

Weld AthwartshipReinforcing RodsAbove

50 L

36W

3OW

50

36

30

JOB NO. 5 - Fair Bulwarks and Hull

1

2

3

4

5

6

Apply BulwarksScreed

Weld BulwarksLongitudinal Rod

Bend BulwarksSheer Rods

Fair Bulwarks andWeld Sheer Rods inPlace

Fair Hull SteelReinforcing

Weld Deck SteelReinforcing to HullFramework

16W 4D

6W

8W

45W

8W3OL 16D

26W

20

6

8

45

54

26

Catalogue: YardEquipment Rental

JOB NO. 6 — Hatch Coaming and Scuppers

1 Fabricate HatchCoaming Screeds

7W 7





ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 1

NOTESDate

Compl.

JOB NO. 8 - Check Hull and Deck Exterior for Fairness

1

2

3

4

5

6

Check Hull Exteriorfor Fairness

Check Deck Exteriorfor Fairness

Stem and KeelReinforcing

Keel DeadwoodReinforcing

Weld LongitudinalSpacer Rods toHull Frames

Weld Transom inPlace

8W 8D4L

3W 3D

18W

10W

28W

6W

20

6

18

10

28

6

Frames suspended in preparation for fairing





ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 2

NOTESDate

Com pi.

JOB NO. 1 - Apply Rods and Mesh

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

Make Mesh Folding andCutting Bends

Fold and Cut Mesh

Apply First Four Layersof Mesh to Hull

Apply Mesh toTransom

Fasten LongitudinalReinforcing RodsAbove the Mesh

Remove UnderlyingSpacer Rods andReplace with Longitudi-nal Rods Overlying theMesh

Weld Vertical RodReinforcing 23" Centers

Make Starter RodJig

Make Starter Rods

Weld Starter RodsAlong Diagonal "D"Line

Weld Hull ReinforcingRods at Stern, Keeland Transom

Staple Interior Meshto Longitudinal Rods

5C

28 L

96 L

7L

100L

3OL

180W

2W

2L

16W

25W

10L

5

28

96

7

100

30

180

2

2

16

25

10



Task

2

3

4

Description

Weld Hatch CoamingReinforcings inPlace

Make Scuppers

Weld Scuppers inPlace

ManpowerClass.

3OW

6W

6W

EstimatedMan-Hours

30

6

6

ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 2

NOTESDate

Compl.

JOB NO. 7 - Mesh Deck, Coamings and Bulwarks

1

2

Laying Four Layers ofMesh Above Deck Rein-forcing Rods

Mesh Coaming andBulwarks

70L

60 L

70

60

JOB NO. 8 - Stringers and Sole Supports

1

2

3

4

5

Mark Sole SupportPositions

Weld Sole SupportStarter Rods

Weld Sole SupportScreeds

Weld Diagonal "D"Stringer

Mesh Sole Supportsand Diagonal "D"Stringers

5D

8W

16W

18W

26 L

5

8

16

18

26

JOB NO. 9 - Engine Beds and Stern Tubes

1 Mark Engine BedPositions

6D 6



Task

2

3

4

5

6

7

Description

Fabricate Engine BedScreeds

Install Engine BedReinforcing

Fabricate Stern Tubes

Prepare Stern TubeAlignment Sights

Align and Weld SternTubes in Place

Mesh Engine Beds andStern Tubes

ManpowerClass.

6W

40W

6W

6D

8W

28 L

EstimatedMan-Hours

6

40

6

6

8

28

ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 2

NOTESDate

Compl.

JOB NO. 10 - Install Rudder Stuffing Box Supports

1

2

3

4

Prepare Rudder StuffingBox Housings

Mark Rudder StuffingBox Positions

Install Rudder StuffingBox Housings andFabricate Supports

Mesh Rudder StuffingBox Supports

10W

4D

14W

20 L

10

4

14

20

JOB NO. 11 - Apply Hull Exterior Mesh

1 Modify Hull ExternalSupports and Braces

8W 8



Task

2

3

Description

Apply Outer Layers ofMesh to Hull

Fairing, Cleaning andFinal Inspection ofMesh

ManpowerClass.

240 L

8D 42L

65-ft. Power Boat

EstimatedMan-Hours

240

50

ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 2

NOTESDate

Compl.

Crew assembled in preparation for plastering




Class.

65-ft. Power Boat

EstimatedMan-Hours

ActualMan-Hours

STAGE 3

NOTESDate

Compl.

JOB NO. 1 - Plastering and Steam Curing

1

2

3

4

5

Preparations forPlastering

Plastering Day

Preparations for SteamCuring

Steam Curing

Second Phase Plastering

18C

144 PA288 L

15C 15L

24 L

20PA 40L

18

375

30

24

60

Catalogue: Sand andCement

Plastering Services

Kerosene — YardEquipment Rentals

Plastering Services

NOTE: For Stage 3, see Volume II.

SUMMARY OF LABOR

Key to "Manpower Classification" in the Construction Schedule:

"C" - Carpenter

"W" - Welder

"D" — Draftsman/Engineer

"L" — Laborer (or helper)

"P" - Painter

"PA" - Plasterer

Note, therefore, that an entry in the "Manpower Class." column of the Construction Schedule shown,for example, as "18 C" signifies an estimate of 18 hours of carpentry work. This could also be inter-preted as 6 hours work by 3 carpenters, depending, of course, upon the manpower resources which theyard manager has at his disposal and how he wishes to apply it.

Man-Hours Utilized by Job Classification:

The following is a summary of man-hours utilized in the construction of the 65-ft. (19.5 m) powerboat hull. The summary is by job classification and covers Stages 1, 2 and 3 of construction

"W "D" "L" "P" "PA"

Man-Hours: 197 1041.5 99.5 1337 20 164

Total man-hours utilized in the construction of the hull through to completion of Stage 3: 2,859

PRODUCTION PLANNING CHART VOLUME I Page 43

MASTER CONSTRUCTION SCHEDULE

Production Line Planning for Fleet Production:

As was mentioned in the introduction tothis section, the construction schedule containsthe necessary elements from which to compilea Master Construction Schedule which couldproject, at any given time, the varying stagesof construction of a fleet of one-designvessels.

The Master Construction Schedule wouldbe compiled in advance of production. Itwould project labor and equipment costs andprogram the flow of construction materialsand boat equipment into the yard. Althoughthis schedule would provide an overall programfor the series production of a fleet of vessels,yet, for a realistic day-to-day interpretation bythe men of the yard, a more flexible instrumentis needed, its component information constantlyrevised and its projections brought up-to-date.

For this purpose a five-day projection wouldbe compiled at the end of each week. A samplesheet of this five-day projection on a ten-vesselproduction line entitled "Production PlanningChart" is included on this page. Essential infor-mation is, of course, drawn from the MasterConstruction Schedule and from progressreports to date. The value of this up-to-the-minute information is that an extremely realisticprojection can be made for the five workingdays ahead.

Latest copies of the "Production PlanningChart" would be circulated among the foremanon the yard, purchasing department, stores, andthe tool room.

Page 44 VOLUME I

DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTING

A 65-FOOT POWER BOAT HULL

STAGE 1 -JOB 1 VOLUME I Page 45

STAGE 1 - JOB 1MAKING HULL FRAMES

The hull of the vessel is drawn to full size,in plan section and in profile, on the loftingfloor. For economy of space the hull bodylines, which are symmetrical, are shownonly in half-section. It is from these bodylines, called "stations," that the shape of thehull frames is obtained.

The material the hull frames are madeof is 1/2-inch (13 mm) diameter "deformed,"mild steel reinforcing rod. It is a relatively softrod, easy to curve into the shapes shown by thestations on the lofting floor. As only one half-section of a station is drawn, it is convenientto curve two lengths of rod during the sameoperation. This pair of curved rods formsone complete hull frame.

TASK 1 - Constructing the Loft Floor

The materials to be used are 2" x 4" (45mm x 90 mm) construction grade timbers and1/2-inch (13 mm) 4' x 8' (1,220 mm x 2,440mm) plywood sheets of the type termed "goodone side." A rectangular 2" x 4" (45 mm x90 mm) framing is made for the floor, 68 feet(20.6 m) long and 16 feet (4.5 m) wide. Withinthis framing 2" x 4" (45 mm x 90 mm) floorsupports are required for taking the weight ofpersonnel using the floor. Plywood 1/2 inch(13 mm) thick is necessary for the flooringas plywood thinner than 1/2 inch (13 mm) willnot provide an adequate foundation for theframe-shaping nails which will be driven intoit later.

Care must be taken to see that the floorframing is kept level and absolutely rectangular.The 4' x 8' (1,220 mm x 2,440 mm) plywoodsheets are nailed down to this framing. A totalof 34 sheets are required to cover the framing.The points to observe here are that the goodside of the plywood sheets is nailed uppermost,and that all edges match exactly to form one,smooth level floor.

Four supports to each sheet

One-half inch plywood carefully laid

All plywood edges match exactly

Page 46 Volume I STAGE 1 -JOB1

A non-gloss paint for the lofting floor

Laying out the lofting grid

TASK 2 — Sanding and Painting Lofting Floor

Sand down any imperfections on the ply-wood surface or edges. Use a long-handled paintroller. Paint the lofting floor with a non-glosswhite acrylic paint. Four gallons (15.16 I) willbe needed.

TASK 3 - Layout the Lofting Grid

Two drawings need to be spread out closeby for frequent consultation. One is entitled,Lines & Offsets, the other, Corrected Table ofOffsets. A reel-type chalk-line and a set of good,smooth, flexible wooden battens are requiredfor this work. The recommended batten sizesare as follows:

2 1" x 1" x 70' (25.4 mm x 25.4 mmx 21.2 m)

2 1" x 1" x 35' ' (25.4 mm x 25.4 mmx 10.6 m)

2 1/2" x 1/2" x 16' ' (12 .7 mm x 12.7mm x 4.5 m)

2 1/4" x 1/2" x 16' (6.3 mm x 12.7mm x 4.5 m)

2 1/4" x 1/4" x 8 '(6.3 mm x 6.3 mmx 2.25 m)

The following numbered series of figuresillustrates how to proceed with laying out thelofting grid.

STAGE 1 - J O B 1 VOLUME I Page 47

BASE LINE

Draw the base line first. Start by measuring20" (508.0 mm) up from the bottom edge ofof the lofting floor on both sides of the frameand drive nails in at these two points. Stretch achalk-line taut between two nails. At the centerpoint of the chalk-line take it carefully betweenforefinger and thumb, lift it about six inches (152mm) off the lofting floor, then allow it to snapdown smartly. The chalk-line will leave a per-fectly straight line across the floor, providing abase line for all remaining measurements. Usinga straight batten and a waterproof felt pen, inkin the base line for permanence. Write "BASELINE" beneath it. Remove the nails.

FIGURE 13-Waterlines

The waterlines are shown as the horizontallines extending across the drawing Lines andOffsets (refer to Figure 1). The drawing statesthat these lines are 300 mm (11.81 in.) apart.Starting at the base line measure up every 300mm (11.81 in.) on both sides of the loftingfloor and drive in nails at these points. In thesame way as the base line was marked out,proceed with the waterlines. Check that eachwaterline runs perfectly parallel with the baseline before inking. Mark each waterline atboth ends with its appropriate number asshown on the Lines Drawing (Figure 1).

Figure 13. WATERLINES. All run parallel with the BASE LINE

FIGURE 14 - Station Lines

The station lines run vertically over the LinesDrawing. The drawing states that these stationlines are to be one meter apart. These stationlines will often represent the position of an actualhull frame but not necessarily so. In this casethe bow and stern sections of the hull requirethe frames to be closer together than in themidships section in order to achieve moreaccurate faring. Consequently, the distancebetween stations is halved at the bow andstern of the coastal raider.

The first step is to establish an exact per-pendicular line at the center of the base line.This perpendicular must be cross-checked forexactitude as the vertical station lines will leadoff parallel to it on both sides (fore and aft)at one meter spacings.

The Lines Drawing will show which stationlines require to be spaced at 50 cms (19.59 in.)in order to conform to the positions of thefuture bow and stern hull frames. Mark thestation lines into the lofting floor in the sameway as the preceding lines and number them asshown in the Lines Drawing (Figure 1).

Page 48 VOLUME I STAGE 1 -JOB1

FIGURE 15 - Buttock Lines

If a hull could be cut in neat parallel slicesright down its full length, the Buttock Lines onthe drawing would represent these cuts. Withthe hull viewed in section, the Buttock Lines areshown running parallel to the vertical CenterLine. Mark out and number the Buttock Linesusing the measurements shown on the LinesDrawings (Figure 1) outwards from the CenterLine. Complete in the same way as the pre-ceding lines.

With the hull viewed full length, use thebase line as hull center line. Mark out and num-ber at both ends the buttock lines using thesame measurements as were used for buttocklines measured from vertical center line.

Figure 15. BUTTOCK LINES. Measure off from the LINES DRAWINGS

Figure 14. STATION LINES. Perpendicular to the BASE and WATER LINES


FIGURE 16- Diagonal Lines

Like the Water Lines and the ButtockLines the Diagonal Lines serve to representthe shape of the hull transferred to two-dimensional view. Whereas the LinesDrawing also shows the Diagonal Lines inplan view, the lofting floor will only showthe diagonals running through the hull

section, or "body plan" as it is sometimes called.Draw out the Diagonals on the lofting floor.Number the Diagonals to port and starboardas shown in the Lines Drawing (Figure 1).

The lofting grid is now ready for mark-ing in the shape of the hull itself.

Figure 16. DIAGONAL LINES. Final stage in the preparation of the LOFTING GRID

TASK 4 - Lay Out Hull Profile

FIGURE 17

The profile of the hull can now be markedout. The essential measurements for taking offthe profile from the Lines Drawing and trans-ferring it to full size on the lofting floor can beread in the Corrected Table of Offsets (see Fig-ure 2). Start with the rail cap height measure-ments from the Base Line, proceed to the SheerLine marking the deck height from Base Line,and then mark the keel, stem and transom pro-files. Where measured off and marked — drivein a nail. Inevitably, as the batten is laid alongthe nails, some discrepancies in the nail positionswill be found. This is where the skill of theloftsman comes into play. Some nails willrequire further positioning, and the resultingcurve drawn along the batten will be slightly

modified. But profile modifications (indeed,any line modifications throughout the wholelofting job) must never be allowed to "pushout" complementary dimensional measure-ments in the lofting. That is to say, if the railcap sheer appears too exaggerated amidshipsto the eye, be careful not to adjust the midshipsection station rail cap heights correspondinglyhigh. The skilled loftsman always workstowards the happy median between the twoconflicting measurements as they appear tohim on the floor.

The loftsman using the Corrected Tableof Offsets (Figure 2) which accompanies thisprogram should encounter little discrepancyin his lofting as the corrections to this tablewere made from a full-size lofting.

Page 50 VOLUME I STAGE 1 - J O B 1

Figure 17. HULL PROFILE. Here a "foreshortened" profile has been drawn by reducing full-size stationspacings by half

TASK 5 - Lay Out Hull Sections

FIGURE 18

The Lines Drawing shows the hull sectionsin half-breadths. For the sake of economy, theforward hull half-sections are shown portsideview on the righthand side of the center line,and aft hull half-sections are shown portsideview on the lefthand side of the center line.Which, essentially, is all that is required forour purpose.

At this stage of the laying out it is wise tofollow a skilled loftsman's procedure. Viewed insection, this hull contains 38 stations, the linesof their individual curves lying closely together

on the Lines Drawing. Therefore, take everyalternate station in the midship section (butnot at bow and stern) in this order: StationNo. 0, No. 2, No. 4, No. 6, No. 10, No. 14, toNo. 18 (which is the full midship section) anddraw these out on the lofting floor in the samemanner prescribed for the hull profiles inTask 4.

Proceed next to Task No. 6, the layingdown of water lines in plan view but, in thiscase, measure off half of the total number ofthe water lines as they strike at the hull sectionsfor Station Nos. 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 12, 16 and 18. Byestablishing a smooth curve on these waterlines, an accurate job can be made with correctingthe stations already drawn out on the floor.

Figure 18. HULL SECTIONS. Drawn to full-size on the lofting floor.


TASK 6 - Lay Out Water Lines and Sheer inPlan View

FIGURE 19

As explained, Task No. 5 has alreadyintruded on this operation. Complete the laying

out of the remaining hull sections of Task 5 andcomplete the remaining water lines in planview correcting both water line, sheer andhull stations in the process. Finally, ink thelines and number them, removing all nails asbefore. This completes the lofting operation.

Figure 19. WATER LINES AND SHEER IN PLAN VIEW. Here drawn foreshortened on the Lofting Floor

(Above) Hull Profile being lofted from theLines Drawing and the Table ofOffsets

(Right) The center of the Lofting Floor showingthe lofting grid prepared


Lofting floor close-up with lines inked in.

Lofting floor long shot. Note battens.

Hull frame bending jig showing outer supportsfor the rod.

TASK 7 - Set Up Hull Frame Bending Bench

The hull frame bending bench is set upclose to the lofting floor. It is made as follows:Cut a piece six inches square (152.4 mm) of1/4-inch (6.35 mm) mild steel plate. Weld twothree-inch lengths (76.2 mm) of 1/2-inch (12.7mm) diameter rod upright to the center of theplate, spaced one inch (25.4 mm) apart. Drill3/8-inch (9.53 mm) diameter bolt holes ateach corner of the plate.

Construct from 2" x 4" (45 mm x 90 mm)timbers a stoutly braced bench; 36 inches(914.4 mm) high, with a top 12 inches (304.8mm) square. Bolt the prepared steel platesecurely to the bench top. (Refer to F igure 20.)

Hull frame bending jig in use.


This bench will be found to be at a con-venient height for handling the 1/2-inch (12.7mm) diameter rod which is to be used for mak-ing the hull frames. The rod will be pushedbetween the two upright pieces of rod weldedto the plate and, every two inches (50.8 mm)along its length, pressure will be applied so asto induce a gentle lateral curve to the rod. Itis important that the rod maintains a true,lateral curve. That it will lie flat whenplaced on the floor. To facilitate this opera-tion construct additional supports to the sameheight as the bending bench. The accompany-ing photographs best illustrate how this isdone.

TASK 8 - Drive Nails Along Lofting FloorStation Lines

Select an easy curve station to begin work-ing with. Drive 2 1/2-inch (63.5 mm) commonnails at two-inch (50.8 mm) centers for the fulllength of the lofting floor station line. Leavethe nails standing upright at least two inches(50.8 mm) above the lofting floor. Place thesenails at the cap rail mark in such a way as toform a dead stop "pocket" for the 1/2-inch(12.7 mm) diameter rod to run into.

TASK 9 - Cut Rods for Hull Frames

Take a flexible batten and bend it hardagainst the rails describing the station shapeon the lofting floor. Mark the batten with thecorrect length of the station. Transfer this mea-surement to the 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diametersteel rod and add six (152.4 mm) inches excess.Place the rod in a pipe vise. Cut with boltcutters or an oxy-acetylene torch. Cut a secondlength of rod for the matching hull frame.

TASK 10- Bend Hull Frames

The cut length of rod may now be workedthrough the jig on the hull frame bending bench.Remove the rod after every 12 inches (304.8 mm)or 18 inches (457.2 mm) length of bending andplace it hard against the nails at the cap rail markand against those describing the station curve onthe lofting floor. Rectify the curve again in the

Driving nails along station lines on lofting floor.

Nail "pocket" for making a dead stop for thehull frame rod on the lofting floor.

jig. Proceed in this way throughout the completelength of the rod, right down to the keel, untilit is shaped exactly as the station inked on thelofting floor. Remember that the hull framemust lie perfectly flat when its shaping is com-pleted. On the final check for shape and flat-ness mark the correct length of the hull frameat the point it strikes the center line at thekeel. Cut off the excess rod.

Proceed with bending the matching hullframe in the same manner. Cut off excess rodat the keel.


TASK 11 - Mark Reference Lines on HullFrame

Lay each frame in turn against the nails onthe lofting floor and carefully mark the requiredreferences onto the steel rod with a hack-saw.The required reference marks are:

1. All Water Lines

2. Diagonal "D"

3. Buttock Line No. 2

4. Deck Sheer Line

Note that these lightly sawn marks must accom-pany the "run" of the lines as drawn on thelofting floor.

TASK 12 - Store Hull Frames in Pairs

Lay the marked pair of hull frames to-gether on a flat surface in an area where theywill not be disturbed until required. Succeed-ing pairs of hull frames should be arranged inthe proper sequence to the first pair so as toavoid confusion later.

Remove the nails from the completed sta-tion on the lofting floor and drive them along thenext station lines as described in Task 8. Pro-ceed through Tasks 9, 10, 11 and 12 until allthe hull frame pairs are prepared.

Bending the hull frame rods.

Check hull frame shape in lofting floor nailpattern. Hack-saw cuts the reference marks.


JOB 2 - MAKING UP DECK BEAMS

TASK 1 - Deck Beam Welding Jig

The deck beams are made from two piecesof steel flat bar, welded lengthwise to each otherin the sectional form of a "T." The inverted"T"-shaped deck beam serves additional pur-poses to its principal ones of supporting thedeck and stiffening the hull at the beam. Thebottom lip of the inverted "T" provides asecure ledge for supporting a wood deckheadlining. This lining, in turn, supports the poly-urethane insulation material which lies sand-wiched beneath the ferro-cement deck. Tofacilitate the welding of these two flat bars,a simple jig is to be made in the followingmanner:

Cut a 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) thick base plate,6" x 12" (152.4 mm x 304.8 mm). Drill 3/8-inch (9.5 mm) diameter bolt holes at the fourcorners. Cut two right-angle triangle pieces of1/4-inch (6.3 mm) plate, 3" x 3" (76.2 mm x76.2 mm). Weld the two triangles upright toone side of the base plate as shown in theupper right-hand photo. (Refer to Figure 21.)

A gap of 3/16 inch (4.7 mm) is left be-tween and below the two opposing triangularpieces forming an inverted "T" shape. Thetwo pieces of 3/16-inch (4.7 mm) steel flat barwhich form the deck beam are fed through thisinverted "T" aperture in the jig and welded atthree-inch centers on alternate sides.

Bolt the completed jig to the end of a36-inch (914.4 mm) high workbench longenough to support the 20-ft. (5.7 m) lengthsof flat bar. Leave sufficient space clear at theend of the bench for the welded "T" beam tobe fed outwards from the jig.

Simple inverted "T" jig for deck beams.

Laying out flat bar for deck beams.

Inserting flat bar Into the jig.

Page 56 VOLUME I STAGE 1 -JOB 2

Deck beam flat bar in the jig.

Welding deck beam in the jig.

TASK 2 - Cut Flat Bar to Approximate Lengthsof Deck Beam

Measure and mark the 1/8" x 1-1/2" (3.17mm x 38.1 mm) and 1/8" x 3" (3.17 mm x76.2 mm) steel flat bar to the approximate lengthsof the deck beams. Cut with oxy-acetylenetorch. Note that all deck beams must be mea-sured completely athwartships with about fourinches (101.6 mm) excess on either side. Do notconsider hatch openings and other apertures inyour measurements at this stage. Place the twopieces of flat bar side by side on the weldingbench. With chalk, mark off weld positionsevery six inches (152.4 mm) for the entire lengthof one piece of flat bar. Start at three inches76.2 mm) from one end of the second piece offlat bar and then mark off every six inches(152.4 mm) for the entire length.

TASK 3 - Weld Deck Beams in Jig

Insert 1/8" x 1-1/2" (3.17 mm x 38.1 mm)flat bar into horizontal aperture of the jig, eightinches (203.2 mm) protruding outwards. Insert1/8" x 3" (3.17 mm x 76.2 mm) flat bar into thevertical slot of the jig, eight inches (203.2 mm)protruding outwards. Weld flat bars together witha bead one inch (25.4 mm) long starting at thethree-inch (76.2 mm) weld mark on one of theflat bars. On the other side of this weld thechalk line marking the next position is at sixinches (152.4 mm) from the end. Weld a one-inch (25.4 mm) bead at this position and pro-ceed in this manner, welding alternate sides,pushing the flat bars through the jig as required.

It will be observed that as the welded deckbeam advances through the jig and overhangsthe bench, the weight of it, plus the contractioncaused at the weld points, gradually imparts acurve to the beam in the desired direction.

Weld up all the deck beams and store.

Checking deck beam curve against the woodenpattern.


TASK 4 - Master Pattern for Deck Beam

Camber

Select a good piece of 2" x 12" x 16'(50.8 mm x 304.8 mm x 4.5 m) clear cedarfor the deck beam camber master pattern.Mark a center line, buttock lines, and a baseline on the plank and from the Table of Offsetson the Lines Drawing read off the requiredmeasurements to describe the deck camber.With nails, a batten and a felt pen, ink thecurve in the same way as used on the loftingfloor. Cut carefully along the curve with a bandor saber saw. Both sections of the sawn cedarplank may now be used as a deck beam camberpattern but the "male" pattern which fits be-neath the deck beam, is the better one as thismakes contact with the horizontal section ofthe inverted "T."

TASK 5 - Deck Beam Bending Jig

To make this jig cut two pieces three feet(914.4 mm) long of 3" x 3" x 1/4" (76.2 mmx 76.2 mm x 6.3 mm) angle iron. Weld the angleiron pieces back to back but with a 3/16-inch(4.7 mm) gap between them, to two flat barbase plates. Place the completed jig on a con-crete floor with the deck beam master camberpattern close to hand. (Refer to Figure 22.)

TASK 6 — Check and Hammer Deck Beams to

Master Camber Pattern

Place the welded deck beam upside downinto the bending jig, that is to say, with the 1/8"x 3" (3.17 mm x 76.2 mm) flat bar section of thedeck beam inserted into the slot between theangle iron of the jig. Take a short-handled 20pound (9 kg) sledge hammer and pound the 1/8"x 1-1/2" (3.17 mm x 38.1 mm) flat bar sectionof the underside of the deck beam at select spotsto induce the correct camber. Check constantlyby laying against the camber pattern.

Simple deck beam bending jig.

Pounding a curve into the deck beam.


Figure 20. Jig for bending 1/2" rod frames

Figure 21. Welding jig for deck beams.


Figure 22. Jig for fairing deck beams.

Figure 23. Jig for bending T-bar hanging knees.


TASK 7 — Cleaning and Priming Deck Beams

Take a steel scraper and wire brush andclean off all welding scale and rust from the deckbeams. If the rust is advanced on the deckbeams, use a disc sander and rotary wire brush.Prime with red lead paint.

TASK 8 — Mark Center Line and Buttock Lineson Deck Beams

When the red lead paint is dry mark thecenter line and buttock lines neatly onto thedeck beams, using the master deck beam patternas a reference.

Further shaping required on this deck beam.

-

Cleaning off welding slag.

Marking the station number. Painting with red lead.


JOB 3 - ASSEMBLE FRAMES, DECK BEAMSAND SUSPENSION RODS

TASK 1 - Lay Hull Frame Pairs in Place onLofting Floor and Tack Temporarily Together

Lay the pair of frames selected in place onthe lofting floor. Drive nails at six-inch (152.4mm) centers along the station lines to hold theframes securely in place. Ensure that the tworods meet exactly at the keel center line. Tacktemporarily in place.

TASK 2 — Lay Deck Beam onto Frame andMark

Lay the deck beam on center into its re-quired position on the frames and mark off the

excess ends. Mark in such a way as to allow theframes to pass outside the beam and run freeup to the height of the rail cap.

TASK 3 - Cut and Weld Deck Beam in Place

Cut off the excess length at both ends ofthe deck beam. Lay back in place on the loftingfloor. Weld to the hull frames. Cutting excess ends off deck beam.

Welding deck beam to hull frame. Turning hull frame over to weld the other side.


The deck knee bending jig.

TASK 4 - Make Deck Knee Bending Jig

The accompanying photo illustrates thedeck knee bending jig. Also refer to Figure 23.The plate used is 1/8 inch (6.35 mm) cut on a14-inch (355.6 mm) radius. A piece of 1/8" x1-1/2" (3.17 mm x 38.1 mm) flat bar is weldedto the circumference of the plate. Height frombase to the crown is 7 inches (177.8 mm). Atone end a piece of 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) plate hasbeen welded with an aperture cut into it in theexact shape of an inverted "T." This is for insert-ing the 1/8" x 1" x 1" (3.17 mm x 25.4 mm x25.4 mm) T-bar.

The T-bar is then bent cold over the "back"of the jig to form one continuous circle ofT-bar. The T-bar circle is then marked to lengthand cut into deck knees. Make up 32 deck knees.

Inserting T-bar into the jig. Bending T-bar into full circle.


Side view of the jig.

Cutting out deck knee.

Marking to prescribed length.

TASK 5 - Weld in Deck Knee

With the hull frame and deck beam still lyingtacked together on the lofting floor as in Task 3,proceed to mark with chalk the ends of theT-bar knee which requires shaping to form a snugfit between hull frame and deck beam. Cut offthe marked surplus ends with the oxy-acetylenetorch. Now weld the deck knee so that it bracesthe angle between the hull frame and the under-neath of the deck beam. Weld in the 1/4-inch(6.3 mm) diameter rod deck knee reinforcingto the pattern as shown on the drawing. Notethat not all the hull frames require deck knees.Consult the drawing.

Fitting the deck knee in place.


Tapering ends to fit. Cutting deck knee reinforcing bars.

Welding reinforcing bars. Reinforced deck knee in place.


TASK 6 — Weld Lower Suspension Rods to HullFrame

In this method of hull construction, the hullframes require to be suspended from an overheadsupport structure. The suspension rods hang ina straight line from longitudinal girders on thesupport structure down to the hull frame at thedeck beam. At the deck beam the rod is inter-rupted. Below the deck beam the suspensionrod continues to the lower part of the hullframe. The rod used is 1/2-inch (12.7 mm)diameter deformed mild steel rod. The line thesuspension rod follows is Buttock No. 2 whichis already marked on the Deck and Beam and onthe lower hull frame. This task only concernsthe lower part of the suspension rod, from be-neath the deck beam to the lower hull frame.

Measure and cut two lengths of 1/2-inch(12.7 mm) diameter rod to fit between the upperpart of the lower hull frame and the undersideof the deck beam in the line of Buttock No. 2.Weld into place.

Welding lower suspension rods in place atButtocks No. 2. (Thinner horizontal rodsshown are bulkhead reinforcing rods.)

TASK 7 - Weld Athwartship Braces

An athwartship brace of 1/2-inch (12.7 mm)diameter rod is welded across the hull frame onthe line of Water Line No. 5. The brace liesinside the vertical suspension rods at ButtockNo. 2 and on the center line. The hull frameis now adequately braced for erection.

Completed hull frame showing vertically placedlower suspension rods at Buttock No. 2, a/soathwartship brace at Water Line No. 5.


TASK 8 - Weld Bulwark Supports

It is important that the rail cap lies flat insection as it accompanies the curve of the sheerline around the hull. To achieve this requiredflat section the bulwark support is made upwhile the frame lies in place on the lofting floor.

The outer edge of the rail cap is particu-larly vulnerable to chipping on a ferro-cementhull. To reduce damage, this outer edge isgently rounded. It is at this stage of construc-tion that this rounded edge is initially attendedto.

Rod bend at right angles in pivotal jig.

Take scrap lengths of 1/2-inch (12.7 mm)diameter rod and bend them over sharply at rightangles in a pivotal jig or a bench vise. The rodforms a tight little curve where it has been bentover. This will later give the outer edge of therail cap the desired rounded section. The rod isthen cut short immediately below the bend andis cut to a length of five inches (127.0 mm), thismeasurement including that absorbed by theright-angled bend. Prepare 46 of these pieces.

Select a straight-edged length of lumber andlay it on the concrete floor butted to the rail capat the top of the hull frame. Lay the long partof the rail cap piece of rod up against the straight-edged lumber and mark the hull frame rod at thepoint where the downward end of the bent railcap piece meets it. Cut the hull frame rod at thismark. Butt weld the rail cap piece to the hullframe, the straight-edge lumber ensures that therail cap section will lie flat. Proceed with theopposing rail cap on the hull frame in the samemanner.

A length of 1/8" x 1" x 1" (3.17 mm x25.4 mm x 25.4 mm) T-bar is used as a bulwarksupport. It is prepared and welded to the tip ofthe rail cap piece and to the upper side of thedeck beam as the next step in this sequence ofconstruction. But first, a cut-back is required onthe horizontal top section of the "T" to theheight of one inch (25.4 mm) at the foot whereit is welded to the deck beam. The purpose ofthis cut-back is to improve concrete penetrationinto the deck reinforcing material at the time ofplastering. The bulwark support is welded intoplace on the lofting floor; the distance from theoutside of the hull frame to the outside of theT-bar support at deck level is maintained atseven inches (177.8 mm) throughout. The bul-wark support is now ready to receive the 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) diameter rod reinforcing. Cutthe rod with bolt-cutters and weld in place toconform to the pattern shown on the drawing.

Prepared rail cap piece butted to hull frame rod,prior to welding together.

STAGE 1 - J O B S VOLUME I Page 67

Pre-bent keel section rod being cut on thelofting floor.

The bulwark support shown without reinforc-ing. Note that the tip of the rod is welded tothe tip of the T-bar vertical screed. The longi-tudinal piping screed for the rail cap will laterbe welded into this prepared support.

TASK 9 - Weld Keel Sections

The keel sections are made from pieces of1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameter rod bent to conformto the keel section lines as inscribed on the loft-ing floor at every station. For ease of bending,each keel section is made from two separatepieces of rod. The rod shape is checked on thelofting floor and cut directly on the center line.The two separate rod pieces are welded to theunderside of the frames and butt-welded to-gether at the bottom of the keel.

Keel section complete.


TASK 10 - Weld Rod Reinforcing to SolidBulkheads

There are seven solid bulkheads to this hull(if the transom is to be included in this count).These bulkheads receive 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) diame-ter rod reinforcing throughout their full section.

The 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) diameter rod reinforc-ing is welded vertically between the frames andthe underside of the deck beam at three-inch(76.2 mm) centers. The horizontal rods arewelded in the same way at three-inch (76.2 mm)centers. All intersections of rod are tacked to-gether. This reinforcing grid of rods must lie flatsquare and be well tensioned.

Welding bulkhead reinforcing rods.

TASK 11 - Weld Webs to Hull Frames

Nine of the open hull frames take a reinforc-ing web at their base center situated immediatelyabove the keel. The web is topped with a lengthof 1/8" x 1" x 1" (3.17 mm x 25.4 mm x 25.4mm) T-bar. The T-bar serves as a screed for theplasterers and as a foundation for the 1/4-inch(6.3 mm) diameter rod which reinforces theweb. This rod reinforcing is laid out in theform of a grid at three-inch (76.2 mm) centersand welded at all intersections.

Cutting T-bar screeds for hull webs.

STAGE 1 -JOB3 VOLUME I Page 69

TASK 12 - Fasten Mesh to Bulkheads,Bulwark Supports and Webs

The hull frames, completed to this stage,are taken one by one, laid over sawhorses, andgalvanized wire mesh is fastened to them in therequired areas. One inch by 20 gauge hexagonalmesh, galvanized after weaving, is used. Twolayers are fastened to each side of the bulkheads,the bulwark supports and the webs. Three-quarter inch (19.0 mm) hog ring staples are usedas fasteners to the 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) and 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameter rod reinforcing.These staples are applied with hog ring pliers.Around the outside edges of the 1/2-inch (12.7mm) diameter rod hull frames the mesh is laceddown tightly with tie wires. It makes a neaterfinish to the curved outer surface of the hullframe and more tension can be imparted to themesh layers. On long, straight edges gardenshears are used to cut the mesh; on curved orawkward edges tin snips are handier.

It is important to keep the mesh flat andwell tensioned on the webs, bulkheads and bul-wark supports. Care must be taken to ensurethat no areas are omitted, unreinforced withmesh, and that no loose ends of wire are leftprotruding. Loose ends of wire and mesh laterinterfere seriously with the plasterers' effortsto produce a smooth finish. In the same way,the hog ring staples must always be crimpedtightly to the reinforcing rods.

Web and deck knees ready for mesh.

Applying mesh to bulkheads.

The hog ring pliers.


Hull frame No. 36.

TYPICAL

HULL FRAME

CONSTRUCTION

Hull frame No. 34.

Hull frame No. 32.

STAGE 1 -JOB 3 VOLUME 1 Page 71

TYPICAL

HULL FRAME

CONSTRUCTION

Bulkhead No. 33.

Bulkhead No. 28.

Hull Frame No. 26.


Bulkhead No. 21.

TYPICAL

HULL FRAME

CONSTRUCTION

Hull Frame No. 16.

Hull Frame No. 12.

STAGE 1-JOB 3 VOLUME I Page 73

Hull Frame No. 6.

TYPICAL

HULL FRAME

CONSTRUCTION

Hull Frame No. 2.

The Transom.


Fastening mesh with hog ring staples.

Lacing mesh to bulkhead edges.

Cutting mesh with shears.

Stack of frames and meshed bulkheads. Trimming awkward edges with snips.


JOB 4 - ERECTING OVERHEAD SUPPORTS

TASK 1 - Measure Off Base

A rectangular area, 65' x 18' (19 m x 5.4 m)is measured off on the concrete building pad, orfloor, and diagonally checked for accuracy. Achalk-line is used to mark out the area whichrepresents the base for the overhead supportsteel structure.

cutting attachment on the oxy-acetylene torch.The braces are made from 1/4" x 3" (6.3 mm x76.2 mm) flat bar and cut to fit the 45-degreeangle between the vertical piping support and theoverhead, horizontal "I" beam.

N.B. Height of the piping supports maybe reduced from 18 feet (5.5 m) downto 15 feet (4.6 m) if builders feel theycan work with less than standing clear-ance on the deck.

TASK 2 — Layout and Fasten Wooden BasePlates

Lengths of 2" x 8" (50.8 mm x 203.2 mm)construction grade fir, butted end to end, areused for the base plate. Two base plates, each65 feet (19 m) long, are laid down followingthe chalk-lines already marked on the concretefloor. The wooden base plate and underlyingconcrete is drilled with 1/4-inch (6.3 mm)masonry drills and the plate fastened downwith 2 1/2-inch (63.5 mm) concrete nails.

TASK 3 - Bolt Piping Base Plate to Wooden

Base Plate

Twenty plates of nine-inch lengths of1/4" x 3" (6.3 mm x 76.2 mm) steel flat bar arecut and 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) holes drilled at eachend. These pieces are to serve as individual baseplates for the piping supports to the overheadstructure. The longitudinal centerline is markedwith chalk-line on the top of the wooden baseplate. The position of the piping supports ismarked off at two-meter (6.56 ft.) centers ontothe longitudinal center line. The individual steelbase plates for the piping supports are then laidin place on the 2" x 8" (50.8 mm x 203.2 mm)wooden base plate and fastened securely withtwo lag screws, size 1/4" x 1-3/4" (6.3 mm x44.4 mm).

TASK 4 — Prepare Piping Supports and Braces

The piping used is black steel constructionpipe 21/2-inch (63.5 mm) I.D. It is cut to therequired height of 18 feet (5.5 m) using a pipe

TASK 5 - Weld Overhead Support Frames

Each support frame for the overhead supportsteel structure is comprised of two vertical piecesof 2 1/2-inch (63.5 mm) I.D. pipe and one hori-zontal 20-ft. (6.1 m) "I" beam, 6" x 6" x 1/4"(152.4 mm x 152.4 mm x 6.3 m). As the widthof the support structure is 18 feet (5.5 m), the20-ft. (6.1 m) long "I" beam is marked for thepiping support weld at one foot (304.8 mm) fromeach end. For convenience, the support frameis welded up on the floor, carefully chocked forlevel and diagonally measured for accuracy. Thetwo braces are welded into place and the frameis laid flat to await erection. All ten supportframes are prepared.

Bolting pipe base plates to wooden base plate.

Page 76 VOLUME 1 STAGE 1 -JOB 4

TASK 6 — Preparations for Erection of SupportFrames

Two "spacers" are made to secure the hori-zontal "I" beams on the frames temporarily inplace when hoisted erect. The spacers are madefrom lengths of 2" x 4" (50.8 mm x 101.6 mm)lumber with arms nailed to them to hold the "I"beams apart at two-meter (78.6 in.) centers.Other equipment required: block and tackle forhoisting the frames, two-stage mobile scaffoldingwith locking wheels.

Spacer for use in erection.

Block and tackle hoist. A support frame starts to rise.


TASK 7 — Erect Overhead Support Structure

Starting at one end, the support frames arehoisted erect with the block and tackle. Thepiping supports are not welded to the base platesat this stage, the frame being temporarily bracedwith 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameter rod to theclosest external steel structure. The secondsupport frame is then hoisted, temporarilysecured with the 2" x 4" (50.8 mm x 101.6 mm)spacers, and braced with 1/2-inch (12.7 mm)diameter rod tacked to the "I" beams andpiping. All ten frames are erected and tempo-rarily braced in this manner.

TASK 8 - Align and Weld Overhead SupportStructure

The support structure is then aligned withstring, the flexibility of the 1/2-inch (12.7 mm)diameter rod bracing allowing sufficient measureof lateral movement for adjustment. The twoend frames are checked for vertical accuracywith the use of spirit levels and the vertical pipingwelded to the base plates. The interveningframes are then welded to the base plates afteraligning with string and plumbing with a spiritlevel.

TASK 9 - Weld Channel to Support Structure atButtock No. 2 Lines

Using a chalk-line, measure and mark a cen-ter line running over the top of the overheadsupport frames.

Measure and mark the positions, outwardsfrom the center line of the Buttock No. 2 Lines.Run the chalk-line over the top of the overheadsupport frames at these two lines.

Lay lengths of three-inch (76.2 mm) "U"channel on the inside edges of both Buttock No.2 Lines. Butt weld together. Weld to the over-head support frames.

A last heave to bring the frame upright.

Piping support welded to base plate.

Overhead support frames erected.


Longitudinal girder being laid over the supportframe.

Measuring from center to Buttock No. 2.

Longitudinal channel girder being hoisted.

Welding longitudinal girders to support frames.


JOB 5 - ESTABLISH BASE AND SUPPORTLINES

TASK 1 - Make Center Line and ButtockNo. 2 Lines

These three lines have already been markedat the top of the overhead support structure.(See Job 9, Task 9.)

Nail a length of 2" x 4" (50.8 mm x 101.6mm) lumber connecting the wooden base platesof the overhead support structure at both ends.

Using a plumb bob, transfer the CenterLine and Buttocks No. 2 Lines from the top ofthe support structure to the 2" x 4" (50.8 mmx 101.6 mm). Mark the wood clearly and titlethe marks.

TASK 2 - Mark Water Lines

The use of a transit is essential for markingthe water line onto the support structure. Aheight of 80 inches (2032 mm) from the flooris marked on the closest corner post of thestructure, and this same level, whatever theirregularities of the concrete floor, is then trans-ferred to all remaining pipe supports. This linenow represents Water Line No. 5 on the loftingfloor, the same line on which the athwartshipbraces run in the welded hull frames. (SeeJob 3, Task 7.)

Placing Water Line No. 5 at a height of80 inches (2032 mm) from the floor will give18 inches (457.2 mm) clearance beneath the keelwhen the hull hangs in the support structure.

TASK 3 - String the Water Line Around theFour Corners of the Structure

Starting at one corner of the structure, tiea builder's line to the steel piping at the markof Water Line No. 5 and extend around all foursides following the level marks.

Plumbing Buttocks No. 2 Line from overheadsupport.

Plumbing center line from overhead support.


TASK 4 - String Vertical Center Line andButtock No. 2 Lines

String builder's lines from the Center Lineand Buttocks No. 2 Line marks on the floor level2" x 4" (50.8 x 101.6 m). Run them to the cor-responding marks on the top of the overhead sup-port structure at both ends.

The support structure is now accuratelymarked to receive the hanging of the hullframes.

A transit is essential for accuracy.

Stringing the Buttock and Center Lines.

Marking Water Line No. 5 with the use of a transit. Piping support is marked.


Water Line No. 5 mark is taken all round withthe use of a pattern.

Stringing Water Line No. 5.

JOB 6 - MAKE STEM PIECE

The profile of the vessel was drawn on thelofting floor in Job 1, Task 4. Outlined are theprofiles of the stem, the keel and the deadwoodsection. The same 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameterrod is used to obtain these curved shapes as wasused on the hull frames. The rod is bent exactlythe same way.

TASK 1 - Measure and Cut Stem Piece Rod

Hammer 2 1/2-inch (63.5 mm) nails lightlyalong the line of the stem profile at two-inch(50.8 mm) centers. Measure the length of thestem profile, taking it from rail cap height at thecenter of the bow down to the straight part ofthe keel. Cut 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameterrod to this required length.

TASK 2 - Bend Rod to Shape of the Stem Piece

Bend the rod in the jig, in the same wayas described in Job 1, Task 10. Check the

Bending rod for the stem piece.

formation of the curve constantly by laying therod against the nail pattern on the lofting floor.Ensure that the curved rod lies flat.


Welding upper suspension rods to the deck beam.

Both suspension rods at Buttocks No, 2.

JOB 7 - HANGING FRAMES, FAIRINGFRAMES, WELDING STRINGERS

TASK 1 — Cut Upper Suspension Rods to Size

Calculate the height from the deck beam ofthe midship section to the top edge of the longi-tudinal channel at Buttock No. 2 Lines on thetop of the overhead support structure.

Select straight pieces of 1/2-inch (12.7 mm)diameter rod and cut 48 pieces to size. These rodswill be used to hang the hull frames from the longi-tudinal channel girders on the support structure.

TASK 2 - Weld Upper Suspension Rods to HullFrames

This task is the conclusion of Job 3, Task 6,where the suspension rods were welded from thelower hull frame to the underside of the deckbeam.

The hull frame is now placed on the floor.The end of an upper suspension rod is placed onthe deck beam at the Buttock No. 2 mark. Thetip of the rod touches the horizontal flat bar sec-tion of the deck beam and lies against the verticalsection. One man sights down the rod to ensurethat it is aligned with the lower suspension rod.The welder welds it in place to the deck beam.Weld all upper suspension rods to the hull framesin this way.

TASK 3 - Mark Hull Frame Positions on Longi-tudinal Girders

Check with the drawings to establish thespacing of the hull frames, fore and aft. Someare one meter (39.3 in.) apart, others, at the bowand stern, are only 50 cms (19.95 in.) apart.

Marking frame positions on the longitudinalgirders.


The spacing of the overhead supportframes is set at two meters (78.6 in.). It isimportant to mark the transom positionaway from the first transverse "I" beam sothat the suspension rods of all subsequenthull frames will not be intercepted by "I"beams. Proceed to mark both longitudinalgirders at Buttock No. 2 with the spacingsof the hull frames.

TASK 4 - Weld First Hull Frame to OverheadSupport Structure

Two welders and three men are requiredto carry out this job efficiently.

The two welders station themselves onthe top of the overhead support structure. Twomen hold the hull frame upright in place, bring-ing the suspension rods within grasp of thewelders overhead. The third man aligns theframes in relation to the reference marks onthe support structure.

As has been explained, the following pointsof reference are already prepared:

a) The center line is strung at both endsof the structure.

b) The Buttock No. 2 Lines are strung atboth ends of the structure.

c) The Water Line No. 5 mark is strungall around the structure.

d) The spacings between the hull framesare marked on the overhead longitudi-nal girders along the lines of ButtockNo. 2.

e) Each hull frame carries all the above-mentioned points of reference.

Two welders overhead ready for welding thesuspension rods to the support structure.

The first frame suspended in place.


Welding the suspension rods to the longitudinalgirders.

Two men hold the hull frame in place, thetwo welders, overhead, secure the suspensionrods, the fifth man carefully sights along all fourpoints of reference. As soon as the hull frame isabsolutely in line with the reference marks on thestructure the order is given for the suspensionrods to be welded in place.

The hull frame at Station No. 1 is the firstto be welded into position. The transom is to beleft until after the hull has been faired.

TASK 5 — Weld Remaining Hull Frames to Over-head Support Structure

Proceed forward from Station No. 1 and weldthe remaining hull frames in place in the samemanner.

At the bow, Station No. 35, 36 and 37 arenot wide enough to take the pair of suspensionrods at the Buttock No. 2 lines.

For Station No. 35 suspend the hull framefrom the bulwark supports.

For Stations No. 36 and 37 suspend the hullframe from a single rod at the Center Line.

The fourth frame hung into place. Checking alignment.


TASK 6 — Make Alignment Frames for BowHull Frames

The hull frames at the peak of the bow,Nos. 37 and 36, are situated above the level ofWater Line No. 5. All the remaining hull frameshave been sited level in erection using this waterline. To ensure that these two small hull frameswill be aligned with equal precision as the remain-der, a temporary alignment frame is constructed.

The alignment frames are constructed asfollows:

A horizontal piece of flat bar, 1/8" x 11/2"x 4 ft. (3.1 mm x 38.1 mm x 1.2 m), is used torepresent Water Line No. 5. Two identical ver-tical pieces are welded to the horizontal at ameasurement equal to half the beam of thehull frame.

The complete alignment frame is placedflat on the lofting floor, the horizontal armaligned to Water Line No. 5. The hull frameis placed over the alignment frame, into correctposition as shown on the lofting floor, andwelded temporarily.

Suspension rods are welded to the verticalarms of the alignment frame and the unit weldedto the overhead longitudinal girders in the sameway as the remaining hull frames.

The alignment frames will be cut awayonce the hull has been faired and the bowadequately braced.

Bow alignment frames welded into place.

Horizontal arm aligned with Water Line No. 5.


Eyes on Water Line No. 5.

Moving scaffolding forward for the overheadwelders.

Positioning the hull frame for the men aligning.

_

Checking center line. Hull Frame No. 14 is moved up.


Bringing up another frame.

Hull shape begins to emerge.

All frames hanging free.

Adjustment to a suspension rod. Sighting forward over the deck beams.


Plumbing a hull frame.

Measuring correct spacing between frames.

TASK 7 - Plumb One Hull Frame and Brace

Suspend a plumb bob down the center lineof one hull frame and brace it plumb. With thishull frame secure, other hull frames may beplumbed and braced to it.

TASK 8 — Plumb Remaining Hull Frames andBrace

Cut a length of 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) diameterrod and insert it through the hull frames at theCenter Line, just above the keel. Starting at thefirst hull frame braced, plumb the next hull frameto it. Check by measuring the space between theframes. Spot weld the rod to the frames. Plumband brace the remaining frames in this manner.

TASK 9 — Temporarily Brace Hull Frames toSupport Structure Sides

All the hull frames have been suspended,plumbed and braced fore and aft. The bow, amid-ships section and stern now require lateral bracingto the support structure. This will give many ofthe hull frames extra firmness and true alignmentbefore welding on stringers and the keel and thebow reinforcing.

First, a builder's line is strung on the CenterLine, a few inches below the keel.

The midships hull frame is held absolutely oncenter at the keel while diagonal braces of 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) diameter rod are welded from it tothe feet of the vertical piping of the support struc-ture. This bracing is duplicated on the other side.Diagonal braces are then welded from the hullframe at rail cap height to the support piping onboth sides.

The bow hull frame, No. 37, is then bracedlaterally, also hull frame No. 1 at the stern, in thesame manner. Every hull frame is temporarilybraced to the support structure with a single pieceof rod at Water Line No. 5.

Temporary bracing to support structure.

STAGE 1 -JOB 7 VOLUMEI Page 89

Checking alignment at the bow.

Stringing the keel center line.

Bracing frames at correct spacings.

Midships bracing to support structure. Temporary bracing at deck beam.


Welding stem-piece rod in place at the forefoot

TASK 10 - Weld Stem-Piece to Bow Frames

The cutting and bending of the stem-piecerod was described in Job 6, Tasks 1 and 2. Thehull frames, now aligned and braced, are ready toreceive the stem-piece. Beginning at Hull FrameNo. 37, weld the stem-piece rod to the outside ofthe lower center points of the forward hullframes. Note that the position of these hullframes have been previously marked on the stem-piece. By sighting with the vertical center linestring on the support structure, ensure that theupper part of the stem-piece is being weldedplumb.

By sighting along the center line stringbeneath the keel ensure that the lower part ofthe stem-piece is aligned.

Aft end of stem-piece rod is plumb on center. Welding stem-piece to the tip of the bow.

STAGE1 -JOB 7 VOLUME I Page 91

TASK 11Structure

Erect Scaffolding to Support

Leveling scaffolding supports.

Scaffolding supports made from 2" x 2"x 1/4" (50.8 mm x 50.8 mm x 6.3 mm) angleiron are welded to the vertical piping of thesupport structure at the height of Water LineNo. 5. This mark was previously made on thesupport structure in Job 5, Task 2.

Around the midships section of the hull,the angle iron scaffolding support consists ofan horizontal arm, 20 inches (508 mm) long,projecting inwards from the vertical piping.It is supported at its tip with a brace of thesame angle iron descending at 30 degrees tothe vertical piping. As the hull tapers at bowand stern, the horizontal arm of the supportis made longer to bring the scaffolding plankswithin one foot (304 mm) of the hull. Fourteenfeet (4.2 m) scaffolding boards of constructiongrade fir, 2" x 10" (50.8 mm x 254 mm) insection, are laid in pairs over the angle ironsupports completely around the hull. Stoutwooden steps are placed at both ends of thescaffolding walk, at bow and stern. There isstanding height beneath the scaffolding.

Scaffolding complete with steps at both ends.Scaffold supports project further at the bowand stern.


Tying on fairing battens. (Note braces toscaffold supports.)

JOB 8 - CHECK HULL AND DECK EXTERIORFOR FAIRNESS

This is the most critical stage of the construc-tion of a fair hull. It is the hour of proof on thequality of the work which has preceded it. Onthe lofting first of all; whether the work on thelofting floor has been accurately carried out.Whether the hull frame rods were bent faithfullyto the curves described on the lofting floor.Whether any distortion to the hull frames passedunnoticed when the bracing and bulkhead rein-forcing was welded into place. Finally, whetherthe support structure has been welded up true andsquare and the hull frames suspended in properalignment.

In Job 7, Task 8, every second hull frame wasaligned and laterally braced to stiffen the hullframework in preparation to fairing. If the hullframework is too flexible, the bending of battensto the hull exterior to check fairness becomes anobject-defeating exercise. The batten will forcea series of hull frames into fair on one side of thehull and exaggerate the situation on the other side.So the hull framework must be braced firmly and,if the batten does reveal a hull frame out of align-ment or out of shape, the hull frame brace mustbe broken and the frame attended to until it comesinto fair.

It is worthwhile exercising every ounce ofpatience and care in eliminating any unfair con-tours which may appear in the hull frames at thistime. Ahead of this stage of construction it be-comes too late for correction. Any defect in thelines of the hull will become built in, ultimatelycemented in, for all time.

Every frame is tied to the battens.


TASK 1 — Check Hull Exterior for Fairness

Two men hold up a 20-ft. (6.1 m) fir batten,1" x 2" (25.4 mm x 50.8 mm) in section, plac-ing its narrow surface against the outside of thehull frames, and sight along the batten to checkif any hull frame is slightly out of fair. If outof fair, the hull frame must be broken free fromits bracing and either realigned or reshaped,depending upon what is required to bring thehull frame into fair. It is then replaced andbraced.

The whole exterior of the hull frameworkis painstakingly worked over with the battenand all necessary adjustments to the hull framesmade. The finer the tolerances worked to, thefairer the hull will eventually be.

A fair shape at the bow.

Fairing and bracing. Heavy battens used at the sheer.


Adjustment at the bow.

Checking the deck shape with boards.

Sighting down the fairing batten.

TASK 2 — Check Deck Exterior for Fairness

The 20-ft. (6.1 m) batten is laid over thedeck beams. The deck sheer and camber ischecked for fairness. Any deck beams whichappear out of alignment are cut from the hullframes and welded into place. Equal care istaken with fairing the deck as with the hull.

Checking deck camber at the bow.


TASK 3 - Stem and Keel Reinforcing

Seven reinforcing bars of 1/2-inch (12.7mm) diameter rod are welded inside the keelsections as longitudinal reinforcing.

Six similar reinforcing bars follow thedescending profile of the bow and forefoot tojoin with the keel reinforcing. (This makes sevenstem reinforcing rods altogether, if the stem-piece rod, welded in Job 7, Task 10, is included.)

This is the procedure to follow:

1. Lay a length of 1/2-inch (12.7 mm)diameter rod inside the keel sectionalong the center line at the bottom.Align carefully. Lap-weld this lengthof rod to the aft end of the stem-piecerod. Weld in place to the keel sectionsand terminate the rod aft at StationNo. 10 keel section.

2. Weld a rod at Hull Frame No. 37 at adistance of three inches (76.2 mm)from the stem-piece rod. Allow thestart of the rod to exceed the height ofthe rail cap at the bow. (It will betrimmed later.) Follow the descend-ing profile of the stem-piece rod at adistance of three inches (76.2 mm).Weld to the inside of the bow hullframes. As the reinforcing rodapproaches the first of the keel sec-tions it passes inside it to the secondkeel section. The rod is welded to theinterior side of the keel sections at thepoint immediately above bottom sidecorner.

Weld a reinforcing rod in exactly thesame way on the other side of the stem-piece rod.

3. An extension is lap-welded to the rodat (par 2) to serve as keel longitudinalreinforcing. The rod is welded to thesame places inside the keel sections asdescribed at (par 2). It is allowed toextend for three feet (914.4 mm), un-supported, beyond the keel section atSection No. 8. This process is repeatedon the other side.

Stem reinforcing rods being welded in place.

The reinforcing rods follow the profile of thestem-piece rod.

AC work on stem and keel reinforcing.


Stem reinforcing viewed from inside.

Three inches (76.2 mm) aft from thestem reinforcing rod described at (par 2),another rod is welded in the same man-ner. At a distance of three inches (76.2mm) it follows the profile of this firststem reinforcing rod. As the rod entersthe first two keel sections it is weldedat the point: interior side, center.

A keel longitudinal rod is lap-welded toit, following the same weld attachmentpoints inside the keel sections. At Sec-tion No. 8 it projects, unsupported,for three feet (914.4 mm). This rein-forcing process is repeated on the otherside of the hull.

Three inches (76.2 mm) aft from thesecond stem reinforcing rod describedat (par 4) a third rod is welded in placein exactly the same manner. At threeinches (76.2 mm) distance it followsthe profile of the preceding rod (par 4)to the inside of the first two keel sec-tions. This rod is welded at the point:keel section interior, topside corner. Akeel longitudinal rod is lap-welded toit, following the same weld attachmentpoints inside the keel sections. At Sta-tion No. 8 it projects, unsupported, forthree feet (914.4 mm). This reinforc-ing process is repeated on the otherside of the hull.

In review, it will be seen that seven pieces of1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameter rod, three inches(76.2 mm) apart, form the bow and fore-footreinforcing. The keel longitudinal reinforcingconsists of seven pieces of rod as far aft asStation No. 10 where the keel bottom centerrod (par 1) terminated. Six reinforcing rods con-tinue, temporarily unsupported, for three feet(914.4 mm) beyond Station No. 8.

Stem reinforcing from the outside.


Keel section checked for alignment.

Placing keel reinforcing rods.

Lap-welding stem and keel reinforcing rods.

We/ding rods to inside of keel sections. Looking forward through the keel section.

Page 98 VOLUME I STAGE1 -JOBS

TASK 4 — Keel Deadwood Reinforcing

The six lengths of keel reinforcing which wereleft projecting from the inside of the keel sectionat Station No. 8 are now attended to. The objectis to shape the deadwood section of the keel. Thedimensions are taken from the hull profile linesdrawn on the lofting floor. It will be noted fromthe drawings that this deadwood section is stream-lined to a fine trailing edge, a design factor whichwill lend directional stability to this twin-enginedcraft when underway. Great care must be takenin construction at this point to ensure that thisdeadwood reinforcing runs perfectly true. Anydeflection built in at this stage will give the boata tendency to veer.

The following steps describe the construc-tion procedure:

1. A length of 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameterrod is taken to the lofting floor and bentto the gentle concave shape of the hulllower profile at the part where it runsforward from beneath the transom tothe point where the deadwood sectionmeets.

The keel deadwood reinforcing.

2. The position of the stations is markedon the rod. The rod is cut exactly to thepoint just forward of Station No. 4where the deadwood section meets.The aft end of the rod is cut at thepoint where it will later support thetransom.

3. The rod is welded to the bottom centerpoints of the aft hull frames, ensuringthat it is in perfect alignment fore andaft.

4. The two uppermost lengths of keelreinforcing rod which were left pro-jecting parallel from the inside of thekeel section at Station No. 8 are nowbrought together at the forward tip ofthe rod which was welded in Step 3.These two rods are marked and cut,welded together at their ends, andwelded also to the bottom of the hullframe at Station No. 6. The weldedends are welded to the tip of the rodwelded forward from Station No. 4 inStep 3, the rods so welded forming anarrow "Y" pattern trailing aft whenseen in plan view.

5. The distance aft from the keel sectionat Station No. 8 to the point where thedeadwood section rises is measured onthe lofting floor. This measurement istransferred to a batten. The batten isheld on the keel section bottom centerline with the required measurementprojecting aft.

6. The two lowermost keel reinforcingrods which were left projecting parallelfrom inside the keel section at StationNo. 8 are brought together at the mea-surement marked on the batten. Thetwo rods are marked and cut.

7. The tips of the two rods are weldedtogether exactly on the center line.

8. A straight piece of rod is marked andcut to form the trailing edge of thedeadwood section. This single rod con-nects the tips of the joined rods de-scribed in Step 7 to those described inStep 4. The angle is shown on the loft-ing floor.

STAGE1 -JOB8 VOLUME I Page 99

9. The two middle keel reinforcing rodsleft projecting parallel from the insideof the keel section at Station No. 8will now be brought together at thesingle rod forming the trailing edgeof the deadwood section. The pointof meeting chosen is that which dividesthe deadwood area in half. Conse-quently, the two rods describe a curveupwards from the keel towards thehull, to the point where their tipsare welded together at the trailingedge rod.

The hull framework, faired, braced andcomplete with spacer rods and transom, isnow ready to receive the first four layers ofmesh.

The fine trailing edge of the deadwood reinforcing.

Note tapering and upward sweep of the reinforcingrods.

Measuring spacer rod positions. Welding spacer rods in place.

Page 100 VOLUME I STAGE1 -JOB8

Spacing between the longitudinal rods narrowsat the bow.

Spacer rods terminating at the forefoot.

TASK 5 - Weld Longitudinal Spacer Rods toHull Frames

Straight 20-ft. (6.1 m) lengths of 1/4-inch(6.3 mm) diameter rod are provisionally wired,then welded, longitudinally, to the outside ofthe hull frames. Rod joints are lap-welded. Thefirst rod is welded at the deck sheerline. Theprocedure is then as follows:

1. At the amidships section hull frame ameasuring tape is run over the outsideof the hull frame from the rod runningat the deck sheerline to the uppermostlongitudinal keel reinforcing rod. [SeeStage 2, Job 1, Task 3, (5).] This dis-tance is then divided equally into tenparts and each division marked withchalk onto the frame. Working foreand aft from this amidship hull framethe remaining hull frames are dividedand marked into ten divisions with theexception of the bow hull frames Nos.34 to 37 which are too small for thispurpose.

2. Starting at the amidships section hullframe, 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) diameterrods are welded to the hull frames atthe marked spacings as described in(par 1). Because of the hull taper atthe bow the spacings of the rods atHull Frames Nos. 34 to 37 are nar-rowed. Some of the lower spacer rodsterminate at the curved forefoot of thebow.

Note that the spacer rods are left to run wildat hull frame No. 1 to provide support for thetransom. The full purpose of these preliminaryspacer rods will become apparent on progressingto the fastening of the first four layers of meshand the application of the longitudinal reinforc-ing rods.

Welding spacer rods amidships.


TASK 6 - Weld Transom in Place

The forward-inclined transom is welded tothe hull framework. The transom received itsreinforcing grid of 1/4-inch (6.3 mm) diameterrods in Job 3, Task 10. Unlike the bulkheadsit has not been meshed in advance.

The measurements for the exact sitingof the transom are taken from the loftingfloor. The transom is held in place andwelded into position with a temporarybracing of 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameterrod. The fairing of the transom is checkedwith the use of battens. Once correctly alignedand faired, the transom is welded to the hullframework by means of the hull spacer rodsand the 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameter rod run-ning aft from the base center point of StationNo. 4.

Fairing battens used to align position of transom.

Note concave shape of hull beneath the stern. The transom temporarily braced in place.


The mesh is pulled out from the roll to therequired length and cut with shears.

The strip of mesh is folded double.

STAGE 2 - JOB 1APPLYING RODS AND MESH

TASK 1 - Make Mesh Folding and CuttingBench

A bench is made up for folding and cuttingmesh. The bench surface is comprised of twosheets of 1/2-inch (13 mm) plywood, 4' x 8'(1,220 mm x 2,440 mm) giving the bench anoverall length of 16 feet (4,880 mm). The benchsupports are made from 2" x 4" (45 mm x 90mm) lumber.

The surface of the bench is marked at everyfoot (300 mm) of its length with a straight lineinked across it. The distance of each line fromthe end of the bench where the roll of mesh isto stand is marked clearly in feet. This will en-able the mesh folders to cut the strips of foldedmesh at whatever length they need at a glance.

The rolls of mesh are rotated on a lengthof pipe supported at one end of the bench andthe mesh drawn out over the bench top as re-quired. For convenient working the bench heightis placed at three feet (915 mm).

TASK 2 - Fold and Cut Mesh

Two men work at the bench, one on eachside, one man withdrawing the mesh to the re-quired length marked on the bench top, thesecond man cutting the mesh with garden shears.The length of cut mesh is then simply foldeddouble lengthwise, the fold being flattened witha piece of wood or pipe. Some quantities offolded mesh strips may be prepared in advance.The mesh used is 1" (25 mm) by 20 gaugehexagonal mesh, galvanized after weaving. Theroll is 36 inches (915 mm) wide and 150 feet(45 m) long. When folded, the mesh strips are18 inches (457 mm) wide.

777e fold in the mesh is pounded flat.


TASK 3 — Applying First Four Layers of Meshto the Hull

Beginning at the midships hull frame, alength of folded mesh is hung perpendicularlyand clipped with hog ring staples to the spacerrod running at the deck sheer. Six inches (153mm) of surplus mesh are allowed to run overat the deck sheer. (Later, this six inches (153mm) of mesh will be folded over to merge withthe deck mesh reinforcing.) This folded strip ofmesh, secured at the deck sheer spacer rod, isthen grasped firmly but without excessivetension and is laid over the hull spacer rodsdown to the keel. The hull frame rod is usedas a center line guide for the 18 inches (457 mm)wide folded strip of mesh. The mesh is fastenedwith hog ring staples to the hull spacer rodsonly at those points where gravity tends to pullthe mesh away from the rods, the idea beingto use the staples as economically as possibleat this stage. At the keel the mesh is trimmedaway following the line of the lower reinforc-ing bar in the keel section.

The second folded strip of mesh is fastenedin the same way to the deck sheer spacer rodleaving a six-inch (153 mm) surplus above.This time, however, the folded strip of mesh islaid over half the width of the first strip ofmesh. The same hull frame rod which wasused previously as a center line guide, nowbeing used as a guide for the edge of this secondstrip of mesh. It is fastened lightly with hog ringstaples and trimmed at the keel in the same man-ner as the first strip of mesh applied.

Strips of folded mesh are applied leadingforward in this same way, each 18 inches(457 mm) wide strip lapping a nine-inch (229mm) width of the preceding strip. In this way,as the strips of mesh are double and fully lapped,four layers of mesh are applied. At the sametime, strips of mesh may be applied leadingaft, over-lapping the first laid strip of mesh bynine inches (229 mm) as has been described.

A second team of meshers may start workon the opposite side of the hull following thesame procedure.

Care must be taken to ensure that not toomuch tension is pulled on the strips of mesh,especially in the one-meter wide spaces betweenthe hull frames. Here the 1/4-inch (6.4 mm)diameter spacer rods tend to be forced inwards,imparting an undesirable hollow in the hullsurface areas between the well-faired frames.

Working forward from the amidships sectionthe first strips of mesh are fastened to thehull framework. Note surplus mesh at thedeck sheer line.


The mesh is cut long enough to reach thetop of the bulwarks at the bow.

The mesh fasteners work in pairs.

The man at ground level first fastens the meshat his own height, then works downwards.

Butting the folded strip of mesh to the previouslyoverlaid strip.


The mesh fasteners close in at the stem.

Inserting the open-jawed staples into the hog ringpliers.

The open jaws of the staple are thrust through themesh and are closed tightly around the spacer rodwith the pliers.

Mesh is left untrimmed at the stem.

Page 106 VOLUME I STAGE 2-JOB 1

Mesh is fastened to the inside of the transombefore the hull mesh encloses this section.

TASK 4 — Apply Mesh to Transom Interior

At the same time as the mesh is being fas-tened to the hull, mesh should be applied to theinside of the transom. Access is easier to thisarea before the hull mesh encloses it and createscorners which are awkward to work to.

TASK 5 — Fasten Longitudinal Reinforcing RodsAbove the Mesh

As soon as the hull is covered with its firstfour layers of mesh as described in Task 3, longi-tudinal reinforcing rods of 1/4-inch (6.4 mm)diameter mild steel are fastened above the meshfor the entire length of the hull.

These longitudinal rods accompany the linesof the spacer rods, lying under the mesh, whichwere welded in place in Stage 1, Job 8, Task 5.Five longitudinal rods are fastened between eachpair of spacer rods. An equal distance is main-tained between the spacer and all longitudinalrods. The procedure is as follows:

1. The distance between all spacer rodson the hull is equal as has been describedin Stage 1, Job 8, Task 5. A chalk markis now made on the hull frames at thecenter point between each pair of spacerrods.

2. A longitudinal reinforcing rod is fas-tened with tie wire to the hull framesat these center marks. This is laid firstin the midships part of the hull, abovethe mesh.

3. Two longitudinal reinforcing rods arelaid and fastened between this centerrod fastened in (2) and the spacer rod.Two longitudinal rods are laid in ex-actly the same way on the other sideof the center rod. Five longitudinalreinforcing rods now lie fastened atequal spacings between the one pairof spacer rods.

Interior meshwork becomes difficult and slowif the hull is meshed beforehand.


Working from midships, the entirehull is covered with longitudinal rein-forcing rods in this way. Note thatas the rod laying and fastening ap-proaches the stern and the bow thedistance between rods diminishesto conform to the tapering of thehull shape. Lap the reinforcing rodssix inches (152 mm) and stagger thejoints.

Do not lap-weld extensions to thelongitudinal reinforcing rods at thisstage. Only lap-joint the extensionsof rod and fasten with tie wire. Thereason for this will become apparenton reaching Task 7.

Fastening longitudinal rods on the outside of themesh. Underlying spacer rods used as guides.

The rods are fastened to the hull frames with tie wire.

Spacing between the longitudinal reinforcingrods diminishes at the bow.

Successive lengths of rods are lap-fastened, oneto the other.


Longitudinal rods are left projecting at the stem.

Fastening rods along the hull sides.

•

At the raised bulwarks to the bow the unsupportedmesh falls inwards, the rods are tied firmly to thebulwark supports (upper hull frames).

This view shows clearly the system of laying thereinforcing rods to conform to the underlyingspacer rods.


TASK 6 — Remove Underlying Spacer Rods,Replace With Longitudinal Reinforcing RodsOverlying the Mesh

The first set of spacer rods, carefully mea-sured and laid over the hull frames as describedin Stage 1, Job 8, Task 5, have now performedtheir purpose. They have served as a structureto fasten from the outside of the hull whatwill now be the first four inner layers of meshto the hull reinforcing.

Fastening mesh from the outside of thehull is a much easier and speedier operationthan fastening mesh on the inside. The hullexterior is one smooth, convex surface. Themesh strips can be laid over this surface easilyand tensioned without excessive use of staples.

The hull interior is partitioned with bulk-heads, frames and webs. This creates a seriesof awkward corners. Fastening the mesh tothe hull inner concave surface requires care-ful measuring, cutting, darting and trimmingand a greater use of fasteners. Fastening meshis a laborious business even on the hull exterior;fastening from the interior increases the workten-fold.

The spacer rods have served their purposeand will be cut out of the hull from the insidewith bolt cutters. As each spacer rod is re-moved from beneath the mesh it is replacedover the mesh with a corresponding longitudinalreinforcing rod. This is tied with wire to thehull frame rod as described in Task 5. Notethat care should be taken not to tread on thelongitudinal reinforcing rods when cutting outthe spacer rods from inside the hull. Planksshould be laid across the inside of the hullframes for this purpose.

The entire hull is now covered with 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) diameter longitudinal reinforcingrods. They will be found to lie at approxi-mately two-inch (51 mm) centers amidships,gradually diminishing this spacing as theyapproach the bow and stern.

On the left of the keel, spacer rods. On the rightvertical reinforcing rods have already been weldedto the longitudinal rods and the spacer rodsremoved.


Welding vertical reinforcing rod, the fairingbatten fastened in place.

TASK 7 - Weld Vertical Rod Reinforcing atThree-Inch (76 mm) Centers

It was mentioned in Task 3 that if excessivetension was applied while fastening the first fourlayers of mesh an undesirable hollow could appearin the one-meter wide spaces between the hullframes. To bring the hull shape back into fairbetween the hull frames a limber fairing battenis temporarily tied perpendicularly to the meshand rod reinforcing at center point between thehull frames. One batten is placed outside thereinforcing at this point, the other inside, and thetwo fastened firmly together with tie wire. Thisdoes not apply to those sections at bow andstern where the spacing between the hull framesis only 50 cms.

Once the inner and outer battens have beenfastened together in place, the mesh and rod rein-forcing faired, vertical reinforcing rods of 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) diameter are welded to the longi-tudinal rods on three-inch (76 mm) centers. Theprocedure is as follows:

1. Two fairing battens are made up fromtwo-inch (51 mm) wide strips cut from3/16-inch (4.8 mm) plywood. The bat-tens are made 14 feet (4.3 m) long, eachcomprised of three layers of plywoodstrips nailed together, the joints stag-gered. The battens are temporarilyfastened together in place to the rodand mesh at the center measurementbetween the hull frames, one insideand one outside. The rod and meshreinforcing sandwiched between thesebattens is faired into the hull shape.

An inner and outer fairing batten beingfastened together.


2. A vertical reinforcing rod of 1/4-inch

(6.4 mm) diameter mild steel is welded

to the lowermost of the longitudinal

reinforcing rods lying on the side of

the keel. Its start-end is allowed to

project below untrimmed for three

or four inches. The position of weld-

ing is close to the fairing batten. The

rod is pre-shaped around the turn of

the keel with the hull (where the

garboard would be on a wooden

vessel) and allowed to run over the

longitudinal rods up beyond the rail

cap height by about twelve inches

(305 mm).

3. Six vertical rods are started at the

same time, three on each side of the

fairing battens. Note that not all

intersections of vertical with longitudi-

nal rods are welded. Welding starts at

the lowest intersection on the first of

the vertical rods and is carried up diag-

onally to the intersection of the third

vertical with the third longitudinal

rods. The idea being that welding at

every intersection will cause consider-

able shrinkage of the rod reinforcing

grid, imparting a flattened section to

the hull shape between hull frames.

Welding at every third intersection on

the diagonal in this way will give suffi-

cient strength to the rod reinforcing

grid. The purpose of the welding of

the rods together is primarily to pre-

vent the rods drawing through the

concrete should the hull ever suffer

a severe impact in service.

4. It was mentioned in the description

of Task 5 that the longitudinal rein-

forcing rod should not be lap-welded

at this stage, merely fastened together

at the lap-joints and fastened to the

hull frames with tie wire. Here, again,

the purpose is to allow the longitudi-

nal rods to contract freely as the

welding of the vertical rods proceeds.

Longitudinal rods may be lap-welded

as soon as the welding of the vertical

rods passes beyond the lap-joint.

The welder starts at the keel and works upwardsusing the batten as a guide.

Marking the spacings between vertical rods atthe garboard.


Vertical rods welded neatly in place along thehull sides.

View into the deadwood area.

Stern section completed, vertical rods untrimmedat the bulwarks.

TASK 8 - Make Starter Rod Jig

As their name implies, starter rods are usedto start off reinforcing in those places which areplanned to be completed only at a later stage ofconstruction. The engine bed starter rods, as aparticular example, are welded to the hull rein-forcing rods before the application of mesh iscompleted. The engine-bed reinforcing rods willgenerally be lap-welded to these starter rodsafter the hull has been concreted.

The starter rods are simply pieces of 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) diameter mild steel reinforcingrod bent over at half their length into rightangles. They are cut 12 inches (305 mm) long.One six-inch (152 mm) arm is welded to theexisting hull reinforcing rods, the other is leftto project six inches (152 mm) inside the hull.It will be appreciated that as starter rods leadinto other construction work they must be posi-tioned accurately.


When many starter rods are required asimple jig can be made to speed the work ofmeasuring, bending and cutting. The jigshould be mounted on the end of a bench ata comfortable working height of 36 inches(914 mm). The bench should be long enoughto support the standard 20-ft. (6.1 m) lengthsof 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) diameter rod. Theaccompanying diagram shows how this jig ismade.

TASK 9 - Make Starter Rods

A length of 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) diameter rein-forcing rod is laid on the bench and one end ofthe rod pushed hard against the "stop" on thejig. The lever is worked which bends a six-inch(6.4 mm) length of the rod at right angles. Therod is cut with bolt cutters at the prescribedmark on the jig. The desired quantity of starterrods is prepared in this way.

Figure 24. Bending Jig for Starter Rods.


Bending and cutting starter rods.

TASK 10 - Weld Starter Rods Along Diagonal"D" Line

Wooden battens, butted end to end, aretemporarily fastened to the outside of the hullrod reinforcing along the line of diagonal "D."The mark of diagonal "D" has been lightly sawnonto the hull frames in Stage 1, Job 1, Task 11.The procedure is as follows:

1. A chalk mark is made on all vertical andlongitudinal reinforcing rods where theybisect the line of diagonal "D."

2. The battens on the diagonal "D" line areremoved.

3. Starter rods are pushed through the hullreinforcing at the chalk marks, from theoutside inwards. Starter rods are nor-mally placed six inches (152 mm) apart.

4. The starter rods are welded to the hullrod reinforcing. The six-inch (152 mm)outer arm of the starter rod is weldedto the vertical and longitudinal reinforc-ing rods on the diagonal. (The ideabeing that a concentration of reinforcingrod will not be built up and so makepenetration of the concrete difficult.)Alternate the direction of every secondstarter rod where it is welded to the hull,one up and one down.

5. Repeat this procedure on the other sideof the hull.

The inner arm of the starter rods at diagonal"D" will later form part of the reinforcing of astringer which will run the entire length of theinside of the hull. The line of diagonal "D" waschosen for this stringer as it intercepts the futurewaterline of the boat in two places. In so doing,it will afford valuable reinforcing to the hull atan area which is vulnerable on collision or ifleft high and dry on its side.

Starter rods welded at the line of the diagonal"D"stringer. Note one-up/one-down diagonalwelding to avoid concentrations of rod.


TASK 11 - Weld Hull Reinforcing Rods atStem, Keel and Transom

The hull reinforcing rods have been leftuntrimmed at the stem, below the keel, andat the transom. (The vertical rods untrimmedat the rail cap will be attended to in Task 14.)The procedure is as follows:

Stem: The longitudinal reinforcing rodsare cut off at the stem-piece rod. The rodsfrom port and starboard are welded to thestem-piece 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameter rod,their ends hammered round the front of thestem-piece and welded together. At the fore-foot twelve-inch (305 mm) long rods are pre-bent in a "U" shape. The arms of the "U"are welded to the reinforcing rods to port andstarboard of the forefoot. As the forefootwidens vertically placed rods are bent aroundto the opposite side and upwards then weldedto the longitudinal reinforcing.

Keel: Four longitudinal 1/4-inch (6.4 mm)diameter reinforcing rods are fastened over themesh at the bottom of the keel for its entirelength. The vertical untrimmed rods are bentround to the bottom of the keel, correspond-ing port and starboard rods are lap-welded to-gether and then welded to the longitudinalrods. Be careful to keep a fair line on thebottom edge of the keel where the rods bendaround.

Transom: Hull longitudinal rods aretrimmed off at three inches beyond the transom.These are welded to the transom frame of 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) diameter rod and hammeredround into the transom reinforcing. Wherethe ends of these rods make contact with thetransom reinforcing grid they are weldeddown. Be sure to be neat as this is a finishedcorner. If the rods are not bent carefully abumpy edge will result.

Batten fastened at the line of diagonal "D" formarking position of the stringer starter rods.

Stringer starter rods from the inside.

Longitudinal rods fastened at the stem prior totrimming and welding.


At the transom the longitudinal rods are weldedand their ends hammered around the frame.

The rounded ends of vertical rods butt-weldedat the trailing edge of the deadwood.

Welding the ends of the vertical rods to theunderside of the keel reinforcing.

Detail at the transom edge. Longitudinal rods tothe right await welding, trimming and bending over.


TASK 12 - Staple Interior Mesh to LongitudinalRods

Working from inside the hull, the first fourlayers of mesh are checked for tautness andadditional hog ring staples applied where neces-sary. Fastening is made to the longitudinalreinforcing rods. The complete interior ofthe hull is checked in this way.

Detail at the underside of the keel.

The interior mesh now requires fastening to theexterior rod framework.

Fastening the interior mesh with hog ringstaples.


STAGE 2-JOB 2DECKHEAD LINING PREPARATIONS

Up to this stage the deck consists only ofthe deckbeams, painted and faired, standing atevery hull frame for the entire length of thehull. As work proceeds on the welding of verticalreinforcing rods to the longitudinal, preparationsmay now be made for lining the deckhead. Thefirst preparation is to establish where all aper-tures in the deck are sited.

TASK 1 - Marking Deck Apertures

There are several apertures to be markedout on deck. They represent the engine removalhatches, deck hatches, companionway, aftcabin opening and ventilation ducts. The exactpositions of these apertures and their dimen-sions are shown on Figure 5.

The center line has been previously markedon all deckbeams but it is advisable to string aline once more over the beams to verify that allcenter line markings remain aligned. From thecenter line read off the measurements of the

apertures, to port and starboard, as noted inFigure 5. At the same time take measurementsand note the lengths of longitudinal beams whichare required to form, in conjunction with theathwartship beams, the rectangular hatch openings.

TASK 2 — Making Longitudinal Beams for DeckApertures

The longitudinal beams are made of thesame flat bar material and welded together in thesame jig as the deck beams. (See Stage 1, Job 2,Tasks 1, 2 and 3.)

The longitudinal beams are made to a lengthof one meter (the measurement between deckbeams) except in the case of the twin hatchesamidships, labeled Nos. F and G on Figure 5. Herethe center sections of the deck beams at StationNos. 20 and 22 will be cut out where the longi-tudinal beams intersect them. The longitudinalbeams which form the sides of Hatches Nos. Fand G will therefore be made to the length ofone and one-half meters. The purpose in keepingmost of the longitudinal beams as short as onemeter is twofold:

1. The existing deck beams remain inplace to lend the hull framework struc-tural strength until the time that theconcrete has cured. (These deck beamsin the hatch openings will then be cutaway.)

2. As has been explained earlier, the con-traction caused by the welding of thebeams in the deck beam jig imparts aconvex curve. This aids in the forma-tion of the deck beam camber but, inthe case of the longitudinal beams,this curve has to be pounded out. Con-sequently, these beams are kept shortin length and only spot-welded together.Note that six one-meter lengths oflongitudinal beam will also be requiredto form the fore and aft sides of theengine room ventilator ducts betweenStations 8 and 10.

Positions of deck apertures strung out over deckbeams.


TASK 3 - Weld Deck Aperture Beams in Place

The prepared longitudinal beams are weldedto the deck beams at the markings made in Task 1.As an aid to alignment, a line is strung over themarks in those cases where two or more longi-tudinal beams are welded to intervening deckbeams to form one continuous beam.

At the twin midships hatches Nos. F andG the center sections of the deck beams atStation Nos. 20 and 22 are cut out where theone and one-half meters longitudinal beamsintersect. The two cut-out center sections arethen welded in place to the longitudinal beamsat the measurements as shown on Figure 5.

Short lengths of beam are weldedathwartships to the longitudinal beams be-tween Stations 8 and 10 to complete theopenings for the engine room ventilators.

Center sections of deck beams at Stations 20and 22 cut away for hatches.

Longitudinal deck beam will form side ofhatch.

Welder pushes string aside to weld beam inplace.


Hatch openings take shape.

Hatch to the forepeak.

Welding longitudinal beam in place.

Underside view of hatch opening.Engine hatch will retain its center deck beam(No. 12) until after plastering.


TASK 4 - Make Deck Ventilator Coamings

Six coamings are made for deck ventilators.The position and the dimensions of these coam-ings are shown on Figure 5. Mild steel plate, 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) thick, is cut into four pieces 6" x8" (152 mm x 203 mm) and welded into acoaming.

On two opposite sides of the coaming, at aheight of two inches (51 mm) from the bottomoutside edge, a piece of flat bar, 4" x 1" x 1/8"(102 mm x 25 mm x 3.2 mm), is welded onhorizontally as a support for the coaming. Thecoaming will later rest on the supports in a cut-out made in the wooden deck lining. The bot-tom edge of the coaming will project for oneinch (25 mm) through the wooden deck-head.In this way, by leaving the steel coaming project-ing above the deck and below the deckhead lining,ventilation ducting may be welded to it later.

Fabricating deck ventilator coamings.

Welder uses a wooden pattern to keep thecoamings square.

Horizontal supports to the coamings weldedin place.


Angle iron supports for the deckhead linings atthe bow.

TASK 5 — Weld Deckhead Lining Supports

In the following places 1" x 1" x 1/8"(25 mm x 25 mm x 3.2 mm) angle iron is to beused as a support for the wooden deckhead lining.One is at the inside of the transom athwartships.It is also required forward of Station No. 28 atthe deck sheer line running to the bow. In themidships section the lip on the deck beams supplyall the support required for the wooden deckheadlining. Where the sheer line at the bow tapersinward the tongue-and-groove wooden deck liningplanks require lateral support in addition to sup-port fore and aft. The angle iron is welded tothe hull frame rods at the deck sheer line. Theinward facing lip of the angle iron maintained atthe same level as the deck beam lip. The same pro-cedure is followed at the transom.

The angle iron is welded between hull frames atthe deck sheer line.

Angle iron support across the transom.The angle iron is welded exactly at the deck sheerline marked on the hull frame.


TASK 6 - Clean and Prime Deck Steel Work

The deck longitudinal beams require clean-ing and priming with red lead paint. Also thedeckhead support angle iron and the prepareddeck ventilator coamings. All welds and weldburns on the previously painted deck beamsrequire cleaning and painting. Once all thedeck steel work has been touched-up andcoated with red lead paint, preparations maybe made for applying the deckhead liningand insulation material.

STAGE 2-JOB 3LAYING DECKHEAD LINING

Preparations are now complete for thelaying of the deckhead lining. The linings aresimply cut and laid in from the top of the deckto rest on the projecting lips afforded by thedeck beams and the angle-iron supports attransom and bow. The lining materials in theorder of installation are as follows:

1. Red cedar tongue-and-groove plank-ing, 1" x 10" (20 mm x 240 mm),dressed.

2. Two inches (50 mm) thick polyure-thane foam insulation slabs wrappedin 4-mil vinyl sheeting.

3. Compressed hardboard panels, 1/8-inch (3 mm) thick.

TASK 1 - Fitting Wooden Deckhead Planks

The red cedar tongue-and-groove plankingis best supplied in length multiples of one meter(the measurement between the supporting deckbeams) in order to reduce wastage. Note thatthe dimensions of the planking, 1" x 10" (25mm x 250 mm) are reduced to 3/4" x 91/2" (20mm x 240 mm) when dressed to the tongue-and-groove form.

Red cedar tongue-and-groove planking hascertain advantages over plywood when used asa deckhead lining.

A protective coat of red lead for the angleiron supports.

a. All the grains of the red cedar planksrun in one direction, consequentlythese planks will span a larger gapunsupported than would plywood ofthe same thickness. Plywood hasonly one-half of its wood grains lyingin any one direction. The interlock-ing tongues and grooves of the cedarplanks help support one plank to theother longitudinally. The entire widthof the deck may be covered with inter-locking planks which, when installed,become as one integral unit. If ply-wood sheets were used, wooden buttjoints would be required betweeneach sheet.

b. Plywood will not stand up to the wooddry rot conditions which have to beallowed for in this type of deckheadlining. Red cedar is excellent rot-resisting wood. Plywood, in this appli-cation as a deckhead lining, does nothave the rot-resistant qualities for whichred cedar is noted.


Work bench with power saw is placed close to thehull.

c. Red cedar is lighter than plywood andweight is always a factor when consider-ing decking materials.

d. Red cedar is a reasonably stable wood.The tongues and grooves in the plankingwill accommodate any expansion orcontraction which might occur in thesurrounding hull materials better thanplywood.

e. If laid with care, the edges of the grooveswell aligned, the good side of the plank-ing downwards, the red cedar gives avisually attractive deckhead liningwhich can be painted or clear varnished.Electrical fittings and cable can beattached to it easily.

Two men may be effectively assigned to fit-ting the deckhead lining. One man stationed ondeck measures and calls the measurements out toa second man working a power saw below. Theboard is sawn and the edge beveled, then passedup to the man on deck. He checks the fit of theboard, primes all edges with red lead paint, thenfits the board in its final position between thedeck beams.

The following points should be noted infitting the deckhead planking:

1. Work should start amidships and progressfore and aft.

2. The fore and aft down-side edges of theboards should be beveled to half-thickness at 45°. In this way contactwill be avoided with the weld seams inthe deck beams and the boards will lieflat.

3. The boards should be aligned neatlyfore and aft, the good side laid down-wards.

4. The end-grain of the boards should beparticularly well sealed with red leadpaint.

Measuring the space between deck beams for thered cedar tongue-and-groove planking.


Marking the measurement onto the plank.

Sawing the planks to size.

Beveling the edge of the planking to avoidfouling the welding beads on the deckbeams.

Throwing the prepared plank to the man on deck.


Sealing the edges of the planks with red lead paint.

Inserting the tongue of the plank into the grooveof the preceding one.

Detail of planking between the midships hatches.

Painting the topside of the deckhead plankingafter installation.


TASK 2 — Installing Deck Ventilator Coamings

The deck ventilator coamings which werefabricated in Job 2, Task 4, are ready for installa-tion. Measurements for locating the six venti-lator coamings are shown in Figure 5. Thepositions are then marked accurately on the top-side of the deckhead wooden lining. A hole isdrilled through the planking at each corner ofthe 6" x 6" (150 mm x 150 mm) aperturemarking, the sides are cut away with a saberor key-hole saw. The square aperture is thentrimmed to a snug fit around the coamingwith a rasp. The coaming is simply droppedinto place, supported on the planking by itstwo lateral flanges.

Sawing out the marked positions of the deckventilator coamings.

A power drill and saber saw are used for cuttingthrough the planking.

The coaming, already painted, rests on its supportsin the aperture.


TASK 3 - Paint Deckhead Planking

The tongue-and-groove deckhead plankinghad previously been primed with red lead paintonly on its edges. The top-side surface of theplanking may now be painted. If the undersideof the red cedar planking is not to be clearvarnished this also may now be primed withred lead paint.

TASK 4 - Fitting Insulation Material

Polyurethane foam insulation material isgenerally supplied in slabs four feet (1,200 mm)wide and in varying length multiples of two feet(600 mm) up to 12 feet (3,660 mm), maximumlength. The thickness of the slab required istwo inches (50 mm). It is more economical touse the longest slabs available when orderingthis material.

Plastic sheeting is laid over the planking andlightly stapled down. Sufficient lap is givento enable the sheeting to enfold the foam.

Detail of painted deckhead planking around engineroom vent.

The slabs of foam insulation material are sawninto lengths of one meter (39 inches) with a powersaw. The sawn slabs are then checked for fit,trimmed if necessary, then wrapped with 4-milvinyl sheeting which has been previously laidover the deck. The slabs are fitted between thedeckbeams above the wooden deckhead lining.

At the deck sheer line, where the deck joinsthe sides of the hull, the slabs of foam insulationmaterial are beveled at 45° to half their thickness.When the deck is plastered the concrete will bewell vibrated into this groove formed by thebeveled edge of the slabs and so form a goodstrong joint of deck to hull side. Care must betaken not to form too deep a beveled edge. Toomuch concrete will build up in the groove alongthe sheer line bringing unnecessary weight to thehull.

The procedure for laying the foam insula-tion slabs is as follows:

1. Clear vinyl sheeting, 4 mil thick, islaid over the deckhead planking andstapled down lightly to keep it spreadopen between the deck beams. Suffi-cient lap is given to the sheeting toenable it to fold over the slab com-pletely when laid in place.


2. The 4 'x 12' x 2" (1220 mm x 3660mm x 50 mm) polyurethane foam mate-rial is sawn into one-meter (39 inches)lengths with a hand saw.

3. A man stationed on deck checks andmarks the slabs for fit and trim.Where the slab intercepts a hatchopening or ventilator coaming it ismarked for cutting. Where the slabadjoins the hull side it is marked forcutting and beveling.

4. The slab is cut according to the marks,beveled if required.

5. The slab is checked for fit.

6. The slab is fitted into place, above thedeckhead planking, between the deck-beams. The surplus ends of vinyl sheet-ing are folded neatly over the top ofthe slab, wrapping it completely andlightly stapled down.

Slabs of polyurethane foam insulation material.

Measuring the area between deck beams for theinsulation material.

Once the insulation material is fitted into placethe ends of the plastic sheeting are folded overthe top and stapled down.

Insulation material in place, plastic sheeting aboutto be folded over the top. Note hammer staplingtool on left.


TASK 5 — Laying Hardboard Panels AboveDeckhead Insulation Material

Compressed hardboard panels, 4' x 8' x 1/8'(1220 mm x 2440 mm x 3 mm), complete thedeckhead lining materials. It is fitted betweenthe deck beams above the polyurethane foaminsulation material. Its purpose is to give thefoam insulation material protection against weldburn when the deck reinforcing rods are weldedto the upper edges of the deckbeams. The com-pressed hardboard, 1/8-inch (3 mm) thick, alsosecures staples better than the foam insulationmaterial and eases the work of laying the firstfour layers of mesh over the deck.

Fitting the hardboard panels.

Compressed hardboard panels are laid over theinsulation material, between the deck beams.

The compressed hardboard panels are cutinto one-meter (39 inches) lengths and fittedbetween the deck beams. Due to the thicknessof the deckhead planking and the wrapped foaminsulation material, the hardboard panels finishvirtually level with the upper edge of the deckbeams. The panels are secured to the deckheadlining below with galvanized roofing nails. Thehardboard is cut to fit nearly around hatch open-ings and ventilator coamings. The panels arecut to the starting edge of the bevel on theinsulation slabs at the deck sheer line.

The panels are lightly nailed down withgalvanized roofing nails.


STAGE 2-JOB 4LAYING MESH AND RODS ON DECK

The deckhead lining with its layers of plank-ing, insulation material, and protective coveringof compressed hardboard is now complete. Thedeckhead lining so prepared has now formed aconvenient mold on which to lay down themesh and rod reinforcing for the ferro-cement deck.

The reinforcing for the deck is as follows:four layers of mesh, longitudinal reinforcing rodsat 3-inch (75 mm) centers, athwartship rods at3-inch (75 mm) centers, another four layers ofmesh on top.

The deck reinforcing combines with thehull reinforcing to form one, integral unit.Deck longitudinal rods project fore and aft overthe sheer to be turned downwards and weldedto the hull reinforcing rods. Athwartship rodsproject through the bulwarks at the sheer,their ends to be alternately turned downwardsand upwards and welded to the hull reinforcing.Mesh left surplus at the sheer when the firstfour layers were applied to the hull is turnedand stapled down to merge with the firstfour layers of mesh on the deck. The fourupper layers of mesh on deck are folded upwardsto merge with the mesh fastened to the insideof the bulwarks.

First strips of mesh are stapled to the deckheadlining which now forms an effective insulatedmold for the ferro-cement deck.

The surplus ends of the four inner layers of mesh fastened to the hullare stapled down to the deckhead lining. Note the 45° beveled edgeto the deck insulation at side.


Four layers of mesh are stapled down.

TASK 1 — Laying First Four Layers of Mesh onDeck

Folded strips of mesh are laid athwartshipsover the deck. The mesh is fastened with a mini-mum of 1/2" (50 mm) staples to the hardboarddeck lining. At the sheer, the 6" (150 mm) stripsof mesh left surplus from the hull mesh arefolded down and stapled over the deck mesh.Two layers of folded strips are laid over thedeck, each strip lapping the next, making fourlayers of mesh in this first application. As aneconomical measure, it is a good idea to useon the deck all short pieces of folded meshwhich have been left over from previous work.

TASK 2 - Weld Longitudinal Reinforcing RodsOver Deck Beams

Reinforcing rods of 1/4" (7 mm) diameterare laid longitudinally over the first four layers ofdeck mesh. The rods are spaced at 3" (75 mm)centers and are welded through the mesh to thetop edges of the deck beams. The top edge of thedeck beam was left clear of the hardboard panelsas described in Job 3, Task 5.

The rods are allowed to run through thebulwarks fore and aft and are clipped off at3" (75 mm) beyond the sheer. Where the rodsencounter a deck aperture they are clipped offat 3" (75 mm) beyond the deck beams. Wherethe rods encounter a deck ventilator coamingthey are butt-welded to the steel coamings.

Longitudinal reinforcing rods are laid over themesh and welded to the top edges of the deckbeams.

Welded longitudinal deck rods, lookingforward.


TASK 3 - Weld Athwartship Reinforcing RodsAbove Deck Longitudinal Rods

Reinforcing rods of 1/4" (7 mm) diameterare laid athwartships over the deck longitudinalreinforcing rods. The rods are spaced at 3" (75mm) centers and are welded to the longitudinalrods.

Athwartship deck rods protrude at thesheer line.

The rods are allowed to run clear throughthe bulwarks to port and starboard. They areclipped off at 3" (75 mm) beyond the sheer.When the rods encounter a deck aperture theyare clipped off at 3" (75 mm) beyond thelongitudinal deck girders. The rods arebutt-welded to the steel ventilator coaming.

Athwartship rods are welded over the decklongitudinal rods. No te rods left projec tingat deck apertures.

Deck rod reinforcing complete.


STAGE 2-JOB 5

TASK 1 - Apply Bulwarks Screed

The screed used to finish the longitudinalinside edge of the bulwarks is 3/4" (19 mm)I.D. piping. The piping is galvanized as part ofit will remain exposed to the weather once thebulwarks have been concreted. This screedruns around the entire hull on the inside edgeof the bulwarks.

The builder's attention is drawn toStage 1, Job 3, Task 8, which describes thefabrication of the bulwark supports on the hullframes. Here provision was made for the longi-tudinal piping screed to nestle into the bulwarksupport at the top of the vertical T-bar screed.(See photograph of completed bulwark supportwhich accompanies the above-mentionedtask.)

Great care must be exercised in layingand bending the screed fairly to the bulwarksas it forms one of the principal eye-catchinglines to the completed hull. For right-'anglecurves in the screed, as the ones required atthe turn of the transom and at the stem-head,a hydraulic pipe-bender should be used. Thecurves of the bulwarks screed at the bow arebest preformed on the lofting floor. Ensurethat good ventilation is available before begin-ning welding work on the piping screed as thegalvanizing releases objectionable fumes.

The procedure is as follows:

1. The 3/4" (19 mm) I.D. galvanized pip-ing is fastened with tie wire to the bul-wark supports along the midships andstern sections.

2. The piping is checked for fairness.The bulwark supports are adjusted bycutting and welding until the pipingscreed lies fair on the supports. Lengthsof piping are butt-welded together.

3. Once fair, the piping screed in themidships and stern sections is weldedto the bulwark supports.

The piping bulwarks screed nestles into thebulwarks supports. Installing the bulwarks screed.


The curves of the piping screed at the bow aredifficult to form and are best pre-formed onthe lofting floor.

Two short lengths of pipe are heatedand bent to conform to the hull profilelines on the lofting floor at the turn ofthe raised bulwarks to the bow. Longerlengths of pipe are taken for inside thebow bulwarks and curved gently on thelofting floor to conform to the shapeof the sheerline. (See Stage 1, Job 1,Task 6, Figure 19.) After checkingfor fairness, the piping screed is weldedto the bulwark supports.

The right-angle curves to the pipingscreed at the turn of the transom andat the stem-head are formed in anhydraulic pipe-bender. The shortpieces at the stem-head are butt-welded into place.

The transom bulwark screed is madelast. The pipe is bent gently to accom-pany the athwartship curve of thetransom. The two sharp curves bentin the hydraulic bender at (par 5) arethen welded to the transom pipingscreed. These curves form reinforcing"knees" to the transom corner of thebulwarks. This complete piece issupported with T-bar struts at threepoints along its length and butt-welded to the port and starboard bul-wark screeds.

Welding the screed into place at the bow.

A pre-formed section of piping screed is weldedinto place at the turn of the raised bulwarksforward.


Longitudinal reinforcing rods accompanyingthe curve of the bulwarks piping screed at thebow. Note that rods are fastened into placewith tie wire prior to welding.

The vertical reinforcing rods had previouslybeen left untrimrned at the sheer. (See Stage 2,Job 1, Task 7.) In practice it is difficult tomeasure the exact point on the hull vertical rodswhere they should be bent over at the sheet tomeet the bulwarks piping screed. This is due,in part, to the fact that the sheer line is a gentlecompound curve. It is further complicated bythe weld distortion which has occurred to thereinforcing framework of the bulwarks. For thisreason pre-bent rods are prepared for formingthe radius at the bulwarks sheer. Existing hullvertical rods are cut off just below the sheerand these pre-bent pieces of rod are lap-weldedto them after fairing and alignment.

The bulwarks sheer rods are made of1/4" (7 mm) diameter rods in exactly the sameway as the starter rods described in Stage 2,Job 1, Tasks 8 and 9.

TASK 2 — Weld Bulwarks Longitudinal Rods

With the galvanized piping screed in place,longitudinal reinforcing rods may now be laid ontop of the horizontal arms of the bulwark sup-ports. Three 1/4-inch (7 mm) diameter rodsare laid at equal spacings on top of the bulwarkssupports and accompany the curve of the pipingscreed. The rods are welded to the bulwarksupports.

TASK 3 — Bend Bulwark Sheer Rods

In service, a ferro-cement hull is alwaysvulnerable to chipping at the bulwarks sheerline. To minimize chances of damage alongthe sheer the bulwarks are neatly roundedoff. This is achieved by giving, first of all,a radius to the vertical rods which form partsof the bulwark reinforcing.

Clipping off excess lengths of vertical rod justbelow the bulwarks sheer line.


TASK 4 - Fair Bulwarks and Weld Sheer Rodsin Place

The hull reinforcing framework at the bul-warks sides must be faired perfectly smoothbefore welding the sheer rods in place. The un-trimmed lengths of vertical reinforcing rod arefirst cut off at 3" (75 mm) below the sheerand the procedure is then as follows:

1. A batten is laid horizontally along theoutside of the bulwarks reinforcingframework and the framework checkedfor fairness.

2. Unfair sections are pounded smoothand fair, checking constantly with theuse of a batten.

3. When a section of bulwarks reinforcingbecomes fair, a batten is temporarilyfastened with wire between two hullframes at a point immediately belowthe bulwarks sheer line.

4. The sheer rods are lap-welded to thevertical reinforcing rods in the bul-warks framework. The vertical posi-tioning of the bulwarks sheer rod isguaranteed by the batten fastened in(par 3). The positioning on the hori-zontal plane is guaranteed by the threeunderlying longitudinal rods whichwere welded in place in Task 2.

5. The horizontal arms of the sheer rodsare cut off at the bulwarks screed.

6. The horizontal arms of the sheer rodsare welded to the galvanized pipingscreed and to the longitudinal reinforc-ing rods.

Using a 2" x 4" (45 mm x 90 mm) batten tofair the bulwarks and align the bulwarks sheerrods.

Clamp made to secure bulwarks sheer rods inplace for welding to piping screed.


Detail at the stem-head.

This procedure is followed all around thebulwarks sheer. The transom and the bow requirethe use of more flexible battens than along thesides. A 2" x 4" (45 mm x 90 mm) piece makesa good batten for the bulwarks sides.

The bulwarks sheer rods at the bow expertlywelded into place.

The bulwarks sheer rods at the bow requireaccurate alignment.


TASK 5 - Fair Hull Steel Reinforcing

It is at this stage in the construction thatthe entire hull steel reinforcing frameworkrequires fairing. The welding has caused dis-tortion to the rod reinforcing between the hullframes. The reinforcing rods, however, aremild steel and pounding with 2-lb (1 kilo) short-handed hammers will soon bring the interveningframework into fair.

The bulwark sides have already beenpounded fair in Task 4. While work proceedson Task 4 (welding the bulwarks sheer rods inplace), the crew who are working on the fairingmay continue working downwards on the hull.The sheer line, where the deck meets the hullsides, is the next critical area to be faired forhere the protruding ends of the deck reinforc-ing rods are to be bent downwards and upwards,alternately, and welded to the hull reinforcingrods.

Fairing the hull reinforcing is a long, pain-staking job. It must be done with great care forany deformity left in the reinforcing frameworkwill eventually show in the concreted hull. Itis recommended that a four-man crew be used:two men to bend the batten to the hull, to sightalong the batten and to give directions to thetwo men with hammers, one inside and one out-side the hull, who will pound the reinforcingframework into shape.

Checking the entire hull reinforcing framework fordeformations caused by welding.

A pliable batten is used as a final check for hull fairness.

Scarcely visible through the hull reinforcing frame-work is a third person who pounds the frameworkoutwards on directions from the two.


TASK 6 - Weld Deck Steel Reinforcing to HullFramework

The protruding ends of the deck reinforcingrods may now be hammered, alternately down-wards and upwards, and lap-welded to the hullvertical reinforcing rods.

The ends of the rods protruding into thedeck apertures and hatches may also be hammereddown and welded to the deck beams and longitu-dinal girders.

The ends of the deck reinforcing rods are weldedone upwards and one downwards, alternately, tothe hull reinforcing framework.

Left: A welder starts work bending over the endsof the deck reinforcing rods and lap-weldingthem to the hull reinforcing framework.


STAGE 2-JOB 6HATCH COAMING AND SCUPPERS

The deck reinforcing is now complete butfor the final four layers of wire mesh which willlater be fastened above the second layer of rods.The next step is to prepare the hatch coamingsteel reinforcing and weld them into place inthe bulwarks.

TASK 1 — Fabricate Hatch Coaming Screeds

The hatch coaming screeds are made from1" x 1" x 1/8" T-bar (25 mm x 25 mm x 3 mm)and are welded together on the welding shopfloor. The dimensions of the required coamingsare shown on Figure 5. It is convenient to takeadvantage of the welding shop floor or a workbench to make their coaming screeds whichare required to be perfectly rectangular andlevel.

The hatch coaming screeds are made from T-bar atthe welder's workbench then welded to vertical rodsplaced around the hatch aperture.

TASK 2 — Weld Hatch Coaming Reinforcingin Place

Vertical reinforcing rods of 1/4" (7 mm)diameter, are welded to the sides of the deckbeams and longitudinal girders which form thedeck apertures. The rods are spaced at 3" (75mm) centers. The procedure is then as follows:

1. The vertical rods are clipped off at aheight of 12" (300 mm) above thedeck.

2. The T-bar screed which was preparedin Task 1 is welded to the vertical rein-forcing rods.

3. Longitudinal rod is welded around allsides of the hatch coaming at 3" (75mm) centers to the vertical rods.

All coamings as shown on Figure 5 are pre-pared in this way.

Welding hatch coaming vertical reinforcingrods into place.


The aft cabin coaming with T-bar screed andlongitudinal reinforcing rods already welded inplace.

TASK 3 - Make Scuppers

The screeds for the scuppers are made from1-1/4" x 1/8" (32 mm x 3 mm) flat bar. A simplejig is required for making the round-end scupperscreeds. It can be made from two short piecesof 21/2" (64 mm) I.D. steel pipe welded verticallyto a common base at 5" (127 mm) centers. Theflat bar is heated and bent around the two pipepieces of the jig and the two ends weldedtogether.

As the scupper screeds will remain exposed tothe weather and are constantly subject to chafingfrom mooring lines, it is recommended that theybe galvanized before welding into place. Sand-blasting and painting with epoxy is an alternativeto galvanizing if chis facility is not available.

A simple jig for forming scupper screeds madefrom two pieces of pipe and scraps of flat bar.

The sides of the coamings are checked for plumb.


A strip of flat bar is heated and bent aroundthe jig, the two ends of the strip of flat barthen welded together.

Removing the scupper screed from the jig.

Scuppers ready for hot dip galvanizing.


TASK 4 - Weld Scuppers in Place

When marking the positions of the scuppersin the bulwarks, allowance must be made for thesurface level of the completed deck. The bottomof the screed must coincide with the level of thedeck to give unimpeded passage to water beingdrained off at sea. The scuppers must also lieperfectly in line with the sheer.

The position of the scuppers are shown onFigures 4 and 5. The profile of the screed is

marked into the bulwarks reinforcing rods andthe intervening rods are cut out. The scupperscreed is then placed into the aperture, and thereinforcing rods butt-welded to the screed. Notethat the screed is left sticking out from the ver-tical reinforcing rods by 1/4" (7 mm). This is toallow for the remaining six outer layers of meshwhich are yet to be fastened to the outside ofthe hull reinforcing. 1-1/4" (32 mm) scupperscreeds are used to allow for the thickness of theradius which builds up between the deck andbulwarks.

An opening is cut into the hull reinforcing frameworkto accommodate the scupper screed.

The scupper screed is welded to the hull reinforcingrods. Its inner edge protrudes marginally beyond thesurface of the mesh to allow for the radius which willbe formed in concrete between the deck and thebulwarks.


STAGE 2-JOB 7MESH DECK, COAMING AND BULWARKS

The deck is now ready to receive the finalfour layers of mesh. The folded strips of meshwill be fastened to the upper layer of the deckreinforcing rods and will be allowed to run upthe insides of the bulwarks.

The hatch coamings require mesh, insideand outside. The outside mesh of the coam-ings will be butted to the mesh covering thedeck.

In general, there are two important con-siderations which the builder must constantlybear in mind when laying and fastening mesh.These are:

1. The layers of mesh are fastened to thewelded steel framework of the hull asone continuous, taut covering. Alljoints of mesh are staggered. Themesh covering hatch coaming and deckknees, for example, is butted to themesh surrounding these structures onthe deck and hull. No laps are permis-sible in mesh work. If the mesh islapped one layer over another mortarpenetration will become difficult whereany extra layers of mesh have built up.Resist the temptation to lap the meshfrom hatch coamings to deck mesh,bulkheads to hull mesh, for mortarpenetration will be extremely difficultat these joints. 100% mortar penetra-tion in corners is far more desirablethan extra mesh in these areas whichbecome riddled with voids in the con-crete. The joint between the hull andthe deck, or the deck and the cabin (ifa concrete cabin is used) is the onlyjoint which is under stress. Both ofthese joints can be adequately rein-forced with steel rods which do a muchbetter job than mesh.

The final layers of mesh are those whichmake contact with the plasterers'trowels. For this reason the final layersof mesh must be laid and fastened withspecial care. The surface is required tobe taut and flat. If any loose ends ofsurface mesh are not meticulouslyfastened down with staples the plas-terer's trowel will inevitably find it,will snag in the mesh, and the immedi-ate area becomes impossible to plasterproperly.

The decks and broad surfaces of thehull are relatively easy to inspect forloose ends of mesh on the eve ofplastering day. Stringers and deckknees, in particular, the inner and under-sides of the bulwarks, require more dili-gent inspection. It is clearly moredesirable to have conscientious meshwork carried out in these areas rightfrom the beginning.

Fastening mesh to the deck, coamings andbulwarks.


TASK 1 — Laying Four Layers of Mesh AboveDeck Reinforcing Rods

The deck mesh has run up inside the bul-warks and, where possible, has been turnedunder the bulwarks cap and trimmed off at thescreed of galvanized piping. Here, again, thetrimmed mesh edges must be well fasteneddown at the screed and tightly tied at the turnof the bulwarks to the underside of the cap. Itis an awkward corner to work to and, if notproperly done, will make the plasterer's workdoubly difficult.

Where the deck mesh has turned upwardsat the insides of the bulwarks the mesh has tra-versed the open top of a "V"-shaped crevicewhere the beveled edge of the deck mold joinsthe hull. This "V"-shaped crevice at the decksheer is designed to form a good strong, water-tight bond between deck and hull and mortarwill be well vibrated into this crevice on plaster-ing day. It is important that the mesh is wellfastened down at the edge of the deck, mold

and also at the upwards turn inside the bulwarksin order to facilitate the plasterer's work. If themesh work is not properly fastened down, tooheavy a build-up of concrete will occur at thisjoint.

Other awkward areas to mesh are the turnof the transom bulwarks and inside the bulwarksat the stem. Pieces of mesh must be cut to fitthese areas. The edges of these small mesh piecesoften require fastening down with tie wire.

Where mesh terminates at a screed, thefollowing procedure should be adopted.

1. Cut 16 or 18 gauge soft annealed tiewire into 2' (610 mm) lengths.

2. Weave the wire through the mesh aroundthe corner reinforcing rod pulling themesh in tight to the corner.

3. Twist tie the ends of tie wire togetherwhere one joins another. Bend thetwist into the mesh.

The topmost layers of mesh are allowed to runupwards on the inside of the bulwarks, thenterminate under the bulwarks cap.

Fastening the ends of the strips of deck mesh tothe bulwarks and under the cap.


Folded strips of mesh are laid athwartshipsover the deck reinforcing rods and fastened downwith hog ring staples. The mesh is allowed to runup inside the bulwarks and underneath the cap.When the mesh encounter coamings it is runup the sides of the coamings and trimmed offat the coaming screed. Four layers of mesh arelaid down in strips folded double. The firstapplications of strips of folded mesh is fullylapped by the second with particular attentionbeing paid to all edges being stapled down flatand to a good surface tension being maintainedon the mesh.

TASK 2 - Mesh Coaming and Bulwarks

The hatch coamings are meshed insideand outside until four layers of mesh havebeen built up on both sides. As was explainedin Task 1, some of the mesh was applied to thecoaming sides when the deck mesh was beinglaid down. The mesh is trimmed off at thecoaming screed of T-bar in such a way that thehorizontal arm of the "T" overlaps the trimmededges. The mesh ends must be well laced downclose to the T-bar screed so as to avoid snaggingwith the plasterer's trowel.

Trimming and fastening strips of mesh on deck.

Forepeak hatch coaming meshed inside. The meshhas yet to be laced tightly to form sharp, verticalcorners inside the coaming.

The forward deck partially meshed.


Narrow folded strips of mesh are applied to bothsides of the stringers and the sole supports.

Fastening mesh to the stringer up forward.

STAGE 2-JOB 8STRINGERS AND SOLE SUPPORTS

The deck, with its coamings and bulwarks,has received its final layer of mesh. There remainsa series of jobs to be done inside the hull, how-ever, before the six outer layers of mesh can befastened to the hull. The reason for this is thatevery one of the jobs which will be describedhere require welding to the hull steel reinforcingframework. Clearly, this welding work will bemore advantageously carried out without theimpediment of overlying mesh.

TASK 1 - Mark Sole Support Positions

The level of the cabin soles, or floors, runparallel to the hull waterlines and the Base Line.The positions of these soles, which differ in thethree hull compartments which call for them, areshown on Figure 6, entitled "Inboard Profile andFrame Groups."

The ideal point of reference to measure allthe soles is the mark of Water Line No. 5 whichwas lightly sawn onto the hull frame rods in Stage1, Job, 1, Task 11. Measurements are made fromWater Line No. 5 and chalked onto the hull framerod.

TASK 2 - Weld Sole Support Starter Rods

Starter rods, prepared in the bending jig, arewelded to the hull frame rods at the chalk marksmade on the hull frame rods. While the starterrods are still soft with welding heat the inner pro-jecting arm of the starter rod is bent into an hori-zontal position with the aid of a spirit level. Therod is then clipped off inside at a distance of3" (75 mm) from the hull frame.

In welding the outer arm of the starter rodthe same procedure is followed as with the weldingof the Diagonal "D" Stringer starter rods in Stage 2,Job 1, Task 10. The outer arms are welded on thediagonal to the hull vertical and longitudinal rein-forcing rods.


TASK 3 - Weld Sole Support Screeds

A steel screed of 1" x 1" x 1/8" T-bar (25mm x 25 mm x 3 mm) is bent to conform to thecurve of the hull side at the line of the sole sup-port. The T-bar screed is then welded to the tipsof the inner arms of the sole support starterrods. The horizontal arm of the "T" is weldedstrictly in a horizontal position so when thesole support is finally meshed and plastered itwill provide one level horizontal support forthe sole joists.

Once the T-bar screed is levelled and weldedin place additional starter rods may be weldedbetween the screed and the hull vertical rein-forcing rods. The T-bar screed terminates atthe fore and aft bulkheads of each compart-ment. No longitudinal reinforcing rods areused in the sole supports.

TASK 5 - Mesh Sole Supports and Diagonal "D"Stringers

The sole supports and stringers are meshedon their upper and lower sides with foldedstrips of mesh. These strips are merged with theinner layers of mesh to the hull. The mesh issecurely fastened down with hog ring staplesand tie wire.

TASK 4 - Weld Diagonal "D" Stringer Screeds

As shown in Figures 1 and 4, the stringerson the Diagonal "D" Line run the entire lengthof the hull passing through all the compartmentbulkheads. The positioning and welding of thestringer starter rods was described in Stage 2,Job 1, Task 10. Constructional details of thestringers are shown on Figure 7.

Lengths of T-bar screed are welded to thetips of the projecting arms of the starter rodsand faired to run true with the line of Diagonal"D." The lengths of T-bar screed are termi-nated 3" (76 mm) inside each bulkhead. If theT-bars are run through the bulkheads leaks willoccur at these areas. The position of the T-barscreed in relation to the starter rods is that thevertical arms of the "T" accompany the pro-jecting angle of the arm of the starter rodthroughout.

Three longitudinal 1/4" (7 mm) diameterreinforcing rods are welded to the inner arms ofthe starter rods at equal spacings and accompany-ing the curve of the T-bar screed.


These T-bar screeds for the top of the engine bedsare first prepared on the welder's workbench.

STAGE 2-JOB 9INSTALLATION OF ENGINE BEDS ANDSTERN TUBES

The reinforcing for the twin engine beds, thestern tubes and the rudder stuffing box supportsare the last of the internal structures which re-quire welding to the hull reinforcing frameworkbefore applying the final layers of mesh to thehull exterior. The siting of these parts andstructures is critical and requires accuratepreparatory work on the part of the builders.

Figures 7 and 8 provide the necessarydetails for construction and installation.

TASK 1 - Mark Engine Bed Positions

The construction details for the enginebeds shown in Figures 6 and 8 show that the topsurfaces of the beds are edged with T-bar screed.The T-bar specified is 1" x 1" x 1/8" (25 mmx 25 mm x 3 mm). The procedure for markingthe engine bed positions is as follows:

1) Two smoothly finished, straightwooden battens are prepared. Idealdimensions of these battens should be:13 ft. x 3/4" (4 m x 20 mm x 20 mm).

2. The terminal positions of the 8 T-barscreeds on an horizontal plane (that isto say, as the T-bar screeds strike thefore and aft engine room bulkheads)are marked onto the two wooden bat-tens. The center line is also markedonto the battens.

3. One wooden batten is fastened withtie wire to the forward engine roombulkhead at a position which is accu-rately centered and horizontal. Theheight of the batten on the bulkheadis that which places the bottom faceof the horizontal batten at exactly theheight of the top face of the tip ofthe T-bar screed. A second batten isfastened in the same manner to theaft engine bulkhead. Note that thereis a considerable difference in heightsto the two horizontal battens as theengines and stringers are installed at aninclination of 1:7.

TASK 2 — Fabricate Engine Bed Screeds

The T-bar screeds to the engine beds aremade up in pairs on the welder's work bench.The welder obtains the correct lengths to theT-bar by measuring from the batten fastened tothe forward engine room bulkhead to the battenfastened to the aft engine room bulkhead. Todiscover the correct length of the outer enginebearers the welder is obliged to weld the innerbearers in place first. Then, with the use of aspirit level, laid across from the inner bearer, thespot in the hull framework where the bearerterminates can be established. From this spot tothe forward bulkhead will give the length of thebearer screed.


The screeds are welded together in pairs bymeans of 1/4" (7 mm) diameter reinforcing rodscut to a length which gives exactly 120 mm(approximately 4-3/4") from outside edge tooutside edge. Each pair is welded flat and levelon the work bench.

Four bolts will later be welded fast betweeneach of the pairs of screeds. The purpose of thesebolts is to secure the engine bearer steel membersto the engine beds. Where a bolt is located twoscreed joining rods are welded which will pass onboth sides of the bolts and lend it support. Thespacings and sizes of the bolts are shown inFigure 8.

TASK 3 — Install Engine Bed Reinforcing

The procedure for installing the completeengine bed steel reinforcing is as follows:

1. The pre-fabricated screeds to the innerengine bed bearers are welded in placeto the bulkhead steel reinforcing gridsat the positions indicated by the markedbattens. Athwartships level is checkedwith a spirit level.

2. The formed edge of the outer enginebearer screeds are welded in place.The aft edge is trimmed and weldedin place to the hull side reinforcingframework, its exact spot being estab-lished with the aid of a spirit level laidacross from the inner engine bearer.

3. When all four engine bed screeds aresatisfactorily installed, vertical rein-forcing rod may be welded to theunderside of the T-bar screeds andallowed to pass through the hull rein-forcing framework. The rods are bentover at the underside of the hull rein-forcing framework and welded to thehull rods.

Welding the T-bar screed assemblies accurately intoplace. Note the spirit level, also the marking battenfastened to the bulkhead.

A spirit level is used from the inner engine bedT-bar screeds to assess the positioning of theend of the outer T-bar screeds.

The shape of the T-bar screed to the web below theengine sump.


The four 5/8" x 8" (15.88 mm x 203mm) bolts for securing the enginebearer steel members are now weldedin place between the T-bar screed join-ing rods. The bolts are checked foralignment and plumb with the use ofset square and builder's line. Longi-tudinal reinforcing rods are welded toone side of these heads and shanks ofthe bolts as an additional safeguard.(The purpose of putting this longitu-dinal reinforcing on only one side ofthe bolt shanks is to allow passage forthe pencil vibrator to be inserted deepinto the engine beds at the time ofplastering.)

Longitudinal reinforcing rods of1/4" (7 mm) diameter are welded tothe vertical reinforcing rods at 3"(75 mm) centers. Note that a rod islaid along the base of the engine beds,wherever possible, so that mesh canbe fastened tightly at the base of thisstructure.

The outer side of the outer engine bear-ers takes additional reinforcing in theform of a face inclined at 45° and join-ing to the hull reinforcing framework.This same reinforcing procedure isrepeated at the base of both sides of theinner engine bearers.

7. At Station 12 a reinforcing web is runathwartships, traversing the enginebearers. The web is topped with aT-bar screed. Where allowance has to bemade for the low-slung sumps of thefuture engines the T-bar screed is shapedaccordingly.

When welding the steel reinforcing to theengine beds and joining it to the hull frameworkcare should be taken to avoid dense build-ups ofrod and T-bar. Although the resulting structuremay appear gratifyingly strong in these areas, itwill often make penetration of the concreteextremely difficult. Voids are likely to form inthe hollows of the T-bars and beneath longitudinalreinforcing rods. If a leak appears, is dis-covered and patched, water will sometimescourse through the neighboring voids and thesame leak reappear elsewhere.

Welding vertical reinforcing rods from the T-barscreed down through the hull framework.

Marking the positions of the engine mount bolts.


Welding vertical reinforcing rods alongside theexisting web on Station No. 12.

Engine mount bolts welded into place.

Note additional reinforcing at outer base of enginebeds in the form of an inclined 45° face.

Tapered fairing at the ends of the outerengine bearers.

Detail of 45° reinforcing at the aft end of the innerengine bearers.

Page 154 VOLUME I STAGE 2-JOB 9

Stern tube with 4-bolt assembly for securing thepropeller shaft stuffing box housing. The sterntube is temporarily suspended in place awaitingalignment.

TASK 4 — Fabricate Stern Tubes

The two stern tubes are cut 5" (122 mm) I.D.Schedule 40 black steel pipe. The length of thestern tubes is such that they project beyond thecalculated thickness of the hull shell after con-creting. The tubes will be trimmed to conformto the exterior surface of the completed hullafter curing.

The engine room end of the stern tubesreceives a small framework of reinforcing rodwhich support four bolts. The four bolts, 5/8"x 8" (15.88 mm x 203 mm), will secure thefuture propeller shaft stuffing box housing. Forthe sake of accuracy, the four bolts are bestwelded together on the work bench within thesmall rod framework. The framework, completewith projecting bolts, is then welded squarely tothe stern tube. Figure 9 explains how this isdone; the accompanying illustrations also givea clear indication.

Even though the stern tubes when installedwill be covered with a faired, reinforced concretehousing, additional measures should be takenagainst potential sources of leaks. It is difficultto achieve perfect penetration of mortar aroundthe smooth cylindrical surface of the stern tube.It is recommended, therefore, that a length ofnarrow flat bar or reinforcing rod be weldedaround the circumference of the stern tube at acentral point of its length to serve as a "stop-water" when embedded in the concrete housing.

Affixing thin rubber bands diagonally across thestuffing box bolts.


TASK 5 — Prepare Stern Tube Alignment Sights

The position and the inclination of theengine beds determine the ultimate alignmentof the stern tubes. The following informationmust be collected and assessed before work canbegin on alignment:

a.) The combined height of the rubberpad and the steel engine bearers plusan assessment for the shims. (Detailsof the rubber pad, steel engine bearermembers and shims will be foundon Figure 6.)

b.) The measurement from the axis ofthe propeller shaft to the contactingsurface of the support brackets onthe engine. (This measurement willdepend, of course, upon the choiceof engine. For GM six-cylinder dieselengines, designation 64 HN 9, thismeasurement is calculated at 7/8"(22.23 mm) but builders are advisedto confirm the date of manufactureof this model as the support bracketsto the engine are reported to varyaccording to year of manufacture.

c.) With the results of the data collectedin (par a) and (par b) calculate therequired height of the axis of the pro-peller shaft above the top surface ofthe T-bar screeds. In the case ofthe 6M 64HN9 engine this height iscalculated at 3.937" (100 mm) butcan be slightly higher if thicker engineshims are preferred.

The intersection of the two rubber bands formingthe "X" alignment sight.

The aft "V"-aperture sight accurately fastened inplace to the engine beds. Not visible is a second"V"-aperture sight mounted at the forward endof the engine beds.


With the date from (par. a, b, and c) dulyassessed the alignment sights may now be made.The equipment for the alignment sights is asfollows:

1. Take four straight pieces of 3" x 1 /8"(75 mm x 3 mm) steel flat bar (twopieces for each engine bed) and cutthem approximately 12" (300 mm)long. At the center point of theirrespective lengths drill one neat 1/4"(7 mm) hole at the distance of 1"(25 mm) from the edge of the flatbar. From the center point of thedrilled hole to the edge of the flatbar mark and saw a perfect "V" with45° arms. The resulting piece of flatbar now forms a "V"-aperture sightof the pattern sometimes used as abacksight on rifles.

2. The "V"-aperture sights are nowscrewed to a length of 2" x 4" (45mm x 90 mm) lumber. The heightof the center point of the hole at thebase of the "V" is set at exactly 3.937"(100 mm) from the base of the lumber.

3. Each pair of "V"-aperture sightsscrewed to its wooden base is then setacross the T-bar screeds of the enginebeds, one at each end. The center linerunning between the parallel enginebearers is determined and the centerpoints of the two "V"-aperture sightsset upon this center line. The twowooden bases are then temporarilyfastened with tie wire to the T-barscreeds.

4. A different set of sights is now pre-pared. This consists of a piece of card-board cut to fit inside the stern tube.At its center a 1/2" (13 mm) hole iscut out to serve as a round aperturesight. The cardboard sight is insertedinto the stern tube at about 2" (45mm) from the end.

The remaining equipment required to com-plete the alignment sights is a good light whichcan be hung from the deckhead of the engine

room and piece of white cardboard or plywood toserve as a back-drop. This back-drop will bepropped against the forward engine room bulk-head in order to make the "X" and "V" sightsstand out clearly when viewing through thestern tube round aperture sight.

TASK 6 - Align and Weld Stern Tubes in Place

Everything is now ready to align and weldthe stern tubes in place. The first step is to resta light wooden batten in the "V"-aperture sightsin their positions on the engine bed and notewhere the tip of the batten strikes the aft engineroom bulkhead. Using this spot as a center pointcut an approximately 9" (225 mm) square aper-ture around this point in the bulkhead mesh androd reinforcing. Proceed in the same mannerwith the second engine bed. Then draw thebatten through the bulkhead aperture, still rest-ing in the "V"-aperture sights, and note wherethe tip of the batten strikes the hull. Here thehull reinforcing framework must be cut throughpractically to the web at Station 6. The widthof the aperture should be at least 6" (150 mm)to give lateral play to the stern tube when placedhere for alignment. Proceed in the same mannerfor the second stern tube aperture, then:

1. Suspend the stern tubes from wires intheir appointed apertures. Note thatthe stuffing box bolts should protrudewell into the engine room past theface of the aft engine room bulkhead.One set of suspension wires can befastened from the bulkhead reinforcingto the forward rod of the frameworkwhich supports the stuffing box bolts.The second set of suspension wirescan be passed around the aft end ofthe stern tube and fastened to the hullframework.


2. At this stage only the forward end ofthe stern tube is in alignment. Thereremains to bring the round aperturesight into perfect alignment with thetwo "V"-apertures and the "X"-sight.For this purpose the man stationedabaft the engine room bulkhead willadjust the aft suspension wires untilthe view through the stern tubesights will closely resemble thisfollowing symbol: (X) . At thisstage, with the center point of theround aperture sight in alignmentwith the intersection point of the"X" which, in turn, is in alignmentwith the center points of the two"V"-sights, the welder may proceedto weld the stern tube in place withshort pieces of reinforcing rod. Thefuture engine and sterngear will betruly aligned.

The stern tubes should be reinforcedin their positions after alignment.Short pieces of reinforcing rod may bebutt-welded at 45° angles from thestern tubes to the adjacent hull frame-work. Longitudinal pieces of rod arethen welded above to form the frame-work for a streamlined housing abovethe stern tube.

Station one man close to the suspen-sion wires. Station a second manwith welding equipment at the readyclose to the aft suspension wires.Both men should exercise care thattheir weight does not disturb the hullreinforcing framework while thealignment process is being carried out.

Station a third man with a good "eye"for alignment (preferably a good rifle-man) beneath the hull at the aft endof the stern tube.

As the man stationed at (par 4} peersthrough the round aperture sight at theaft end of the stern tube he will notethat the two "V"-aperture sights onthe engine beds are perfectly aligned,that the "X" sight at the far end ofthe stern tube is not aligned. He willthen direct his helper in the engineroom to adjust the suspension wiresuntil the intersection point of the "X"sight lies directly in line with the centerpoints at the base of the two "V"-aperture sights. As an additional aidin alignment he will note that upperarms of the "X"-sight will accompanythe angle of the "V"-apertures.

The openings cut into the bulkhead and the hullframework for the positioning of the stern tube.

Faired reinforcing framework to secure the sterntube in place.


TASK 7 - Mesh Engine Beds and Stern Tubes

Four layers of mesh are fastened with hogring staples to the engine bed reinforcing frame-work and to the housings over the stern tubes.The mesh is applied tautly and butted to thesurrounding interior meshwork on the bulk-heads and hull.

Fastening mesh over the stern tube housing.

STAGE 2-JOB 10INSTALL RUDDER STUFFING BOXSUPPORTS

TASK 1 - Prepare Rudder Stuffing BoxHousings

The design calls for twin rudders. The loca-tion of the rudder shafts and the stuffing box, orgland, housings is in the steering compartment,the aftermost compartment of the hull. Detailsof construction will be found in Figure 8.

The rudder stuffing box housings will bebest prepared at the welder's work bench. Thesame pipe stock is used as for the stern tubes,5" (127 mm) I.D. Schedule 40 steel pipe, cutin this application to two lengths of 10" (254mm). For securing the stuffing box six boltsare used, size 5/8" x 6" (15.88 mm x 152.4mm). Fabrication procedure is as follows:

The engine beds are meshed.

1. A length of 1"x 1/2" (25mm x 3 mm)flat bar is taken, heated, and bent into acircle with an outside diameter of 12"(300mm).

2. A length of 1/4" (7 mm) diameter rein-forcing bar is taken, heated, and bent intoa ring with an outside diameter of 9-3/4"(250mm).

3. Two circular covers are prepared from1/4" (7 mm) steel plate with an outsidediameter of 12" (300mm). Six holesare then drilled into the plate of equalcenters on a concentric circle of 8-5/8"(220 mm), the holes being for the 5/8"(15.88 mm) stuffing box securing bolts.These cover plates will serve two pur-poses. They will serve as a jig forholding the bolts in the next step, (4),and will act as a screed to produce afair level surface when the stuffing boxhousings are eventually concreted. Themortar will be poured into the housings,vibrated, and then topped with an excessof mortar. The plate will then be gradu-ally fastened down over the fresh mortarusing a spirit level to maintain the plateabsolutely level.


4. The six bolts for securing the stuffingbox are welded to the inner circum-ference of the ring prepared in (par 2).To ensure that the bolts are first fas-tened with nuts to the plate preparedin (par 3), the bolts are welded to thering at the underside of the head andthe start of the shank.

5. The circular screed, or band, preparedin (par 1) is now welded to the boltassembly prepared in (par 4) and tothe section of piping. Short pieces ofrod are butt-welded to the pipe and tothe inner circumference of the screed,the pipe being placed at center, andthe upper end of the pipe made levelwith the upper edge of the screed,the short, connecting pieces of rodare positioned to make contact withthe shanks of the six bolts. Thethreaded section of the bolts is leftprotruding above the level of thescreed.

6. A length of 1" x 1" x 1/8" (25 mmx 25 mm x 3 mm) T-bar is now weldedbetween the two prepared rudder stuff-ing box housings. The ends of theT-bar are welded to the outer circum-ference of the flat bar screeds. Theassembly is welded on the work bench,carefully checked that all parts arelevel and aligned, and the length ofthe interconnecting T-bar calculatedto place the axis of the two futurerudder shafts at exactly 59.05" (1500mm). The T-bar connecting the tworudder stuffing box housings is thenmarked at center.

TASK 2 - Mark Rudder Stuffing Box Positions

The purpose of connecting the two hous-ings in the previous task has been to eask thework of establishing the position of the housingsin the steering compartment. Principal measure-ments are given in Figure 8. The procedure isas follows:

Cutting sections of pipe to form rudder stuff ingbox housings.

Establishing the position of the twin rudderstuffing box assembly.


1. A plumb line is suspended at the cor-rect distance aft of the bulkhead atStation No. 3. The tip of the plumbbob is lowered to the required levelof the rudder stuffing box housings,this measurement being ascertainedby reading off from the waterlineNo. 5 brace rods welded to StationsNos. 1 and 2.

2. The twin rudder stuffing box housingsconnected with the length of T-barscreed are placed in the steering com-partment. The assembly is thenchocked into position with the plumbline touching the center mark on theT-bar screed.

3. The rudder stuffing box housingassembly is then checked for level,fore and aft, port and starboard.

4. The distance from the bulkhead atStation No. 3 adjacent to the axis ofthe two housings is now checked andadjusted. The assembly is now per-fectly level and aligned.

5. The area where the bottom edgesof the piping pieces in the housingsmake contact with the hull reinforc-ing framework is marked. The com-plete assembly is temporarilyremoved.

TASK 3 - Install Rudder Stuffing Box Housingsand Fabricate Supports

The twin areas for the rudder stuffing boxhousings marked in the previous task are now cutthrough the hull reinforcing framework. Theassembly is again placed in position, this timethe top of the plumb bob must just touch thecenter mark on the T-bar screed connecting thetwo rudder stuffing box housings. The tip ofthe plumb bob marks the required height of theupper surface of the housings (the top surfaceof the T-bar screed is, of course, on the samelevel).

The same procedure as was carried out in theprevious task must now be repeated in order tolevel and align the assembly in its final position.Once satisfactorily in position the rudder stuffingbox housing assembly may be welded to theadjoining hull reinforcing framework with shortpieces of rod.

Figure 8 shows how the supports are made tothe rudder stuffing box assembly. It will notethat these supports are in the form of webs radi-ating from the central housings. Fabrication pro-cedure is as follows:

1. The T-bar connecting the twin rudderstuffing box housings now forms thescreed for the central athwartships web.Outer extensions are made to port andstarboard, the T-bar screed descendingat the angle prescribed on the plans tomeet the hull reinforcing framework.

Welding the twin rudder stuffing box assemblyinto place.


2. T-bar screeds are now fore and aft fromthe housings. The forward screed runsparallel with the water line to join thebulkhead reinforcing at Station No. 3.The aft screeds descend at an angle tojoin the hull reinforcing framework.(Note that in all cases where T-barscreed joins the hull reinforcing frame-work or a bulkhead that it is advisableto cut off a short section of the flatupper surface of the T-bar to ensuregood mortar penetration at the joint.)

3. Vertical reinforcing rod is welded tothe outside of the T-bar screeds andallowed to pass through the hullreinforcing framework to remainuntrimmed for a length of threeinches (75 mm).

4. Longitudinal rods are welded to thesupporting webs at 3" (75 mm)centers.

5. Untrimmed ends of the vertical rein-forcing rods are bent over and lap-welded to the hull reinforcingframework. Fastening mesh to the stuffing box supports.

TASK 4 -Supports

Mesh Rudder Stuffing Box

Four layers of mesh are fastened to therudder stuffing box supports with hog ringstaples. The mesh is trimmed neatly to theunderside of the T-bar screeds and stretchedflat and taut with the staples. The mesh istrimmed at the joint of support webs to hullso as to achieve good mortar penetration.

Plan view of the rudder stuffing box supportshowing the bolt assembly.


STAGE 2-JOB 11HULL EXTERIOR MESH

The hull steel reinforcing framework hasbeen completed and has been faired true. Thelast of the steel reinforcing rods which formpart of internal structures such as stringers,engine beds, etc., have been welded to the hullreinforcing and no further welding work isrequired to this framework. An inspection ofthe hull at this stage reveals the stern tubesand rudder stuffing box housings installed, alldeck and hull interior mesh work completed.There remains to modify the external bracingto the hull so that the final, outer layers ofmesh can be fastened to the hull withouthindrance.

TASK 1 - Modify Hull External Supports andBraces

The lateral bracing to the scaffolding sup-ports at Waterline No. 5 must now be removedto facilitate the work of applying the outerlayers of mesh to the hull. It is recommendedthat the wooded blocks for supporting the keel,which will be required at the start of Stage 3,be prepared at this time. The wooden blocksmay be temporarily placed under the keel andsecured with wedges while the work of cuttingaway the lateral braces proceeds.

The lateral braces will be replaced withoverhead diagonal braces of 1/2" (13 mm) rodrunning from the top of the steel pipe pillarssupporting the overhead structure down to thehull suspension rods at a height of 3" (75 mm)above the deck. Diagonal braces will be run toport and starboard but are not required at everyhull station; every second station will give suffi-cient lateral rigidity to the suspended hull. Oncethe diagonal bracing is welded in place the keelsupport blocks may be removed for they willinterfere with the mesh work which is to follow.

TASK 2 - Apply Outer Layers of Mesh to Hull

Before starting work on the mesh work tothe exterior of the hull it is recommended thatquantities of mesh be cut and folded on the meshbenches in advance and that all personnel beissued the following tools:

1 — Carpenter's apron.

1 — Pair hog ring pliers and a supply ofhog rings

1 — Pair plain pliers

1 — Roll of 18-gauge tie wire

1 — Claw hammer

The personnel will also equip themselves witha short piece of rod for stretching the mesh and ashort block of wood suitable for pounding themesh. Supplies of hog ring staples will bechecked beforehand. The larger, 3/4" (20 mm)size of hog ring staple will be used only in thoseplaces where a mesh fastening has to be made atan intersection of two reinforcing rods. Thesmaller, 1/2" (13 mm) size will be used ingreater quantities and is applied where mesh isfastened to a reinforcing rod.

Illustrating the concentration of reinforcingrods at the stem and the consequent need forless mesh at this point for achieving betterconcrete penetration.


Six layers of 1" (25 mm) x 21 gauge hex-agonal mesh, galvanized after weaving, will befastened to the hull framework exterior. Thepoints to consider, when applying this mesh,are these:

1. Work starts amidships and proceedsfore and aft.

2. The folded strips of mesh are firstsecured to the bulwarks' cap thenpulled downwards over the hullsides in as vertical a plane as possible.The hull frames and vertical reinforc-ing rods serve as guides to the align-ment of the mesh.

3. Short pieces of rod, inserted into themesh and into the hull framework, canbe used to lever the mesh taut. A mini-mum of staples is recommended forfastening the first four layers of mesh.

4. The mesh is left temporarily untrimmedat the keel, stem and transom.

All strips of folded mesh are butted,one to the other, as fastening proceedson the hull. The butt-joints of thestrips beneath.

At the bulwarks' cap the mesh istrimmed at the inside edge of the pip-ing screed and the loose ends of meshtucked downwards between the screedand the inner-most of the longitudinalreinforcing rods.

At the scupper screeds a similar proce-dure is followed: Here loose ends ofmesh are tucked down the outside edgeof the screed. I n this way the screedwill finish fair with the surface of theconcrete.

Loose ends of mesh are tucked neatly inside thescupper screed.

Fastening the hull exterior mesh. The strips of folded mesh are butted one to the other,overlying joints being staggered. The first four layersrequire few staples.


Trimming the mesh back at 6" (150 mm) fromthe stem.

8. The final two of the six outer layers ofmesh are laid with more tension andwith more use of fasteners than the pre-vious layers. Hog ring staples are appliedat 4" (100 mm) centers to ensure thatthe mesh lies absolutely tight and fairto the hull framework. Care is taken toprevent the hexagonal "eyes" of theoverlying layers of mesh aligning withthose beneath.

9. At the stem and forefoot the mesh istrimmed back bare to the reinforcingrods for a distance of approximately6" (150 mm). The reason for this is theexisting accumulation of reinforcingrods in this vicinity. If the layers ofmesh were allowed to build up abovethis relatively dense framework of rod,penetration would be made extremelydifficult on plastering. With penetra-tion difficult the likely outcome is leaks.Only a single strip of folded mesh will befastened down the stem and under theforefoot. The edges of the mesh will befastened with lacings of tie wire.

Lacing one folded strip of mesh over the stemand forefoot

The strips of mesh are trimmed to shape and everyloose end carefully fastened down.


10. Similarly, at the keel, the mesh willbe trimmed back to just above the turnof the underneath section. Here, again,only a single folded strip of mesh willbe fastened to the underneath section.The reason here is to allow the loosemortar to fall completely through themesh at the opening stages of plaster-ing. Note that although only twolayers of mesh are applied at the stemand beneath the keel, neither sectionwill lack for strength. Both are rein-forced with 5-1/2" (13 mm) diametersteel rods plus a grid of 1/4" (7 mm)diameter rods. The keel and stem willreceive an exterior plastering at thefirst stage, then both will receive asecond plastering, well vibrated, atthe second stage after steam curing.

11. As the mesh fastening proceeds aftalong the hull and reaches the transom,it is worked over the edge and fastenedto the transom reinforcing framework.The transom mesh is butted, one stripto another, as on the hull sides. Thejoints of overlying mesh are staggeredwith those below and carried aroundthe transom edge. The object is toprevent a thick concentration of meshat the transom edge which inhibitsgood mortar penetration.

TASK 3 — Fairing, Cleaning and FinalInspection of Mesh

The outer layers of mesh will now be faired,cleaned, and finally inspected before makingpreparations for the next stage in construction,which is the plastering.

Fairing, cleaning and final inspection arecarried out with the requirements of the plaster-ing operation borne very much in mind. If onlyin the inspectors' imagination, a steel trowel isscraped over every square inch of the surfacemesh, inside the hull and outside, and a snagfor the trowel is sought. When that snag isfound it is put right, for, on plastering day,it will be too late to start re-working meshwhich has been carelessly fastened.

Loose ends of mesh discovered at the base of asuspension rod on deck. These loose ends will betucked down and the mesh faired flat around thebase of the rod.

It cannot be emphasized too strongly theimportance of final fairing and mesh inspection.It is as well to remember that any mistake inmeshwork, or deformation in fairing will, if notrectified before plastering day, become perma-nently immured in hardened concrete. It willbecome an ineffaceable reminder of a piece ofwork not done quite right. Here is a procedureto follow for final inspection of the mesh:

1. With the use of wooden, hand-heldblocks pound the mesh flat and fairto the hull framework. Take carethat the mesh does not becomepounded hollow between the reinforc-ing rods.

2. Check the fairing of the mesh withparticular attention at:

b)

Bulwarks cap and sheer.

Stem and forefoot.

c) Transom edge.

d) Along the deck sheer line to thebulwarks interior.

e) Beneath the bulwarks cap.


f) Hatch coamings, also alongstringers and sole supports.

g) Inside corners of the hatchcoamings; ensure that they aresharp and laced tightly.

3. Check for loose ends of mesh at everyjoint on deck and inside and outsidethe hull. Fasten down any loose endor protruding staple which might snagthe plasterer's trowel. Check with par-ticular attention the underside of allscreeds on coamings, bulwarks, enginebeds, webs and stringers. Tuck inloose ends beneath the screeds.

4. Ensure that the surface of the mesh istaut. Check that hog ring staples andtie wire are securing the mesh to thehull framework at 4" (100 mm) centers.

5. Check the inside of the keel and thebilges for scraps of waste material.Extract by hand all reject ends of weld-ing rods. Use a vacuum cleaner onscraps of wood and insulation materialwhich have been caught in the mesh.

Once absolutely satisfied that the hull mesh-work is as tight and as clean as it can be made,and that it lies fair on the hull framework, prep-arations can begin for plastering.

The reason for the mesh inspection: a neglectedarea between the deck and bulwarks. The meshwill be fastened tightly to the bulwarks to forma neat radius with the deck surface.

Ends of mesh are tucked down between thebulwarks piping screed and the first longitudinalreinforcing rod.

VOLUME I Page 167

- END VOLUME I -

FOR PLASTERING DETAILS OF THIS HULL

REFER TO

VOLUME II

http://www.boatdesign.net/ferro/

Documents

Ferro-Cement Boat Building Manual Volume 1