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ITINERARY

ETHIOPIA: Endemic Birds & Ethiopian Wolf April 4-24, 2014

Churches of Lalibela Extension April 24-27, 2014

We include here information for those interested in the 2014 Field Guides Ethiopia: Endemic Birds & Ethiopian Wolf tour: ⎯ a general introduction to the tour ⎯ a description of the birding areas to be visited on the tour ⎯ an abbreviated daily itinerary with some indication of the nature of each dayʼs birding outings Those who register for the tour will be sent this additional material: ⎯ an annotated list of the birds recorded on a previous yearʼs Field Guides trip to the area, with comments by guide(s) on notable species or sightings (may be downloaded from our web site) ⎯ a detailed information bulletin with important logistical information and answers to

questions regarding accommodations, air arrangements, clothing, currency, customs and immigration, documents, health precautions, and personal items ⎯ a reference list ⎯ a Field Guides checklist for preparing and keeping track of the birds we see on the tour ⎯ after the conclusion of the tour, a list of birds seen on the tour A fully revised tour through a remarkable land; from the Rift Valley lakes and escarpments to the Bale Mountains, Awash National Park, Yabello, and the remote Negele region. Rich in endemics, with Blue-winged Goose, Rougetʼs Rail, and Abyssinian Woodpecker, to the “must-see” Prince Ruspoliʼs Turaco, Stresemannʼs Bush-Crow, and the enigmatic Ethiopian Wolf. After careful re-scouting in 2010, we are now able to visit this spectacular country while based mostly in good quality accommodations (see Special Note on Accommodations below). Set against a backdrop of some of the most stunning scenery in all Africa, Ethiopiaʼs remote mountains are home to creatures seemingly forgotten by time. These include animals like the bizarre Giant Root-Rat and enigmatic Ethiopian Wolf, while the countryʼs unique birdlife includes more than 30 species found almost nowhere else—and most of which we should see on this captivating adventure. Itʼs a tour that begins in fine style, as we seek our first endemics—including Wattled Ibis and Thick-billed Raven—before we have barely left the capital, Addis Ababa. Itʼs also from Addis that weʼll visit the Ankober Escarpment—home to troops of Gelada Baboons and an array of endemics including White-collared Pigeon, White-billed Starling, Red-billed

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Pytilia, Yellow-throated Seedeater, and the little known Ankober Serin. Weʼll also visit the spectacular Jemma Valley (and a tributary of the Blue Nile) where among the scrub and boulders are secretive Harwoodʼs Francolins and striking White-winged Cliff-Chats. Weʼll then head east to bird-rich Awash National Park where in the grasslands and acacia country we should encounter numerous birds of prey, bustards, and bee-eaters, the gorgeous Abyssinian Roller, Yellow-breasted Barbet, Nile Valley Sunbird, and Somali Fiscal. Beisa Oryx and Sommeringʼs Gazelle occur here, too. Traveling south through Africaʼs Great Rift Valley, weʼll then visit a string of varied lakes including Langano, Abiata, and Awassa, and then head further east to the magnificent Bale Mountains as we search out Rougetʼs Rail, Abyssinian Woodpecker, Abyssinian Longclaw, White-backed Tit, and the mysterious Abyssinian Catbird. Emerging from the juniper and Hagenia forests weʼll cross the weird, tundra-like landscape of the Sanetti Plateau, the otherworldly domain of Ethiopian Wolves and Spot-breasted Lapwings—at more than 13,200 feet/4000 meters above sea level, itʼs the literal high point of our tour. Continuing south weʼll visit the remote Negele area, where weʼll walk the dry river beds in search of the little known and beautiful Prince Ruspoliʼs Turaco, and then to Yabello, the home of Ethiopiaʼs most sought-after endemic—the curious Stresemannʼs Bush-Crow, along with White-tailed Swallow. And finally, as we return towards Addis Ababa, weʼll make a stop at what was formerly Emperor Haile Selasieʼs weekend retreat—Wondo Genet—one of the best areas for the localized endemic—Yellow-fronted Parrot. * Special Note on Accommodations: Without doubt, Ethiopia is one of Africaʼs most attractive countries. With spectacular scenery and a host of endemic and near-endemic birds, itʼs a place that all serious birders wish to visit. However, in the past the very poor quality of hotels at almost all the birding spots has made many people think twice about visiting this country, and many simply stayed away. In January 2010 Terry Stevenson made a special trip to Ethiopia in order to search out better accommodations for our tour. Weʼre pleased to report that at Debre Birhan, Awash NP, Yabello, Negelle (since 2012), and lakes Langano and Awassa, we have found far, far better places to stay than were ever possible before. The hotels at Bale Mountains and Wondo Genet were always acceptable, and in Addis Ababa we stay at the Hilton—so never before has there been a tour visiting all these areas while based in perfectly reasonable lodges and hotels. You canʼt expect a/c, flat screen televisions, massages, and wireless internet at most places, but for a birding tour the accommodations are perfectly acceptable. For those taking the Lalibela extension, we stay at the new and very nice Mountain View Hotel, only ten minutes from the churches and with truly spectacular views from all the rooms. Of course all these upgrades cost quite a bit more than the very basic accommodation that many other operators still use, as does our choice of good 4WD vehicles; however, we feel these new standards will be appreciated by many of you and hope youʼll join us in April 2014. About the Physical Requirements & Pace: Ethiopia is a vast country of which we will cover the central and southern regions. The tour maximizes the overall number of birds possible (within three weeks) and gives us a chance of seeing virtually all of Ethiopiaʼs endemic birds. To many visitors the many miles of paved roads come as a pleasant surprise, and weʼll travel these in a large and comfortable bus (Toyota Coaster). Although some of the drives are quite long, weʼll have frequent stops for birding and bathroom breaks. Weʼll also have some early departures in order to reach birding areas at a time of day when the specialties will be most active and visible, planning to return to our hotel in time for a rest in the hotter part of the day or continuing with our travels. In the areas with rougher roads, like the Bale highlands and around Negele, weʼll travel in several 4X4 vehicles (perhaps up to 4 depending on the size of the group). There are no very long or strenuous walks planned, but this tour will involve birding at high altitude (to around 14,000 feet/4200 meters elevation) on the Bale Plateau (for one-and-a-half days), but weʼll sleep at the Goba Wabe Shebelle Hotel at a comparatively low 9000 feet/2700metres. All other hikes will be short walks (mostly within a few hundred yards of the bus, but up to a maximum of 2 miles) mostly over easy to moderate terrain, but perhaps on a quite steep slope in the Jemma Valley. Elsewhere on the tour, weʼll be spending our time in the highlands at about 7500 feet/2300 metres around Addis Ababa to about 9850 feet/3000 metres around Ankober. At Awash National Park and in the south around Yabello weʼll be mostly between 2600 feet/700 metres and 5200 feet/1600 metres.

“Terry Stevenson is one of the two absolutely best birding guides we have ever had—and he may well be The Best!” J.W., East Africa Highlights

“An excellent tour. It would be difficult to beat this experience—magnificent scenery, unique country and culture, great guide in Richard Webster. Richard made sure the organization worked and is a truly superb bird guide.” J.H., Bhutan


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As noted above, we have done everything possible to improve the comfort level (lodging, vehicles) of this tour while still going to the best birding places. And the accommodations are vastly better than what was available even a few years ago. However, a number of our hotels are still "simple," and you should expect the minimum—beds, a nightstand, a couple of chairs, a small table, fewer bright lights than you would like, and a shower that may get some of the rest of the bathroom wet. Figuring out the hot water tank may take trial and error. At some point you will undoubtedly have a room in which something does not work quite right. But having a bed and a bathroom should get you through to the next comfortable stop and be enough to allow you to enjoy Ethiopia. Other realities of travel in Ethiopia are long drives and limited choice of food. There are long drives and a number of "travel days" with limited birding. Many of the drives are through heavily settled landscapes, and while there is usually something going on out the window, the somethings are often cultural rather than natural. Internal flights are simply not practical apart from the extension, so we drive. As for the food, away from our three best hotels, which have extensive buffets, expect limited choices or no choice (a fixed menu). Breakfasts are especially limited: scrambled eggs (perhaps a choice of porridge), bread, and tea or coffee (perhaps also juice) (and the good news/bad news is that the guides often cannot arrange even such a simple breakfast as early as the guides would like!). Picnic lunches from hotels are very basic; more popular at times are very simple peanut-butter-and-jam-make-your-own sandwiches (we supply the ingredients!). Restaurant lunches and dinners usually involve a handful of choices at most: a western-style meat choice like chicken or beef; spaghetti; and a couple of local dishes, most commonly tibis (or tibs, small pieces of cooked beef or lamb) or spiro (a savory chickpea sauce), both served with injera, a local bread that is like a soft tortilla that tastes like a sourdough pancake. The most common vegetarian choice is spaghetti with a meatless tomato sauce, at other times a plate of cooked vegetables (but cooked vegetables are not abundant). Ethiopians like spicey food; the food we are served is almost always toned down for the tourists, but may still have a little more kick than you expect; if you want more kick, chili powder will be supplied! Beverages are also limited: No diet soft drinks away from the Hilton. The most common types of beverage are soft drinks, decent beer, a popular bottled sparkling water ("ambo"), and regular bottled drinking water. In summary, Ethiopia has only recently resumed hosting numbers of tourists, and that number is still rather small; the tourist infrastructure is just beginning to develop. Ethiopia is a wonderful experience right now, and certainly, in the view of the guides, within the norm of bird tours, but if simple accommodations and limited food choice for about half of the tour will interfere with your enjoyment, we suggest waiting a decade until the infrastructure catches up further, as it surely will. Shifting the tour into April will also ensure that a lot of Palearctic migrants are stilll about, adding an extra dimension to the tour. If you are uncertain about whether this tour is a good match for your abilities, please donʼt hesitate to contact our office; if they cannot directly answer your queries, they will put you in touch with one of the guides.

About the Birding Areas Addis Ababa and the Highland Escarpments—Addis (as it is locally known) is a very birdy city with endemics right on the grounds of several of the larger hotels. In addition to the more widespread Hooded Vultures, Speckled Mousebirds, and Baglafecht Weavers, keep an eye open for Wattled Ibis, White-collared Pigeon, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Brown-rumped Seedeater, and the gigantic Thick-billed Raven. Weʼll have three days in the highlands to the north, visiting spectacular escarpments at Ankober and then at the Jemma Valley. Both these sites have troops of striking Gelada Baboons, Lammergeierʼs cross the open skies, White-billed Starlings feed along the cliff tops, and at Ankober, weʼll spend time looking for the little known endemic, Ankober Serin, while Red-billed Pytilia and Yellow-throated Seedeater are found on the lower slopes. In the Jemma Valley, Harwoodʼs Francolin will be our main target species, but we should also see Rueppellʼs Chat and White-winged Cliff-Chat, while the highland grasslands and marshes along the

Fairly common in the highlands, the Tacazze Sunbird is the largest of all the sunbirds. Photo by participants David & Judy Smith.


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way are home to Blue-winged Goose, Erlangerʼs Lark, Abyssinian Longclaw, Red-breasted Wheatear, and Abyssinian (Black-headed) Siskin. Awash National Park—Over 450 species of birds have been recorded in this park—as well as some great mammals including Beisa Oryx, Soemmeringʼs Gazelle, Lesser Kudu, Saltʼs Dikdik, Warthog, and both Olive and Hamadryas (scarce) baboons. The habitats consist of mixed acacia bush and grasslands, the Awash River, and open lava fields. During three days in this area weʼll visit all these habitats as we search out (Somali) Ostrich, a variety of raptors including kites, vultures, Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Tawny Eagle, and the tiny Pygmy Falcon. Arabian (rare), White-bellied, and Buff-crested bustards occur on the open plains, while Sombre Chat and Blackstart prefer the lava fields. But it is the bush country and riverine forest that hold most species with Helmeted Guineafowl, Bruceʼs Green-Pigeon, White-bellied Go-away Bird, Blue-naped Mousebird, Northern Carmine Bee-eater, Abyssinian Roller, Black-billed Woodhoopoe, Red-billed Hornbill, Yellow-breasted Barbet, Gray-headed Batis, White Helmetshrike, Rosy-patched Bushshrike, Gillettʼs Lark, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Nile Valley and Shining sunbirds, Somali Bunting, Rueppellʼs Weaver, and Eastern Paradise-Whydah being just a sampling of what we could see. Nearby Bilen Lodge, which we visit first, is in a slightly lower and more arid area than the Park, and improves our chances for several species, such as Arabian Bustard, sandgrouse, and the batis and sunbirds. The Rift Valley Lakes—During the course of our tour weʼll visit several of Ethiopiaʼs famous lakes, including Ziway and Awassa, where dozens of pelicans, cormorants, herons, egrets, ibis, Hamerkops, and Yellow-billed and Marabou storks preen, feed, and walk within just a few feet of the local fisherman—itʼs spectacular for photography. At Lake Koka the marshy fringes are good for Purple and Squacco herons, Black Crake, and if we are lucky, Black Crowned-Crane. Lake Langano has more open deep water, and apart from flocks of White-winged Terns and Gray-headed Gulls, is often very quiet compared to the other nearby lakes. It is, however, the surrounding woodlands that are the main attraction here, and weʼll have a full day to enjoy this very birdy area. Weʼll also visit Lake Abiata, a shallow alkaline lake that sometimes attracts large numbers of both Greater and Lesser flamingos.

Bale Mountains—For many visitors to Ethiopia, the Bale Mountains are the major highlight of the tour. And from our lodge near Goba town, itʼs just a short drive to the lower (but still montane grasslands) where many of the highland endemics are found. Any marshy pool could provide us with flocks of Wattled Ibis and Blue-winged Goose, or an inquisitive Rougetʼs Rail. In the mixed grassland and wooded areas around the park headquarters or higher above the town are yet more local specialties, including Chestnut-naped and Moorland francolins, White-cheeked Turaco, Abyssinian Woodpecker, Abyssinian Longclaw, Brown Woodland-Warbler, Brown (Bale) Warbler, Abyssinian Catbird, and White-backed Black-Tit. Menelikʼs Bushbuck (a distinctive race) and the endemic Mountain Nyala are also found here. Continuing still higher (on the highest all-weather road in Africa), weʼll leave the juniper and Hagenia forests behind and emerge on the Sanetti Plateau, a spectacular open area of Afro-alpine moorland with a variety of everlasting flowers and magnificent Giant Lobelias. Birds are few here except for Moorland Chats and hopefully Wattled Crane and Spot-breasted Lapwing; this is, however, the domain of Ethiopian Wolf, and we have a very good chance of seeing this beautiful, endangered mammal. Finally, while in the Bale Mountains area weʼll make a day trip to the Sof Omar in the hope of finding one of Ethiopiaʼs rarest endemics—Salvadoriʼs Serin. Harenna Forest and other montane forest patches—The Harenna Forest to the south of the high peaks of the Bale Mountains is one of Ethiopiaʼs largest remaining forests. Together with several much smaller remnant patches at places like Wondo Genet and near Agere Maryam, weʼll spend time looking for Ayresʼs Hawk-Eagle, Yellow-fronted Parrot,

A fantastic-looking Abysinnian Ground-Hornbill. Photo by participants David & Judy Smith.


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White-cheeked Turaco, Banded Barbet, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Dark-headed (Ethiopian) Oriole, Broad-ringed (Montane) White-eye, and Abyssinian Crimson-wing. Negelle and Yabello—In southern Ethiopia lie two areas where some of the countryʼs most-wanted birds occur. First, weʼll visit some of the tributaries of the Genale River where weʼll search in fruiting fig trees for the enigmatic Prince Ruspoliʼs Turaco—a little known species found only in this area. Weʼll then head to a nearby area of arid grassland for the equally obscure Sidamo Lark (with a world population perhaps as low as 250 individuals) and then to Yabello where yet more localized endemics are found. Our main target species here are Stresemannʼs Bush-Crow and White-tailed Swallow, which only occur in this semi-arid bushland of spiky acacias and termite hills. Itʼs also a fabulous area for other more widespread birds like Bateleur, Vulturine Guineafowl, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Red-bellied Parrot, Von der Deckenʼs Hornbill, Somali Tit, Pringleʼs Puffback, Rufous-naped Bush-Shrike, White-crowned and Shelleyʼs starlings, and if lucky Northern Grosbeak-Canary. Lalibela—This very arid area is not a birding mecca, and we visit it to see the churches. But there are birds, with two endemics more likely here than on the main tour: Erckel's Francolin and Yellow-rumped (White-throated) Seedeater, and the former is a skulker (but we are two for two) and the latter is difficult (we are one for two). However, many other endemics occur, and we have had our best views of species such as Abyssinian Nightjar, Banded Barbet, White-billed Starling, and Schalow's (Abyssinian Black) Wheatear here, along with other interesting taxa such as hararensis Long-billed Pipit and septemstriata Cinnamon-breasted Bunting. Plus, there are some other fine shows, such as soaring birds, with Lammergeiers regular right by our hotel, soaring like albatrosses, followed by Fan-tailed Ravens.

Itinerary for Ethiopia: Endemic Birds & Ethiopian Wolf Day 1, Fri, 4 Apr. Departure from US. Participants joining the tour from the US will need to leave today in order to arrive in Addis Ababa on Day 2. Day 2, Sat, 5 Apr. Arrival in Addis Ababa. Please plan your flights so as to arrive in Addis (as it is locally known) sometime today. For those who provide flight information, we will arrange a transfer from the airport to the hotel; note, however, that in 2013 transfer agents were not allowed into the terminal, and one needed to exit the terminal and go down to the edge of the parking area (short distance) to find the transfer agent (look for your name on a sign). For those who come in early, you may wish to visit the Ethnographic Museum (formerly the home of Emperor Haile Selasie), perhaps see one of the famous local churches, or simply rest after your long flight. There are no birding activities planned for today, although just by walking in the hotel grounds you could see your first endemics. With advance notice, our ground agent will be happy to organize one of the above excursions for you (not included in the tour fee). Night at the Hilton Hotel, Addis Ababa. Day 3, Sun, 6 Apr. To Debre Birhan. After breakfast this morning weʼll leave in our Toyota bus and head northeast to Debre Birhan, arriving in time for lunch. Along the way weʼll make stops as we see our first Wattled Ibis, Augur Buzzard, Cape Crow, or even the gigantic Thick-billed Raven, which feeds around the villages and among the fields of cattle, sheep, and horses. As we climb higher (to around 9900 feet/3000 metres), weʼll see the first moorlands, with Moorland

In addition to a number of endemic bird species, the Ethiopian highlands also harbor several endemic mammals, including the impressive Gelada.

Photo by participants David & Judy Smith.


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Chats, Brown-rumped Seedeaters, and if the aloes are flowering, gleaming Malachite Sunbirds. In the afternoon weʼll drive to the edge of the Ankober Escarpment where weʼll begin our search for the little known Ankober Serin. Troops of the strange Gelada Baboon, Lammergeier, Dusky Turtle Dove, White-collared Pigeon, Groundscraper Thrush, Red-breasted Wheatear, White-billed Starling, Abyssinian (Black-headed) Siskin, and Fan-tailed Raven are all far easier to find. Night at the Eva Hotel, Debre Birhan. Day 4, Mon, 7 Apr. The Ankober Escarpment. Weʼll be out early today, perhaps visiting a different part of the Ankober Escarpment—especially if the serin eluded us yesterday. Weʼll also descend to the lower slopes in the hope of finding Red-billed Pytilia and Yellow-throated Seedeater among a host of more widespread bush country birds. In the afternoon weʼll return to Addis Ababa. Night at the Hilton Hotel. Day 5, Tue, 8 Apr. Jemma Valley. Weʼll visit this scenically spectacular area as a day trip from Addis and therefore need a very early start, arriving if possible shortly after dawn. The main reason to arrive here early is to find the secretive Harwoodʼs Francolin (and perhaps also Erckelʼs Francolin) which hides among the boulders on the scrubby slopes. Other species should include Erlangerʼs Lark, Red-breasted Wheatear, Rueppellʼs Chat, White-winged Cliff-Chat, Little Rock-Thrush, Abyssinian Longclaw, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, and Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu. Night at the Hilton Hotel.

Day 6, Wed, 9 Apr. To Awash National Park. Leaving Addis weʼll descend in to the Great Rift Valley bound for the savannas of Awash National Park. The drive will take us most of the day, but we should have time for a stop at Lake Cheleleka, a shallow freshwater lake favored by Maccoa Duck, and perhaps (if weʼre lucky), the strange White-backed Duck as well. Weʼll also check in the reeds and trees along the shore for Blue-breasted Bee-eater and Rueppellʼs Weaver. Continuing on, the road winds through more farm country and then through black lava outcrops and on to the dry savanna of the Awash area—home of the Afar people, many of whom still live a wandering traditional way of life. Widespread birds to look for along the way include Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Helmeted Guineafowl, Crowned Lapwing, Namaqua Dove, Rufous-crowned Roller, Ethiopian Swallow, and Pin-tailed Whydah. Weʼll also have a chance for more localized species like Yellow-breasted Barbet, Blackstart, and Sombre Chat. We should arrive at our hotel (outside Awash National Park but with similar birds) in the late afternoon. Night at Bilen Lodge near Awash NP. Days 7-8, Thu-Fri, 10-11 Apr. Awash National Park. After a morning birding in the Bilen area where numerous new birds will be found—hopefully including the uncommon Arabian Bustard—weʼll then head into the park itself, a fabulous area of acacia bush, grasslands, and wooded areas that grow along the Awash River; the birdlife is rich and varied, with over 450 species recorded. Just some of the more widespread possibilities are White-backed, Rueppellʼs, and Lappet-faced vultures, Pygmy Falcon, Yellow-necked Francolin, Senegal Thick-knee, Chestnut-

bellied Sandgrouse, Buff-crested and White-bellied bustards, White-bellied Go-away Bird, Northern Carmine Bee-eater, Abyssinian Roller, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, White-rumped Babbler, Gray-headed Batis, Nile Valley Sunbird, Somali Fiscal, Rosy-patched Bushshrike, White-Helmetshrike, Rueppellʼs Weaver, Green-winged Pytilia, Bristle-crowned Starling, and Eastern Paradise-Whydah. Less common species include Sissor-tailed Kite and Gillettʼs Lark; Beisa Oryx, Soemmeringʼs Gazelle, Lesser Kudu, Saltʼs Dikdik, and Warthog should all be added to our mammal list. Nights at Awash Falls Lodge. Day 9, Sat, 12 Apr. To Lake Langano. Weʼll partially retrace our steps today before turning south and on to some of the Rift Valleyʼs most spectacular lakes. Stopping first at Lake Koka, weʼll scan the marshes for Purple and Squacco herons, Black Crake, and perhaps Black Crowned-Crane. Weʼll then visit Lake Ziway where numerous herons, egrets, Sacred Ibis, Hamerkops, and Marabou Storks parade around and between the local fishermen as they try to snatch a tasty meal. White-winged Terns and Gray-headed Gulls can also be common, with smaller numbers of both Great White and Pink-

Blue-breasted Bee-eater, a bird weʼll look for at Awash. Photo by participants David & Judy Smith.


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backed pelicans; the surrounding trees provide views of the ever-watchful African Fish-Eagles—photographic opportunities are numerous and spectacular! Weʼll finish the day a little further south at Lake Langano, where the new Sabana Lodge will be our base for the next two nights. Watch for Northern (Abyssinian) Ground-Hornbill in the more open areas along the road! Night at Sabana Lodge (we may switch if an alternative becomes available in time, but the Sabana is plenty nice, so we are OK either way). Day 10, Sun, 13 Apr. Lakes Langano and Abiata. Weʼll spend today visiting lakes Langano and Abiata, so near to each other and yet so different in character. Alkaline Abiata is frequently the feeding ground of thousands of both Greater and Lesser flamingos. Freshwater Langano is one of the deeper and quieter lakes but, surrounded by fabulous woodlands, the area can be literally full of birds; Bruceʼs Green-Pigeon, Northern White-faced Owl, Grayish Eagle-Owl, Black-billed Woodhoopoe, African Gray and Hemprichʼs hornbills, Nubian and Cardinal woodpeckers, Black-headed Batis, White-winged Black-Tit, Buff-bellied Warbler, Red-faced Crombec, Mourning (Abyssinian Black) Wheatear, Little Rock-Thrush, Mocking Cliff-Chat, Rufous Chatterer, Eastern Violet-backed and Beautiful sunbirds, and White-headed Buffalo-Weaver are just a sampling of what we may see. Night at Sabana Lodge. Day 11, Mon, 14 Apr. To the Bale Mountains. Climbing through the cultivated fields, weʼll start to come across more natural grasslands crossed here and there with highland streams. Although the area is still quite populated by the horse riding Oromo people, this is good habitat for Abyssinian Longclaw and perhaps our first Rougetʼs Rail. By mid-afternoon weʼll see the Bale Mountains ahead of us and stop at some small pools. Wattled Ibis are usually common here, as are Blue-winged Goose, Rougetʼs Rail, and sometimes Spot-breasted Lapwing. It will also be our first chance for Chestnut-naped Francolin and perhaps Red-billed Chough, which feed in the sparse cultivated areas and damp grasslands. Night at Goba Wabe Shebelle Hotel. Days 12-13, Tue-Wed, 15-16 Apr. Bale Mountains and Sof Omar. Weʼll leave our larger Toyota bus behind and transfer to several small, four-wheel drive vehicles as we head to the Bale Mountains. During two full days in this area weʼll make a day trip to Sof Omar—undoubtedly the best site for another little known endemic, Salvadoriʼs Serin (note: if we have a major weather, road, or vehicle problem, we would scratch Sof Omar to get the Sanetti Plateau right). Weʼll also visit the forest and glades around the park headquarters where Mountain Nyala and (Menelikʼs) Bushbuck are usually seen. And, weʼll spend at least a full day climbing high into the mountains (on the highest all-weather road in Africa) in search of many of the montane endemics that occur there. Leaving our hotel behind, itʼs not far to the first area of forest where Mountain Buzzard, Abyssinian Woodpecker, White-backed Black-Tit, Abyssinian Catbird, Brown (Bale) Warbler, Abyssinian Ground-Thrush, Rueppellʼs Robin-Chat, and Yellow-crowned Canary occur. Itʼs hard to ignore this alluring forest, and weʼll return here for birding in the afternoon, but for now weʼll keep moving as the main prize awaits us on beautiful open moorlands of the Sanetti Plateau. Only known from here (and a few other remote Ethiopian mountain blocks), the Ethiopian Wolf can be found as it wanders the sparsely vegetated plains searching for its primary food source—the Giant Root-Rat. We have an excellent chance to find this rare Canid, which for many visitors is a major highlight of the tour. Moorland Francolin, Ruddy Shelduck, Wattled Crane, and Spot-breasted Lapwing are some of the more localized birds to watch for here as well. Nights at Goba Wabe Shebelle Hotel. Day 14, Thu, 17 Apr. To Negelle. Itʼs a long drive today as once again we climb the Bale Mountains and then descend on the southern side. If necessary, weʼll make an effort to find any of the special birds we may still need as we enjoy this fabulously scenic drive. Descending through the Giant Heather and Hygenia forests, weʼll make stops at the “Harenna

An Ethiopian Wolf photographed in the Bale Mountains by participants David & Judy Smith.


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Forest” where weʼll eat our picnic lunch and hope for many of the following: Rameron Pigeon, White-cheeked Turaco, African Emerald Cuckoo, Narina Trogon, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Gray Cuckoo-shrike, Dark-headed (Ethiopian) Oriole, Abyssinian Slaty-Flycatcher, African Dusky Flycatcher, Olive (Mountain) Thrush, African Hill Babbler, Broad-ringed White-eye, Slender-billed Starling, and Yellow-bellied Waxbill. However, this is a long travel day, and our time is limited. Dropping in altitude and leaving the forest behind, we arrive in much more open and drier country, cut here and there by dry riverbeds and the Genale River. As time permits, weʼll make stops at several of our favorite spots, perhaps walking in a dry river bed and looking for fruiting fig trees—for this is the habitat of Prince Ruspoliʼs Turaco. Weʼll have part of this afternoon and the whole of tomorrow (if necessary) to find this little known, gorgeous endemic! And late in the afternoon weʼll arrive at our simple hotel in Negelle town for a two-night stay. (A better hotel is expected for 2014, but the new one we used in 2012 and 2013 was an important improvement from the very basic lodge of prior years.) Day 15, Fri, 18 Apr. Negelle area. Weʼll spend today in the semi-arid bush country around Negelle and also in the grasslands of the Liben Plain, the only known habitat for yet another little known endemic—Sidamo (Liben) Lark. With a population of no more than a few hundred, finding the Lark is hardly expected, but we will give it a good try. In addition to hopefully having further encounters with Prince Ruspoliʼs Turaco, we should also find a large number of new species, perhaps including Gray Kestrel, Temminckʼs Courser, Lilac-breasted Roller, Black-billed and Double-toothed barbets, Greater Honeyguide, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Northern Puffback, Taita Fiscal, Somali Short-toed Lark, Spotted Morning-Thrush, Golden-breasted Starling, Collared Sunbird, and Gray-headed Social-Weaver. Night in Negele.

Day 16, Sat, 19 Apr. To Lake Awassa. After breakfast weʼll leave the Negele area and drive northwest back towards the Great Rift Valley and the fabulous Lake Awassa. If we have had trouble with Prince Ruspoli's Turaco, our way back takes us by yet another spot. Although many of the waterbirds that we see here we will have seen previously on the tour, in a good year just the sheer numbers of birds can be impressive, and weʼre certain to add some new ones, too. A walk in the woodland will also certainly increase our list, with Little Sparrowhawk, Banded Snake-Eagle, Blue-spotted Wood-Dove, Verreauxʼs Eagle-Owl, Black-winged Lovebird, Gray-headed Woodpecker, Banded Barbet, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Gray-backed Fiscal, African Thrush, White-browed Robin-Chat, Spotted Creeper, African Black-headed Oriole, Rueppellʼs Glossy-Starling, and Fawn-breasted (Abyssinian) Waxbill being just some of the possibilities. Night at Haile Resort. Days 17-18, Sun-Mon, 20-21 Apr. Yabello. Weʼll say goodbye to the drivers of our four-wheel drive vehicles and once again say ishee (a common friendly greeting in Ethiopia) to the driver of our Toyota bus. Weʼll pass through the rolling hills of farmland and countless villages as we head south (and a nice area of forest near Agere Maryam) eventually descending to about 3600 feet/1100 metres where weʼll find ourselves in an area of red soils, dry acacia woodland, and chimney-like termite mounds that are the hallmark of this part of Ethiopia. In the late afternoon we will reach the area where two notable endemics occur, and weʼll have a full day, and parts of two others, to search them out. The strange Stresemannʼs Bush-Crow (which has been thought of as both a crow, a starling, and even put in its own family) moves around in small parties and can be encountered anywhere within its tiny range. The poorly known White-tailed Swallow (which is equally range restricted) is less common and thought to nest within the termite chimneys here. Weʼll devote the whole of Day 18 to birding this area and hope for many of the following species: Bateleur, Eastern Chanting-Goshawk, Martial Eagle, Three-banded Courser, Orange-bellied (Red-bellied) Parrot, Black-billed Woodhoopoe, Red-fronted, dʼArnaudʼs, and Red-and-yellow barbets, Pringleʼs Puffback, Gray-headed Bushshrike, White-rumped Shrike, African Paradise-Flycatcher, Northern Brownbul, Chestnut-headed Sparrow-Lark, Mouse-colored Penduline-Tit, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Pale Prinia, Banded Warbler, Somali Crombec, White-browed Scrub-Robin, Shelleyʼs and White-crowned starlings, Somali Bunting, White-bellied Canary, Shelleyʼs Rufous Sparrow, Yellow-spotted Petronia, Chestnut Weaver, and Purple Grenadier. Nights at Yabello. Day 19, Tue, 22 Apr. To Wondo Genet. We retrace our steps northward today and travel a short distance beyond Lake Awassa to the hot-spring resort area of Wondo Genet. During our one-night stay, we will bird the grounds of the hotel and the surrounding heavily degraded forest. Many species will now be familiar, but less common birds that may be new for us include Green-backed Honeyguide, Abyssinian Woodpecker, and African Firefinch. Striking Black-and-white Colobus monkeys (Mantled Guereza) are tame around the lodge, but our main target will be Yellow-fronted Parrot, a localized endemic which is becoming increasingly uncommon at an alarming rate, now numbering just a few pairs here; even so, it is our best chance, and we need a stop to break our two moderate travel days. Night at Wabe Shebelle Hotel, Wondo Genet. Day 20, Wed, 23 Apr. Return to Addis Ababa. After breakfast and more birding around Wondo Genet, weʼll head


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back to Addis Ababa where day rooms will be available before our international departure this evening. For those taking the Churches of Lalibela Extension, weʼll overnight at the Hilton. Day 21, Thu, 24 Apr. Arrival home. If youʼre returning to the US, you should arrive today in time for your onward connections home.

Churches of Lalibela Extension Days 1-2, Thu-Fri, 24-25 Apr. To Lalibela. For those taking this extension, weʼll transfer to the airport this morning (April 24) and then fly to Lalibela. Luggage allowances change frequently depending on the type of plane flying that day (and other not so obvious reasons). We suggest that you have a small overnight bag in your main luggage that you can use for this two-night extension. On arrival weʼll transfer to our hotel and then begin our exploration of this fascinating area. There are no less than 1000 churches in the “Lasta Region of Lalibella,” some hidden in enormous caves, but it's exceptional to find 11 churches of such master craftsmanship as those found at Lalibela. These brilliant feats of engineering and architecture are a World Heritage Site and (are one of many wonderful places) often referred to as the "Eighth Wonder of the World." Weʼll have the afternoon of Day 1 and the whole of Day 2 to visit some of the most special monuments. This is an excellent way to wind down after the main tour, see some fabulous sights, and get a few nice birds as well. Although the countryside around Lalibela is home to many interesting birds, we will have seen virtually all of them during the main tour; however, new species may include Abyssinian Nightjar, Erckelʼs Francolin, which is common on the escarpment below our lodge, and Yellow-rumped Serin. Nights at Mountain View Hotel, Lalibela. Day 3, Sat, 26 Apr. Return to Addis Ababa. Weʼll take the flight back to Addis, where day rooms will be available before your international departure later tonight. For those wishing to stay overnight, please make these special arrangements through the Field Guides office. Day 4, Sun, 27 Apr. Arrival home. If youʼre returning to the US, you should arrive today in time for your onward connections home.

About Your Guides Terry Stevenson, originally from England, has made Kenya his home since 1977. He is the senior author of the Field Guide to the Birds of East Africa: Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi—the only guide in the region to have a text and maps opposite plates format; it has recently been released as an app, with the added advantage of making it possible to hear many of the calls. He is also co-author to Birds of the Horn of Africa: Ethiopia, Eritrea, Djibouti, Somalia and Socotra. Published in 2009, this acclaimed guide is the only one to this region. He is a member/advisor to the Bird Committee of Nature Kenya and the East African Rarities Committee. On November 30, 1986, he set a new World Big Day record with 342 species in one day in Kenya; the record stands today. One of Africa's and India's foremost bird-tour guides, Terry has led numerous Field Guides tours across the African continent, in Madagascar, and in India. He is currently living in a mud-and-cow-dung mansion near Mt. Kenya. Richard Webster and Rose Ann Rowlett live between tours in a refurbished home in Portal, Arizona, where they reside at the sufferance of the true masters of the place, the Acorn Woodpeckers. Richard claims that his heart is in the American tropics, oscillating rapidly between the Andes and Amazonia, but his increasingly frequent and enthusiastic journeys to other continents betray his love for birds and birding everywhere. A much-neglected manuscript on southern California's birds is receiving more attention as he reduces his tour schedule. He looks forward to returning for another trip to Africa, where he has guided Field Guides birding tours to East Africa, South Africa, Ethiopia, and Cameroon, and made additional forays to Uganda, Namibia, Botswana, and Zimbabwe. Tour participants comment frequently on Richard's wide-ranging knowledge of birds (toward which end he has burdened his sagging shelves with many more books, journals, and papers than he could ever read), and they appreciate his eager willingness to share that knowledge. He stays in shape by chasing away the cows, which are the cost of preferring open range that allows the deer and peccaries to roam freely in the absence of fences. Current preoccupations are still a re-re-re-recurring drought and playing with the trail camera that reveals the Gray Foxes, Black Bears, Bobcats, and Mountain Lions that traverse the yard as they sleep.


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Visit http://fieldguides.com/guides for complete tour schedules for both guides; just click on their photos.

Financial Information FEE: $8575 from Addis Ababa FEE FOR THE EXTENSION: $1525 from Addis Ababa (includes round trip flight Addis Ababa/Lalibela) AIRFARE: $1861.52 from Washington D.C. (as of July 2013; subject to change; main tour) DEPOSIT: $860 per person FINAL PAYMENT DUE: December 5, 2013 SINGLE SUPPLEMENT (Optional): $800; $150 for extension LIMIT: 10

Other Things You Need to Know TOUR MANAGER: The manager for this tour is Sharon Mackie. Sharon will be happy to assist you in preparing for the tour. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to call her! ACCOMMODATIONS: We have made every effort to make the standards of accommodation on this tour better than what any other birding tour company offers. This includes all our nights in Addis Ababa at the Hilton Hotel (a hotel with typical high standards associated with this hotel group), the new Haile Resort at Lake Awassa, basic but nice Eva Hotel at Debre Birhan, and new small lodges at Bilen and in Awash National Park (past accommodations in these areas were described by more than one participant as “just disgusting”). We stay at the new Sabana Lodge at Lake Langano and two of the better government owned Wabe Shebelle hotels at Goba (Bale Mountains) and Wondo Genet. At Yabello, the previously poor quality Yabello Motel now has completely new rooms and was enjoyed by everyone during our recent tours. All the above accommodations have private bathrooms and could be classed as fairly good to excellent. The bad hotel in Negelle was supplanted in 2012 by a new, simple place, and yet better hotels are slated for completion before the 2014 tour. DOCUMENTS: US citizens will need a passport valid for six months beyond the date of their return and a visa to enter Ethiopia. We will provide you with the necessary visa application form and instructions at the appropriate time. No vaccinations are currently required unless you are arriving from a yellow fever-infected area. If you are not a US citizen, please check with the consulates nearest you for entry requirements. Information about consulates and entry requirements is generally available online or you can contact us and we will be happy to look this up for you. Passports should have an adequate number of blank pages for the entire journey. Some countries require a blank page for their stamp and as a precaution it is best to have one blank page per country you will visit or transit. AIR ARRANGEMENTS: Round-trip airfare from Washingon D.C. to Addis Ababa is currently $1861.52 (as of July 2013; subject to change). Field Guides is a full service travel agency and your tour manager will be happy to assist you with flights to join this tour. Field Guides does not charge a service fee for these services to clients booking a tour. However, we understand that tech-savvy clients often prefer to shop online or that you may wish to use mileage to purchase tickets. Regardless of which method you choose, your tour manager will be happy to provide assistance regarding ticket prices and schedules, along with rental cars and extra hotel nights as needed. Please be sure to check with your tour manager prior to purchasing your ticket to make sure the flights you have chosen will work well with the tour itinerary and that the tour is sufficiently subscribed to operate. Once purchased, most airline tickets are non-refundable and carry a penalty to change. Field Guides cannot be responsible for these fees. Also, it is imperative that we receive a copy of your comprehensive flight itinerary—including any and all flights not covered in the tour fee—so that we may track you in the event of missed connections, delays, or other mishaps. LUGGAGE: Please be aware that many airlines have recently modified their luggage policies and are charging additional fees for checked bags. Updates could easily occur before your departure, so you may wish to contact your airline to verify the policy. Additional charges for bags on any flights, whether these are covered by the tour fee or not, will be the clientʼs responsibility.


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TOUR INCLUSIONS/EXCLUSIONS: The tour fee is $8575 for one person in double occupancy from Addis Ababa. It includes all lodging from Day 2 through Day 19 (and day rooms on Day 20), all meals from breakfast on Day 3 through dinner on Day 20, all ground transportation, entrance fees, tips for baggage handling and meal service, and the guide services of the tour leader(s). The above fees do not include your airfare to and from Addis Ababa, airport taxes, visa fees, any checked or carry-on baggage charges imposed by the airlines, any alcoholic beverages, optional tips to local drivers, phone calls, laundry, or other items of a personal nature. The single supplement for the tour is $800. If you do not have a roommate but wish to share, we will try to pair you with a roommate from the tour; but if none is available, you will be billed for the single supplement. Our tour fees are based on double occupancy; one-half the cost of a double room is priced into the tour fee. The single supplement is calculated by taking the actual cost of a single room and subtracting one-half the cost of a double room (plus any applicable taxes). The fee for the Churches of Lalibela is $1525 for one person in double occupancy from Addis Ababa. It includes all lodging from Day 1 of the extension through Day 2 (and day rooms on Day 3), all meals from breakfast on Day 1 through dinner on Day 3, flights from Addis Ababa to Lalibela and return, all ground transportation, entrance fees, tips for baggage handling and meal service, and the guide services of the tour leader. The above fee does not include your airfare to and from the Addis Ababa, airport taxes, visa fees, any checked or carry-on baggage charges imposed by the airlines, any alcoholic beverages, optional tips to local drivers, phone calls, laundry, or other items of a personal nature. The single supplement for the extension is $150. TOUR REGISTRATION: To register for this tour, complete the Registration/Release and Indemnity form and return it with a deposit of $860 per person. If registering by phone, a deposit must be received within fourteen days, or the space will be released. Full payment of the tour fee is due 120 days prior to departure, or by December 5, 2013. We will bill you for the final payment at either 120 days or when the tour has reached sufficient subscription to operate, whichever date comes later. Since the cost of your trip insurance and airline tickets is generally non-refundable, please do not finalize these purchases until you have received final billing for the tour or have been advised that the tour is sufficiently subscribed to operate by your tour manager. SMOKING: Almost all of our clients prefer a smoke-free environment. If you smoke, please be sensitive to the group and refrain from smoking at meals, in vehicles, and in proximity to the group on trails and elsewhere. CANCELLATION POLICY: Refund of deposit and payment, less $100 handling fee, will be made if cancellation is received up to 120 days before departure. If cancellation occurs between 119 and 70 days before the departure date, 50% of the tour fee is refundable. Thereafter, all deposits and payments are not refundable. This policy only applies to payments made to Field Guides for tour (and any services included in those fees). Airline tickets not included in the tour fee and purchased separately often carry penalties for cancellation or change, or are sometimes totally non-refundable. Additionally, if you take out trip insurance the cost of the insurance is not refundable so it is best to purchase the policy just prior to making full payment for the tour or at the time you purchase airline tickets, depending upon the airlines restrictions. The right is reserved to cancel any tour prior to departure, in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. The right is reserved to substitute in case of emergency another guide for the original one. TRIP CANCELLATION & MEDICAL EMERGENCY INSURANCE: We strongly recommend you consider purchasing trip cancellation (including medical emergency) insurance to cover your investment in case of injury or illness to you or your family prior to or during a trip. Because we must remit early (and substantial) tour deposits to our suppliers, we cannot offer any refund when cancellation occurs within 70 days of departure, and only a partial refund from 70 to 119 days prior to departure (see CANCELLATION POLICY). In addition, the Department of State strongly urges Americans to consult with their medical insurance company prior to traveling abroad to confirm whether their policy applies overseas and if it will cover emergency expenses such as a medical evacuation. US medical insurance plans seldom cover health costs incurred outside the United States unless supplemental coverage is purchased. Furthermore, US Medicare and Medicaid programs do not provide payment for medical services outside the United States. When making a decision regarding health insurance, Americans should consider that many foreign doctors and hospitals require payment in cash prior to providing service and that a medical evacuation to the United States may cost


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well in excess of $50,000. Uninsured travelers who require medical care overseas often face extreme difficulties. When consulting with your insurer prior to your trip, please ascertain whether payment will be made to the overseas healthcare provider or whether you will be reimbursed later for expenses that you incur. US and Canadian citizens will receive from us a brochure regarding optional tour cancellation/emergency medical insurance. Our agent, CSA, will insure for trip cancellation and interruption, medical coverage, travel delay, baggage loss and delay, 24-hour accident protection, and emergency medical transportation. If you purchase the insurance when making final payment for the tour, pre-existing conditions are covered. The CSA brochure includes a contact number; you may also purchase your CSA policy on-line by visiting our website at www.fieldguides.com/travelinsurance.htm and clicking the link to CSA. Please note, once the insurance is purchased it is non-refundable, so please check with your tour manager prior to making the purchase to assure the tour will operate as scheduled. Citizens of other countries are urged to consult their insurance broker. RESPONSIBILITY: For and in consideration of the opportunity to participate in the tour, each tour participant and each parent or legal guardian of a tour participant who is under 18 agrees to release, indemnify, and hold harmless Field Guides Incorporated, its agents, servants, employees, shareholders, officers, directors, attorneys, and contractors as more fully set forth in the Release and Indemnity Agreement on the reverse side of the registration form. Field Guides Incorporated acts only as an agent for the passenger in regard to travel, whether by railroad, motorcar, motorcoach, boat, airplane, or other means, and assumes no liability for injury, damage, loss, accident, delay, or irregularity caused by defect in such vehicles or for any reason whatsoever, including the acts, defaults, or bankruptcies of any company or person engaged in conveying the passenger or in carrying out the arrangements of the tour. Field Guides Incorporated accepts no responsibility for losses or additional expenses due to delay or changes in air or other services, sickness, weather, strike, war, quarantine, or other causes. The tour participant shall bear all such losses and expenses. Field Guides Incorporated reserves the right to substitute hotels of similar category for those indicated and to make any changes in the itinerary where deemed necessary or caused by changes in air schedules. Field Guides Incorporated reserves the right to decline to accept or to retain any person as a member of any tour. Baggage is at ownerʼs risk entirely. Participants should be in good health and should consult a physician before undertaking a tour. If you have questions about the physical requirements of a tour, please contact our office for further information. Participants should prepare for the tour by reading the detailed itinerary, the information bulletin, and other pertinent matter provided by Field Guides. Each participant is responsible for bringing appropriate clothing and equipment as recommended in our bulletins. THE RECEIPT OF YOUR TOUR DEPOSIT SHALL BE DEEMED TO BE CONSENT TO THE ABOVE CONDITIONS. EACH TOUR PARTICIPANT AND EACH PARENT OR LEGAL GUARDIAN OF A TOUR PARTICIPANT WHO IS UNDER 18 SHALL SIGN AND DELIVER THE RELEASE AND INDEMNITY AGREEMENT AT THE TIME OF REGISTRATION. 6/13PAG 7/13ADR

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Field Guides - BIRDING TOURS WORLDWIDE …Field Guides Incorporated • 9433 Bee Cave Road • #1-150 • Austin • TX • 78733 • 512•263•7295 • fax 512•263•0117 •