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Teamworks Dog Training, LLC

2001 Michele Godlevski

TeamworksDog Training, LLC

Dog Behavior Packet



DOES YOUR DOG RESPECT YOU AS HIS LEADER?

HERE ARE SOME QUESTIONS TO DETERMINE IF YOUR DOG THINKS YOU ARE HIS LEADER. IF YOU CAN ANSWER YES TO MOST OF THESE QUESTIONS, YOU ARE ON THE LEADERSHIP TRACK. IF YOU ANSWER NO, AND YOUR DOG IS DIFFICULT TO MANAGE,

YOU MAY NEED TO MAKE SOME LIFESTYLE CHANGES.

LEADERS CONTROL THE FOODDoes your dog know never to beg from the table?Do you have your dog wait in a down position while you eat and then feed him afterward?

LEADERS GET ATTENTIONWhen you call your dog, does he look immediately and come running? When you leave a room, does your dog follow you?

LEADERS GO FIRSTDo you make your dog sit and stay before opening a door and letting him out? Do you make your dog follow you on walks or do you follow him?

LEADERS DO NOT CHASEDoes your dog know not to steal things from you and run away with them?Does your dog always come right inside when you call him and not try to get you to chase him? Does your dog always bring things right back to you in a game of fetch, or does he run the other way?

LEADERS START AND END PLAYDo you decide when to play with your dog and when to stop?Do you ignore your dog when he bumps your hand and pet your dog when you want to pet him? When you are petting your dog, do you stop when you want to and before the dog is done?Can you groom your dog whenever you want to and touch his ears, feet, teeth, and tail?

LEADERS OWN THEIR TERRITORYDo you decide exactly what your dog can play with and what he cannot play with? Do you tell your dog where to eat and sleep?

LEADERS REST IN ELEVATED PLACES AND MAKE OTHERS GET OUT OF THEIR WAYDo you make your dog sleep in his own bed and not in yours?Are you able to keep your dog off of the furniture with a simple command? Do you make your dog get up and move when he is in your way?



HOW TO BE YOUR DOG’S LEADER

IF YOUR DOG DOES NOT CONSIDER YOU TO BE HIS LEADER, HE WILL TAKE ADVANTAGE OF YOU AND MAY START TO SHOW AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOR. HERE ARE

SOME SIMPLE AND HUMANE WAYS TO ESTABLISH LEADERSHIP WITH YOUR DOG.

LEADERS CONTROL THE FOOD If you are free-feeding your dog (leaving a big bowl of food out all of the time), start feeding your dog at distinct times

with measured portions. Make sure you eat first and your dog eats later. Stop giving your dog any hand-outs from the table. Make sure no one else does either! Hold your dog’s collar while you set his food or treats on the ground just out of his reach. The instant he stops straining

toward the food, say “o.k.!” and release him to get the food. Practice this over and over until he relaxes almost immediately. Combine this exercise with the sit and the down command before eating.

Make your dog work for every morsel of his food. If he has to work for his food, he will stop taking it…and you…for granted. No more free lunches!

LEADERS GET ATTENTION If your dog really ignores you, try hand-feeding him his dinner (dry food works best) one piece at a time for a week. This

exercise will re-remind him who actually buys his dinner for him. Before you give you dog something he really wants, like a toy or treat, make him sit facing you. Hold the object he really

wants right at the center of your face. When he gives you eye contact, praise him and give him the object.

LEADERS GO FIRST Before you go out a door with your dog, hold your dog by the collar with one hand and open the door with the other

hand. The instant he stops straining toward the door, say “o.k.!” and release him to go out the door. Practice this over and over until he relaxes almost immediately. Combine this exercise with the sit and the down before going out the door.

When you walk your dog, do NOT wait for him to sniff around. Tell him to do his business. If he doesn’t do it, just keep walking. As you are walking, change directions when your dog pulls ahead. Change the speed at which you are walking frequently and don’t wait for your dog to catch up to you. Remember, be a leader, not a follower!

LEADERS DO NOT CHASE Always play fetch with two identical objects. Hide one object and throw the other. When your dog picks up the first

object, show him the second. You throw the second as soon as he drops the first. If he runs off with the first and ignores the second, the game is over and the next time you play the game, tie both objects to ropes for easy retrieval.

If your dog will not come to you when you call him, its time for him to lose his off-lead privileges. Far too many owners allow their dogs off-lead (give them the keys to the car) before they are ready for that responsibility. Allowing your dog to continue running away from you is like immediately giving the car keys back to a teenager who just carelessly crashed the car. Your dog needs to know consequences for his actions and needs to view being off-lead as a privilege and not a “right”. Put your dog back on a Flexi-Lead for now. He can then graduate to a long rope. VERY IMPORTANT! Make sure that once you put your dog on lead, whenever you call him, he gets PRAISED, NEVER PUNISHED. NEVER, NEVER USE YOUR “RECALL WORD” WHEN YOU NEED TO SCOLD YOUR DOG. IF YOU DO, YOU WILL CERTAINLY TRAIN THE DOG NOT TO COME TO YOU AGAIN. IF YOU ALREADY HAVE DONE THIS IN THE PAST, CHOOSE A NEW “RECALL WORD” TO USE FROM NOW ON TO CALL YOUR DOG TO YOU.

LEADERS START AND END PLAY Place most of your dog’s toys away in a cabinet. Take them out for special play sessions, and then collect them and put

them away. When your dog bumps your hand to be petted, make him sit first. Don’t pet your dog until he gets tired and walks away. Pet him for a little while and then stop. If he wants more petting,

make him lay down. When you are done petting him, say “all done” and stop petting him.

LEADERS REST IN ELEVATED PLACES AND MAKE OTHERS GET OUT OF THEIR WAY Get your dog his own dog bed and crate Sometimes just the act of not allowing your dog to sleep with you in your bed anymore can work wonders on a dog’s

attitude. Use a command like “off” to keep your dog off of furniture. Enforce it 100% of the time.



When your dog is in your way, say “watch out” and make him move.

BEHAVIOR WORKSHEET:



WHY DO DOGS JUMP UP? Dogs jump up to get close to your face. Your breath gives your dog information on where you have been. A dog may also want to lick you in the face (an act of submission). The urge to jump is worse when the dog feels separation anxiety.

COMMON OWNER MISTAKES: Petting the dog or holding the dog when she jumps up. Allowing the dog to jump up on you but scolding her for jumping on others. Allowing dog to jump up on bed or on couch whenever she pleases without invitation. Using the word "down" for two different things -- when you mean "don’t jump up" and

when you want the dog to lie down. Making a really big fuss over the dog during greetings.

START BY: Stop petting the dog for jumping up. Make sure your family members and guests do the same.

When your dog jumps up she should get no hand contact at all. If the dog jumps up, say "off" and turn completely around and deny your dog face and hand

contact. Say "sit", and when the dog does, reward her by crouching down to put your face at her level. Pet the dog calmly only if she remains in a sitting position.

Begin a routine of always asking the dog to sit or lie down before petting her. Don’t make a big deal over leaving the house or returning. Although you may have missed your

dog, keep your greeting calm. Crate dog when you are not home. Make her sit before letting her out of the crate. Follow same

rules if she jumps up after letting her out. If the dog is kept outdoors, make her sit before you enter the pen. If she continues to bark and jump in her pen quietly turn around and disappear out of sight. Come back when she stops barking. Practice this routine often. Please note, however, if your dog feels isolated and ignored, she will not only want to jump up, but she will exhibit other signs of separation anxiety like destructive chewing, howling or excessive barking. Remember that dogs are pack animals and crave companionship. If the dog is truly jumping out of lack of attention, you will need to also spend quality time with your dog every day and/or to get her a playmate.

If the dog is allowed up on furniture and beds (i.e. near people's faces) without invitation, she will be much more likely to jump up to obtain this familiar vantage point. If you are having jumping up problems, stop allowing the dog free access to furniture and beds. Teach the dog only to come up when you ask her to do so.



STATION TRAINING FOR DOOR GREETINGSTATION TRAINING FOR DOOR GREETING

You should have already completed the STATION/ SIT/RELEASE AND STATION/DOWN/RELEASE before starting this exercise.

Treats = rank #3 or #4 Lay the station on the floor next to the door. You will need an “assistant” to help you beyond level IV.

REVIEW THE “STATION”, (PRAISE), “DOWN”, (PRAISE), “RELEASE”, (C/T)SEQUENCE, HOLDING THE “DOWN” FOR TEN SECONDS.

REPEAT, AND WHILE YOUR DOG IS IN THE DOWN, LIGHTLY KNOCK ON THE DOOR, LETTING YOUR DOG SEE YOU KNOCK. RELEASE AND (C/T) .

If your dog gets up when you knock, do not give the dog a treat. Repeat the exercise again, closer to the door and with a softer knock until your dog realizes she must stay in the down position until you release her (despite the knocking)

REVIEW THE “STATION”, (PRAISE), “SIT”, (PRAISE), “RELEASE”, (C/T) SEQUENCE,HOLDING THE “DOWN” FOR TEN SECONDS.

REPEAT, AND WHILE YOUR DOG IS IN THE SIT, LIGHTLY KNOCK ON THE DOOR, LETTING YOUR DOG SEE YOU KNOCK. RELEASE AND (C/T) .

REPEAT LEVEL ONE, BUT RING THE DOORBELL. LET THE DOG SEE THAT IT ISYOU RINGING THE BELL.

REPEAT LEVEL TWO, BUT RING THE DOORBELL. LET THE DOG SEE THAT IT ISYOU RINGING THE BELL.

REPEAT LEVEL ONE, BUT HAVE SOMEONE ELSE KNOCK FROM THE OUTSIDE(WITH THE DOOR CLOSED).

REPEAT LEVEL THREE, BUT HAVE SOMEONE ELSE RING THE BELL FROM THE OUTSIDE (WITH THE DOOR CLOSED).

HAVE THE DOG STAY ON ITS STATION WHILE YOU SLOWLY OPEN THE DOOR FORYOUR “GUEST”. QUICKLY CLOSE THE DOOR IF YOUR DOG GETS UP BEFORE YOU RELEASE HIM (AND START OVER).

LEVEL I

LEVEL II

LEVEL III

LEVEL IV

LEVEL V

LEVEL VI

NOTES:

BEHAVIOR WORKSHEET:



If your dog is a puppy and is gnawing on you, it may not seem like a big deal. However, youmay in fact, be reinforcing him for this behavior, which may turn from gnawing as a puppy to biting as an adult. You should take this behavior very seriously, as it could become a very serious problem later on. It is important that everyone in the house follow the same rules for immediate results.

WHY DO DOGS GNAW OR “MOUTH” PEOPLE? This behavior is common in puppies who are teething, but many times, if

learned, becomes biting behavior in an adult. Oftentimes, a dog that mouths a lot is bored and not receiving enough attention.

Make sure your dog is getting enough vigorous exercise each day doing constructive activities with you like retrieving a toy or taking a vigorous walk or run.

Dogs need many different APPROPRIATE things (dog chew toys) to chew on. Make sure you have many “chewables” around the house and yard.

COMMON OWNER MISTAKES: Allowing the dog gnaw when he is a puppy. Some people in the house allow the dog to gnaw, others don’t. Playing tug of war games or games in which you chase the dog. Rough-housing with the dog.

START BY:

NO MORE tug of war games or games in which you chase the dog. (Buy two identical toys and throw one, then hold up the other, until dog releases the first...immediately reward by throwing the second toy). No more rough-housing or wrestling games.

Follow all rules of leadership (see Leadership handout). Make dog sit or lay down to earn all treats, meals, or toys.

Do not allow dog on couches or beds. Tell him “off” when he jumps up and make sure he gets off. Make sure that every person in the house is following the same rules.

Practice making eye contact (the attention command) with your dog every day.

Teach dog to do things like to willingly roll over and show its belly, to give its paw, or to lick you on command. (see homework)

Always be the winner of all games. Take away toys and food at random and do not give them back for a good 15 minutes. Have certain toys that you keep in a

GNAWING &



closet and only pull out for play sessions. Put those toys away as soon as you are finished playing with the dog.



Make your dog move out of your way when you are walking around the house or yard. Don’twalk around him.

Never let your dog dart out doors in front of you; always make him sit while you go first and then release him to go through.

Ask your dog to sit for all petting. Keep your petting session very short and don’t roughly pet the dog. Pet him near his throat area or around his hips.

WHEN THE DOG GNAWS ON YOU: Say "no bite" or "quit it" in a low voice and do the following:

Find (and keep handy) an acceptable chew toy and give it to the dog. Make sure you have several different types of toys placed all around the house. Hand it to the dog and praise if he starts to chew on the toy. Repeat above if he chooses to chew on you again. Be very stubborn about doing this routine over and over again. Do not allow your dog to gnaw on you or others "sometimes".

When he persists in gnawing on you rather than the toy, call a time out. Take the toy and walk away from the dog. Removing your presence will give him the message that gnawing on you causes you to walk away. Let him know exactly where the fun stops.

Biting People

If your dog is biting people (breaking the skin or biting and holding), you need to receive private training because of liability risks. Please contact your instructor for help.

1. Determine the cause of your dog's aggression by making notes about the circumstances under which it occurs. Is it:

a. fear-induced? d. a response to teasing?b. learned? e. predatory?c. territorial? f. hormone-induced?

g. caused by a medical condition?

3. Know the body language signs of aggression:a. hackles up d. serious, fixed, unblinking stareb. ears forward e. growling

c. stiff stance f. tail held straight out and may stiffly wag like a flag waves



If your dog is growling at you or other people, he is communicating that his intent is toeventually bite. Please contact your instructor regarding this behavior.

WHY DO DOGS GROWL? Growling is used by dogs as a warning. Dogs usually growl over territory – you, their house, their yard, their food, their toys. If your dog growls at strangers, you may think that has its purposes for

protection, but what if he growls at your neighbor’s child? Chances are, if your dog growls at just any stranger, your dog may pick the wrong person to growl at. You do not want a dog that cannot tell the difference between a real threat (someone breaking into your house) and the mailman.

If your dog growls at other dogs, his intent is probably to tell them to stay away from his territory. However, as the “leader”, this is your role, not your dog’s. Follow the leadership handout and read below.

COMMON OWNER MISTAKES: Petting the dog as it growls, saying “its alright”. (This reinforces the behavior

and tells the dog to keep doing it!) Some people in the house allow the dog to growl, others don’t. Playing tug of war games or games in which you chase the dog. Rough-housing with the dog.

START BY:

If your dog is growling at another dog, he is getting reinforced by WATCHING THE OTHER DOG’S REACTION (the other dog squirms or runs away). The way to stop his reinforcement is to break his eye contact with that dog; ask your dog to sit and face you instead. If your dog doesn’t respond, give him negative verbal feedback (“wrong!”, “ent-ent!”) and abruptly turn the other way, taking your dog with you. When your dog does look at you, make sure he gets lots of treats (rank #1) and praise.

Be certain you are not rewarding your dog for showing aggression! Don’t pet your dog to "soothe it", saying "its all right". Remember, if you do this, you are reinforcing the dog for growling. A better response would be to say "No growl!", redirect the dog’s attention, and get the dog to perform another incompatible behavior like sitting and facing you or doing a down.

To prevent growling at the wrong person, teach your dog the word “friend” by saying the word everytime someone he likes comes to visit. Praise him while you say “friend” and make sure that person pets the dog and gives him treats. Then, when your neighbor’s child wants to pet your dog, say “friend” and have that child give the dog treats and pet him. He will then understand that the word “friend” means that person is o.k. with you. If you don’t make this clear for him, he may make his own conclusions. (Also, now when there is a knock on the door, you can open it up and tell your dog “friend” when it really is a friend.)

GROWLIN

CHEWING ON INAPPROPRIATE ITEMS



Teach your dog a "release" . Have two identical toys for a play session. Throw one. Show the dog the other and wait until he drops the first. As he does, say “release” and throw the second toy. Practice giving him a toy, then releasing it for a treat.

Crate your dog when you are not home or use a baby gate to confine him to a small area. CRATING YOUR DOG IS NOT ANY MORE CRUEL THAN PUTTING A BABY IN A PLAY PEN...AND IT MAY SAVE YOUR DOG'S LIFE. (See homework handout on crate training/housebreaking) Let your dog earn his freedom in the house by displaying good behavior and self control. Most puppies that learn to go into a crate not only grow out of the need to be in the crate, but also will readily go into the crate to sleep without being told.

Get a separate "box" to store all of dog's toys in. Do NOT allow dog to chew on "old" shoes or socks. Limit his toys to exclusively “dog” toys and keep all other household items in unreachable places. You can coat items that you DO want the dog to chew on with beef or chicken fat. To help him make the distinction, spray the items you do NOT want the dog to chew with lemon juice, cayenne pepper, Bitter Apple (available in pet stores), or Tabasco sauce if possible.

Keep a variety of chewable dog toy items in the "dog toy box". Good chewable toys include Kong toys, Nylabones, baked and sterilized beef bones, pig ears, all cotton knotted rope toys and latex rubber toys with recessed squeakers, and American-made (non-bleached) pressed rawhide (in very limited quantities). Dangerous toys include rawhide chips, non-cotton rope toys, toys with easily removable squeakers, ham or poultry bones or splintery bones. When in doubt about a toy, always follow the advice of your veterinarian or breeder. Certain toys may not be safe for certain breeds of dogs because of their size or composition.



=== Dogs = On = the = Run!! ==

Many new dog owners (and especially new puppy owners) allow their dog the freedom of being off leash before the dog is reallyready. While most young puppies naturally cling to their owners out of insecurity, most adolescent dogs will choose a squirrel, cat, or other dog over returning to their owner. If you take your dog off leash before he has been taught a recall with distractions, your dog is likely to learn that it is more fun not come to you, and worse yet, to end up getting hit by a car. Essentially, its like giving the car keys to a 13-year-old and saying “Go ahead! Drive as fast as you want and have fun!”. Instead, your dog should be taught to come to you and then systematically introduced to distractions before you ever take the dog off leash, especially in an un-fenced area. Think of it as driver’s education training.

If so, your dog only remembers that you called him, and when he came to you, he got punished. Your dog probably has norecollection of the what he did wrong because you re-focused his attention from what he was doing to you. You will need to choose a new recall word, because your dog probably learned very well not to come in response to the original one. The next time your dog misbehaves, go over to him and give him a verbal reprimand right at the place of wrongdoing. Focus your efforts on the actual “thing” the dog was doing (i.e. the trashcan if he was getting into the trash) so the dog associates the feedback with the item and not with you. Of course, you will also need to train an incompatible behavior to what the dog was doing or manage the situation differently to prevent the problem. But the bottom line is not to ask the dog to come to you when he is doing something wrong.

Dogs like this think "come" means "Chase me! Let's have fun!". You will need to choose a new recall word and teach it properly.This process will be most successful if you stop the practice of letting your dog run free and always keep a lead attached to him. Chasing him only cheapens you in his eyes and undermines your authority as the "leader". Let your dog EARN the right to run free by first LEARNING the recall properly. Test him on a long loose leash before ever taking the lead off. Also, make sure there are big rewards given for coming back to you or coming inside – keep a supply of treats and toys handy by the door.

Start today and make a ritual out of always requiring the dog to sit and stay and be released before he is allowed to go in or out of thecar or house or get his food or a treat. It may seem regimented, but if you want results, you need to remember that you have a canine -- not a human being with a lot of fur -- and canines demand leadership and rank order. Leaders go out doors first & control the food.

Do you know what it feels like to be cramped up in a small space like a car all day? Now imagine a two-year old child cramped up inthat space. What happens when they finally get out into some fresh air? You may be tired when you come home from work, but your dog is has “cabin fever” and ready for action. Remember also, that your dog has been genetically selected for thousands of years to perform a task. What is that task for your breed? Herding sheep all day? Retrieving water fowl across large ponds and through lots of tall weeds? You would be surprised how much of a difference it makes to have 15 minute, intense, running or play sessions with your dog in the morning and in the evening. Make time for him and he will respond. Tire him out and he’ll be less likely to want to convince you to run after him.

Statistically, he will probably be stolen, poisoned, abused, attacked by other dogs, or hit by a car. There is a leash law inWake County -- if you are lucky, he will get picked up by animal control before he is harmed. Remember, dogs are 14,000 years of breeding away from wolves. The reason they do not fare well "in the wild" is that dogs were selected for their puppy-like nature and trust of human beings. Wolves do not trust humans instinctively and do not follow cars or try to seek humans out. We domesticated dogs away from wolves and it is our responsibility to make sure that dogs are protected in our urban and suburban societies. Remember that a male dog can smell a female in heat up to five miles away through brick, plaster, or wood. If given the option, he will run to find her, following only his nose and leaving all common sense behind. Dogs bred to hunt will do the same after small game. When your dog roams the neighborhood, he will consider the whole thing to be his “territory”, which will lead to other problems like fighting with other dogs, chasing or killing small animals, chasing cars, and aggression.Don't let the "recall" just happen; anticipate the situation and set your dog up to succeed. Stuff your pockets with treats or toys.Attach a long piece of rope or Flexi lead to your dog and let him think he is running around free. Discreetly pick up the end of the rope and call your dog. Back up slightly. Reel the dog in, praising him all the while and when he reaches you, click and reward him with the treat or toy. Play this game over and over and try it in parks and around the things your dog finds most distracting. Only when your dog will come despite distractions should you try off lead recalls in an enclosed area like a tennis court or baseball field. If your dog decides not to come, go back to the long rope and the distractions. Patience and hard work will be fruitful.

Have you ever caught your dog misbehaving and then said "Come over here right now!"

When you call your dog does he run the other way? Do you chase him? Does his tail wag?

Does your dog bolt out of the car? The house? To his food

Be honest. Does your dog really get all of the exercise he needs for his breed and his age?

What will happen if you just let your dog run free in the

How should you train your dog to come to

Taking the keys away…and going back to driver’s education


WHY DOES YOUR DOG BARK??


Excessive BARKING

The first thing to remember about fixing excessive barking in dogs is that the problem is not like fixing a leaky faucet. Yes, it may be just as annoying, but it's not controlled by an on and off switch. Stopping excessive barking in dogs is a lot more like stopping a baby from crying.

Like a baby, your dog barks in order to communicate. If your dog feels that he isn't getting his point across, he will use louder and more intense versions of communication.

Some dogs focus their barking mostly at people, some bark at other dogs or animals; many dogs do a little (or a lot) of both.

Observe your dog when he is barking excessively. Is he outside, pointed toward the house? Is he inside, looking out the window? Does he bark when you leave the house? Is he barking at a cat that has wandered into your yard? Does he bark at the same things every day? Does he anticipate the things he likes to bark at (i.e. wait at one end of the yard watching for the mailman about the time he arrives each day?)

Another reason dogs bark is instinct. They were genetically selected over the years for the intensity of their bark because it served a working purpose. Terriers barked at, chased, and dug out rodents. Herding dogs barked at livestock to move them along. Guard dogs barked at intruders. What was your breed of dog originally intended to do? What situations in the dog's life are closest to that original purpose? (i.e. Are the "sheep" in your herding dog's life the neighbor children that run along the fence line?)

After you understand why your dog barks and what each of the barks is intended for, one of the best ways to reduce barking is to put it under the control of your command. Yes, teach your already-outspoken canine to speak. Right now your dog speaks whenever he wants to and for as long as he wants to. What you want is to control when he speaks and be able to tell him when he has had enough to say.

The first step is to teach him to speak. (Which should be a snap, right?) When he is speaking fluently on command, change the game from getting a treat when he speaks to getting a treat when you say "enough" and he stops. Ask him to use his not-so-new speaking talent on appropriate occasions and then tell him "enough!". For instance, if someone pulls up into the driveway, you can ask him "Who's there?" and let him give a few guard-dog-like barks. Then tell him "enough" and treat him for quieting down. The best way to do this is to have a friend pull up in the driveway on purpose and then back out. Repeat again and again until your friend can stop the car, then get out of the car, then approach the house, with your dog responding to "enough" on command.

PUT THE BARK UNDER



When your dog understands the difference between "speak" and "enough", you must give him step-wise quizzes to really bring the message home. For instance, if your dog barks in the car at other people walking by the car, you start by driving through a crowded parking lot. Put him in a crate within someone's arm's reach and when he barks, tell him "enough". If he refuses, take a blanket and cover the entire crate. When he is quiet, pull up one corner. As soon as he barks, its back to the "night-time canary cage". Repeat this over and over until he learns that he can earn the pleasure of looking out the window by being quiet.

If your dog barks when you leave, put your dog in his crate, leave the house, wait until he stops barking (take a good book the first time) and then return with praise when he quiets down.

While it is always important to at least investigate the reason your dog is barking, do not fall into the trap of being trained by your dog. In other words, if you put your dog in his crate and he barks because he wants to come out, and you give in and open the crate, who do you think is wearing the collar in this relationship? In this case, your dog is like the baby fussing in a crib who is really just tired. Let your dog bark himself to boredom. Make the point that you are NOT going to let him out simply because he is complaining. Wait until he tuckers out and is silent for five minutes and then go praise him and let him out. A few times through this routine and he will start to notice that the barking isn't getting him anywhere. (Incidentally, this technique of ignoring the dog is not going to work if your dog is outside rather than inside in a crate.In a crate in a quiet room, there should only be one reason to bark and no rewards for barking. Outside, there are thousands of reasons to bark and lots of reinforcement for doing so...like people running away. If your dog is barking outside, you may want to use creative avoidance.)

Another very effective tool in dealing with dog behavior problems is to do whatever you can to change the dog's environment. For instance, if your dog barks at neighborhood children running home from school past your fence, put up some large bushes with briars along the fence. Move his dog house so that he cannot stand on top of it and use it as a look-out post. Use a baby gate in the house to deny him privilege into rooms with windows that overlook “barkable” things.

Figure out what your dog enjoys the most about his barking -- his reward -- and remove the reward as far away from the picture as possible. If the reward is something like squirrels or birds, place a squirrel or bird feeder in an area of your yard that the dog cannot see or access. This will lure the birds and squirrels to another part of the yard and give your dog less reinforcement for barking.

If you have tried all of these suggestions, and have considered all of your available options, but your landlord is still threatening to evict you and your dog, there is a humane alternative to simply giving up your apartment (or your dog, for that matter).You can actually have your dog "de-barked". As strange as that may sound, there is a very safe and simple operation that essentially will turn the volume way down on your dog's bark. The dog will still have a bark, but it will sound more like a cough. If this operation is necessary to save your dog from the pound and to restore sanity in your household, it is a worthwhile last resort measure.

DON'T LET THE BARK CONTROL

USE CREATIVE

AS A LAST

SET THE DOG



“Catching Flies” is an exercise used to re-direct your dog’s natural energy on a walk into a focused game with you. This exercise is especially useful for dogs that like to pull on leash on a walk and are easily distracted by other dogs, animals, and people. The

idea is to teach your dog to catch flying treats in mid air as you walk; this way, the dog is totally focused on you during the walk, rather than everything else around him.

1. Begin in a quiet location indoors or inside a fence without your dog on lead. Make sure the dog is hungry. Choose a small treat that does not crumble or stick to your fingers, but is very

motivating to the dog. Stand facing the dog and toss the treat in an arc in the air toward the dog. You can use the command “catch it” or something similar. Practice over and over until your dog gets the idea and likes catching the treat.

2. Get the dog used to catching the treat and moving. Now begin to back up, tossing the treat as you walk. When the dog has the idea, pivot around and walk forward. Toss the treat out and to

the side now.

3. Take your show on the road. Choose a quiet walking route and practice the exercise on lead on a walk. Put your treats in a “fanny pack” pouch so that they are easily accessible.

4. Choose a more distracting route.

Hints: If the dog chooses to ignore you and the treats on the walk, you should end the walk and abruptly turn around and walk the other way. You should also make sure your treats are very motivating. “Power steering” collars may be used in conjunction with this exercise for forceful pullers.



Doggie Yoga is an exercise designed to teach your dog self control. The idea is for your dog to remain in a relaxed “down” position for until you tell him to get up. If practiced regularly, your dog will begin to learn to “relax” and will be able to stay still for extended periods of time. Imagine being able to eat dinner while your dog stays in a down! This exercise does take some patience and persistence on the part of the handler. However, if practiced several times per week, this exercise can significantly increase the calmness of a dog’s behavior.

1. Begin in a quiet location on a soft surface. Get yourself a comfortable cushion to sit on and maybe choose a time that your favorite

television show is on. Put your dog’s leash on. Clear the area of any toys or distractions.

2. Tell your dog to lay down and to stay. Place your hand on your dog’s shoulder blades to steady him or stand on his leash so that

the tension of the leash keeps the dog in a dog position. Keep your dog in a stay for THIRTY MINUTES.

3. If your dog tries to get up, give him wrong choice feedback and gently place him back into a down. It is important to do this exercise for the full thirty minutes; the first time you do this, your dog

will probably not want to stay still at all. If you persist over the course of the full thirty minutes, your dog will finally get the message.

4. Before you release your dog, make sure he is in a relaxed position. If he is still struggling at the moment that thirty minutes is up, wait until he relaxes again before releasing. Give your dog a very yummy treat or a hearty play session when you are finished.

Note: If your dog is the nervous insecure type, you may pet your dog with long slow strokes during this time. If your dog is the type to want to mouth your hands, do not pet your dog. Instead, you may want to stand on the dog’s leash to prevent this behavior.

5. Repeat the session above until the dog will stay in a down for thirty minutes without trying to get up.

6. Add some mild distractions like food or toys.

7. Try the exercise in a distracting location like a park or pet store.



POWER STEERING COLLARS

Disclaimer: All of these “power steering” collars are intended for TRAINING USE ONLY. They are not intended to be used as a means of punishment, but rather, a means of being able to physically manipulate the dog’s field of view and to re-direct its forward motion so that positive reinforcement-oriented training can occur. DO NOT LEAVE THESE COLLARS ON THE DOG WITHOUT A LEASH AND A HUMAN ATTACHED. Any of these collars can get caught on a crate or other item, and can cause choking. They should be used for training purposes only, in a training session when the handler is actively working with the dog. After the training session is over, remove the power steering collar. Handlers should plan to introduce the collar, and work with it while the dog is still wearing its regular collar. The handler should then wean the dogs from the power steering collar gradually by switching the leash back and forth between collars. Teamworks Dog Training, LLC is not responsible for injuries incurred by the use or misuse of these power steering collars. By accepting one of these power steering collars for training use, you agree to disclaimer above.

GENTLE LEADERS(Head halters)

MARTIN-GALE COLLARS

EASY WALK HARNESSES

HOW THEY WORK

These collars work like a halter works on a horse. By controlling the nose, you control where the dog looks, and thus can control the direction he walks in. Also, the slight pressure exerted on the top of the dog’s nose is interpreted by the dog as a gesture of control.

These collars tighten up when the dog pulls, preventing the collar from slipping over the neck.

These harnesses exert pressure against the dog’s chest as it pulls forward, creating a natural “opposition reflex”. The dog will pull back towards you against the pressure.

WHAT THEY CAN BE USED

FOR

Changing the direction the dog is looking in can help prevent staring, lunging, & barking. Gentle Leaders can prevent the dog from being positively rewarded by the reaction he gets from the dog he is staring, lunging or barking at, and can help re-direct attention back to the handler.

These collars are excellent for dogs for whom normal collars slip right off the head (sighthounds, miniature breeds).

These harnesses work for dogs that pull forward.They can be used on all dogs, even those with “pushed in” (brachycephalic) noses.

LIMITATIONS These collars cannot be used on dogs with “pushed in” (brachycephalic) noses. Some dogs may experience hair loss where the collar sits on the top of the nose.The collar fit will depend on the angle between the nose and the forehead – the closer to 90 degrees, the better the fit. NOTE: THESE COLLARS ARE NOT MUZZLES.

These collars are most effective on collar-sensitive breeds. The most important feature of this collar is that it will not slip off.

These harnesses do not prevent jumping, lunging, or getting eye contact with dogs or people. They can alter a dog’s ability to run, and cannot be used while dogs do agility.

See page 2



POWER STEERING COLLARS CONTINUED…GENTLE LEADERS

(Head halters)MARTINGALES

EASY WALK HARNESSES

WARNINGS Do not allow your dog to thrash his head back and forth as a reaction to this collar; this motion is bad for the dog’s neck and spine.Introduce the Gentle Leader properly so this reaction does not happen. Also, some dogs may show signs of being “subdued” when using this collar. This is a normal psychological effect of exerting pressure on the nose.

These collars should be properly fitted.

Harnesses that are too loose may slip off the dog.

COLLAR FIT This collar should be adjusted so that the neck portion fits around the dog’s head snugly enough that it does not pull over the dog’s head, but that two fingers can easily be inserted under the collar. The nose piece should be adjusted using the plastic clasp so that the dog cannot easily paw the nose loop off.

These collars need to be adjusted to the size of the dog’s neck.

These collars should be properly fitted, but should not be fitted tightly, as they can cause chaffing and soreness under the armpits.

TAKING THE COLLAR ON

& OFF

For some dogs, you should be able to manually slip the nose loop off the dog and use the neck portion as a regular collar. If the dog has an fairly long nose, you may have to simply undo the collar to take it off.

Unsnap and snap the collar.

The different colored band goes across the belly of the dog. Clip together the dominant colored part of the harness and slip it over the dog’s head. The belly band can then be clipped under the dog’s left arm.

COLLAR MECHANICS

When the dog pulls, you use collar to re-direct head and forward motion away from object of interest and back to you. When the dog re-focuses on you, PRAISE AND TREAT!

These collars require proper fitting and snugging to go on and off properly.

Keep pressure on the leash when your dog pulls forward. Release pressure when he stops pulling.

COLLAR INTRODUCTION

Two week’s acclimation time minimum. Dog is first fed treats through the nose loop until he gets used to it resting on the top of his nose. Put the collar on, and then dog is rewarded heartily for walking nicely and not pawing at the collar. Collar should be worn around house to acclimate. When on a walk, keep leash short so that dog does not paw at collar.

No formal introduction needed.

No formal introduction needed.



CALMING SIGNALS:UNDERSTANDING YOUR DOG’S NON-VERBAL LANGUAGE

A short summary and illustration of the work by Turid Rugaas of Norway

Reference: Turid Rugaas. On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals. 1997. Calming Signals: What Your Dog Tells You. (video) 2000. Both are available from Legacy by Mail and are excellent references well worth having! (360) 683-9646 P.O. Box 697 Carlsborg, WA 98324 www.legacy-by-mail.com

What Are Calming Signals?Calming signals are certain behaviors used to communicate from dog to dog that no conflict is desired and no harm is intended. Dogs use these signals with each other to calm each other down and to help keep the peace in a pack. Calming signals are all about preventing and avoiding an argument or conflict. Sometimes dogs even use these signals to calm themselves down when they feel stressed. Many times dogs give these signals to humans, but they go unrecognized and un-returned – many times this lack of understanding leads to misunderstandings between humans and dogs.

TURNING OF THE HEAD / AVERTING THE EYES TURNING THE BODY AWAY TONGUE FLICKING FREEZING POSITION / STOPPING / SITTING / LAYING FLAT WALKING SLOWLY WITH TAIL MOVING SLOWLY YAWNING / STRETCHING SNIFFING SCRATCHING LIFTING THE PAW / BOWING URINATING SHAKING OFF PRETENDING TO BE INTERESTED IN SOMETHING ELSE SPLITTING UP (A THIRD DOG COMES IN BETWEEN TWO DOGS THAT ARE

IN CONFLICT – NOT FRONTALLY, BUT FROM THE SIDE OR BEHIND ARCHING PATHS (AWAY FROM EACH OTHER TO COMMUNICATE

THAT NO HARM IS INTENDED)


Please note: splitting does not mean putting oneself in the middle of a dog fight…it means applying it when two dogs are interacting energetically, but neither is giving calming signals. It’s a means of saying “o.k., guys, knock it off”, but should not be used in a dog fight. Dog fights are best disrupted by making a loud noise away from the dogs….like clapping your hands, shaking up a can of soda and letting it spurt out, throwing water on the dogs, or dropping something on the floor. Never, ever put your hands or body anywhere near dogs’ heads to break up a dog fight.


How Can Calming Signals Be Used By Humans?Humans should learn to recognize calming signals so that they understand when a dog is stressed. If a dog is giving these signals, he’s waiting for the signals to be returned to show that no conflict is desired. If the signals are not returned and the stressful event continues, the dog may continue with more signals to try to communicate again, or may try to

leave the situation. If the dog is unable to leave the situation and is forced to deal with the stress, the dog may have no other choice but to react defensively. (This is often the scenario of many dog biting incidents with children, although the calming signals before the conflict often go un-noticed.)

Humans can learn to recognize these calming signals in training and realize that a dog is feeling stressed and trying to communicate that feeling….not being disobedient.

Humans can learn to mimic these same signals (especially the yawning, head turning, and stretching with arms pointed down) to calm a dog down that is worried.

Humans can use the technique of “splitting” to maintain better relationships between dogs and to communicate desire for pack harmony.

Humans can use arching paths on walks to help dogs learn to properly communicate to other dogs and to help them avoid conflicts.

Humans can learn to avoid dog aggression by recognizing these calming signals and returning the calming signals to let the dog know that no harm is intended.

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