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FINNLIFE®
LOG CABINSBUILD GUIDE, PARTSAND PLANS LIST
Introduction
ContentsFoundations & Preparations Eaves fascia boardsTool list - what you need Roofing shinglesDelivery, Checking and storage Gable fascia boards and cover boardsFoundations & Preparations FloorboardsLaying out, checking and sorting Skirting BoardInstalling your floor beams Air ventsLaying your DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) Exploded DiagramFirst layer of wall boards Parts ListBuilding up the walls Timber treatmentsInstalling Window & Doors Wood - a natural materialInstalling you Gable Triangles Health and safetyRidge and roof beams Customer serviceRoof Boards Glossary
The images displayed within this literature are forillustration purpose only and generic for cabin build.They may not appear exactly as your finished product.
Before you commence with construction of your new log cabinplease ensure you have a complete set of components.Using the checklist provided at the back of this booklet tick off each part asyou remove it from the transit packaging.
Whoever does the job, the first stage is to familiarise yourselfwith these instructions. The trick is to be methodical and toplan ahead.
If you're looking for information on a specific topic , refer tothe contents list below or to the the glossary. For a completeparts list and detailed wall and floor plans please see thesepartat cabin specific instruction manual.
Those lazy summer afternoons may be beckoning, but don’trush to build your log cabin. Take the time to understand howit goes together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-freepleasure.
No specialist skills are required. Anyone can build a logcabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair ofhands. Construction times will vary depending on your skillsand the number of people who help you.
Of course you don’t have to do it yourself. You could hand thisbooklet to a professional builder, then sit back until hepresents you with the keys to your finished cabin.
2
In most cases you do not need planning permission to build alog cabin in your garden; it is usually also exempt from buildingregulations. It would be advantageous to contact your local
authority to ensure they are happy for you to proceed beforearranging installation.
Chisel Drill with timber bits Hammer Ladder Mallet
Mitre square Pencil PVA glue Safety gloves Safety goggles
Saw Screwdriver Screwdriver (electric)
Stiff brush
End grain preserver
Tape measure Quick grips Clamps Damp proof membrane
Sharp knife Spirit level
Planning consent and building regulations
Your log cabin comes wrapped in polythene for protection, andstrapped to one or more pallets (depending on the model) forease of transport.
The transit packaging allows for ventilation: it is not waterproof.Please store your wrapped cabin in a dry place, protected fromrain and sun. Ensure cabin components are not in contact withthe ground.
Delivery, checking and storage
Tool list - what you need
3
Foundations and preparationYou can build your log cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option youchoose, a firm and level base is essential. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. For your specificbase size please see your floor plan in the model specific manual. An uneven or unstable base will affect thefinal outcome of the log cabin, doors and windows will NOT function properly, walls may bow and joints maynot fit together.
Concrete option:
Remove all organic matter before you start workon the foundations.
Concrete foundations should always be the exactbase size stated in the Floor Plan to minimise theamount of water that the base will carry. It isrecommended the concrete base be 150mm thick.
Gravel option:
Remove all organic matter before you start workon the foundations.
Foundations should always be laid larger than thefootprint of your cabin – 300mm wider in everydirection and 150mm thick when usingcompressed type 1 gravel.
For compressed gravel foundations you shoulduse retaining boards to keep the gravel in placeand compressed.
4
Before you begin to build you should check thatyou have a complete set of components. Check offeach piece against the parts list as you remove itfrom the transit packaging. In the unlikely eventthat there is a missing component, or that acomponent has been damaged in transit, pleasecontact the technical helpline, quoting the cabinreference number displayed on the packing labelof the transit packaging.
As you check off components lay them out on theground around the site of the cabin. Place eachcomponent close to where it will be used. Layingout helps you visualise how the cabin goestogether, and it means that components are readyto hand when you need them. You can use theBuilding Plans and Parts List as a guide to whatgoes where. Be careful not to lay components tooclose to the cabin footprint. Give yourself adequateroom to work in.
Laying out, checking and sorting
!!Please note: Do not leave parts directly on wet ground for extended periods, as excessive moisturecan damage or cause the timbers to swell.
5
!!
Installing your floor beamsYour finished cabin rests on a series of beams known as floor beams. They provide a solid base and raise the cabin off theground for ventilation.
To prevent damp rising into your cabin, each floor beam should be covered by two strips of damp-proof membrane.(Product not supplied)You can purchase a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and cut into strips as required.
Floor beams are easy to identify. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them appear darker incolour.
Although each beam is pressure treated, any freshly exposed timber or cuts must be treated with an end grain preserver.(Product not supplied)
*The layout of floor beams depends on your cabin model; please refer to your Building Plans towards the end of this guide.
Since all floor beams come in standard 2.4m lengths, you will have to join lengths of floor beams for walls which are in excess of 2.4m.
Ensure you have checked off your components for your foundations, as you will need to cut these parts to the required lengths.
The first stage in creating your floor beams is to form an external ring foundation which the cabin wall logs will rest upon.Refer to your floor plan towards the end of this guide for detail.
There are two different types of connections.
Corner Bracket (A)These brackets are used to connect the corners only of your external ring foundation.DO NOT use on the internal floor beams!
Connecting Strips (B)These connecting strips are to be used to join lengths of floor beams together.
Starting in one corner, join two of your lengthsof your floor beams together to form the start of your ring foundation.Ensure they are flush on the corner and the corners are square.
When fixing using brackets andstrips, please ensure the screws are fixed on the inner side of the timber.
When using these connection brackets please ensure that you use the fixings supplied and always connect on the internal edges of your foundation layer. see image above.This way the fixings are hidden on the inside and there are no unsightly brackets exposed on the external foundation layer.
Ring Foundation
A B
6
Continue to cut your floor beams and secure together to make the ring foundation.To minimize waste we advise you to use the off-cut to create the start of your next row or run.
Ring Foundation
Now insert your remaining floor beams into position within your ring foundation.Continue to cut and join these together to make your framework up.Refer to your floor plan for guidance to the position of these beams.
Floor Beams
Max 600mm Spacings
Fix the floor beams to the inner faces of the foundation layer by driving screws in at an angle of about 45°. Use two screws at either end. (Screws not supplied) When you have fixed all the floor beams, adjustthe position of your foundation layer to makesure it sits squarely on your base foundation.
Installing your floor beams (Continued)
7
!!
!!
Laying your DPM (Damp Proof Membrane)Your cabin rests on a set of floor beams, these will be in contact with your foundation base.
We advise that you place a DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) on top of your ring foundation and floor beams to prevent moisture ingress into the cabin walls.
Cut a sheet of DPM into strips roughly 68mm wide for both the ring foundation and floor beams.
It is critical to fit a DPM according to instructions.
Line your strips of DPM around the perimeter area of your ring foundation.Position the DPM to leave approx 18mm of exposed area of ring foundation.You will need to lay 2 layers of DPM around theperimeter area of the ring foundation only.You will find you have a large amount of excessDPM on the inside edge of the ring foundation. Do not worry at this stage as the bottom layer will be positioned under your floor boards and the top layer must be turned up and secured tothe cabin walls as instructed within this guide.
Cut further strips to the width of your central floor beams. Approx 68 mm as these will needto be laid on top of the floor beams.
*Please note that when your cabin is fullyconstructed, a line of sealant must be applied around the base of the cabin walls, between your ring foundation and the bottom ofthe cabin.This is to prevent moisture from sitting on your ring foundation.
18mm 18mm68mm
Perimeter
Area
8
The orientation of the half height wall boards in relation to the floorbeams may vary from those shown. The images shown are for illustrationpurpose only.
The first layer of wall boardsWall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s worth running astiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray sawdust.Sawdust-free joints make a better fit. Walls are built by laying wall boards in alternate layers at right anglesto each other.
Start with the half-height wall boards. They formthe first and lowest level. (Refer to the parts andplans list for guidance)
*If your cabin includes internal walls, also lay thehalf-height wall boards that form the lowest layer.Refer to the Wall Plans for guidance. Payparticular attention to the location of any notchesin the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. Theposition of these notches determines where theinterlocking walls go.
Lay the first level of full-height wall boards acrossthe ends of, and at right angles to, the half-heightwall boards. The overlapping corner joints slottogether. *If your full-height boards includecut-outs for doors, make sure you lay them in theappropriate position.
!!Please note the floor beams shown within thisguide are for illustration purpose only and maynot represent your floor beam layout.
9
Now adjust the position of the underlying,outermost floor beams. Slide them inwardsslightly to create an internal lip, this should be aminimum mm, please ensure the floor beamsdo not protrude externally past the edge of thewalls, The adjustment creates a lip on which thecabin floorboards will eventually rest.
*Once again, if your cabin includes internal walls,also lay the full-height wall boards that form thelowest layer. Refer to the Wall Plans for guidance.Pay particular attention to the location of anynotches in the wall boards ofmulti-roomed cabins. The position of thesenotches determines where the interlockingwalls go.
Fix one end only of one of the half-heightwallboard to the underlying outermost floor beamby driving a fixing through the base of the cornerjoint. Leave the other three corners loose. Ifnecessary, make adjustments to the internal floorbeams to retain an even spacing between them.
20
10
Check that the structure is square by comparingthe lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary,you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wallboards on the one corner that you have alreadysecured.
Fix the half-height wallboards to the rest of thefloor beams
Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so thatyou can drive fixings through the three remainingcorner joints into the outermost floor beams.
11
!!
!!
Building up the wallsIndividual wall boards are identified by reference to the Wall Plans and Parts List, and by measuring them.
Start laying the second layer of wall boards. Bearin mind that the wall that contains the door willconsist of two separate wall boards with a door-width gap between.
To ensure a snug fit, you should tap each layerdown on to the layer below.
Do not hammer wall boards directly.
Use a scrap piece of timber to take the blows asthis will offer adequate protection for the tongues.
Do not hammer too hard.
12
You can now continue building up the walls byslotting together alternate layers of wall boards.Keep the heights of the internal (*if you havethem) and external wall boards even all theway up.
After each layer, check that the cabin is square byre-measuring the cross-diagonals. Check alsothat each layer is level.
Remember to stop at various points to install thedoors / windows.
13
fixing the door frames
Now slot the left-hand jamb
over the joints in the left
hand side of the doorway.
Once again the thicker side
goes on the inside, which
leaves the door hinges facing
outwards. Tap the door jamb
home with hammer blows
softened by a timber off cut.
The door and frame come
in two separate parts: door
plus left-hand jamb and
loose right-hand jamb. The
door opens outwards. Make
sure you install it the right
way round.
When all wall boards have
been laid, only then can you
install the door and frame in
the front wall of your cabin.
Install it with the hinges
facing outwards on the left.
Slot the right-hand jamb
over the protruding joints in
the right hand side of the
doorway. Note that the slot
in the door jamb is not
central: the thicker side goes
on the inside of the cabin.
The lower end slides over
the lowest wall board.
Use a hammer to tap the
door jamb home, using an
off cut of timber to soften
the blow.
Please note the floorbeams run fromfront to back on thismodel.
14
Check that the door hangs
vertically and that it opens
and closes. When you’re
happy that the door opens
freely, screw the two door
jambs to the wall boards.
Drive in screws from the
inside of the door jambs
into the walls boards into
the highest and the lowest
board possible.
After the cabin has settled
for a couple of weeks,
loosen the screws in the
door jambs and then re-
screw to allow for
movements in the timbers.
Please note the floorbeams run fromfront to back on thismodel.
15
Windows*The instructions that follow refer to windows in the plural. Some cabins only have one window; othersfeature a variety of windows. Refer to the Wall Plans and Parts List to see where the windows go in yourcabin. Note how many layers of boards to lay in each relevant wall before you start to createwindow-sized gaps.
*Some cabins feature open-sided gaps instead of windows. The method of construction is the same, exceptthat the gaps are larger and remain unfilled. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List to see where theopen-sided gaps go in your cabin.
Windows supplied come in a variety of styles and materials. Please see Parts List for details.
Please note: install your windows the correct wayensuring your windows function correctly beforeproceeding to build your cabin.
When you have laid the number of boardsindicated on your Building Plans and Parts List,start laying shorter-length boards in the walls thatcontain windows until you have a window-sizedgap two or three layers deep.
Windows come as finished units with wide groovessimilar to those on the door frames. Slide themvertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to ensure they go all theway down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows.
Check that the windows open correctly and thatthe frames are square and vertical. Misalignedwindows will not open properly.
16
Finishing the walls*If your cabin features an internal wall, the sequence is a little more complicated. Refer to your Wall Plansfor guidance.
Continue laying wall boards according to thelayout of the Wall Plans and Parts List.
The last few layers of side wall boards in somecabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps tosupport an overhanging canopy. Refer to the WallPlans and Parts List for guidance.
Lay angled gable boards in sequence beginningwith the longest. Take care with the alignment ofthe angled gable boards. The sloping roof lineshould be symmetrical and even at both gableends.
Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gableboards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at anangle through the sloping ends of the gableboards.
17
!!
Ridge and roof beamsPlease note: In some adverse weather conditions during the building process, we would advise customers toattach the storm battens (if supplied) before laying the roof boards / panels as a safety precaution.
Building up the gable ends reveals a succession ofslots for the roof beams. As each slot appears, tapin a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side ofeach roof beam lies flush with the slope of thegable. Nail through into the gable boards tosecure.
Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of thegable ends. Secure by nailing into the uppermostgable board.
The ridge of your cabin roof is supported by a ridgebeam; the slopes of the roof are supported onparallel roof beams.
18
Roof boards
Mark the centre line on the front and rear faces ofthe ridge beam.
Tack an eaves fascia board temporarily with nailsto the ridge beam so that one edge is flush withthe marked centre line.
Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on.
When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as aguide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards terminate in a flush ridge line.
!!
When constructing the cabin during thesummer periods, we advise to leavesmall gaps between the roof boards toallow expansion for the boards duringthe winter months. Where as buildingduring the winter months we wouldadvise knocking the boards together, toreduce any gap appearing during the hotand dry periods.
!!
Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof,starting from the front. The leading edge of thefirst roof board should be set 5mm from the endsof the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost endof the roof board should be flush with thetemporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail eachroof board to the ridge beam and every roof beam,driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at rightangles to the roof slope.
19
Work through, board-by-board, to the rear gable.Make sure that the eaves line created by the loweredges of the roof boards is as straight as possible.
The last roof board may project beyond the reargable. Tack it down lightly and mark on theunderside where it meets the ends of the ridgeand roof beams.
Remove the final roof board and saw it lengthways5mm inside the marked line. Lay it back on theroof and nail down.
Remove the temporary guide batten from theridge beam, then repeat stages for the other sideof the roof.
20
Eaves fascia boards
Check that the eaves line created by the roofboards is reasonably straight. If necessary, use asaw to trim it flush.
Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular tothe roof boards, and flush with their uppersurface. You need one piece for each side of thecabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roofboards.
21
30mm
100mm
30mm
100mm
100mm
100mm 100mm
100mm
100mm
100mm
1
4 3
2
100mm
230mm
If you have a guttering set, please ensure that you leave a30mm overhang to allow the rain water to run directly intothe guttering.
Before fixing the felt on the roof ensure that the eavesfascia has been fixed to the ends of the roof boards.
Once you have cut the felt into 4 even length strips its timeto secure the felt to the roof.
Fixing the first layer. Starting from the lower edge of thefelt (I) your first fixing will need to be 100mm up from thelowest edge. Fix evenly 230mm apart across the roof (see diagram).
You may wish to use some felt adhesive to stick the feltinto position (Advised in high wind areas). (Adhesive notsupplied). Finally fix the top of the felt 100mm down fromthe top of the felt. Secure in the same process. Ensurethat the creases are removed from the felt before fixing.
Repeat the same process for the opposite side (2).
Fixing the final two layers (3 & 4). Once you have securedeach side of the felt to the roof, lay the final layers evenlyover the ridge of the cabin. You may wish to use a feltadhesive to add extra support to the top layer of felt(adhesive not supplied).
Fix the felt 100mm up from each of the edges and fixevenly 230mm along the length of the roof.
Repeat the process for the opposite side, ensuring thereare no creases in the felt.
Roofing feltFelt roof with gutteringRoofing felt
22
If you do not have a guttering set, allow a 70mm overhangto allow the felt to be rolled and folded underneath.
Before fixing the felt to the roof ensure that the loweredge of the roof has been cut back square.Once you have cut the felt into 4 even length strips its timeto secure the felt to the roof.
Fixing the first layer. Lay the felt so that it lays over theedge of the roof boards by 70mm. This is so the felt can befolded around the edge of the roof and securedunderneath by the eaves fascia.
Once the felt is in position secure the top edge of the felt100mm from the top and fix evenly across the length every230mm (see diagram). You may wish to use some feltadhesive to stick the felt into position (advised in high windareas) (adhesive not supplied).
Fix the felt 100mm up from each of the edges and fixevenly 230mm along the length of the roof.
Repeat the process for the opposite side (2), ensuringthere are no creases in the felt.
Fixing the final layers (3 & 4). Once you have secured eachside of the felt to the roof, lay the final layers evenly overthe ridge of the cabin. You may wish to use a felt adhesiveto add extra support to the top layer of the felt (adhesivenot supplied). Fix the felt 100mm up from each of theedges and fix evenly 230mm along the length of the roof.Repeat the process for the opposite side, ensuring thereare no creases in the felt. Once you have fixed the finallayer on the top, it’s time to secure the lower sections forthe felt. Roll the felt round underneath the roof boards andsecure the felt with the eaves fascia board (see diagram).
Felt roof without guttering
70mm
100mm
100mm
100mm 100mm
100mm
100mm1
4 3
2
100mm
230mm
70mmOverhang
23
Gable fascia boards and cover boards
Pencil in the vertical centre line on the front end ofthe ridge beam.
Align gable fascia boards so that the cross-cutangled ends are flush with the vertical pencil markon the ridge beam and the upper edges of theboards are flush with the upper surface of theshingles. Attach the fascia boards by nailing to theends of the ridge and roof beams using theprovided nails.
Repeat the process for the opposite end.
24
Place gable fascia cover boards if supplied withyour cabin over the upper edge of the gable fascia.Lay them perpendicular to the gable fascia so thattheir front edge is flush with the front face of thefascia. Fix them by nailing through to the gablefascia.
Repeat for the other gable end.
Nail a gable diamond at each end of your cabin sothat it covers the join between the two gable fasciaboards.
25
!!
!!
Floor BoardsPlease note:When constructing the cabin during the summer periods, we advise to leave a slight small gaps between the floor boards to allow expansion of the boards during the winter months. Where as during the winter months we would advise knocking the boards together to reduce any gaps appearing during the hot and dry periods.
If you are going to treat the floorboards in some way, cover them with cardboard or paper until the time comes to apply thetreatment.Untreated floorboards get dirty easily. Lay the floorboards last . That way you minimize the chance of getting them dirty when working on other tasks.
Your cabin will be supplied with floor boards which have tongue & grooves on four sides.
Firstly check that you have the correct amount of floorboards. (Refer to your parts list for details)
Before you lay your first board you will need toadjust the DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) layers you laid previously at the start of the build.
You will have laid two layers of DPM, thefloorboards will need to be positioned only onthe bottom layer of DPM.(See illustration)
The top layer of DPM will need to be lifted upand secured to the wall. You can temporallytack the top layer to the wall - Keeping it clear of the floorboards.
You will need to cut in the corners of the top layer to allow you to turn the DPM up.
The first floorboard which you lay within your cabin should be positioned 10mm away from the cabin walls.
Do Not cut through the bottom layer of DPM!
Floorboard
Wall Board
Floor Board
Bottom DPMTop DPM
Ring Foundation
10mm
26
Starting at the front of the cabin, insert your firstfloorboard into position pushing it up to the internalcorner.
Ensure you allow a 10mm expansion gap at the edge & end of the board mark a line allowing10mm clearance area around the post.
Secure using 2 nails per floor beam.You may find that the length of floor board overhangs the floor beam, do not worry as the next floor board will interlock with this board producing a secure and stable surface.
Lift up the top layer of DPM and fold it up thewall as shown earlier.Lay the first floor board into position on top of the bottom layer of DPM.Once you are happy with the position of the board,secure it to the floor beams.
Locate your next floorboard as you may need to completethe first row,Position the board so the are butted up together opposite edge to opposite edge. Tongue to tongue or groove to groove see image.
Expansion Gap
27
Slide the board so that it is in line with the first floorboard laid, and position so that it has a 10mm clearance from the edge of the wall for expansion.
Use a pencil to mark a line where the first floor board ends and cut.
With the board cut, rotate the floor board 180degrees and slot into position.The remaining piece of floor board will be the start of your next row.
10mm Expansion Gap
Groove
Grooves
Boards may be orientated differently than shown.Check which edges have tongues and grooves.
Tongue
GroovesTongue
Tongue
Grooves
28
Slot your board into position ensuring you have allowedenough clearance for expansion.Before securing into position, lifted the top layer of DPM only to allow you to fix down to the floor beam.
Secure using 2 nails per floor beam.
Repeat the process until the Penultimate row of floor boards.
Cut you final row of boards to the width of you cabin.
29
Measure from the edge of the penultimate floor board to the wall and reduce the measurement by 10mm for expansion.
Transfer your measurement to the final board,draw a line on the correct edge down the length of the board and cut.
Slot the Penultimate board and final boards together
and carefully slot into position ensuring
the top layer of DPM has been lifted up and attached to the walls.
Once the final board have been placed into positionSecure using 2 nails per floor beam.
30
Skirting boards
Skirting comes and is supplied at the correctlengths required, fix using the nails supplied.
Once the floorboards have been nailed down, youcan nail skirtings directly to the wall boards.
31
Locate the air vents (RO)
and the fixings.
Decide on the location of
the air vents, this should be
on opposing walls.
The first air vent should be
placed on the 2nd wall log
from the bottom approx
300mm in from the corner
Use a 25mm drill bit and
drill 4 holes evenly as shown
in the diagram.
Attach air vent (RO) as
show in the diagram using
the fixings supplied.
Attach air vent (RO) as
show in the diagram using
the fixings supplied.
Place the second air vent on
the opposing wall, on the
second wall board below the
eaves height, 300mm in from
the corner
Use a 25mm drill bit and drill
4 holes evenly as shown (roof
removed for illustration).
air vents
32
Floor Plan
Cabin walls.
Concrete foundations (optional) - this should be made to the samedimensions as the stated floor plan.
Compressed gravel (optional) - this should be made 300mm largerthan the stated floor plan in each direction.
Base sizes shown are a minimum requirement.
Floor Beam Layout
1.7
62m
2.0
00m
(Door)
0.810m x 1.610m
(Window)
0.685m x 0.585m
2.362m
2.600m
1.230m 1.200m
2.430m
0.522m 0.522m 0.522m 0.522m
1.6
94m
1.8
30m
33
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34
A B C part ref. quantity checklist
19 11420002600
MK
2614
cc
19 118 2200 U 2 c
19 114 400 B 18 c
19 1114 1334 C 8 c
19 57 2000 L 2 c
19 114 2600 A 1 c
19 114 274 E 5 c
16 117 1480 V 4 c
45 90 2200 Y 3 c
15 90 1430 Z 50 c
22 45 818 SL 1 c
18 55 1500 V1 4 c
list of parts
155256 Parts List
19 2600 G 2 c
A
B
C
A
B
A
B
C
A
B
C
CAB
C
AB
AB
AB
AB
AB
AB
AB
AB
AB
C
A
BBC
C
C
C
C
C
C
A
B
35
A B C part ref. quantity checklist
18 55 2400 W 2 c
16 90 180 X 2 c
D2 1 c
RO 2 c
4 40 SC3 25 c
2 45 DR 400 c
3 15 AS 100 c
3 70 70 A 6 c
3 20 70 B 9 c
28 68 2400 C 8 c
19 45 2245 D 4 c
18 90 2370 E 28 c
2 45 F 600 c
Door Handle
Air Vent
155256 parts list continued…
list of parts
A
A
A
A
B
A
B
A
B
A
B
C
36
A B C part ref. quantity checklist
155256 parts list continued…
list of parts
810 1610 DA319 1 c
685 585 WA119 1 c
1000 10000 Z1 1 c
37
Timber treatmentsYour log cabin will last longer if you treat the timbers (interiorand exterior) with preservative. Do not treat your timbers untilyou have completely finished building.
NB: DO NOT TREAT THE INTERNAL WALLS OF YOUR CABINIF YOU INTEND TO USE IT AS A SAUNA.
Wood - a natural materialWood is a natural material. No two boards in your cabin arealike. They will expand and contract to reflect changes in themoisture content of their surroundings. They come with naturalmarkings and imperfections.
Expansion and contraction may cause slight deformation insome of your cabin components. If joints are tight, they can beeased by paring with a knife or a chisel.
After construction, the entire cabin will tend to settle. Theamount of settling varies from building to building. After a fewweeks, check joints and screws. Some screws may need to betightened or relocated. Doors and windows may needadjustment.
After a while cracks may appear in some timbers. No need toworry: cracks are natural. They will not reduce the strength orthe warmth of your cabin.
Health and safetyTake care when building your log cabin. Wear safety goggleswhen drilling, cutting, or sawing; wear gloves whenhammering. Always cut away from you when you use a knife ora chisel; do not wrap your fingers behind any piece of woodthat you are cutting or sawing.
Pay particular attention when using ladders or working on theroof. Make sure your ladder is vertical, that it stands on firmground, and that it’s leaning on a solid object. Do not leaveheavy or sharp objects in places where they could fall down.
Wood creates splinters. You can minimise the chance ofcatching a splinter in your hands by wearing safety gloves.
Take care when applying preservative. Follow themanufacturer’s instructions if preservative gets in eyes or onskin or clothes.
Keep children away from the area where you are working, andaway from ladders, tools and cabin components. Do not letthem climb on the cabin.
If you want to discuss any aspect of the construction or care ofyour cabin, or if you want to report a damaged or missingcomponent, please contact your technical team - their details
are stated on your confirmation letter, quoting the referencenumber displayed on the transit packaging.
Customer service
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Glossary
architravedoor and window surround
cabin reference numberunique reference number to identify your cabin in case of a query – found on the packing label
cross-diagonalmeasured length from corner to corner – whencross-diagonals are equal, your cabin is square
DPMdamp proof membrane
eaveslowest part of the roof slope
fascia boardboard attached to eaves or gable to cover exposed edges ofroof boards
fascia cover boardboard attached to eaves or gable to cover joint between roof boards and fascia boards
floor beamdarker impregnated beam that supports the floors
foundation beamdarker impregnated beam that supports the external walls
frame cappingcapping with an L-shaped cross-section for the topmost architraves of doors and windows
full-height boardstandard height wall board for cabin construction
gabletriangular section of wall between the two roof slopes
half-height boardhalf the height of a full-height board – the first board to be laid in cabin construction
ridge beammain and uppermost supporting beam for roof
roof beamintermediate supporting beam for roof
roof boardboard that covers roof
storm battencorner-fixed vertical timber for securing cabin walls
tongue and grooveinterlocking joint between wall boards and floorboards
wall boardinterlocking wooden board used in main cabin construction
Some of the terms used in these instructions may be unfamiliar. This is what they mean.
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METSÄ WOODEmail: [email protected]
For technical help, please refer to the telephone numberin your confirmatiion letter.
Metsä Wood is a wood products company deliveringservice-oriented solutions developed in collaborationwith its customers. Its premium solutions are based onecological, high quality Nordic wood as a raw material.
Wood is the only building material that is truly renewable,if well managed. Forest certification schemes giveassurance that the timber is legal and from sustainablesources. Metsä Wood sources certified timber overuncertified and is an approved Chain of Custody supplier.
The photographs in this brochure are for illustrationpurposes only.
Metsä Wood reserves the right to change the rangewithout notice.
Every effort has been made to ensure that colours areaccurate within the limitations of natural lightingconditions and the four colour printing process.
