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SEWINGTHEABSOLUTEBEGINNER’SGUIDE
bytheeditorsofCreativePublishinginternational
ContentsINTRODUCTION
SEWINGBASICSTHESEWINGMACHINEMACHINEACCESSORIESSEWINGSUPPLIESSPECIALPRODUCTSFABRICINFORMATIONSELECTINGAPATTERNALLABOUTPATTERNSINSIDETHEPATTERNPATTERNLAYOUTCUTTINGANDMARKINGGETTINGREADYTOSEWSEWINGASEAMHOWTOBALANCETENSIONHANDSTITCHESHEMSCUTTINGDECORATORFABRICS
PROJECTSRECTANGULARTABLECLOTHKNIFE-EDGEPILLOWSZIPPERCLOSURESBABYBLANKETELASTIC-WAISTSKIRTSELASTIC-WAISTPANTST-SHIRTSAPRONWITHPOCKETSUNLINEDJACKETS
GLOSSARYINDEX
IntroductionWELCOMETOTHECREATIVE,REWARDINGWORLDOFSEWING.FIRSTTIMESEWINGISDESIGNEDTOMAKEYOURLEARNINGEXPERIENCEASPAINLESSASPOSSIBLEANDTOINSTILLCONFIDENCEASYOUTAKEONNEWPROJECTSANDLEARNNEWTECHNIQUES.EASY-TO-FOLLOWINSTRUCTIONSWITHCOLORFULPHOTOGRAPHSHELPYOUBUILDYOURSEWINGSKILLSWHILEMAKINGCLOTHES,GIFTS,ANDHOMEDECORATINGITEMSYOU’LLBEPLEASEDTOUSE,SHARE,ANDWEAR.
Sewingenthusiastsenjoythistime-honoredartformanyreasons.Sewingyourownclothesstillgivesyoutheadvantageofpersonalizedfitandindividualexpression.Homedecoratingitemsarepopularprojectsforbeginnersandadvancedsewersalike,partlybecauseofthecostsavingsoverpurchaseditems.Bysewingtheseitemsforthehome,youalsogettoenjoythecreativefunofchoosingstyles,colors,andfabricsthatfityourpersonalityandtaste.Butperhapsthegreatestreasonthatsewingissoenjoyableisthemeresatisfactionfeltincreatingsomethingfromscratchwithyourowntwohands.Whetheryouaremakingsomethingforyourself,yourhome,ortogivetosomeoneelse,theultimaterewardistheintangibledelightandpersonalfulfillmentgainedintheprocess.
Theprojectsinthisbookaredesignedtoguideyoufromyourfirstnervousstitchatyoursewingmachinetocomfortablefamiliarity.Eachprojectwillteachyounewskills.Throughoutthebookyouwillfindtipstomakeyoursewingeasierormoreefficientandexplanationstohelpyouunderstandthereasonsbehindthemethods.
Usethefirstsectionofthebooktoacquaintyourselfwithyoursewingmachineandthetechniquesandsuppliesthatencompasstheartofsewing.Yoursewingmachineowner’smanualisanecessity;refertoitfirstifyouhavequestionsorproblemsspecifictoyourmachine.Thefirststepinanysewingprojectistoreadthroughthedirectionsfrombeginningtoend.RefertotheTellMeMoresidebarsfordefinitionsorelaborationsonboldkeywordsorphrasesusedintheproject.Atthebeginningofeveryprojectyouwillfindalistofthenecessarymaterials.Readthroughtheinformationonfabricsbeforeyougoshopping,sothefabricstorewillseemalittlemoreuser-friendlywhenyougetthere.Aboveall,enjoytheprocess.Giveyourselftheopportunitytobecreative,
andexpressyourselfthroughthethingsyousew.
SEWINGBASICS
Thereisnobetterplacetostartthanattheverybeginning.Ifyouarestartingfromscratch,evenatriptothefabricstorecanbechallenging.Manufacturerscan’tincludeallthevitalinformationwiththeirpackaging,andtherearesomanytoolsandsewingnotionstochoosefrom.Togiveyouafirmfoundationforlearningtosew,thissectionteachesyoutheessentialsaboutyoursewingmachine,fabrics,patterns,andsewingsupplies.Ifyouhavenevertakenastitch,youwillappreciatethedetailedinformation,photos,andillustrations.Evenifyouhavealittlesewingexperience,youaresuretolearnsomethingsyoudidn’tknow.Sosettleback,takeyourtime,andjumpintothebasics.
thesewingmachine
Theprinciplepartscommontoallmodernsewingmachinesareshowninthediagramatright.Thepartsmaylookdifferentonyourmodel,andtheymayhaveslightlydifferentlocations,soopenyourowner’smanual,also.Ifyoudonothaveanowner’smanualforyourmachine,contactasewingmachinedealerwhosellsyourbrandorsearchtheInternet.Becomefamiliarwiththenamesofthepartsandtheirfunctions.Asyouspendmoretimesewing,theseitemswillbecomesecondnaturetoyou.
Ifyouarebuyinganewmachine,considerhowmuchandwhatkindofsewingyouexpecttodo.Talktofriendswhosewandtosalespersonnel.Askfordemonstrations,andsewonthemachineyourself.Experimentwiththevariousfeatureswhilesewingonavarietyoffabrics,includingknits,wovens,lightweights,anddenim.Thinkabouttheoptionalfeaturesofthemachineandwhichonesyouwantonyours.Manydealersofferfreesewinglessonswiththepurchaseofamachine.Takeadvantage!Theselessonswillbegearedtoyourparticularbrandandmodelofsewingmachine.
Thesepartsarecommontoallsewingmachines,buttheirpositionanddesigndiffers.Useyourmanualtohelpyoulearnwherethesepartsare,whatthesepartsdo,andhowtousethem:
Bobbin
BobbincaseBobbinwinderspindleBobbinwindertensionButtonholeknobDetachablemachinebedFeeddogsFeeddogcontrolGeneral-purposepresserfootHandwheelLightswitchNeedleclampPresserfootlifterPresserfootpressurecontrolSeamallowanceguideSpoolpinsStitchpatternselectorStitchlengthselectorStitchwidthselectorTake-upleverToptensioncontrolToptensiondiscsThreadcutterThreadguidesThroatplateVariablespeedswitch
machineaccessories
SEWINGMACHINENEEDLES
Sewingmachineneedlescomeinavarietyofstylesandsizes.Thecorrectneedlechoicedependsmostlyonthefabricyouhaveselected.Sharppoints(A),usedforwovenfabrics,aredesignedtopiercethefabric.Ballpoints(B)aredesignedtoslipbetweentheloopsofknitfabricratherthanpierceandpossiblydamagethefabric.Universalpointsaredesignedtoworkonbothwovenandknittedfabrics.Thesizeoftheneedleisdesignatedbyanumber,generallygiveninbothAmerican(9,11,12,14,16,18)andEuropean(60,70,80,90,100,110)numberingsystems.Usesize11/70or12/80needlesformediumweightfabrics.Alargernumbermeanstheneedleisthickerandthatitisappropriateforusewithheavierfabricsandheavierthreads.
TIPThoughneedlestyleandsizeareusuallyindicatedinsomewayontheneedle,itisoftendifficulttoseewithoutamagnifyingglass,andyoumostlikelywillnotrememberwhatneedleisinthemachine.Asaneasyreminder,whenyoufinishasewingsession,leaveafabricswatchfromyourcurrentprojectunderthepresserfoot.
BOBBINSStitchesaremadebylockingtheupperthreadwithalowerthread,carriedonabobbin.Alwaysusebobbinsinthecorrectstyleandsizeforyourmachine.Bobbinthreadtensioniscontrolledbyaspringonthebobbincase,whichmaybebuiltin(C)orremovable(D).
PRESSERFEETEverysewingmachinecomeswithaccessoriesforspecializedtasks.Morecanbepurchasedasyoudevelopyourinterestandskills.Yourmachinemanualordealercanshowyouwhataccessoriesareavailableandwillexplainhowtousethemtogetthebestresults.
Ageneral-purposefoot(A),probablytheoneyouwillusemostoften,hasawideopeningtoaccommodatetheside-to-sidemovementoftheneedleinalltypesofutility(nondecorative)stitches.Itisalsosuitableformoststraightstitching.Azipperfoot(B)isusedtoinsertzippersortostitchanyseamthathasmorebulkononesidethantheother.Forsomesewingmachines,thezipperfootisstationary,requiringyoutomovetheneedlepositiontotherightorleft.Forotherstyles,thepositionofthezipperfootitselfisadjustable.Aspecial-purposeorembroideryfoot(C)hasagroovedbottomthatallowsthefoottoridesmoothlyoverdecorativestitchesorraisedcords.Somestylesareclearplastic,allowingyoutoseeyourworkmoreclearly.Awalkingfoot(D)feedstopandbottomlayersatequalrates,allowingyoutomoreeasilymatchpatternsorstitchbulkylayersasforquilting.
sewingsupplies
Sewinginvolvesmanysteps:measuring,layingoutthepattern,cutting,marking,stitching,andpressing.Foreachofthesestepstherearespecialtoolsandsuppliestomakeyoursewingeasierandhelpyoucompleteyourprojectssuccessfully.Don’tfeelyouneedtobuyalltheitemsbeforeyoustart.Forinstance,apairofsharpshearsandaseamripperwillseeyouthroughmostofthecuttingtasksfortheprojectsinthisbook.Youwillundoubtedlyacquireadditionaltoolsasyourskillsandinterestsgrow.
HAND-SEWINGSUPPLIESNeedlesandpinsareavailableinavarietyofsizesandstyles.Lookforrustproofneedlesandpinsmadeofbrass,nickel-platedsteel,orstainlesssteel.Picturedfromtoptobottom:
Sharpsareall-purpose,medium-lengthneedlesdesignedforgeneralsewing.Crewelsaresharp,large-eyedmedium-lengthneedles,designedfor
embroidery.Betweensareveryshortandround-eyed.Theyareusefulforhandquilting
andmakingfinestitches.Milliner’sneedlesarelongwithroundeyesandareusedformakinglong
bastingorgatheringstitches.Pinswithcoloredballheadsareeasiertoseeandarelesslikelytogetlost
thanthosewithflatheads.straightpinsareusedforgeneralsewing.Theyshouldbeslimandare
usually11/16"(2.7cm)long.Quiltingpinsare13/4"(4.5cm)long.Theirextralengthmakesthemidealfor
useonbulkyfabricsorfabricswithextraloft.
AAthimbleprotectsyourfingerwhilehandsewing.Availableinavarietyofstylesandsizes,itiswornonwhicheverfingeryouusetopushtheneedlethroughthefabric.Mostpeopleprefereitherthemiddleorringfinger.Usingathimbleisanacquiredhabit.Somepeoplecan’tgetalongwithoutone,whileothersfeeltheyareanuisance.
BPincushionsprovideasafeandhandyplacetostorepins.Onestyleiswornonthewristforconvenience.Anotherstyle,amagnetictray,attractsandholdssteelpins.Becarefulnottoplaceanymagnetictoolsnearacomputerizedmachine,becausethemagnetmayinterferewiththemachine’smemory.
CNeedlethreaderseasethreadingofhandandmachineneedles.Thisisespeciallyusefulifyouhavedifficultyseeingsomethingthatsmall.
DThreadcanbedrawnthroughbeeswaxtostrengthenitandpreventitfrom
tanglingwhilehandsewing.
MEASURING&MARKINGTOOLS
ATransparentrulerallowsyoutoseewhatyouaremeasuringandmarking.Italsoisusedtocheckfabricgrainline.
BYardstick(meterstick)shouldbemadeofsmoothhardwoodormetal.
CTapemeasurehastheflexibilityhelpfulformeasuringitemswithshapeanddimension.Selectonemadeofamaterialthatwillnotstretch.
DSeamgaugeisa6"(15cm)metalorplasticrulerwithaslidingmarker.Ithelpstakequick,accuratemeasurementsandcanbeusedtomeasureseamallowancewidths.
ETransparentT-squareisusedtolocategrainlineandtomeasure90-degreeangles.
FMarkingchalkisavailableinseveralforms:aspowderinarollingwheeldispenser,asapencil,orasaflatslice.Chalklinesareeasilyremovablefrommostfabrics.
GFabricmarkingpensareavailableinbothair-erasableandwater-erasableforms.Air-erasablemarksdisappearwithin48hours;water-erasablemarkswashoffwithasprinklingofwater.
HNarrowmaskingtapeisanalternativemethodformarkingfabricswhenothermethodsarelesssuitable.
CUTTINGTOOLSBuyqualitycuttingtoolsandusethemonlyforyoursewing!Cuttingpaperorotherhouseholdmaterialswilldullyourcuttingtoolsquickly.Dulltoolsarenotonlytiresometoworkwith,theycanalsodamagefabric.Scissorshavebothhandlesthesamesize;shearshaveonehandlelargerthantheother.Haveyourcuttingtoolssharpenedperiodicallybyaqualifiedprofessional.
IBent-handleddressmaker’sshearsarebestforcuttingoutprojectpiecesbecausetheangleofthelowerbladeletsfabriclieflatonthecuttingsurface.Bladelengthsof7"or8"(18or20.5cm)aremostpopular,butlengthsofupto12"(30.5cm)areavailable.Selectabladelengthappropriateforthesizeofyourhand;shorterlengthsforsmallerhands.Left-handedmodelsarealsoavailable.
JSewingscissorswithpointedtipsarehandyforclippingthreadsandtrimmingandclippingseamallowances.A6"(15cm)bladeissuitableformosttasks.
KSeamripperquicklyremovesstitchesandopensbuttonholes.Useitcarefullytoavoidcuttingthefabric.
LRotarycutterworkslikeapizzacutterandcanbeusedbyleft-handedorrighthandedsewers.Alockingmechanismretractsthebladeforsafety.Usetherotarycutterwithaspecialplasticmat,availableindifferentsizes,withorwithoutgridlines.Theself-healingmatprotectsboththeworksurfaceandtheblade.
MPinkingshearsandpinkingrotarycuttersareusedtofinishseamallowances.Theycutfabricinazigzagorscallopedpatterninsteadofastraightline.
PRESSINGTOOLSPressingateachstageofconstructionisthesecrettoaperfectlyfinishedgarment.Thegeneralruleistopresseachstitchedseambeforecrossingitwithanother.
ASteam/sprayironshouldhaveawidetemperaturerangetoaccommodateallfabrics.Buyadependable,name-brandiron.Anironthatsteamsandspraysatanysetting,notjustthehigherheatsettings,ishelpfulforfabricswithsyntheticfibers.
BPressclothhelpspreventironshineandisalwaysusedwhenapplyingfusibles.Thetransparentclothallowsyoutoseeifthefabricissmoothandthelayersareproperlyaligned.
CTeflon-coatedsoleplateguard,availabletofitmostirons,eliminatestheneedforapresscloth.
DSeamrollisafirmlypackedcylindricalcushionforpressingseams.Thebulkofthefabricfallstothesidesawayfromtheiron,preventingtheseamfrommakinganimprintontherightsideofthefabric.
EPressinghamisafirmlypackedcushionforpressingcurvedareasofa
garment.
FSleeveboardlooksliketwosmallironingboardsattachedoneontopoftheother.Itisusefulforpressingsleevesonelayeratatimetoavoidunwantedcreases.
specialproducts
Manyspecialproductsandgadgetsaredesignedtoassistyouinvariousstepsofthesewingprocess.Beforeusinganewproduct,readthemanufacturer’sinstructionscarefully.Learnwhatspecialhandlingorcareisrequired,andforwhatfabricsorsewingtechniquesitisespeciallysuited.Herearesomespecializedproductsthatyoumayfindhelpfulinsewingyourclothes,accessories,orhomedécoritems.
ACuttingboardsprotecttablefinishesfromscratches.Availableincardboard,plastic,orpaddedstyles,theseboardsalsoholdfabricmoresecurelywhilecutting.Squareofffabricusingthemarkedlines,andusethe1"(2.5cm)squaresasaninstantmeasure.
BElasticscanbepurchasedinavarietyofwidthsandstyles,eitherinprecutlengthsorbytheyard(meter).Softerelastics(a)aresuitableforpajamasorboxershorts;nonrollelastic(b)staysflatinthecasing;somewideelastichaschannelsfortopstitching(c).
CInterfacingplaysasupportingroleinalmosteverygarment.Itisaninnerlayeroffabric,usedtostabilizethefabricinareaslikenecklinesandwaistbands,orgivesupportbehindbuttonsandbuttonholes.Interfacingsmaybewoven,non-woven,orknit;theeasiestformstouseareheatfusibleandtheseshouldcomewithinstructions.
DAbodkinisusedtothreadelasticorcordingthroughacasing.Oneendholdstheelastictightlywhileyoufeedthetoolthroughthenarrowcasing,pullingtheelasticorcordingbehindit.
EPointturnerishelpfulforperfectingcorners,suchasatthetopofapocketorattheendsofawaistband,orinsideapillowcover.Slipthetoolinsidetheitem,andgentlypokethefabricoutintoapoint.
FLiquidfraypreventerisacolorlessplasticliquidthatpreventsfrayingbystiffeningthefabricslightly.Itishelpfulwhenyouhaveclippedtoofarintoaseamallowanceorwanttoreinforceabuttonhole.Itmaydiscolorsomefabrics,sotestbeforeusing,andapplycarefully.Theliquidmayberemovedwithrubbingalcohol.Itdriestoapermanentfinishthatwillwithstandlaunderinganddrycleaning.
GGluestickisaconvenientsubstituteforpinningorbastingwhenyouneedtoholdaniteminplacetemporarilybeforestitching.Thetemporaryadhesiveinaretractabletubecanbeappliedinsmalldots.Itwon’tdiscolorthefabricandwashesoutcompletely,ifnecessary.Itwillnotharmyourmachineorgumupyourneedleasyoustitchthroughit.
HButtonholecutterisahandytoolformakingprecisioncutsdownthecenterofbuttonholes.Itcomeswithawoodenblocktoplaceunderthefabrictoprotectyourworksurfaceandacceptthesharpthinbladeofthecutter.Whilebuttonholescanbecutopenwithsmallscissorsoraseamripper,abuttonholecutterismoreaccurateandlesslikelytocutthestitches.
IBastingtapeisdouble-facedadhesivetapeusedinsteadofpinningorbasting.Itisespeciallyhelpfulformatchingprints,applyingzippers,andpositioningtrims.Somemanufacturersadvisethatyouavoidstitchingthroughthetapebecausetheadhesivemaycollectonyourneedle.
JSingle-foldbiastapeisusefulforhemmingcurvededges,suchasaroundtablecloth.Themanufacturerhasalreadycutthebiasstrips,sewnthemtogether,andpressedinprecisefoldstomakeyoursewingeasier.Thetapeisavailableinpackagedlengthsinawiderangesofcolors.
KPaper-backedfusiblewebissoldonrolls,invariousnarrowwidths.Itisalsoavailableasawidesheetrolledonaboltforpurchasebytheyard(meter).Itisatime-savingproductusedforadheringtwopiecesoffabrictogether.Forinstance,youmayusenarrowstripsofittosecurethesidehemsofaRomanshadeinsteadofstitchingthem.Aprotectivepaperbackingisremovedfromonesideaftertheothersidehasbeenfusedtothefabric.
LBlanketbindingresemblesawidesatinribbonthathasbeenpressedinhalfforencasingtherawedgearoundablanket.Packagedinaconvenientlengthforsewingbabyblankets,thebindingisavailableinassortedsoftcolorsandwhite.Becauseofitsstabilityandpermanentcrease,itiseasytoworkwith,yetfeelssilkysmoothagainstababy’sskin.
fabricinformation
Selectingtherightfabricsforyourprojectsmayseemlikeanoverwhelmingtask,butthereareafewsimpleguidelinestohelpnarrowthefield.Onegoodwaytolearnaboutfabricsistobrowsethroughafabricstore,handlingthefabricsandreadingthefibercontentinformationandcareinstructionsprintedontheendsofthebolts.Youmayalreadyknowwhetheryouwantasolidcolor,aprintedpattern,orperhapsamulticoloredfabric.Doyouneedafabricthatcanbelaunderedfrequently?Doyouwantsmoothortextured,stiffordrapable,lightweightorheavy?Somebasicfabricknowledgeandathought-outplanwillhelpyoumakewisechoicesandavoidcostlyerrors.
FIBERCONTENTNaturalfabricsaremadefromplantoranimalfibers,spunintoyarns:cotton,wool,silk,andlinenaremostcommon.Naturalsareoftenconsideredtheeasiestfabricstosew.Syntheticfabrics,madefromchemicallyproducedfibers,includenylon,acrylic,acetate,andpolyester.Rayonisaman-madefibermadefromaplantsource.Eachfiberhasuniquecharacteristics,desirablefordifferentreasons.Manyfabricsareablendofnaturalandsyntheticfibers,offeringyouthebestqualitiesofeach,suchasthebreathablecomfortofcottonblendedwiththewrinkleresistanceofpolyester.
WOVENFABRICSWovenfabricshavestraightlengthwiseandcrosswiseyarns.Thepatterninwhichtheyarnsarewovengivesthefabricitscharacteristicsurfacetextureandappearance.Theouteredgesofwovenfabricsarecalledselvages.Asageneralrule,theyshouldbetrimmedawaybecausetheyareoftenheavierthantherestofthefabric,andtheymayshrinkwhenlaunderedorpressed.Grainlinesarethedirectionsinwhichthefabricyarnsrun.Strong,stablelengthwiseyarns,runningparalleltotheselvages,formthelengthwisegrain.Thecrosswisegrainisperpendiculartothelengthwisegrainandhasasmallamountofgive.Anydiagonaldirection,calledthebias,hasafairamountofstretch.
KNITFABRICSKnitfabricsconsistofrowsofinterlockingloopsofyarn,asinahand-knitsweater,butusuallyonafinerscale.Knitfabricsaremoreflexiblethanotherfabrics,andtheyallstretch.Thesefeaturesmeanthatgarmentsmadeofknitsrequirelessfittingandoffermorefreedomofmovement.Whensewingwithknits,selectpatternsthatarespecificallydesignedforknitfabrics.
knitfabricismadefrominterlockingloopedstitches.Thelengthwiserowsofstitchesarecalledribs;thecrosswiserowsarecalledcourses.Theseribsandcoursescorrespondtothelengthwiseandcrosswisegrainsofwovenfabrics.
Patternsdesignedforknitfabricshaveastretchgauge.Foldoverthefabricalongacrosswisecourseseveralinches(centimeters)fromacutend,andtestits
degreeofstretchagainstthegauge.Ifthefabricstretchesthenecessaryamountwithoutdistortion,itissuitableforthepattern.
FABRICSHOPPINGFabricsinastorearedividedintofashionfabricsanddecoratorfabrics.Decoratorfabricsaregenerallymoredurablethanfashionfabrics;mosthavestain-resistantfinishes.Theyaredesignedforpillows,slipcovers,windowtreatments,andotherhomedecoratingprojects.Theyaremanufacturedinwidths(crosswisegrain)of48"or54"(122or137cm),thoughoccasionallyyoumayfindsomewider.Topreventcreases,decoratorfabricsarerolledontubes.
Fashionfabricsareusuallyfoldeddoubleandrolledoncardboardbolts.Theyvaryinwidth;themostcommonare36",45",and60"(91.5,115,and152.5cm).Thoughfashionfabricsareintendedforapparel,manyofthemarealsosuitableforhomedecorating.Moststoresarrangetheirfashionfabricsaccordingtothefibercontentorfabricstyle.Forexample,allthewoolsandwoolblends,suitable
forskirts,slacks,andjackets,maybefoundtogetherinoneareaofthestore;allthebridalandspecial-occasionfabricslocatedinanotherarea;quiltingfabrics(lightweightcottons)inanother.Thisisnotahard-and-fastrule,however,soyouwillwanttospendtimegettingacquaintedwiththefabricstoresyoushop.
FABRICPREPARATIONPreshrinkwashablefabricbeforecuttingouttheproject,bywashinganddryingitinthesamewayyouwillcareforthefinisheditem.Becausemostdecoratorfabricsarenotwashableandrequiredrycleaningwhennecessary,preshrinkthembypressingwithsteam,movingtheironevenlyalongthegrainlines.Allowthefabrictodrybeforemovingit.
selectingapattern
Majorpatterncompaniesfollowauniformsizingbasedonstandardbodymeasurements.Thisisnotexactlythesameasready-to-wearsizing.
DETERMININGSIZEToselecttherightpatternsize,firsttakeyourstandardbodymeasurements.Wearyourusualundergarmentsanduseatapemeasurethatdoesn’tstretch.Itmaybeeasiertohaveanotherpersonmeasureyou.Recordyourmeasurementsandcomparethemwiththesizechartonthebackofthepatternorinthepatternbook.
TAKINGSTANDARDBODYMEASUREMENTS
1Waistline.Tieastringorpieceofelasticaroundyourmiddle,andallowittorolltoyournaturalwaistline.Measureatthisexactlocationwithatapemeasure.Leavethestringinplaceasareferenceformeasuringyourhipsandbackwaist
length.
2Hips.Measurearoundthefullestpartofyourhips.Thisisusually7"to9"(18to23cm)belowthewaistline,dependingonyourheight.
3Bust.Placethetapemeasureunderyourarms,acrossthewidestpartofthebackandthefullestpartofthebustline.
4Backwaistlength.Measurefromthemiddleofthemostprominentboneatthebaseoftheneckdowntothewaistlinestring.
PATTERNSELECTIONSelectingapatternforagarmentallowsformorecreativitythanshoppingfromaready-to-wearcatalog.Patterncatalogsdon’tlimityoutocertainfabric,colors,skirtlengths,ortypesoftrimsshownonthepages.Youarefreetochooseacombinationoffeaturesthatbestreflectyourstyleandaremostflatteringtoyou.
Majorpatterncompaniespublishnewcatalogswitheachseason,whichmeansthatdesignertrendsseeninclothingstoresarereflectedinthenewestpatterncatalogsalongwithmoreclassicstyles.You’llfindsimplepatternsforsewerswhopreferthequickandeasystyles,andmoredetailedpatternsforexperiencedsewers.Thenumberofpatternpieceslistedonthebackofthepatternwillprovideacluetothecomplexityofthepattern.Thefewerpieces,theeasiertheproject.Also,thepatternmayindicatewhetheritisintendedforknitsonly.
Patterncatalogsareusuallydividedintocategoriesbygarmenttypesand
markedbyindextabs.Thenewestfashionsoftenappearinthefirstfewpagesofeachcategory.Patternillustrationsareaccompaniedbyinformationonrecommendedfabricsandyardagerequirements.Anindexatthebackofthecataloglistspatternsinnumericalorderalongwiththeirpagenumbers.Thebackofthecatalogalsoincludesacompletesizechartforeveryfiguretype.
allaboutpatterns
Thepatternenvelopeisasellingtoolandaneducationaldevice.Thefrontgenerallyhasaphotographofthefinishedgarmentandseveraldrawingsofthevariationsthatcanbesewnusingthepattern.Onthepatternback,you’llfinddetailedinformationtohelpyouselectfabricandallthenotionsnecessarytocompleteyourproject.
THEENVELOPEFRONT
THEENVELOPEBACKFabricamountsrequiredforeachviewinalltheavailablesizesarelistedinachart.Locatethestyleviewandthefabricwidthattheleft;matchitwithyoursizeatthetop.Thenumberwherethetwocolumnsmeetistheamountoffabricyouneedtobuy.Interfacingandelasticrequirementsarealsolisted.Metricequivalentsaregiveninaseparatechart.
insidethepattern
Evenifyouloveagoodpuzzle,yourfirstpeekatthepatterninnardscanbescary.Here’swhattoexpect.
PATTERNFEATURES
patternlayout
Allpatterncompaniesuseauniversalsystemofsymbolsontheirpatternpieces.Thesesymbolshelpyoulayoutthepattern,showyouwheretocut,helpyoumatchupseamlines,showyouwheretosew,andgiveplacementguidesforthingslikebuttons,buttonholes,andhems.Alongwiththesymbols,youwillalsofindessentialinstructionsprintedonthepatternpieces.
PatternLayoutcontinued
Preparealargeworkarea,suchasadiningroomtablecoveredwithacuttingboard(page19).Assembleallthepatternpiecesyouwillbeneeding,andpressoutanywrinkleswithawarm,dryiron.
Locateandcirclethecorrectcuttinglayoutdiagram(page31)onyourpatternguidesheet.Thesediagramsusuallyshowyoutheeasiest,mostefficientwaytolayoutyourpattern.Somefabricshaveanap,meaningtheyhavedefiniteupanddowndirections.Forthesefabrics,patternpiecesmustallbelaidoutinthesamedirection.
Foldthefabricinhalf,lengthwise.Smoothitoutontheworksurface,sothattheselvagesalignandthecrosswisegrainisperpendiculartothem.Arrange
thepatternpiecesasindicatedinthelayoutdiagram.Whitepatternshapesindicatethepieceistobeplacedwiththeprintedsideup.Shadedpiecesaretobeplacedwiththeprintedsidedown.Besuretofollowanyotherincidentaldirectionsthatpertaintoyourlayout.Afterallthepiecesareinplace,pinthemtothefabric.Donotbegincuttinguntilallthepatternpiecesareinplace.
PINNING
1First,positionthepatternpiecesthataretobecutonthefold.Placeeachonedirectlyonthefoldededgeofthefabric.Pinthecornersdiagonally.Thencontinuepinningneartheouteredge,placingthepinsparalleltothecuttingline.Spacethepinsabout3"(7.5cm)apart;closertogetheroncurves.
2Placethestraight-grainpatternpiecesonthefabric,withthegrainlinearrowparalleltotheselvagesonwovenfabricsorparalleltotheribsonknits.Measurefromeachendofthearrowtotheselvage,shiftingthepatternuntilthedistancesareequal.Pinbothendsofthegrainlinesothepatternwillnotshift.Thenpintheouteredges.
tellmemoreFOLDTHEFABRICINHALF,LENGTHWISE.Whenyourfabricisfoldedlikethis,youwillendupwithmirror-imagepiecesfortheleftandright
sidesofthegarment.Patterndirectionsusuallysuggestfoldingrightsidestogether.Sometimesthereareadvantagestofoldingwrongsidestogether,suchashavingabetterviewofthefabricdesignoreaseinmarking.Eitherwaywillwork.
cuttingandmarking
Don’tbeintimidated!Locatethecorrectcuttinglines,andcutwithconfidence.Transferthenecessarymarks,andyou’llbereadytosew!
CUTTINGAccuracyisimportant,sincemistakesmadeincuttingcannotalwaysbecorrected.Beforecutting,double-checktheplacementofthepatternpieces.
AUsingbent-handledshears,cutwithlong,firmstrokes,cuttingdirectlyonthecuttingline.Takeshorterstrokesaroundcurves.Ifyouareusingamultisizepattern,besurethatyoufollowthecorrectcuttinglineallthetime.
BNotchescanbecutoutward,especiallyifthefabricislooselywovenorifthepatterncallsfor1/4"(6mm)seamallowances.Cutmultiplenotchesasoneunit,notseparately.Or,youcancutdirectlythroughthenotches,andthenmarkthemwithshortsnipsintotheseamallowances.
CIfyouprefertousearotarycutterandmat,besuretokeepthematundertheareabeingcut.Usesteady,evenpressure,and,aboveall,keepfingersandsmallchildrenawayfromtherotarycutter.
MARKINGKeepthepatternpiecespinnedinplaceaftercutting.Transferpatternsymbolstotheappropriatesideofthefabric,usingoneofthefollowingmethods.
APinsareaquickwaytotransfermarks.Sincetheymayfallouteasily,usepinmarksonlywhenyouintendtosewimmediately.Or,pin-markfirst,removethepattern,andmarkagain,usingchalkorerasablefabricmarker.
BErasablefabricmarkersarefelt-tippensdesignedspecificallyforsewingneeds.Air-erasablemarksdisappearwithin48hours.Water-erasablemarksdisappearwithaspritzofwater.
CChalkisavailableinpencilformorasapowderinarollingwheeldispenser.
DSnipsarehandyformarkingthingslikedotsatshoulderseams.Makeshallowsnipsintotheseamallowancesatthedotlocations.
gettingreadytosew
Simpletasksofinsertingtheneedle,windingthebobbin,andthreadingthemachinehavetremendousinfluenceonthestitchqualityandperformanceofyourmachine.Usethisguideasageneralreference,butrefertoyourowner’smanualforinstructionsspecifictoyourmachine.
INSERTINGTHENEEDLELoosentheneedleclamp.Afterselectingtheappropriateneedleforyourproject(page12),insertitintothemachineashighasitwillgo.Thegroovedsideoftheneedlefacesforward,ifyourbobbingetsinsertedfromthefrontortop;itfacestotheleft,ifyourbobbingetsinsertedontheleft.Tightentheclampsecurely.
WINDINGTHEBOBBINIfthebobbincaseisbuiltin,thebobbiniswoundinplacewiththemachinefullythreadedasiftosew(page40).
Removablebobbinsarewoundonthetoporsideofthemachine,withthemachinethreadedforbobbinwinding,asdescribedinyourowner’smanual.
Bobbinthreadmustbedrawnthroughthebobbincasetensionspring.Forwind-in-placebobbins,thishappensautomaticallywhenyouwindthebobbin,butyoumustdoitmanuallywhenyouinsertabobbinthatalreadyhasthreadonit.
Afterinsertingthebobbinandthreadingthemachine(page40),youneedtodrawthebobbinthreadtothetop.Holdtheneedlethreadwhileturningthehandwheeltowardyouonefullturn.Astheneedlegoesdown,thetopthreadinterlockswiththebobbinthreadandbringsitupthroughtheneedlehole.Pullboththreadstogetherunderthepresserfootandofftothesideorback.
THREADINGTHEMACHINEBecauseeverysewingmachineisdifferent,thethreadingprocedureforyourmachinemaydifferslightlyfromtheoneshownhere.Onceagain,itisimportanttorefertoyourowner’smanual.Everyupperthreadguideaddsalittletensiontothethreadasitwindsitswaytotheneedle.Missingoneofthemcanmakeabigdifferenceinthequalityofyourstitches.
1Setthethreadspoolonthespindle.Foraverticalspindle,positionthespoolsothatitwillturnclockwiseasyousew.Ifthespindleishorizontal,thespoolisheldinplacewithanendcap.Ifyourspoolhasasmallcutinoneendformindingthethread,positionthespoolwiththatendtotheright.
TIPIfthespoolisnewandhaspaperlabelscoveringtheholes,pokethemin,completelyuncoveringtheholes,toallowthespooltoturnfreely.Unlessyourmachinehasaself-windingbobbin,youwillwantto
windthebobbin(page38)beforethreadingthemachine.
2Pullthreadtotheleftandthroughthefirstthreadguide.
3Drawthreadthroughthetensionguide.
4Drawthreadthroughthenextthreadguide.
5Insertthreadthroughtheholeorslotintake-uplever.
6Drawthethreadthroughtheremainingthreadguides.
7Threadtheneedle.Mostneedlesarethreadedfromfronttoback;some,fromsidetoside.
8Holdingtheneedlethread,turnthehandwheeltowardyouonefullrotation.Theneedlethreadwillengagethebobbinthread.Whenyoutugontheneedlethread,thebobbinthreadshouldcomeupthroughtheholeintheneedleplate.
TIPItisveryimportanttohavethepresserfootleverupwhenthreadingthemachinebecausethetensiondiscsarethenopen.Ifthepresserfootisdownandthediscsareclosed,thethreadwillnotslidebetweenthediscs,andyourstitcheswillnotformproperly.
sewingaseam
Littlefrustrations,suchasthreadjams,erraticstitchinglines,orhavingthethreadpulloutoftheneedleatthestartofaseam,canoftenbepreventedorcorrectedbyfollowingthesebasicguidelines.
HOWTOSEWASEAM
1Threadyourmachine(page40)andinsertthebobbin(page12).Holdingtheneedlethreadwithyourlefthand,turnthehandwheeltowardyouuntiltheneedlehasgonedownandcomebackuptoitshighestpoint.Youwillfeelatugontheneedlethread.Pullontheneedlethreadtobringthebobbinthreadupthroughtheholeinthethroatplate.Pullboththreadstogetherunderthepresserfootandofftooneside.
2Cutrectanglesoffabric.Placethepiecesrightsidestogether,aligningtheouteredges.Pinthepiecestogetheralongonelongedge,insertingthepinsaboutevery2"(5cm),perpendiculartotheedge.Placethefabricunderthepresserfootsothepinnedsideedgesaligntothe1/2"(1.3cm)seamallowanceguideandtheupperedgesaligntothebackofthepresserfoot.Lowerthepresserfoot,andsetyourstitchlengthat2.5mm,whichequals10stitchesperinch.
3Backstitchseveralstitchestotheupperedgeofthefabric.Holdthethreadtailsunderafingerforthefirstfewstitches.Thispreventstheneedlethreadfrombeingpulledoutoftheneedleandalsopreventsthethreadtailsfrombeingdrawndownintothebobbincase,wheretheycouldpotentiallycauseathreadjam.
4Stitchforwardoverthebackstitchedline,andcontinuesewingthe1/2"(1.3cm)seam.Gentlyguidethefabricwhileyousewbywalkingyourfingersaheadofandslightlytothesidesofthepresserfoot.Remember,youareonlyguiding;letthemachinepullthefabric.
5Stopstitchingandremovepinsasyoucometothem.Whenyoureachtheendofthefabric,stopstitching;backstitchseveralstitches,andstopagain.Turnthehandwheeltowardyouuntiltheneedleisinitshighestposition.
6Raisethepresserfoot.Pullthefabricsmoothlyawayfromthepresserfoot,eithertotheleftsideorstraightback.Ifyouhavetotugthethreads,turnyourhandwheelslightlytowardyouuntiltheypulleasily.Cutthethreads,leavingtails21/2"to3"(6.5to7.5cm)long.
tellmemoreINSERTINGTHEPINSPERPENDICULARTOTHEEDGE.Thismakesitmucheasiertoremovethemasyousew.Thepinheadsareneartherawedge
whereyoucaneasilygraspthemwithyourrighthand.Inthisposition,youaremuchlesslikelytostickyourselfwithapinasyousew.
REMOVEPINSASYOUCOMETOTHEM.Astemptingasitmaybe,don’tsewoverpins!Youmaybeluckyandsaveafewseconds,oryoucouldhitapinandbreakyourneedle,costingyoumuchmoretimeinthelongrun.
howtobalancetension
Yourmachineformsstitchesbyinterlockingthebobbinthreadwiththeneedlethread.Everytimetheneedlegoesdownintothefabric,asharphookcatchestheneedlethreadandwrapsthebobbinthreadaroundit.Imaginethislittletug-of-war.Iftheneedlethreadtensionis“stronger”thanthebobbinthreadtension,theneedlethreadpullsthebobbinthreadthroughtothetop.Ifthebobbinthreadtensionis“stronger,”itpullstheneedlethreadthroughtothebottom.Whenthetensionsareevenlybalanced,thestitchwilllockexactlyhalfwaybetweenthetopandbottomofthelayersbeingsewn,whichisrightwhereyouwantit.
Somemachineshave“self-adjustingtension,”meaningthemachineautomaticallyadjustsitstensionwitheveryfabricyousew.Formachinesthatdonothavethisfeature,youmayhavetoadjusttheneedlethreadtensionslightlyasyousewdifferentfabrics.
1Threadyourmachineandinsertthebobbin,usingtwoverydifferentcolorsofthread,neitherofwhichmatchesthefabric.Cutan8”(20.5cm)squareofasmooth,mediumweightfabric.Foldthefabricinhalfdiagonally,andplaceitunderthepresserfootsothefoldalignstoyour1/2"(1.3cm)seamguide.Lowerthepresserfootandsetyourstitchlengthattenstitchesperinchor2.5mmlong.
2Stitchalineacrossthefabric,stitching1/2"(1.3cm)fromthediagonalfold.Removethefabricfromthemachine.Inspectyourstitchinglinefrombothsides.Ifyourtensionisevenlybalanced,youwillseeonlyonecoloroneachside.Ifyouseeboththreadcolorsonthetopsideofyoursample,theneedletensionistighterthanthebobbintension.Ifyouseeboththreadcolorsonthebacksideofyoursample,thebobbintensionistighterthantheneedletension.
3Pullonyourstitchinglineuntilyouhearthreadsbreak.(Becauseyoustitchedonthebias,thefabricwillstretchslightly.)Ifthethreadbreaksononlyoneside,yourmachine’stensionistighteronthatside.
Toptensiontootight
Toptensiontooloose
Tensioneven
ADJUSTINGTHETENSIONBeforeadjustingthetensiononyourmachine,firstcheck:
thatyourmachineisproperlythreaded(page40)thatyourbobbinisproperlyinstalledthatyourneedleisnotdamagedandisinsertedcorrectly
Aftercheckingthesethreethings,youmayneedtoadjustthetensiononyourmachine.(Checkyourowner’smanual.)Tightenorloosentheneedlethreadtensionslightlytobringtheneedlethreadandbobbinthreadtensionsintobalance.Testthestitchesaftereachadjustment,untilyouachievebalancedtension.Ifslightadjustmentsoftheneedletensiondialdonotsolvetheproblem,thebobbintensionmayneedadjusting.However,mostmanufacturersdonotrecommendthatyouadjustbobbintensionyourself,sounlessyouhavereceivedinstructionsforadjustingthebobbintensiononyourmachine,takeyourmachineinforrepair.
SEAMFINISHES
AStitchedandpinkedfinish.Stitch1/4"(6mm)fromeachseamallowanceedge,usingastraightstitchsetat12stitchesperinch,whichequals2mm.Trimclosetothestitching,usingpinkingshears(page17).Thisfinishissuitableforfinelywovenfabricsthatdonotraveleasily.
BZigzagfinish.Setthezigzagstitchonornearmaximumwidthandalengthof10stitchesperinch,whichequals2.5mm.Stitchclosetotheedgeofeachseamallowancesothattherighthandstitchesgojustovertheedge.Ifthefabricpuckers,tryanarrowerzigzagwidth.
CMultistitch-zigzagfinish.Ifyourmachinehasthisstitch,checkyourowner’smanualfordirectionsonselectingthesettings.Stitchnear,butnotovertheedgeof,eachseamallowance.
DTurnandzigzagfinish.Setthezigzagstitchnearmaximumwidthatalengthof10stitchesperinch,whichequals2.5mm.Turnundertheseamallowanceedge1/8"to1/4"(3to6mm).Stitchclosetothefoldededgesothattherighthandstitchesgojustonoroverthefold.Usethisfinishonlooselywovenfabrics,especiallyongarments,suchasjackets,wheretheinsidemaybevisibleoccasionally.
TIPStraightstitchinglinesareeasiertoachieveifyouwatchtheedgeofthefabricalongtheseamguideandignoretheneedle.Sewsmoothlyatarelaxingpace,withminimalstartingandstopping,andwithoutburstsofspeed.Youhavebettercontrolofthespeedifyouoperateyourfootcontrolwithyourheelrestingonthefloor.
SPECIALSEAMSAsidefromthestandardstraight-stitchseam,yourmachineisprobablycapableofsewingseveralotherstitchesthatareappropriateforvariousfabricsand
situations.Wheneveryousewwithknits,forexample,youwantaseamthatwillstretchwiththefabric.Topreventravelingofwovenfabrics,seamallowanceedgesmustbefinished.Thereareseveralfinishingmethodstochoosefrom,dependingonthefabricandthecapabilitiesofyourmachine.Thesegeneralguidelineswillhelpyoudecidewhentousethesestitchesandfinishingmethods.Yourowner’smanualisthebestsourceofspecificinformationforyourmachine.
STRETCHSEAMS
Double-stitchedseam(A).Stitchontheseamline,usingastraightstitchsetatalengthof12stitchesperinch,whichequals2mmlong.Stretchthefabricslightlyasyousew,toallowthefinishedseamtostretchthatmuch.Stitchagain1/8"(3mm)intotheseamallowance.Trimtheseamallowanceclosetothesecondstitchingline.Thisseamisappropriateforfabricswithminimalstretchorforseamssewnintheverticaldirectiononmoderatestretchknits.
Narrowzigzagseam(B).Stitchontheseamline,usingaverynarrowzigzagstitchsetat12stitchesperinch,whichequals2mmlong.Ifthefabricisverystretchyinthedirectionyouaresewing,youmayalsostretchthefabricslightlyasyousew.Trimtheseamallowanceto1/4"(6mm),ifnecessary.Setthezigzagwider,andstitchtheseamallowanceedgestogether.Thisseamisappropriateforverystretchyknits.
Built-instretchstitch(c).Differingfrombrandtobrand,thesestitchesaredesignedtoincorporatestretch,sothatyoudonotneedtostretchthefabricasyousew.Somestitchstyles,likethebottomtwosamples,areapatternofzigzagandstraightstitchesthatstitchandfinishtheseaminonepass.Checkyourmanualforstitchsettings.
TIPThecutedgesofknitfabricsdonotravel,buttheyoftencurl.Tominimizethisproblem,theseamallowancesareusuallyfinishedtogetherandpressedtooneside.
handstitches
Whilemodernsewersrelyonsewingmachinesforspeedyconstruction,therearesituationswhenhandstitchingisnecessaryorpreferable.Youmayneedtoslipstitchanopeningclosedtofinishapillow,orperhapsyoulikethelookofahand-stitchedblindhemonaskirt.Ofcourseyou’llalsoneedtosewonbuttons.
THREADINGTHENEEDLEInsertthethreadendthroughtheneedle’seye,forsewingwithasinglestrand.Orfoldthethreadinhalf,andinsertthefoldthroughtheeye,forsewingwithadoublestrand.Pullthroughabout8"(20.5cm).Wraptheotherend(s)aroundyourindexfinger.Then,usingyourthumb,rollthethreadoffyourfinger,twistingitintoaknot.
TIPUseasinglestrandwhenslipstitchingorhemming.Useadoublestrandwhensewingonbuttons.Toavoidtangles,beginwiththreadnolongerthan18"(46cm)fromtheneedletotheknot.Runthethreadthroughbeeswax(page15),ifdesired.
SLIPSTITCHING
1Insertthethreadedneedlebetweentheseamallowanceandthegarment,justbehindtheopening.Bringittotheoutsideintheseamline.Ifyouarerighthanded,workfromrighttoleft;leftiesworkfromlefttoright.
2Inserttheneedleintothefoldjustbehindwherethethreadcameup,andrunitinsidethefoldforabout1/4"(6mm).Bringtheneedleout,anddrawthethreadsnug.Takeyournextstitchintheoppositefold,insertingtheneedledirectlyacrossfromthepreviousstitch.
3Continue,crossingfromonefoldtotheother,untilyouhavesewnpasttheopening.Securethethreadwithseveraltinystitchesintheseamline.Thentakealongstitch,andpullittight.Clipthethreadatthesurface,andletthetaildisappearinside.
SEWINGONASEW-THROUGHBUTTON
1Placethebuttononthemark,withtheholesliningupparalleltothebuttonhole.Bringtheneedlethroughthefabricfromtheundersideandupthroughoneholeinthebutton.Inserttheneedleintoanotherholeandthroughthefabriclayers.
2Slipatoothpick,match,orsewingmachineneedlebetweenthethreadandthebuttontoformashank.Takethreeorfourstitchesthrougheachpairofholes.Bringtheneedleandthreadtotherightsideunderthebutton.Removethetoothpick.
3Windthethreadtwoorthreetimesaroundthebuttonstitchestoformtheshank.Securethethreadontherightsideunderthebutton,bymakingaknotortakingseveralsmallstitches.Clipthethreadsclosetotheknot.
SEWINGONASHANKBUTTON
1Placethebuttononthemark,withtheshankholeparalleltothebuttonhole.Securethethreadontherightsideofthegarmentwithasmallstitchunderthebutton.
2Bringtheneedlethroughtheshankhole.Inserttheneedledownthroughthefabricandpullthethreadthrough.Takefourtosixstitchesinthismanner.
3Securethethreadinthefabricunderthebuttonbymakingaknotorbytakingseveralsmallstitches.Clipthethreadends.
hems
Thereareanumberofwaystohemtheloweredgesofskirts,pants,jackets,andshirts.Somehemsaresewnbymachine;othersbyhand.Themethodyouchoosewilldependonthefabric,thegarmentstyle,andyourownpreference.Formethodsthatdonotinvolveturningundertherawedge,finishtheedge(page46)inanappropriatemanner,beforehemming.
HANDHEMS
ABlindstitch.Foldbackthefinishededgeofthehem1/4"(6mm).Takeasmallstitchtoanchorthethreadinaseamallowance.Workwiththeneedlepointinginthedirectionyouaregoing.Takeaverysmallhorizontalstitchinthegarment,
catchingonlyoneortwothreads.Takethenextstitchinthehem,1/4"to1/2"(6mmto1.3cm)awayfromthefirststitch.Continuealternatingstitches;donotpulltootightly.
BBlindcatchstitch.Foldbackthefinishededgeofthehem1/4"(6mm).Takeasmallstitchtoanchorthethreadinaseamallowance.Workwiththeneedlepointinginthedirectionoppositefromthewayyouaregoing.Takeaverysmallhorizontalstitchinthegarment,catchingonlyoneortwothreads.Takethenextstitchinthehem,1/4"to1/2"(6mmto1.3cm)awayfromthefirststitch,crossingthestitches.Continuealternatingthestitchesinazigzagpattern.
CSlipstitch.Foldundertherawedge1/4"(6mm),andpress.Takeasmallstitchtoanchorthethreadinaseamallowance.Workwiththeneedlepointinginthedirectionyouaregoing.Followthedirectionsforslipstitchingonpage49,catchingonlyoneortwothreadswitheachstitchthatgoesintothegarment.
MACHINEHEMS
AMachineblindstitch.Followyourmanualforadjustingthestitchsettings,andusetheappropriatepresserfoot.Testthestitchonascrapofthegarmentfabricuntilyouarehappywiththeresults.(A)Placethehemallowancefacedownonthemachinebed,withthebulkofthegarmentfoldedback.Allowabout1/4"(6mm)ofthehemedgetoextendunderthepresserfoot,aligningthesoftfoldtorestagainsttheguideinthefoot.Stitchalongthehem,closetothefold,catchingonlyoneortwothreadsofthegarmentwitheachleft-handstitchoftheneedle.
BWhencomplete,openoutthehem,andpressitflat.
CDouble-foldhem.Thismethodresultsinoneortworowsofstraightstitchesshowingontherightside.Turnunderadouble-foldhem.Thenstitchalongthe
innerfoldandrepeatattheouterfold,ifdesired.Thismethodismostsuccessfulonstraightedgeswherethereisnoexcessfullnesstoeasein.
DDouble-needlehem.Stitchedfromtherightsideofthefabric,thishemissuitableforknitgarments,becauseitwillstretchslightly.Thefartheraparttheneedlesarespaced,themorestretchthehemwillhave.However,widelyspacedneedleswillusuallyproducearidgebetweenthestitchinglines.Usingtwothreadspoolsontop,threadbothneedles.Placetapeonthebedofthemachineasastitchingguide.
cuttingdecoratorfabrics
Cuttingintoanewpieceoffabricmayseemalittlescary,consideringtheinvestmentyouhavejustmade.Hereareafewguidelinesforaccuratecuttingthatshouldboostyourconfidence.
Afterpreshrinking,straightenthecutendsofthefabric,usingoneofthethreemethodsopposite.Thenmarktheothercuttinglines,usingthestraightenededgeasaguide.Beforecuttingfull-widthpiecesoffabricforlargehomedécorprojects,suchastablecloths,duvetcovers,orRomanshades,pin-marktheplacementofeachcutalongtheselvage.Markoutpiecesforsmallerprojects,likedecoratorpillowsornapkins,withchalk.Double-checkyourmeasurementsandinspectthefabricforflaws.Onceyouhavecutintothefabric,youcannotreturnit.Toensurethatlargedécoritemswillhangorlaystraight,thefabriclengthsmustbecuton-grain.Thismeansthatthecutsaremadealongtheexactcrosswisegrainofthefabric.Patterneddecoratorfabricsarecutfollowingthepatternrepeatratherthanthegrainlinesotheymustbeprintedon-grain.
AFortightlywovenfabricswithoutamatchablepattern,markstraightcutsonthecrosswisegrain,usingacarpenter’ssquare.Alignoneedgetoaselvageandmarkalongtheperpendicularside.
BForlooselywovenfabrics,suchaslinentableclothfabric,pulloutayarnalongthecrosswisegrain,fromselvagetoselvage.Cutalongthelineleftbythemissingyarn.
CFortightlywovenpatterneddecoratorfabric,markbothselvagesattheexactsamepointinthepatternrepeat.Usingalongstraightedge,drawalineconnectingthetwopoints.Ifyouwillbestitchingtwoormorefullwidthsoffabrictogether,makeallthecutsatthesamelocationintherepeat.Thisusuallymeansthatyoucutthepieceslongerthannecessary,stitchthemtogether,andthentrimthemtothenecessarylength.
tellmemorePRINTEDON-GRAIN.Thismeansthepatternrepeatcoincidesexactlywiththecrosswisegrainofthefabric.Totestfabricbeforeyoubuy,placeit
onaflatsurfaceandfoldthecutedgeback,aligningtheselvagesonthesides.Creasethefoldwithyourfingers,thenunfoldthefabricandchecktoseeifthecreaserunsintotheselvageatexactlythesamepointinthepatternonbothsides.
Slightdifferencesoflessthan2"(5cm)canusuallybecorrectedbystretchingthefabricdiagonally.Avoidbuyingfabricthatisprintedmorethat2"(5cm)off-grain,asyouwillnotbeabletocorrectit,andthefinishedprojectwillnothangstraight.
matchingdesigns
Stitchingseamsindecoratorfabricsthathaveprinteddesignsorwoven-inpatternsrequiresafewextrastepstomakesurethepatternwillflowuninterruptedfromonefabricwidthtothenext.
1Placetwofabricwidthsrightsidestogether,aligningtheselvages.Foldbacktheupperselvageuntilthepatternmatches.Adjustthetoplayerslightlyupordownsothatthepatternlinesupexactly.Pressthefoldline.
2Unfoldthepressedselvage,andpinthefabricwidthstogether,insertingthepinsinandparalleltothefoldline.
3Turnthefabricover,andcheckthematchfromtherightside.Makeany
necessaryadjustments.
4Repinthefabricsothepinsareperpendiculartothefoldline.Stitchtheseamfollowingthefoldline;removepinsasyoucometothem(p.43).
5Checkthematchfromtherightsideagain.Makeanynecessaryadjustments.Trimawaytheselvages,cuttingtheseamallowancesto1/2"(1.3cm).
6Setthepatternselectortozigzagandyourstitchwidthandlengthtomedium.Finishtherawedgestogetherbyzigzaggingdownthelengthoftheseam.Presstheseamallowancestooneside.
7Trimtheentirefabricpaneltothenecessarycutlengthasdeterminedintheprojectinstructions.(Rememberyourinitialcutlengthforthepatternedfabricincludedextralengthtoaccommodatethepatternrepeat.)
tellmemoreZIGZAG.Thesewingmachineneedlemovesfromsidetosidewitheachstitch.Youcanadjustthewidthandlengthofthezigzag.Experiment
withdifferentsettingsonascrapoffabric.
FINISHTHERAWEDGESTOGETHER.Thispreventsthefabricfromraveling,whichisespeciallyimportantforhomedécoritemsthatarenotlined.
PROJECTS
Theeightprojectsinthissectionincludeeasyhomedécoritemsandbasicwardrobepieces.Ineachproject,youwilllearnafewnewsewingskills.Ifyouworkyourwaythroughtheprojectsinorder,yourskillsetwillbefairlycompletebythetimeyoufinishyourfirstunlinedjacket.Asyourepeattechniquesyou’velearnedinpreviousprojects,yourconfidencewillgrow.
Fourofthegarmentprojectsrequireacommercialpattern,solookforapatternthatcloselyresemblesthelinesanddetaillevelofthegarmentshown.Certainlyyoushouldreadthepatterninstructions,butusethebookinstructionsandphotographstohelpyousewyourgarment.Youdonotneedacommercialpatterntosewthetablecloth,pillow,babyblanket,orapron.
RECTANGULARTABLECLOTH
Asimplerectangulartableclothaddseleganceoraccentsyourcolorschemeandiseasilychangedforspecialoccasions,thechangingseasons,oryourmood!Theneatlymiteredcornerslookveryprofessional,yettheyaresurprisinglyeasytosew.Thistechniquecanbeusedforseveralotherhomedecoratingitems,suchasasquaretabletoppertoplaceoverafloor-lengthroundtablecloth,dinnernapkins,placemats,oratablerunner.
HOWTOSEWARECTANGULARTABLECLOTH
1Determinethedesiredfinishedsizeforyourtablecloth;add4”(10cm)tobothlengthandwidthforthehem.Cutarectangleoffabricequaltothesemeasurements,followingthecuttingguidelinesonpages54and55.
TIPSelectfabricthatiswideenoughforyourtableclothtobesewninonepiece:48"(122cm)fabricforafinishedwidthupto44"(112cm),54"(137cm)fabricforafinishedwidthupto50"(127cm),or60"(152.5cm)fabricforafinishedwidthupto56"(142cm).
MATERIALS
•Fabric,amountdeterminedinstep1•Thread•Fabricgluestick
SKILLS
•Sewdouble-foldhems•Useagluesticktohelpmakeperfectmiteredcorners
2Pressunder2"(5cm)onallfouredgesofthecloth.Unfoldthepressededgesandpresseachcornerdiagonallyatthepointwherethecreasesintersect.Trimoffthecornerdiagonallyatthepointswhereitcrossesthefoldlines.Useadotoffabricgluesticktoholdthecornerinplace.
3Turneachcutedgein,aligningittothefirstfoldline,andpresstheouterfold.
4Refoldonthefirstfoldline,encasingtherawedgetoforma1"(2.5cm)double-foldhem.Pintheheminplace,insertingpinsperpendiculartothefolds(p.19).Useadditionaldotsofgluesticktosecurethemiteredfoldsinthecorners.
5Edgestitchalongtheinnerfoldline.Atthecorners,stopwiththeneedledowninthefabricandpivot.Overlapthestitches1/2"(1.3cm)wheretheymeet.Pressthetablecloth.
TIPSupportthebulkofthefabrictoyourleftwithacardtableorothersurface,sothefabricfeedseasilyasyoustitch.Thiswillhelpyoumaintainanicestraightstitchingline.
tellmemoreEDGESTITCH.Stitchascloseaspossibletotheinneredgeofthehem.
Alignthepresserfootsothattheneedlewillenterthefabricjustinsidetheinneredge.Notethepointonthepresserfootthatalignstotheedgeofthehemitself.Asyousew,watchthefabricasitpassesunderthatpointonthefootratherthanwatchingtheneedle.Stitchslowlyforthebestcontrol.
KNIFE-EDGEPILLOWS
Theknife-edgepillowisprobablythemostversatilestylefordecoratingyourhome.Therearenolimitstothevariationsyoucancreate,notonlyinsize,color,andtexture,butalsoinaddeddetailsthatgiveyourpillowapersonaltouch.Thedirectionsthatfollowareforaknife-edgepillowthatis14"(35.5cm)square.Foryourfirstknife-edgepillow,werecommendafirmlywovenmediumweightfabric.
Ready-madeknife-edgepillowinsertscomeinawideselectionofsizes,including12",14",16",18",20",24",and30"(30.5,35.5,40.5,46,51,61,and76cm)squaresanda12"×16"(30.5×40.5cm)rectangle.Byadaptingthesecuttinginstructions,youcansewacoverforanysizepillowinsert.Youcanalsousetheseinstructionstosewyourownpillowinsertsinanysizeyoulike,stuffingthemtoaplumpnessthatpleasesyou.
HOWTOSEWAKNIFE-EDGEPILLOW
1Cuttwo15"(38cm)squaresoffabric,aligningthesidestothefabricgrainlines(page22).A1/2"(1.3cm)seamallowanceisneededoneachside,so1"(2.5cm)isaddedtoeachdimensionofthedesiredfinishedsize.
MATERIALS
•14"(35.5cm)squarepillowform•1/2yd.(0.5m)offabric
•Matchingthread•Hand-sewingneedle
SKILLS
•Backstitch•Setandpressseams•Sewperfectcorners•Slipstitchanopeningclosedbyhand
tellmemoreDESIREDFINISHEDSIZE.Tomakeaknife-edgepillowofadifferentsize,simplycutyourfabric1"(2.5cm)largerinbothdirectionsthanthe
desiredfinishdsizeofyourpillow.Cut17"(43cm)squaresfora16"(40.5cm)pillow;cut13"×19"(33×48.5cm)rectanglesfora12"×18"(30.5×46cm)pillow.
2Placethepillowfrontoverthepillowback,rightsidestogether,andalignallfouredges.Pinthelayerstogetherneartheouteredges,insertingthepinsperpendiculartotheedges(p.42).Inthecenterofoneside,leavea7"(18cm)openingunpinned.
3Placethefabricunderthepresserfoot,justaheadoftheopening.Alignthecutedgesofthefabrictothe1/2"(1.3cm)seamallowanceguideonthebedofyourmachine.Removethepinthatmarkstheopening,beforeloweringthepresserfoot.
4Backstitchthreeorfourstitches;stop.Then,stitchingforward,stitchtheseamonallfoursides,pivotingwiththeneedledownatthecorners.Endtheseamattheoppositesideoftheopening;backstitchthreeorfourstitches.
5Removethefabricfromthemachine.Trimthethreadsclosetothefabric.Presstheseamsflattosetthestitchinglineinthefabric.Thismayseemunnecessary,butitreallydoesgiveyouabetterlookingseamintheend.
TIPMostmachineshaveahandythreadcutterlocatedwithinafewinches(centimeters)ofthepresserfoot.Byusingthisthreadcutter,youarealsopullingenoughthreadthroughtheneedleandupfromthebobbintohelpyoupreventathreadjamatthestartofyournextseam.
6Turnbackthetopseamallowance,andpress,applyinglightpressurewithtipoftheirondownthecreaseoftheseam.Intheareaoftheopening,turnbackandpressthetopseamallowance1/2"(1.3cm).
7Turnthecoverover;turnbackandpresstheremainingopeningseamallowance.
8Toturnaperfectcorner,foldintheseamallowancesfromoneedge,andthenfoldintheseamallowancesfromtheadjacentedgeoverthem.Slipfourfingersthroughthepillowopeningandpinchthefoldedcornerbetweenyourthumbandonefinger.Turnthatcornerthroughtheopening.Repeatwiththeotherthreecorners.Yourpillowcoverhasnowbeenturnedrightsideout.
9Compressandinsertthepillowform.Alignthepressededgesoftheopening,andpintheopeningclosed.Threadahandneedleandtieaknotintheend.
10Slipstitchtheopeningclosed,followingtheinstructionsonpage49.tellmemorePERFECTCORNER.Thecornersofyourpillowshouldbesharplysquared,notrounded.Toimprovetheappearanceofaslightlyrounded
corner,youcanpushapointedutensilintothecornerfrominsidethepillowcovertoforcethestitchesouttothecorner.Aninexpensivespecialtytool,calledapointturner(page20),workswell;oryoucanuseachopstick,aballpointpenwiththeinkballretracted,orsomethingsimilar.Uselightpressure,though,sothatyoudon’tpunchaholeinthecorner.
ZIPPERCLOSURES
Pillowsthatgettossedaround,leanedupon,andslidacrossthefloorneedoccasionalcleaning.Azipperclosuresewnintoaseammakesitmucheasiertoremoveandreinsertthepillowform.Anyknife-edgepillowcanbemadewithazipperclosure.Cutthefabricandpreparethepillowfrontandbackaccordingtothedirectionsintheproject.Thenfollowthesedirectionstocompletethepillow.
Purchaseaconventionalpolyestercoilzipper(notaseparatingstyle)tomatchyourfabric,inthesizeindicatedinthechartbelow.
HOWTOSEWAZIPPERCLOSURE
1Placethepillowfrontoverthepillowback,rightsidestogether.Pinthesidethatwillhavethezipper.Centerthezipperalongsidethepinnededges,andmarktheseamallowancesjustaboveandbelowthezipperstops.
TIPForbestresults,selectasidethatwascutonthelengthwisegrainofthefabric.Thelengthwisegrainismorestableandwillhavelesstendencytostretchasyousew.
2Stitcha1/2"(1.3cm)seamfromtheupperedgetothemark,backstitchingatthebeginningandtheend.Repeatattheloweredge.Leavethecentersectionopen.
ZIPPER PILLOW
7"(18cm) 12"to14"(30.5to35.5cm)
9"(23cm) 16"to18"(40.5to46cm)
12"(30.5cm) 20"(51cm)orlarger
3Machine-basteontheseamlinebetweenthemarks.Clipthebastingstitchesevery2"(5cm)withaseamripper.Thiswillmakethestitcheseasiertoremovelater
4Presstheseamflat;thenpresstheseamallowancesopen.Finishtheseamallowanceswithazigzagstitch(page46).
TIPIfyourfabricislooselywovenortendstoraveleasily,repeatedwashingscouldmaketheseamallowancesravelawayandruinyourpillow.Asapreventativemeasure,takethetimetofinishalloftheseamallowances.
5Applybastingtape(page21)totherightsideofthezippertape,runningitalongbothouteredges.
6Placethezipperfacedownovertheseam,withthezippercoildirectlyoverthebastedpartoftheseamlineandthepulltabturneddown.Thezippercoilshouldbecenteredbetweenthebackstitchedareas.Presswithyourfingerstosecurethezippertotheseamallowances.
tellmemoreMACHINE-BASTE.Setthemachineforthelongeststraightstitchpossible.Thisstitchingistemporaryandwillbeeasilyremovedlater.
7Spreadthepillowpiecesflat,rightsideup.Insertpinsintheseamline,justaboveandbelowthezipperstops.Cut1/2"(1.3cm)transparenttapetofitbetweenthepins;placeitdownthecenteroftheseamline.
8Attachthezipperfootandadjustittotheleftoftheneedle.Ifyourzipperfootisnotadjustable,adjusttheneedletotherightofthefoot.Stitchalongtheouteredgeofthetape,stitchingacrossoneend,downoneside,andacrosstheotherend;pivotatthecorners.
9Adjustthezipperfoottotherightoftheneedleoradjustyourneedletotheleftofthefoot.Stitchoverthepreviousstitchesatoneend,downtheoppositeside,andoverthestitchesattheotherend.Clipthethreads.
10Removethetape.Carefullyremovethemachinebastingintheseamline,usingaseamripper.
11Openthezipper.Pinthepillowfrontandback,rightsidestogether,alongthethreeremainingsides.Stitch1/2"(1.3cm)seam;press.Turnthepillowcoverrightsideoutandinsertthepillowformthroughthezipperopening.
BABYBLANKET
Blanketsservemanypurposesintheroutineofbabycare.Mostoftentheyprovidecomfort,warmth,andsecurityforlittletykes.Ablanketalsoprovidesasoftsurfaceforrollingaroundonthefloororamake-dopadforaquickchangewhenyou’reonthego.Witheasy-toapplyblanketbindingandsyntheticfleecefabric,youcansewupnewblanketsinajiffy.Becausethefollowingmethodinvolvestheuseoffabricglue,you’llwanttolaunderthefinishedblanketbeforeyouuseit.
HOWTOSEWABABYBLANKET
1Cutarectangleoffabric36"×45"(91.5×115cm).Useaquiltingrulerorcarpenter’ssquaretoensuresquarecorners.Inthefollowingsteps,unrollthebindingfromthepackageasyouneedit,anddon’tcutituntilstep7.
TIPSyntheticfleeceisactuallyaknitfabricandisusually60"(152.5cm)wide.Avoidusingeitheroftheselvagesasasideofyourrectanglebecausetheymaybeslightlystretchedoutofshape.
MATERIALS
•1yd.(0.95m)syntheticfleece•Satinblanketbindingincolortomatchorcoordinatewithfabric•Quiltingrulerorcarpenter’ssquare•Fabricgluestick(page20)•Threadtomatchblanketbinding
SKILLS
•Applysatinblanketbinding•Sewmiteredcorners•Carefulpressing
2Beginningabout10"(25.5cm)fromonecornerandworkingtowardthecornerinaclockwisedirection,sliptheblanketedgebetweenthelayersofthebinding.Tucktheedgeinascloseaspossibletothebindingfold.Insertpinsthroughallthelayers,perpendiculartotheedge.Spacethepinsabout2"(5cm)apartwiththeheadsoutward.
TIPBesuretokeepthebindingfoldedsmoothandflatovertheedge,sothattheoutercreaseremainssharp.Thiswillensurethatthefinishedbindingedgesonthefrontandbackoftheblanketareperfectlyaligned.
3Setthemachinetosewamultistitchzigzag(page46)atmaximumwidthand12stitchesperinch,whichequals2mm.Placetheblanketunderthepresserfootatthebindingend,withtheinneredgeofthebindingalignedtotheleftsideofthepresserfootopening.Stitchtothefabricedge,removingpinsasyoucometothem.Stop,andremovethefabricfromthemachine.
tellmemoreLEFTSIDEOFTHEPRESSERFOOTOPENING.Theopeninginthecenterofthepresserfootismorethanwideenoughtoaccommodatethewidest
stitchyourmachinecansew.Guidethefabric,keepingatinyspacebetweenthebindingedgeandtheleftedgeoftheopening.Thefarthestleftstitchoftheneedleshouldjuststitchofftheedgeofthebinding.Adjustthepositionslightly,ifnecessary.
4Taketheblankettotheironingboard.Openoutthebindingatthecorner,andfolditdownalongthenextside,sothatthefabricedgealignstothebindingfold.A45°anglewillforminthebinding.Presstheanglelightlywiththetipoftheiron.
5Foldthebindingclosedsothattheangledfoldformsamiteredcorner.Thefoldrunsdiagonallyfromtheoutercornertotheinnercorner,matchingupperfectly.
6Fliptheblanketoverandmiterthebackofthebindingsothatthediagonalfoldonthebackalsolinesupperfectly.Usingafabricgluestick(page20),securethefoldsinplace.Thisiscalledglue-basting.
7Encaseandpintheblanketedgetothenextcorner.Placetheblanketunderthepresserfoot,aligningtheinnercornerofthemitertotheleftsideofthepresserfootopening.Backstitchtwoorthreestitches.Stitchforwardtothefabricedgeatthenextcorner.Stop,andremovetheblanketfromthemachine.
8Repeatsteps4to7fortheremainingcorners.Onthesidewhereyoustarted,cutthebinding4"(10cm)beyondthebeginning.Openthefold;pressunder2"(5cm)attheend.
9Refoldandfinishencasingandpinningtheblanketedge.Thefoldedendshouldoverlapthecutend2"(5cm).Glue-bastethefoldedendinplace.Stitchthelastside,stitchingabout1"(2.5cm)beyondtheoverlap.Removetheblanketfromthemachine,andclipthethreads.
10Resetthestitchlengthto0.Placetheoverlappedbindingendsunderthepresserfootsothatthefoldisabout1/4"(6mm)aheadofthepresserfootopening.Stitchinplaceuntiltheneedlehastraveledfromlefttorightatleasttwice.Thistackingwillkeeptheendsinplacethroughmanylaunderings.
tellmemoreRESETTHESTITCHLENGTHTO0.Themachinewillstillstitchsidetoside,asitisstillsetformultistitch-zigzag,butthefabricwillnotmove
forward.
ELASTIC-WAISTSKIRTS
Skirtswithelasticwaistbandsareclassic,comfortable,andeasy-care.Straightorflaredversionsinvaryinglengthscanbecoordinatedwithavarietyofsweatersorothertopsforbusiness,dress,orcasualwear.
Checkthepatternenvelopeforrecommendedfabrics.Somepatternsaredesignedonlyforknitsandgenerallyfitthebodycloser,countingonthestretchinessofthefabrictoallowyoutoslidetheskirtoveryourhips.Patternssuitableforwovenfabricswillincludeextrafullness.Thefirstsetofdirectionsworksforwovenorknitfabrics.Alternatestepsforsewingwithknitsbeginonpage86.Thesedirectionsmaydifferfromyourpattern;besuretousetheseamallowancegiveninyourpattern.Selectapatternwithtwopieces:afrontandaback.Anelasticcasingatthewaistlineisformedfromexcessfabriclengthattheskirttop.Theskirtitselfmaybeconstructedoftwo,three,orfoursections,dependingonwhetherornottherearecenterfrontorbackseams.
HOWTOSEWAPULL-ONSKIRT
1Toconstructtheskirtfollowingthesedirections,23/4"(7cm)offabricmustbeallowedforthecasingabovethewaistline.Thismaybedifferentfromthecasingallowancealreadyonyourpattern.Measurethisdistancefromthewaistline,andmarkacuttinglineonyourpattern.(Addextrapaper,ifnecessary.)Besuretomarkbothfrontandbackpatternpieces.
MATERIALS
•Skirtpatternwithelasticwaistline•Fabric(checkpatternforamount)•Matchingall-purposethread•1"(2.5cm)nonrollelastic,enoughtogoaroundyourwaist
SKILLS
•Sewelasticwaistlines•Hemaskirt•Sewandfinishseams
2Preparethefabric(page25),layoutthepattern(page32),andcutthefabric
(page36).Transferanynecessarymarks(page37).Insertasize11/70or12/80sharporuniversalsewingmachineneedle.Ifyourpatterndoesnothavecenterfrontorbackseams,moveontostep4.Ifyourpatternhasacenterfrontseam,placetheskirtfrontpiecesrightsidestogether,aligningthecentercutedgesandmatchingthenotches.Insertpinsperpendiculartothecenterfrontseam.
TIPBesureyouarenotpinningthepiecestogetheralongthesideseams.Sometimesitisdifficulttotellthedifference.Checkyourpatterntobesure.
3Placethefabricunderthepresserfootwiththecutedgesalignedtothe5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceguide.Stitchthecenterfrontseam,backstitchingafewstitchesattheupperandloweredges.Ifyourpatternhasacenterbackseam,stitchitinthesamemanner.
TIPIfyourskirthassideseampockets,followthepatterndirectionscarefullybecausemethodsvarygreatly.
4Placethefrontandbackskirtpiecesrightsidestogether,aligningthesideedgesandmatchingthenotches.Insertpinsperpendiculartothesides(p.43).
Stitchthesideseams,backstitchingattheupperandloweredges,andremovingpinsasyoucometothem(p.43).Ifyouaresewingonawovenfabric,finish(page46)theedgesofalltheseamallowances.
5Pressalltheseamsflattosetthestitchinglineinthefabric.Thismayseemunnecessary,butitreallydoesgiveyouabetter-lookingseamintheend.Thenpresstheseamallowancesopen.
TIPTopreventthecutedgeoftheseamallowancefromimprintingthefrontofthefabric,pressseamsopenoveraseamrollorhardcardboardtube.
6Bastetheseamallowancesopenflatfromtheupperedgedownabout4"(10cm)(arrow).Thiswillkeepthemfromgettinginthewaywhenyouinserttheelasticinstep9.Finishthewaistlineedge,usingamultistitch-zigzag(page46).Foldtheupperedge11/2"(3.8cm)tothewrongside,andpress.Insertpinsalongandperpendiculartothefold.
7Edgestitchclosetothefoldaroundtheupperedgeofthewaistline.Beginandendatasideseam,overlappingthestitchesabout1/2"(1.3cm).
8Insertpinsalongtheloweredgeofthecasing.Placeapieceoftapeonthebedofyourmachine11/4"(3.2cm)fromthetipoftheneedle.Stitchtheloweredgeofthecasing,guidingtheupperedgealongthetape.Leavea2"(5cm)openingatonesideseam.
TIPSometimesitisdifficulttotelltheskirtfrontfromthebackwhenthegarmentisfinished.We’vesewnashortloopoftwilltapeunderthecasingseamtoidentifytheback.
9Fastenasafetypinorbodkin(page19)tooneendoftheelastic,andinserttheelasticthroughthecasingopening.Pushandpullthesafetypinallthewaytotheoppositesideoftheopening.Removethebastingthreadsfromstep6.
TIPInsertalargesafetypinacrossthefreeendoftheelasticsothatitwillnotgetpulledintotheopening.
10Tryontheskirt.Pulluptheelastictofityourwaistsnugly,yetcomfortably;pintheendstogether.Takeofftheskirt,andtrimtheoverlappedendsto1/2"(1.3cm),ifnecessary.
11Pullthepinnedendsoftheelasticseveralinches(centimeters)outofthecasing.Placethemunderthepresserfoot,andstitchthroughbothlayers,usingamultistitch-zigzag.Toreinforce,stitchagain.
12Machine-stitchtheopeninginthecasingclosed.Distributethecasingfullnessevenlyaroundtheelastic.Stitchintheditchattheseams(arrow)tokeeptheelasticfromshiftingorrolling.
13Tryontheskirt,andhavesomeonemarkthehemlengthforyou,usingchalkorpins.Takeofftheskirt,andtrimthehemallowancetoanevendepth.(Checkthepatternforhemallowance.)Turnunderthehemalongthemarkings,andpin.Press.Fordouble-foldhemsonslightlyflaredskirts,itishelpfultohand-basteontheinnerfold.
14Stitchthehembyhand(page52)orbymachine(page53);selectamethodthatwillallowthehemtostretch,ifyouareusingaknit.Givetheskirtafinalpressing,andgiveyourselfapatontheback.
tellmemoreSTITCHINTHEDITCH.Stitchingfromtherightsideandusingshortstitches,stitchdirectlyintothewelloftheseam.Yourstitcheswill
practicallydisappear.
MARKTHEHEMLENGTH.Duringthemarking,standstraight,wearingtheshoesyouwillbewearingwiththeskirt.Thepersonmarkingshouldmeasureupfromthefloortothedesiredlength,movingaroundyouasnecessary.Otherwise,thehemwillbeuneven.Ifyoudon’thavehelp,turnupthehemtothedesiredlengthallthewayaroundandcheckinamirrorforevenlength.
ALTERNATESTEPSFORAKNITPULL-ONSKIRT
1Toconstructaknitskirtfollowingthesedirections,anamountoffabricequaltotwicethewidthoftheelasticmustbeallowedabovethewaistline.Measurethisdistancefromthewaistline,andmarkanewcuttinglineonyourpattern.(Addextrapaper,ifnecessary.)Besuretomarkbothfrontandbackpatternpieces.Followsteps2to5onpages82and83,sewingwiththeseamallowancesdesignatedbyyourpattern.Itisnotnecessarytofinishseamsonknitskirts.
TIPReadyourpatterndirections.Somepatterns,especiallythosethathave1/4"(6mm)seamallowances,instructyoutosewyourelastic
waistlinewiththismethod.Thereisnoneedtoalterthosepatterns,astheyalreadyallowthisamountoffabricatthetop.
2Cutapieceofelasticthatfitsyourwaistsnugly,yetstillstretchtofitoveryourhips.Overlaptheends1/2"(1.3cm),andstitchthemtogether,usingawidezigzagstitchormultistitch-zigzag.Divideboththeelasticandtheupperedgeoftheskirtintofourths,andpin-mark.Pintheelastictothewrongsideoftheskirt,aligningtheedgesandmatchingthepinmarks;insertthepinsperpendiculartotheedges.
3Insertfourmorepins,evenlyspaced,betweenthequartermarks,distributingthefabricfullnessevenly.Setyourmachineforamedium-widthmultistitch-zigzag.Placetheskirtunderthepresserfootwiththeelasticontop.Aligntheedgeofthefoottotheelasticandfabricedges.Stitch,stretchingtheelastictofitbetweenthepinsandkeepingtheedgesaligned.Removepinsasyoucometothem,stoppingwiththeneedledowninthefabric.
4Foldtheelastictothewrongsideoftheskirt,sothefabricencasestheelastic.Fromtherightsideoftheskirt,stitchintheditch(p.85)oftheseamthroughallthewaistbandlayers,ateachseam.Thisstepmakesstep5easier.
TIPStretchthewaistbandslightlytogiveyourselfaclearviewofyourtarget.
5Withtherightsidefacingup,topstitchthroughalllayersofthewaistband,stretchingtheelasticasyousew.Useeitherazigzagormultistitch-zigzag,withmediumwidthandlength,andstitchneartheloweredgeoftheelastic.Thesestitcheswillallowtheskirttostretchasitgoesoveryourhips.Finishtheskirt,followingsteps13and14onpage85.
tellmemoreTWICETHEWIDTHOFTHEELASTIC.Forthismethod,1"(2.5cm)elasticworkswell,thoughyoumaydecidetouseadifferentwidth.Some
specialtyelasticshavechannelsfortopstitching,givingthelookofmultiplerows.
STRETCHINGTHEELASTICTOFITBETWEENTHEPINS.Graspthefabricandelasticbehindthepresserfootwithonehandandaheadofthepresser
footwiththeotherhand,workinginsmallsectionsatatime.Stretchtheelasticonlyfarenoughtotakeuptheslackinthefabric.Keepaneventensionontheelastic,allowingthefeeddogstofeedthefabricatasteadypace.Stopsewingtomoveyourhands.
ELASTIC-WAISTPANTS
Pull-onpantswithelasticwaistsareeasytofitandeasytosew.Whensewninsupple,lightweightwovens,suchasrayonormicrofiber,theyareelegantenoughforeveningwear.Forsportierlooks,cotton,cottonblends,linen,orseersuckerworkwellandcanbepairedwithsimpleT-shirtsorblouses.Considerpurchasingenoughfabrictomakeamatchingjackettogowithyourpantsandcompletetheoutfit.
Selectapantspatternwithtwomainpieces:thefrontandtheback.Theelasticcasingforthewaistisformedfromexcessfabricatthetop.Theseinstructionsareforpantswithoutpockets.Themethodforsewingside-seampocketsvariesfrompatterntopattern.Onceyouunderstandthebasicsofsewingpull-onpants,youcanadvancetoapatternwithpockets,followingthepatterninstructionsclosely.
MATERIALS
•Pantspattern;loose-fittingwithelasticwaistline•Fabric(checkpatternforamount)•Matchingall-purposethread•3/8"(1cm)elastic,enoughtogotwicearoundyourwaist
SKILLS
•Alterthecrotchlengthofapattern•Altertheleglengthofapattern•Makeamulti-rowelasticwaistband
Thewaistbandcasingonthesepantsisdividedinhalfwithastitchinglinetoaccommodatetwoelasticstrips.
HOWTOSEWPULL-ONPANTS
1Measurethelengthofthecrotchseamonapairofpantsthatyouknowfitscomfortably.Startfromthebottomofthewaistbandinthefrontandmeasurethedistancearoundthecrotchtothebottomofthewaistbandintheback.Onyourpattern,measurethetotalcrotchlength,standingthetapemeasureonedgeandmeasuringalongtheseamlineofthecenterfrontandcenterback.Beginandendatthewaistlinemark;don’tincludethe5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowancesattheinseam.
2Comparethepantscrotchlengthtothepatterncrotchlength.Alteryourpattern,ifnecessary.Cutthepatternpiecesapartonthehorizontaladjustmentline.Thenlapthepiecesbyhalfthetotalamountneededtoshorten(left),orseparatethepiecesbyhalfthetotalamountneededtolengthen(right).Insertapaperstriptolengthen;tapethepiecesinplace.
3Next,comparetheinseammeasurementsonyourpantsandonyourpattern,measuringfromthecrotchseamlinetothehemline.Makeanynecessaryalterationatthehorizontaladjustmentline.
4Toconstructthepantsfollowingthesedirections,23/4"(7cm)offabricmustbeallowedforthecasingabovethewaistline.Measurethisdistancefromthewaistline,andmarkanewcuttinglineonyourpattern.(Addextrapaper,ifnecessary.)Besuretomarkbothfrontandbackpatternpieces.
5Preparethefabric(page25),layoutthepattern(page32),andcutthefabric(page36).Transferanynecessarymarks(page37).Setyoursewingmachineonastraightstitchof10to12stitchesperinch,whichis2to2.5mm.Insertasewingmachineneedlesuitableforyourfabric(page12).Placetherightfrontovertherightback,rightsidestogether,alongtheinnerleg.Pinthemtogether,matchingnotchesandinsertingthepinsperpendiculartotheedges(p.43).Stitchtheseam,using5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceunlessyourpatternindicatesanotherseamallowance.Repeatfortheleftfrontandbacklegs.
6Finishtheedgesoftheseamallowances(page46).Presstheseamsflat;thenpressthemopen.
tellmemoreBYHALFTHETOTALAMOUNTNEEDED.Forexample,ifyouneedtoshortenthecrotch1"(2.5cm),shortenthepantsfront1/2"(1.3cm),and
shortenthepantsback1/2"(1.3cm).
7Withrightsidestogether,pinthesewnrightandleftpantssectionstogetheratthecrotchseam.Lineuptheinnerlegseams,andmatchanynotches.Stitchtheentireseam.Thenstitchthecurvedareaoftheseambetweenthenotchesasecondtime,1/4"(6mm)fromthefirststitching.
8Trimtheseaminthecurvedareaofthecrotchclosetothesecondstitchingline.Finishthetrimmedseamallowances.Thenalsofinishtheremainingseamallowancesseparately.Presstheseamallowancesopeninthefrontandback,abovethetrimmedportionoftheseam.
9Pinthefrontandback,rightsidestogether,atthesideseams,matchingnotchesandanyothermarks.Stitcha5/8"(1.5cm)seamfromthebottomofthelegtotheupperedge.Repeatfortheothersideseam.
10Finishtheseamallowancesseparately.Presstheseamsflat;thenpressthemopen,usingaseamroll.Bastealltheseamallowancesopenflatfromtheupperedgedownabout4"(10cm).Thiswillkeepthemfromgettinginthewaywhenyouinserttheelasticinstep15.
11Finishthewaistline(page46).Foldtheupperedge11/2"(3.8cm)tothewrongside,andpress.Insertpinsalongandperpendiculartothefold.
12Edgestitch(p.63)closetothefoldaroundtheupperedgeofthewaistline.Beginandendatasideseam,overlappingthestitchesabout1/2"(1.3cm).
13Placeapieceoftapeonthebedofyourmachine11/4"(3.2cm)fromthetipoftheneedle.Stitchtheloweredgeofthecasing,guidingtheupperedgealongthetape.Leavea2"(5cm)openingatonesideseam.
14Measurefromtheupperedgeofthewaisttoapointhalfwaybetweenthetwostitchinglines.Placetapeonthemachinebedasasewingguide.Stitch,leavinga2"(5cm)openingjustabovethefirstopening.
TIPTousethreerowsof1/4"(6mm)elasticinyourwaistlinecasing,dividethespaceintoeventhirds.
15Cuttwopiecesof3/8"(1cm)elasticalittlelargerthanyourwaistmeasurement.Fastenasafetypinorbodkin(page19)tooneendofoneelastic,andinserttheelasticthroughthecasingopeningintothetopchannel.Pushandpullthesafetypinthroughallthewaytotheoppositesideoftheopening,takingcarenottoletthefreeenddisappearintotheopening.Thendothesamewiththesecondpieceofelastic,insertingitintothelowerchannel.Securetheendsofbothpieceswithsafetypins.
16Tryonthepants.Pulluptheelastictofityourwaistsnugly,yetcomfortably;pintheendstogether.Takeoffthepants.Pullthepinnedendsofthetopelasticseveralinches(centimeters)outofthecasing.Trimtheoverlappedendsto1/2"(1.3cm),ifnecessary.Placethemunderthepresserfoot,andstitchthroughbothlayers,usingamultistitch-zigzag.Repeatforthelowerelastic.
17Machine-stitchtheopeningsinthecasingclosed.Distributethecasingfullnessevenlyaroundtheelastic.Stitchintheditch(p.85)attheseamstokeeptheelasticfromshiftingorrolling.Removethebastingstitchesfromstep10.
18Turnunderthehemallowance,andpininplace.Tryonthepants,andadjustthelength,ifnecessary.Takeoffthepants,andtrimthehemallowancetoanevendepth.Pressthefold.Finishtheloweredge.Stitchthehembyhand(page52)orbymachine(page53).Givethepantsafinalpressing,andthey’rereadytowear!
T-SHIRTS
T-shirtsareclassicandversatile;itseemsyoucanneverhavetoomany.Asyoubecomemoreexperienced,you’llbesurprisedhowquicklyyouareabletomakethem.Thefunbeginsinselectingyourknitfabric(page23)fromthearrayofstripes,prints,andcolorfulsolidsavailable.
Tohelpyoudecidewhichpatterntobuy,notethewaythet-shirtsfitthemodelsorsketchesonthepatternenvelopefront.Somepatternsaredesignedforanoversizedlook,othersaremeanttofityourbodymoreclosely.Yourpatternshouldhavefourpieces:front,back,sleeve,andneckribbing.Somemayalsohaveapieceforsleeveribbing.
ThefitoftheT-shirtwillvarywiththefabric’sdegreeofstretch.T-shirtpatterns,designedforknitsonly,indicatetheamountofstretchrequiredofthefabric.Forinstance,“25%stretchcrosswise”wouldindicatethat4"(10cm)offabricwillstretchonthecrosswisegrainanadditional1"(2.5cm).Alwaystestthedegreeofstretchinthefabric,especiallyifyouaremakingaclose-fittingT-shirt.
MATERIALS
•T-shirtpattern(designedforstretchknits)•Knitfabric(checkpatternforamount)•Scrapsoffusibleknitinterfacing(page19)•Ribbing(checkpatternforamount)•Matchingall-purposethread
SKILLS
•Sewwithknitfabric•Sewinsleeves•Applyribbingtoaneckline
HOWTOSEWAT-SHIRT
1Preparethefabric(page25);however,don’twashtheribbing,astherawedgesarelikelytostretchoutofshape.T-shirtsareeasiesttosewusing1/4"(6mm)seamallowances.Ifyourpatternpieceshave5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowances,trimthemdownto1/4"(6mm)beforelayingoutthepattern.Layoutthepattern(page32),andcutthefabric(page36).Transferanynecessarymarks(page37).Insertaballpointsewingmachineneedle;size11/70or12/80issuitableformostknits.Cuttwo1/2"(1.3cm)stripsoffusibleinterfacingthelengthoftheshoulderseam.Placeastripevenwiththecutedgeofeachbackshoulder,onthewrongsideofthefabric.Fusethestripsinplace,followingthemanufacturer’sdirections.Thisisdonetostabilizetheshoulderseams.
TIPTheinterfacingboltiswrappedwithalongsheetofplasticonwhichthedirectionsareprinted.Havethestoreclerkcutoffasectionofthedirectionsforyoutotakehome.
2PlacetheT-shirtfrontovertheback,rightsidestogether,aligningtheshoulderseamallowanceedges.Pin,insertingthepinsperpendiculartotheedges.StitchthefrontandbackT-shirtsectionstogetherattheshoulderseams,usinga1/4"(6mm)seamallowance;backstitchafewstitchesateachedge.Sincetheshoulderseamsarestabilized,astraightstitchisappropriatehere.
3Addasecondrowofmachinestitching(eitherastraightstitchoranarrowzigzag)nexttothefirstrow,withintheseamallowance.Presstheshoulderseamallowancestowardtheshirtback.
4Markthecenterfrontandcenterbackofthenecklinewithpins.Thenbringthetwocenterstogetherandmarkthepointshalfwaybetweenwithpins.(thesemarksshouldbeslightlyaheadoftheshoulderseams.)Thenecklineisnowdividedintofourths.
5Sewtheshortendsoftheribbing,rightsidestogether,formingacircle.Use1/4"(6mm)seamallowance,andsewwithashortstraightstitch.Presstheseamopenwithyourfingers.Avoidpressingribbingwithaniron,asthismaydestroyitselasticity.
6Foldtheribbinginhalf,lengthwise,withtherawedgesevenandtheseamallowancesontheinside.Dividetheribbingintofourths,asyoudidtheneckline.Markthesesectionswithpins.
tellmemoreSTABILIZETHESHOULDERSEAMS.Shoulderseamsfollowthecrosswisegrain,thedirectioninwhichknitfabricsstretchthemost.However,itis
notdesirableornecessarytohaveshoulderseamsthatstretch.Narrowstripsoffusibleinterfacinghelptheseamskeeptheirintendedlength.You’llalsofindthatthismakessewinginthestretchydirectionmucheasier.
RIBBING,RIGHTSIDESTOGETHER.Sometimesknitfabricsandribbingsdonothavearightorwrongside.Totest,gentlystretchtherawedgeonthecrosswisegrainoftheribbing.Iftheedgecurlstooneside,thatsideistheright
sideofthefabric.Ifitdoesn’tcurltoeitherside,eithersidecanbeusedontheoutside.
7Pintheribbingtotherightsideoftheneckline,aligningtheribbingseamtothecenterbackpinmark;matchuptheremainingpinmarks.
8Placethefabricunderthepresserfoot,withtheribbingfacingup.Stitchwithanarrowzigzagorstretchstitch(page47),keepingtherawedgesevenandstretchingtheribbingevenlytofiteachsectionbetweenpins.Removethepinsasyoucometothem.
9Stitchagainnexttothefirstrow,usinganarrow,medium-lengthzigzagstitch.Gentlypresstheribbingtowardtheshirt,beingcarefulnottostretchtheribbing.
10Makesureyouhavemarkedthetopofthesleeveandanyothernotchesonthesleeveandshirtasindicatedonthepatternpieces.Withrightsidestogether,pinthesleevetothearmholeoftheshirt,matchingthetopdotornotchtotheshoulderseam,andaligninganyothernotches.Pinfrequently,easinginanyextrasleevefullness.
11Stitchthearmholeseam,usinganarrow,medium-lengthzigzagstitch;removethepinsasyoucometothem.Stitchagainnexttothefirstrow,withintheseamallowance.
12Repeatsteps10and11fortheothersleeve.Presstheseamstowardthesleeves.Withtherightsidestogether,pintheshirtfronttotheshirtbackalongthesidesandsleeves,matchingtheunderarmseams.
13Stitchandfinishtheseamsinthesamemannerasforthesleeveseams,beginningattheloweredgeoftheshirtandsewingcontinuouslytotheloweredgeofthesleeve.Presstheseamstowardtheback.
TIPYoucanpressthesideseams,simplybyslippingtheshirtovertheendoftheironingboard.Insertaseamrollorsleeveboard(page18)intothesleeve,soyoucanpresstheseamallowancetothesidewithoutpressingunwantedcreasesintotheoppositesideofthesleeve.
14Turnunderthelowerhemallowance,asspecifiedbyyourpattern.Stitchthehembyhand(page52)orbymachine(page53);selectamethodthatwillallowthehemtostretch,ifnecessary.Hemtheloweredgesofthesleevesinthesamemanner.
tellmemoreHEMALLOWANCE.Thepatternhasallowedapredeterminedextralengthforturningunderandfinishingthesleevesandloweredge.Thisamount
isindicatedonyourpattern.
APRONWITHPOCKETS
Withtherenewedinterestincookingandretrofashions,apronshavemadeagrandcomeback.Madefromawashablefabricwithafunprint,thisapronhasaskirtgatheredtoawaistbandwithtiesattached.Contrastingfabricwasusedforthepockets,waistband,andties.Rickracktrimappliedtothepocketsandskirthemgivetheapronaretrolook.
Thisstyleismadefromsixrectanglesoffabric:alargerectanglefortheskirt,twosmallerrectanglesforthepockets,twolongnarrowrectanglesforties,andoneforthewaistband.Youdon’tneedtobuyacommercialpattern,youcansimplymeasureandmarkoutthepiecesonyourfabricandcutthemout.
HOWTOSEWANAPRON
1Preparethefabric(page25).Layoutthefabricinasinglelayer.Usingacarpenter’ssquareorquilter’sruler,measureandmarkouttherectangleslistedbelow.Marktheskirtpieceononefabric;markthewaistband,pockets,andtiesontheotherfabric.Donotuseaselvageasoneofthesides.Cutoutthepieces.
DIMENSIONSFORAPRONPIECES
Skirt 20"long×30"wide(50.8x76.2cm)
2pockets 81/2"longx71/2"wide(21.6x19.2cm)
Waistband 41/2"x20"(11.4x50.8cm)
2ties 41/2"x28"(11.4x71.1cm)
Waistbandinterfacing 2"x19"(5.1x48.3cm)
MATERIALS
•5/8yd.(0.6m)lightweightwovenfabricforskirt•1/2yd.(0.5m)lightweightcontrastingfabricforpockets,waistband,andties
•Lightweightfusibleinterfacing,2"×19"(5.1×48.3cm)•Matchingall-purposethread•1packageofwiderickrack•Gluestick
SKILLS
•Gatheringfabric•Sewingawaistband•Sewingdouble-foldhems•Sewingapatchpocket
•Applyingdecorativetrims
2Foldupperedgeofonepocketpiece1"(2.5cm)tothewrongsideandpress.Unfoldtheedgeandturntherawedgeintomeetthepressedfold;pressagain.Thenrefoldtheedge,andpressagain,formingadouble-foldfacing.Repeatfortheotherpocket.
3Turnthefacingtotherightsideofthepocket,evenwiththebottomfold.Pinthelayerstogetheratthesides.Startingatthetopofthepocket,stitcha1/2"(1.3cm)seamtothebottomofthefacingoneachsideofthepocket,backstitchingatthebeginningandend.Trimthecornersdiagonally.Trimthefacingseamallowanceto1/4"(6mm)
4Turnthefacingtotheinside.Usingapointturnerorsimilartool,gentlypushoutthecornerstosquarethemoff.Pressthetopfold;thefacingshouldbe1/2"(1.3cm)wide.Foldinthesides1/2"(1.3cm),andpress.Tosquarethebottomcorners,turnunder1/2"(1.3cm)onthebottom,andpress.
tellmemoreTRIMTHEUPPERCORNERSDIAGONALLY.Thisminimizestheexcessbulktoformasmoothercornerwhenthepieceisturnedbacktotheinside.
5Findthe3/8"(1cm)seamguideonthethroatplate.Foreasierguiding,markthisdistancefromtheneedleonthemachinebed,usingtape.Topstitchtheupperedgeofthepocket,guidingthefoldalongthetapemarkandcatchingthefacinginthestitches.
6Cutrickrackthewidthofthepocketplus11/4"(3.2cm).Applygluesticktothebackoftherickrack.Placetherickrackoverthefacingstitchingline,wrappingtheendstotheundersideofthepocket.Stitchdownthecenteroftherickrack,backstitchingatthesidesofthepocket.Repeatforotherpocket.
7Placethepocketsontheapronskirt91/2"(24.1cm)fromthelongbottomedgeand6"(15.2cm)fromthesides.Makesurethepocketedgesareparalleltotheskirtedges.Pinthesidesandbottomedgesofthepocketstotheskirt,insertingthepinsperpendiculartothepocketedges.
8Withapencilorerasablefabricmarker,drawasmalltriangleineachuppercornerofeachpocket,1/8"(3mm)fromthetopandsideedges.Placetheskirtunderthepresserfootwiththetopofthepockettowardyou,aligningtheneedletostartsewingatthelowestpointofthetriangle.Stitchforwardtwostitches,thenbackstitchtwostitches.Nowstitchdiagonallytothetop,pivot,andstitchafewstitchesacrossthetopofthetriangle.Pivotagainsotheneedleisnowalignedtostitchdownthesideofthepocket.Edgestitcharoundthesidesandthebottomofthepocket,andfinishwiththetriangleontheoppositecorner,againbackstitchingtwostitches.
TIPApronpocketsareusedfrequently.Stitchingtrianglesatthetop
cornersreinforcesthembetterthanmerelybackstitching,whichcanputmorestrainontheskirtfabricbeneaththepocket.
9Turnundertheloweredgeoftheskirt2"(5.1cm)andpress.Unfoldtheedgeandturntherawedgeintomeetthepressedfold;pressagain.Refoldtheedge,forminga1"(2.5cm)double-foldhem.Insertpinsperpendiculartothefolds.
10Atthebottomcorneroftheskirt,turnthehemtotherightside,keepingtheinnerfoldinplace.Pinthelayerstogetheratthesides.Stitcha1"(2.5cm)seamacrossthehem,backstitchingatthebeginningandend.Trimthecornerdiagonally.Turnthecornerrightsideout.Repeatforotherside.
11Foldandpress1/2"(1.3cm)double-foldhemsintheskirtsides,makingthefirstfold1"(2.5cm)deep.Insertpinsperpendiculartothefolds.
12Placetheskirt,rightsidedown,underthepresserfootwiththebulkofthefabrictotheleftofthemachine.Beginningatthetopofthesidehem,stitchalongtheinnerfold,removingpinsasyoucometothem.Pivotatthetopfoldofthebottomhem,andstitchalongthehemfoldtotheoppositeside.Pivotagain,andstitchalongtheinnerfoldoftheothersidehemtotheskirttop.
13Cutrickrackthewidthoftheskirtplus11/4"(3.2cm).Applyrickrackoverthestitchinglineofthebottomhem,followingstep6.
14Setyourmachinetosewlongstraightstitches.Beginningatonesidehem,basteascant1/2"(1.3cm)fromthetopedgeoftheskirt.Stitchfromtherightsideofthefabric.Stopstitchingattheoppositesidehem.Stitchanotherrowoflongstitches1/4"(6mm)closertotheedge.Leavethreadtailsateachend.Settheskirtaside.
tellmemoreDOUBLE-FOLDHEM.Double-foldhemsaremadewithtwofoldsofequaldepths,encasingthecutedgeinthecreaseoftheouterfold.Pressing
thefirstfoldtothetotalhemdepthallowsyoutobemoreaccurateinturningandpressing.
15Foldatielengthwise,withrightsidestogetherandrawedgeseven.Insertpinsperpendiculartotheedges.Stitch1/2"(1.3cm)seamacrossoneendofthetieandthelongedge.Trimcornersdiagonally.Repeatfortheothertie.Turnthetiesrightsideout.Press.Topstitch1/8"(3mm)fromoutsideedges.Setthetiesaside.
16Pressthewaistbandinhalflengthwise,andunfold.Placetheinterfacingstrip,fusiblesidedown,onthewrongsideofthewaistband,aligningonelongedgetothecentercreaseandcenteringthestriplengthwise.Fusetheinterfacinginplace.
17Pressunder3/8"(1cm)onthelongunfusededgeofthewaistband.Markthecutedgeofthewaistband1/2"(1.3cm)fromeachend.Thendividethewaistbandintofourequalparts,andmark,usingchalkpencilorerasablemarker.Alsodividetheupperedgeoftheskirtintofourequalparts,andmark.
18Withrightsidestogether,pinthecutedgeofthewaistbandtotheupperedgeoftheskirt,matchingquartermarks.Insertpinsfromtheskirtside.Atoneend,graspbothofthebobbinthreads,andpullonthemwithequaltension,slidingthefabricalongthethreadtogatherit.
19Keeppullingonthebobbinthreads,gatheringthefabric,anddistributingthegathersevenlybetweenthepinsonhalfofthewaistband.Whentheskirtfabricisgathereduptofitthathalf,securethebobbinthreadsbywindingtheminafigureeightaroundtheendpin.
20Pullthebobbinthreadsfromtheotherendtogathertheremaininghalf;securethethreads.Distributeallthegatheredfabricevenlyalongthewaistband,insertingpinsfrequentlytoholdthefabricinplace.
tellmemoreTURNTHETIESRIGHTSIDEOUT.Therearespecialtoolsforturningnarrowtubesinsideout.Lookforthematthefabricstore.Becausethis
isafrequentlyrequiredtaskinsewing,itisworthittobuyoneofthesetools.Inapinch,youcanprobablygetthejobdonebyworkingthefabricovertheeraserendofapencilorawoodenspoonhandle,butit’smuchhardertodo.
21Resetthestitchlengthfor10to12stitchesperinch,whichis2to2.5mm.Placethefabricunderthepresserfoot,thewaistbandonthebottom.Stitchthewaistseam1/2"(1.3cm)fromtherawedges.Keepthegathersevenandremovepinsasyoucometothem.
22Trimtheseamallowancesjustabovethegatheringstitches.
23Turntheseamallowancetowardthewaistband,andpresslightlywiththetipoftheiron.Avoidpressingcreasesintothegathers.
24Pinthetiestotheshortendsofthewaistband,rightsidestogether.Foldthecentercreaseofthewaistbandintheoppositedirectionovertheties,rightsidestogether.Stitcha1/2"(1.3cm)seamacrosseachendofthewaistband.Trimtheseamsandclipthecornersdiagonally.
25Turnthewaistbandrightsideout,encasingtherawendsoftheties.Press.Thefoldededgeshouldextenddownovertheseamonthewrongside.Fromtherightside,pinintheditchofthewaistbandseam,catchingthefoldededgeontheback.
TIPBesuretokeeptheseamallowanceturnedupasitwaspressed.Checktobesurethefoldededgeofthewaistbandispinnedataconsistentdepthandliesflat.
26Stitchintheditch(p.85)oftheseamfromtherightsideoftheskirt,backstitchingattheendsofthewaistbandandremovingpinsasyoucometothem.Becarefulnottocatchthetiesinthestitching.
UNLINEDJACKETS
Collarlessjacketsareversatileadditionstoanywardrobe.Thosethatareloose-fittingandunlined,withdrop-shoulderstylingandpatchpockets,areeasytomake.Lookforapatternthatincludespiecesforfront,back,sleeve,frontfacing,backfacing,andpocket.
thesedirectionsareforsquarebottomfrontcorners.Ifyourpatternhasroundcorners,paycloseattentiontothepatterndirectionswhenattachingthefacing(step11)andhemmingtheloweredge(steps24to27).Aswithanyotherproject,thefabricofyourjacketwilldeterminewhetheritwillbemoresuitableforcasual,business,ordress.Cotton,cottonblends,anddenimwouldbegoodchoicestowearwithjeansorcasualslacksandskirts.Wool,woolblends,linen,andrayonworkforbusinessordress.Whenyou’refeelingreallyconfident,youmightevenconsidermakingajacketofsuit-weightsilk,liketheoneatleft.
MATERIALS
•Jacketpattern;unlined,loose-fitting•Fabricforjacket(checkpatternforamount)•Matchingall-purposethread•Lightweightfusibleinterfacing(checkpatternforamount)•Buttons
SKILLS
•Sewadrop-shouldersleeve•Sewapatchpocket•Applyfusibleinterfacing•Sewneckandfrontfacings
HOWTOSEWANUNLINEDJACKET
1Preparethefabric(page25).Layoutthepatternpieces(page32),andcutout(page36)allbutthefacings.Fuseinterfacingtothewrongsideofthefabricforthefacings,followingthemanufacturer’sdirections(p.98).Thencutoutthefacings.Transferanynecessarymarks(page37).
2Turnunderthetopedgeofthepocket1/4"(6mm);press.Tofinishtheedge,setyourmachineforazigzagstitchofmediumlengthandwidth.Stitchclosetothefoldededge,sothattheright-handswingoftheneedlejustclearsthefold.
3Turntheupperedgeofthepocket(thefacing)totheoutsideonthefoldline;pinatthesides.Startingatthetopofthepocket,stitcha5/8"(1.5cm)seamtothebottomofthefacingoneachsideofthepocket,backstitchingatthebeginningandend.Trimthefacingseamallowanceto3/8"(1cm).Trimtheuppercornersdiagonally.
4Turnthefacingtotheinside.Usingapointturnerorsimilartool,gentlypushoutthecornerstosquarethemoff.Pressthetopfold.Ifthepockethassquarebottomcorners,turnunder5/8"(1.5cm)onthebottom,andpress.Thenrepeatforthesideedges.
5Setyoursewingmachineforastraightstitchof10to12stitchesperinch,whichis2to2.5mm.Measurethefinishedwidthofthefacing;subtract1/8"(3mm).Markthisdistancefromtheneedleonthemachinebed,usingtape.Topstitchtheupperedgeofthepocket,guidingthefoldalongthetapemarkandcatchingthefacinginthestitches.
6Repeatsteps2to5fortheotherpocket.Placethepocketsonthejacketfront,matchingtheuppercornerstothemarkingstransferredfromthepattern.Pinthemsecurelyinplace,insertingthepinsperpendiculartotheedges(p.43).Edgestitcharoundthesidesandbottomofthepockets,backstitchingatbothuppercorners.Stopwiththeneedledowninthefabrictopivotateachcorner.Removethepinsasyoucometothem(p.43).
7Pinthejacketfrontstothejacketbackattheshoulders,withrightsidestogether,aligningthecutedgesandmatchinganynotches.Insertthepinsperpendiculartotheedges.
8Stitchtheseams,guidingthecutedgesalongthe5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceguide.Presstheseamsflat;thenpressthemopen.
9Sewthefrontfacingstothebackfacingattheshouldersasinsteps7and8.Trimtheseamallowancesto1/4"(6mm).Finishtheinner,unnotchededgesofthefrontfacingsandtheloweredgeofthebackfacing(arrows)asinstep2.
10Pinthefacingtothejacket,rightsidestogether,aligningthecutedges.Matchtheshoulderseamsandallnotches.Attheshoulders,insertapininthewellsoftheseams,tokeepthemaligned.
11Stitchthefacingtothejacket,guidingthecutedgesalongthe5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceguide.Stitchcontinuouslyfromoneloweredge,aroundtheneckline,totheoppositeloweredge;backstitchafewstitchesatthebeginningandend.Removethepinsasyoucometothem,andkeeptheshoulderseamallowancesopenflat.
12Gradetheseamallowancesbytrimmingthejacketnecklineseamallowanceto3/8"(1cm)andthefacingseamallowanceto1/4"(6mm).Clipintothenecklineseamallowanceevery1/2"(1.3cm),clippingupto,butnotthrough,thestitches.Clippingallowsthefacingtoturnsmoothlytotheinsideandlieflat.
13Presstheseamallowancesflat;thenpressthemtowardthefacing.Withtherightsideup,placethefacing(A)underthepresserfoot,sotheneedleisalignedtoenterthefabricjusttotherightoftheseamatthelowerleftfront;thejacket(B)extendsofftheleftofthemachinebed.Keepingtheseamallowanceturnedtowardthefacing(arrows),stitchallaroundthefrontsandnecklineveryclosetotheseam.Youwillbestitchingthroughthefacingandtheseamallowance,butnotthroughthejacket.Thisstep,calledunderstitching,helpsthefacinglieflat.
TIPAlongthecurveoftheneckline,keepthefacinglyingflat,allowingthejacketto“bunchup”totheleftofthecurve.Stitch,followingthecurveofthefacing.Theclippedseamallowancewill“fanout”
underneaththefacing.
14Turnthefacingtotheinside;press.Aligntheshoulderseams,andsmooththemouttothesleeveedge.Pinthefacingtothesleeveedge,insertingthepinsperpendiculartotheedge.Setyourmachineforlongstraightstitches.Bastethefacingstothesleeveedges.
TIPSomejacketpatternshavefacingsthatdonotextendallthewaytothesleeveedge.Aligntheshoulderseamallowances,andstitchintheditch(p.85)tosecurethefacingtothejacket.
15Pinthesleevetothejacket,withrightsidestogether.Alignthecutedges,andmatchthenotches.Youprobablyalsohaveamarkonthesleeveedgethatalignstothejacketshoulderseam.Countthenotchestobesureyouarepinningthecorrectsleeve.Pinfrequentlyfromthejacketside,easingthesleevetofitsmoothly.
16Placethejacketunderthepresserfoot,withthesleeveunderneath.Stitchtheseam,guidingtheedgesalongthe5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceguide.Removethepinsasyoucometothem.
17Checkfromthesleeveside,tobesuretherearenopuckers.Ifthereareany,clipthestitches,usingaseamripper,andremovethestitchesoneithersideofthepuckerfarenoughtosmoothitout;restitch.
18Stitchasecondlineintheseamallowances,1/4"(6mm)fromthefirststitchingline,fromthenotchestoeachend.Trimtheseamallowancesinthisareaclosetothesecondstitchingline.
19Repeatsteps15to18fortheoppositesleeve.Setyourmachineforamedium-length,medium-widthzigzagstitch.Foreachsleeve,finishtheseamallowanceedgestogether,stitchingsothattherightswingoftheneedlejustclearsthefabricedge.Presstheseamallowancestowardthesleeves.
20Pinthejacketfronttothejacketback,rightsidestogether,alongthesideseamsandextendingontotheunderarmsleeveseams.Matchnotches,andalignthesleeveseams.Insertthepinsperpendiculartotheedges.
21Stitch5/8"(1.5cm)seamfromthebottomofonesidecontinuouslytotheendofthesleeve.Keeptheunderarmseamallowancesturnedtowardthesleeve.Repeatfortheoppositeside.
22Finishthesideandunderarmseamallowancesasinstep2.Presstheseamallowancesflat;thenpressthemopen.
TIPPresstheseamallowancesopenoveraseamrolltopreventimprintingtheseamallowanceedgesontotherightsideofthejacketandtomakeiteasiertopressthesleeveseamsopen.
23Finishtheloweredgeofthejacketasinstep2.Repeatfortheloweredgesofthesleeves.Turnundertheremaininghemallowancesonthesleeves,andpress,usingaseamrollorsleeveboard(page18).Slipstitch(page52)thehemstothejacket.
24Placethejacketonyourironingboard,wrongsideup;openthefrontfacings.Turnundertheremaininghemallowanceontheloweredge,includingthefacings;press.
25Unfoldtheloweredge.Turnthejacketover,andturnthefacingtotheoutside,aligningtheloweredges.Pin,keepingthefacingseamallowancesturnedtowardthefacing.Stitchthefacingtothejacket,stitchinginthewellofthepressedfold.Repeatfortheoppositeside.
26Trimthefacingseamallowancetowithin1/4"(6mm)ofthestitches.Trimthecornerdiagonally,towithin1/8"(3mm)ofthecornerstitch.Repeatfortheoppositeside.Turnthefacingstotheinside,andpress.
27Refoldtheremaininghem,andpin.Slipstitchthehemtothejacket.Atthefronts,slipstitchthefacingstothehem.
28Topstitch3/8"(1cm)fromtheedgesalongthefrontsandnecklineofthejacket,ifdesired.Ifyourjackethasbuttons,transferthebuttonholeplacementmarksfromyourpatterntotherightjacketfront.Makebuttonholes,followingthedirectionsinyoursewingmachineowner’smanual.Transferthebuttonplacementmarkstotheleftfront.Sewbuttonsasonpage50or51.
Glossary
BACKSTITCHING.Takingafewbackwardstitchesatthebeginningandendofyourstitchinglinepreventsthestitchesfrompullingout.Themethodforbackstitchingvarieswitheachsewingmachine.Youmayneedtoliftandholdyourstitchlengthlever,pushinandholdabutton,orsimplytouchanicon.Checkyourowner’smanual.
BASTE.Long,easy-to-removestitchesaresewnintothefabrictemporarily,eitherbyhandorbymachine.Hand-bastingstitchesareusedtoholdlayersoffabricandbattingtogetherforquilting.Machine-bastingstitchesareusedtocloseaseambeforeinsertingazipper.Theyarealsousedtogatherasectionoffabricintoasmallerspace.
BIAS.Anydiagonallineintersectingthelengthwiseandcrosswisegrainsoffabricisreferredtoasbias.Whilewovenfabricdoesnotstretchonthelengthwiseandcrosswisegrains,ithasconsiderablestretchonthebias.
CASING.Afabrictunnelissewnintothegarment,oftenatthewaistline,tocarryelasticorcording.
CLIP.Small,closelyspacedcutsaremadeintotheseamallowancesofagarmentorotherproject,usuallyalongacurveorintoacorner.Whentheitemisturnedrightsideout,theseamallowancescanspreadapartandlieflatwheretheyhavebeenclipped.Smallclipsarealsousedformarkingthelocationofnotchesordotsfromthepattern.
COURSES.Correspondingtothecrosswisegrainofawovenfabric,thecoursesofaknitfabricrunperpendiculartotheselvagesandribs.Knitfabricsaremoststretchyinthedirectionofthecourses.
CROSSWISEGRAIN.onwovenfabric,thecrosswisegrainrunsperpendiculartotheselvages.Fabrichasslight“give”inthecrosswisegrain.
DROPLENGTHisthelengthofatableclothfromtheedgeofthetabletotheedgeofthecloth.Itcanbeanywherefrom6"(15cm)tofloor-length.
DROP-SHOULDER.Thisgarmentdesignfeaturemeansthattheseamjoiningthesleevetothefrontandbackisintendedtofalldownofftheedgeoftheshoulder,ratherthanaligntotheshouldercrest.Drop-shoulderstylesarerelaxed,lessfitted,andgenerallyhavemoreroominthearmhole.
EASEreferstotheamountofspacebuiltintoapatternbeyondtheactualbodymeasurements.
EDGESTITCH.Withthemachinesetforstraightstitchingatalengthof2to2.5mmor10stitchesperinch,stitchwithin1/8"(3mm)ofafinishededge.Withmanymachines,thiscanbeachievedbyguidingtheinneredgeoftherightpresserfoottoealongtheouterfinishededge.
FACING.Afabricextensionoradditionthatissewnasabackingtoanotherpieceprotectsrawedgesorseamallowancesfromravelingandgivestheitemaneat,finishedappearance.Forinstance,ajacketfrontandnecklinehaveanouterlayerandanunderlayer,orfacing.
GATHER.Tworowsoflongmachinestitchesaresewnalongaseamline.Whenthebobbinthreadsarepulled,thefabricslidesalongthethreadsintotinytucks.Gathersareusedtofitawidegarmentsectiontoanarrowersectionwhileatthesametimeaddingshaping.
GRADING.Seamallowancesonfacededgesaretrimmedtograduatedwidthstoeliminateabulkyridge.Oftenthegarmentseamallowanceistrimmedto1/4"(6mm)andthefacingseamallowanceistrimmedto1/8"(3mm).
HEMMING.Theouteredgeofaprojectisgivenaneatfinishedappearancebyturningunderandsecuringtherawedgeinoneofseveralmethods.
LENGTHWISEGRAIN.Onwovenfabric,thelengthwisegrainrunsparalleltotheselvages.Fabricsaregenerallystrongerandmorestablealongthelengthwisegrain.
MARK.Itisoftennecessarytogiveyourselftemporaryguidelinesorguidepointsonthefabricforcutting,stitching,ormatchingseams.Therearemanytoolsandmethodsfordoingthis,suchasmarkingpencilsandpens,chalkdispensers,tape,orpins.
MITER.Excessfabricisfoldedoutatanangletoeliminatebulk.Youprobably
miterthecornerswhenyouwrapgifts.
NAP.Somefabricshavedefiniteupanddowndirections,eitherbecauseofasurfacepile,likecorduroyorvelveteen,orbecauseofaone-wayprint.Whenlayingoutapatternonnappedfabric,cutallthepieceswiththetopedgesfacingthesamedirection.
NONDIRECTIONALPRINT.Thedesignprintedonthisfabrichasnodefiniteupanddowndirections,andpatternpiecescanbelaidoutwiththetopedgesfacingineitherdirection.
PATCHPOCKETS.oneoftheeasiestpocketstylestosew,thesearesewntotheoutersurfaceofthegarmentlikeapatch.
PIVOT.Perfectcornersarestitchedbystoppingwiththeneedledowninthefabricattheexactcornerbeforeturning.Tobesurethecornerstitchlocks,turnthehand-wheeluntiltheneedlegoesallthewaydownandjustbeginstorise.Thenraisethepresserfoot,turnthefabric,lowerthepresserfoot,andcontinuestitching.
PRESHRINK.Fabricthatshrinks,especiallynaturalfibers,shrinksmostinthefirstlaundering.Ifyouintendtolaunderyourfinisheditemoccasionally,youshouldwashthefabricbeforecuttingoutthepieces,sotheitemwillnotshrinkafteryoumakeit.Drycleanonlyfabricscanbepreshrunkbysteamingthemwithyouriron.
PRESS.Thisstepisextremelyimportanttothesuccessofyoursewingprojects.Selecttheheatsettingappropriateforyourfabric,andusesteam.Liftandlowertheironinanoverlappingpattern.Donotslidetheirondowntheseam,asthiscancausethefabrictostretchoutofshape,especiallyonthecrosswisegrainorbias.
RIBBINGisaverystretchyknitfabric,usuallywithpronouncedridges.Itisespeciallysuitablefornecksandcuffsonknitgarments,sinceitcaneasilystretchtogooverheadsandhands,yetspringbackintoshapeonceinplace.Mostribbingcomesinmuchnarrowerwidthsthanotherfabricsand,becauseyouuselessofit,itisoftensoldbytheinch(centimeter)ratherthantheyard(meter).
RIBS.Correspondingtothelengthwisegraininwovenfabric,theribsofaknit
fabricrunparalleltotheselvages(ifthereareany).Knitsareusuallymoststableintheribdirection.
SEAM.Twopiecesoffabricareplacedrightsidestogetherandjoinedalongtheedgewithstitches.Afterstitching,therawedgesarehiddenonthewrongside,leavingaclean,smoothlineontherightside.
SEAMALLOWANCE.Narrowexcessfabricliesbetweenthestitchinglineandtherawedges.Thestandardseamallowancewidthforwoven-fabricgarmentsewingis5/8"(1.5cm);thestandardwidthforknit-fabricgarmentsis1/4"(6mm);thestandardwidthforhomedécorsewingis1/2"(1.3cm).Theseamallowancegivestheseamstrengthandensuresthatthestitchescannotbepulledofftherawedges.
SEAMALLOWANCEGUIDE.Mostmachineshaveaseriesoflinesonthethroatplate.Theselinesmarkthedistancefromtheneedle(whereastandardstraightstitchseamwouldbe)tothecutedges.Measuretheselinesonyourmachinetodeterminewheretheedgeofyourfabricshouldbeforthewidthseamyouarestitching.
SEAMRIPPER.Itdoesn’treallyrip.Usethesharppointtoslideunderandcutstitchesoneatatime.Avoidthetemptationtosimplyslidethecuttinghookdowntheseam.Youwillinevitablycutintoyourfabric.Eventhemostexperiencedsewersrelyontheirseamrippers.
SELVAGES.Characteristicofwovenfabrics,thisnarrow,tightlywovenouteredgeshouldbecutaway.Avoidthetemptationtouseitasonesideofacutpiece,asitmaycausetheseamtopuckerandmayshrinkexcessivelywhenlaundered.
TACKING.Shortstationarystitches,sewnbyhandorbymachine,holdtwoormorepiecesoffabrictogetheralittlelessconspicuouslythenarowofstitches.
THREADJAM.Thethreadsbecometangledupinawadontheundersideofthefabricandthemachinegetsstuck.Thebestwaytopreventathreadjamistoholdbothtopandbottomthreadtailstothebackorsideofthepresserfootuntilcompletingthefirstfewstitchesofaseam.Ifathreadjamhappens,DON’TUSEFORCE!Removethepresserfoot,ifyoucan.Snipallthethreadsyoucangetatfromthetopofthethroatplate.Openthebobbincasedoororthroatplate,andsnipanythreadsyoucangetat.Removethebobbin,ifyoucan.Gently
removethefabric.Thoroughlycleanoutthefeeddogandbobbinareabeforereinsertingthebobbinandstartingover.
TOPSTITCHINGisadecorativeandfunctionalstitchinglineplaced1/4"to1"(6mmto2.5cm)fromthefinishededgeofanitem.Thestitchingisdonewiththerightsideoftheitemfacingup.Sometimestopstitchingisdonewithaheavierthreadortwothreadsthroughthemachineneedle,tomakeitmorevisible.
UNDERSTITCHINGisstraightstitchingveryclosetotheseamlinethatconnectsafacingtothegarment,anditkeepsthefacingfromrollingtotheoutsideofthegarment.Aftertheseamallowancesaretrimmed,clipped,andpressedtowardthefacing,stitchfromtherightsideofthefacing.
Index
adjustmentline,32apronwithpockets,103–111
babyblanket,75–79backstitching,124ballpoints,12baste,72,124bastingtape,21beeswax,15betweens,14bias,22,124blanketbinding,21blindcatchstitch,52blindstitch,52bobbins,12threadtension,12,44–45winding,38–39
bodkin,19bodymeasurements,26built-instretchstitch,47button/buttonholeplacementmarks,33buttonholecutter,20buttonssew-through,50shank,51
casing,124chalk,37clip,124corners,68,69courses,124crewels,14
crosswisegrain,124cutting,36,54–55cuttingboards,19cuttinglines,33cuttingtools,17
decoratorfabricscutting,54–55matchingdesigns,56–57
designerfabrics,24designs,matching,56–57detailpositions,33double-foldhems,53,106,107double-needlehems,53double-stitchedseams,47dressmaker’sshears,17drop-shoulder,124
ease,124edgestitch,63,93,124elastics,19elastic-waistpants,89–95elastic-waistskirts,81–87embroideryfoot,13fabriccutting,36,54–55decorator,54–55designer,24fashion,24,25fibercontentof,22folding,34,35knit,23marking,37preparation,25selecting,22shoppingfor,24
woven,22fabricmarkingpens,16,37facing,124fashionfabrics,24,25fibercontent,22foldline,32
gather,124general-purposefoot,13gluesticks,20grading,124grainlines,22,32,54
handhems,52hand-sewingsupplies,14–15handstitches,48–51hemline,33hemming,124hems,52–53double-fold,53,106,107double-needle,53hand,52hemallowance,33,101machine,53markinglength,85
interfacing,19
jackets,unlined,113–123
knife-edgepillows,65–69knitfabrics,23knitskirts,86–87
lengthwisegrain,22,71,124liquidfraypreventer,20
machine-baste,72
machinehems,53marking,37,124markingchalk,16markingtools,16measuringtools,16milliner’sneedles,14miter,125multistitch-zigzagfinish,46
nap,34,125narrowmaskingtape,16narrowzigzagseam,47needlesinserting,38sewingmachine,12threading,41,48
needlethreaders,15needlethreadtension,44–45nondirectionalprint,125notches,33,36
pants,elastic-waist,89–95paper-backedfusibleweb,21patchpockets,125patternscatalogs,27determiningsize,26envelope,28–29features,30–31layout,32–35matching,56–57selecting,26–27symbols,32–33
pillows,knife-edge,65–69pincushions,15pinkingshears,17
pinning,34–35pinswithcoloredballheads,14insertingperpendiculartoedge,42,43quilting,14removing,43straight,14
pivot,125pointturner,20,69preshrink,125press,125presscloth,18presserfeet,13,76pressingham,18pressingtools,18printedon-grain,54,55projects,59–123apronwithpockets,103–111babyblanket,75–79elastic-waistpants,89–95elastic-waistskirts,81–87knife-edgepillows,65–69rectangulartablecloth,61–63T-shirts,97–101unlinedjackets,113–123zipperclosures,71–73
quiltingpins,14
rectangulartablecloth,61–63ribbing,99–100,125ribs,125rotarycutter,17ruler,16
scissors,17
seamallowance,17,36,42,46–47,125seamallowanceguide,42,125seamgauge,16seamlines,33seamripper,17,125seamroll,18seams,125double-stitched,47finishes,46sewing,42–43shoulder,98,99special,47stretch,47
self-adjustingtension,44selvages,22,125sewing,preparationfor,38–41sewingdirections,31sewingmachines,10–11accessories,12–13adjustingtension,45balancingtension,44–45insertingneedles,38needles,12presserfeet,13threadingthemachine,40–41windingthebobbin,38–39
sewingscissors,17sewingsupplies,14–18sew-throughbuttons,50shankbuttons,51sharppoints,12sharps,14shoulderseams,98,99single-foldbiastape,21sizedetermination,26skirts
elastic-waist,81–87knit,86–87
sleeveboard,18slipstitching,49,52special-purposefoot,13steam/sprayiron,18stitchedandpinkedfinish,46stitchesedgestitch,63,93,124handstitches,48–51slipstitching,49,52
stitchintheditch,85,111stitchlength,79straightpins,14stretchgauge,23stretchseams,47supplies,14–18cuttingtools,17hand-sewing,14–15measuringandmarkingtools,16pressingtools,18
symbols,pattern,32–33
tablecloth,61–63tacking,125Teflon-coatedsoleplateguard,18tensionadjusting,45balancing,44–45
thimble,15threadingthemachine,40–41threadjam,126toolscutting,17measuringandmarking,16pressing,18
specialproducts,19–21topstitching,126transparentruler,16transparentT-square,16T-shirts,97–101turnandzigzagfinish,46turntiesrightsideout,109
understitching,126universalpoints,12unlinedjackets,113–123
walkingfoot,13wovenfabrics,22
yardstick,16
zigzagfinish,46,57zipperclosures,71–73zipperfoot,13
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