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Jupplement :N!:£mber r9ne
C]'oods of the 'World IJI M£J
BOOKS
c%emo to the Jubscriber
This Supplement is a bonus, sent to you with the current FOODS OF THE WORLD volume as a way of bringing you several things:
• An article on rice and rice-cooking methods, a subject that will be dealt with, though in less detail, in several volumes. • A recipe for French bread. (French families don't bake bread at home, but a number of readers of The Cooking of Provincial France want to try.) • Several recipes from the France volume and The Cooking of Italy. • A number of suggested menus based on recipes in the French and Italian volumes, The Cooking of Scandinavia and The Cooking of Vienna's Empire. • A condensed shopping guide to some U.S. stores that fill mail orders for certain specialty foods and utensils.
The Supplement is printed in the same page size as the Kitchen Guide, and you may want to keep it handy with the Guide. The recipe pages may be clipped for insertion in your Recipe Booklets.
-The Editors
Cover by Walter Daran; photograph on page 3 by Fred Lyon from Rapho Guillumette; all other illustrations by Matthew Greene.
Jupplement �mber r9ne
BY THE EDITORS OF TIME-LIFE BOOKS
Gontents
A Primer on Rice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Menu Suggestions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
An American Approach to French Bread . . . . . . . . . . 12
Tomato-Cheese Pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Casserole-Roasted Chicken with Vegetables ...... 17
Cheese Pie ( Crostata di Ricotta) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Rabbit Stewed in White Wine Sauce ................ 21
A Shopper's Guide to Foods and Utensils ......... 22
CJ'oods of the 'World
TIME-LIFE BOOKS. NEW YORK
© 1968 Time Inc. All ri�hts reserved. Published simultaneously in Canada. Revised 1974.
rJ[ Primer on CJ<ge-rJ/merica:S Neglected :Food In half the world it is rice that keeps body and soul together-but not in America. In some Asian countries people eat 400 pounds of rice a year, and some eat not much else; in the U.S. the annual per capita consumption is only seven pounds. Despite valiant efforts by the Rice Council and rice processors, Americans are simply too busy eating everything else. Yet rice is good, rice is interesting, rice is important in the cuisines of China, Japan, India, the Middle East, Spain and latin America, and rice will appear repeatedly in Fooos OF THE WoRLD volumes on these and other regions. It appears in this Supplement as the subject of a short course that you can keep for reference in all your future cooking.
Rice around the World like all the staple cereals of the worldwheat, barley, maize, rye, millet-rice (the grass whose latin name is oryza sativa} grew wild long before men learned to cultivate it. Nobody knows whether it was first tamed in India or in China, but it was feeding people in both those regions 5,000 years ago. Eventually the "rice bowl economy " became a way of life throughout the Orient. It feeds families and livestock, it is used as fertilizer and to make wine and other brews. Rice, or the lack of it, has been the cause of wars, uprisings and famines.
From the Orient, seed rice journeyed by ship and caravan over seas and mountains
2
to Europe, the Near East, Africa, Australasia, and ultimately to the Americas. Along the way, rice has become an integral part of the cuisine of many nations-as a cereal, a vegetable, and an ingredient in hundreds of renowned regional dishes. From pilaf to paella, risotto to riz a l'impiratrice, the basic ingredient is rice.
Rice Culture in the United States The arrival of rice in America was purely accidental. And providential, as it happened. In 1694 a sailing vessel with a cargo of rice from Madagascar was blown off its course in an Atlantic storm and sought refuge in the harbor of Charleston, South Carolina. The colonists helped to repair the ship's damage, and in gratitude the captain gave the colonial governor a small packet of seed rice. The crop that grew from it was big enough to supply all of South Carolina and neighboring colonies, and before long a thriving export trade with England grew up.
Today rice farms in the United Statesmostly in Texas, louisiana, California, Arkansas and Mississippi-are probably the most highly mechanized farms in the world. Much of the seeding is done from airplanes, and at harvesttime the fields are drained of water so that machines can roll in to do the picking. Two man-days of labor are all it takes to get a ton and a quarter of rice from an acre; in some nations it takes 400 man-days a season to get a much smaller
Planted by air and harvested by machine, this California rice field is never trod by a farmer.
3
THE RICE GRAIN
The important parts of a grain of rice are: 1-the
hull, or husk, which is inedible; 2-the layer of bran
(brown rice, with this layer still present, is the most nu
tritious kind); 3-the kernel; 4-the germ. In milling
and polishing, both the bran and the germ are removed
from the kernel, and with them some of the protein
content and much of the vitamins and minerals. In "en
riched" rice some vitamins have been restored.
yield. As a result the U. S. ranks fifth among the world's rice producers-and exports most of its crop to 100 other nations.
The Versatile Grain of Rice Of all the cereal grains, rice is the most versatile; it is equally at home as a breakfast food and in soups, salads, main dishes and desserts. Nutritionally, the more than 7,000 known strains of rice are generally alike, though they have wide differences in flavor and texture. Rice is mainly a source of carbohydrates, and one serving (112 cup of plain cooked rice) supplies about 100 calories. It is also a source of iron, B-complex vitamins and calcium; it has only a trace of fat, is low in sodium, and has a low fiber content that renders it 98 per cent digestible. Rice may be cooked in almost any liquid, from water to stocks of all kinds.
4
Shopping for Rice Some imported types of rice from Italy, Spain and India are available in a few larger groceries and food-specialty shops. But in cooking American or foreign rice dishes, the rice that grows in this country serves perfectly well. The leading varieties to be found in the stores are regular milled white rice, brown rice, precooked rice, parboiled rice, wild rice (which comes from another species of grass), and many seasoned rice products, in some of which other foods are premixed.
REGULAR MILLED WHITE RICE, the most popular in sales, is available in extra-long grain, medium and short grain. It is white because the outer coatings have been removed in milling and polishing. Most of the food value has been removed too, and what is left is nine tenths starch. Much of the white rice sold in the U. S. has been enriched to restore vitamin content, just as white-wheat flour is often enriched to replace vitamins removed in milling. Long-grain white rice is four to five times as long as the grain is wide. Grains tend to separate in cooking and are firm, light and fluffy. This type of rice is therefore recommended for poultry and meat dishes, curries, Chinese and Japanese rice dishes, and for use cold in salads. Medium and short grain are plumper, ovalshaped types, and the particles tend to be softer and cling together more readily when cooked. They are used widely for desserts, croquettes, rice molds, and for some pilafs and risottos unless otherwise specified in the recipe. Yield per cup of white rice is about 3 cups of cooked rice.
BROWN RICE is the whole unpolished grain with only the outer hull and some of the bran removed; it is therefore more nutritious than rice with bran and kernel removed. Brown rice has a hearty, nutlike flavor and rougher texture than white rice. Because it is unpolished, brown rice requires a longer cooking period than white rice. This type of rice is excellent for stuffings, or as a vegetable with sauce or gravy, or cooked in broth. And leftover cooked brown rice is a
perfect binder and meat extender in meat loaf. Yield per cup of brown rice is about 3 to 4 cups of cooked rice.
PARBOILED (CONVERTED) RICE, also known as converted white rice, has been put through a special steam-pressure cycle before milling. This process helps to retain much of the vitamin and mineral content of the rice. Parboiled rice is available plain, or combined with herbs, dehydrated bouillon and other seasonings, vegetables, shortening and caramel coloring. Included in this category are numerous kinds of packaged rice dinners, in which rice is combined with other ingredients. Yield per cup of parboiled rice is about 3 to 4 cups of cooked rice.
PRECOOKED RICE is milled white rice that has been cooked and then dehydrated. It is reconstituted by adding hot liquid, removing from heat and allowing to stand for a few moments. No further cooking is required. Yield per cup of precooked rice is about 2 to 3 cups of cooked rice.
WILD RICE may be said to be America's exclusive epicure grain. It is native to the lake district of Minnesota, and its culture traditionally was the special province of the Chippewa Indians of this region. Much of it is still harvested by them, by hand, before being sold to commercial packers who clean, grade and market it. Wild rice has twice the protein of white rice, and fewer calories. Its unique flavor has made it a special favorite in homes, fine restaurants, hotels and clubs. It is exceptionally delicious served with meats, poultry and game, in stuffings, croquettes and as an ingredient in other dishes. It is also packaged in combination with long-grain white rice, dehydrated bouillon and seasonings. It is available at specialty food stores and in "gourmet food " sections of some supermarkets and department stores. The price is high for good reason: The supply is scarce and the entire crop is produced on only about 25,000 acres of marshland. Yield per cup of wild rice is about 3 cups of cooked rice.
LEADIN G U.S. RICES
(Grains shown twice actual size)
WILD RICE
5
rYrCethods of Gooking 1(ge
Just as there is a little logic, but not much, in the idea that Chinese cannot be a very difficult language with 750 million people already speaking it, there is some comfort, but not much, in the idea that rice cookery cannot be very hard to bring off with a billion or so people eating rice every day. Even in Chinese restaurants, where of all places the cooks should have mastered the art, the rice that comes to the table is often a gummy disaster.
There are many ways of cooking rice, and it is worth experimenting to get to know more than one. In some countries rice is always washed before cooking, and in others, never. In some regions it is cooked with salt, but in many Japanese and Chinese recipes salt is omitted because a salty sauce such as soy sauce will be added later.
Don't Overcook It! All the methods described on these pages have been tested in the FooDs OF THE WORLD kitchen. Some are adapted from package directions; whether you are following the package directions or not, it is a good idea to read them. In general, keep in 'mind that rice should not be overcooked; the objective is grains that are tender but firm, whole, separate and free of any starchy residue. The method you choose will depend on your purpose and your taste.
6
BOILING METHOD Referring to full instructions at right:
l Pour the rice into the boiling water in a
thin, slow stream.
2 After cooking, drain in a colander. The rice
can be served now, or kept warm (below).
3 Set the colander containing the rice in the
pan over boiling water, and cover with a kitch
en rowel to keep the rice warm until ready to
serve. Fluff occasionally to avoid oversteaming
the rice at bottom of the colander.
Boiled Rice To serve 4
6 quarts water 3 tablespoons salt 1 cup unwashed long-grain white rice
Bring the water to a boil in a large, heavy pot, add the salt, then pour in the rice in a thin, slow stream so that the water keeps boiling. Lower the heat to moderate and let the rice boil uncovered for about 15 minutes, or until the grains are just tender but still feel slightly firm to the bite. Drain the rice in a colander and serve at once. Or, to keep the rice warm for later use, pour about 3 inches of boiling water into the pot. Suspend the rice-filled colander in the pot, making sure that the bottom of the colander does not touch the water, and place over low heat. Loosely cover the colander with a kitchen rowel to help contain the steam. Fluff the rice occasionally from the bottom, to prevent the rice underneath from oversteaming. Alternatively, transfer the rice to a heated casserole, cover with a kitchen towel to prevent the rice from drying out, and keep warm in a 320° oven until ready to serve. Fluff with a fork before serving.
Steamed Rice To serve 4 1 cup unwashed long-grain white rice 2 cups cold water
Place the rice in a colander or large strainer, set in the sink and rinse it in cold water until the water runs clear. Transfer the rice to a heavy 2- to 3-quart saucepan and add the 2 cups cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat and continue to boil for 2 to 3 minutes, or until holes begin to appear in the surface of the rice through the steam. Cover tightly, reduce to the lowest heat and simmer undisturbed for about 20 minutes. Then remove from the heat but do not uncover, and let the rice stand for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff the nee lightly with a fork to loosen the grains.
STEAMING METHOD Referring to full insrructions at left:
I Use 1 cup rice to 2 cups cold water.
Wash the rice in a colander under the fau
cet until the cold water runs clear.
3 Combine the rice and water in the pan, and
boil over high heat.
4 When holes appear in the surface of the
rice, cover and reduce the heat to low.
5 After cooking, let the rice stand off the
heat, then uncover and Auff it with a fork.
7
Sauteed Rice To serve 4
3 tablespoons butter or vegetable oil 1 cup unwashed long-grain white rice 2 cups boiling water 1 teaspoon salt
In a heavy skillet or shallow flameproof casserole with a cover, heat the butter or oil over medium heat. Add the rice and stir constantly with a wooden spoon for 2 to 3 minutes, or until most of the rice has turned milky and opaque. Do not let the rice brown. Then pour the boiling water over the rice, add the salt and bring back to a boil, still stirring.
Cover the pan tightly and reduce the heat to its lowest point, if necessary using an asbestos mat. Simmer without stirring for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Use a fork to fluff the rice gently before serving. If the rice must wait, loosely cover the casserole with a kitchen towel and keep warm in a 250° oven.
Brown Rice To serve 4
1 teaspoon butter 1 cup brown rice 1 teaspoon salt 2112 cups boiling water
In a heavy skillet or 2- to 3-quart saucepan melt the butter over medium heat. Pour in the rice and stir until the grains are evenly coated. Pour in the boiling water and add the salt. Cover tightly, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 35 to 40 minutes, or until all the liquid is absorbed. Fluff gently with a fork before serving.
Parboiled (Converted) Rice To serve 4
2 cups cold water 1 cup converted rice 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon butter
8
SAUTEING METHOD Referring to full instructions at left:
1 Use 1 cup rice ro 3 tablespoons butter.
2 Heat the butter, add the rice and cook over
medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon
to coat the grains.
3 Pour in 2 cups boiling water, add salt, bring
to a boil again, stirring with a fork. (At this
stage a spoon might crush the grains of rice.)
4 Cover and simmer until water is absorbed.
In a heavy 2- to 3-quart saucepan bring the water, rice, salt and butter to a boil. At once reduce the heat to low, cover tightly and simmer undisturbed for about 25 minutes, or until all the water is absorbed. If a drier rice is desired, remove the cover after cooking and leave on low heat 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally with a fork.
For a softer, moister rice use up to 1/z cup more water.
Precooked Rice To serve 4
2 cups water t!z teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon butter 1 cup precooked rice
In a heavy 2- to 3-quart saucepan bring the water, salt and butter to a boil. Stir in the rice, cover and remove from the heat immediately. Let the rice stand undisturbed for about 5 minutes, then fluff lightly with a fork before serving.
Wild Rice To serve 4
1 tablespoon butter 1 cup wild rice liz teaspoon salt 2 cups boiling water
Melt the butter in a heavy skillet or 2- to 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the rice and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring well until all the grains are coated evenly with the butter. Then pour the boiling water over the rice, add the salt, bring to a boil again, cover tightly and reduce the heat to its lowest point. Cook undisturbed for about 30 minutes, or until the rice has absorbed all the water.
Oven-Baked Method To serve 4
2 cups water 1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon butter 1 cup unwashed long-grain white rice
Preheat the oven to 325 °. In a 2- to 3-quart flameproof casserole, bring the water and salt to a boil over high heat. Pour in the rice, add the butter and stir while the water returns to a boil. Cover tightly and transfer the casserole to the middle of the oven. Bake for about 25 minutes, or until all the water is absorbed.
Double-Boiler Method To serve 4
311z cups milk 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup unwashed long-grain white rice
When rice is cooked in milk it should be prepared in the top of a double boiler. Pour the milk in the top of the double boiler, add the salt and rice and bring to a boil over direct heat. Then set the pot into the lower pan, partially filled with boiling water, cover tightly and reduce the heat to its lowest point. Check occasionally to make sure the water has not cooked away.
Cook for about 40 minutes, or until all the milk is absorbed. Rice cooked this way is usually used in rice-dessert preparations.
Storing Cooked Rice Refrigeration: Leftover cooked rice need not go to waste. It can be stored for a week in the refrigerator. Place the cooled rice in as shallow a container as possible, so that the grains on the bottom will not become soggy. The container should be tightly covered so that the rice will not dry out or absorb flavors from other foods. Freezing: Rice can be frozen for six to eight months, plain, or with any foods suitable for freezing. Place the cooled rice in a freezer container, tightly covered. Reheating: Refrigerated or thawed frozen rice may be steamed over boiling water or, with 2 tablespoons of liquid added for each cup of rice, simmered 4 to 5 minutes in a covered saucepan.
9
r3r(enu Juggestions from :Four Guisines A number of subscribers have asked for some suggested menus. The ones on these pages are created from recipes in four volumes (The Cooking of Provincial France, The Cooking of Italy, The Cooking of Scandinavia and The Cooking of Vienna's Empire} of the FooDs OF THE WoRLD library, complemented by a few basic dishes such as green salad that are in every cook's repertoire. Some recipes will need simple adjustments for the number to be served.
Light Meals
To serve 4 MELON IN SEASON
BACON AND E GG CAKE (Scandinavia} BUTTE R CAKE (Scandinavia)
To serve 6 SUMME R VE GE TABLE SOUP (Scandinavia} VEILED COUNTRY LASS (Scandinavia}
To serve 6 BE RGE N FISH SOUP (Scandinavia} SOUR CREAM WAFFLE S (Scandinavia)
To serve 8 SALMON MARINATE D IN DILL (Scandinavia) PICKLED CUCUMBE R SALAD (Scandinavia} SWEDISH PANCAKES WITH LINGONBE RRIES
(Scandinavia)
To serve 4 EGG NOODLES WITH BUTTE R AND CHEESE
(Italy} SA LADE NI<;OISE (France)
To serve 6 COLD BRAISED VEAL WITH TUNA SAUCE (Italy) TOMATO SALAD (Italy} CHILLED CHOCOLATE LOAF (Italy)
Dinners
To serve 4 MARINATED MUSHROOMS (France} SAUTEED CHICKEN WITH CALVADOS AND
CREAM SAUCE (France) STEAMED RICE (Supplement No. 1)
10
GRE E N SALAD
PEARS POACHED IN RE D WINE (France)
To serve 6 ROAST LE G OF LAMB (France) SCALLOPED POTATOES WITH CHE ESE (France} GRE E N STRING BE ANS (France} CHE RRY CAKE (France}
To serve 4 CHILLED ARTICHOKES WITH MAYONNAISE
(France} BROILED SALMON STEAKS WITH GARLIC AND
HE RB BUTTE R (France) BUTTER-STE AME D NEW POTATOES
(Scandinavia} CHOCOLATE MOUSSE (France)
To serve 6 BRAISED PORK CHOPS WITH CRE AM AND
MUSTARD SAUCE (France) BRAISED LE E KS (France) OVEN-BROWNED POTATO WE DGES
(Scandinavia} LEMON ICE {Italy)
To serve 6 COLD EGGPLANT APPETIZE R (Italy} CANNELLONI (Italy) GRE E N SALAD
PEACHES STUFFED WITH MACAROONS (Italy)
To serve 6 BAKED STUFFED ARTICHOKES (Italy) BROILED SHRIMP WITH GARLIC BUTTE R (Italy) BRAISED RICE AND PE AS (Italy) SICILIAN CAKE WITH CHOCOLATE FROSTING
(Italy)
To serve 6-8 PROSCIUTTO ( Jtafy, p. 32) AND MELON
BRAISED VEAL SHANKS (Italy) BRAISED RICE WITH SAFFRON (Italy} RAW MUSHROOM SALAD (Italy) ORANGE ICE (Italy)
To serve 4 BROILED DEVILED CHICKEN (Italy) BOILED RICE WITH LEMON (Italy} BRAISED PEAS WITH PROSCIUTTO (Italy) PEARS STUFFED WITH GORGONZOLA CHE E SE
(Italy)
To serve 4 FRESH HAM BRAISED IN MARSALA (Italy) GLAZED ONIONS (France) SMALL SPINACH DUMPLINGS (Italy) MAZARIN CAKE (Scandinavia)
To serve 6 ASSORTED ANTIPASTI (Italy, p. 32) MEAT LOAF IN SOUR-CREAM PASTRY
(Scandinavia) FRESH PEAS BRAISED WITH ONIONS
AND LETTUCE (France) CARAMEL CUSTARD (France)
To serve 4-6 FRENCH ONION SOUP (France) BAKED STUFFED PIKE WITH CUCUMBE RS AND
RICE (Scandinavia) GREEN SALAD WITH FRE NCH OIL AND VINEGAR
DRESSING (France) APRICOT PANCAKES ( Vienna's Empire)
To serve 4-6 KETTLE GOULASH ( Vienna's Empire} HOMEMADE EGG NOODLES (Italy) GREEN SALAD WITH FRE NCH OIL AND VINE GAR
DRESSING (France) APPLE STRUDEL ( Vienna's Empire)
To serve 4 VIENNESE FRIE D CHICKEN ( Vienna's Empire) POTATOES PAPRIKA ( Vienna's Empire} BOILED ASPARAGUS (France) LINZE R CAKE ( Vienna's Empire)
To serve 4-6 VEAL AND PORK BARBECUE ( Vienna's Empire} STEAMED RICE (Supplement No. 1)
GREEN SALAD WITH LEMON AND SOUR CREAM
DRESSING ( Vienna's Empire) SPONGECAKE WITH CHE RRIES
( Vienna's Empire)
To serve 4 SPINACH SOUP (Scandinavia) G RILLED MARINATED MACKE REL (Scandinavia) TOMATO BUTTE R (Scandinavia) BUTTE R-STEAME D NEW POTATOES
(Scandinavia) ASSORTED CHE ESES AND CRISP
BREADS (Scandinavia, pp. 38, 95)
To serve 6 LAMB IN DILL SAUCE (Scandinavia) STEAME D RICE (Supplement No. 1) GREEN SALAD
BAKED APPLE HALVES WITH ALMOND TOPPING
(Scandinavia)
To serve 6 PORK LOIN STUFFED WITH APPLES AND P RUNE S
(Scandinavia) OVEN-BROWNED POTATO WEDGES
(Scandinavia) DANISH CHEE SE AND CRISP BREAD
(Scandinavia, pp. 38, 95)
To serve 6-8 ROYAL POT ROAST (Scandinavia) RED CURRANT JE LLY
LACY POTATO PANCAKES WITH CHIVES
(Scandinavia) CREAMY LAYE R CAKE (Scandinavia)
To serve 4 MARINATED E GGPLANT (Scandinavia) VEAL CUTLETS ( Vienna's Empire} HOMEMADE E GG NOODLES (Italy) BROCCOLI BRAISED IN WHITE WINE (Italy) RED FRUIT PUDDING WITH CREAM
(Scandinavia)
To serve 6-8 GLASSBLOWE R
's HE R RING (Scandinavia)
BOILED LAMB WITH MARJORAM SAUCE
( Vienna's Empire) HOT fRENCH BREAD (Supplement No. 1) STRAWBE RRIE S AND CREAM
11
rJ[n rJ[merican Jpproach to :French Cf3read "A good source of the exactly right, crisp, honest loaf is hard to locate, " writes M.F.K. Fisher in The Cooking of Provincial France, "but once found, it is worth that trip across town .... A Frenchman's whole meal can hinge upon it. .. and, in fact, his existence, at least by his own reckoning. "
Vital as bread is to the French family's way of life, the French do not bake it at home but buy it from the bakery, which is one reason there is no bread recipe in The Cooking of Provincial France. Also, the "crisp and honest loaf "-which is just as desirable to many Americans as it is to the Frenchhas been most difficult to achieve with American ingredients and equipment.
Julia Child Has Done It One night at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Paul Child in Cambridge, Massachusetts, bread was passed to a FooDs OF THE WORLD editor. "Try it, " said Julia Child, who is our consultant on the French volume. "It's pretty good-but I've gone th�ough 200 pounds of flour and it isn't quite good enough yet." The editor thought it was better than pretty good-certainly crisp enough and honest enough to impress him.
A few weeks later, Newsweek reported: "After 200 ... bakings, 250 pounds of flour and five months of toil-Voila! Julia Child has done it. She has made French bread out of bleached American flour."
Her recipe is her own. The recipe on the opposite page was adapted in the FooDs OF THE WORLD kitchen from a number of others, including one developed by Eugene Schertz of the Arthur D. Little laboratories in Cambridge. Mr. Schertz spent three years in France with the U.S. Army. Quartermaster Corps, became devoted to French bread, and brought back a recipe to work on that would succeed with American ingredients.
About the Recipe The recipe is as nearly foolproof as repeated testing and adjustments could make it. In appearance the bread resembles the loaves
1 2
of petit pain ordinaire shown on page 82 of the Provincial France volume. In taste and texture, if all g_oes well, you will have good bread. But before you start kneading dough, remember the realities of the situation. First, you will be using American commercial yeast to make the dough rise. This is a reliable, standardized product with a low and carefully controlled bacterial content. Many French bakers still use the traditional sourdough to make their dough rise; it is a small piece of fermented dough with yeast in it, and with a high bacterial content. The yeast is the leavening agent; the bacteria produce acids that give the bread its distinctive sour flavor. From each day's batch of dough the baker pinches off a piece to use as a "starter " next day.
Secortd, you will be using American flour: either unbleached bread flour, though this may be hard to come by, or all-purpose flour, the formulas for many brands of which are different in various parts of the country. The bread flour is preferred because it is milled from so-called hard wheat and has a gluten content of up to 12 per cent. Gluten is the elastic protein that helps dough to rise well. (In France as in America, flour from soft wheat, lower in gluten, is used for pastries.)
Finally, you will be usmg the oven in your kitchen range. The recipe calls for putting a pan of hot water in the bottom of
the oven, the purpose being to make steam, which helps the bread crust to become crisp and brown. At best this is a homemade substitute for the commercial baker's oven, into which steam can be introduced in controllable amounts. (Also, many French bakers still use brick ovens, which hold their heat more evenly than a metal oven can.)
So-consider yourself warned, but not intimidated. At worst you will find breadbaking an absorbing way to spend an afternoon-and at best, after due trial and error, you will find that (even though most French housewives do not and probably cannot ) you, too, can bake a great loaf of bread.
(
II
'I
French Bread
To make three 15-inch loaves
114 cup lukewarm water 1 package active dry yeast 1 teaspoon sugar 1112 cups milk 112 cup water 2 teaspoons salt
5112 cups unbleached bread flour or
all-purpose flour 112 cup white or yellow cornmeal
WATER-SALT SOLUTION FOR
BRUSHING
112 cup water 112 teaspoon salt
Sprinkle the yeast into the 1/4 cup of lukewarm ( 100° to 1 10°) water. Add the teaspoon of sugar and stir until thoroughly dissolved. Place the mixture in a warm, draft-free place-such as an unlighted oven-for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the yeast has begun to bubble and has almost doubled in volume. (If the yeast does not bubble and expand, it is inactive. Repeat the process again with fresh yeast.)
Meanwhile, combine the milk, l/2 cup of water and 2 teaspoons of salt in a small saucepan and heat to lukewarm. Pour the mixture into a large mixing bowl, stir in the yeast solution, then slowly add 5 cups of the flour about 1iz cup at a time, mixing with a large spoon as you proceed. Continue to stir until the mixture becomes a medium-firm dough that can be lifted up in a moist, solid mass. Now, knead it on a lightly floured surface by pressing it down, pushing it forward, then turning it back upon itself. Repeat this kneading process for at least 10 minutes, sprinkling the dough every few minutes with small handfuls of the reserved 1iz cup of flour to prevent the dough from sticking to the board. When the dough is smooth and elastic, place it in a large, lightly buttered bowl, dust it with a tablespoon of flour and cover the bowl loosely with a kitchen towel. Let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free place for about 1liz hours, or until the dough doubles in bulk and. springs back slowly when gently poked with a finger. Then punch the dough down with one blow of your fist to reduce it to its original volume. Cover with a towel and let it rise again for about 45 minutes, or until it has doubled in volume.
Divide the dough into 3 equal portions. On a lightly floured surface, mold and shape each portion into a slightly tapered loaf about 2 inches in diameter and about 15 inches long. Scatter the 1iz cup of cornmeal over the surface of a large jelly-roll pan or cookie sheet and on it place the loaves 2 inches apart. With a very sharp knife make diagonal slashes about 112 inch deep at 2-inch intervals on the top of each loaf.
Then dissolve the salt in liz cup of water and, with a pastry . brush,
Continued on next page 13
coat the bread lightly with the solution. Let the loaves rise for about an hour in a warm, draft-free place until they double in bulk.
Preheat the oven to 400° and set a large, shallow roasting pan filled with boiling water on the oven floor. Bake the bread on the shelf directly above the water for 15 minutes. Then reduce the heat to 35 0°, brush the bread with the water-salt solution, and after 10 minutes brush the loaves again. Now bake the bread about 20 minutes longer, or until the loaves are crisp and golden. Remove the bread from the baking sheet and let it cool on a cake rack before serving.
NOTE: All-purpose flour does not produce a bread with as crisp a crust or as characteristic a French-bread texture as unbleached bread flour does. If you are unable to find unbleached bread flour in your local supermarkets or grocery stores, you may be able to purchase it from a baker's supply house or from a bakery.
14
�I
Tarte ala Tomate TOMATO-CHEESE PIE
To make an 8- to 9-inch pie
PATE BRISflE (pastry dough or pie crust)
6 tablespoons chilled butter, cut in 1/4-inch bits
2 tablespoons chilled vegetable shortening
ll/2 cups all-purpose flour l/4 teaspoon salt 3 to 5 tablespoons ice water
PATE BRISEE: In a large, chilled mixing bowl, combine butter, vegetable shortening, flour and salt. Working quickly, use your fingertips to rub the flour and fat together until they blend and look like flakes of coarse meal. Pour 3 tablespoons of ice water over the mixture all at once, toss together lightly and gather the dough into a ball. If the dough seems crumbly, add up to 2 tablespoons more ice water by drops. Dust the pastry with a little flour and wrap it in wax paper or a plastic bag. Refrigerate it for at least 3 hours, or until it is firm.
Remove the pastry from the refrigerator 5 minutes before rolling it. If it seems resistant and hard, tap it all over with a rolling pin. Place the ball on a floured board or table and, with the heel of one hand, press it into a flat circle about 1 inch thick. Dust a little flour over and under it and roll it out-from the center to within an inch of the far edge. Lift the dough and turn it clockwise, about the space of two hours on a clock; roll again from the center to the far edge. Repeat-lifting, turning, rolling-until the circle is about 1/s inch thick and 11 or 12 inches across. If the pastry sticks to the board or table, lift it gently with a metal spatula and sprinkle a little flour under it.
Butter the bottom and sides of an 8- to 9-inch false-bottomed quiche or cake pan no more than 11/4 inches deep. Roll the pastry over the pin and unroll it over the pan, or drape the pastry over the rolling pin, lift it up and unfold it over the pan. Gently press the pastry into the bottom and around the sides of the pan, being careful not to stretch it. Roll the pin over the rim of the pan, pressing down hard to trim off the excess pastry. With a fork, prick the bottom of the pastry all over, trying not to pierce all the way through. Chill for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 400°. To keep the bottom of the pastry from puffing up, spread a sheet of buttered aluminum foil across the pan and press it gently into the edges to support the sides of the pastry as it bakes. Bake in the middle of the oven for 10 minutes, then remove the foil. Prick the pastry again, then return it to the oven for 3 minutes, or until it starts to shrink from the sides of the pan and begins to brown. Remove it from the oven and set it on a wire cake rack to cool.
Continued on next page 15
TOMATO-CHEESE FILLING
2 or 3 large tomatoes, cut in 1/2-inch slices
1 pound Gruyere cheese, cut in thin slices
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon dried basil or 1 tablespoon
finely cut fresh basil 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons melted butter
TOMATO-CHEESE FILLING: Sprinkle the tomato slices generously with salt, and place them on a cake rack to drain for about 112 hour.
Preheat the oven to 3 75 o. Arrange the cheese slices, slightly overlapping, in the bottom of the pastry shell, and place the drained tomato slices side by side on top. Sprinkle with a few grindings of black pepper, the basil
and the grated Parmesan cheese. Dribble the melted butter over the tomatoes and bake in the upper third of the oven for 25 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the top of the pie is lightly browned. Serve hot or warm.
NOTE: An 8-inch-square baking dish may be used. If you wish to make a larger pie, double all ingredients and use an 1 1-inch-squa�e baking dish or a 12-inch false-bottomed quiche or cake pan.
16
Poulet en Cocotte Bonne Femme
CASSEROLE-ROASTED CHICKEN WITH VEGETABLES
To serve 4
A 3112- to 4-pound roasting chicken 4 tablespoons soft butter 1/4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 112 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled 1/4 pound salt pork, diced 2 cups water 5 tablespoons butter 16 peeled white onions, about 1 inch
in diameter 6 peeled carrots, cut in 2-inch
cylinders or olive shapes 16 one-inch potato balls, or potatoes
cut in 2-inch olive shapes Salt Freshly ground black pepper Bouquet garni made of 4 parsley
sprigs and 1 bay leaf, tied together
Preheat the oven to 350°. Wash the chicken quickly under cold running water and dry it thoroughly inside and out with paper towels. Cream 2 tablespoons of soft butter until it is fluffy, and beat in the garlic and thyme. Spread the seasoned butter inside the chicken. Truss the chicken and rub the outside with the remaining 2 tablespoons of soft butter.
Blanch the salt pork dice by simmering them in 2 cups of water for 5 minutes; drain on paper towels and pat dry. In a heayy, enameled oval casserole just large enough to hold the chicken comfortably, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over moderate heat and in it brown the pork dice, stirring them or shaking the casserole frequently, until they are crisp and golden. Remove them with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on paper towels. In the rendered fat left in the casserole, brown the chicken on all sides. Remove from heat and pour off all but a thin film of fat from the casserole. Return the chicken and the browned pork dice to it and set aside.
In a heavy 10- to 12-inch skillet, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat and in it cook the onions, carrots, and potatoes, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, or until coated with butter and lightly colored. Remove the vegetables and arrange around the chicken. Season with salt and pepper, add the bouquet garni, and cover the casserole. If the cover isn't snug, drape a piece of foil over the chicken before covering it.
On top of the stove, heat the casserole until the fat begins to splutter. Cook the chicken on the middle shelf of the oven, basting it every 20 minutes with the juices that will accumulate in the casserole. After 11/4 hours, start testing the chicken by lifting it with a wooden spoon inserted in its tail opening. When the juices that run out are yellow, it is done.
To serve, transfer the chicken to a heated platter and arrange the vegetables attractively around it. Discard the bouquet garni and skim as much surface fat as possible from the sauce left in the casserole. Taste the sauce and correct the seasoning. The chicken may be carved in the kitchen or at the table. Serve the sauce separately.
From The Cook1ng of Provincial France. 17
18
Crostata di Ricotta CHEESE PIE
To make 1 nine-inch pie
PASTA FROLLA
2 cups unsifted all-purpose flour 12 tablespoons lard or butter,
at room temperature
but not soft 4 egg yolks 114 cup sugar 3 tablespoons dry Marsala 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon peel 112 teaspoon salt
PASTA FROLLA (pastry crust): In a large mixing bowl, make a well in the center of 2 cups of flour. Drop into it the butter (or lard), egg yolks, sugar, Marsala, lemon peel and salt. With your fingertips, mix the ingredients together, incorporating as much flour as you can. With the heels of your hands, work in the rest of the flour until the dough is smooth and can be gathered into a ball. Do not, however, knead the dough or work it any more than necessary. (If you have an electric mixer with a paddle attachment, all of the ingredients can be placed in the bowl at once and mixed at low speed until
they are just combined.) The dough can be rolled out at once, but if it seems at all oily, refrigerate it for about 1 hour, or until it is firm but not hard.
Break off about 1/4 of the dough, dust lightly with flour and cover with wax paper or plastic wrap; set aside in the refrigerator. Reshape the rest of the dough into a ball and place on a lightly floured board or pastry cloth. With the heel of your hand, flatten the ball into a disk about 1 inch thick. Dust a little flour over both sides of the disk to prevent the dough from sticking, and begin rolling it out-starting from the center and rolling to within an inch of the far edge. Gently lift the dough, turn clockwise, and roll out again from the center to the far edge. Repeat lifting, turning and rolling until the disk is about 1/s inch thick and at least 11 inches across. If the dough sticks to the board or cloth while you are rolling it out, lift it gently with a wide metal spatula and sprinkle a little flour under it.
Lightly butter the bottom and sides of a 9-by-1112-inch spring-form or false-bottom cake pan. Then, starting at the nearest edge of the circle, lift the pastry and drape it over the rolling pin. Place the pin in the middle of the buttered pan, and unfold the pastry over it, leaving some slack in the center. Gently press the pastry into the bottom and around the sides of the pan, taking care not to stretch it. Roll the pin over the rim of the pan, pressing down hard to trim off the excess pastry around the top.
Unwrap the remaining pastry, place it on a lightly floured board or cloth, flatten it with the heel of your hand and roll it into a rectangle about 12 inches long. With a pastry wheel or sharp knife, cut the rectangle into long, even strips about 1/z inch wide.
Contintted on next page 19
RICOTTA FILLING
5 cups ricotta cheese (21/2 pounds) , or whole-curd cottage cheese rubbed through a coarse sieve
'12 cup sugar 1 tablespoon flour '12 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon freshly grated orange peel 4 egg yolks
1 tablespoon white raisins, rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon diced candied orange peel
1 tablespoon diced candied citron 2 tablespoons slivered blanched
almonds or pine nuts 1 egg white mixed with 1 tablespoon
water
RICOTTA FILLING: Preheat the oven to 350°. Combine thericotta cheese with 112 cup of sugar, 1 tablespoon flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, the vanilla, grated orange peel and egg yolks, and beat until they are thoroughly mixed. Stir in the raisins and the candied orange peel and citron. Spoon this filling into the pastry shell, spreading it evenly with a rubber spatula. Sprinkle the top
with slivered almonds or pine nuts, then weave or crisscross the pastry strips across the pie to make a lattice design. Brush the strips lightly with the
egg-white-and-water mixture. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 1 to 11/4 hours, or until the crust is golden and the filling is firm.
Remove the pie from the oven and set it on a large jar or coffee can. Then slide off the outside rim of the pan. Cool the pie on a wire cake rack, leaving the bottom disk of the pan in place. If you would prefer to remove the disk before serving, wait until the pie is cool, loosen the bottom crust with a wide metal spatula, and carefully slide the pie onto a round serving plate.
From The Cooking of lralr
20
Saute de Lapin au Vin Blanc RABBIT STEWED IN WHITE WINE SAUCE
To serve 4 to 6
A 2112- to 3-pound fresh rabbit or defrosted frozen rabbit, cut in serving pieces
1 cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1/4 cup olive oil 1 onion, thinly sliced 112 teaspoon dried thyme 1 bay leaf, crumbled 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh
parsley
112 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 1/4 pound lean salt pork, diced 2 cups water 1 tablespoon butter 12 to 16 peeled white onions, about
1 inch in diameter 3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots 112 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 2 tablespoons flour 1112 cups beef stock, fresh or canned Bouquet garni made of 4 parsley
sprigs and 1 bay leaf, tied together
Wash the rabbit under running water and dry it with paper towels. Combine 112 cup of the wine, 1 tablespoon wine vinegar, olive oil, the sliced onion, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, salt and pepper for the marinade in a shallow baking dish or casserole. Marinate the rabbit 6 hours at room temperature, 12 to 24 hours refrigerated. Turn the pieces every few hours.
Simmer the pork dice in 2 cups of water for 5 minutes; drain and pat dry with paper towels. In a heavy 10- to 12-inch skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of butter over moderate heat and in it brown the pork dice until they are crisp and golden. Set the pork aside and pour most of the fat into a bowl, leaving just a film on the bottom of the skillet. Brown the onions in the fat left in the skillet, then transfer them to a bowl.
Remove the rabbit from the marinade and dry it with paper towels. Reserve the marinade. Brown the rabbit in the skillet, adding more fat as needed, then transfer the pieces to a heavy flameproof 2- to 3-quart casserole. Pour off almost all the fat from the skillet, add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring over low heat 1 minute. Remove from heat and pour in the remaining 112 cup wine and stock, stirring constantly. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the sauce thickens. Then pour it over the rabbit and add the bouquet garni, reserved marinade and browned pork dice. Preheat the oven to 35 0°.
Bring the stew to a boil on top of the stove, cover, and cook on the middle shelf of the oven for 40 minutes. Gently stir in the onions and cook for another 20 minutes, or until the rabbit is tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Just before serving, stir the remaining 1 tablespoon of vinegar into the sauce and taste for seasoning. Serve the stew directly from the casserole.
From The Cooking of Provincial France. 21
J[ Jhoppers Guide to :Food and Utensils
The stores l i sted on these pages are g rouped by cities and by four cuisines : French, I talian, Scandinavian and Hungarian. Al l are firms that accept mail orders. Some of the i nformation in this guide has appeared i n The Cooking of Provincial France and The Cooking of Italy.
French Foodstuffs
ATLANTA, GA.
Davison ' s Gourmet Shop 1 80 Peachtree St . N . W. 30303
BOSTON, MASS.
Cardul lo ' s Gourmet Shop 6 Brattle St., Cambridge 02 1 38
Jordan Marsh 450 Washington St. 02 1 1 1
Malben 's Fruit Co. ! 5 8 Massachusetts Ave. 02 1 1 5
S. S. Pierce 1 3 3 Brookline Ave. 02 1 1 5 1 44 Tremont St. 02 1 1 1
CEDAR RAPIDS, lOW A
Kill ian ' s 20 1 3 rd A v e . S . E . 5 240 1
Nelson 's Meat and Delicatessen 3 2 0 1 1 st Ave. S . E . 5240 1
CH ICAGO, ILL.
The Epicure Shop Carson Pirie Scott & Co. 1 S. State St. 60603
The Pantry Marshall Field & Co. 1 1 1 N. State St. 60602
Stop and Shop 1 6 W. Washington Blvd. 60602
DALLAS, TEXAS
The Epicure Shop Neiman-Marcus Main at E rvay 7520 1
22
DENVER, COLO.
American Tea, Coffee and Spice Co. ! 5 1 ! Champa St . 80202
Cassi d y ' s Delicatessen 2406 E. 3rd Ave. 802 2 3
May-D&F Gourmet Shop 16th and Tremont Place 80202
DETROIT, MICH.
J . L . H ud son 1 206 Woodward 48226
HOUSTON, TEXAS
Cheese Market of Houston 1 2 8 5 0 Memorial Drive 77024
E uropean Import Store (9 1 0 Preston St . ) P .O. Box 2205 7700 1
Foley ' s Gourmet Shop 1 1 00 Trav is 77002
IND IANAPOLIS, INDIANA
L .S . Ayres & Co. 1 W. Washington St. 46204
JACKSON VILLE, FLA.
Gardro ' s Gourmet Shop 3566 St. Johns Ave. 3 2 205
May- Cohen ' s 1 1 7 W. Duval S t . 3 2 202
L O S ANGELES, CALIF.
Jurgensen ' s Grocery Co. 409 N . Beverly Drive Beverly Hi l l s 902 1 0 107 1 Glendon Ave. Westwood Vil lage 90024
MIAMI, FLA.
Burdine ' s 2 2 E . Flagler S t . 3 3 1 3 1
The Cheese Shop 76 M iracle Mile Coral Gables 3 3 1 34
Jordan Marsh 1 5 0 1 Biscayne Blvd . 3 3 1 3 2
MONTREAL, QUE., CANADA
Dionne Fi ls & Cie 1 2 2 1 St . Catherine St . W.
Eaton ' s Gourmet Department 677 St. Catherine St. W.
NEW ORLEANS, LA.
D . H . Holmes 8 1 9 Canal St. 70 1 1 2
M . Langen stein & Sons 1 3 30 Arabella 70 1 1 5
NEW YORK, N.Y.
Bloomingdale ' s Gourmet Dept. Lexington at 59th St . 10022
Charles & Co. 340 Madi son Ave. 1 00 1 7
Cheese o f All Nations 1 5 3 Chambers St . 1 0007
Mai son Glass 5 2 E. 58th St. 1 0022
Maryland Gourmet Mart 4 1 4 Amsterdam Ave. 1 0024
OMAHA, NEBRASKA
Brandei s !6th and Douglas 68 1 02
Ki lpatrick ' s 1 509 Doug las 68 102
PHILADELPH IA, PA.
Gimbels Department Store 9th and Market Sts. 1 9 1 0 7
J o h n Wanamaker 1 3th and Market Sts. 1 9 1 02
PITTSBURGH, PA.
Kaufmann ' s Department Store 400 Fifth Ave. 1 5 2 1 9
ST. LOUIS, MO.
Heidi ' s Around the World Foods 1 149 S. Brentwood Blvd. 63 1 1 7
Paul ' s Cheese Stall 1 16 Union Market 700 North 6th St. 6 3 1 0 1
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF.
Ci cy of Paris Union Square 94 1 3 2
Goldberg Bowen 3 14 Sutter 94 108
Simon Brothers 2829 California St. 94 1 1 5
SEATTLE, WASH.
Frederick & Nelson Fifth and Pine 98 1 0 1
Northwest Gourmet Center 1 208 Lake St., Renton 980 5 5
WASHINGTON, D.C.
Wine and Cheese Shop 14 1 3 Wi sconsin Ave. N.W. 20007
TORONTO, CANADA
The Old World Cheese Shop 809 Yonge St . , Toronto 5
Eaton ' s Hostess Shop 190 Yonge St. , Toronto 1
Italian Foodstuffs
ATLANTA, GA.
Davi son ' s Gourmet Shop 180 Peachtree St. N . W. 30303
BALTIMORE, MD.
Pastore ' s Grocery Store 1 007 E. Lombard St. 2 1 202
Sorrento Grocery 72 1 2 Hartford Rd . 2 1 2 1 4
BOSTON, MASS.
Cardullo ' s Gourmet Shop 6 Brattle St . , Cambridge 02 1 38
BURLINGTON, VT.
lzzo Market 77 Pearl St. 0540 1
Merola ' s Grocery Store 1 563 North Ave. 0540 1
CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA
Nelson ' s Meat and Delicatessen 3201 1 st Ave. S . E . 5 2401
Swiss Colony Lindale Plaza 5 2402
CINCINNATI, OHIO
Brun o ' s Food s 4970 G lenway Ave. 4 5 2 3 8
LaRosa ' s 2 4 1 5 Boudinot Ave. 4 5 2 3 8
DALLAS, TEXAS
Cappello ' s 5 3 2 8 Lemmon Ave. 75 209
The Epicure Shop Neiman- Marcus Main at Ervay 7 5 2 0 1
S i m o n David 7 1 1 7 Inwood Rd . 7 5 209
DENVER, COLO.
P.C . Mancinell i 3300 Osage St. 802 1 1
Pinel l i & Son 1 409 1 5 th St. 80202
DETROIT, MICH.
Lombardi Food Co. 605 East Ten Mile Road Royal Oak 48220
Vendetti & Sons 16508 Woodward Ave. High land Park 48203
HOUSTON, TEXAS
Antone ' s Import Co. (807 Taft) P . O . Box 3 3 5 2 7700 1
E uropean Import Store (910 Preston St . ) P. 0. Box 2 205 7700 1
INDIANA POLIS, INDIANA
Guy Montani Fine Food s 1 2 West 27th St. 46208
JACKSONVILLE, FLA.
Gus Panos' Grocery 5 1 5 N . Main Sr. 32202
Joseph Ass i Bakery & Delicatessen 3 3 16 Beach Blvd. 3 2 207
LOS ANGELES, CALIF.
Fazzi Fancy Foods 1 5 38 North Western Ave. 900 2 7
R. Fazzi a n d Co. 225 S . Spring St. 900 1 2
MEMPHIS, TENN.
Barzizza Bros. Internati onal Trade Center 3 5 1 South Front St . 38 1 0 3
MIAMI, FLORIDA
Di Puma's I tal ian Supermarket and Pastry Shop 16385 West Dixie Highway 3 3 1 60
MONTREAL, QUE., CANADA
Dionne Fi ls & Cie 1 2 2 1 Sr . Catherine St . W.
NEW ORLEANS, LA.
Central Grocery Co. 92 3 Decatur St . 70 1 1 6
Progress Grocery Co. 9 1 5 Decatur St . 70 1 1 6
NEW YORK, N.Y.
Bloomi ngdale ' s Gourmet Shop Lexington at 59th St . 10022
Cheese of Al l Nations 1 5 3 Chambers St. 1 0007
Macy ' s Gourmet Shop Herald Square 1 0036
Manganaro Food s 488 Ninth Ave. 100 1 8
Trinacria Importing Co. 4 1 5 Third Ave. 1 00 1 6
PHILADELPHIA, PA.
Lucio Mancuso & Son 1 902 East Passyunk Ave. 1 9 1 48
PHOENIX, ARIZ.
Capitan o ' s 42 1 N . 7 t h Ave. 8500 1 7 1 24 N. 3 5 th Ave. 8502 1
PITTSBURGH, PA.
Savarese Co. 20 1 1 Penn Avenue 1 5 2 2 2
PORTLAND, ORE.
Pieri ' s 3 8 2 4 S . E . Powell Blvd. 97202
S T . LOUIS, MO.
Heidi ' s Around the World Foods 1 149 S . Brentwood Blvd. 63 1 1 7
l talo-A merican I mporting Co. 5 1 2 Frankl in Ave. 63 1 0 1
Volpi I tal ian Foods, Inc . 6256 Daggett Ave. 6 3 1 10
SAN FRANCISCO , CALIF.
Simon Brothers 2829 California St . 94 1 1 5
SEATTLE, WASH .
Delaurenti and Co. Stall 5, Lower Floor Pike Place Market 98 1 0 1
VANCOUVER, B . C . , CAN ADA
Girardi E n terpri ses 2 5 65 E. H astings
Marotto ' s I talian Delicatessen 1625 Renfrew
2 3
WASHINGTON, D.C.
Wine and Cheese Shop 1 4 1 3 Wisconsin Ave. N.W. 2 0007
Scandinavian Foodstuffs
ALBUQUERQUE, N.M.
Fremon t ' s Fine Food s 566 Coronado Cntr. N . E . 87 1 10
ATLANTA, GA.
Davi son ' s Gourmet Shop 180 Peachtree St. N . W . 30303
BOSTON, MASS.
Cardul lo 's Gourmet Shop 6 Brattle St. , Cambridge 02 1 38
Jordan Marsh 450 Washington St. 02 1 1 1
S. S. Pierce 1 3 3 Brookline Ave. 02 1 1 5 144 Tremont St . 02 1 1 1
CEDAR RAPIDS, lOW A
Kill ian ' s 201 3 r d Ave. S . E . 5 240 1
Nelson's Meat & Delicatessen 3201 1 st Ave. S . E . 5 240 1
Swiss Colony Lindale Plaza 5 2402
CHARLOTTE, N.C.
Belk Bros. Gourmet Shop 5th and College Sts. 2820 1
Leo ' s Delicatessen 1 503 El izabeth Ave. 28202
Reid ' s Super Markets 707 Providence Rd . 28207
CHICAGO, ILL.
The Epicure Shop Carson, Pirie, Scott & Co. 1 S. State St. 60603
Evanston Sea Food 7 1 9 Main St. Evanston 60202
Kuhn ' s Delicatessen & Liquors 305 1 - 5 3 N . L incoln Ave. 606 5 7
T h e Pantry Marshal l Field & Co. 1 1 1 N. State St. 6060 1
Scandia Fish and Delicatessen 1033 W. Belmont 60657
Schott and Son, Inc. 5247 N. Clark St. 60640
24
Stop and Shop 16 W. Washington Blvd. 60602
Vollendorf' s Scandi a Foods 3944 W. North Ave. 60647
CINCINNATI, OHIO
Svensk Butik 6 1 7-B Vine St. 45202
CLEVELAND, OHIO
Halle Bros. Co. 1 2 2 8 E uclid Ave. 44 1 1 5
Higbee ' s Department Store 1 00 Public Sq. 44 1 1 3
DALLAS, TEXAS
Cappello ' s 5 3 2 8 Lemmon Ave. 7 5 209
The Epicure Shop Neiman- Marcus Main at E rvay 7 5 2 0 1
S imon David 7 1 1 7 Inwood Rd. 7 5 209
DETROIT, MICH.
). L. Hudson Co. 1 206 Woodward 48226
HOUSTON, TEXAS
Antone ' s Import Co. (807 Taft St . ) P .O. Box 3352 7700 1
European Import Store (9 1 0 Preston St. ) P .O. Box 2205 7700 1
JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Joseph Assi Bakery & Delicatessen 3 3 1 6 Beach Blvd. 3 2 007
KANSAS CITY, MO.
The Country Store 42 1 Nichols Rd. 64 1 1 2
Hickory Farms of Ohio Store Prairie Vil lage, Kans. 66208
Milwaukee Delicatessen 620 1 Oak St. 64 1 1 3
Swanson 's G rocery 1 8 1 1 Westport Rd. 64 1 1 1
LOS ANGELES;CALIF.
Jurgensen · s G rocery Co. 409 N. Beverly Dr. , Beverly Hi l l s 902 1 0
LOUISVILLE, KY.
Strohm Market 92 1 Barrett Ave. 40205
MEMPHIS, TENN.
Barzizza Bros. I nternational Trade Center 3 5 1 S. Front St. 3 8 1 03
MILWAUKEE, WIS.
Gimbels-Schusters 1 0 1 W. Wisconsin Ave. 5 3202
MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.
Maid of Scandinavia 3245 Raleigh Ave. S . 5 5 4 16
MONTREAL, QUE., C ANADA
Dionne Fils & Cie 1 2 2 1 St. Catherine St. W.
Eaton 's Gourmet Department 677 St. Catherine St. W.
NEW ORLEANS, LA.
M. Langenstein & Sons, I nc. 1 3 30 Arabella 70 1 1 5
NEW YORK, N . Y .
Bloomingdale ' s Gourmet Dept. Lexington at 5 9th St. 1 002 2
Cheese of Al l Nations 1 5 3 Chambers St. 1 0007
Cheese Village Ltd . 3 G reenwich Ave. 1 00 1 1
H . Roth & Son 1 5 7 7 1 st Ave. 1 0028
Maryland Gourmet Mart 4 1 4 Amsterdam Ave. 1 0024
Nyborg & Nelson, Inc. 937 2nd Ave. 10022
Paprikas Wei ss 1 5 46 2nd Ave. 1 0028
PITTSBURGH, PA.
Kaufmann ' s Department Store 400 5 th Ave. 1 5 2 19
Swi ss Colony 1 3 3 S. Hi l l s Vil lage 1 5 2 4 1
PORTLAND, ME.
Mitchell ' s of Portland 2 5 Forest Ave. 04 1 0 1 6 4 Pine St. 04 102
Model Food I mporters I nc. 95 Middle St. 04 1 1 1
ST. LOUIS, MO .
Heid i ' s Around the World Foods 1 149 S. Brentwood Blvd . 63 1 1 7
). Vaughan, I nc. 7 1 5 St. Charles St. 63 1 0 1
Paul's Cheese Stall Paprikas Weiss Kilpatrick ' s 1 16 Union Market, 700 N . 6th 1 5 46 2nd Ave. 10028 1 5 09 Douglas 68 102 63 1 0 1
ST. LOUIS, MO. PHOENIX, ARIZ.
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH Heidi 's Around the World Foods Diamond ' s Henry' s Meat and Delicatessen 1 149 South Brentwood Blvd. 63 1 1 7 Park Central Shopping Center 2 36 East 2nd St. S. 84105 850 1 3
Linner' s Delicatessen Goldwater's 69 West 3rd St. S. 84 1 0 1 Utensils Park Central Shopping Center
Lu Dornbush Delicatessen 850 1 3
163 East 3rd St. S. 84 105 ATLANTA, GA.
Rich's S A N FRANC ISCO, CALI F. .. Nygren Market 45 Broad St. S. W. 30303 The Capricorn
902 East 27th St. S. 84 106 1 846 Union St. 94 1 2 3 BOSTON, MASS. Thomas E. Cara Ltd.
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF. Jordan Marsh 5 1 7 Pacific Ave. 94 1 3 3 Goldberg Bowen 450 Washington St. 02 1 1 1 3 14 Sutter St. 94 108 Williams-Sonoma
Norse Cove The Pot Shop 576 Sutter St. 94 102 38 1 Boylston St. 02 1 16
434 Castro St. 94 1 14 SEATTLE, WASH.
CHI CAGO, ILL. Frederick & Nelson SEATTLE, WASH. Carson Pirie Scott & Co. 5th and Pine 98 1 0 1 Carter ' s Fine Foods and Delica- 1 S. State St. 60603 tessen Northwest Gourmet Center 4523 University Way N. E. 98 105 DENVER, COLO. 1 208 Lake St. , Renton 98 1 5 5
Chip's Delicatessen Denver Dry Goods Co.
Security Market 16th and California 80202 TORONTO, CANADA
3rd Ave. and Virginia St. 98 105 Pampered Kitchens
DETROIT, MICH. The Colonnade, 1 3 1 Bloor St. W. , Johnsen' s Scandinavian Foods ). L. Hudson Toronto 5 2248 N. W. Market 98 107 1206 Woodward 48226
Specialty Spice Shop HOUSTON, TEX. Seeds and Potted Herbs Stall 3 , Lower Floor, Pike Place
Market 98 101 Petite Marmite 6 1 1 0 Westbury Square 77035 Earl May Nursery
VANC OUVER, B.C., CANADA INDIANAPOLIS, IND.
Shenandoah, Iowa 5 160 1 Dovre Import & Export Ltd.
L. S. Ayres & Co. Henry Field Co. 369 E. Hastings St.
1 W. Washington St. 46204 Shenandoah, Iowa 5 160 1
Hungarian Foodstuffs MIAMI, FLA. Tool Shed Herb Nursery Salem Center
Burdine 's North Salem, N.Y. 10560 22 E. Flagler St. 3 3 1 3 1
DALLAS, TEXAS Wayside Gardens Cappello 's
N E W Y O R K , N.Y. Mentor, Ohio 44060 5 328 Lemmon Ave. 7 5 209 Bazaar de Ia Cuisine Weston Nurseries Simon David 160 E. 5 5th St. 10022 East Main St. 7 1 17 Inwood Rd. 75 209 Bazaar Frant;ais Hopkington, Mass. 0 1 748
666 6th Ave. 10010 White Flower Farm MONTREAL, QUE., CANADA
Old Europe Fine Foods The Bridge Co. Litchfield, Conn. 067 59 3855 St. Lawrence Blvd. 2 1 2 E. 52nd St. 10022
Sepps Sausages & Delicatessen Inc. Hammacher Schlemmer Shallots 3769 St. Lawrence Blvd. 145 E. 5 7th St. 10022
Eaton's Gourmet Department La Cuisiniere GNL Shallot Distributors 677 St. Catherine St. W. 903 Madison Ave. 1002 1 5 1 De Shibe Terrace
NEW YORK, N.Y. OMAHA, NEB. Vineland, N.J. 08360
H. Roth & Son Brandeis Les Eschalotes 1 577 1 st Ave. 1 0028 16th and Douglas 68102 Ramsey, N.J. 07446
Printed in U.S.A. :n: