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FOOTयात्रा Travelogue of a Foot-soldier

Agastya Kapoor | www.agastyakapoor.com

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“The pilgrimage on foot was the immemorial rite of the abolishing of differences. To know this, was to reconcile oneself with time, to reconcile all times with all other times.”

Octavio Vaz | Mexican poet-diplomat and writer | 1914-1998

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Chapter 01: Pandora’s Box I was first introduced to the concept of walking in school. I read about the „Salt March‟ by our Father of Nation – Mahatma Gandhi; somewhere in 1930s. I was quite indifferent to this march but always very inquisitive about the idea.

While growing up, I often saw people walking in large numbers to pay visit to the shrine of a popular messenger of God - Sai Baba. This one is one of them most visited pilgrimage in India. Much later in life, I heard about a great saint and leader – Acharya Vinoba Bhave who walked all around India for several years (like more than 20 years) to collect land for poor and neglected communities. I really thought that these men had lost their minds but I always had a pinch in my heart about the whole concept of walking for a cause. Who knew I had to wait for more than 30 years for someone to come and shake my whole life up. Someone, actually two of them, who made me realise that I may re-work my entire 33 years of life!

In December of 2013, I attended a retreat organized by a community named „Moved By Love‟. It was actually a pursuit to find myself; an inner journey. There I met three men who changed the way I look at my life – Siddharth Sthalekar, Nipun Mehta and Jayesh Patel. Their humbleness surprised me and ripped my heart away. They made me understand the reasons why great men walked the pilgrimage path and why they took the road less taken. I was convinced and when I came back, I resigned from my job. I decided to sacrifice my lower goals for higher ones. The retreat did really move me by love. My inner journey had started and soon I met the man who inspired me to the next level. Who knew that this man would be the one I‟ll walk with one day. With the grace of divine design, I met them man - Yogesh Mathuria. He had been quite inspired by his mentor, who walked (without money) from New Delhi to America; somewhere in 1960s.

In 2014, we discussed about this dream peace project where he would walk to India‟s neighbouring countries (starting with Pakistan) with the message of peace and love. This was not the only challenge, but there was another – walking without money! I got damn interested this time and agreed to walk with him for first 20 days – Ahmadabad to Udaipur in India. I was very excited since the day I agreed. I knew there was a beast (as well a clown) waiting for me in this road less taken. I prepared my mind, body and emptied my wallet for a mad adventure that might change my life forever. I read somewhere that if you want things you don‟t have, you have to do things you have never done before. That day I knew some miracle was about to happen and with great determination, I agreed to walk this path of fire, I decided to take the road less taken and opened the forbidden package...

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Chapter 02: Butterflies in stomach With encouragement of my wife (and better half), I had agreed to participate in the walking pilgrimage but had not been getting ready mentally. I had joined a teaching institute but didn‟t tell them that I have to leave for the walk in near future. I left it on the universe to guide me. I started reading various articles about such experiments. I read stories and travelogues of different people. There is one very special I want to share - Abraham‟s Path. This is a long-distance walking trail across the Middle East which connects the sites visited by the patriarch Abraham as recorded in ancient religious texts and traditions. I had been always known to be a mad-man and rebel all my life and I shared my decision with a few (leftover) friends. I don‟t remember anyone, except one or two, seconding or encouraging me in this experiment. As a child, I had heart the inspiring song by a great Indian poet – Rabindranath Tagore. “I‟ll also walk alone” I said to myself.

The day had almost come and I completed the job in hand and started preparing. There was no physical preparation (and this was to become the worst nightmare in coming days) but somehow I managed to exercise and walk for few kilometres everyday early morning. One person in my housing society encouraged me to walk everyday and he made sure I did it daily. I think he is a co-passenger of me in this journey of life. The day had arrived. I was at Mumbai railway station. My train was a little late and I was all alone at that side of railway station. It looked like the whole universe wanted me to stand alone. On the way, I met many people with whom I shared my idea of walking pilgrimage. Some got furious, some got excited, and some just cared a damn.

I reached the destination the next day and first went to a friend‟s place – Pratik Padariya. There were two more people who were supposed to join us from there. We went to Gandhi Ashram and together with the Moved By Love community, we prayed for everyone and our mission.

Thereafter we had three days to prepare and enjoy in the city. I got company of two noble souls – Renu Watwani and her son Shourya Watwani (I fondly call him Buddha). Together, we decided to do some cleaning work in the city. We went around many places in the city and started our cleaning campaign. Not only we inspired people to clean but we also took oaths with them. It was such a beautiful experience. Our host family was also very loveable and it was like a family. Every day we got up and prepared food with aunty and then would come back in then night to have delicious food and lots of love.

I had to go to our final destination form where we‟re supposed to start our walking pilgrimage. We had to walk to this place and for the first time, I walked around 15 kilometres at a stretch. This was the first hand experience of a walking pilgrimage. We passed through highways and slums, meeting and talking to people. I was damn inspired by the way Jayeshbhai did this all along. He would stop at the doors of families, chat with homeless people, and even talk to cows and dogs on the way. It was such a nostalgic scene! I was getting more anxious minute by minute. I was happy meeting so many other people out there but also sceptical about my decision to walk for such a long period. The tension was rising as time was passing. Not thinking about the idea was the only cure. I don‟t like to expect and assume and this helped me all along. Finally, it was night time and the journey was to start in the early next morning. Life was a garden, lots of colourful flowers, green colours, cool breeze, peace and lots of butterflies... And ...I think all of them were inside me, all night

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Chapter 03: The beginning march

The night was wonderful and I got up early morning. It was quite cold outside. I was feeling like an ripe fruit; read to roll. After a ritualistic prayer, we gathered at a place to begin. We prayed, and took blessings of our dear mentors and friends. The time had come and I wore my first ever shoe in a decade, and put my feet outside the gate.

The whole universe was in like „Silence Mode‟. We decided to walk in silence till sunrise – Me, Yogesh Mathuria, Sheetal Sanghvi and Vijai Yadav. WALKING IN SLENCE! It was a completely new thing for me. I never thought of being silent. I thought we‟ll have fun talking about hundreds of things. But all my dreams were shattered. I was fresh but little uncomfortable walking with the shoe. The first hour was terrible. I couldn‟t stand the silence (but anyway I was talking to myself continuously). I was moving at the speed of light (almost) and suddenly I saw a ray of light somewhere form the corner of the sphere, corner? Does a sphere even have a corner? Such is my height of stupidity but the point is that sun was about to rise. The sky was a painting created with a analogous colour scheme – pink, purple, orange, red, etc... As soon as we could see light all around, we took a break and finally threw out some words to each other. I burst a „Word-Bomb‟ on my partner. The morning looked so beautiful as if I have seen it for the first time in my life. Actually, I witnessed it after a long time. I could hear the voice of a peacock nearby. I could also hear some random birds‟ chirping in the background, far behind the trees. Sheetalbhai had promised his participation only till sunrise and he left us with warm wishes for the journey. What was left was the „The Trinity‟ and I was glad that I opened the Pandora‟s Box. We kept walking through the capital city of Gandhinagar towards north of Gujarat. The sun was in his or her full glory. Shining bright and I realized we had been walking for almost 5 hours now. The city was full of hustle-bustle and the traffic was in its full swing. Suddenly, I started getting uncomfortable. My speed was getting slow. I noticed pain under few fingers of my feet. I didn‟t pay attention and like a true soldier, I was determined to quit only if I am dead. Although, I have been practising trekking all my life but I never experienced continuous walking like this. I knew there was something wrong My fear was right – BLISTERS!

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Chapter 04: The first morsel

I had felt the pain of blisters long time ago and I knew how killer they‟re. The temperature was rising and I couldn‟t walk much but we had to take our first break. Sheetalbhai had suggested an ashram for our halt.

Sitaram Ashram (near Gandhinagar) was a beautiful little ashram and a perfect for our break. I was dying to remove the shoe and see the condition of blisters. The sage of the ashram offered us water to drink and directed us to the washroom. My blisters had taken monstrous form and were quite painful. I got blisters on almost all the fingers. I was not afraid but worried. The sage gave me his blessings and offered healing by a hand gesture. Just then, I realized that he wasn‟t speaking at all. His peers told us that he is in the silence mode since many years. Maybe, it was his way of meditation, communication or his atonement.

I distracted my mind and took a nice bath with cold water; in an almost open bathroom. The bathroom was raw room made of bricks and had put my towel to act as a curtain. I also had frog to accompany me inside, and he witnessed the act throughout; uncensored. Soon, were called for food – Ram Roti, as they call it. It‟s actually nothing but charity food. The ashram serves food and shelter for beggars, saints, homeless and pilgrims like us. This was our first food of the journey and believe me, this simple food was one of the best food I had eaten in my life. We told our entire story to the sage. He was listening eagerly and was quite impressed by our mission. After eating, I almost forgot about my blisters and spent entire afternoon watching this cow eating and doing her activities. It was a beautiful time with oneself. I tried to sleep but there were hell lot of mosquitoes that didn‟t allow any of us to sleep. Soon, it was late afternoon and I had a glass of cold butter milk and we stepped out of the ashram after taking the sage‟s blessings for the pilgrimage. We kept walking and walking, passing farms, highways, villages, water holes and people. The evening was searching for us and soon we could feel the tiredness and decided to take a stop. But this time, there was no suggestion like we got last time from Sheetalbhai. I had an idea! I have been an ardent traveller, rather a low-impact traveller, all my life and I promptly suggested to the group that we enter the nearest village and meet the village head to support us. We all agreed and met the village head of village – Gozaria. He was a kind person and made arrangement of food and shelter in the community hall. This was my first night stay earned by begging; although for a cause. Back in the room, dear Vijaibhai turned into a lover and a doctor. He held my foot and started treating my blisters in his own sweet way. He burst the blisters, cleaned them, applied medicine and tied bandage to it. I had never seen such a act of compassion that this first day of my walking pilgrimage showed me. The gift of day one - Food and Love - took my breath away

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Chapter 05: Night in a maternity ward

We left the community centre early in the morning. There was no plan for the day. We just kept walking towards the highway. There was no one around except a team of stray dogs that were half asleep and half estranged. I was a little uncomfortable or let me put it straight, little scared. But somehow, I passed the danger. The team was very cooperative and we even wished them “Good Morning,” As the sun started coming up, Yogeshbhai got a call from a friend to give a reference of someone who could host us for the day. We were super excited and thanked almighty for the support. As we were walling, I suddenly got a call from the nature. I looked for a bathroom but soon realized that we are walking on inter-state highway. I have a lot of experience in attending these calls in the forest, in the open. But there was a challenge, there was no water. Vijaibhai (always the lender of last resort) helped me to get a bottle of water and finally, I completed the task with a satisfactory feeling. We had to reach a small town – Visanagar. I once thought it was “Visa-nagar” as almost all the Guajarati people are trying to get a visa to the US! But jokes apart, it was a beautiful town very close to Vadnagar; birthplace of our Prime Minister – Narendra Modi. We reached at a junction and asked for our host - Jyoti Hospital. There were few people talking and they immediately showed us the way. They even inquired about the tag I was wearing, that said – WALKING PILGRIMAGE. They were quite impressed and wished us good luck. In a short while, we found the place and we met the founder doctor of this hospital.

Dr. Mihir Joshi welcomed us to his hospital. He is man of service and golden heart. He runs this hospital on the concept of „Gift Economy‟. After a brief chat about our mission, he directed us to our room; in the maternity ward. It was the only room available that day and we made ourselves (somewhat) comfortable in this room. This was the first time I was to spent a night in a maternity. I have spent many nights in hospital but never in a... You see! After a shower and little food I took a treatment for my blisters and we decided to sleep for a while and then go out to explore the city and interact with people. I was feeling very HOT and decided to shave my hair. We all had to do some cleaning work, and we set out to hunt for a barber shop.

While we were busy exploring the place, we interacted with many people and discussed about our mission. We got mixed responses, some thought it was a good idea, and some thought it as bullshit. There we me this man – Himmatbhai who came as our saviour and guide. He took up the task of guiding us to the barber shop. He spoke in English and offered “I‟ll guide you. You‟re our guest and guest is God, Sir.” I was so embarrassed and requested him not to call me that, and just guide us the right way. I told him that I am of his grandson‟s age and I‟ll feel most comfortable if he calls me by my name. But he was quite determined to accompany me till the shop. He took me to a nice barber shop that was his favourite. Then, he not only told the barber to give me a nice shave, but a head massage as well. On the top, he sat there till I was done and paid for my shave and head massage.

We‟re (sometimes) so materialistic that we don‟t have the sight to look beyond money. Such stories have become folklore. But this is fact in small town and villages of India. People are so loving and compassionate. Guest is really God for them and they‟re courageous enough to treat them like that. I was extremely touched by this act. Not that I couldn't pay or don‟t stop him but I didn't want to take away the pleasure of receiving. After the act, we hugged each other tightly and he disappeared in thin air. Some people find God in stones, I find God in humans.

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I felt like doing something different, and I shaved my head. I think it was the right thing to do ad it was too hot in the middle of October. With the bald head, we decided to visit our Prime Minister‟s birth place. We came to know about an old age home that his brother managed. We had a nice time out there. Although, his brother was not around, the manager took us around and we met few elderly people. We told them about our mission and took their blessings. It was kind of surprising that all of them had a quite positive approach towards our mission and encouraged us to do more for the society.

We came back in the evening and after a nice dinner (in the hospital), went to bed; at least I thought so. There was continuous disturbance form the ward. Little babies crying all around. It was an interesting experience. In the middle of night, there was an urgent delivery and the maternity ward was upside-down. It was a chaos outside but order in our mind. For the first time I realized the challenges and difficulties of the maternity ward staff. In the morning, we left with a first-aid box gifted to us by the doctor. It was such a sweet gesture of love. The entire hospital offered us wishes for the journey and we hit the road...with my blisters of course!

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Chapter 06: On the feet of a living legend Our next stop was scheduled in a school in a sacred town - Siddhpur. This town is an ancient town most famous for performing religious rituals for deceased mother. This doesn‟t happen anywhere in India, except here. This town also hold importance to the affluent Muslim community – Bohra Muslim and also the largest producer of husk in the country. I was quite uncomfortable with the blisters on me and took a halt every one hour. This made us quite slow. In the morning, when we walked silently, I looked up above the sky so high, and saw many diamonds in the sky. The sky was full of stars that I never noticed in my city – the concrete jungle. The sky was so clear, the climate was beautiful and we were walking silently towards our destination. This was the first time we touched the national highway and took utmost precaution not to come under the tyre of any truck. Yogeshbhai is fond of using Google map and I am fond of asking for address personally. I think that by using too much technology, we kill the human touch.

We had almost completed walking 100 kilometres and almost reach our destination. We were welcomed by our host in Yoganjali School. This school was founded by a great woman who is a Gandhian and had walked with Acharya Vinoba Bhave all around India for more than 10 years. They had hundreds of little children that I met. After breakfast, we met this 80 year young lady – Ramilaben Gandhi and just kept watching her for few moments. She was like a Goddess, wrapped in cotton Indian drape, sitting on her seat, fluent in English, Hindi and Gujarati, and an aura around her. A lady, in her 80s, but beautiful than Miss Universe! I got hijacked and they way she welcomed her with her sweet voice, it killed me man. She started asking about our journey and my mentor told him about our peace pilgrimage.

Then, I asked to share her story. As she was sharing her journey, I was just looking at her like a rock and feeling so frightened within. She shared that she had left her home at the age of 20 and joined national teacher and spiritual successor of Mahatma Gandhi for the „Land Gift Movement‟. I was getting chills listening to her story and felt almost like a quark in front of her. I thought that I was the one who is doing a difficult task, walking for peace and all that stuff but when I got to know that she walked for the cause for 10 years, I remained quiet for the whole day.

Can you believe? A young lady of 20 years or so, leaving her home against the will of her parents and joining a man who was supposed to walk India for 25 years asking for land for rich landlords – BOSS! This is Awesome! She told us how she walked all around India in the 1950s and collected land from the rich land owners and gifted the poor farmers. After that she came and established this school, all alone. It was a “Man Oriented” world then (and it is still now) and all that she did to establish a school at that time was a real tough job. She never married and has given all her life for education and service, selfless service. She is affirm believer in self reliance and had built a home of mud and all eco-friendly products.

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We were eager to meet the children and address them about our mission. Children are the tools for change, and I blend well with them. Yogeshbhai started addressing them and told all about his mission and life. But, I think he means serious business and they got a bit bored. Seeing this, he handed over the conversation to me. I started with a bang. I told them about my career in the animation industry and my journey of life since childhood. By the grace of almighty, I have a talent of connecting with children within a minute. I won their hearts and attention. We shared our mission and I even promised them to share the craft of Origami. After lunch, immediately we came together and I taught a few of them making a fighter aeroplane with paper. They were so mesmerised like they have never seen such a thing before. And, it‟s such a crude truth that they have never. We in big cities see aeroplanes in our daily life but children sating in small towns or villages rarely even see paper planes. This information gap makes me unhappy

In the evening, we were offered a city tour by a member of the school. He promised us and exciting tour with joyous moments. He was kind to become our guide and we started with the famous Bohra Muslim area of the city. It‟s a plush locality with ancient homes. It has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Then, we visited the famous temple that offers performing religious rituals for deceased mother. This place became popular when the super star of Hindi film industry visited this temple for her mother.

We had lots of fun in the evening and we came back just before the prayer time. After the prayer, the second-in-command of the living legend – Jignaben requested to share some video and audio editing skills, so that she can become self sufficient. I happily (and effectively) fulfilled her wish and gifted her a bit of my knowledge that will help her become self reliant for life. After that we had good food, joyful chat with children and went to sleep. All night I had been thinking that I missed an opportunity to put my feet on Ramilben’s feet. I had never done this before because I never felt this way for anyone else. But, this lady was something different. I had missed the opportunity but I got a shock of my life in the morning. The living legend was waiting to wish us goodbye in the morning. This was a nostalgic scene and I immediately put my head on her feet and took her blessings. She had never done this before, I had never done this before!

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Chapter 07: The untouchables We started walking in the early hours of morning and this dog walked with us for almost an hour. He was like our guard or messenger or perhaps, God manifested in the form of a dog to support our cause. We had been given a lead to visit a family of socially neglected and looked down upon – The untouchables, in the hamlet – Chhapi. It‟s shocking but true. India is one of the few unfortunate countries in the world that has this taboo community in almost all the regions. And, we knew this very well while hunting for the address of this family. We asked a man on the way and he was crazy. “Why do you want to visit that area?” he exclaimed. I made him understand, politely, that it‟s none of his business. He didn‟t cooperate much but after an hour of hunting, we found the place. Yogeshbhai called this man up and he agreed to come to pick us up. We‟re standing on the cross road where we‟re at the centre of attention. It seemed like every shop, every customer, every dog or cat was looking only at us for that moment.

He was so surprised and shocked upon learning this fact that someone really wants to meet them. Anyway, we reached the venue somehow after an hour of asking and getting lost in the village. Upon reaching the location where he told us to, he came running to meet us. It seem that he was coming to rescue us or something as we‟re the focus of all the shops around and for the first time, after many years, I felt like an alien from X999 galaxy; some 3.3 x 10

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trillion light years away from our planet. But, we met after sharing few calls of “Where are you, I am here” types. He took us to his little home in a nearby place. The place was filled with beautiful little homes and colourful people. There was a beautiful woman washing utensils, a (too) healthy stray dog barking at us, lots of fine dust kissing our feet, little children running here and there, mud walls displaying their tribal art, fragrance of some pungent food and finally the gutter water flowing here and there. A perfect picture of an Indian village! They first served us a sweet dish with dry fruits and later we‟re served lentil and rice in the same utensil. It was so tasty that I kept licking my finger. We‟re served chilled “Butter Milk” and the women of the home was doing the fan for us; like the women used to do to the King in olden times. It was an AWESOME lunch and after that we exchanged telephone numbers and offered our goodbyes. Our hero came to escort us to the outskirts of the village. He also told us the way forward. On the way forward, we had only one topic – the hospitality of this untouchable. We the people have coined them a name, keep them neglected and suppressed but there is so much love in their heart. There was no feeling of inequality in their heart. Maybe, it‟s us, the over educated and uncivilized lots who create differences because they are simple folks with only love in their heart and glint their eyes. While, most of us in the cities have (almost) forgotten the hospitality toward guests, these forbidden heroes are keeping the head of our culture high

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Chapter 08: V.I.P. treatment

Our next destination, as guided by a well wisher, was to be a school - Lokniketan. We never thought that it‟ll become a nostalgic memory. We thought it will be a small school but we‟re all shocked as we set to find out the address of this school in Ratanpur; a small town in north Gujarat. The principal guided us the way and told us to reach at the main gate. When we reached the main gate, I was clean-bowled! There was a ban waiting for us and as we reached near the gate, beautiful music welcomed us. We‟re offered a warm traditional Hindu welcome. There were a crowd of almost 100 students and teacher to welcome us and they took us respectfully near the prayer hall. It was almost like the celebration of a king assigned to the throne. I was very excited at least as i has never experienced such dashing welcome before.

We entered the prayer area that was a huge hall. The principal introduced us to all the students (who were already waiting for us) and told us about the founder of the school and his story. It was mega-school spread in acres and acres of land. But this is not it; the founder built 15 such schools in Gujarat. After the prayer, we had a good talk with students and interacted with lot of them who stay in the premises.

Next morning, we got up early and sat for the prayers. Thereafter, I wanted to share the message of cleanliness with the students. Actually, the students clean the premises everyday but I added some spice. I made a fictional character called “SAFAI-MAN” that means something like a super-hero. It clicked with the children and they got crazy with this idea. Suddenly, a stereotype boring activity became so interesting that almost all of them took part. Within no time, the whole school wad clean and tidy. Finally, after delicious breakfast, we had to leave. We addressed a small group of students and again were escorted by this band till the gate. I don‟t like such special treatment much, but this was selfless and hence I also accepted it with great love and happiness!

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Chapter 09: Tribal affair

I can call it a miracle or a divine design that a dream of connecting with a tribal family got fulfilled when I got to know we‟re visiting such a family; deep in the forest of north Gujarat. Our host for the next two days was scheduled with a Muslim family inside the Balaram-Ambaji Wildlife Sanctuary. I was thrilled but the way, I was told, was like climbing Mt. Everest. I crossed my fingers – both of hands and legs!

With help of uncle Google Maps, lots of walking in the wild, and a little bit of asking local humans, we reached at the base point. This was small hamlet from where we were supposed to start. Our host was to meet us at this spot. We were greeted warmly but the rural family. They offered us water and food. The head of the family had already been directed by our host.

I fondly, interacted with the children while Yogeshbhai and Vijaibhai were busy talking other things and taking directions to the destination. The children couldn‟t speak my language and I couldn‟t speak theirs but see the magic; we were good friends in no time. Heart-to-Heart communication showed us a way. Once again, I was prompted by love that it has no border; none of those we humans create. I had an iPad Mini on me and aha! Before I go ahead, I need to thank my previous employer who gifted me this gadget for working for a decade with them. So...I went ahead to teach them photography. I just showed them the basic tool – view and click button. To my surprise, actually not, some of them clicked beautiful pictures - of their home and school. One such special child was Bibili. She was too much. She‟s the girl is extreme screen left and seemed like the leader of the mischievous gang!

After sharing our good-byes, we started our journey to the top of the mountain. Luckily, we had a small boy to accompany us. He took us though the forest, river, Greenland, bushes etc. We were quite slow and cautious and this boy was like a rocket. Although, I have a good experience of trekking but this time I was thrown out of my ego by this little tribal boy. Time and again, this trip never missed any opportunity to show me my real face. Finally, after a rough and tough walk, we reached our destination village - Khatisitra.

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This village - in a small district - was like a dream come true. We‟re welcomed in a beautiful tribal style by the family of our host – Mustukhan Sukh. It‟s a small hamlet deep inside the forest; not even on the map of India. It has been completely forgotten by the Government and people. There is nothing that a rural village of our country has. It shares border with the western state of Rajasthan and is very close to the popular hill station – Mount Abu. The location on the border is its biggest problem as well as advantage. But, the people are colourful and lovely! Within no time, they made us so comfortable. Mustubhai has done his graduation in rural studies and post-graduation in social service. He always wanted to serve the rural community and in the young age of around 25, when most of the youth are busy thinking to either go abroad or earn lots of money and fame, he left his home to work for the rural population of his state – Gujarat. He came to this area and adopted this village and started his journey to serve these tribal. In the start, he was not welcomed because people thought that he is one of those people that comes there to do nothing or destroy their peace. They condemned his stay. But, he was very clear. He wanted to open a school there and work for medical assistance. Even the forest department threatened him several times because of his home school he started in inside the forest. There were many instances of quarrels but one day there was a medical urgency where he was of big help to the villagers and this marked his victory in their hearts. He put his life in trouble to support a delivery case and saved both the mother and child. This made him a hero overnight plus almost two years of hard work. Now, he is the official village mentor and has been given a land by the tribal head to run his home and a school. There was no education in the area and now, 60 students attend school to learn primary education.

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He, along his wife Mumtazben, serves the tribal village and has written their life to the service of this village. The forest department is now supporting him and encouraging more such work in the area. Not only this, he has also started Eco-tourism in his tribal village to make community self reliable and lift them economically and socially.

What a wonderful contrast! In a world where our country is seeing terrible hatred between two communities, especially Hindu and Muslim, we see a Muslim man serving 100 Hindu families. In a world where there is growing hatred for Muslim community and they are being targeted as terrorists, there is this man who has given all his luxuries of life and sitting deep in the forest and doing the work that Government and all of us should have done. One community cannot be terrorist, maybe a few from them but definitely not all. We need to change our mindset and understand the real meaning of “Terrorism” and people associated with it. Muslims (real ones) round the globe are doing awesome work and Mustubhai is the best example I have come across.

There is no electricity, so in the night, we did camp-fire. We talked about our experiences of life. Yogesbhai has been all around the world and was talking of the outside world. The tribal village head has been all around the forest and was talking about the inside world. Spoken language was a problem but Mustubhai did a good job of translation. We asked them about our country, the Prime Minster etc but the only world they know – is their tribal village. We talked about their dreams, needs, wants and to my surprise; their wants are just so simple and basic. They have “Mini-Menu” of life. They love and seek love and love only. They‟re often afraid of being wiped off by the greedy corporate and politicians. Youth, both girls and boys, asked us various questions about our mission and the outside world. I found them to be very sensitive and compassionate. After the camp fire, we had delicious food prepared by the ladies of the house. There was some dance and songs to accompany the dinner. Next morning, we were scheduled to leave a little late i.e. after sunrise. The tribe gathered to wish us luck for the journey and I had already made up my mind to offer them support. We asked them about their immediate requirement. The tribal village head immediately replied “Electricity.”

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Chapter 10: Awakening in paradise

The universe had kept a keen watch on us since the day we started and was always very benevolent. I was getting used to witnessing miracles everyday and suddenly, there was one more. It so happened that we were not sure of our next destination, but just look at the miracle, one angel from Pakistan made our arrangement in a huge spiritual retreat centre own by one of the biggest cult of modern times – Bramha Kumaris

This paradise is situated in the lap of one of the most popular hill station of Western India – Mt.Abu. We travelled our way through the steep hill-road, chilled breeze and numerous gangs of monkeys. We were welcomed by our French host Monaben, who was a member of this community. The spiritual retreat centre is home to millions of followers‟ everyday and that day was some sort of conglomeration where people from more than 100 countries were present. Our host took us lunch. We had one of the most delicious local foods at one restaurant that was owned by her friend. After the lunch we went around this huge paradise. There was one member from the organization who took us around the place. The people were so nice everywhere. All the followers dress up in white clothes. There was peace sitting everywhere. I was wondering all along that, we‟re in India but one friend from Pakistan helped us in getting accommodation and another friend from France hosted us there. I‟ve always believe in the idea of ONE GLOBAL VILLAGE but here, I saw it time and again. We met so many beautiful people from different parts of the world. This one is a must visit place. One host also managed to setup a radio interview for us in All India Radio. We were so excited to give our first interview. It was late evening and we entered the office. We were welcomed by the in charge of the office. Actually, due to cost cutting, he was the technical person, interviewer, creative director and officer in charge. He grilled us (in a friendly way) for an hour. He was very excited about our journey and wanted to know more about it. We told him everything we knew - all of it and some more only to learn that he cannot relay our conversation from his station. He suggested us to go a big station in the main city and even scheduled an interview there. So kind of him! But, but the main highlight of this destination was that we got to meet the highest in the spiritual rank, one of the most decorated and elderly spiritual mentor of the community. Dadi Jayanti, as they call her, is the one everyone is looking for. She‟s one of the most important and popular person in the centre. We just took our chance and requested the security guard to let us meet her for a couple of minutes. “Well just tell her about her mission and take her blessings” we said and as a miracle, he agreed. He sent us inside. The chamber was a sombre room filled with meditation music and fragrance. After a little waiting period, she came into the room; like a white fairy straight from something much higher and beautiful than heaven. She spoke to us so sweetly that I still can‟t take away her silky voice from my ears. She heard us and also blessed us. She also offered us with a shawl each and fruits. OMG! I never imagined this to happen. We were just strangers

and not even followers of them but the loved they showered on us was something I have never experienced before. This had brought a sense of awakening in me that I promised to use in my life; all the time

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Chapter 11: Angels in disguise We were warned about tribal men turned dacoits on the route. The route after the paradise was almost like a stone-desert. It was a long highway with very little green patches or villages around. This is the time that we got a little worried because there was no civilization around and top of that – the cult of these dreadful dacoits. And as you sow, you reap and as you think, you get...we heard someone shouting at us from a distance. We looked around carefully and realized that it came from a tribal hunt on a nearby hill top. We saw a small man running towards us with something on his shoulder. We got shit scared and thought that the time to get looted has come. But suddenly we realized that we didn‟t have anything on us that can be taken away. We were ZERO! This man started coming closer and we realized that he is a tribal man but the thing on his shoulder is not a weapon but a vegetable. The afternoon was really hot and there was no one around. We were a little scared and more surprised at the moment. Together, we made up our mind to deny buying the vegetable.

In a fraction of minute this man came down running barefoot with a huge cucumber on his shoulder and started taking to us. He knew a little bit of Hindi language and asked us about our mission. Mission? But how on Earth did he came to know about it? Later we realized that the route is quite popular for pilgrimages and he is habituated to see people walking on that path.

He offered us the cucumber but we denied. We told him that we don‟t have any money to buy it. I lost all my senses when he explained us that he came not to sell us but offer the cucumber to us so that we don‟t feel the heart. I was really taken back by this compassionate act. He just came all the way to offer us his contribution in our mission and we were thinking him to be a dacoit. If sold the cucumber would have given him enough money for the day but this angel rather decided to gift us. This was an amazing act of selflessness towards a complete stranger. We left after a conversation but all the way I was thinking that who looted who? Did he loot us or did we loot him instead?

On our journey, we many people who hosted us – teachers, tribal, untouchables, priests etc. But, this man was a special case. Raja Ramesh was a crazy mystic and owned a hotel on the highway and he hosted us for a night. He offered food and love. He is a “Super-Fan” of popular Indian mystic Sai Baba and we talked at length about his favourite topic. His tone of speaking reminded me of my friend from Afghanistan and there was time in the conversation that I even asked him if he was from that country. But, actually he was from an eastern state of India. Strange correlation though but somehow it connects with the philosophy of ONE GLOBALVILLAGE.

He went out of his way to serve us and the next day came to offer lunch, making time form his busy schedule. He also told me about another Indian mystic Meher Baba, who is considered a disciple of Indian mystic Sai Baba. I never knew this all my life and I waited all my life for this man to tell me about him. How wonderful and hence, I think he was the link who was designed or destined to introduce me to this infamous Indian mystic. Such were some encounters with angels who, I feel, was God himself in disguise or maybe that was the real image of almighty!

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Chapter 12: Rise and fall of the ego-trip

It was almost 20 days and more than 300 kilometres of walking, begging, enjoying, connecting, getting surprised, experiencing acute compassion and witnessing miracles. We‟re quite close to the grand city – Udaipur. We had just taken a nice cold bath in a sanctorum. Although, that was the first place where we were asked money but later when Yogeshbhai told the caretakers about our mission, they happily agreed to help us for free. This was the first time I experienced a pinch in my heart but I took it in a positive way. I forgot about it in a while, after this great lunch they offered us.

On the way, I met this man of substance. He was from a very typical clan of the vagabonds. This clan belong to the desert rich area of Rajasthan. There life is a travel and they keep walking all around the country in search for greener and better life. I had a little idea about them but I never had an actual encounter with one.

But that day was something different. I started walking next to him and ignited a conversation. The man, who looked like the head of the family, was a level-headed and a calm human. We exchanged our ideas of walking and our mission. Our mission was inner and outer transformation and his was searching a better opportunity to live. At first, it looked like that we had opposite missions but on close examination, I realized that our missions were actually complementary; both incomplete without each other.

I became stuffed with ego and told him that I had just completed walking more than 300 kilometres. He smiled at me and informed me that they had completed walking more than 1,000 kilometres and they do like 5,000 kilometres every year...all their life...with their family, cattle and stuff_____________________________________________________!

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Chapter 13: Saturday night fever

It was my last day and we were finally entered the beautiful city – Udaipur. We had completed walking a little more than 300 kilometres; without money. I was quite tired and feeling a little sick because of changing weather conditions – cool in the night and too hot in the day. On that, I had been drinking chilled buttermilk several times a day. Our host was fixed. This one had already invited us even before we started. The host were the founders and directors of one of the most unusual university of the world – Swaraj University. The focus of this university is on self-designed learning and on green entrepreneurship, including exploration of basic business skills within the context of ecological sustainability and social justice. It‟s as much about developing the capacities and confidence we need to create and pursue our unique learning paths as it is about strengthening the leadership capacity and right livelihood opportunities in communities. I was feeling feverish as soon as I entered the host‟s residence. The host offered us a nice and hot green tea made of magical herbs. It took my fever away for a while but it came back again. We were schedules to give a talk in the university later in the night, but I knew my battery was down. I requested a room in a hotel and my partners escorted me to a budget hotel in the city. I selected a hotel very close to the inter-city bus stop because I was anticipating that I might have to leave through the night bus.

I took a room in that budget hotel and went outside to have a hot water gargle. It was busy market place and I found a tea vendor. I requested to give me hot water so that I can add salt and gargle. He demanded Rupees 10! For the first time I was being asked for money. I told him all about our journey, the mission and hospitality we received. But, he cared a shit about all that. He was only interested in his money. I was very curios and a little bit angry but I think, I missed his point. He had encountered many customers who ask for a glass of water and never return them back. I was wrong because I didn‟t understand him but instead I interpreted him. Good example of best and worst behaviour; in me and others. This is also a good example how things start changing as we get into urban life.

Anyway, that was surely my last day. I called up my family doctor and he prescribed me some pills. I took the pills and slept for few hours. In the evening, I got up, informed Yogeshbhai and boarded the first bus for my home city. I very well remember that night...it was ill, magical, hopeful, satisfying, sad, rough, tiring...and a Saturday

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Chapter 14: Lemon juice I returned to my home next morning. All night I was thinking about our walking pilgrimage. It was one of the best things that have happened to me. It was such beautiful memory. On the way, I was looking at the map on the internet and I realized that we walked almost 340 kilometres in 20 days whereas it takes just around 6 hours by car or bus. The whole journey was like a lemon – sweet and sour!

Paths are made by walking. The first question that hit me before even starting was that WTF happens by walking? Does peace come by walking? Are you crazy? All these questions were not from strangers but from the people whom I call family and friends. Very inspiring tough, but I couldn‟t answer them at that time. But, after I have completed the journey I can at least take an attempt to answer them through my perspective. At first, it seemed an outer journey. Walking many miles every day, passing through various villages, beg for food and shelter, and spread message of peace. But, as days went, I realized what saint Kabir said hundreds of years ago. He quoted in one of his lyrical poem: “When I began to search for the evil or wrongfulness, I couldn’t find them outside. And when I looked inside my heart, there was no one more evil and wrongful than myself.” Really, the good, bad, wrong and right was all inside me. It was not an outward journey but it was an inner one and the juice or what you can say – the conclusion was that:

It was all about letting off ego

It was all about noticing small things

It was all about enjoying little movements

It was all about community living

It was all about no money transaction

It was all about learning inside lives and culture

It was about exploring the “Guest is God” attitude

It was all about best and worst behaviour in myself and others

It was all about making new connections

It was all about trust

It was all about seeing beyond what is seen

It was all about believing in miracles

It was all about looking at the world with a different perspective

It was all about inner peace, love and compassion

It was all about solving oneself and aligning with universe

It was all about knowing oneself

It was all about unlearning

It was all about inner transformation When you walk your vision is 180 degree. One can see more, do more and learn more. It was by this walking that Mahatma Gandhi connected people from entire country to stand up for freedom. It was by this walking that Acharya Vinoba Bhave collected 4 million acres of land for poverty ridden farmers of India and it was by this walking that Gautam Buddha became enlightened. Walking is a powerful tool. Looks simple but the ripples go far. It‟s not only a good exercise for body but a good one for the soul too. Don‟t underestimate the potential of walking and grab an opportunity to walk if you get it in this life.

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FOOTयात्रा Travelogue of a Foot-soldier