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François Christiaens, François Christiaens,
L’Oréal Recherche,Clichy, FranceL’Oréal Recherche,Clichy, France
L’Oréal and Solar UV RadiationL’Oréal and Solar UV Radiation
INTRODUCTION
L’Oréal, an overview in 2003
100 years of expertise in cosmetics100 years of expertise in cosmetics
17 global brands17 global brands
14 billion euro consolidated sales14 billion euro consolidated sales
480 million euro invested in R&D480 million euro invested in R&D
50,500 employees50,500 employees
15% share of the global cosmetics market15% share of the global cosmetics market
3.9 billion units manufactured annually3.9 billion units manufactured annually
130 products sold every second130 products sold every second
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w.loreal.com
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w.loreal.com
COSMETICS, UNIQUE EXPERTISE
A brand portfolio that is unique in the world
RESEARCH, DRIVING GROWTH
More than 500 patents filed per yearMore than 500 patents filed per year
8 research centers in Europe, 3 in North America 8 research centers in Europe, 3 in North America and 3 in Asiaand 3 in Asia
3 evaluation centers in Europe, 4 in America and 3 evaluation centers in Europe, 4 in America and 3 in Asia3 in Asia
480-million-euro R&D budget480-million-euro R&D budget
2,900 staff members2,900 staff members
1/3 of the R&D budget is earmarked for advanced research1/3 of the R&D budget is earmarked for advanced research
Numerous scientific papers in peer-reviewed journals Numerous scientific papers in peer-reviewed journals and presentations in congressand presentations in congress
Hair and skin occupy a special placeHair and skin occupy a special placeon the surface of the human body, inon the surface of the human body, indirect contact with the environment.direct contact with the environment.
Their diversity and the alterationsTheir diversity and the alterationsthey may show are partly linked tothey may show are partly linked toclimate and pollution.climate and pollution.
African skin
Chinese skin
European skin
Motivation for participating in the project Motivation for participating in the project (background) 1/2(background) 1/2
Exposure to solar radiation can have severeExposure to solar radiation can have severeconsequences:consequences:
Skin: erythema, ageing, dryness, immunodeficiency, Skin: erythema, ageing, dryness, immunodeficiency, allergies, pigmentation, wrinkles...allergies, pigmentation, wrinkles...
Hair: protein and lipid oxidation, with consequences on Hair: protein and lipid oxidation, with consequences on the cosmetic aspect and properties (fragility).the cosmetic aspect and properties (fragility).
The UltraViolet waveband of the solar spectrumThe UltraViolet waveband of the solar spectrumis involved in these alterationsis involved in these alterations..
Motivation for participating in the project Motivation for participating in the project (background) 2/2(background) 2/2
UV irradiances and dosesUV irradiances and doses
Both physical (UVB, UVA) and biologically-weigthed (erythemal)Both physical (UVB, UVA) and biologically-weigthed (erythemal)
Kind of data:Kind of data:
- Climatologies- Climatologies
- Global and local maxima and averages- Global and local maxima and averages
- Time series at different locations- Time series at different locations
- Forecasts- Forecasts
INFORMATION NEEDSINFORMATION NEEDS
Too few (or geographically missing) collecting sitesToo few (or geographically missing) collecting sitesworlwideworlwide
Limited availability of data over timeLimited availability of data over time
Instrumental intercomparison is required because ofInstrumental intercomparison is required because ofdifferent:different:
- instruments- instruments
- calibration and operating procedures- calibration and operating procedures
No data on UVA radiation availableNo data on UVA radiation available
LIMITATIONS OF EXISTING INFORMATIONLIMITATIONS OF EXISTING INFORMATION
« Physical » requirements:« Physical » requirements:- Sea level- Sea level- Region: Global, but focused on populated areas- Region: Global, but focused on populated areas- Spatial resolution: 1 by 1 degree- Spatial resolution: 1 by 1 degree- Time period: climatology- Time period: climatology- Max. time delay: means for every ten days or less/more often depending on- Max. time delay: means for every ten days or less/more often depending on the variation in time of the product (a significant variation is 20 %)the variation in time of the product (a significant variation is 20 %)- (When applicable: Spectral step: 1 nm)- (When applicable: Spectral step: 1 nm)- Accuracy: better than 5%- Accuracy: better than 5%
REQUIREMENTSREQUIREMENTS
Handling of data by the end-userHandling of data by the end-user - Interactive maps and ASCII format- Interactive maps and ASCII format - Delivery method: web-page, with a user-friendly interface for a consumer- Delivery method: web-page, with a user-friendly interface for a consumer
Specifications definitionSpecifications definition Periodical follow-up Periodical follow-up
(includes attending to (includes attending to meetings)meetings)
Feed-back:Feed-back:- Improvement proposals- Improvement proposals
- Related links- Related linksSub-contractor and industrial partner
on the road to success
INVOLVEMENTINVOLVEMENT
Clear-sky UV index, global and Clear-sky UV index, global and EuropeEurope
Today and 4-days forecast based on Today and 4-days forecast based on SCIAMACHY dataSCIAMACHY data
Climatologies based on GOME data, Climatologies based on GOME data, including monthly averages and yearly including monthly averages and yearly extremaextrema
PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (1/3)PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (1/3)
Erythemal UV doses:Erythemal UV doses:
Individual day data for 2004Individual day data for 2004
(SCIAMACHY)(SCIAMACHY)
Climatologies, 1995-2003, fromClimatologies, 1995-2003, from
GOME dataGOME data
PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (2/3)PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (2/3)
On-line helpOn-line help
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is.nlw
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PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (3/3)PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (3/3)
Comparisons with published models and local Comparisons with published models and local ground measuresground measures
Ease of use / care of specificationsEase of use / care of specifications
Assistance quality:Assistance quality:- relevance- relevance- full answer- full answer- delay- delay
ASSESSMENTASSESSMENT
Complementary productsComplementary products
- Interactive maps- Interactive maps- UV-index and UV doses results after may 2003 (i.e. based on SCIAMACHY):- UV-index and UV doses results after may 2003 (i.e. based on SCIAMACHY): Yearly averages and extrema, monthly averages and climatologies, both for Yearly averages and extrema, monthly averages and climatologies, both for global and areas of interestglobal and areas of interest
EXPECTATIONS FOR THE REMAINDER EXPECTATIONS FOR THE REMAINDER IN THE PROJECTIN THE PROJECT
Implementation of UVA dataImplementation of UVA data
Delays for the availability of time seriesDelays for the availability of time series
Information whether such improvements can be achieved:Information whether such improvements can be achieved:- High spatial resolution: 10 x 10 km- High spatial resolution: 10 x 10 km- Spectral irradiance for the waveband 280-1100 nm- Spectral irradiance for the waveband 280-1100 nm
Improve the relevance of indoor tests:Improve the relevance of indoor tests:
Mimic actual UV spectra in solar Mimic actual UV spectra in solar simulatorssimulators
Fine-tune the doses delivered in:Fine-tune the doses delivered in:• internal tests,internal tests,• sub-contractors laboratories,sub-contractors laboratories,• studies made within scientific collaborationstudies made within scientific collaboration
Provide cosmetic products customised Provide cosmetic products customised to consumer needs, worldwideto consumer needs, worldwide
PLANS FOR THE USE OF EO-SERVICES PLANS FOR THE USE OF EO-SERVICES AFTER THE PROJECT (1/2)AFTER THE PROJECT (1/2)
Help our scientific communication:Help our scientific communication:
To provide To provide servicesservices that rely on high-technology work, that rely on high-technology work, and thus take a lead over competitorsand thus take a lead over competitors
To convince people about the To convince people about the benefits of UV benefits of UV photoprotectionphotoprotection
• Here is what your lovely, healthy skin looks like when not Here is what your lovely, healthy skin looks like when not exposed exposed (waow)(waow)
• Here are the UV doses you may receive Here are the UV doses you may receive (ouch)(ouch)
• Here is the biological damage when exposed to these Here is the biological damage when exposed to these doses doses (argh)(argh)
• When you apply a right product, your skin (hairs) is When you apply a right product, your skin (hairs) is protected protected (phew)(phew)
PLANS FOR THE USE OF EO-SERVICES PLANS FOR THE USE OF EO-SERVICES AFTER THE PROJECT (2/2)AFTER THE PROJECT (2/2)
L’Oréal and ESA/KNMI:L’Oréal and ESA/KNMI:
A state-of-the-art scientific collaboration…A state-of-the-art scientific collaboration…
……because you’re worth itbecause you’re worth it!!
CONCLUSIONCONCLUSION