FREE Printable Entry Bench Instructions

7/28/2019 FREE Printable Entry Bench Instructions

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Instructions

Start with the CaseStep 1

Decide whether to build the project as shown or customize it. To add custom

touches, you can resize it to fit your home, change the wood, add mouldings

of your choice, change the paint color, use an alternate panel for the back,

and/or add drawer pulls and coat hooks that fit your decor.

Good to Know

When painting a project, you get a lot more trim and wood options with the

variety of different shapes available in the different wood species because the

paint makes it all look the same. We used birch, pine, and poplar in this

project. You can also substitute MDF instead of birch plywood.

Step 2

Cut the 3/4-inch-thick plywood panels for the sides (A) and shelves (B)

(Project Diagram and Cutting Diagram). A straightedge and a handheld

circular saw are all you need to make the cuts. Use a blade with at least 40

teeth for the best results. Sand the cut panels with 150-grit sandpaper.

Step 3

A project of this size is difficult to build on a traditional workbench. Two pairs

of 2 x 4s and a couple of sawhorses make a perfect platform. Lay a 2 x 4 cut

45-1/2 inches long (narrower than the back of the project) across each

sawhorse. Then lay two 78-inch-long 2 x 4s to span the two shorter boards.
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Screw the long 2 x 4s to the

ends of the shorter ones for a

custom workbench (Photo 1).

Step 4Lay out the locations of the

shelves on the sides (Project

Diagram, Drawing 1). The

sides are slightly wider than

the shelves, and the front

edges should be set flush to

conceal the edge of the

plywood back. Clamp together face down -- the shelves and sides will rest onthe assembly frame and create the offset at the back. Attach each shelf to one

side by drilling countersunk pilot holes and driving the screws. Repeat for the

second side.

Step 5

Verify the accuracy of every

step and make sure each

corner comes together at 90

degrees. To check for square,

measure and compare the

corner-to-corner diagonal

measurements. Shift the

cabinet until the dimensions

match before you add more

parts to the case (Photo 2).

Step 6

Cut the rails (C) to length, sand the parts, and glue them to the shelves. Cut

the stiles (D) to fit between the rails. Glue two stiles to the sides (A) and set

the third aside (you'll attach it to the back later).


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Good to Know

Hardwood plywood can run up to 1/16 inch smaller than its nominal thickness.

Always cut parts to fit as you go to ensure they fit properly without gaps.

Step 7

Cut the back (E) to size and attach. Apply a light bead of construction

adhesive to the shelvesand the stiles and rails

(because the back is

prefinished, regular wood

glue won't stick to it).

Position the back and

secure with 1-inch finish

nails (Photo 3). If you

want to vary the project

design, select a different

back to complement

other furnishings or the

room decor.

Step 8

With the help of a friend, flip the assembly face up. To install the remaining

stile, center it in the cabinet and mark the location with painter's tape.

Remove the stile, add construction adhesive to the back, and set in place

(Photo 4). Hold the stile in position with a few pieces of painter's tape while

the adhesive cures.


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The Face

Step 1

Cut the bottom rail (F) and

side trim (G) to length

(Project Diagram, Cutting

List, and Cutting Diagram).

Sand the parts, then glue and

clamp them to the cabinet

(Project Diagram, Drawing

2). The top edge of the bottom

rail and the side trim parts should be flush with the top edge of the shelf.Across the front of the cabinet, use strips of painter's tape to act as clamps to

hold the bottom rail against the shelf.

Step 2

Cut 1 x 2 material for the

base blocks (H) and gluethem to the bottom of the

case. Cut four pieces of

3/4-inch-square dowel to 5-

inches long for the feet and

trim blocks (I). On two of

the parts, cut a angle on

one end. Glue the trim

blocks under the lower rail

and the feet to the bottom

front of the cabinet (Photo

5).

Step 3


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Cut the stiles (J) to length and

temporarily clamp them in

position with painter's tape. Place

the boards for the top rail (K) andmid rail (L) against one stile, mark

the actual length of the rails

(Photo 6), and cut the rails to

length.

Step 4

Cut the eight dividers (M) to 9

inches long and drill two pocketholes on each end on the inside

face (Project Diagram, Drawing 3). Then drill three pocket holes on each

end of the top rail and two on each end of the mid rail. Set five of the dividers

aside to use for the drawer.

Step 5

Mark the locations of the dividers on the top and mid rail. Glue and clamp the

dividers to the rails.

Good to Know

Assembly methods vary with the tools you own. If you have a nail gun, no

clamps are needed. Adjust the parts alignment to ensure the face frame is

flush with the sides of the cabinet as you drive each nail. If you do not have a

nail gun, clamp the face frame in position on the case and allow the glue to

dry, adjusting the alignment as you place the clamps.

Step 6


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Verify the alignment of the parts

and drive the pocket-hole

screws (Photo 7). When the top

divider assembly is complete,glue the ends of the rails, clamp

the stiles in position on the ends

of the assembly, and drive the

remaining pocket screws to

complete the face frame.

Step 7

Sand the face frame and glue in

position on the front of the case

(Photo 8). When the glue dries,

sand the edges of the face

frame where it meets the case.

Trim

Step 1

Cut the case trim parts (N), (O),

(P), (Q), (R), (S) to length

(Project Diagram, Cutting

List). These parts will be about

two inches too long, cut a 45-

degree miter on one end of the front and one side of each of the parts.

Good to Know
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When cutting mitered parts, cut them 2 inches longer than specified so you

can custom-fit each part as you go. First cut a miter on one end of each part --

the extra length allows for a test fit and marking the exact final length.

Step 2

Place the the first set of

trim, parts (N) and (O), in

position (Project

Diagram, Drawing 4)

without glue by aligning

the parts (Photo 9). If the

joint is tight, tape the front

trim in position.

Step 3

Mark where to cut the otherend of each part (Photo 10).

Make a cut, reposition the

part using the side trim to

reset the exact location, and

secure with glue and nails.

For the side trim parts, place

them against the front trim

and mark the length. Make

the cut and secure to the

case with glue and nails.

Step 4

When the first pieces of trim


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are secured, lightly sand the parts and apply the next layer of trim using the

same process. After the glue dries, stand the cabinet on its feet.

Drawer Trim

Step 1

Cut the drawer rails (T) to length from a poplar 1 x 3. Retrieve the dividers (M)

remaining from the assembly of the face frame. Glue and screw the drawer

face frame together (Project Diagram, Drawing 5) and sand the assembled

frame.

Step 2

Cut the drawer face (U)

from 1/4-inch plywood.

The face is 2-1/2 inches

shorter than the length of

the drawer face, and 2

inches shorter than the

height. Center the panel

on the back side of the

drawer face frame -- the

side with the pocket

holes -- and secure with

glue and 3/4-inch finish

nails (Photo 11).

Step 3

Flip the drawer face over and prepare to add the drawer trim (V) (Project

Diagram, Drawing 4) by cutting 16 pieces of drawer trim to 10 inches long.

Cut a miter on one end of each part and position one piece of trim at a time


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against the drawer face to

mark the location of the

second miter so the trim

will fit into the recess

created by the face frame(Photo 12). Glue the trim

in position and repeat for

the remaining trim parts.

Step 4

Cut a poplar 1 x 8 into 4

parts for the drawer front

and back (W) and drawerends (X). Sand the parts and assemble using glue and screws (Project

Diagram, Drawing 5). Cut a piece of 1/4-inch plywood for the drawer bottom

(Y) and secure with glue and nails.

Step 5

To install the drawer

glides, cut a 3/4-inch-thick

spacer and set in the

cabinet (Photo 13).

Secure the cabinet halves

of the drawer glides in the

assembly with their front

ends inset 1/4 inch from

the front edge of the sides

(A) and resting on thespacer (Project Diagram,

Drawing 4). On the

drawer box, screw the

remaining drawer

hardware on the bottom


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so the hardware is flush to the front of the drawer. The 1/4-inch difference

between the hardware in the cabinet and on the drawer allows the drawer

face (U) to be attached later to recess into the cabinet.

Step 6

Slide the drawer into the

cabinet. Apply two strips of

double-faced carpet tape to the

drawer front (W). Lay quarters

on the feet (I) to serve as

spacers and press the drawerfront against the drawer box

(Photo 14). This will space the

drawer off the feet so it will

open and close smoothly.

Step 7

Open the drawer, drill

countersunk pilot holes through the drawer box into the dividers, and screw

the front to the box.

Finish and Final Assembly

Step 1

Locate the drawer glides on the drawer face (Project Diagram, Drawing 4),

drill holes for the screws, and attach the pulls.

Step 2

Cut the back brace (Z) to length and attach to the back of the cabinet, the top

of the brace should be 21-1/2 inches from the top of the cabinet. Use

construction adhesive to attach the brace and temporarily clamp it to the

cabinet while the adhesive cures.


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Step 3

Attach the garment hooks to the back (E), driving screws through the hooks

and back and into the back brace.

Step 4Remove all of the installed hardware before painting. Use a hammer and nail

set to drive any exposed nails slightly below the surface of the wood. Fill the

holes and any small gaps with a sandable wood filler. When the filler dries,

lightly sand the entire project and soften any sharp edges with 220-grit

sandpaper.

Step 5

Apply a primer, lightly sand the primer when it dries, and then apply two coats

of semigloss paint. After the paint cures for 48 hours, re-install the hardware

and put the project to use in your home!

Instructions

Start with the Case

Step 1





Good to Know




12/27



Step 2


(Project Diagram and Cutting Diagram). A straightedge and a handheld

circular saw are all you need to make the cuts. Use a blade with at least 40


Step 3





Screw the long 2 x 4s to the ends of the shorter ones for a custom workbench

(Photo 1).

Step 4Lay out the locations of the shelves on the sides (Project Diagram, Drawing

1). The sides are slightly wider than the shelves, and the front edges should

be set flush to conceal the edge of the plywood back. Clamp together face

down -- the shelves and sides will rest on the assembly frame and create the

offset at the back. Attach each shelf to one side by drilling countersunk pilot

holes and driving the screws. Repeat for the second side.

Step 5

Verify the accuracy of every step and make sure each corner comes together

at 90 degrees. To check for square, measure and compare the corner-to-


13/27

corner diagonal measurements. Shift the cabinet until the dimensions match

before you add more parts to the case (Photo 2).

Step 6

Cut the rails (C) to length, sand the parts, and glue them to the shelves. Cutthe stiles (D) to fit between the rails. Glue two stiles to the sides (A) and set


Good to Know



Step 7


adhesive to the shelves and the stiles and rails (because the back is

prefinished, regular wood glue won't stick to it). Position the back and secure

with 1-inch finish nails (Photo 3). If you want to vary the project design, select

a different back to complement other furnishings or the room decor.

Step 8


stile, center it in the cabinet and mark the location with painter's tape.Remove the stile, add construction adhesive to the back, and set in place


the adhesive cures.


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The Face

Step 1

Cut the bottom rail (F) and side trim (G) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting

List, and Cutting Diagram). Sand the parts, then glue and clamp them to thecabinet (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). The top edge of the bottom rail and

the side trim parts should be flush with the top edge of the shelf. Across the

front of the cabinet, use strips of painter's tape to act as clamps to hold the

bottom rail against the shelf.

Step 2

Cut 1 x 2 material for the base blocks (H) and glue them to the bottom of the

case. Cut four pieces of 3/4-inch-square dowel to 5-inches long for the feet

and trim blocks (I). On two of the parts, cut a angle on one end. Glue the trim

blocks under the lower rail and the feet to the bottom front of the cabinet

(Photo 5).

Step 3

Cut the stiles (J) to length and temporarily clamp them in position with

painter's tape. Place the boards for the top rail (K) and mid rail (L) against one

stile, mark the actual length of the rails (Photo 6), and cut the rails to length.

Step 4

Cut the eight dividers (M) to 9 inches long and drill two pocket holes on each

end on the inside face (Project Diagram, Drawing 3). Then drill three pocket

holes on each end of the top rail and two on each end of the mid rail. Set fiveof the dividers aside to use for the drawer.

Step 5


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Good to Know






Step 6

Verify the alignment of the parts and drive the pocket-hole screws (Photo 7).

When the top divider assembly is complete, glue the ends of the rails, clamp

the stiles in position on the ends of the assembly, and drive the remaining

pocket screws to complete the face frame.

Step 7

Sand the face frame and glue in position on the front of the case (Photo 8).

When the glue dries, sand the edges of the face frame where it meets the

case.

Trim

Step 1Cut the case trim parts (N), (O), (P), (Q), (R), (S) to length (Project Diagram,

Cutting List). These parts will be about two inches too long, cut a 45-degree

miter on one end of the front and one side of each of the parts.

Good to Know


16/27




Step 2

Place the the first set of trim, parts (N) and (O), in position (Project Diagram,

Drawing 4) without glue by aligning the parts (Photo 9). If the joint is tight,

tape the front trim in position.

Step 3

Mark where to cut the other end of each part (Photo 10). Make a cut,

reposition the part using the side trim to reset the exact location, and secure

with glue and nails. For the side trim parts, place them against the front trim

and mark the length. Make the cut and secure to the case with glue and nails.

Step 4

When the first pieces of trim are secured, lightly sand the parts and apply the

next layer of trim using the same process. After the glue dries, stand the

cabinet on its feet.

Drawer TrimStep 1




frame.


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Step 2

Cut the drawer face (U) from 1/4-inch plywood. The face is 2-1/2 inches

shorter than the length of the drawer face, and 2 inches shorter than the

height. Center the panel on the back side of the drawer face frame -- the side

with the pocket holes -- and secure with glue and 3/4-inch finish nails (Photo

11).

Step 3



Cut a miter on one end of each part and position one piece of trim at a time

against the drawer face to mark the location of the second miter so the trim

will fit into the recess created by the face frame (Photo 12). Glue the trim in

position and repeat for the remaining trim parts.

Step 4

Cut a poplar 1 x 8 into 4 parts for the drawer front and back (W) and drawerends (X). Sand the parts and assemble using glue and screws (Project



Step 5

To install the drawer glides, cut a 3/4-inch-thick spacer and set in the cabinet(Photo 13). Secure the cabinet halves of the drawer glides in the assembly

with their front ends inset 1/4 inch from the front edge of the sides (A) and

resting on the spacer (Project Diagram, Drawing 4). On the drawer box,

screw the remaining drawer hardware on the bottom so the hardware is flush

to the front of the drawer. The 1/4-inch difference between the hardware in the


18/27

cabinet and on the drawer allows the drawer face (U) to be attached later to

recess into the cabinet.

Step 6

Slide the drawer into the cabinet. Apply two strips of double-faced carpet tape

to the drawer front (W). Lay quarters on the feet (I) to serve as spacers and

press the drawer front against the drawer box (Photo 14). This will space the

drawer off the feet so it will open and close smoothly.

Step 7

Open the drawer, drill countersunk pilot holes through the drawer box into thedividers, and screw the front to the box.


Step 1



Step 2

Cut the back brace (Z) to length and attach to the back of the cabinet, the top

Instructions

Start with the Case

Step 1




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19/27

Good to Know





Step 2


(Project Diagram and Cutting Diagram). A straightedge and a handheldcircular saw are all you need to make the cuts. Use a blade with at least 40


Step 3





Screw the long 2 x 4s to the ends of the shorter ones for a custom workbench

(Photo 1).

Step 4

Lay out the locations of the shelves on the sides (Project Diagram, Drawing

1). The sides are slightly wider than the shelves, and the front edges should

be set flush to conceal the edge of the plywood back. Clamp together face

down -- the shelves and sides will rest on the assembly frame and create the

offset at the back. Attach each shelf to one side by drilling countersunk pilot

holes and driving the screws. Repeat for the second side.

Step 5


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Verify the accuracy of every step and make sure each corner comes together

at 90 degrees. To check for square, measure and compare the corner-to-

corner diagonal measurements. Shift the cabinet until the dimensions matchbefore you add more parts to the case (Photo 2).

Step 6

Cut the rails (C) to length, sand the parts, and glue them to the shelves. Cut

the stiles (D) to fit between the rails. Glue two stiles to the sides (A) and set


Good to Know



Step 7


adhesive to the shelves and the stiles and rails (because the back is

prefinished, regular wood glue won't stick to it). Position the back and secure

with 1-inch finish nails (Photo 3). If you want to vary the project design, select

a different back to complement other furnishings or the room decor.

Step 8


stile, center it in the cabinet and mark the location with painter's tape.

Remove the stile, add construction adhesive to the back, and set in place


21/27


the adhesive cures.

The Face

Step 1

Cut the bottom rail (F) and side trim (G) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting

List, and Cutting Diagram). Sand the parts, then glue and clamp them to the

cabinet (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). The top edge of the bottom rail and

the side trim parts should be flush with the top edge of the shelf. Across the

front of the cabinet, use strips of painter's tape to act as clamps to hold the

bottom rail against the shelf.

Step 2

Cut 1 x 2 material for the base blocks (H) and glue them to the bottom of the

case. Cut four pieces of 3/4-inch-square dowel to 5-inches long for the feet

and trim blocks (I). On two of the parts, cut a angle on one end. Glue the trim

blocks under the lower rail and the feet to the bottom front of the cabinet

(Photo 5).

Step 3

Cut the stiles (J) to length and temporarily clamp them in position with

painter's tape. Place the boards for the top rail (K) and mid rail (L) against one

stile, mark the actual length of the rails (Photo 6), and cut the rails to length.

Step 4

Cut the eight dividers (M) to 9 inches long and drill two pocket holes on each

end on the inside face (Project Diagram, Drawing 3). Then drill three pocket

holes on each end of the top rail and two on each end of the mid rail. Set five

of the dividers aside to use for the drawer.


22/27

Step 5



Good to Know






Step 6

Verify the alignment of the parts and drive the pocket-hole screws (Photo 7).

When the top divider assembly is complete, glue the ends of the rails, clamp

the stiles in position on the ends of the assembly, and drive the remaining

pocket screws to complete the face frame.

Step 7

Sand the face frame and glue in position on the front of the case (Photo 8).

When the glue dries, sand the edges of the face frame where it meets the

case.

Trim

Step 1


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Cut the case trim parts (N), (O), (P), (Q), (R), (S) to length (Project Diagram,

Cutting List). These parts will be about two inches too long, cut a 45-degree

miter on one end of the front and one side of each of the parts.

Good to Know




Step 2

Place the the first set of trim, parts (N) and (O), in position (Project Diagram,

Drawing 4) without glue by aligning the parts (Photo 9). If the joint is tight,

tape the front trim in position.

Step 3

Mark where to cut the other end of each part (Photo 10). Make a cut,

reposition the part using the side trim to reset the exact location, and secure

with glue and nails. For the side trim parts, place them against the front trim

and mark the length. Make the cut and secure to the case with glue and nails.

Step 4

When the first pieces of trim are secured, lightly sand the parts and apply thenext layer of trim using the same process. After the glue dries, stand the

cabinet on its feet.

Drawer Trim


24/27

Step 1




frame.

Step 2

Cut the drawer face (U) from 1/4-inch plywood. The face is 2-1/2 inches

shorter than the length of the drawer face, and 2 inches shorter than the

height. Center the panel on the back side of the drawer face frame -- the side

with the pocket holes -- and secure with glue and 3/4-inch finish nails (Photo

11).

Step 3



Cut a miter on one end of each part and position one piece of trim at a timeagainst the drawer face to mark the location of the second miter so the trim

will fit into the recess created by the face frame (Photo 12). Glue the trim in

position and repeat for the remaining trim parts.

Step 4

Cut a poplar 1 x 8 into 4 parts for the drawer front and back (W) and drawer

ends (X). Sand the parts and assemble using glue and screws (Project



Step 5


25/27

To install the drawer glides, cut a 3/4-inch-thick spacer and set in the cabinet

(Photo 13). Secure the cabinet halves of the drawer glides in the assembly

with their front ends inset 1/4 inch from the front edge of the sides (A) and

resting on the spacer (Project Diagram, Drawing 4). On the drawer box,

screw the remaining drawer hardware on the bottom so the hardware is flushto the front of the drawer. The 1/4-inch difference between the hardware in the

cabinet and on the drawer allows the drawer face (U) to be attached later to

recess into the cabinet.

Step 6

Slide the drawer into the cabinet. Apply two strips of double-faced carpet tapeto the drawer front (W). Lay quarters on the feet (I) to serve as spacers and

press the drawer front against the drawer box (Photo 14). This will space the

drawer off the feet so it will open and close smoothly.

Step 7

Open the drawer, drill countersunk pilot holes through the drawer box into the

dividers, and screw the front to the box.


Step 1



Step 2

Cut the back brace (Z) to length and attach to the back of the cabinet, the topof the brace should be 21-1/2 inches from the top of the cabinet. Use



Step 3


26/27

Attach the garment hooks to the back (E), driving screws through the hooks


Step 4

Remove all of the installed hardware before painting. Use a hammer and nailset to drive any exposed nails slightly below the surface of the wood. Fill the


lightly sand the entire project and soften any sharp edges with 220-grit

sandpaper.

Step 5


of semigloss paint. After the paint cures for 48 hours, re-install the hardwareand put the project to use in your home!

of the brace should be 21-1/2 inches from the top of the cabinet. Use



Step 3Attach the garment hooks to the back (E), driving screws through the hooks


Step 4

Remove all of the installed hardware before painting. Use a hammer and nail

set to drive any exposed nails slightly below the surface of the wood. Fill the


lightly sand the entire project and soften any sharp edges with 220-gritsandpaper.

Step 5


27/27


of semigloss paint. After the paint cures for 48 hours, re-install the hardware

and put the project to use in your home!

Documents

FREE Printable Entry Bench Instructions