From the Dirt to the Skin A Fundamental Presentation A Study of Pigment by Elizabeth Finch-Howell, CPCP Copyright 2008. All rights reserved

From the Dirt to the SkinFrom the Dirt to the Skin

A Fundamental PresentationA Fundamental Presentation

A Study of Pigmentby

Elizabeth Finch-Howell, CPCPCopyright 2008. All rights reserved.

Permanent Cosmetics In ReversePermanent Cosmetics In Reverse

Earth’s Minerals as a Colorant Earth’s Minerals as a Colorant SourceSource

Earth’s colored minerals Earth’s colored minerals have been used have been used constantly throughout constantly throughout human history. human history.

Earth’s Minerals as a Colorant Earth’s Minerals as a Colorant SourceSource

Used by all Used by all civilizations, earths civilizations, earths colors lend colors lend themselves to a wide themselves to a wide range of uses from range of uses from decorating the body decorating the body to painting a wallto painting a wall. .

Two examples of ochre

Blue Black

Natural and Synthetic Natural and Synthetic Pigments and DyesPigments and Dyes

Different Colored ParticulatesDifferent Colored Particulates

This “pile” of colored This “pile” of colored particulates represents particulates represents the gamut of colorant the gamut of colorant powders.powders.

Inorganic, organic, dyes – Inorganic, organic, dyes – pigment and dyes pigment and dyes colorant powders.colorant powders.

Some of these powders Some of these powders are natural (not are natural (not chemically altered,) some chemically altered,) some are synthetic (chemically are synthetic (chemically produced.)produced.)

Colorants

Regardless of the Regardless of the product, colorants used product, colorants used for food, drugs, and for food, drugs, and cosmetics are derived cosmetics are derived from the FDA’s list by from the FDA’s list by reputable manufactures.reputable manufactures.

Whether taking a pill, Whether taking a pill, eating a steak, applying eating a steak, applying traditional makeup, or traditional makeup, or performing permanent performing permanent cosmetics, the FDA’s cosmetics, the FDA’s color additive (colorant) color additive (colorant) listing is the source.listing is the source.

Pill colorants

Food colorants

Cosmetic colorantsPermanent cosmetic colorants

FDA Color Additive ListsFDA Color Additive Lists

The FDA refers to their approved list for safe The FDA refers to their approved list for safe colors as “color additives.” This term is colors as “color additives.” This term is synonymous with “colorants.” Don’t let the two synonymous with “colorants.” Don’t let the two different words cause confusion.different words cause confusion.

All color additives (colorants) approved by the All color additives (colorants) approved by the FDA for use in foods, drugs, and cosmetics are FDA for use in foods, drugs, and cosmetics are listed on three tables.listed on three tables.

Colorants approved for use in Colorants approved for use in foods foods are on are on table table 1.1.

Colorants approved for use in Colorants approved for use in drugs drugs are on are on table 2.table 2.

Colorants approved for use in Colorants approved for use in cosmetics cosmetics areare on on table 3.table 3.

FDA Color Additive (Colorant) FDA Color Additive (Colorant) Approved ListingsApproved Listings

Each table has two general categories:Each table has two general categories:

1. Color additives (colorants) 1. Color additives (colorants) exemptexempt fromfrom certificationcertification

2. Color additives (colorants) 2. Color additives (colorants) subject tosubject to certificationcertification

FDA’s Approved Color Additive FDA’s Approved Color Additive (Colorant) Listings(Colorant) Listings

When these tables are compared, the drug When these tables are compared, the drug and cosmetic’s charts are identical with the and cosmetic’s charts are identical with the exception of an acid violet #43.exception of an acid violet #43.

Other than this one exception, there is Other than this one exception, there is no no difference difference between pharmaceutical (drug) between pharmaceutical (drug) grade color additives (colorants) and grade color additives (colorants) and cosmetic grade color additives (colorants.)cosmetic grade color additives (colorants.)

The Permanent Cosmetic The Permanent Cosmetic Standard for Safe ColorantsStandard for Safe Colorants

Reputable pigment manufacturers use the Reputable pigment manufacturers use the FDA’s food, drug, and cosmetic color additive FDA’s food, drug, and cosmetic color additive listings as a standard for safe colorants.listings as a standard for safe colorants.

These products, which include bothThese products, which include both pigmentspigments,, andand dyesdyes ((inorganicsinorganics, , naturalnatural organicsorganics and syntheticand synthetic chemicalchemical organics,) organics,) represent a unique and special category of represent a unique and special category of colorants.colorants.

These colorants have historically been These colorants have historically been subject to stringent regulatory requirements subject to stringent regulatory requirements and legislative scrutiny. and legislative scrutiny.

ColorantsColorants

Color additives (colorants) for food, drug, Color additives (colorants) for food, drug, and cosmetic uses encompass many and cosmetic uses encompass many colorants of both natural pigments and colorants of both natural pigments and dyes, and synthetic pigments and dyes. dyes, and synthetic pigments and dyes.

A Study of Terminology -A Study of Terminology -PigmentsPigments

The Dry Color Manufacturers Association The Dry Color Manufacturers Association (DCMA) defines a pigment as:(DCMA) defines a pigment as:

A colored, black, white, or fluorescent A colored, black, white, or fluorescent particulate organic or inorganic particulate organic or inorganic solid. solid.

These solids are usually insoluble in, and These solids are usually insoluble in, and essentially physically and chemically essentially physically and chemically unaffected by, the vehicle or substrate into unaffected by, the vehicle or substrate into which it is incorporated.which it is incorporated.

A Study of Terminology -A Study of Terminology -DyesDyes

Dyes are soluble colored compounds Dyes are soluble colored compounds suspended in a medium.suspended in a medium.

Pigments and DyesPigments and DyesReviewReview

Pigments are insoluble. Pigments are insoluble. They are not affected by They are not affected by what is mixed into them. what is mixed into them. They do not dissolve.They do not dissolve.

Dyes are soluble. They are Dyes are soluble. They are affected by what is mixed affected by what is mixed into them. They dissolve into them. They dissolve into another substance. into another substance. Dyes have a propensity to Dyes have a propensity to temporarily stain the skin temporarily stain the skin they are put into.they are put into.

Characteristics of Dye Content -Characteristics of Dye Content -Eyebrow ProceduresEyebrow Procedures

If you consistently see a If you consistently see a harsh stain-like image harsh stain-like image of the eyebrow design of the eyebrow design many years after the many years after the original procedure, original procedure, likely a dye was likely a dye was included in the formula.included in the formula.

Characteristics of a Pigment -Characteristics of a Pigment -Eyebrow ProceduresEyebrow Procedures

With some allowance With some allowance for skin undertone for skin undertone variances over time variances over time and the right pigment and the right pigment having been applied having been applied to the right to the right undertone, pigments undertone, pigments in general should fade in general should fade to a lighter version of to a lighter version of the original color.the original color.

After original procedures healed,Eyebrows and eyeliner.

Two and one half years later


This is not to say that all undesirable This is not to say that all undesirable residual eyebrow pigment is a result of a residual eyebrow pigment is a result of a dye product in the formulation.dye product in the formulation.. . Usually it Usually it is not.is not.

The The possibilitypossibility of a dye product being of a dye product being responsible is only one of several possible responsible is only one of several possible causes. A few others are:causes. A few others are:

an inferior quality pigment.an inferior quality pigment. a change over time of skin undertone (to a change over time of skin undertone (to

a cooler typed skin undertone.)a cooler typed skin undertone.)


Overworking the tissue and causing scar Overworking the tissue and causing scar tissue which results in a cooler undertone tissue which results in a cooler undertone affecting the implanted pigment affecting the implanted pigment appearance.appearance.

A warm pigment was applied to a warm A warm pigment was applied to a warm skin undertone or a cool pigment to a cool skin undertone or a cool pigment to a cool undertone resulting in unnatural fading undertone resulting in unnatural fading properties.properties.

InorganicInorganic PigmentPigment ColorantsColorants

A Study of Terminology –A Study of Terminology –Inorganic Pigment ColorantsInorganic Pigment Colorants

The definition of an inorganic pigment The definition of an inorganic pigment colorant is:colorant is:

Naturally mined or synthetic (chemical) colorant Naturally mined or synthetic (chemical) colorant such as metallic oxide, sulfide, and other salts. such as metallic oxide, sulfide, and other salts.

INORGANIC PIGMENTINORGANIC PIGMENT

Iron OxidesIron Oxides Titanium DioxideTitanium Dioxide Extender PigmentsExtender Pigments Ultramarine PigmentsUltramarine Pigments Manganese VioletManganese Violet Mixed Metal Oxide PigmentsMixed Metal Oxide Pigments Fluorescent PigmentsFluorescent Pigments

Scientific Examples of Inorganic Scientific Examples of Inorganic Pigment ColorantsPigment Colorants

Iron oxides– has iron in its compositionIron oxides– has iron in its composition

Titanium dioxides– has titanium in its Titanium dioxides– has titanium in its compositioncomposition

Ultramarine – has an aluminum salt in its Ultramarine – has an aluminum salt in its compositioncomposition

Manganese violet – has manganese in its Manganese violet – has manganese in its compositioncomposition

Practical Examples of Inorganic Practical Examples of Inorganic PigmentsPigments

Iron oxide – Derma International 10C Iron oxide – Derma International 10C Covida Brown (raw umber) eyebrow Covida Brown (raw umber) eyebrow pigmentpigment

Titanium dioxide – Derma Internation #19 Titanium dioxide – Derma Internation #19 White manufacturing mixing pigmentWhite manufacturing mixing pigment

Ultramarine – Derma International #14D Ultramarine – Derma International #14D Dark Blue for eyelinerDark Blue for eyeliner

Manganese violet – Derma International Manganese violet – Derma International 27M Magenta for lip color mixing27M Magenta for lip color mixing

Exempt from CertificationExempt from Certification

Under the color Additives Amendments of Under the color Additives Amendments of 1960, the Commissioner of the Food and Drug 1960, the Commissioner of the Food and Drug Administration has the authority to exempt Administration has the authority to exempt color additives from the batch certification color additives from the batch certification process .process .

This is an action taken when he or she believes This is an action taken when he or she believes certification of a colorant is certification of a colorant is not requirednot required to to protect the public health.protect the public health.

Exempt from FDA Batch Exempt from FDA Batch CertificationCertification

All food, drug, and cosmetic inorganic All food, drug, and cosmetic inorganic pigments known to be used by the permanent pigments known to be used by the permanent cosmetic industrycosmetic industry are onare on

the FDA’s the FDA’s exempt exempt from certification color from certification color additive (colorant) list.additive (colorant) list.

Inorganic pigments known to be used by the Inorganic pigments known to be used by the permanent cosmetic industry, when taken permanent cosmetic industry, when taken from the FDA’s approved color additive from the FDA’s approved color additive (colorant) listings are considered safe by the (colorant) listings are considered safe by the FDA and do not require batch certification.FDA and do not require batch certification.

Exempt from CertificationExempt from Certification

Although these exempt color additives Although these exempt color additives (colorants) do not require certification, they (colorants) do not require certification, they are subject to surveillance by the FDA to are subject to surveillance by the FDA to assure adherence to regulatory requirements. assure adherence to regulatory requirements.

Material Safety Data Sheets corroborate these Material Safety Data Sheets corroborate these requirements. These are known as MSD requirements. These are known as MSD sheets. Every pigment manufacturer should sheets. Every pigment manufacturer should be supplying MSD Sheets to their customers.be supplying MSD Sheets to their customers.

Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment ColorantsColorants

The The ochres, rusts, browns, ochres, rusts, browns, and reds in our rocks and and reds in our rocks and sand make up the source sand make up the source of iron oxide pigments.of iron oxide pigments.

IRON OXIDE PIGMENTIRON OXIDE PIGMENT

A transfer of A transfer of electrons from electrons from oxygen to iron oxygen to iron account for all account for all the the ochres, rusts, ochres, rusts, browns and reds browns and reds in our rocks and in our rocks and sand.sand.

Mining for Inorganic Iron Oxides Mining for Inorganic Iron Oxides ColorantsColorants


Iron oxides hold a very important place in Iron oxides hold a very important place in the pigment market because of their wide the pigment market because of their wide range of colors, stability, and nontoxic range of colors, stability, and nontoxic naturenature..

By far, iron is the most common and stable By far, iron is the most common and stable of all the elements.of all the elements.

Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment Colorant ClassificationsColorant Classifications

Iron oxides are Iron oxides are separated into four separated into four major major classifications:classifications:

BrownsBrowns RedsReds BlacksBlacks YellowsYellows


The brown, red, black, and yellow iron The brown, red, black, and yellow iron oxides that are used in the Derma lab are in oxides that are used in the Derma lab are in compliance with the FDA regulation and fall compliance with the FDA regulation and fall well below the heavy metal content limits.well below the heavy metal content limits.

Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment – Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment – BrownsBrowns

Pigment Brown #6 and #7 Pigment Brown #6 and #7 Color Index # 77499 Color Index # 77499

How are They Produced? How are They Produced?Synthetic Brown Iron Oxides are produced by Synthetic Brown Iron Oxides are produced by

three methods:three methods:

1.1. Blends of red, black, and yellow. Blends of red, black, and yellow.

2.2. Direct precipitation (remember from the Direct precipitation (remember from the reds?)reds?)

3.3. Controlled reduction of synthetic black. Controlled reduction of synthetic black. This form produces only browns at the This form produces only browns at the lighter end of the brown color spectrum.lighter end of the brown color spectrum.

A Study of Iron Oxide BrownsA Study of Iron Oxide Browns

Warm browns are the ideal

Browns that will leave pink/orange residual color

Cool browns that will leave maroon/purple residual color

Additives to Iron Oxide Brown Additives to Iron Oxide Brown ColorantsColorants

Some browns do Some browns do contain 5% carbon contain 5% carbon black.black.

A brown will A brown will always ash (fade to always ash (fade to a cooler color) as a a cooler color) as a result of the result of the addition of carbon addition of carbon black.black.

IRON OXIDE PIGMENTIRON OXIDE PIGMENT How Are They Produced?How Are They Produced?

FeFe22OO33= = Iron OxideIron Oxide

ZnO ZnO Fe Fe22OO33

= Zinc Ferrite= Zinc Ferrite

MgO MgO Fe Fe22OO33

= Magnesium = Magnesium FerriteFerrite

Although they are Although they are technically not iron oxides, technically not iron oxides, the ferrite pigments have the ferrite pigments have characteristics and chemical characteristics and chemical compositions similar to compositions similar to synthetic iron oxides and synthetic iron oxides and thus can be included in the thus can be included in the iron oxide family.iron oxide family.

Be aware that some brown Be aware that some brown pigments are actually Zinc pigments are actually Zinc and Magnesium Ferrite and Magnesium Ferrite pigments.pigments.

Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment – Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment – RedsReds

Pigment Red #101 and #102Pigment Red #101 and #102Color Index # 77491 Color Index # 77491

How are They Produced? How are They Produced?

One of the methods to One of the methods to produce red iron oxide is by produce red iron oxide is by high temperature calcining of high temperature calcining of iron sulfate to make Feiron sulfate to make Fe22OO33 (red iron oxide.)(red iron oxide.)

Calcining = Roasting at very Calcining = Roasting at very high temperatureshigh temperatures

Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment – Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment – BlacksBlacks

Mined and Synthetically Mined and Synthetically ProducedProduced

Black iron oxide may be produced in one of Black iron oxide may be produced in one of two manners.two manners.

Mined as a natural black (magnetite)Mined as a natural black (magnetite)

Synthetically producedSynthetically produced A seed nucleus of the mined natural A seed nucleus of the mined natural

black is “grown” through the black is “grown” through the precipitation process. precipitation process.

Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment – Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment – BlacksBlacks

Mined and Synthetically Mined and Synthetically ProducedProduced

One of the earliest synthetic iron oxide One of the earliest synthetic iron oxide developments, along with copperas reds, developments, along with copperas reds, were precipitated black iron oxides. were precipitated black iron oxides.

Several early patents describe methods to Several early patents describe methods to produce synthetic black iron oxide.produce synthetic black iron oxide.

The basic process has been improved over The basic process has been improved over the years and now can consistently produce the years and now can consistently produce many different grades of iron oxides having many different grades of iron oxides having high chemical purity.high chemical purity.

Synthetic Black Iron OxideSynthetic Black Iron OxidePigment Black # 11 Color Index Pigment Black # 11 Color Index

# 77499# 77499

Don’t confuse the artificial method of Don’t confuse the artificial method of reproducing black iron oxide through the reproducing black iron oxide through the precipitation process with the chemical precipitation process with the chemical production of organic pigment colorants.production of organic pigment colorants.

Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment – Inorganic Iron Oxide Pigment – Pigment Yellow #42 and #43Pigment Yellow #42 and #43

Color Index #77492 Color Index #77492

The synthetic The synthetic yellow iron oxidesyellow iron oxides have a have a narrow particle size distribution which narrow particle size distribution which enhances color purity.enhances color purity.

It is possible to produce over 10 distinct It is possible to produce over 10 distinct mass color or tint variations within the mass color or tint variations within the particle size limits. particle size limits.

Fugitive Salmon Colored EyebrowsFugitive Salmon Colored Eyebrows How Are They Produced? How Are They Produced?

The pigment formula contained incorrect The pigment formula contained incorrect undertones for the skin type.undertones for the skin type.

Possible culprit formula:Possible culprit formula: Inorganic red-brown base ( Inorganic red-brown base ( little or no little or no

brightnessbrightness) ) + + organic yellow ( organic yellow ( brightbright and will fade faster )and will fade faster )

= salmon/orange.= salmon/orange.

Purple LipsPurple Lips

Original lip formula was incorrect for the Original lip formula was incorrect for the lip color it was placed into.lip color it was placed into.

Blue based inorganic (little or no Blue based inorganic (little or no brightness,) +organic (bright,) lip brightness,) +organic (bright,) lip pigments = purple lip.pigments = purple lip.

Organic and Inorganic Pigment Organic and Inorganic Pigment LifespanLifespan

Organic Pigment

Inorganic Pigment

Titanium DioxideTitanium DioxidePigment White #6 -- Color Index Pigment White #6 -- Color Index

7789177891

Titanium Dioxide is the most Titanium Dioxide is the most important white pigment important white pigment currently produced commercially. currently produced commercially.

The pigment is used in a wide The pigment is used in a wide

range of applications including range of applications including inks, textiles, paper, paints, food, inks, textiles, paper, paints, food, and pharmaceuticals.and pharmaceuticals.

Titanium DioxideTitanium DioxidePigment White 6 -- Color Index Pigment White 6 -- Color Index

7789177891

Pure titanium dioxide (TiOPure titanium dioxide (TiO22) is ) is stable, nonvolatile, and largely stable, nonvolatile, and largely insoluble.insoluble.

It is the ninth most abundant It is the ninth most abundant element present in the earth’s element present in the earth’s crust—more common than crust—more common than copper, lead and tin.copper, lead and tin.

TITANIUM DIOXIDETITANIUM DIOXIDEPigment White 6 -- Color Index 77891Pigment White 6 -- Color Index 77891

Titanium Dioxide pigments are currently Titanium Dioxide pigments are currently manufactured by two processes.manufactured by two processes.

In the older, though still widely used, In the older, though still widely used, sulfate process, low-grade titanium-sulfate process, low-grade titanium-bearing ore is reacted with sulfuric acid to bearing ore is reacted with sulfuric acid to produce titanyl sulfate.produce titanyl sulfate.

It is then hydrolyzed to form titanium It is then hydrolyzed to form titanium hydroxidehydroxide. .


This hydroxide is then dehydrated during a This hydroxide is then dehydrated during a process called calcination to produce the process called calcination to produce the crystalline pigment titanium dioxide.crystalline pigment titanium dioxide.

The more modern chloride process involves The more modern chloride process involves the reaction of a relatively pure titanium-the reaction of a relatively pure titanium-bearing ore with gaseous chlorine to bearing ore with gaseous chlorine to produce titanium tetrachloride. produce titanium tetrachloride.

After distillation, the tetrachloride is After distillation, the tetrachloride is oxidized to produce titanium dioxide.oxidized to produce titanium dioxide.


Titanium Dioxide Titanium Dioxide (TiO(TiO22) is ) is polymorphous—polymorphous—existing in two existing in two fundamental crystal fundamental crystal forms: forms:

Tetragonal rutileTetragonal rutile Tetragonal anataseTetragonal anatase


The rutile crystal The rutile crystal has a more has a more compact compact structure, a structure, a higher refractive higher refractive index, greater index, greater stability and stability and higher density higher density than the anatase than the anatase form.form.

Rutile Crystal

Titanium DioxideTitanium DioxidePigment White 6 -- Color Index Pigment White 6 -- Color Index

7789177891

Titanium Dioxide pigment has a high Titanium Dioxide pigment has a high lightfastness (ranging between 6-8) and lightfastness (ranging between 6-8) and bleed resistance (ranging between 4-5.)bleed resistance (ranging between 4-5.)

What does lightfastness and bleed What does lightfastness and bleed resistance mean to a permanent cosmetic resistance mean to a permanent cosmetic professional? We shall see why a little professional? We shall see why a little later on.later on.


There is another white pigment on There is another white pigment on the FDA accepted colorant chart - the FDA accepted colorant chart - Pigment White 26 -color index 77718, Pigment White 26 -color index 77718, also known as Magnesium Silicate.also known as Magnesium Silicate.

This is a TALC used in cosmetics, This is a TALC used in cosmetics, ceramics, paper and paint, ceramics, paper and paint, but should but should never be used in tattoo pigment.never be used in tattoo pigment.

EXTENDER PIGMENTSEXTENDER PIGMENTS(Mineral Fillers)(Mineral Fillers)

Mineral fillers have traditionally Mineral fillers have traditionally been perceived as cheap materials been perceived as cheap materials used to add bulk to a material that used to add bulk to a material that is much more expensive and to is much more expensive and to dilute is without losing its desired dilute is without losing its desired properties.properties.


Fillers have become increasingly more Fillers have become increasingly more sophisticated. sophisticated.

The principal mineral fillers are The principal mineral fillers are calcium carbonate, kaolin (aluminum calcium carbonate, kaolin (aluminum silicate), talc, and various other forms silicate), talc, and various other forms of silica. of silica.


Other fillers are barite, mica, and Other fillers are barite, mica, and nonkaolin clays such as bentonite, nonkaolin clays such as bentonite, feldspar, nepheline syenite, feldspar, nepheline syenite, gypsum, vermiculite and gypsum, vermiculite and wollastonite (calcium metasilicate.)wollastonite (calcium metasilicate.)


It should be noted that all these It should be noted that all these minerals are white, or at least off-minerals are white, or at least off-white.white.

It also should be noted that It also should be noted that nonenone of of these pigments are on the FDA these pigments are on the FDA Approved Color Additive Chart.Approved Color Additive Chart.

MISCELLANEOUS MIXED MISCELLANEOUS MIXED METAL METAL Oxide PigmentsOxide Pigments

Pigment Black 12 Color Index Pigment Black 12 Color Index 7754377543

Pigment Brown 33 Color Index Pigment Brown 33 Color Index 7750377503

Pigment Green 26 Color Index Pigment Green 26 Color Index 7734477344

Pigment Green 50 Color Index Pigment Green 50 Color Index 7737777377

MISCELLANEOUS MIXED MISCELLANEOUS MIXED METAL METAL Oxide PigmentsOxide Pigments

The iron browns, both the titanates The iron browns, both the titanates and the chromites, are produced by and the chromites, are produced by a calcination process. a calcination process.

Compounds of various metals Compounds of various metals required for the particular pigment required for the particular pigment are blended together. are blended together.

MISCELLANEOUS MIXED MISCELLANEOUS MIXED METALMETAL Oxide PigmentsOxide Pigments

The blend is then calcined at high The blend is then calcined at high temperatures ranging from 800° C temperatures ranging from 800° C to 1100 ° C. to 1100 ° C.

These pigments are These pigments are notnot on the on the FDA’s Color Additive Chart.FDA’s Color Additive Chart.

FLUORESCENT PIGMENTSFLUORESCENT PIGMENTS

Not on the FDA Color Additive ChartsNot on the FDA Color Additive Charts

These pigments are manufactured in These pigments are manufactured in several ways.several ways.

One method is heating stone One method is heating stone containing barium sulfate (BaSOcontaining barium sulfate (BaSO44) ) with coal producing BaS.with coal producing BaS.

FLUORESCENT PIGMENTSFLUORESCENT PIGMENTS

Another method is mixing a solution Another method is mixing a solution of zinc and cadmium sulfates and of zinc and cadmium sulfates and then the solution is transferred to a then the solution is transferred to a silica and fired at temperatures from silica and fired at temperatures from about 700° to 1000° C.about 700° to 1000° C.

These pigments are absolutely NOT These pigments are absolutely NOT for tattoo procedures.for tattoo procedures.

Inorganic Ultramarine PigmentsInorganic Ultramarine PigmentsBlue, Green, and VioletBlue, Green, and Violet

Ultramarine pigments are insoluble Ultramarine pigments are insoluble inorganic compounds that are available in inorganic compounds that are available in a wide range of blue shades, green a wide range of blue shades, green shades, violets, and pink. shades, violets, and pink.

They have been assigned the They have been assigned the color index color index number 77007 and cataloged as Pigment number 77007 and cataloged as Pigment Blue 29, Pigment Green 24, and Pigment Blue 29, Pigment Green 24, and Pigment Violet 15.Violet 15.

Inorganic Ultramarine PigmentsInorganic Ultramarine PigmentsBlue, Green, and VioletBlue, Green, and Violet

Since ultramarine pigments are nontoxic Since ultramarine pigments are nontoxic and insoluble in all solvents, their use is and insoluble in all solvents, their use is permitted and listed on the FDA Color permitted and listed on the FDA Color Additive Chart. Additive Chart.

Their lightfastness ranges between 5-8, and Their lightfastness ranges between 5-8, and bleed resistance ranges betweenbleed resistance ranges between 4-5. 4-5.

Inorganic Manganese VioletInorganic Manganese VioletPigment Violet 16 – Color Index Pigment Violet 16 – Color Index

7774277742 Manganese violet is FDA approval for Manganese violet is FDA approval for

cosmetic applications. It has excellent cosmetic applications. It has excellent lightfastness (8) and bleed resistance (5). lightfastness (8) and bleed resistance (5). Although it is manufactured at relatively Although it is manufactured at relatively high temperatures, it is not a calcined high temperatures, it is not a calcined product.product.

Also, this red-shade violet is a perfect red Also, this red-shade violet is a perfect red shade and not easily achieved by the use shade and not easily achieved by the use of other pigments.of other pigments.

Black PigmentsBlack Pigments

Also knows as:Also knows as: Pigment Black #11 = Iron OxidePigment Black #11 = Iron Oxide Lamp Black - CarbonLamp Black - Carbon Vegetable Black - CarbonVegetable Black - Carbon Furnace Black - CarbonFurnace Black - Carbon Channel Black (carbon not produced any Channel Black (carbon not produced any

longer) longer) Thermal Black- CarbonThermal Black- Carbon Bone Black - CarbonBone Black - Carbon Ivory Black - CarbonIvory Black - Carbon Vine BlackVine Black = Logwood Extract = Logwood Extract

Carbon Black PigmentsCarbon Black Pigments

Ivory BlackIvory Black

Vine BlackVine Black (Logwood)(Logwood)

Carbon Black PigmentCarbon Black Pigment

Lamp Black

Bone Black

Carbon Black PigmentsCarbon Black Pigments

Furnace BlackFurnace Black

Thermal BlackThermal Black

Vegetable BlackVegetable Black

Carbon Black PigmentCarbon Black Pigment

These are products resulting from the partial These are products resulting from the partial oxidation or thermal decomposition of liquid oxidation or thermal decomposition of liquid or gaseous hydrocarbons. or gaseous hydrocarbons.

Common practice in the industry is to add a Common practice in the industry is to add a small percentage of alkali blue (Pigment Blue small percentage of alkali blue (Pigment Blue # 56), or the more expensive copper # 56), or the more expensive copper phthalocyanine blue to black inks.phthalocyanine blue to black inks.

This increases the apparent jetness of the ink.This increases the apparent jetness of the ink.

Black PigmentBlack Pigment

That is why some That is why some blacks turn bluer blacks turn bluer than others.than others.

Black PigmentBlack PigmentNatural and Synthetic Black Iron Natural and Synthetic Black Iron

OxidesOxides

Natural and synthetic black iron oxides Natural and synthetic black iron oxides are also known as:are also known as:

Pigment Black #11 Pigment Black #11 MagnetiteMagnetite LodestoneLodestone Magnetic iron oxideMagnetic iron oxide

Black PigmentBlack PigmentNatural and Synthetic Black Iron Natural and Synthetic Black Iron

OxidesOxides

Natural Black iron oxide is ferrous ferric Natural Black iron oxide is ferrous ferric oxide; produced from magnetic ore.oxide; produced from magnetic ore.

It is non-bleeding and relatively inert.It is non-bleeding and relatively inert.

FeFe33OO44 = BLACK IRON OXIDE* = BLACK IRON OXIDE*

* Note: This chemical formula is the same * Note: This chemical formula is the same for natural and synthetic black iron for natural and synthetic black iron oxides.oxides.

Iron Oxide Black PigmentIron Oxide Black PigmentNatural and SyntheticNatural and Synthetic

Black exhibits excellent Black exhibits excellent lightfastness. lightfastness.

Compared to synthetic black Compared to synthetic black iron oxide, the natural pigment iron oxide, the natural pigment grade is a grayer black, having grade is a grayer black, having a weaker tint strength and a a weaker tint strength and a larger particle size. larger particle size.

The synthetic black is normallyThe synthetic black is normally a highly desirable black and a highly desirable black and used for pigment used for pigment manufacturing purposes.manufacturing purposes.

Light Fastness PropertiesLight Fastness Properties

Lightfastness and bleed Lightfastness and bleed resistance of each resistance of each pigment is crucial to the pigment is crucial to the procedure outcome.procedure outcome.

Lightfastness is a Lightfastness is a logarithmic measurement, logarithmic measurement, assessed on a scale of 1-8, assessed on a scale of 1-8, based on the based on the Blue Wool Blue Wool ScaleScale and may be and may be compared as follows:compared as follows:

Bleed Resistance RatingsBleed Resistance Ratings

Bleed resistance is Bleed resistance is also a logarithmic also a logarithmic scale and is scale and is assessed on a assessed on a scale of 1-5 for scale of 1-5 for changes in changes in coloration as coloration as follows:follows:

Inorganic Pigment Colorant Inorganic Pigment Colorant SummarySummary

Inorganic pigments contain metallic salts.Inorganic pigments contain metallic salts.

Inorganic pigments do not require batch Inorganic pigments do not require batch certification because the FDA does not certification because the FDA does not consider inorganic pigments risky in regard consider inorganic pigments risky in regard to public health.to public health.

Eyebrow raw umber, blues used for eyeliner, Eyebrow raw umber, blues used for eyeliner, and white used by manufacturers for mixing and white used by manufacturers for mixing purpose are all practical examples of purpose are all practical examples of inorganic pigments.inorganic pigments.

Natural Organic ColorantsNatural Organic Colorants

As a society we normally think of the word As a society we normally think of the word “organic” in relation to the way agricultural “organic” in relation to the way agricultural products such as food and fiber are grown and products such as food and fiber are grown and processed.processed.

Organic food production is based on a system Organic food production is based on a system of farming that maintains and replenishes soil of farming that maintains and replenishes soil fertility without the use of toxic and persistent fertility without the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilizers (chemicals.)pesticides and fertilizers (chemicals.)

Organic foods are minimally processed Organic foods are minimally processed without artificial ingredients, preservatives, or without artificial ingredients, preservatives, or irradiation to maintain. irradiation to maintain.


The permanent cosmetic manufacturers do The permanent cosmetic manufacturers do not use not use naturalnatural organic colorants to organic colorants to manufacturer tattoo pigments.manufacturer tattoo pigments.

This also applies to the body art tattooing This also applies to the body art tattooing industry.industry.

Natural Organic Natural Organic ColorantsColorants

The The most important reasonmost important reason that we don’t tattoo that we don’t tattoo with natural organic colorants is because:with natural organic colorants is because:

They are They are dyesdyes and they are and they are solublesoluble..

In order to make them insoluble, they would In order to make them insoluble, they would have to be combined with an extender pigment have to be combined with an extender pigment (alumina hydrate or barium sulphate)…….(alumina hydrate or barium sulphate)…….

which makes them NOT natural any longer.which makes them NOT natural any longer.


AnnattoOrange #4

TurmericNatural Yellow #3

Cochineal ExtractNatural Red #4

SaffronNatural Yellow #6

CarmelNatural Brown#10


Why are natural organic colorants not used Why are natural organic colorants not used for permanent cosmetic tattoo pigments?for permanent cosmetic tattoo pigments? 11.. The powders are outrageously The powders are outrageously

expensive and is cost prohibitive. expensive and is cost prohibitive. 2. The color variety is not available to 2. The color variety is not available to

supply the needed hues in demand.supply the needed hues in demand. As an example. there is only one natural As an example. there is only one natural

organic brown – Carmel, Natural Brown #10 on organic brown – Carmel, Natural Brown #10 on the FDA color additive list for food, drugs and the FDA color additive list for food, drugs and cosmetics.cosmetics.

Summary of Natural Organic Summary of Natural Organic PigmentsPigments

Natural organic pigments are not used by Natural organic pigments are not used by permanent cosmetic pigment permanent cosmetic pigment manufacturers.manufacturers.

Natural organic pigments are extremely Natural organic pigments are extremely costly.costly.

Natural organic pigments are limited in Natural organic pigments are limited in color range offerings. color range offerings.

Natural Organic Natural Organic ColorantsColorants

The The most important reasonmost important reason that we don’t tattoo that we don’t tattoo with natural organic colorants is because:with natural organic colorants is because:

They are They are dyesdyes and they are and they are solublesoluble..

In order to make them insoluble, they would In order to make them insoluble, they would have to be combined with an extender pigment have to be combined with an extender pigment or a substrate (alumina hydrate or barium or a substrate (alumina hydrate or barium sulphate)…….sulphate)…….

which makes them NOT natural any longer.which makes them NOT natural any longer.

What This Means to TechniciansWhat This Means to Technicians

Suppliers who advertise “organic” pigments Suppliers who advertise “organic” pigments are referring to synthetically (chemically) are referring to synthetically (chemically) produced organic pigments not produced organic pigments not natural natural sourcesource organics. organics.

They may be (in my opinion) relying on the They may be (in my opinion) relying on the misconception that all organic materials are misconception that all organic materials are without chemical processing such as in without chemical processing such as in “organically” produced aquaculture. “organically” produced aquaculture.


In reality, inorganic pigments are from a In reality, inorganic pigments are from a natural source (the earth,) organic natural source (the earth,) organic pigments are chemically manufactured for pigments are chemically manufactured for cost effective purposes and variety, whereas cost effective purposes and variety, whereas true natural organic pigments are not even true natural organic pigments are not even used in our industry. used in our industry.

A Study in Terminology - A Study in Terminology - Chemical Organic Pigment Chemical Organic Pigment

ColorantsColorants

Organic pigments are intensely Organic pigments are intensely colored, particulate organic colored, particulate organic solids.solids.

Chemical Organic PigmentsChemical Organic Pigments

Aside from the natural organics Aside from the natural organics and inorganics (metallic salts and inorganics (metallic salts pigments) today’s organic pigments) today’s organic pigments are synthetically made pigments are synthetically made up entirely of chemicals to up entirely of chemicals to mimic the bright colors of mimic the bright colors of natural organics. natural organics.

Most of these colors are dyes Most of these colors are dyes (soluble) and are combined with (soluble) and are combined with metallic salts to become metallic salts to become insoluble. insoluble.

The yellow synthetic powder mimic the bright yellow daisy.

The arrow and this statement are also synthetic organic colors (: - )

Chemical Organic PigmentChemical Organic Pigment

They are essentially They are essentially insolubleinsoluble in, and in, and physically and chemically unaffected by the physically and chemically unaffected by the vehicle, or substrate into which they are vehicle, or substrate into which they are incorporated.incorporated.

Substrates are usually colorless and either Substrates are usually colorless and either alumina hydrate or a barium sulfate.alumina hydrate or a barium sulfate.


Organic pigments are generally brighter, Organic pigments are generally brighter, richer in color, and more expensive than richer in color, and more expensive than their inorganic counterparts. their inorganic counterparts.

They are also typically less resistant They are also typically less resistant to sunlight, humidity, and chemicals.to sunlight, humidity, and chemicals.


ChemicalChemical organic pigments are organic pigments are characterized as either characterized as either TonersToners or or LakesLakes by the U.S. International Trade by the U.S. International Trade Commission.Commission.


A TONER is an organic pigment that is free A TONER is an organic pigment that is free of inorganic pigment or extenders. of inorganic pigment or extenders.

It is undiluted organic pigment with It is undiluted organic pigment with maximum tinting strength. maximum tinting strength.

Toner pigments are insoluble.Toner pigments are insoluble.


A LAKE is an organic pigment composed A LAKE is an organic pigment composed essentially of a essentially of a solublesoluble dye that has been dye that has been combined with an inorganic or organic combined with an inorganic or organic extender. extender.

Lake pigments then become Lake pigments then become insolubleinsoluble. .

- Substrate : Alumina hydrateAl2(SO4)3 + Na2CO3 + H2O CO2 + Na2SO4 + Al2O3, H2O + 2SO3

- Cation : Al3+

3RSO3Na + AlCl3 Al(RSO3)3 + 3 NaCl

LAKES Example

Alumina

Step 1Al2O12S3

(Aluminum Sulfate)+

Na2CO3

(Sodium Carbonate)

Water

Step 2

AluminaGel

WaterSolubleDye+

Water

Water soluble dyes

Step 4

Lakein

suspension

Lake

Filter

Step 3

Water+

AlCl3AluminiumChloride

Alumina+

DyeSolution

AlCl3

Manufacturing

Substrates : Alumina hydrate, Barium sulfate, Aluminum benzoate, Algae extract ...

Colors : - Water soluble dyes - natural or synthetic dyes - Widely used in foods/drugs/cosmetics, following US/JAPAN/EU regulations

Cations : - Aluminum salt (chloride, sulfate...) - Calcium salt (chloride) - Barium salt - Iron salt

LAKES

LAKES

Water soluble dyes adsorbed onto insoluble substrate

Converted into insoluble metallic salts (Al, Ba, Ca...)

Very bright shades

Moderate tinting strength (depending on dye content)

Low coverage (good transparency)

Light stability (usually poor)

Chemical stability (moderate)

Heat stability (=100°C max)

Definition

Properties


In addition to acids, alkalis, inorganic In addition to acids, alkalis, inorganic salts, and rosin, the key raw materials in salts, and rosin, the key raw materials in organic pigments are:organic pigments are:

petroleum based with:petroleum based with: benzene,toluene and xylene as the major benzene,toluene and xylene as the major

building blocks.building blocks.

CertificationCertification

All food, drug, and cosmetic All food, drug, and cosmetic chemicalchemical organic pigments and dyesorganic pigments and dyes are not onare not on the the exempt from certification list.exempt from certification list.

They are They are subject to certificationsubject to certification..

Chemical Organics are all Subject Chemical Organics are all Subject to FDA Batch Certificationto FDA Batch Certification

Synthetic chemical colorants are required to Synthetic chemical colorants are required to undergo a batch certification process by the undergo a batch certification process by the FDA.FDA.

Samples of each manufactured batch are Samples of each manufactured batch are submitted to the Color Certification Branch submitted to the Color Certification Branch of the FDA for their chemical analysis and of the FDA for their chemical analysis and confirmation that the submitted sample confirmation that the submitted sample meets published analytical requirements. meets published analytical requirements.


Chemical (synthetically produced) organics Chemical (synthetically produced) organics and dyes are considered more risky and and dyes are considered more risky and require FDA batch certificaton.require FDA batch certificaton.

CHEMICAL ORGANIC PIGMENTCHEMICAL ORGANIC PIGMENT

Chemical organic pigments can be divided Chemical organic pigments can be divided into six distinct chemical categories:into six distinct chemical categories:

MonoazoMonoazo pigments: pigments:

This group contains all the Naphthol This group contains all the Naphthol Reds, Lithol and Rubine Reds, Hansa Reds, Lithol and Rubine Reds, Hansa Yellows and Oranges, Tartrazine Lake Yellows and Oranges, Tartrazine Lake Yellows, Nickel Azo Yellows, and Yellows, Nickel Azo Yellows, and Pryazoloquinazolone Oranges and Pryazoloquinazolone Oranges and Reds.Reds.

CHEMCIAL ORGANIC PIGMENTCHEMCIAL ORGANIC PIGMENT

DisazoDisazo pigments: pigments:

This group contains all the Diarylide Yellows This group contains all the Diarylide Yellows and Oranges, the Pyrazolone Reds and and Oranges, the Pyrazolone Reds and Oranges, and the Condensation Yellows, Oranges, and the Condensation Yellows, Reds, Browns, and Oranges.Reds, Browns, and Oranges.

CHEMICAL ORGANIC CHEMICAL ORGANIC PIGMENTPIGMENT

PhthalocyaninePhthalocyanine pigments: pigments:

This group contains all the This group contains all the Phthalocyanine Blues and Greens, and Phthalocyanine Blues and Greens, and all the Isoindoline-Based Yellows, all the Isoindoline-Based Yellows, Oranges, and Browns.Oranges, and Browns.


QuinacridoneQuinacridone pigments: pigments:

This group contains all the Di-This group contains all the Di-chloro Golds, Magentas, Yellows, chloro Golds, Magentas, Yellows, Violet Blues, and Red/YellowsViolet Blues, and Red/Yellows


Acid and basic dyeAcid and basic dye pigments: pigments:

This group contains Acid Blues, Acid This group contains Acid Blues, Acid Greens, Acid Reds, and Acid Yellows. Greens, Acid Reds, and Acid Yellows.

Triphenyl Methane and Diphenyl Methane Triphenyl Methane and Diphenyl Methane bases are used in basic dye pigments for bases are used in basic dye pigments for violets, magentas, blues, greens, reds. violets, magentas, blues, greens, reds.

These dyes are usually part of a mixture These dyes are usually part of a mixture of coprecipitated dyes.of coprecipitated dyes.

In ConclusionIn Conclusion

There are many different processes that There are many different processes that pigments are derived from which affect the pigments are derived from which affect the healed color of the procedure.healed color of the procedure.

Many common problems associated with Many common problems associated with permanent cosmetics could be avoided if permanent cosmetics could be avoided if technicians would take the time to technicians would take the time to investigate and learn more about the investigate and learn more about the pigments they use.pigments they use.

Ask QuestionsAsk QuestionsInvestigate - AlwaysInvestigate - Always

Documents

From the Dirt to the Skin A Fundamental Presentation A Study of Pigment by Elizabeth Finch-Howell, CPCP Copyright 2008. All rights reserved