Garment Sewing DepartmentBy Sauumye Chauhan, Riya Khandelwal,
Saima Zarin, Sakshi Singh & Saira GalhotraTrafaluc by
ZaraSeasonSpring-Summer 2016Style NameEMMA4-HStyle
Code1919/081BuyerZaraCountrySpainGarmentShort Sleeve TopFront Back
Side FabricCotton with
ElastaneColorsBlackWhiteGreyMeasurementXSSMLXLChest Size
(Cms)80869298104Body Length (Cms)5960.56263.565Order
QuantityColor/SizeXSSMLXLTotalBlack501501505050450White501501505050450Grey2575752525225PackagingDetailsEach
Garment Individually Wrapped in Transparent PacketsNo Of Pieces In
A Carton36
Sewing DepartmentThe heart of a manufacturing unitAfter
receiving the garments components from cutting section, all the
garments parts are joined and sewn sequentially Factors To Be
Considered In Sewing
The Sewing Department At American ApparelPre-Sewing
ProcessBefore the actual task of sewing begins, there are certain
other tasks that have to be taken care of which can be termed as
fabric handling functions.
6
Sewing Process For A T-ShirtA T shirt has six components
FrontBackNeck rib or CollarNeck tape Two sleeves
In the figure, on the top four sections of the garment component
have been shown. The arrows show the flow of operations and inside
the red circles operation sequence number and name of the
operations has been written.
Join RibAttach RibProduction Systems Used In The Sewing
DepartmentGarmentproductionsystem isawayhowfabricisbeingconverted
intogarmentinamanufacturingsystem.Productionsystemsarenamedaccordingtothevariousfactors,likenumber
ofmachineareusedtomakeagarment,machineslayout,totalnumberof
operatorsortailorsinvolvedtosewacompletegarmentandnumberofpieces
movinginalineduringmakingagarment.Asthefashionindustryevolvedand
demandofreadymadegarmentsareincreased,theneedofmassproduction
systemsbecometheessentialwaytomeetthemarketdemand.Simply
becausetailoringshopsarenotableproducethevolumeandsupplyacrossthe
world.
9Make Through Production
SystemItisthetraditionalmethodofmanufacturinginwhichanoperatormakesrightthroughone
garmentatatime.Oneoperatorwilldoallthestagesofthesewingoperationsofone
garmentAftercompletingithewillgoforthenextgarmentAdvantagesQuickthroughputtimeEasiertosuperviseReduceworkinprogress(WIP)Uniformity
in sewing DisadvantagesLowproductivity Highlaborcost
HighlyexperienceoperatorrequiredSuitableforhighlyfashiongarment
andsamplemakingModular Production SystemThe Modular Production
System is expressed with team performance that allows adjustment of
frequent changes in design of clothes, sizes and order of
productionThe modular system works on the principle of pull-type
production systems, in which the job order comes from the last step
to previous steps. The line layout is U -shaped with garments
progressing around the line.Each operator is cross trained on a
different portion of line (i.e. continuous operation) depending on
skills and operation complexity. Each operator is assigned at least
one operation.Operatives work on standing workstations.Work In
Progress (WIP) is kept to a minimum.
Progressive Bundle SystemIn the progressive bundle system (PBS),
the bundles of garment parts are moved sequentially from operation
to
operation.Partsofvariouscomponentsafterbeingcutinthecuttingroomaretiedwithinbundlesand
distributedouttothesewingsection.Bundleticketisattachedtocutparts.Oneoperatoris
expectedtoperformthesameoperationonallthepiecesinthebundle.AdvantagesCheaplaborcost
Increaseproductivity
BetterutilizationofspecializedmachineVerylowvariationinthesewing
Lesschanceforlotmix-upBundletrackingisveryeasyDisadvantagesLinebalancingisdifficultIncreaseinWIPthatincreaseinventorycostSystemisnotadaptableforshortrunproductionandfrequentstylechange
HighlevelofmanagementskillisrequireIndividualoperatorsthatworkinaPBSare
dependenton one anotherUnit Production
SystemEachproductionoperatorhasataskandpassesthatgarmentontothe
nextperson.Normallythereisonlyonegarmentbetweenoperations.Theunitofproductionis
singlegarmentandnotbundlesAdvantagesImproveproductivity
Improveloadtime MinimizesWIP
ImproveproductivityandqualitymonitorImproveergonomics(toprovideeasetoworkingstaff)Keepthefactoryfloorclean
LaborcostreduceDisadvantageHighinitialcostrequired
SpecialtrainingrequiredDowntimeispotentialproblemSewing
MachineAsewing machine is a machine used to stitchfabricand other
materials together withthread.
Sewing machines have been a household staple since American
inventor, Isaac Singer, successfully mass produced a version of the
machine capable of stitching on any area on the fabric.
Sewing machines were invented during the firstIndustrial
Revolution
Types Of Sewing Machine
Throat plateStitch regulatorPresser footTake-up leverReversing
leverNeedleTension discs/check-springNeedle barMachine
bedThread-guidesSewing Machine PartsTypes Of Sewing Machine
BedsFlat Bed Sewing MachineFlat bed machine is used for lock stitch
or chain stitch.It has a large working area so material can easily
pass.Uses
It has widest application in garment sewing in basic type
Raised Bed Sewing MachineFeatures
Raised bed machine also used for lock stitch and chain stitch
formationIt facilities the assembly of pre-sewn.
Uses
It is used for fitting accessories and for button holer
Cylinder Bed MachineFeatures
Cylinder bed sewing machine is used for producing lock and chain
stitch on the fabric.It has increased working height (like an
arm).
UsesIt is used for sewing tubular parts, trouser legs and
sleeves.It is also used for button sewing and bar tacking.
Post Bed Sewing MachineFeatures
Post bed sewing machine is used for forming lock and chain
stitch.It has increased working height.
Uses It is specially used for shoes and bags.
Off-The Arm Sewing MachineFeaturesthese machines require workers
to feed material along the axis of a horizontal columnThe design
limits the length of the seam sewn to the length of the column
UsesIt is useful for applications such as sleeve and shoulder
seams
Defects In Sewing
Irregular StitchNeedle MarkUneven StitchThread Breakage
